7.3 Powerstroke Diesel Dipstick Repair with Strictly Diesel Dipstick Repair Adapter Kit
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- It is time for more work truck maintenance. It seems the previous repair I made to the dipstick has failed, and we need to try again. Follow along to see how I repair it tis time.
The featured product in this video is the Strictly Diesel Dipstick Adapter Repair Kit that I use to repair the 7.3 Powerstroke in this video. It is a well made piece, easy to install, and it solves a common problem with these engines where the alternative is removing the engine. If you have a dipstick leak, check out this product. It might just save the day. Click the link below to purchase on Amazon. It doesn't cost you any extra, plus I will earn a bit of commission. Thanks! amzn.to/3fSOGXA
Don't forget, any other shopping done after clicking the link also supports Montana Garage. Please let me know if you make a purchase, and I'll send you FREE Montana Garage stickers as a thank you!
Plus, we now have a new Amazon store front. Links to the grinder hood, the rechargeable work light I often use, and other recommended shop tools can be found there. More will be added to the storefront soon. Check it out here! www.amazon.com....
Also, it's not too late to get the children's book starring Moose and written by my wife and daughter. It's a great gift for all those kids in your life. What kid doesn't like a book about farm animals? Please follow the link below to get your copy, or do any other shopping on Amazon and Montana Garage will receive a small commission. Thanks for your support. amzn.to/3oeecHX
Please let me know if you purchase a book and I will send you FREE Montana Garage AND Friends on the Farm stickers! It's obviously a win-win situation for you.
Wanna help support my hot rod and video making addiction? You can do so by becoming a member of the channel. Members can get access to special perks, including FREE stickers and special members only content. Follow this link for details.
/ @montanagarage
Come on, hit that JOIN button! Thanks!
Don't forget to visit and follow us over on Instagram @montana_garage where I post many short updates about all of the various projects we are working on.
You can send me an email with your questions, comments, or content ideas to montanagarage55@gmail.com
Doing mine right now. Last thing I want to do on a Saturday. I been working as a mechanic for the last 24 years, 5 days a week, so I hate doing it on weekends, but this truck gets us back and forth to our vacation home in the mountains every month and never lets us down so gotta show her some love
I hear you. Working on my work truck rather than my project cars is a drag. It's been parked for a while again due to yet another oil leak. I've got to force myself to make time to fix it soon. Thanks for watching!
Good stuff. I haven’t had a 7.3 apart, but as a Diesel Ag mechanic I’ve had many John Deere engines apart. In my experience, though not “ideal”, I personally would not worry about the possible obstruction of the oil pickup that an o-ring of that size would cause.
Thanks for the peace of mind. So far no issues....
Super video. And we are always chasing leaks. Eventually they will all be stopped. This is just one more and a good way to do it. Also, just take off the two nuts and get that starter out of the way. It is an extra two minutes of work.
Thanks for watching! Yeah, you're absolutely right about the starter. I tend to do things the hard way though. It wasn't too bad until it kept falling on my face...
@@MontanaGarage I got another leak I am dealing with and really not sure where this one is coming from. I was hoping dipstick housing like in your video but it is bone dry there. It seems like rear seal. All my seals on the top including the turbo platform have been done but this one is a stumper.
Good luck tracking it down!
Great video. Like these repair videos. Nice to see the aftermarket coming up with better solutions too. Be safe and stay well.
Thanks Brian.
Spark plugs are right next to the injectors FYI. Don't forget to change out the spark plug wires and distributor cap while you got her open!
Neat stuff. Enjoyed watching ✌️
Thank you Stanley!
I successfully replaced the O-ring and put a new nut on my 1995 F-350, but when I tried on my 2000 F-350 I lost the flange inside the oil pan with the new washer on it. I am ordering the strictly diesel part now.
Sounds like my experience. I got away with just the oring the first time, then dropped the flange when I had to do it again. I hope you have it all fixed up now. Thanks for watching!
I have ben told that over time the internal flange actually will warp. I have a 2001 Excursion with 431K and I am getting ready to install one on that because I am in your shoes with two repairs to it already and still leaking. Great video. Thanks
Thanks for the tip about the warping. Probably a good idea to check the tightness of those bolts periodically to make sure it stays tight. Thanks for watching!
For a 20 year old Montana truck the underside looks really good. Do they not use salt on the roads up there?
