You may have figured out most of this by now, but if not, here's a quick run-through. The valve that troubled you towards the end is the check valve, which allows air one way into your tank from the compressor (and if working properly, not out). The little tube coming off the side is an unloader valve which runs between the top of the cylinder and the pressure switch; it allows air in the top of the cylinder an exit path to make it more easily restart between cycles (if you're tripping breakers and everything else works, that's the first place to look). Check valves are notorious for getting dirty and sticking open, which leads a lot of people to believe the pressure switch is leaking and needlessly replace it, although they do need replacing on occasion as the diaphragm wears out. Valves in general, regardless of location, are what I consider a consumable and should be checked as part of regular maintenance. Especially safety valves every time you use it. That little guy is the last line of defense to keep your tank from becoming a bomb, so it's worth tugging on it at least once per use to make sure it's not stuck or corroded into its body. The thing with the cheaper compressors is a lot of people run them like their lawn mower, skipping maintenance almost entirely. Change the air filter, drain the tank daily (avoids rust building up in the tank) Rusty tanks, if left to its own devices, will eventually wear out the bottom and if you're lucky, just create air leaks. It's a design principle that means your tank is worn out, so for the love of yourself and the ones around you, don't be tempted to weld it shut! That will make these things far more dangerous and lead to them exploding as the metal is now doubly compromised. The commercial grade tanks are a lot, LOT thinner than they used to be. Industrial tanks are by nature almost overbuilt and will survive a properly trained weld job, but then again, they also go through periodic testing for safety and performance. If one day you move up to an oil-lubed compressor, use synthetic non-detergent compressor oil and change that every so often as you'll eventually get water contamination, but synthetic does last a bit longer just like it does in combustion engines. Not trying to preach (too much), but I will certainly advise anyone I can to spread knowledge, for eventually that will make a smarter pool of people. That's the hope, anyway! 🤞Good on you for sticking out the repair job nonetheless. My last compressor I ended up getting second, possibly third hand, and ended up only carrying over the compressor pump, motor and the tank. These are the risks we take when we inherit the sins of the previous owner, huh!
That was such a great explanation of what was going on here, I can't tell you. I wish I had just read your comment in the first place. I probably would have saved myself an hour of pain. :) As for the person who posted this, I give you props for putting your dilemma out there. It takes balls to let the world see all your warts, so to speak. Anyways good luck in the future.
Don’t want to pile on, but I would have ordered a new motor circuit breaker. Loose connections, overheating, burnt wires. Eventually the circuit breaker will fail when you need the air compressor the most. And yes, oil lubed compressors will last a lifetime if properly serviced.
I have a craftsman compressor that is fairly similar and i ended up cleaning the reed valves, installing a new gasket kit, and replacing the piston sleeve and ring. Compressor runs like its new.
I have a 35 gallon Husky tank with a Speedaire motor and pump. It originally had an oil less motor pump which was loud as heck. I also added a extension on the drain so I can reach it easier. Now it's so quiet I can carry on a conversation standing right next to it! Recently it had an accident and wiped out all the controls! 😩
My Husky compressor started making lots of noise. Sounded like the rod was knocking. So, I decided to let r rip until it blew. It decided to not compress any more, so I decided to see what blew. Pulled off the cover and found the plastic fan had broken and fell off. It was rattling against the rotating parts. So, what happened was it got hot and the plastic seal on the piston stuck to the side of the piston. The seal was smaller than the cylinder. I carefully slowly pulled the plastic away from the piston. Put it back together, and used the other hole in the fan. Has been working fine ever since.
That little valve you didn't know what it does @ 6:30 is the safety pressure valve. It prevents the tank from turning into a bomb if for some reason the motor doesn't shut off at the set PSI and keeps pumping air.
I don't buy those cheap ones new but do get them free and cheap broken then fix them for pocket change. When you get ready for an industrial compressor buy used and they're easier than working on cheapies. I do this stuff not just to save money but to know every part of my equipment from when I get it.
