I've been doing this for a few years now but theres always something new to learn. I love how it removes rust from within the surface wich leaves a pitted surface on something very old. It's so easy to do, just water wasing soda + voltage. Note I always do it in a ventilated area. I really like your use of a kiddey's pool for the larger jobs. I heard of a bloke who used a DC welder and the swimming pool to clean up a car body... It did such a good job it got rid of the Misses as well! LOL.
I have been doing a lot of research on this process because I want setup a small tank for some parts. Of all the videos I have watched I have to say yours is probably the most informative. You actually got into the chemistry side of it to not only explain how it works, but why. Thank you for that.
Thank you! I saw this process here and decided to give it a try on an OLD leather stitcher, one that was used for saddlers ect... The flywheel wouldn't budge when I found it in the remains of a burned out barn. I used a plastic trash can and 2 old computer power supplies. I let it spin for almost 48 hours. Just peering into the trash can I 'knew' that I had an interesting piece of yard art; BUT, when I pulled it out the wheel turned and after the remainder of the afternoon and a good part of the night not to mention a bloody set of knuckles I now have a usable machine....I just finished stripping it down and I wanted to thank you before I go to town for wax - I want to soak all the pieces in hot paraffin so that it stays usable! So, thanks again and nice to meet you!
Good presentation. You got almost all the terminology correct. The main thing is that you explained clearly how to do it and got the desired results. Proud of you, Georgia Boy.
Keith, we use this process to restore old motorcycle fuel tanks that are rusty inside. We put the anode (a length of steel angle connected to the + lead) inside a length of PVC pipe to prevent shorting, insert the pipe into the tank which is filled with a solution of water and washing soda. The whole tank becomes the cathode and is connected to the (-) lead from the power source. It sometimes takes a couple of weeks putting 25 amps from a battery charger into the solution to come completely clean; the anode is cleaned about once a day. Once the tank is clean, it is drained, flushed and dried. Optionally a sealer is applied but not always. It works great.
I'm a newer subscriber, and I know this video is about 5 years old, but thank you so much. I've been restoring my brakes and grinding rust out of all the nooks and crannies of the caliper castings for days when I saw this. I now have a 25gal tank powered by a 30A 12V power supply with both calipers and brackets suspended from a buss I made that sits across the top and using my old trash rotors as sacrifice material in the bottom. Working like a champ, thank you again.
Thank you for a wonderful presentation on the use of Electrolysis for rust removal. Not only good information, well presented but also with self effacement and humility that is so rare but so endearing. thank you Asress
Hi Keith, since your demonstration I have been cooking parts I bought from a shop. The price was right but most all of them where totally rusted due to a leaky roof where they were stored... Little did I know until using the electrolysis process that the almost unrecognizable small 4 jaw chuck I bought, turned out to be USA made for Southbend. One comment after cooking, I immediately use my pressure washer (1500psi) to blast off the residue. It does a great job and gets into the tight places where brushes may not reach I compressed air dry them and coat with WD-40. When I have time, I plan to take them completely apart and do whatever needed to bring them back in service. Thank you for your hard work at the museum I hope to visit someday. Harvey from Nebraska
Keith, An excellent job on your explanation. One thing that I think you missed is to warn the viewers not to use stainless steel sacrificial anodes, as this would turn your salt water solution into hexavalent chromium. This is a very hazardous material and you can not easily dispose of it safely.
LOL !! SALT SOLUTION ?? WTF !! TRY BORAX. I USE SS ANODE AND CATHODE TO MAKE OXY-HYDROGEN, HHO, AKA... BROWNS GAS. AS FAR AS I KNOW ... IT MAKES PURE WATER AS IT COMBUSTS. I DUNNO WHICH ALLOY YOU USE... !!
Hi Keith, As an amateur machinist and practicing engineer, I have watched most of your videos and greatly enjoy them. Keep up the good work! Regarding this video I felt I had to send you a comment. First, you will have faster results if you use copper wire (steel is not as good a conductor), which will lessen the amount of current being converted into heat. Also, spot or tack weld the end of the copper wire to your electrode to eliminate the contact resistance which also causes more heat. Secondly, regarding the USS Lexington, you might like to know that all ships with metal hulls have sacrificial anodes (called zincs) attached to the hull. As the ship moves through the earth's magnetic field a small current is induced and would eventually dissolve the screws (propellers) and/or rudder. Instead, the zincs erode and must be periodically replaced. Finally, I love it when an engineer such as yourself, takes the theory from physics or chemistry and uses it in a practical way to produce the desired result. Thanks again!
***** Keith, you are absolutely correct. I was specifically targeting the conductance of the wiring. I suggest that you keep the wiring out of the solution as you have done for your anodes in the video. For the cathode, a short stub of rebar tacked onto an edge or the bottom of the machined plate that sticks up out of the solution provides a connection point for the copper wire without tainting the solution. In any event, an excellent video and great example of practical science.
It's "cathode" and "anode," my friend - not cathoid and anoid. :) I'm really enjoying your videos, however. You are a very talented, skilled, and knowledgeable craftsman. Thank you for taking the time to bring these informative programs to us. I am disabled, so you provide me an enjoyable way to work vicariously, through you and your shop adventures.
@@joshprice6954 I had to search what solenoid means. But i do appreciate the value of cultural diversity - local dialects that is. The communists in my country have made dialects go extinct. Thanx for your response.Stay safe.
I've used this process on antique car parts. It works really well to a point. It is helpful with bringing sheet metal back to the point it can be patched. Thanks For Sharing!
Just an afterthought but an important one. Since watching engineering videos on UA-cam I've seen quite a few descriptions of the process you described. Some good, some bad. What I liked about yours was the fulness of it. The description of the chemical process. Most times knowing the HOW is sufficient but when things go wrong, only knowing the WHY will get you through.
Well done, Sir! Good video. I have some rusty machinery I have been procrastinating over... This inspired me to get going on it. Btw, it's not anoid and cathoid, it's anode and cathode. Thanks again! Cheers!
Thanks for this great video. I'm currently using this on my 1937 Studebaker President sedan rebuild. Just in the first few hours I couldn't believe the progress. Much easier than sandblasting and it doesn't damage the machined surfaces or warp the metal .
Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org you didn't show where you connected the negative to the work material, I wondered if you needed to connect that in a certain way that kept the current coming into the piece and not just by passing into the anode? (or cathode, anode was negative right?) or does the current just proliferate through the electrolyte enough that a small amount of anode exposed before the connection doesn't cause issue?
You can also use soda blasting as a non-marring solution to remove oxides from sensitive materials. Automotive restoration shops use it as a way to remove oxide from thin body panels without damaging the metal. Great video BTW.
