@@adnanxm See tony heller here on the tube to finds out who is lying. Guess what, it ain't he. Get a mirror and confess, after watching some tony heller channel here. It's not your fault, they just lie to you.
A friend of mine used to be a shop fitter, and he once acquired the compressors from 4 of those 6' long, sliding glass topped display freezers from a large independent store. The store actually PAID him to come and take these working freezers away and scrap them, so he yanked out the compressors to keep, then separated out all the different metals, and weighed it all in at the local metal recyclers to get even more money. So in essence, he'd been paid TWICE for the privilege of being given 4 perfectly usable high capacity freezer compressors. :D Anyway, he found a broken 3 phase compressor on a 150L tank going for next to nothing on Facebook Marketplace (He weighed in the damaged cast iron pump and motor from that too, so buying the tank also ended up making him money !). He welded up a box section frame and fitted all the pumps to it on rubber mounts, then bolted that to the tank. The interesting bit was that he got a 1 to 4 air hose splitter and mounted 4 adjustable pressure switches on it with each compressor having it's own switch. This meant that first thing he could manually start the compressors one at a time to avoid the huge start-up power spike of all 4 trying to start at once and tripping the breaker. The start/stop pressures were all set slightly different too, so as he used air the compressors would kick in one at a time. That setup was an absolute beast. The compressors were plumbed into 4 separate tank inlets to avoid unnecessary restrictions, and it had something like a 1.5" ID outlet plumbed directly into his sandblasting cabinet. With all 4 pumps running it could still slowly increase the tanks pressure even WHILE he was constantly using the sandblaster !!! The kicker was that it could do that while making less noise than a Labrador suffering with flatulence ! :D
@@SeriouslyYo No, sorry mate. My friends called Danial. I'm quite intrigued about roughly where you are though. Here in the UK the name "Vanessa" is solely a feminine name. Off the top of my head I can't remember hearing of any place where it's also a masculine name. As I said, I'm quite intrigued. Does he shorten it ("Ness" or "Van" maybe?).
I built a similar air compressor a few years ago, I needed a ultra quite compressor for airbrushing in the house and off the shelf ultra quite compressors were more than $800. I bought a brand new 2 gallon compressor on sale for $75 to get a known good pressure vessel, pressure switch and safety blow off valve, and slapped on a salvaged fridge compressor and 1 micron micromist oil/water separator from SMC to get the cleanest driest possible air cost less than $160 to build a compressor i cant even hear running from 2 feet away
I built one like that 30 years ago with an expired propane tank, set up to run 150psi max. Made a stack rig to put it on an old moving dolly, included hose reel and a rack for air gun, tire chuck, etc. Every thing else about the same as yours. I used some leftover (new) 5W20 synthetic motor oil and an oil separator with a drain petcock, 500 psi rating. Cheap, quiet, durable. I gave it to my son a few years ago for tires and such, I don't do many projects any more. Used to build and modify hotrods. Very nice to watch a kindred spirit with a similar sense of humor. Thanks very much for the memory jog.
The oil in the compressor does not always need to be changed: R12, R600a, R22, R290 - mineral oil - suitable for compressor construction R134a, R404a, R407c - ester oil - acid forms due to the moisture in the air being sucked in and dissolves the insulation of the motor winding. You can fill the compressor via the suction line.
I absolutely love the idea of an affordable, small, and most importantly QUIET air compressor! Even better that it's a fairly simple diy project. I am useless when it comes to working on electronics, but i would actually consider making one of these. With it being so quiet, you could even use a bigger tank, as the capacity of the pump matters less when its so quiet. I wouldn't mind this just always being on in the background
A syringe that size is usually used for draining blood and other fluids. They also use them for administration of anesthesia. It takes quite a bit to put someone under. Of course in that situation it’s hooked to the IV in the patient’s arm. Yesterday was the last time we used one that size. An older patient came in with pain and inflammation in his elbow which after the scan it was full of fluid. We used a big needle with the big syringe to safely drain his elbow. Much less invasive than cutting into it. Here’s another use that will make your penis hurt. If you have ever seen warnings on certain pills that say if erection last more than 4 hours see a doctor. Well the treatment for this is one of those syringes with a decent size needle stick it into the penis and drain the blood. I have never seen it before but I have read about this and heard stories from other people. Great video. Huge improvement. I hope my answer was helpful.
Great job. Only suggestion I can think of is braze on a different fitting for the air filter so you can have a larger opening for "suction air". Should air up faster that way.
You might consider keeping the condenser coil and fan to make dry air. Keeping the reservoir tank dry prevents it rusting out. I think the rectfier makes DC so the pump can be a cheap 12VDC tire inflator pump.
I have my 3.5 hp compressor running straight into a transmission cooler with a fan and shroud. Air goes in at nearly 300 degrees and comes out closer to 90. Then to an auto drain air dryer before going into the main tank. I have another dryer coming out of the tank but it’s never had anything it. Most of the benefit of Nitrogen filled tires is that it doesn’t hold moisture. If the air going in your tires has less moisture your tire pressure will fluctuates less that it would otherwise. Dry air is the best air
@@trahar6257That's a myth, nitrogen can be wet (i.e. a mix of nitrogen and water vapor). The nitrogen used for tire inflation has been dried to remove the water.
@@frostbite1991It quite obviously is not a 12v motor otherwise it would be smoked the first time it was switched on. It is a permanent magnet motor (which requires DC) but is rated for line voltage.
If you want some stupidly effective zip-tie cutters, look for the smaller clippers used for pet nail trimming. They have very blunt ends, so you'll never nip anything accidentally, the blades are designed to "scoop" before the snip, and they are incredibly sharp for an effortless action.
@@HectorFabela-k6u Because I've used them all. Regular electrician's dikes, smaller true flush cutters, and cat nail trimmers. In the case where you're worried about nicking nearby things, the cat nail clippers work better than the other two. They are a fraction of a second slower to use.
I second this. I have a set of cuticle trimmers and a toenail nipper in my tool bag. They are more precision than any wire nipper I’ve ever used because there’s less metal between cutting bevel and face of the nipper.
my father built a massive homemade air compressor for painting cars back in the 1970’s. It ran an antique fridge compressor, via rubber belt and very large electric motor. The tank was around 50 gallon. had moisture trap and regulator. took a few minutes to build pressure, but that thing could run a consistent high pressure and volume for days!
My toxic ADHD trait is that i am 100% convinced i could replicate this after watching it twice, IF i can manage to have it done before getting distracted and moving on to something else.
I mean this is the kinda thing I would expect someone who's been living with ADHD for a while to be able to pull off, tbf. Also worth noting that I am someone who's been living with ADHD a while, and I constantly forget that the rabbit holes people with ADHD go down aren't necessarily the ones I've gone down, so y'know.. projection disclaimer. Still, this is a pretty achievable build, and I'm upset because my last job was as a handyman, and I've chucked who knows how many of these pumps after replacing fridges, and I'm sure some of them had working pumps. Couldn't be in the fridge when you bring it to the scrap yard tho, and one of the other comments was talking about lining up 4 of these little pumps, ofsetting their start and stop pressures to prevent amperage spikes, and ending up with a very quiet, high-volume compressor, and I've already got a decent volume tank.