You could also use the other check valve from the smaller compressor if it is the same my 26 gallon compressor is set at 125psi my thinking is that the relief valve is opening where your compressor is set to 150psi causing it to open so with that said you need to adjust the cutout to a lower pressure
Check valve in the tank inlet, might not need the head reed valves to actually hold tank air from leaking out the intake filter?? I'm not sure if every compressor has always had one or if they are on newer compressors only.
I Did not take the time to read many comments. You did not change the piston seal while you were that far in it? I picked up a maybe newer version of the Husky. I believe Campbell Haus makes those. I'm having trouble finding parts as The site does not list that exact one. WL 660 22 gallon. In my small place I have a small one like yours under bench which sits outside under a cover and a hose comes into basement into an old 30 gallon tank on wheels that after removing junk motor is now a volume storage tank. Best; Tom
I've got a Craftsman 33 gal set up similarly. I've replace Cylinder Sleeve and piston 'ring'. along with check new valve, and new pressure switch. New copper line from check valve to pressure switch. On and Off's are set just fine. ALL fittings were done with yellow teflon tape as well as pipe dope. Sprayed with soapy water and no bubbles anywhere. It is loosing around 15 lbs every day and I can not find where air is getting out. Once the check valve closes, it should cut off air back to compressor. I've redone this process twice and can not find the leak using bubbly soap water.......... VERY Frustrating.
@@avflyguy good deal that you found it !. i looked at the dewalt compressors, and everything i read about them on the reviews say they are junk ?. soo..i bit the bullet and started to rebuild my craftsman that is 30 yrs old..lol.
@@alanshaw4655 The original Craftsman stuff is now being sold by Lowes. And the models offered are slim pickings. Found a really good deal on a 30 gallon Dewalt. I've had *zero* issues with it. Similarly it uses many of parts similar as Craftsman does, so it will be easy to rebuild compressor kit if needed. My Kill-a-Watt meter shows only a 14amp running load. Start up does peak a bit above the 20 amp circuit breaker, but it is so brief, it has not tripped a breaker.
as a tech, this video made for some good smiles with morning coffee.. Repair vids arent as fun when everything goes super-smooth (i feel), its more likely the normal person will run into pit-falls and "oopses".. This show was light-hearted and enjoyable. Good camera work, and speed-ups worked well too. As a professional tech since the 90's i could see the future haha before it happened here.. but have to say something about it was enjoyable non the less.. good stuff. Peace!!
Thank you so much for the nice comment! I'll be honest, its hard for me to not feel guilty if I can't spot the issue first try and have super concise videos. But then again, I'd rather bring honest content to the table than to always be right lol
@@ReadySetProjects Keep it up! I taught English in Japan, where they strive for perfection. Which meant that a large majority of my students were initially afraid to give the 'wrong' answer. I would always encourage them to try and to not feel bad about making mistakes. Because not only does the individual learn from that mistake, but the rest of the class learns along with them. In the same vein, videos like this one allow the creator/troubleshooter to learn AND anyone who watches. This is the essence of what makes the Internet so great! We all strive and hope for perfection. But we have to realize it's not practical to expect it. So, thanks for making, editing, and sharing your mistakes. "A rising tide raises all ships." -Some smart guy
Are you going to connect your 8 gallon tank to your air system to get even more storage capacity? It won't need to be plugged into a power supply. That check valve beraking reminds me of about half my repairs.
Watch out for those blue and gray capacitors (they are starter capacitors, arent' they?). They can shock you something fierce... deadly even... Some guys short them with an insulated screwdriver before beginning work. I think you can check if they have a voltage by using a multimeter. Just know what its like to get a shock by one!
You didn't really turn that on its side to drain the moisture out of the tank did you, tilted to drain moisture is not to drain the moisture. It's the tilted back so you can loosen the valve on the bottom of the tank and then you stand upright and drain the moisture out
If air is getting back to the head, check your check valve… The compressor will have restart issues when pressure drops because the check valve is not doing its job.