Keith, first of all thank you for all your good hearted instruction, I enjoy watching and learning. This 58 year old dog can learn new tricks. I have improved this method by using a salvaged pool filter pump, the kids are grown so dad gets to use it.
Thank you for this interesting video. There are a lot of things about electrolysis on the web, but, they are usually about small things and are not always complete! Great information thanks again for posting. Regards, Matthew
Very nice demonstration Keith. I learned quite a bit, and would like to one day try it out for myself. The table top cleaned up great! Thank you for showing is this demonstration.
Nice job Keith! I've used electrolysis on parts before but just in a 5 gallon pail, never thought about using something as big as a pool...until now! ;-) Thanks! Jeff
Hey just dipped myself into Electrolysis. I know the process and all is working good. Its actually my second run. I am removing rust from my bike's tank. The question How can i prevent gas tank from rusting again !!!
It's one thing to show us what to do,,,, But your explanation of How it works,, and what's going on the whole time.,,, Is extraordinary!! (and the added safety tips!) Thank You!!!
This instructional Video could not come at a better time. I recently got back some scaffold I loaned out to a family member that left them outside for two years. These pieces could easily be replaced but why spend money on something so simple to clean? Thank You Mr. Rucker. God Bless you and Your family, Have a Merry Christmas.
Nice video. Thanks for the presentation. I use electrolysis commonly to restore vintage rifles and parts. You don't have to worry about hydrogen build up, simply because it recombines immediately with oxygen. Explosions happen only if hydrogen gets in contact with oxygen in the exact proportion of the H2O equation. This is not happening as the bubbles coming out of the anode and the cathode immediately get together again and don not build up. It's safe. Don't worry.
Thanks Keith. Excellent demo. I have used this to restore old hand planes, chisels, saws, etc. i use a 3 amp DC power supply. Cathodic protection is also used on underground fuel tanks with a sacrificial anode.
Be sure to oil it liberally to prevent surface rust from forming. You may even oil it up & set it out in the hot sun to get oil in the pores of the cast iron to help preserve it.
i use a propane welder to heat up slowly works very well too (you sadly can heap out all machinery out in the sun on your own and tear down my Workshop to expose them to Sun is no option lol )
Watched it again, still stuff to learn. That would be a selling point for older videos, the tools and processes don't change, but when watching again, there are other things you may have missed the first time...
Thank you sir for the most informative video of this process I have seen to date. The time and effort you put into sharing your knowledge is truly appreciated. I was curious if there are any precautions one should take when disposing of the "soup" environmental or otherwise. Also is there a life to the fluid, should you start with new water for each run or can it be used repeatedly? Again thank you so much for sharing.
UA-cam is special...I went from watching videos about the video game Subnautica to ending up here watching a 30 minute video on rust removal. Great video by the way.
Chemistry is fun... For folks looking for "Washing Soda" Your local pool supply places will have it as do most of the box stores. It is cleverly disguised though. Look for PH +, or PH UP. That is Sodium Carbonate. It is used to raise the PH levels in pools. I've bought it in 80 pound bags for 20-30 dollars.
Great video Keith, thanks for sharing. I'm looking to remove surface rust from car brake hubs/rotors and calipers and I didn't want to use acid based liquids as they would also start to degrade the finished surfaces. This looks like it will do a much better job. A lot slower than hydrochloric acid and such but much more controlled and safer. Also using acids has the potential to make these components more brittle and could cause failure into the future. Cheers Andy
Here's a tip, place some course plastic mesh on top of the table, put your electrodes on top. As long as you move the electrodes and mesh around a bit you will get much faster results as the current density will be much higher. I have also used rebar inside some plastic conduit with lots of slots cut into it with an angle grinder, you can take this protected bar and put it inside things or on top or whatever. You do need to seal the electrical connection though ideally so the wire does not rot.
***** Leaving it longer works to a point but if the electrode is close to one part and far away from the other the current can end up so low it barely works even if you leave it for weeks. The paths through the water can be thought of like resistors, long ones have high resistance and short ones low resistance, the current takes the path of least resistance. This is why some people say it is line of sight but of course it is really that the far side is further away. Although we've not seen the finished result I'm sure it's fine but I wonder how much of the rust removal was actually the rubbing with scotchbrite.
***** For the most part, Electrolysis works by line of sight from the closest rusted edge to the anode. Fiberglass window screening is another cheap separator between the rusty part and anodes if you are in a confined tub and are concerned about the two touching.
Really enjoyable video. You've certainly done your research. I think in another life you might have been an excellent teacher. Forgive the trolls, they know not what they do! Thanks for posting Keith. Paul
Really enjoyed this. You have a very relaxing way about you while all the time giving out a good deal of information. I just started using this process a week ago on some woodworking tools purshased on Ebay - table saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer, shaper and drill press. All had little to no use but have a good deal of rust on the machined surfaces. Got my work cut out for me. Subscribed. Thank you!
Thanks for an excellent video Keith. I have used the electrolytic rust removal process countless times but on a smaller scale (5 gallon bucket). A useful tip to remember is that the electrons flow more easily in straight lines i.e., line of sight. It is better to have the piece being cleaned, surrounded by sacrificial electrodes, instead of just 1 on each side. I used to utilize window weights as my sacrificial electrodes. In the case of this large piece, you could have also suspended some pieces of rebar over the top of the saw table as sacrificial electrodes.
I know it's 2 years old... but... "electrons flow more easily in straight lines ie line of sight" WTF? that's the most "curious" think I've heard for a while! Next time there's a storm, watch the lightning!!! There must be an incredible amount of "back pressure" in household wiring because of the non-straight wiring. That electrons flow in a straight line in a crookes tube in no way demonstrates any significant resistance to electrons flowing through wire with curves in it.
I got into the habit of always connecting jumper cables to the dead battery with negative to the engine before I connect the other end to the fresh battery or running car because of the hydrogen gas issue. When people run their batteries down trying to start a car the batter generates a lot of hydrogen and oxygen gas inside it. Also the heated plates in the battery can warp and cause a short. I've seen people blow the hoods off of cars because they connected the jumper to the fresh battery on a running car first then connect the other end to the dead battery where a plate shorted out and a spark ignited the hydrogen and oxygen. This is something which can be fatal.
Keith, thanks for taking time to explain the physics and chemistry in play here as well. I already knew how to do it but didn't know the 1/2 of the bonus material you shared.