@@LifeInJambles there's an old video somewhere here in youtubeland of a girl doing almost the same thing. she paralleled four cheapo lil retail air compressors together, each with their own little tank. She also adjusted the pressure limits to sequence-cycle the compressors. She used drying media beads to dry the output air tho, those fridge condenser/fan combo bits look ideal to dry the air! hey, if your throw-away guilt becomes too much, you can always take a ride down to the nearest junkyard/scrapyard and get a little dirty hhaha
Your comment is my ADHD reality. I have countless unfinished projects that are overwhelming at this point. Was going to say more but zoned out on the video.😂
@@Kirk_Wood lmao, i found water damage under one of my living room windows, opened it up and saw some mold so i started a remediation process. since the wall has no insulation i figured id remove the entire wall. that means window molding. the windows are old so they are also off so i can scrape off the old paint and replace the chains. im trying to find the inspiration to get back to it. my LR is a disaster right now, lol the snowball effect is REAL
doping a flare connection actually lubricates the threads and allows it to loosen over time, dry and to proper torque it'll stay together a lot longer especially w vibration
I had one of the HF compressors that kept destroying the connecting rod bearing on the crank. Finally found that skate board bearings seem to be the proper replacement size. I msut have gone trhough at least 8 bearings before giving up on it.
Ahh yes 608z there everywhere. I found the bearing problem you had is caused by the crank pin not being parallel or the bearing not being in line when in the con rod, this all poor machining by the manufacturer the last common reason, usually where the bearing is held in by a cap, if the bearing is crushed out of round by over tightening.
Hi! Nurse here. Those big syringes are for the patients we don't like. The come paired with the bigger needles, too (Serious answer: Some instances require a lot of fluid for stuff, like flushing urinary catheters or NG tubes. It has a statlock on it, so it is technically compatible with IVs, but I rarely if ever see that much fluid given via syringe.)
i used to have one under the counter at the pharmacy for all the addicts who came in and asked for 100cc 12ga syringes (they meant u100 insulin syringes) just so i could have the last laugh
They can be used like a rapid infusion gun for giving a bunch of fluid very quickly to a hypovolemic patient. If you don't have a pressure bag, usually it's easiest to use a BP cuff on the IV bag. But, you could also use one of these syringes. Slam a bunch of Ringer's into an IO and bring a patient back from the dead. 😸
NICE!! I am sure this will work with my 8 Gal. Briggs & Stratton oil-less! It's just basically reusing the tank. There are also videos on making a vacuum pump out of a fridge compressor. Guy made a cool setup to remove your engines oil through the dipstick hole. Sucked out all but maybe 1 oz.! Easy clean up, too.
@12:37 not only is that not a sealing surface, the application of tape or sealing compound can impede the proper tightening of the nut to compress the flare against the cone where the seal needs to actually happen. If anything, a small amount of oil or antiseize to prevent long-term corrosion is preferred. But care must be used to ensure the reduction in friction does not lead to overtightening.
My first job was in a photo lab back when film was used for pictures. The air compressor in that shop sounded just like this compressor. When I got my compressor many years later I never could figure out how they got that film shop compressor so quiet. Its clearly using this type of setup. They should make all compressors this way.
It's more expensive to manufacture (DIY not included, manufacturers can't reliably scavenge old refrigerators) and more maintenance for the end user. People ending up with Harbor Freight compressors ( 🙋) aren't going out of their way to find high quality tools that cost a bit more.
Basically every "name brand" makes a "quiet" air compressor now... Even harborfreight, atleast in their twin head designs... Although it's always worth checking the stated DB output! Apparently it seems nearly every name brand considers anything 5-DB quiter than their previously really loud compressors sold for decades as qualified for "quiet" marketing, just because they are slighty quieter, but not even comparable to most twin head truly quiet air compressors... Especially when you start looking at 120v units pushing 4 CFM at 90psi plus (or even SCFM nonsense 😒) Alot of the 70-75db plus belt driven designs come to mind... Yes Dewalt those are quiter than your previous model, but still sound like a Detroit Diesel compared to a true quiet design... (Absolutely NOT the only company using this marketing tactic, but a good example that you can often hear/experience in the wild before buying) Happy tinnitus hunting everyone 👍 🙉
@@instazx2 Window air conditioners aren't that expensive even brand new and have much more powerful, more reliable compressors than refrigerators anywhere near the same price range. Some of these refrigeration/AC compressors are also rated at FAR higher air pressures at the outlet than most working men would be comfortable being near. It would cost more than the weak little airhorns in cheap air compressors, but not exorbitantly more.
For making the flare,use the thickness of a nickel placed flat on the flaring tool and bring the tubing out that far to have the right amount sticking out to make the flare.
Use JB Weld around the threads to seal leaking threads, doesn't matter if it's the original or quick weld. Just make sure that it fully cures BEFORE putting any pressure on it!!
Dude, awesome work. I have the 21 gallon tank version of this and now want to fix it's noise level. Too bad I didn't know about this when I replaced my fridge a few months ago.
Great video. I've been saving an old compressor from a commercial ice machine for a couple years with the intent to do something like this. If you swap the inlet and outlet of the compressor you have created a vacuum freon recovery system with a built in storage tank. Thx for the video.
I agree. I was waiting for that but it never happened. Free air cooler ! On the other hand it is a 3 gal. tank so, probably not used for much other than a pin nailer or tire pump. I'd still have liked to have seen it.
This video came across my feed. Watching it, and you Sir, at 4:20 just earned a subscription from me. Frozen Reese's are the way to go, nothing beats it.
I like what you did there. My chief complaint as a hobbyist is that a compressor like that is too loud but has good volume for an airbrush and most airbrush compressors are more expensive than the harbor freight model you just upgraded. I'm not saying I'm cheap, but I'd definitely consider this before paying for another airbrush compressor because this has more uses AND can run my brush
warning get a really good pressure releif valve those fridge compressors go up to 500psi that will blow that tank right up so use a couple of them one on the tank and or one on the valve assembly.. also your going to want to make sure the tube is long going into the tank why fridge compressors are bathed in oil and shoot out oil on the discharge so you might want to use a vaopr canister or oil catch before it goes into the red tank and a way to refill it back into the compressor you can get wisper quiet compressors now anyway california air makes a small one and harbor frieght now makes a really good one its really quiet and no fridge compressor
@reggiebannister1080 I blew up a 350PSI gauge in a moment of 10sec, (R-134 1/3HP compressor), by errantly hooking the low gauge to the high side, of a high side restricted system. It just went right on up up up without any struggle, no straining, no squealing. If the scavenged compressor was originally a R-404 or R-502, or R-22 system, the internal bypass may go past 500+. If it is gummed up from previous contaminated operation or rusted, It may be seized and not operational at all.
@@BTW... That is true, but these parts must be in good working order as this type of motor is capable of much more output than the original design. Safety - safety - safety. Many handypersons remove stuff they do not understand and create dangerous situations for themselves and others around them. These pumps are capable of possibly 500psi. That is serious pressure!
@@BTW... I never said that, implied that, confirmed that, or approved of that, (Plastic oil separator, Fit for Purpose, etc.) you must be quoting someone else...Sorry. Maybe talk to Journeyman53 about your concerns about his comments?
I'm planning on having 2 pressure relive valves on mine. I don't trust Chinese made pressure relief valves as a safety device. But its unlikely 2 would both fail shut, so hopefully 1 of them will still be creational worse case scenario. Do not want a 500psi bawmb going off in a small garage
I used one of those self tapping screws...it was the very short 1/2" one...drilled a hole in the bottom to drain the oil, then put 10w-30 motor oil (so later on I can just unscrew that bolt and replace the oil with regularity)...but that harbor freight oil would be much better (non-detergent oil) I put 2oz...or 1/4 cup...those little compressors don't use alot...and will blow it out until it's at the right level oh..another thing...a good 1/4oz of MotorKote will help the compressor on dry starts Very very very cool!
