Відео

At what point did you decide that the T Stud 2x's were better if the 2x3 became the shape of a flange and spline oriented perpendicular to one another to form an L-shape member? Did this help with the problem of twists?

At what point did you decide that the T Stud 2x's were better if the 2x3 became the shape of a flange and spline oriented perpendicular to one another to form an L-shape member? Did this help with the problem of twists?

Brain, has the quality been improved since this video was made 3 years ago? I am specifying 12 foot tall Non Insulated T-Studs for a new Recreational Garage Build in 2025

Its gotta be more than 58 studs saved.

Would like to see an I-stud. Two flat sides, stronger and even better r value.

At 24” on center, is a thicker sheathing required?

If you replace that 2x3 drywall nailer with a strip of 23/32 Advantec you can screw it in after with a right angle drill and it works great. I use Advantec for all my nailers.

Hello, I would like to discuss with you privately

At timestamp 9:50, treatment of foundation wall top is discussed. But, whatever happened to metal termite shielding?

Zoom out on video.. only see half of the mock-up.. just half of your head too.. bad video and you're trying to promote your products

You are incredibly more expensive.

Thanks for demonstrating. I'd like to use these when I build.

What I do not understand, with wood buildings in the USA, is using isolation that will burn and often produce toxic fumes. When you have concrete or brick double walls, you can have your isolation that burns in the cavity. I also do not understand using isolation and cladding that burns on the outside walls, especially in areas where you can expect a fire danger. I would keep isolation that burns as far away from a wooden house as possible. So why even talk about spray foam.

The header was interesting. Is this a regular product and is there a datasheet for example discussing the allowable width using that header configuration?

😀 😃

I’ve read it’s @ 4-5x the cost of 2x6. At today’s increasingly ridiculous costs of building materials , I can’t see justifying that cost.

How about putting the extra strips on at 45 degrees and picking up an enormous amount of shear strength?

Do you know if anyone's tried building a geodesic dome out of these? Seems like a good combination.

Can you do a video explaining why you have the change to an L shape? I can't help but feel the old design would would be easier to work with but i assume you have a good reason

Hey, do you have a dealer in or near North Wilkesboro, North Carolina?

Why did you change the orientation from parallel to perpendicular? I preferred the larger nailing surface… if it was strength alone, how much stronger is the new style vs the old and do you really need that?

the burn test should be done vertical in a semi-enclosed space, the way the product would be used when built into a house. I have a feeling in a vertical test the results will be different.

How about strength (or failure) testing under fire conditions to compare regular wood studs vs T-Studs, especially load bearing walls/components, at both 16" OC and 24" OC? 2x4 vs 2x6 vs 2x8

Appreciate the discussion about fire blocking and type 1 foam, but have any comparison tests been conducted between regular wood and these T-Studs to evaluate component failure (burn through times) under fire conditions, especially with load-bearing walls?

So does the stated "R" value for the T-Stud consider the wood connecting dowels, which continue carrying the temperature through the wood?

I am really impressed by the T-Stud product. I haven't worked with it but I have a few projects coming up that I'm designing to use T-Stud. I use Rhino and Grasshopper program repetitive calculations for takeoffs. If you want to work together, I can share these scripts so you can make a tool to streamline ordering and budgeting, calculate cost/energy savings vs regular framing. Making this automated calculator program could make you a lot of sales!

👍👍

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

This kind of strength and efficiency makes it a no brainer to use on most builds 👍🏾🇺🇸

Sir I just watched your video and I appreciate your honesty. Keep up the good work.

can you use rip a Tstud for the top and bottom plate and not do the double cuts and longer nails?

As a retired builder I follow new developments in the industry with interest but reserve judgment until the failure rate can be evaluated. The T-Stud looks like a winner!

👍

Hahaha, love the presentation style. God bless!

I assume not but will there be a 2x4 option for say framing out an unfinished basement?

Kick ass book shelf. Great video.

Found you thru Matt Risinger channel. This is an awesome product and I am trying to find a builder to build me a house using ZipR sheathing and T Stud framing. Do you know of any builder in Charlotte NC that is doing this? We are looking to start building in a year probably.

For us visually challenged viewers please do an actual demonstration on how plumbing & electrical is installed (by code), thx 👍

Your innovation will benefit the construction industry for decades. thank you! 👍

How does this system compare to just simply double studding the walls; for example using 2x3 or 2x4 studs staggered on 2x6 top and bottom plates 12" o.c.?

Impressive! 👍

On another video you show starting the first wall with a 2X6 instead of a T-stud. Which is the best way?

In terms of R-values (insulation) of the T-Stud versus double-studs of 2x6, how does this compare?

is the 2x8 version ready? I was wondering if you've done r value calculations with dense pack cellulose or another natural fiber insulation?

Is there an engineering reason you never show the "parallel" tstuds anymore vs. the "right-angle/perpendicular" ones like shown here? I would think the parallel ones would be used in most situations for walls, top/bottom plates, and headers. Are you even selling the parallel ones anymore? One comment I found suggested the right angle ones is because it maintains the same width of the normal wall stud bay for putting in batt insulation.....but that doesn't make sense since bare-naked tstuds are perfect for spray foam.

Building it like this I'm not seeing the issue with attaching that 3rd stud drywall backer there in the corner. You said you wouldn't be able to get a nailer in behind there? Yeah how wouldn't you? Is there some kind-of requirement that says the sheathing has to be preinstalled before that backer?

Have y'all considered reviewing this assembly with experienced modular structural engineers and potentially implement in commercial, volumetric modular construction?

I am really hoping to see this product expand more in the US. I think it's a great concept.

For the builders that are doing the T-Stud for the top and bottom plate, wouldn't it be easier to use the regular insulated T-Stud so there isn't the need to double cut the T-Studs for the vertical members?

I love the concept of the T-Stud. And your shelf is blowing my mind.