Just so you know, there is a common situation where you get hydrogen explosions in electrolytic processes ... if you get any soap solution in the tank, you'll get foam/soap bubbles on the surface. The ones around the cathode have the hydrogen, the ones around the anode the oxygen. If you get a thick layer of bubbles on the surface any tiny spark (eg from the wires connecting the anodes to the charger) will set it off. Very loud bang that leaves your ears ringing and electrolyte everywhere. I had it happen with a "cathodic degreasing tank" running hot caustic soda, which is not what you want flying around the shop ...
I don't think that hydrogen and oxygen will be produced because the the reduction of sodium is easier than splitting the water into 2 hydrogen cations and an oxygen anion. plus, in an open environment, there would never be enough build up of hydrogen to cause even a small flame. Even in a closed environment, with this little amount of electricity, it would maybe produce a liter or two of hydrogen over the couple days it runs. So definitely NOT an issue.... Even if he was using pure water, and not an electrolyte.
You could be right, but, from personal experience, I can tell you it does happen regularly in the plating industry in the "cathodic cleaning" process, where parts are immersed in caustic and stripped of paint/rust/oil etc .. and it is spectacular. I have personally had it happen in a saucepan sized cathodic cleaning tank when doing zinc plating at home too.
Andrew you're way off there. I've personally seen a few explosions from messing around with electrolysis.. We're not talking 'nuclear bomb' it's true... but certainly enough to blow your hat off and more.. You might be an educated chap, I'm not, but I do know that there's nothing hard about splitting water, no matter how much 'easier' it is to reduce sodium... Any build up of hydrogen is something to treat with respect, (especially when 'turbo charged' with the freed oxygen) ..or it absolutely will bite you hard.
This Andrew guy knows nothing. I used to maintain deep charge battery powered janitor equipment used in malls, offices, industrial garages etc. Floor polishers, scrubbers some small & big, to small car size ride-ons. Those things had to be recharged every night. Hydrogen is produced during the recharging process. I constantly told the users to KEEP the batteries container lid OPEN while charging. And always connect the battery end first then the charger ON. In the morning, the opposite, charger OFF first then the batteries connector. "Yeah, yeah, of course". I had at least 6 machines busted, a big one totaled (explosion and fire)because some arss thought the security procedure was dumb. Another one used in a Fine Clothing warehouse. Two big, full racks of Armani suits ruined by the flying acid from 2 busted out of three large batteries. Employee with 2nd degree burns on his dumb face and arms. Huge damage claim from our client. "I didn't know, nobody told me". #@!!&?%%%*** !! So, beware of "oh no, so little hydrogen ain't dangerous!" As always, Better be safe than sorry! Get that Andrew ??
Keith Rucker Thank you for mentioning the USS Lexington CVA16. That was my dad's ship. He was the radar operator. How awesome, I knew they were using electrolysis on it and was thinking of that while you were speaking.
Great method, use it myself. However ALWAYS warn against the use of stainless steel. As well as other exotic steels generally. Some very nasty chromium chemistry happens creating incredibly toxic by products. It may even be illegal to make and/or dump the water after depending on your area. That's how serious the stuff is.
***** Haha absolutely agree. If you can't grab some near useless iron/steel then you probably don't even need an electrolysis tank. Keep up the interesting videos Keith; thanks for putting in all the work it must be! -Will
Hi Keith, just wanted to say I enjoy your videos and think you are very good at figuring out how to get parts to work better than a lot of people I have seen. You do not do things just to get them functional, yoiu take the extra steps to do it right. I have the same mentality, if you do it make it last and look halfway decent. Glad I stumbled on your channel, and hope you continue to post videos for a long time to come. I have learned a lot and hope to learn more.
19th century cast iron maschinery and tools.....gotta love it...... i first caught the bug when i got to sit in an old steam engine (traction engine) hooked up with a big belt pulley to a rock stamper/crusher on the goldfeilds in hill end in outback n.s.w.....i have been in awe ever since......good work saving that planer.
+belson alan How about just "Nice vid thanks for the info" It really sucks when you see someone make an informative video for people just to get nitpicked.
+Andrew Delashaw Love the video. Very informative. Just threw me off when he says anoid and cathoid... i was like wtf... anode cathode! messing with my head...
Keith, great explanation of this process. Many people do not know of this process or realize its value in maintaining surface quality. I do have a suggestion that may help you with larger items like this. There is a tool called an electric burnisher, it is an angle grinder with a 4" roll on it. The rolls are available in the scotch-brite material and work very well for finishing this type of part. Metabo has one as well as other import companies.
Leonard Legg Yes very funny... I thought it was even funnier when he said "electrode" and not "electroide"Maybe it was taught that way to avoid confusion. @ Keith Rucker, Nice video and thank you.
Shawn Hawkins LOL I don't really care one way or the other. I just never heard them pronounced that way. We all know what it means any way it's pronounced. Just funny to hear is all :)
claymantoo Same here I really could care less just caught me by surprise and makes you wonder where it comes from. I'll tell you what eats me though, is people that get in your case about your statement as if they have the right to inform you that you don't have the right to express your opinion.
Great explanation. I've wanted to try electrolysis on some antiques, but I didn't understand the chemistry behind it. I'm glad you included it. Excellent presentation. Thanks!
Keith, great video but my comment is regarding your comment about submarines making their own oxygen. That was what I did. I was a bubblehead in the 1970's. We had a Treadwell 7L16 Oxygen Generator. You were close in your description of how we did it but we didn't take in seawater and get the oxygen out of it, not directly. We used demineralized water, that we made from seawater, otherwise the oxygen generator would completely shutdown from mineral build up. The electrolyte we actually used was Potassium Hydroxide or KoH. We ran a 1000 amps at 50 volts D.C. Anyway, great video. Keep 'em coming.
We did that same experiment. Work fast and get it neutralized and oiled. Zinc billets used to be attached to the ships hull to help protect them from rust. I am looking at a lathe that will need some electrolysis if I buy it. Great video.
Thank You! As a kid, we used dry cleaning bags (super thin plastic) to capture the gas. We had fun with chemistry! Reminds me to check the TIG tank. It is 30 year old Stainless Steel Tank (300 series, not magnetic)... Need to look at the MSDS for the Miller Coolant...
I've seen other vids on this, but as usual yours is much clearer and more thorough explanation. Your talk about the machined surface has made me think. What I would really like to see is you hand scraping a surface to truth.