@@30CalCoreLokt sorry. The motor is 36vdc. Thete is a rectifier under the cover. It still uses 120 but im controling it from the cab with a dc relay from the cab. Control side is 12v but switched is in the dc side of the bridge rectifier to switch from the cab.
I would have tried to mount the tank on the base where the compressor was… then the compressor on top of the tank… used the condenser and condenser fan as a cooler for the air to remove moisture, then back to the tank. I may have to try this if I find a used refrigeration system. Cool build!! Thanks. 🙂👍🏻👍🏻
Pretty cool idea. It’s not very portable but if you’ve got a mini compressor for space reasons and you don’t lug it around too often this would be a really kick ass upgrade. At first I was a little apprehensive because I was scared of what would happen if the pressure switch failed but a quick google search seems to indicate that a compressor of that type probably won’t make much over 200 if that so I felt quite a bit better after reading that. Thanks for posting 👍
You should always have a safety pop off valve in your tank plumbing. ALWAYS. That's its core purpose. Should the cutoff switch fail, it (if designed correctly) will go off around 10% above the pressure cutoff (usually set near or at the tanks' rated working pressure). This is also generally designed to be a fraction of the tanks rated maximum pressure for safety margin. So even if it goes over working pressure by 15 or 25%, you're still safe because the tank typically is rated for up to 3/3.5 times the working pressure (depending if the tanks are ASME code compliant or not). It's not meant to run at the maximum pressure, hence why "working pressure" exists, but it can be overshot slightly in adverse operation without causing serious issues.
I really appreciate it, and I love your channel, but I would appreciate an up-front list of all the stuff you will use. There are a lot of parts to know about. I dunno, I used to thrive on video, but this is a huge project so having things written would be super convenient.
For my second compressor I bought a larger 20 gal with a belt run pump ($4-500 range, but it had good performance numbers and relatively quiet. Plus I later augmented my fixed air lines with an additional removable tank). I got really annoyed with the water that would come out of the system, more cause I didn’t want it to go into my tires, but also my tools, so I got a cheap (I think it was like $15?) transmission cooler, got the appropriate copper tubing & a decent filter and threw that all between the pump and the tank. Positioned the cooler in front of the belt guard which is in front of the fan that runs off the motor and viola. Pulls lots, dare I say effectively all detectable?, water from the compressed air & cools the charged air down so it’s even denser in the tank. Didn’t take long, wasn’t expensive (most expensive part was the filter/ / air/water separator - scoured eBay for a while looking for a good enough one that was heavily discounted) & keeps my lines & tanks virtually moisture free (some builds up, but only after a lotttt of use). It’s awesome. Always wanted a faster pump without breaking the bank. Will have to check out some fridge compressors - thanks!
Maybe you can keep the condenser and condenser fan from the old fridge. A window AC may work better for this purpose...maybe keep the evaporator as well in series with the condenser and a trap at the end to drain water.
This is great! I run laser engravers that use an air compressor to keep smoke and debris out of the laser nozzle, and this will make the shop so much more bearable with how quite it is. I think I'll keep the condenser to cool the air and help pull moisture out of the charge
Only thing I would have changed is mounting the compressor on the other side. That would have gave easy access to the drain and prevented issues with the hose interfering with the supply line. Also would have made the exposed wiring less. Excess to the compressor could have been shortened or looped in the box.
old video but that rectifier is indeed for the compressor motor, that looks to me like a brushed motor and while they *can* run on AC as seen in so called universal motors of vacuum cleaners and corded drills, theres no stator winding on that one from what i can tell so it only can run off DC (as with a stator magnet the commutator flips the AC rapidly but itll never sync up with a magnet while a stator winding will be in sync as in the stator field is opposing to the rotor field)
why they used that instead of an induction motor i honestly have no clue, perhaps since it has to be so small and also spin really fast, induction motors are big if they need torque, the kinda motor youd see on a furnace blower or large air compressor instead
Speaking of kaboom, fridge compressors are capable of much higher pressure than a cheap air compressor. Be sure to set the pressure switch accordingly and consider adding a high pressure blowout plug as well.
I was under the impression that those compressors were higher pressure, but very slow. Hmm, Maybe I could do this with a slightly larger tank and 2 compressors running in parallel for increased CFM. Love the video. You gained a sub. :)
Find the biggest 120v appliance like an ice machine that pulls as close to 15amps and that should be the biggest rated compressor of this type. I used one from an Ice machine.
@@DimMakTen True! But where are you going to find a perfectly good ice machine that nobody wants, just to scavenge a compressor from. Ice machines usually run A LOT!, refrigerators run about 30-50% on-off, but ice runs about 80% on, that is a lot more wear and tear on the valves before the total machine failed. Not impossible, just don't be holding your breath.
@@DimMakTen True, The compressor in the OP's project already runs at about 9-10A, and 50A during start, Not a lot of margin for a bigger compressor unless you go with a 20A breaker, wire, and outlet dedicated, as ICE is supposed to be on a dedicated circuit because of the electrical demand. 100% run should only consume 80% of available electrical capacity, preferably less.
Those big syringes are used for medical syringe pumps, when you need a slow and steady dose over time. It’s coupled to an iv-line, for example running iv anaesthesia during an operation or epinephrine in the ICU
Those syringes are used for "irrigation" with saline solution most of the time, so you used it with solvent to do the same thing to the compressor motor.
We don’t have Harbor Freight in Canada, we have Princess Auto. I just happen to have a dead PA compressor in the garage that I now know what to do with. Thanks!!!
A bit of a problem is freon(oid) piston compressors have no rings on piston and work ok because of high tolerances in a closed system but if you introduce not perfectly filtered air and air (containing humidity) will fail pretty soon. Non reciprocating compressors are even worse when it comes to this...
Perfect use for that old window AC unit whose fan motor went out years ago (but the compressor still runs) that's been sitting out back of my garden shed ever since. See? I knew it would be useful someday.
I put large self tapping screws with rubber gaskets on top and bottom of mine. It makes oil changes easy. And a larger air filter probably wouldn't hurt.
the motor runs on dc so the compressor needs a full bridge rectifier to run it you can tell (most of the time) whether a motor is ac or dc by how many wires it has going to it and the color of the wires, a dc compressor should only have two wires going to it, one black and one red
My first run as amedical first responder was for a patient with diabetes and she looked dead. Paramedics took a huge syringe like that and injected a sugar solution directly into her stomach. She woke up in a very short time swinging and it was like a miracle to me!
9:03 nurse here answering your question. When the patient is being rude… 😂 other reasons include accurate measurements when mixing certain things, filling up medical devices, irrigating wounds, suctioning or aspirating stuff like clogged airways…
I have an old school Craftsman compressor that I bought at Sears, long before they sold the Craftsman name. It is VERY similar to this one, and I might have to give this mod a shot.
Wouldnt have ever thought to use a fridge compressor for an air pump... not like they are much different, good work, now i feel like i need to do this to my hazar fart compressor
Here in Australia, we have tools in both imperial and metric systems. To be honest its actually handy having both (as I work on truck exhausts - we have a lot of Kenworth trucks here)
in 10 minutes runtime on mine, i had burned up the switch, popped the odd ac to dc rectifer, lost a total of 3 THREE thhe- reee crimp spade connectors that caused one wire to short 120v ac to bare metal (aka red powdercoating) and after fixing, it got so hot in the cylinder that friction coating rubbed off and went immediately to zero compression. i got a aftermarket WARN mini compressor for locking air differentials, mounted it and added a powerful fan and set cutoff/ on to 120psi/150psi. 3 years nonstop use and perfectly good. the tank itself is thick with excellent welds, rated at 500psi burst and 300psi max.
