If this is the place to say it, I'd be interested in a bronze 17x9 for the NC. Won't be getting new wheels until next year but I really like the Kogeki style but not a huge fan of the gunmetal for my paint color
I have a 2013 NC PRHT. It's just a street car, I don't care for racing. I would like to lower it a bit and widen the wheels/tires (mostly just for appearance). I do drive the Appalachian Mountain roads in a MILDLY spirited manner, but not crazy. I would like to lower the car, maybe run 8" wide in the front and (maybe) 10" on the rear. Is this relatively possible without rolling fenders when you don't drive hard? I'm more of a touring cruiser that just mildly "pushes" it occasionally on half decent roads.
The NC has tons of room under the fenders compared to some of the earlier Miatas, and you should have no issues lowering the car slightly and adding some wider wheels/tires without rubbing or rolling fenders. For more specific recommendations, give us a call. Our customer support team would be happy to give you some suggestions.
Resin cast center caps would handle heat a lot better. I know from my various 3D printed parts that resin 3d printed parts tend to handle heat multiple times better than anything made from ABS or other popular plastics. The resin parts don't melt (they eventually burn but that takes WAY more time). The downside is that will have to be painted/coated to keep UV from degrading them.
I remember seeing somewhere that it is better to do suspension first before wheels if you're going wider. I'm planning on doing 235/40-17 on 17x8s for my NC, which is supposed to fit without modifying the fenders. Is there any truth to being better to do suspension first in this case? I only really wonder, since I will likely be looking to pick up some new rubber sooner than I would be looking to do the suspension (especially if I'm going to be saving some cash for that sweet turbo kit coming along) and it just kind of makes sense to pick up wheels for the new rubber.
If your current suspension doesn't bother you or hold you back, there is obviously no harm in upgrading your wheels and tires before suspension. We just think suspension gives a much bigger performance difference, as a general rule, and suggest people start with sway bars and suspension, but wheels make a huge difference visually, and a good set of lightweight wheels and sticky tires can make for an awesome drive!
I've been looking for a deep bronze wheel to go with my copper red NC. In the video the bronze looks really light almost silverish. On the website the pictures of the bronze color looks darker. Do they really look lighter in person or was that just the way the video captured them?
The bronze wheels in the video were unfortunately pretty dirty. The bronze Kogeki's are definitely a darker bronze, but it's very hard to capture accurately in photos.
If your Miata currently has the stock 205/45/17 tire size, you could likely install 215/45/17 tires without any problems. However, if you're looking to go as wide as 225mm, you'll want to purchase 8" wide wheels.
*Rather than starting from scratch, permit me to suggest finding a pair of OEM Mazda EU-compliant headlamps. With apologies to our UK cousins, they must be for LHD applications. Until relatively recently, most US-spec Miata headlamps used one reflector/one bulb for both high and low beams. Therefore the reflector had to be a compromise to effectively project light for both applications. Because of the speeds encountered and typically zero road illumination outside of urban areas, most EU-spec headlamps have two separate reflectors, each specifically designed for a single illumination purpose. The high only has to do high beam duty and the low, only low. Might be worth a search. Good luck and good hunting. Cheers!*
*Agree. Pity is, the market for Hoosiers or even UHP/MaxHP Summer-only just isn't there. Reality is that OE 16x6.5" is the quintessential drive to Costco on Saturday wheel/tire. Cheers!*
Hi FM, for your reference, the max load of ND 4H100 17x7 stock wheel is 530kg according to JWL/VIA. The 330kg stated on your Tobu wheel webpage is obviously misleading. Regards
We have about 4 sets of OE wheels that show the 330kg rating. However, I'm sure they're from the earlier NDs. What year and trim are you getting your info from? Maybe you're referencing the forged OE wheels? Either way, we'd like to correct the info on our product writeups if it needs it. Thanks for your help on this.
Thank You Brandon for another Great Video!!!!
Thanks, Brandon!
+1 for light silver / titanium/ chrome 15” wheel! Need some to keep the 10AE style intact :)
Has to be for the Legend that is Ron Burgandy
Good guess haha I think your right on the money 👍
Keep an eye out for some Ron Burgundy Miata videos soon! ;)
I'd love to see him fight Ron Swanson
If this is the place to say it, I'd be interested in a bronze 17x9 for the NC.
Won't be getting new wheels until next year but I really like the Kogeki style but not a huge fan of the gunmetal for my paint color
I have a 2013 NC PRHT. It's just a street car, I don't care for racing. I would like to lower it a bit and widen the wheels/tires (mostly just for appearance). I do drive the Appalachian Mountain roads in a MILDLY spirited manner, but not crazy. I would like to lower the car, maybe run 8" wide in the front and (maybe) 10" on the rear. Is this relatively possible without rolling fenders when you don't drive hard? I'm more of a touring cruiser that just mildly "pushes" it occasionally on half decent roads.