Thank you for a very succinct well spoken presentation. Very interesting extra information regarding preservation of battleships etc too. I hope to use what you've taught me on some parts i have. Greetings from the UK
I have used this process for years restoring antique engines and have experimented with different sacrificial anode materials from rebar to lawn mower blades. The best i have found to date is graphite. I got free scraps from a machine shop that makes electrodes for EDM machines. The graphite really conducts well and doesn't need to be cleaned during the process. It eventually erodes but it lasts a long time. I cut larger chunks into the right size with a simple handsaw.
thanks again Keith, the kiddie pool idea is beautiful, as i am about to bring a number 3 milwaukee mill home ive been fumbling around to figure out a container large enough to do an electrolysis bath with it, and the kiddie pool will work out great for everything but the main body vertical ways. thanks again for taking the time to preserve and pass along your knowledge. DJ
Thanks, Keith! Mr. Pete222 did some videos on electrolysis a while back. It's an interesting process. It looks like you have that saw table looking like new in no time. Thanks again! Regards, Dave
Hi Keith, Very good video, lower current will produce finer surface cause then you end up with smaller crystals, takes longer but who cares, the thing been in storage for so long, a few days more won't change much. With very pitted mild steel the result isn't so good, too much of the original metal is gone missing, cant replace it all in a uniform surface. Thanks, Pierre
I've done this on a number of parts, the biggest being the blade of a press brake. I just used coarse salt and did it outside. It's easy and works well.
Great stuff Keith - thanks for the lesson...will try this on an old jointer I've got. I was wondering how I'd restore and I think you've shown me the way.
Great video! Another big disadvantage of using regular table salt is that some of the chlorine will remain dissolved in the water and will react with the item you are trying to clean.
Hello Keith. I would like to apologize for the flame war over the anode and cathode comment. Didn't mean to be so derogatory, I did appreciate your video, and did find it professionally done and lots of good information. I am also of primarily Welsh decent. Last name Legg. Keep up the good work Sir.
A really nice video. You seem to be on top of the game on all of the restoration projects. The museum is lucky to have you helping them. Thanks for sharing.
There are several ways to accomplish the same thing but if you have a paint mixer for a hand drill it works really well for mixing the laundry booster in the tank. Just pour it slowly while the mixer run at about half speed. I clean vintage cookware with electrolysis and it is amazing what it can do.
Great explanation, Keith. One question, does the amperage drop as the rust is removed from the piece? If so, it seems that this would be a way of determining when the maximum amount of rust has been removed. Or, on the other hand, it might only signal when the electrolyte has been depleted. Just curious.
Very informative video thank you for sharing! What do plan to use to protect the finished surface? My Father told me to rub a good coat of wax on his table saw then with the edge a straight wooden stick (1x2), scrape the extra off, and it gave a nice slippery work surface too. however, the wax does rub into wood surfaces as you use it, requiring a bit more sanding for your project before staining or painting. I have found that Turtle Wax, or non silicone car wax does work better. I'm sure there are other products that will work better these days. thanks for sharing, Dennis
I've been doing this for a few years now but theres always something new to learn. I love how it removes rust from within the surface wich leaves a pitted surface on something very old. It's so easy to do, just water wasing soda + voltage. Note I always do it in a ventilated area. I really like your use of a kiddey's pool for the larger jobs.
I heard of a bloke who used a DC welder and the swimming pool to clean up a car body... It did such a good job it got rid of the Misses as well! LOL.
I have been doing a lot of research on this process because I want setup a small tank for some parts. Of all the videos I have watched I have to say yours is probably the most informative. You actually got into the chemistry side of it to not only explain how it works, but why. Thank you for that.
Thank you!
I saw this process here and decided to give it a try on an OLD leather stitcher, one that was used for saddlers ect... The flywheel wouldn't budge when I found it in the remains of a burned out barn. I used a plastic trash can and 2 old computer power supplies. I let it spin for almost 48 hours. Just peering into the trash can I 'knew' that I had an interesting piece of yard art; BUT, when I pulled it out the wheel turned and after the remainder of the afternoon and a good part of the night not to mention a bloody set of knuckles I now have a usable machine....I just finished stripping it down and I wanted to thank you before I go to town for wax - I want to soak all the pieces in hot paraffin so that it stays usable!
So, thanks again and nice to meet you!
Good presentation. You got almost all the terminology correct. The main thing is that you explained clearly how to do it and got the desired results. Proud of you, Georgia Boy.
Keith, we use this process to restore old motorcycle fuel tanks that are rusty inside. We put the anode (a length of steel angle connected to the + lead) inside a length of PVC pipe to prevent shorting, insert the pipe into the tank which is filled with a solution of water and washing soda. The whole tank becomes the cathode and is connected to the (-) lead from the power source. It sometimes takes a couple of weeks putting 25 amps from a battery charger into the solution to come completely clean; the anode is cleaned about once a day. Once the tank is clean, it is drained, flushed and dried. Optionally a sealer is applied but not always. It works great.
25 amps over a couple weeks? Sounds like this takes a lot of electrical energy...
What type of sealer do you use?
@@MikeSmith-vb8ul It can but it has practical applications on complicated parts or items which are difficult to replace.
@@CharlesLeo I have not found a great sealer for the inside of the tanks. There are several on the market.
@@shannonstebbens6992 I should have clarified that I was wondering in general for exterior use.
I'm a newer subscriber, and I know this video is about 5 years old, but thank you so much. I've been restoring my brakes and grinding rust out of all the nooks and crannies of the caliper castings for days when I saw this. I now have a 25gal tank powered by a 30A 12V power supply with both calipers and brackets suspended from a buss I made that sits across the top and using my old trash rotors as sacrifice material in the bottom. Working like a champ, thank you again.
Thank you for a wonderful presentation on the use of Electrolysis for rust removal. Not only good information, well presented but also with self effacement and humility that is so rare but so endearing. thank you Asress
Completely agree. I loved this video.
Hi Keith, since your demonstration I have been cooking parts I bought from a shop. The price was right but most all of them where totally rusted due to a leaky roof where they were stored... Little did I know until using the electrolysis process that the almost unrecognizable small 4 jaw chuck I bought, turned out to be USA made for Southbend. One comment after cooking, I immediately use my pressure washer (1500psi) to blast off the residue. It does a great job and gets into the tight places where brushes may not reach I compressed air dry them and coat with WD-40. When I have time, I plan to take them completely apart and do whatever needed to bring them back in service.
Thank you for your hard work at the museum I hope to visit someday. Harvey from Nebraska
Nicely done Sir👍👍
Keith, An excellent job on your explanation. One thing that I think you missed is to warn the viewers not to use stainless steel sacrificial anodes, as this would turn your salt water solution into hexavalent chromium. This is a very hazardous material and you can not easily dispose of it safely.