Interesting to say the least but not enough displacement to run just about anything i use, but you have given me the idea to possibly make a vacuum pump thanks:)
We use those large syringes many things but often for medications or flush feeding tubes for patients who can't swallow via G tube. Gastronomy tubes are an intervention where a tube goes directly to the stomach through the abdomen
I bought a Milwaukee compressor that runs on a power tool battery and that thing will fill a tire pretty fast. I think they have two and I got the bigger rectangle one. It’s awesome at filling tires!
You could have kept the condenser. Plumping the compressor discharge into it and then the outlet into automatic drain, water air separator you can get slightly more capacity as arriving air won't be hot and water would automatically get separated giving you cold dry air.
Looks like you gonna have to increase the airflow to roll around on that, maybe if you boosted with your chair-compressor outlet at the same time. Also when I built mine a few years ago it also squealed “a bit”, but as I recall it became quieter after stretching out the spring a bit making it quicker/tighter and it’d only make a little sound when first filling the empty tank. Oh and with one of these compressors it’s a benefit to have the start-stop pressure pretty high since they work well at high pressures, but make sure your tank won’t explode and such from too much pressure of bad condition.
I considered using a compressor like this before going into HVACR trade but didn't. This is a good idea, but remember the refrigerant isnt just a lubricant, it helps cool it too. This is why one should use this sparingly and in cool environments. There's a thermo over load switch (one you can't get to) that will kick out if it senses too high a temp. Place a bag of Ice on top of the compressor if that happens or just patiently wait for reset and cool down. 😅
I have the same compressor and a random fridge compressor and sitting in my basement, and these were the exact plans i had for it thanks for giving me inspiration
the main noise of the compressor comes from intake, so, I have the idea to submerge the compressor motor into the oil, and use the oil to filter the intake. With this idea it will run more cooler, means more continuous working, and less noise, the oil should suppress de noise. And if the noise suppress fails, just put inside an insulated box, as the oil will cool it.
The only change i'd have tried to make (of course I'm not there and looking at it) is to try to put the compressor on the tank-shelf on top of the tank, and perhaps mount the wiring box outboard with L brackets secured by two of the compressor bolts...just to consolidate the contraption. otherwise I wouldn't change anything. Bonus points for soldering instead of stupid crimp on (or worse heat shrink) butt connectors. solder and heat shrink for the win.
I would have used the fan and condenser in-between the oil separator and the Tank. Added a timed solenoid to open every 5 min for 1 second while the compressor was on to dehumidify the air.
The old motor was in fact a brushed DC motor. Not sure why they didn't use a universal motor though, they run on AC and DC... Then they could have left out the rectifier.
@@BTW... True. I did realise that, copper price eh. Guess the bracket and rectifier were the cheaper option. Extra point of failure goes for both (copper or bridge), so has to be cost savings.
I always thought these compressors were slower but built more pressure? That's a pretty nice build, now I need to find a compressor to mount to my snap on compressor from costco
“How you handle the freon, thats between you and god” hahahahah 🤣🤣🤣
It's only hundreds of times more potent than CO2
The ice in Antarctica is currently the thickest it's ever been. Fyi
@M-mj8bd that's a wild thing to lie about, lol.
@@adnanxm See tony heller here on the tube to finds out who is lying. Guess what, it ain't he. Get a mirror and confess, after watching some tony heller channel here. It's not your fault, they just lie to you.
@shakdidagalimal so your proof is a bunch of easily debunked nonsense by a borderline schizoposter, yea that checks out 😂
I heard if you remove one of those compressor units from an ice chest at your local gas station it will grow back within a couple of days
😂
Not always. Still waiting on ours to grow back so I can adopt a second one but she’s just been sitting there doors wide open for a couple weeks now.
@@LostLeftyLimbHope the smell isn't too bad.
🤣🤣
duuuuuude looooooool
A friend of mine used to be a shop fitter, and he once acquired the compressors from 4 of those 6' long, sliding glass topped display freezers from a large independent store. The store actually PAID him to come and take these working freezers away and scrap them, so he yanked out the compressors to keep, then separated out all the different metals, and weighed it all in at the local metal recyclers to get even more money. So in essence, he'd been paid TWICE for the privilege of being given 4 perfectly usable high capacity freezer compressors. :D
Anyway, he found a broken 3 phase compressor on a 150L tank going for next to nothing on Facebook Marketplace (He weighed in the damaged cast iron pump and motor from that too, so buying the tank also ended up making him money !). He welded up a box section frame and fitted all the pumps to it on rubber mounts, then bolted that to the tank. The interesting bit was that he got a 1 to 4 air hose splitter and mounted 4 adjustable pressure switches on it with each compressor having it's own switch. This meant that first thing he could manually start the compressors one at a time to avoid the huge start-up power spike of all 4 trying to start at once and tripping the breaker. The start/stop pressures were all set slightly different too, so as he used air the compressors would kick in one at a time.
That setup was an absolute beast. The compressors were plumbed into 4 separate tank inlets to avoid unnecessary restrictions, and it had something like a 1.5" ID outlet plumbed directly into his sandblasting cabinet. With all 4 pumps running it could still slowly increase the tanks pressure even WHILE he was constantly using the sandblaster !!! The kicker was that it could do that while making less noise than a Labrador suffering with flatulence ! :D
Was his name Vanessa 🤔 I know him. 😊
@@SeriouslyYo No, sorry mate. My friends called Danial.
I'm quite intrigued about roughly where you are though. Here in the UK the name "Vanessa" is solely a feminine name. Off the top of my head I can't remember hearing of any place where it's also a masculine name. As I said, I'm quite intrigued. Does he shorten it ("Ness" or "Van" maybe?).
I'm not saying your friend did drugs but cocaine is a hell of a drug
That is so the type of total overkill I would love to get into :D.
@@Jo-the-fixer lol too funny😂
I built a similar air compressor a few years ago, I needed a ultra quite compressor for airbrushing in the house and off the shelf ultra quite compressors were more than $800. I bought a brand new 2 gallon compressor on sale for $75 to get a known good pressure vessel, pressure switch and safety blow off valve, and slapped on a salvaged fridge compressor and 1 micron micromist oil/water separator from SMC to get the cleanest driest possible air cost less than $160 to build a compressor i cant even hear running from 2 feet away
Quiet, not "quite".
@@shawbros Blame it on the spell checker!
😃👍
Quite well done actually 😏
I've been using a small hotdog compressor for my laser cutter but hate the noise. I may do this for my laser.
"I don't" at 19:04 made me chuckle. Fun video good job.
Now I can finally use that fridge compressor I have under my workbench for the past 5 years, Earned a sub
I have the same from 10 years ago. Only, it's the spare for my fridge. Dilemma unlocked.
@@malehuman you won't ever need it as a spare, as long as you don't actually use it in another project, you know :D
@@merlozzo truth
You take that out of mine and stuff the bank statement in to make the one you swapped look faulty 🤔
I built one like that 30 years ago with an expired propane tank, set up to run 150psi max. Made a stack rig to put it on an old moving dolly, included hose reel and a rack for air gun, tire chuck, etc.