The valve is used to release head pressure when the pump shuts off so the motor can start up not being under a load. The other valve in the tank is the check valve which seals off the tank when the pump shuts off, it may have dirt in it causing it to allow air out of the tank and out the intake.
lol, i'll give him credit where credit is due for sticking with it ?, but yeah, he should have researched a tad on this model compressor before he started messing with it. anytime i take on a project ( such as my 5.5hp, 25 gallon craftsman air compressor ), before i removed the first screw ?, i went on line, read about my model, looked up all the serviceable parts, placed order for them, it's got to be over 30 yrs old ?, i use it a lot in my shop, never has let me down, until just a few days ago, time to rebuild it !..lol. i looked at all new ( brand name ) compressors out there...and every damn one of them are made in china !!. plus. No one make a horizonal air compressor my size now ?, they are all stand ups, don't have room in my shop for this kind. i miss the days when craftsman was still around, and made in usa !. screw this china junk.
I gotta ask. Was the cheap compressor worth all the work, buying parts and mostly the pain in the a...? In some cases theres no shame in buying a new good quality compressor that will handle your needs safely! Im just saying. Good video
it's a real cheap compressor...the metal that looks like Aluminum is not it's real soft ZINC...China..back in the 50's when it;s made in America they would of used Machinery steel...Of course the cost would be more.yet last 100% longer... then china using the cheapest materials....The best would be machined stainless steel parts.. High dollar stuff...yet look at it this way pay more for quality and not breaking down..then buying new cheap compressor every 6-10 months.
You may have figured out most of this by now, but if not, here's a quick run-through. The valve that troubled you towards the end is the check valve, which allows air one way into your tank from the compressor (and if working properly, not out). The little tube coming off the side is an unloader valve which runs between the top of the cylinder and the pressure switch; it allows air in the top of the cylinder an exit path to make it more easily restart between cycles (if you're tripping breakers and everything else works, that's the first place to look). Check valves are notorious for getting dirty and sticking open, which leads a lot of people to believe the pressure switch is leaking and needlessly replace it, although they do need replacing on occasion as the diaphragm wears out. Valves in general, regardless of location, are what I consider a consumable and should be checked as part of regular maintenance. Especially safety valves every time you use it. That little guy is the last line of defense to keep your tank from becoming a bomb, so it's worth tugging on it at least once per use to make sure it's not stuck or corroded into its body.
The thing with the cheaper compressors is a lot of people run them like their lawn mower, skipping maintenance almost entirely. Change the air filter, drain the tank daily (avoids rust building up in the tank) Rusty tanks, if left to its own devices, will eventually wear out the bottom and if you're lucky, just create air leaks. It's a design principle that means your tank is worn out, so for the love of yourself and the ones around you, don't be tempted to weld it shut! That will make these things far more dangerous and lead to them exploding as the metal is now doubly compromised. The commercial grade tanks are a lot, LOT thinner than they used to be. Industrial tanks are by nature almost overbuilt and will survive a properly trained weld job, but then again, they also go through periodic testing for safety and performance.
If one day you move up to an oil-lubed compressor, use synthetic non-detergent compressor oil and change that every so often as you'll eventually get water contamination, but synthetic does last a bit longer just like it does in combustion engines.
Not trying to preach (too much), but I will certainly advise anyone I can to spread knowledge, for eventually that will make a smarter pool of people. That's the hope, anyway! 🤞Good on you for sticking out the repair job nonetheless. My last compressor I ended up getting second, possibly third hand, and ended up only carrying over the compressor pump, motor and the tank. These are the risks we take when we inherit the sins of the previous owner, huh!
Ok
That was such a great explanation of what was going on here, I can't tell you. I wish I had just read your comment in the first place. I probably would have saved myself an hour of pain. :) As for the person who posted this, I give you props for putting your dilemma out there. It takes balls to let the world see all your warts, so to speak. Anyways good luck in the future.
Your comments are useful and I appreciate them!
Don’t want to pile on, but I would have ordered a new motor circuit breaker. Loose connections, overheating, burnt wires. Eventually the circuit breaker will fail when you need the air compressor the most. And yes, oil lubed compressors will last a lifetime if properly serviced.
I have a craftsman compressor that is fairly similar and i ended up cleaning the reed valves, installing a new gasket kit, and replacing the piston sleeve and ring. Compressor runs like its new.
I really admire your stick-to-itivness, and extreme calm under immense pressure. Well done young man!
this was extremely painful
great patience with this repair. learned alot from this.