I don't think they use salt here, just sand. Plus, I keep the underside coated in oil with all the various oil leaks. 😁
Dude is laying on carpet in this grass. This guy understands me.
Gotta do what you gotta do, right? Thanks for watching!
Dang helpful, thank you for posting this....helps take the mystery out of the ordeal.
Hey I'm glad it helped. Good luck keeping the old Ford on the road!
@@MontanaGarage had my diesel my local mechanic install it... he said it was a breeze and is doing more and more of these....our trucks are getting to that age and miles.
Another way I know is I learned from my old truck is the old owner just welded it and it never leaked again tbh and that's saying 150k miles later no leaks. But seeing this video makes it look doing able. I tried to do JB weld easy fix and no luck still leaking going try some puddy if not fully replacement only option. I have a 99 with 401k like you said these things just keep chugging along.
Thanks for watching Nick. I did find an adapter that is designed to be welded in place, but not until after I ordered this one. It was significantly cheaper, so there is another option for people with a welder.
@@MontanaGarage but could you say this fix you did stopped it from leaking ?
@@nicksalter2200 Yep, so far no leaks from that repair. It's pretty easy, and seems effective, just a bit spendy for the part.
What part did you find that is meant to be welded in place? Maybe post a link for that part if possible.
@@andrewream5279 just weld the one you have on it now.
Another great video. Was sure I commented but guess not. Loads of hard work going into this
Thanks Roy. I appreciate you always watching buddy.
Highly caution ⚠️ the use of that, I had one for a few years and a month ago the part in the oil pan found its way to the pickup tube blocked the oil pick up while towing a 30ft boat and whipped out a few bearings.
Bummer. Thanks for the feedback. I was a bit concerned that could happen. Mine is still rolling around the oil pan and hasn't caused any issues as of yet. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@MontanaGarage yeah man im sure its just a numbers game i saw my oil pressure drop a few times on the dash but figured it was just a bad sensor what was really happening was it was getting sucked up against the pickup tube. I just got my motor back in after a rebuild I now have a 0 mile 7.3 about to drive it today for the first time
Not all heros where capes thanks for the video gonna do this to my truck
Thanks man. I hope the video helps you fix it. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Great video. Very helpful.
Thanks for watching!
Maybe stick a magnet on the bottom of the pan, it might hold the lost flange to the bottom.......🤷♂️
Probably could but I don't think it's going anywhere. Thanks for watching.
its brass, not ferrous metal magnet won't do a damn thing
Your truck has the smaller starter. Alot f 7.3's have the starter that is longer.
I know there are different ones because one time when I had to replace mine I bought the larger one, but for some reason I couldn't make it fit. I be the bigger one would make the job harder for sure. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video. I'm glad to find out there is an alternative to pulling the engine! Super helpful. Do you have a link to the new nut you ordered? I figure I'll order it all so there's no surprises.
I had to get a new nut when I tried the first repair of just replacing the seal. I got the nut direct from Ford, but here is a link if it helps. amzn.to/3UB5R1s If you go with the Strickly Diesel kit, it should have everything you need. Thanks for watching.
@@MontanaGarage I see you won't need the nut when you replace the whole thing. Got it! Thanks for clarifying. I'm just starting to "enjoy" working on my older F350. Bought a new Tundra last year to replace my '01 7.3L. Don't care for the Tundra- so I'm fixing all the annoying things on my 7.3L and going back to driving it! Puking oil all over the driveway is one of the annoyances.
Just replaced with an ADAPTER just like the one these guys(STRICTLY DIESEL or whom ever) are selling for 300 plus for less than 40 dollars(off EBAY)...WORKS JUST AS WELL...I can understand making a living...BUT DAM!
I know I have seen several "knock off" versions know. When I replaced mine the Strickly Diesel one is all I found. Glad the cheaper version worked for you. Thanks for watching!
Chinese made with unknown quality and alloy vs an American made product of quality and support. Just got mine to install. Ordered the Strictly Diesel one. Yes, I saw the cheap Chicom copy on Amazon too, but not having to worry about it failing on a cross country road trip or failing while crossing the Mohave desert in the summer is why I went with the Strictly Diesel version instead of the other options.
@@518RegulatorsWhatever
can you place a magnet on the bottom of your oil pan for that bracket that fell in there? thats what i would do just for peace of mind?