No stay away from that shit.. you're right there. Erin Brockovich will be all over your case if you start with that stuff :-)
Does it matter if the piece that you are cleaning has some stainless steel on it ?
Oof! Thanks! Close call x)
I suppose a chrome-plated part might also do that?
LOL !! SALT SOLUTION ??
WTF !! TRY BORAX.
I USE SS ANODE AND CATHODE TO MAKE OXY-HYDROGEN, HHO, AKA... BROWNS GAS.
AS FAR AS I KNOW ... IT MAKES PURE WATER AS IT COMBUSTS.
I DUNNO WHICH ALLOY YOU USE... !!
Hi Keith, As an amateur machinist and practicing engineer, I have watched most of your videos and greatly enjoy them. Keep up the good work!
Regarding this video I felt I had to send you a comment. First, you will have faster results if you use copper wire (steel is not as good a conductor), which will lessen the amount of current being converted into heat. Also, spot or tack weld the end of the copper wire to your electrode to eliminate the contact resistance which also causes more heat. Secondly, regarding the USS Lexington, you might like to know that all ships with metal hulls have sacrificial anodes (called zincs) attached to the hull. As the ship moves through the earth's magnetic field a small current is induced and would eventually dissolve the screws (propellers) and/or rudder. Instead, the zincs erode and must be periodically replaced.
Finally, I love it when an engineer such as yourself, takes the theory from physics or chemistry and uses it in a practical way to produce the desired result. Thanks again!
***** Keith, you are absolutely correct. I was specifically targeting the conductance of the wiring. I suggest that you keep the wiring out of the solution as you have done for your anodes in the video. For the cathode, a short stub of rebar tacked onto an edge or the bottom of the machined plate that sticks up out of the solution provides a connection point for the copper wire without tainting the solution. In any event, an excellent video and great example of practical science.
It's "cathode" and "anode," my friend - not cathoid and anoid. :)
I'm really enjoying your videos, however. You are a very talented, skilled, and knowledgeable craftsman. Thank you for taking the time to bring these informative programs to us. I am disabled, so you provide me an enjoyable way to work vicariously, through you and your shop adventures.
You seem to have a problem with his dialect, my dear.
George Gordon brown I live in nc and I say cathode and anode but I do say silenoid instead of solenoid .
@@joshprice6954 I had to search what solenoid means. But i do appreciate the value of cultural diversity - local dialects that is. The communists in my country have made dialects go extinct. Thanx for your response.Stay safe.
Cultural Diversity and "Dialect are stupid jokes and have nothing to do with pronouncing words properly.
You are right it is anode and cathode. Also check the galvanic table. You need to use an anode lower on the galvanic table that the cathode.
I've used this process on antique car parts. It works really well to a point. It is helpful with bringing sheet metal back to the point it can be patched. Thanks For Sharing!
+badazrod I agree - it is good to a point. Not the only trick in my hat but it sure does have its place!
Just an afterthought but an important one. Since watching engineering videos on UA-cam I've seen quite a few descriptions of the process you described. Some good, some bad. What I liked about yours was the fulness of it. The description of the chemical process. Most times knowing the HOW is sufficient but when things go wrong, only knowing the WHY will get you through.
Thanks much, Keith, been watching a whole bunch of videos about this before I try it. Very informative, and the results look great.
Well done, Sir! Good video. I have some rusty machinery I have been procrastinating over... This inspired me to get going on it. Btw, it's not anoid and cathoid, it's anode and cathode. Thanks again! Cheers!
Thanks for this great video. I'm currently using this on my 1937 Studebaker President sedan rebuild. Just in the first few hours I couldn't believe the progress. Much easier than sandblasting and it doesn't damage the machined surfaces or warp the metal .
+tenaxxband Glad to hear it is working for you. It has its place for sure!
Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org you didn't show where you connected the negative to the work material, I wondered if you needed to connect that in a certain way that kept the current coming into the piece and not just by passing into the anode? (or cathode, anode was negative right?) or does the current just proliferate through the electrolyte enough that a small amount of anode exposed before the connection doesn't cause issue?
You can also use soda blasting as a non-marring solution to remove oxides from sensitive materials. Automotive restoration shops use it as a way to remove oxide from thin body panels without damaging the metal. Great video BTW.
Keith, first of all thank you for all your good hearted instruction, I enjoy watching and learning. This 58 year old dog can learn new tricks. I have improved this method by using a salvaged pool filter pump, the kids are grown so dad gets to use it.
Thank you for this interesting video. There are a lot of things about electrolysis on the web, but, they are usually about small things and are not always complete! Great information thanks again for posting. Regards, Matthew
Yup, he helped me do a giant stew pot!
ua-cam.com/video/QyS85AWnWL4/v-deo.html
Very nice demonstration Keith. I learned quite a bit, and would like to one day try it out for myself. The table top cleaned up great!
Thank you for showing is this demonstration.
I think ***** and oxtoolco should go halves in an apron for Abom79.
Nice job Keith!
I've used electrolysis on parts before but just in a 5 gallon pail, never thought about using something as big as a pool...until now! ;-)
Thanks!
Jeff
Very well spoken,Thank-You.
Abom79 You will have to compare this process to the stuff that you use. (name slips my mind right now)
Hey just dipped myself into Electrolysis. I know the process and all is working good. Its actually my second run. I am removing rust from my bike's tank. The question
How can i prevent gas tank from rusting again !!!
It's one thing to show us what to do,,,, But your explanation of How it works,, and what's going on the whole time.,,, Is extraordinary!! (and the added safety tips!) Thank You!!!
Excellent video, Kieth. I especially enjoyed hearing about the background of the process and its other applications.
+Jordan Smith Thanks Jordan!
This instructional Video could not come at a better time. I recently got back some scaffold I loaned out to a family member that left them outside for two years. These pieces could easily be replaced but why spend money on something so simple to clean? Thank You Mr. Rucker. God Bless you and Your family, Have a Merry Christmas.
I watched every minute here, You my friend are so very smart & such a wonderful teacher. Thanks ......Edit I subscribed
+Mike's DIY Projects & More Thanks for the note and thanks even more for the subscription! I hope that you enjoy my channel!
Keith - thank you for this video - I followed your steps and my old cast iron caldron and griddle were de-rusted like magic.
Nice video. Thanks for the presentation. I use electrolysis commonly to restore vintage rifles and parts.
You don't have to worry about hydrogen build up, simply because it recombines immediately with oxygen. Explosions happen only if hydrogen gets in contact with oxygen in the exact proportion of the H2O equation. This is not happening as the bubbles coming out of the anode and the cathode immediately get together again and don not build up. It's safe. Don't worry.