Every thing else about the same as yours. I used some leftover (new) 5W20 synthetic motor oil and an oil separator with a drain petcock, 500 psi rating. Cheap, quiet, durable. I gave it to my son a few years ago for tires and such, I don't do many projects any more. Used to build and modify hotrods. Very nice to watch a kindred spirit with a similar sense of humor. Thanks very much for the memory jog.
But you say you 22 yesterday 🤔
You one of those generation -x'ers who do this before conception 😜
The oil in the compressor does not always need to be changed:
R12, R600a, R22, R290 - mineral oil - suitable for compressor construction
R134a, R404a, R407c - ester oil - acid forms due to the moisture in the air being sucked in and dissolves the insulation of the motor winding.
You can fill the compressor via the suction line.
I absolutely love the idea of an affordable, small, and most importantly QUIET air compressor! Even better that it's a fairly simple diy project. I am useless when it comes to working on electronics, but i would actually consider making one of these. With it being so quiet, you could even use a bigger tank, as the capacity of the pump matters less when its so quiet. I wouldn't mind this just always being on in the background
A syringe that size is usually used for draining blood and other fluids. They also use them for administration of anesthesia. It takes quite a bit to put someone under. Of course in that situation it’s hooked to the IV in the patient’s arm. Yesterday was the last time we used one that size. An older patient came in with pain and inflammation in his elbow which after the scan it was full of fluid. We used a big needle with the big syringe to safely drain his elbow. Much less invasive than cutting into it. Here’s another use that will make your penis hurt. If you have ever seen warnings on certain pills that say if erection last more than 4 hours see a doctor. Well the treatment for this is one of those syringes with a decent size needle stick it into the penis and drain the blood. I have never seen it before but I have read about this and heard stories from other people. Great video. Huge improvement. I hope my answer was helpful.
Great job. Only suggestion I can think of is braze on a different fitting for the air filter so you can have a larger opening for "suction air". Should air up faster that way.
Just what I was going to say.
Modify an old lawn mower flat air filter and put that in place.
Put a fan on the intake too, then. There's a perfectly fine rectifier available.
"Where are my damn cutters!!" -also me, every time.
The cutters and the 10mm. Always the 10mm.
I found my cutters a year and 10,000 miles later chilling on the undertray of my car. Amazed they were still there given my… ‘spirited’ driving.
You might consider keeping the condenser coil and fan to make dry air. Keeping the reservoir tank dry prevents it rusting out.
I think the rectfier makes DC so the pump can be a cheap 12VDC tire inflator pump.
I have my 3.5 hp compressor running straight into a transmission cooler with a fan and shroud. Air goes in at nearly 300 degrees and comes out closer to 90. Then to an auto drain air dryer before going into the main tank. I have another dryer coming out of the tank but it’s never had anything it. Most of the benefit of Nitrogen filled tires is that it doesn’t hold moisture. If the air going in your tires has less moisture your tire pressure will fluctuates less that it would otherwise. Dry air is the best air
the pump motor is absolutely 12v. I scavenged one off a junk HF pancake compressor. Motor even said 12v DC on it.
I could use one for future projects if someone was willing to part with one. I'd pay shipping.
@@trahar6257That's a myth, nitrogen can be wet (i.e. a mix of nitrogen and water vapor). The nitrogen used for tire inflation has been dried to remove the water.
@@frostbite1991It quite obviously is not a 12v motor otherwise it would be smoked the first time it was switched on. It is a permanent magnet motor (which requires DC) but is rated for line voltage.
I have that exact compressor. You are not kidding about the noise it generates. I completely understand the motivation to do this upgrade.
+
So do I, except mine says McGraw on it. Extremely loud! Why I didn't return it, I don't know. Now I'm stuck with it it. Sell it at a yard sale?
I turn mine on and leave the room while it pressurizes lol
You are like a cross between AvE and This Old Tony and I am so here for that. Subscribed.
If you want some stupidly effective zip-tie cutters, look for the smaller clippers used for pet nail trimming. They have very blunt ends, so you'll never nip anything accidentally, the blades are designed to "scoop" before the snip, and they are incredibly sharp for an effortless action.
The proper tool is a flush cut plier. Why not use the proper tool?
@@HectorFabela-k6u Because I've used them all. Regular electrician's dikes, smaller true flush cutters, and cat nail trimmers. In the case where you're worried about nicking nearby things, the cat nail clippers work better than the other two. They are a fraction of a second slower to use.
I second this. I have a set of cuticle trimmers and a toenail nipper in my tool bag. They are more precision than any wire nipper I’ve ever used because there’s less metal between cutting bevel and face of the nipper.
my father built a massive homemade air compressor for painting cars back in the 1970’s. It ran an antique fridge compressor, via rubber belt and very large electric motor. The tank was around 50 gallon. had moisture trap and regulator. took a few minutes to build pressure, but that thing could run a consistent high pressure and volume for days!
My toxic ADHD trait is that i am 100% convinced i could replicate this after watching it twice, IF i can manage to have it done before getting distracted and moving on to something else.
I mean this is the kinda thing I would expect someone who's been living with ADHD for a while to be able to pull off, tbf.
Also worth noting that I am someone who's been living with ADHD a while, and I constantly forget that the rabbit holes people with ADHD go down aren't necessarily the ones I've gone down, so y'know.. projection disclaimer.
Still, this is a pretty achievable build, and I'm upset because my last job was as a handyman, and I've chucked who knows how many of these pumps after replacing fridges, and I'm sure some of them had working pumps. Couldn't be in the fridge when you bring it to the scrap yard tho, and one of the other comments was talking about lining up 4 of these little pumps, ofsetting their start and stop pressures to prevent amperage spikes, and ending up with a very quiet, high-volume compressor, and I've already got a decent volume tank.
@@LifeInJambles there's an old video somewhere here in youtubeland of a girl doing almost the same thing. she paralleled four cheapo lil retail air compressors together, each with their own little tank. She also adjusted the pressure limits to sequence-cycle the compressors. She used drying media beads to dry the output air tho, those fridge condenser/fan combo bits look ideal to dry the air!
hey, if your throw-away guilt becomes too much, you can always take a ride down to the nearest junkyard/scrapyard and get a little dirty hhaha
Don't have to be toxic. Started my biz of 10yrs with similar situation.
Your comment is my ADHD reality. I have countless unfinished projects that are overwhelming at this point. Was going to say more but zoned out on the video.😂
@@Kirk_Wood lmao, i found water damage under one of my living room windows, opened it up and saw some mold so i started a remediation process. since the wall has no insulation i figured id remove the entire wall. that means window molding. the windows are old so they are also off so i can scrape off the old paint and replace the chains. im trying to find the inspiration to get back to it. my LR is a disaster right now, lol the snowball effect is REAL
doping a flare connection actually lubricates the threads and allows it to loosen over time, dry and to proper torque it'll stay together a lot longer especially w vibration
I had one of the HF compressors that kept destroying the connecting rod bearing on the crank. Finally found that skate board bearings seem to be the proper replacement size. I msut have gone trhough at least 8 bearings before giving up on it.
Its amazing how prevalent skateboard bearings are in tools they are. In everything ive got a few ceramic ones im trying to figure out what to do with
Ahh yes 608z there everywhere.
I found the bearing problem you had is caused by the crank pin not being parallel or the bearing not being in line when in the con rod, this all poor machining by the manufacturer the last common reason, usually where the bearing is held in by a cap, if the bearing is crushed out of round by over tightening.
This editing/shooting style has got some solid This Old Tony going on. Love it.