Probably could I guess, but I probably won't. No issues so far.... Thanks for watching and commenting!
I do like your channel! If you could make more episodes that would work for me! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@69CutlassKen Thanks man. I'm hoping to start making videos a bit more consistently soon. Thanks for the patience in the meantime...
The pass through is made of brass so magnets won’t help. I’ve put 3 of these on truck here in the shop and have yet to have any complaints or problems.
@@MontanaGarage It is not magnetic. I tried.
There is no way on planet Earth that I am going to spend $300 on a repair mechanism that requires me to drop the old part down into the oil pan. LOL. I'm an engine builder so I understand the theory on it "not hurting" anything but that coupled with the enormous ridiculous price literally makes me laugh 😂... The fix is easy , permanently, without all of that.
I agree the piece was stupid expensive, but was much easier tan the alternative of pulling the engine to repair. There are now, and may have been then that I just didn't find, cheaper versions of the same product. So far, the fix has been fine for me with no leaking and no issues with the old flange dropped in the tank. I would love to hear your easy, permanent mix that is so much better though. Thanks for watching.
Yeah, whats the permanent fix ?
Spark plugs 😮😅
Still haven't found 'em... Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Do you happen to know the size of the Dipstick O-ring? I have this same issue and need the repair part here sooner than later, so I bought one of the clones on Amazon. I will report back on the installation and quality.
Thanks for watching. Sorry I don't remember the exact size of the o-ring. I hope the product you selected solves your problem!
So how was it ?
Did the Oring inside have any problems driving it? After awhile
So far so good. No leaks at the dipstick and no issues from the o-ring or old flange dropped in the pan. Thanks for watching.
Diesel doesn’t have spark plugs; they have glow plugs
It was sarcasm
My the part is extremely expensive 😢
Sure is but beats pulling the motor. After I bought it I found a weld on piece for $100, so there are options out there.
I need one sir .where can I get one
Thanks for watching. The part can be purchased through the Montana Garage store on Amazon or from this link, and I'll make a small commission. Thanks for the support! amzn.to/3fSOGXA
There's more people that make them now and other places are charging $25-35 but you don't get a decal lol
Totally worth it for the decal! haha When I was searching I only found the Strickly Diesel one but I do see several more cheaper ones now.
Has anyone had the screws vibrate loose on this new adapter?
I assume it could happen but I haven't seen or heard of it. So far so good on my repair. Thanks for watching!
More vids more vid could of used a coat hanger to try and fish that piece out ?
Thanks Dale. I'm working on the more vids thing... I could have tried a coat hanger, but it really seemed like a lost cause. The o-ring is probably still on the flange, though I doubt it'll stay there forever.
I know you spent well over $300 for your kit, but upon getting your link to Amazon for this part, I see that there are hundreds of clone options that look identical and are mostly $30 or under...What gives?
They all appear to be made in the same factory so why the crazy spread on costs to get that same job done??
Literally, those kits all are built around the same design concept...Has anyone else tried the low cost option?
I never saw the others when I was doing my repair. I had heard good feedback on the Strickly Diesel one, so once I found it, I just went that way. I have no experience with the other cheaper versions, but assume they probably work also.
Strictly came up with this design and they charged an arm and a leg for a part that shouldn't cost more than $150 on the high end even with it being made in the USA. Looks like others outsourced their design. Maybe Strictly will come to their senses and bring this part down to reality. I have no problem paying a premium for USA made goods, but a 1000% mark up is just asinine.
100$ on amazon
Thanks!
To be fair, the Amazon or eBay part in that price range is a Chinese made knock off. Not the USA made StrictlyDiesel part. May be fine- I dunno
@JC-dr8ev I'm running it currently and works great them other guys are way over priced
@@ruizg26 Agreed-I ordered one off Amazon and just put it on this morning- it worked perfectly. I wanna support American innovation and US made, but I can’t do triple the price
@@ruizg26I just ordered one off of eBay for $25. Couldn’t see myself spending over $300! How’s yours holding up? Any leaks or vibrate loose?
Could have been a good four minute instructional video without all the inane banter. Also, just take the f’ing cable off the starter and get it out of the way. Teaching people bad lazy habits is not awesome in an instructional video.
Good points. Thanks for watching.
Just sell your ford an buy a Cummins problem solved
Haha you're probably right. This old Ford has been good to me though, and trust me, I am not a Ford guy.