Thanks Keith. Excellent demo. I have used this to restore old hand planes, chisels, saws, etc. i use a 3 amp DC power supply. Cathodic protection is also used on underground fuel tanks with a sacrificial anode.
Be sure to oil it liberally to prevent surface rust from forming. You may even oil it up & set it out in the hot sun to get oil in the pores of the cast iron to help preserve it.
i use a propane welder to heat up slowly works very well too (you sadly can heap out all machinery out in the sun on your own and tear down my Workshop to expose them to Sun is no option lol )
Watched it again, still stuff to learn. That would be a selling point for older videos, the tools and processes don't change, but when watching again, there are other things you may have missed the first time...
This is so awesome. Thank you Keith. This has got to be the best explanation of Electrolysis on the net.
You Tube at it's best :)
+doyleaudio Thank you!
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org porque tardas tanto es aburrido,
@@DANIELELECTRICOAUTOMOTRIZ ...well, "ya can't please EVERYBODY!!!!"
Thanks to Vintage Machinery you helped me find info on a 1935 GE Workshop lathe I am restoring.
Thank you sir for the most informative video of this process I have seen to date. The time and effort you put into sharing your knowledge is truly appreciated. I was curious if there are any precautions one should take when disposing of the "soup" environmental or otherwise. Also is there a life to the fluid, should you start with new water for each run or can it be used repeatedly? Again thank you so much for sharing.
UA-cam is special...I went from watching videos about the video game Subnautica to ending up here watching a 30 minute video on rust removal. Great video by the way.
It's true that this subject has been done to death, but you had some information to add even so. Great video!
Concise detailed educated eloquent explanation.
Thank you sir.
Chemistry is fun...
For folks looking for "Washing Soda" Your local pool supply places will have it as do most of the box stores. It is cleverly disguised though. Look for PH +, or PH UP. That is Sodium Carbonate. It is used to raise the PH levels in pools. I've bought it in 80 pound bags for 20-30 dollars.
Blazer02LS
washing soda AKA. BORAX
Borax is sodium borate. Not the same as sodium carbonate. It will work but they are different chemicals
Great video Keith, thanks for sharing. I'm looking to remove surface rust from car brake hubs/rotors and calipers and I didn't want to use acid based liquids as they would also start to degrade the finished surfaces. This looks like it will do a much better job. A lot slower than hydrochloric acid and such but much more controlled and safer. Also using acids has the potential to make these components more brittle and could cause failure into the future. Cheers Andy
Here's a tip, place some course plastic mesh on top of the table, put your electrodes on top. As long as you move the electrodes and mesh around a bit you will get much faster results as the current density will be much higher. I have also used rebar inside some plastic conduit with lots of slots cut into it with an angle grinder, you can take this protected bar and put it inside things or on top or whatever. You do need to seal the electrical connection though ideally so the wire does not rot.
***** Leaving it longer works to a point but if the electrode is close to one part and far away from the other the current can end up so low it barely works even if you leave it for weeks. The paths through the water can be thought of like resistors, long ones have high resistance and short ones low resistance, the current takes the path of least resistance. This is why some people say it is line of sight but of course it is really that the far side is further away. Although we've not seen the finished result I'm sure it's fine but I wonder how much of the rust removal was actually the rubbing with scotchbrite.
***** For the most part, Electrolysis works by line of sight from the closest rusted edge to the anode. Fiberglass window screening is another cheap separator between the rusty part and anodes if you are in a confined tub and are concerned about the two touching.
***** to
Thanks for the video Keith. That's some hunk of metal. Like what you do restoring old machinery. Our world has become so disposable.
Thanks Dana!
For UK viewers washing soda is called soda crystals and is available at Asda for a quid per kilo bag.
Kevin Smith how about Tesco, Sainsbury's, Safeway, Co-op, Spa or Morrisons?
Would Daz be okay?
Could tide pods work?
To answer my own question, it does. I've tried it on a diesel tank. Perfect result.
Sodium Carbonate, in any English-speaking country.
Thank you for such an academic approach to a practical application. It is important to why as well as how. Mike Montgomery
Really enjoyable video. You've certainly done your research. I think in another life you might have been an excellent teacher. Forgive the trolls, they know not what they do!
Thanks for posting Keith. Paul
+TheRunereaper Thanks Paul - I have always enjoyed teaching, as long as it is in an informal setting and not a classroom with tests....
He IS an excellent teacher.
Really enjoyed this. You have a very relaxing way about you while all the time giving out a good deal of information. I just started using this process a week ago on some woodworking tools purshased on Ebay - table saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer, shaper and drill press. All had little to no use but have a good deal of rust on the machined surfaces. Got my work cut out for me. Subscribed. Thank you!
someone got his facts in order so compliments are in order! :-) thanks, great video!
Frank-Michael Krause Thanks!
I like your way of explaining things. This video is proof of that again. Thumbs up. Greetings from Germany from Peter. Keep it up Keith.
Outstanding video and information!
Thank you!
Thanks for an excellent video Keith. I have used the electrolytic rust removal process countless times but on a smaller scale (5 gallon bucket). A useful tip to remember is that the electrons flow more easily in straight lines i.e., line of sight. It is better to have the piece being cleaned, surrounded by sacrificial electrodes, instead of just 1 on each side. I used to utilize window weights as my sacrificial electrodes. In the case of this large piece, you could have also suspended some pieces of rebar over the top of the saw table as sacrificial electrodes.
I know it's 2 years old... but... "electrons flow more easily in straight lines ie line of sight"
WTF? that's the most "curious" think I've heard for a while!
Next time there's a storm, watch the lightning!!! There must be an incredible amount of "back pressure" in household wiring because of the non-straight wiring. That electrons flow in a straight line in a crookes tube in no way demonstrates any significant resistance to electrons flowing through wire with curves in it.
I got into the habit of always connecting jumper cables to the dead battery with negative to the engine before I connect the other end to the fresh battery or running car because of the hydrogen gas issue. When people run their batteries down trying to start a car the batter generates a lot of hydrogen and oxygen gas inside it. Also the heated plates in the battery can warp and cause a short. I've seen people blow the hoods off of cars because they connected the jumper to the fresh battery on a running car first then connect the other end to the dead battery where a plate shorted out and a spark ignited the hydrogen and oxygen. This is something which can be fatal.
Keith, thanks for taking time to explain the physics and chemistry in play here as well. I already knew how to do it but didn't know the 1/2 of the bonus material you shared.