Not enough time travel for TOT lol. More like AvE
Hi! Nurse here. Those big syringes are for the patients we don't like. The come paired with the bigger needles, too
(Serious answer: Some instances require a lot of fluid for stuff, like flushing urinary catheters or NG tubes. It has a statlock on it, so it is technically compatible with IVs, but I rarely if ever see that much fluid given via syringe.)
Also for draining lungs that have filled with fluid, etc.
I'm getting chills just thinking about getting a couple cc's 😮
i had three of those 60cc luer lock syringes drained off ny knee twice a month for almost a year. trust me you will live these when you need them lol
i used to have one under the counter at the pharmacy for all the addicts who came in and asked for 100cc 12ga syringes (they meant u100 insulin syringes) just so i could have the last laugh
They can be used like a rapid infusion gun for giving a bunch of fluid very quickly to a hypovolemic patient. If you don't have a pressure bag, usually it's easiest to use a BP cuff on the IV bag. But, you could also use one of these syringes. Slam a bunch of Ringer's into an IO and bring a patient back from the dead. 😸
Less portable but way more effective and practically free. Very nice.
Why is it less portable?
@@waltschannel7465 much heavier and bulkier. Also like he said the compressor has a ton of cast iron in it so it's pretty heavy.
@@waltschannel7465 it was made to be carried around with one hand b4 now it's just going to sit on the corner of a shop
NICE!! I am sure this will work with my 8 Gal. Briggs & Stratton oil-less!
It's just basically reusing the tank. There are also videos on making a vacuum pump out of a fridge compressor. Guy made a cool setup to remove your engines oil through the dipstick hole. Sucked out all but maybe 1 oz.! Easy clean up, too.
@12:37 not only is that not a sealing surface, the application of tape or sealing compound can impede the proper tightening of the nut to compress the flare against the cone where the seal needs to actually happen. If anything, a small amount of oil or antiseize to prevent long-term corrosion is preferred. But care must be used to ensure the reduction in friction does not lead to overtightening.
My first job was in a photo lab back when film was used for pictures. The air compressor in that shop sounded just like this compressor. When I got my compressor many years later I never could figure out how they got that film shop compressor so quiet. Its clearly using this type of setup. They should make all compressors this way.
It's more expensive to manufacture (DIY not included, manufacturers can't reliably scavenge old refrigerators) and more maintenance for the end user. People ending up with Harbor Freight compressors ( 🙋) aren't going out of their way to find high quality tools that cost a bit more.
Look into the California Air Tools compressors. They make small ones below 60db
@@OWSNubbles still manufactured in China and the one I have, the wheels constantly fall off and it's not especially quiet. they are nothing special.
Basically every "name brand" makes a "quiet" air compressor now... Even harborfreight, atleast in their twin head designs... Although it's always worth checking the stated DB output! Apparently it seems nearly every name brand considers anything 5-DB quiter than their previously really loud compressors sold for decades as qualified for "quiet" marketing, just because they are slighty quieter, but not even comparable to most twin head truly quiet air compressors... Especially when you start looking at 120v units pushing 4 CFM at 90psi plus (or even SCFM nonsense 😒) Alot of the 70-75db plus belt driven designs come to mind... Yes Dewalt those are quiter than your previous model, but still sound like a Detroit Diesel compared to a true quiet design... (Absolutely NOT the only company using this marketing tactic, but a good example that you can often hear/experience in the wild before buying) Happy tinnitus hunting everyone 👍 🙉
@@instazx2 Window air conditioners aren't that expensive even brand new and have much more powerful, more reliable compressors than refrigerators anywhere near the same price range. Some of these refrigeration/AC compressors are also rated at FAR higher air pressures at the outlet than most working men would be comfortable being near. It would cost more than the weak little airhorns in cheap air compressors, but not exorbitantly more.
We've got chemistry here. Can you feel it?
I felt it!
All right Janice.
You got to the bridge rectifier and that’s where I’d have completely tangented off into oblivion, wake up days later like oh yeah, flat tire
I do it w/o making a video.....
I use a bike pump....
For making the flare,use the thickness of a nickel placed flat on the flaring tool and bring the tubing out that far to have the right amount sticking out to make the flare.
Love it! I have that compressor but dislike using it because of the noise. Now I just need to find a curbside junk compressor.
People give away fridges all the time on Facebook Marketplace.
Use JB Weld around the threads to seal leaking threads, doesn't matter if it's the original or quick weld. Just make sure that it fully cures BEFORE putting any pressure on it!!
I considered solder as well, but decided against anything permanent to make any future repairs easier.
JB-Weld is overkill -and its cure quality has gone to hell.- Just use blue threadlocker, also from Harbor Freight. I use it on all my air fittings.
Dude, awesome work. I have the 21 gallon tank version of this and now want to fix it's noise level. Too bad I didn't know about this when I replaced my fridge a few months ago.
Great video. I've been saving an old compressor from a commercial ice machine for a couple years with the intent to do something like this. If you swap the inlet and outlet of the compressor you have created a vacuum freon recovery system with a built in storage tank. Thx for the video.
Should've kept the condenser and fan to cool the air between the compressor and tank.
A raincoat is never necessary but sometimes it should be worn.
I agree. I was waiting for that but it never happened. Free air cooler !
On the other hand it is a 3 gal. tank so, probably not used for much other than a pin nailer or tire pump.
I'd still have liked to have seen it.
The drain value being miles away from the bottom of the tank is a bigger problem to my mind.
@@mrgoodman6620 how do you calculate the "drain value"?
This video came across my feed. Watching it, and you Sir, at 4:20 just earned a subscription from me. Frozen Reese's are the way to go, nothing beats it.
I like what you did there. My chief complaint as a hobbyist is that a compressor like that is too loud but has good volume for an airbrush and most airbrush compressors are more expensive than the harbor freight model you just upgraded. I'm not saying I'm cheap, but I'd definitely consider this before paying for another airbrush compressor because this has more uses AND can run my brush
Dude I hope your channel blows up.... Your videos are pretty d@mn good
The factory oil recharge for that compressor is 384ml. Dry is 440ml.
Can you provide your resources?
@@inkrpen Google search the model # on the Google Watch the video for the model #
Close enough.
@@inkrpen copeland app
warning get a really good pressure releif valve those fridge compressors go up to 500psi that will blow that tank right up so use a couple of them one on the tank and or one on the valve assembly.. also your going to want to make sure the tube is long going into the tank why fridge compressors are bathed in oil and shoot out oil on the discharge so you might want to use a vaopr canister or oil catch before it goes into the red tank and a way to refill it back into the compressor you can get wisper quiet compressors now anyway california air makes a small one and harbor frieght now makes a really good one its really quiet and no fridge compressor
He is using an inline filter on the compressor discharge line and I didn't notice any oil build up in it. Maybe time will tell.
@reggiebannister1080 I blew up a 350PSI gauge in a moment of 10sec, (R-134 1/3HP compressor), by errantly hooking the low gauge to the high side, of a high side restricted system. It just went right on up up up without any struggle, no straining, no squealing. If the scavenged compressor was originally a R-404 or R-502, or R-22 system, the internal bypass may go past 500+. If it is gummed up from previous contaminated operation or rusted, It may be seized and not operational at all.
@@BTW... That is true, but these parts must be in good working order as this type of motor is capable of much more output than the original design. Safety - safety - safety. Many handypersons remove stuff they do not understand and create dangerous situations for themselves and others around them. These pumps are capable of possibly 500psi. That is serious pressure!