“That sounds pretty healthy” haha that sounds like a dying dog wheezing his last breath
I have a 35 gallon Husky tank with a Speedaire motor and pump. It originally had an oil less motor pump which was loud as heck. I also added a extension on the drain so I can reach it easier. Now it's so quiet I can carry on a conversation standing right next to it! Recently it had an accident and wiped out all the controls! 😩
Over pressure relief valve is what the bypass valve near the pressure regulator you mentioned.
My Husky compressor started making lots of noise. Sounded like the rod was knocking. So, I decided to let r rip until it blew. It decided to not compress any more, so I decided to see what blew. Pulled off the cover and found the plastic fan had broken and fell off. It was rattling against the rotating parts. So, what happened was it got hot and the plastic seal on the piston stuck to the side of the piston. The seal was smaller than the cylinder. I carefully slowly pulled the plastic away from the piston. Put it back together, and used the other hole in the fan. Has been working fine ever since.
I like the nature of troubleshooting things . You're not always going to be able to research things. Fantastic video.
That little valve you didn't know what it does @ 6:30 is the safety pressure valve. It prevents the tank from turning into a bomb if for some reason the motor doesn't shut off at the set PSI and keeps pumping air.
Did you clean out the tubing from the compressor head to the check valve? It might be holding a bunch of debris.
I don't buy those cheap ones new but do get them free and cheap broken then fix them for pocket change. When you get ready for an industrial compressor buy used and they're easier than working on cheapies. I do this stuff not just to save money but to know every part of my equipment from when I get it.
I'm very impressed with your patience!!
You could also use the other check valve from the smaller compressor if it is the same my 26 gallon compressor is set at 125psi my thinking is that the relief valve is opening where your compressor is set to 150psi causing it to open so with that said you need to adjust the cutout to a lower pressure
Use grease to hold orings in place
Check valve in the tank inlet, might not need the head reed valves to actually hold tank air from leaking out the intake filter?? I'm not sure if every compressor has always had one or if they are on newer compressors only.
What model number is that? Looks exactly the one I have. Got it from a friend and it is not building air.
My humble words of wisdom are, if an overhaul kit is available, get it!
Do it right ✅️
I Did not take the time to read many comments.
You did not change the piston seal while you were that far in it?
I picked up a maybe newer version of the Husky. I believe Campbell Haus makes those.
I'm having trouble finding parts as The site does not list that exact one. WL 660 22 gallon.
In my small place I have a small one like yours under bench which sits outside under a cover and a hose comes into basement into an old 30 gallon tank on wheels that after removing junk motor is now a volume storage tank.
Best; Tom
I've got a Craftsman 33 gal set up similarly. I've replace Cylinder Sleeve and piston 'ring'. along with check new valve, and new pressure switch. New copper line from check valve to pressure switch. On and Off's are set just fine. ALL fittings were done with yellow teflon tape as well as pipe dope. Sprayed with soapy water and no bubbles anywhere. It is loosing around 15 lbs every day and I can not find where air is getting out. Once the check valve closes, it should cut off air back to compressor. I've redone this process twice and can not find the leak using bubbly soap water.......... VERY Frustrating.
ummm..did you check the drain valve under the tank too see if its leaking when closed ?.
@@alanshaw4655 Turns out I had a leak on the bottom of the tank. Making a BBQ smoker out of it. Went with new DeWalt compressor
@@avflyguy good deal that you found it !. i looked at the dewalt compressors, and everything i read about them on the reviews say they are junk ?. soo..i bit the bullet and started to rebuild my craftsman that is 30 yrs old..lol.
@@alanshaw4655 The original Craftsman stuff is now being sold by Lowes. And the models offered are slim pickings. Found a really good deal on a 30 gallon Dewalt. I've had *zero* issues with it. Similarly it uses many of parts similar as Craftsman does, so it will be easy to rebuild compressor kit if needed. My Kill-a-Watt meter shows only a 14amp running load. Start up does peak a bit above the 20 amp circuit breaker, but it is so brief, it has not tripped a breaker.
as a tech, this video made for some good smiles with morning coffee.. Repair vids arent as fun when everything goes super-smooth (i feel), its more likely the normal person will run into pit-falls and "oopses".. This show was light-hearted and enjoyable. Good camera work, and speed-ups worked well too.