Just so you know, there is a common situation where you get hydrogen explosions in electrolytic processes ... if you get any soap solution in the tank, you'll get foam/soap bubbles on the surface. The ones around the cathode have the hydrogen, the ones around the anode the oxygen. If you get a thick layer of bubbles on the surface any tiny spark (eg from the wires connecting the anodes to the charger) will set it off. Very loud bang that leaves your ears ringing and electrolyte everywhere. I had it happen with a "cathodic degreasing tank" running hot caustic soda, which is not what you want flying around the shop ...
I don't think that hydrogen and oxygen will be produced because the the reduction of sodium is easier than splitting the water into 2 hydrogen cations and an oxygen anion. plus, in an open environment, there would never be enough build up of hydrogen to cause even a small flame. Even in a closed environment, with this little amount of electricity, it would maybe produce a liter or two of hydrogen over the couple days it runs. So definitely NOT an issue.... Even if he was using pure water, and not an electrolyte.
You could be right, but, from personal experience, I can tell you it does happen regularly in the plating industry in the "cathodic cleaning" process, where parts are immersed in caustic and stripped of paint/rust/oil etc .. and it is spectacular. I have personally had it happen in a saucepan sized cathodic cleaning tank when doing zinc plating at home too.
Andrew, you are wrong. Na will NEVER be formed in protic solvents it would react vigorously and hydrogen
Andrew you're way off there. I've personally seen a few explosions from messing around with electrolysis.. We're not talking 'nuclear bomb' it's true... but certainly enough to blow your hat off and more.. You might be an educated chap, I'm not, but I do know that there's nothing hard about splitting water, no matter how much 'easier' it is to reduce sodium... Any build up of hydrogen is something to treat with respect, (especially when 'turbo charged' with the freed oxygen) ..or it absolutely will bite you hard.
This Andrew guy knows nothing.
I used to maintain deep charge battery powered janitor equipment used in malls, offices, industrial garages etc. Floor polishers, scrubbers some small & big, to small car size ride-ons. Those things had to be recharged every night. Hydrogen is produced during the recharging process. I constantly told the users to KEEP the batteries container lid OPEN while charging. And always connect the battery end first then the charger ON. In the morning, the opposite, charger OFF first then the batteries connector.
"Yeah, yeah, of course". I had at least 6 machines busted, a big one totaled (explosion and fire)because some arss thought the security procedure was dumb. Another one used in a Fine Clothing warehouse. Two big, full racks of Armani suits ruined by the flying acid from 2 busted out of three large batteries. Employee with 2nd degree burns on his dumb face and arms. Huge damage claim from our client. "I didn't know, nobody told me". #@!!&?%%%*** !! So, beware of "oh no, so little hydrogen ain't dangerous!"
As always, Better be safe than sorry! Get that Andrew ??
Keith Rucker Thank you for mentioning the USS Lexington CVA16. That was my dad's ship. He was the radar operator. How awesome, I knew they were using electrolysis on it and was thinking of that while you were speaking.
Great method, use it myself. However ALWAYS warn against the use of stainless steel. As well as other exotic steels generally.
Some very nasty chromium chemistry happens creating incredibly toxic by products. It may even be illegal to make and/or dump the water after depending on your area. That's how serious the stuff is.
*****
Haha absolutely agree. If you can't grab some near useless iron/steel then you probably don't even need an electrolysis tank.
Keep up the interesting videos Keith; thanks for putting in all the work it must be!
-Will
Hi Keith, just wanted to say I enjoy your videos and think you are very good at figuring out how to get parts to work better than a lot of people I have seen. You do not do things just to get them functional, yoiu take the extra steps to do it right. I have the same mentality, if you do it make it last and look halfway decent. Glad I stumbled on your channel, and hope you continue to post videos for a long time to come. I have learned a lot and hope to learn more.
Thanks Dean!
11:50 where the actual process starts
Keith does not think about condensing his videos.
19th century cast iron maschinery and tools.....gotta love it...... i first caught the bug when i got to sit in an old steam engine (traction engine) hooked up with a big belt pulley to a rock stamper/crusher on the goldfeilds in hill end in outback n.s.w.....i have been in awe ever since......good work saving that planer.
This guy could talk the back legs off a wooden donkey!
+belson alan How about just "Nice vid thanks for the info"
It really sucks when you see someone make an informative video for people just to get nitpicked.
+Cody Bennett LOL. Well is long.
+Cody Bennett dis nigga make long ass vidyo boi
that is funniest thing you could have said, that guy is interesting though.
If he is not interested , what is he doing here ? As you say a nitpicker !
Very well presented and very informative could have listened to you all night. many thanks Keith
+william hall Thanks William!
BTW, they're anodes not anoides. It doesn't rhyme with androids..
Kieth i have done the experiment in year. This is such a straight forward recap on the subject. So visual and thank you.
Im anoide at the pronunciation :D
that was good. I can't believe no one else commented at how funny that was. or maybe we were the only ones that thought it was.
+Andrew Delashaw Love the video. Very informative. Just threw me off when he says anoid and cathoid... i was like wtf... anode cathode! messing with my head...
I went to the Doctors the other day with a pain in my arse. He said I've got Hemorrodes!
.....lol
You say tomato, I say onion.
Keith, great explanation of this process. Many people do not know of this process or realize its value in maintaining surface quality. I do have a suggestion that may help you with larger items like this. There is a tool called an electric burnisher, it is an angle grinder with a 4" roll on it. The rolls are available in the scotch-brite material and work very well for finishing this type of part. Metabo has one as well as other import companies.
not anoide or cathoide it is anode or cathode
Leonard Legg Yes very funny... I thought it was even funnier when he said "electrode" and not "electroide"Maybe it was taught that way to avoid confusion.
@ Keith Rucker, Nice video and thank you.
Leonard Legg what the hell, we knew what he meant, & it brought it to Life.
thank you Mr. Rucker
Shawn Hawkins The right school;)
Shawn Hawkins LOL I don't really care one way or the other. I just never heard them pronounced that way.
We all know what it means any way it's pronounced. Just funny to hear is all :)
claymantoo Same here I really could care less just caught me by surprise and makes
you wonder where it comes from.
I'll tell you what eats me though, is people that get in your case about
your statement as if they have the right to inform you that you don't
have the right to express your opinion.
Great explanation. I've wanted to try electrolysis on some antiques, but I didn't understand the chemistry behind it. I'm glad you included it. Excellent presentation. Thanks!
Anode not anoid, Cathode not cathoid.