@@BTW... I never said that, implied that, confirmed that, or approved of that, (Plastic oil separator, Fit for Purpose, etc.) you must be quoting someone else...Sorry. Maybe talk to Journeyman53 about your concerns about his comments?
I'm planning on having 2 pressure relive valves on mine. I don't trust Chinese made pressure relief valves as a safety device. But its unlikely 2 would both fail shut, so hopefully 1 of them will still be creational worse case scenario. Do not want a 500psi bawmb going off in a small garage
I used one of those self tapping screws...it was the very short 1/2" one...drilled a hole in the bottom to drain the oil, then put 10w-30 motor oil (so later on I can just unscrew that bolt and replace the oil with regularity)...but that harbor freight oil would be much better (non-detergent oil)
I put 2oz...or 1/4 cup...those little compressors don't use alot...and will blow it out until it's at the right level
oh..another thing...a good 1/4oz of MotorKote will help the compressor on dry starts
Very very very cool!
Its 36 volt dc. I use one in my truck. It runs on an inverter from a 12 volt powered relay on the pressure sw.
well, now i want to run one off of two 18v drill batteries.... hmmm...
@@30CalCoreLokt the original compressor is 36 volt.
@@robertdinicola9225 18+18, right? How are you running yours off a 12v battery?
@@30CalCoreLokt sorry. The motor is 36vdc. Thete is a rectifier under the cover. It still uses 120 but im controling it from the cab with a dc relay from the cab. Control side is 12v but switched is in the dc side of the bridge rectifier to switch from the cab.
@@robertdinicola9225 I think I understand, but I might be stupid. Couldn't I just use 36v to run the whole unit?
I would have tried to mount the tank on the base where the compressor was… then the compressor on top of the tank… used the condenser and condenser fan as a cooler for the air to remove moisture, then back to the tank. I may have to try this if I find a used refrigeration system. Cool build!! Thanks. 🙂👍🏻👍🏻
I inherited a flaring tool, but I had no idea what it was or how to use it... til now. Thanks loads!
Pretty cool idea. It’s not very portable but if you’ve got a mini compressor for space reasons and you don’t lug it around too often this would be a really kick ass upgrade. At first I was a little apprehensive because I was scared of what would happen if the pressure switch failed but a quick google search seems to indicate that a compressor of that type probably won’t make much over 200 if that so I felt quite a bit better after reading that. Thanks for posting 👍
The harbor freight tank has a built in safety pop off
You should always have a safety pop off valve in your tank plumbing. ALWAYS. That's its core purpose. Should the cutoff switch fail, it (if designed correctly) will go off around 10% above the pressure cutoff (usually set near or at the tanks' rated working pressure). This is also generally designed to be a fraction of the tanks rated maximum pressure for safety margin.
So even if it goes over working pressure by 15 or 25%, you're still safe because the tank typically is rated for up to 3/3.5 times the working pressure (depending if the tanks are ASME code compliant or not). It's not meant to run at the maximum pressure, hence why "working pressure" exists, but it can be overshot slightly in adverse operation without causing serious issues.
I really appreciate it, and I love your channel, but I would appreciate an up-front list of all the stuff you will use. There are a lot of parts to know about.
I dunno, I used to thrive on video, but this is a huge project so having things written would be super convenient.
For my second compressor I bought a larger 20 gal with a belt run pump ($4-500 range, but it had good performance numbers and relatively quiet. Plus I later augmented my fixed air lines with an additional removable tank).
I got really annoyed with the water that would come out of the system, more cause I didn’t want it to go into my tires, but also my tools, so I got a cheap (I think it was like $15?) transmission cooler, got the appropriate copper tubing & a decent filter and threw that all between the pump and the tank. Positioned the cooler in front of the belt guard which is in front of the fan that runs off the motor and viola.
Pulls lots, dare I say effectively all detectable?, water from the compressed air & cools the charged air down so it’s even denser in the tank.
Didn’t take long, wasn’t expensive (most expensive part was the filter/ / air/water separator - scoured eBay for a while looking for a good enough one that was heavily discounted) & keeps my lines & tanks virtually moisture free (some builds up, but only after a lotttt of use). It’s awesome.
Always wanted a faster pump without breaking the bank. Will have to check out some fridge compressors - thanks!
Maybe you can keep the condenser and condenser fan from the old fridge. A window AC may work better for this purpose...maybe keep the evaporator as well in series with the condenser and a trap at the end to drain water.
This is great! I run laser engravers that use an air compressor to keep smoke and debris out of the laser nozzle, and this will make the shop so much more bearable with how quite it is. I think I'll keep the condenser to cool the air and help pull moisture out of the charge
Only thing I would have changed is mounting the compressor on the other side. That would have gave easy access to the drain and prevented issues with the hose interfering with the supply line. Also would have made the exposed wiring less. Excess to the compressor could have been shortened or looped in the box.
old video but that rectifier is indeed for the compressor motor, that looks to me like a brushed motor and while they *can* run on AC as seen in so called universal motors of vacuum cleaners and corded drills, theres no stator winding on that one from what i can tell so it only can run off DC (as with a stator magnet the commutator flips the AC rapidly but itll never sync up with a magnet while a stator winding will be in sync as in the stator field is opposing to the rotor field)
why they used that instead of an induction motor i honestly have no clue, perhaps since it has to be so small and also spin really fast, induction motors are big if they need torque, the kinda motor youd see on a furnace blower or large air compressor instead
nice1. I wouldn't trust myself to not mess it up and have the thing go kabooom!!! LOL
Speaking of kaboom, fridge compressors are capable of much higher pressure than a cheap air compressor. Be sure to set the pressure switch accordingly and consider adding a high pressure blowout plug as well.
I was under the impression that those compressors were higher pressure, but very slow. Hmm, Maybe I could do this with a slightly larger tank and 2 compressors running in parallel for increased CFM. Love the video. You gained a sub. :)
2 compressors = 2x amperage draw
Find the biggest 120v appliance like an ice machine that pulls as close to 15amps and that should be the biggest rated compressor of this type. I used one from an Ice machine.
@@DimMakTen True! But where are you going to find a perfectly good ice machine that nobody wants, just to scavenge a compressor from. Ice machines usually run A LOT!, refrigerators run about 30-50% on-off, but ice runs about 80% on, that is a lot more wear and tear on the valves before the total machine failed. Not impossible, just don't be holding your breath.
@@johnrussell6620 not as easy to find as a fridge, i was just explaining how i found about as much compressor as you can get on 120v
@@DimMakTen True, The compressor in the OP's project already runs at about 9-10A, and 50A during start, Not a lot of margin for a bigger compressor unless you go with a 20A breaker, wire, and outlet dedicated, as ICE is supposed to be on a dedicated circuit because of the electrical demand. 100% run should only consume 80% of available electrical capacity, preferably less.
When tapping metric threads, you can take the thread size minus the thread pitch. So in this case you had an m10 by 1,0 so 10-1,0=9.
Well math nerd no one in the US has metric drill bits. So that does us no good. Apparently 9mm is between an S and a T drill bit.
You know, the raw commentary alone.....that earned you another subscriber
I'd consider extending the drain for even easier access.
The drain valve is off center.
You will have a permanent puddle in the tank that can't drain unless you tilt it while draining.
That's not his design. That's the way they come.
I don't think the creator of this contraption cares
my 6gal ridgid the same way, idk why they did that
Those big syringes are used for medical syringe pumps, when you need a slow and steady dose over time. It’s coupled to an iv-line, for example running iv anaesthesia during an operation or epinephrine in the ICU
That is awesome. I have one of these and I think I’m gonna be looking for an old rich or freezer. Thanks for the idea.