As a professional tech since the 90's i could see the future haha before it happened here.. but have to say something about it was enjoyable non the less.. good stuff. Peace!!
Thank you so much for the nice comment! I'll be honest, its hard for me to not feel guilty if I can't spot the issue first try and have super concise videos. But then again, I'd rather bring honest content to the table than to always be right lol
@@ReadySetProjects Keep it up! I taught English in Japan, where they strive for perfection. Which meant that a large majority of my students were initially afraid to give the 'wrong' answer. I would always encourage them to try and to not feel bad about making mistakes. Because not only does the individual learn from that mistake, but the rest of the class learns along with them.
In the same vein, videos like this one allow the creator/troubleshooter to learn AND anyone who watches. This is the essence of what makes the Internet so great!
We all strive and hope for perfection. But we have to realize it's not practical to expect it.
So, thanks for making, editing, and sharing your mistakes.
"A rising tide raises all ships."
-Some smart guy
Are you going to connect your 8 gallon tank to your air system to get even more storage capacity? It won't need to be plugged into a power supply.
That check valve beraking reminds me of about half my repairs.
Honestly I might, because that is a great idea. Been struggling to figure out what i wanna do with the little hotdog one haha
Watch out for those blue and gray capacitors (they are starter capacitors, arent' they?). They can shock you something fierce... deadly even... Some guys short them with an insulated screwdriver before beginning work. I think you can check if they have a voltage by using a multimeter. Just know what its like to get a shock by one!
You can check with a multi meter if it measures mfd.
You didn't really turn that on its side to drain the moisture out of the tank did you, tilted to drain moisture is not to drain the moisture. It's the tilted back so you can loosen the valve on the bottom of the tank and then you stand upright and drain the moisture out
There is a valve that is leaking it is usually in the tubing
Check valve at end of hose going into tank, stuck maybe
does any body knows the model of this compressor?
Good Luck, thx for sharing.
trying to set the high pressure to 150 is to high for that compressor
Use "EXTREME" caution when you set your parts on the capacitors like he did here! One false move and it's lights out - forever!
If air is getting back to the head, check your check valve… The compressor will have restart issues when pressure drops because the check valve is not doing its job.
The valve is used to release head pressure when the pump shuts off so the motor can start up not being under a load. The other valve in the tank is the check valve which seals off the tank when the pump shuts off, it may have dirt in it causing it to allow air out of the tank and out the intake.
So thats same thing can be wrong with the little husky compressor
I see Subaru Crosstrek rims
I would suggest, you do more research before you do another job like that . Think about things more .
lol, i'll give him credit where credit is due for sticking with it ?, but yeah, he should have researched a tad on this model compressor before he started messing with it. anytime i take on a project ( such as my 5.5hp, 25 gallon craftsman air compressor ), before i removed the first screw ?, i went on line, read about my model, looked up all the serviceable parts, placed order for them, it's got to be over 30 yrs old ?, i use it a lot in my shop, never has let me down, until just a few days ago, time to rebuild it !..lol. i looked at all new ( brand name ) compressors out there...and every damn one of them are made in china !!. plus. No one make a horizonal air compressor my size now ?, they are all stand ups, don't have room in my shop for this kind. i miss the days when craftsman was still around, and made in usa !. screw this china junk.
I saved this video to show people why they should not try to fix junked air compressors.
One way check valve, capacitor bad
I gotta ask. Was the cheap compressor worth all the work, buying parts and mostly the pain in the a...? In some cases theres no shame in buying a new good quality compressor that will handle your needs safely! Im just saying. Good video
it's a real cheap compressor...the metal that looks like Aluminum is not it's real soft ZINC...China..back in the 50's when it;s made in America they would of used Machinery steel...Of course the cost would be more.yet last 100% longer... then china using the cheapest materials....The best would be machined stainless steel parts.. High dollar stuff...yet look at it this way pay more for quality and not breaking down..then buying new cheap compressor every 6-10 months.
This wasn't helpful at all😢