Keith, great video but my comment is regarding your comment about submarines making their own oxygen. That was what I did. I was a bubblehead in the 1970's. We had a Treadwell 7L16 Oxygen Generator. You were close in your description of how we did it but we didn't take in seawater and get the oxygen out of it, not directly. We used demineralized water, that we made from seawater, otherwise the oxygen generator would completely shutdown from mineral build up. The electrolyte we actually used was Potassium Hydroxide or KoH. We ran a 1000 amps at 50 volts D.C.
Anyway, great video. Keep 'em coming.
+macbirt56 Very cool!
I know yaaal got funny accents down there, but anode and cathode have a long O sound, like ode, not roid like steroid.
Avoid the Noid kept coming to mind lol. Good vid though! :)
***** yall are funny thanks from hear in Tenn. HE HE
***** You know it is easy to spot accents of people from other places because in Texas we don't have accents and all them furriners and Yankees do.
I was gonna say,
Anoid is what you get when you break one of those infernal #6 UNC taps off in your nearly finished piece. :D
*****
He pronounced my Dutch last name perfectly on one of his recent videos, and I find his voice rather smooth, like a late night disc jockey. :)
We did that same experiment. Work fast and get it neutralized and oiled. Zinc billets used to be attached to the ships hull to help protect them from rust. I am looking at a lathe that will need some electrolysis if I buy it. Great video.
It's cathode and anode, not cathoid and anoid :o)
+John Arne Nergård
It's like they took the _i_ out of aluminium and stuck it in cathoid and anoid
+John Arne Nergård I think it's "catheter" and "anal"
Hehe... Well... I know it's anal to point out spellies at least, but I couldn't help my self! :o)
John Arne Nergård
LOL it was just a bad joke :P
That was fascinating about using the ocean as the solutuion to clean up the WWII ship hull. Thanks for the tidbits on history when you include those.
Annoyed and thoide" ANODE and CATHODE
Martin Borman annoyed that you had to be the 40th jackass to comment this
Thank You! As a kid, we used dry cleaning bags (super thin plastic) to capture the gas. We had fun with chemistry!
Reminds me to check the TIG tank. It is 30 year old Stainless Steel Tank (300 series, not magnetic)... Need to look at the MSDS for the Miller Coolant...
way too much talk
Then go somewhere else for your instant-gratification needs, Derp.
Hi
AceTankerPaul Bye
stay
you wish
I've seen other vids on this, but as usual yours is much clearer and more thorough explanation.
Your talk about the machined surface has made me think. What I would really like to see is you hand scraping a surface to truth.
Brilliant presentation thank-you very much - will now become a common process in my workshop. Peter, New Zealand
Great use of a kid pool. Been looking at ways to clean drill pipe before welding. Thanks for the idea.
Thank you for a very succinct well spoken presentation. Very interesting extra information regarding preservation of battleships etc too. I hope to use what you've taught me on some parts i have. Greetings from the UK
Very detailed and it was explained very clearly and coherently. Well done.
I have some parts cooking as I watched this - highly recommended! Good demo!
I have used this process for years restoring antique engines and have experimented with different sacrificial anode materials from rebar to lawn mower blades. The best i have found to date is graphite. I got free scraps from a machine shop that makes electrodes for EDM machines. The graphite really conducts well and doesn't need to be cleaned during the process. It eventually erodes but it lasts a long time. I cut larger chunks into the right size with a simple handsaw.
thanks again Keith, the kiddie pool idea is beautiful, as i am about to bring a number 3 milwaukee mill home ive been fumbling around to figure out a container large enough to do an electrolysis bath with it, and the kiddie pool will work out great for everything but the main body vertical ways.
thanks again for taking the time to preserve and pass along your knowledge.
DJ
Thanks, Keith! Mr. Pete222 did some videos on electrolysis a while back. It's an interesting process. It looks like you have that saw table looking like new in no time. Thanks again!
Regards,
Dave
I’ve also used distilled water which is quite cheap... great lesson! This is something we all can use!
Thanks for the great video 👍 From what I understand you are correct regarding electrolysis for generating oxygen on submarines.
Another super video Keith. I've done a motorcycle tank myself and have never seen it on this scale!!
This is a phenomenal video Keith, extremely detailed and descriptive. I'm grateful to have come away learning a lot about Electrolysis.
+Kyle Ackrill Thank you! I hope that you found it useful!
Hi Keith,
Very good video, lower current will produce finer surface cause then you end up with smaller crystals, takes longer but who cares, the thing been in storage for so long, a few days more won't change much.
With very pitted mild steel the result isn't so good, too much of the original metal is gone missing, cant replace it all in a uniform surface.
Thanks,
Pierre
I've done this on a number of parts, the biggest being the blade of a press brake. I just used coarse salt and did it outside. It's easy and works well.
Great stuff Keith - thanks for the lesson...will try this on an old jointer I've got. I was wondering how I'd restore and I think you've shown me the way.
Great video! Another big disadvantage of using regular table salt is that some of the chlorine will remain dissolved in the water and will react with the item you are trying to clean.
That was a very enjoyable viewing experience. Thanks.
Very nice demonstration Keith.
Hello Keith. I would like to apologize for the flame war over the anode and cathode comment. Didn't mean to be so derogatory, I did appreciate your video, and did find it professionally done and lots of good information.
I am also of primarily Welsh decent. Last name Legg. Keep up the good work Sir.
A really nice video. You seem to be on top of the game on all of the restoration projects. The museum is lucky to have you helping them. Thanks for sharing.
There are several ways to accomplish the same thing but if you have a paint mixer for a hand drill it works really well for mixing the laundry booster in the tank. Just pour it slowly while the mixer run at about half speed. I clean vintage cookware with electrolysis and it is amazing what it can do.
If I only had the knowledge, time, machinery and projects like Keith, I would be perfectly happy...
Zieketuute My limiting factors are time and money.... I need a lot more of both!
Excellent video. You are such a good teacher.
I like that you took the time to get the chemistry right. That's proper educational content, props
Great explanation, Keith. One question, does the amperage drop as the rust is removed from the piece? If so, it seems that this would be a way of determining when the maximum amount of rust has been removed. Or, on the other hand, it might only signal when the electrolyte has been depleted. Just curious.
Very informative video thank you for sharing! What do plan to use to protect the finished surface? My Father told me to rub a good coat of wax on his table saw then with the edge a straight wooden stick (1x2), scrape the extra off, and it gave a nice slippery work surface too. however, the wax does rub into wood surfaces as you use it, requiring a bit more sanding for your project before staining or painting.
I have found that Turtle Wax, or non silicone car wax does work better. I'm sure there are other products that will work better these days.
thanks for sharing,
Dennis
***** I use bowling alley floor wax on my planer and jointer. It seems to hold up the best and makes the surfaces nice and slick too!