Those syringes are used for "irrigation" with saline solution most of the time, so you used it with solvent to do the same thing to the compressor motor.
We don’t have Harbor Freight in Canada, we have Princess Auto. I just happen to have a dead PA compressor in the garage that I now know what to do with. Thanks!!!
USA here. What do you think of Canadian Tire? They sound, to me, like a cross between Walmart and an auto parts store.
@@BakedRBeans That’s a perfect description. They also have mechanic bays…
You had me @ the frozen PB cups. Well done, man. Well. Done. Oh yeah, *and the build. My tinkering cockles are awakened.
A bit of a problem is freon(oid) piston compressors have no rings on piston and work ok because of high tolerances in a closed system but if you introduce not perfectly filtered air and air (containing humidity) will fail pretty soon. Non reciprocating compressors are even worse when it comes to this...
Add a toolbox seat on top of it! Great job!
Ahhh I should’ve built the whole thing under a shop stool! Missed opportunity.
Perfect use for that old window AC unit whose fan motor went out years ago (but the compressor still runs) that's been sitting out back of my garden shed ever since. See? I knew it would be useful someday.
I put large self tapping screws with rubber gaskets on top and bottom of mine. It makes oil changes easy.
And a larger air filter probably wouldn't hurt.
the motor runs on dc so the compressor needs a full bridge rectifier to run it you can tell (most of the time) whether a motor is ac or dc by how many wires it has going to it and the color of the wires, a dc compressor should only have two wires going to it, one black and one red
Bloody hell! Entertaining and dropping some decent tips, just got yourself a new sub bud.
My first run as amedical first responder was for a patient with diabetes and she looked dead. Paramedics took a huge syringe like that and injected a sugar solution directly into her stomach. She woke up in a very short time swinging and it was like a miracle to me!
F-yeah, my brutha with the frozen peanut butter cups!
I keep a bag of miniatures in the freezer year round.
Yum yum
9:03 nurse here answering your question. When the patient is being rude… 😂 other reasons include accurate measurements when mixing certain things, filling up medical devices, irrigating wounds, suctioning or aspirating stuff like clogged airways…
That rocket blast at the end was LIT!
Just subscribed!
I have an old school Craftsman compressor that I bought at Sears, long before they sold the Craftsman name. It is VERY similar to this one, and I might have to give this mod a shot.
...we do have universal 220vac in the US...
Single phase is 240V today but who's counting?
Wouldnt have ever thought to use a fridge compressor for an air pump... not like they are much different, good work, now i feel like i need to do this to my hazar fart compressor
Here in Australia, we have tools in both imperial and metric systems. To be honest its actually handy having both (as I work on truck exhausts - we have a lot of Kenworth trucks here)
Also I know you stated this modification is silly but as someone who does a lot of air brushing indoors I absolutely love this idea
in 10 minutes runtime on mine, i had burned up the switch, popped the odd ac to dc rectifer, lost a total of 3 THREE thhe- reee crimp spade connectors that caused one wire to short 120v ac to bare metal (aka red powdercoating) and after fixing, it got so hot in the cylinder that friction coating rubbed off and went immediately to zero compression.
i got a aftermarket WARN mini compressor for locking air differentials, mounted it and added a powerful fan and set cutoff/ on to 120psi/150psi. 3 years nonstop use and perfectly good. the tank itself is thick with excellent welds, rated at 500psi burst and 300psi max.
The original compressor sounds exactly like the little 12 volt DC tire compressor in my car which is powered through a cigarette lighter power plug.
Interesting to say the least but not enough displacement to run just about anything i use, but you have given me the idea to possibly make a vacuum pump thanks:)
"We've got chemistry, did you feel it? I felt it! Alright Janice!" 😂
I tore apart a similar compressor many moons ago to make a pneumatic potato gun. It was a Husky and had a rectifier too, the motor was 120v DC!
We use those large syringes many things but often for medications or flush feeding tubes for patients who can't swallow via G tube. Gastronomy tubes are an intervention where a tube goes directly to the stomach through the abdomen
Mine has been a dependable workhorse for over a decade. Zero complaints.
I rofl'd at 16:30
"Oh, herro". Team America will live on forever :)
I bought a Milwaukee compressor that runs on a power tool battery and that thing will fill a tire pretty fast. I think they have two and I got the bigger rectangle one. It’s awesome at filling tires!
You could have kept the condenser.
Plumping the compressor discharge into it and then the outlet into automatic drain, water air separator you can get slightly more capacity as arriving air won't be hot and water would automatically get separated giving you cold dry air.
Cool project! You could leave the condenser and fan for even more performance cooling the charged air. Has its trade offs though, I get that.
I like how the lights flicker when it clicks on
Looks like you gonna have to increase the airflow to roll around on that, maybe if you boosted with your chair-compressor outlet at the same time.
Also when I built mine a few years ago it also squealed “a bit”, but as I recall it became quieter after stretching out the spring a bit making it quicker/tighter and it’d only make a little sound when first filling the empty tank.
Oh and with one of these compressors it’s a benefit to have the start-stop pressure pretty high since they work well at high pressures, but make sure your tank won’t explode and such from too much pressure of bad condition.
Makes me wonder why they don't make compressors like this in the first place.
the answer starts with M and ends with ONEY
I considered using a compressor like this before going into HVACR trade but didn't.
This is a good idea, but remember the refrigerant isnt just a lubricant, it helps cool it too. This is why one should use this sparingly and in cool environments. There's a thermo over load switch (one you can't get to) that will kick out if it senses too high a temp. Place a bag of Ice on top of the compressor if that happens or just patiently wait for reset and cool down. 😅
I used to use one of those for airbrushing. It was great to run at 2am, and not disturb anyone in the house.
I have the same compressor and a random fridge compressor and sitting in my basement, and these were the exact plans i had for it thanks for giving me inspiration
the main noise of the compressor comes from intake, so, I have the idea to submerge the compressor motor into the oil, and use the oil to filter the intake.
With this idea it will run more cooler, means more continuous working, and less noise, the oil should suppress de noise.
And if the noise suppress fails, just put inside an insulated box, as the oil will cool it.
That compressor has seen way too much use stock. Good on you man. Good on you.
The only change i'd have tried to make (of course I'm not there and looking at it) is to try to put the compressor on the tank-shelf on top of the tank, and perhaps mount the wiring box outboard with L brackets secured by two of the compressor bolts...just to consolidate the contraption. otherwise I wouldn't change anything. Bonus points for soldering instead of stupid crimp on (or worse heat shrink) butt connectors. solder and heat shrink for the win.
I would have used the fan and condenser in-between the oil separator and the Tank. Added a timed solenoid to open every 5 min for 1 second while the compressor was on to dehumidify the air.
3:28 OMG he played a clip from my favorite commercial ever...Smart Beep Blind Date....I FELT IT!
The old motor was in fact a brushed DC motor. Not sure why they didn't use a universal motor though, they run on AC and DC... Then they could have left out the rectifier.
@@BTW...
True. I did realise that, copper price eh. Guess the bracket and rectifier were the cheaper option. Extra point of failure goes for both (copper or bridge), so has to be cost savings.
I always thought these compressors were slower but built more pressure? That's a pretty nice build, now I need to find a compressor to mount to my snap on compressor from costco
There's a Wendy's in Leeds, UK so we have the baconator also.