The NC has tons of room under the fenders compared to some of the earlier Miatas, and you should have no issues lowering the car slightly and adding some wider wheels/tires without rubbing or rolling fenders. For more specific recommendations, give us a call. Our customer support team would be happy to give you some suggestions.
Resin cast center caps would handle heat a lot better. I know from my various 3D printed parts that resin 3d printed parts tend to handle heat multiple times better than anything made from ABS or other popular plastics. The resin parts don't melt (they eventually burn but that takes WAY more time). The downside is that will have to be painted/coated to keep UV from degrading them.
The satin black 17x9 on Andy (?) is 4x100, but not suggested for NBs?
You could make a 17 work on an NB (we know that was a factory size for Mazdaspeeds), but we usually suggest 17's for NC/ND and 15's for NA/NB.
I remember seeing somewhere that it is better to do suspension first before wheels if you're going wider. I'm planning on doing 235/40-17 on 17x8s for my NC, which is supposed to fit without modifying the fenders. Is there any truth to being better to do suspension first in this case? I only really wonder, since I will likely be looking to pick up some new rubber sooner than I would be looking to do the suspension (especially if I'm going to be saving some cash for that sweet turbo kit coming along) and it just kind of makes sense to pick up wheels for the new rubber.
If your current suspension doesn't bother you or hold you back, there is obviously no harm in upgrading your wheels and tires before suspension. We just think suspension gives a much bigger performance difference, as a general rule, and suggest people start with sway bars and suspension, but wheels make a huge difference visually, and a good set of lightweight wheels and sticky tires can make for an awesome drive!
lol Ron burgundy/ the Anchorman
I'd love to see a 15x6 for all of us SCCA E street drivers.
What all should someone buy for an ND Miata to completely replace stock wheels? Thinking 17x8. Any thoughts? Concerns?
17x8 with a 215/45 tire is probably the most popular replacement choice to give style and grip without losing the nimble feel of the Miata.
I've been looking for a deep bronze wheel to go with my copper red NC. In the video the bronze looks really light almost silverish. On the website the pictures of the bronze color looks darker. Do they really look lighter in person or was that just the way the video captured them?
The bronze wheels in the video were unfortunately pretty dirty. The bronze Kogeki's are definitely a darker bronze, but it's very hard to capture accurately in photos.
I have a 2023 ND 2 GT with stage 2 Konis. I have the stock 17” wheels. How wide a tire can I go with without modifications?
If your Miata currently has the stock 205/45/17 tire size, you could likely install 215/45/17 tires without any problems. However, if you're looking to go as wide as 225mm, you'll want to purchase 8" wide wheels.
Do y’all have any Videos/Information available for Cylinder Head Shaving. Specifically for the 1.6? How far can you reliably go? Na and Boosted
We do not. Give our customer support team a call or email directly. They might be able to help you out.
Kind of off subject comment….. have guys thought of providing a high quality headlight replacement for the nb2? Or other gens….
It would be insanely expensive.
*Rather than starting from scratch, permit me to suggest finding a pair of OEM Mazda EU-compliant headlamps. With apologies to our UK cousins, they must be for LHD applications. Until relatively recently, most US-spec Miata headlamps used one reflector/one bulb for both high and low beams. Therefore the reflector had to be a compromise to effectively project light for both applications. Because of the speeds encountered and typically zero road illumination outside of urban areas, most EU-spec headlamps have two separate reflectors, each specifically designed for a single illumination purpose. The high only has to do high beam duty and the low, only low. Might be worth a search. Good luck and good hunting. Cheers!*
Do you offer 16x7? Just heard your answer. Sorry got ahead if myself. Lol😂
*Agree. Pity is, the market for Hoosiers or even UHP/MaxHP Summer-only just isn't there. Reality is that OE 16x6.5" is the quintessential drive to Costco on Saturday wheel/tire. Cheers!*
I'm Ron Burgundy?
Can they be powder coated without losing integrity
6061 T6 wheels cannot be powder coated without risking some integrity. We recommend paint instead.
@@FlyinMiataVideo *Woah! Seriously vital answer to question I forgot to ask. Thank you!*
Any chance we see low offset wheels on the 15s and 17s for us drift guys? Low being 0 offset in the x8 and x9
Probably not, but if there is enough demand for a product, we would definitely consider it.
The people want a 15x10
Hi FM, for your reference, the max load of ND 4H100 17x7 stock wheel is 530kg according to JWL/VIA. The 330kg stated on your Tobu wheel webpage is obviously misleading. Regards
We have about 4 sets of OE wheels that show the 330kg rating. However, I'm sure they're from the earlier NDs. What year and trim are you getting your info from? Maybe you're referencing the forged OE wheels? Either way, we'd like to correct the info on our product writeups if it needs it. Thanks for your help on this.