@@adnanxm See tony heller here on the tube to finds out who is lying. Guess what, it ain't he. Get a mirror and confess, after watching some tony heller channel here. It's not your fault, they just lie to you.
Hi! Nurse here. Those big syringes are for the patients we don't like. The come paired with the bigger needles, too (Serious answer: Some instances require a lot of fluid for stuff, like flushing urinary catheters or NG tubes. It has a statlock on it, so it is technically compatible with IVs, but I rarely if ever see that much fluid given via syringe.)
i used to have one under the counter at the pharmacy for all the addicts who came in and asked for 100cc 12ga syringes (they meant u100 insulin syringes) just so i could have the last laugh
I absolutely love the idea of an affordable, small, and most importantly QUIET air compressor! Even better that it's a fairly simple diy project. I am useless when it comes to working on electronics, but i would actually consider making one of these. With it being so quiet, you could even use a bigger tank, as the capacity of the pump matters less when its so quiet. I wouldn't mind this just always being on in the background
You might consider keeping the condenser coil and fan to make dry air. Keeping the reservoir tank dry prevents it rusting out. I think the rectfier makes DC so the pump can be a cheap 12VDC tire inflator pump.
I have my 3.5 hp compressor running straight into a transmission cooler with a fan and shroud. Air goes in at nearly 300 degrees and comes out closer to 90. Then to an auto drain air dryer before going into the main tank. I have another dryer coming out of the tank but it’s never had anything it. Most of the benefit of Nitrogen filled tires is that it doesn’t hold moisture. If the air going in your tires has less moisture your tire pressure will fluctuates less that it would otherwise. Dry air is the best air
@@trahar6257That's a myth, nitrogen can be wet (i.e. a mix of nitrogen and water vapor). The nitrogen used for tire inflation has been dried to remove the water.
@@frostbite1991It quite obviously is not a 12v motor otherwise it would be smoked the first time it was switched on. It is a permanent magnet motor (which requires DC) but is rated for line voltage.
Pretty cool idea. It’s not very portable but if you’ve got a mini compressor for space reasons and you don’t lug it around too often this would be a really kick ass upgrade. At first I was a little apprehensive because I was scared of what would happen if the pressure switch failed but a quick google search seems to indicate that a compressor of that type probably won’t make much over 200 if that so I felt quite a bit better after reading that. Thanks for posting 👍
I built a similar air compressor a few years ago, I needed a ultra quite compressor for airbrushing in the house and off the shelf ultra quite compressors were more than $800. I bought a brand new 2 gallon compressor on sale for $75 to get a known good pressure vessel, pressure switch and safety blow off valve, and slapped on a salvaged fridge compressor and 1 micron micromist oil/water separator from SMC to get the cleanest driest possible air cost less than $160 to build a compressor i cant even hear running from 2 feet away
Great job. Only suggestion I can think of is braze on a different fitting for the air filter so you can have a larger opening for "suction air". Should air up faster that way.
Use JB Weld around the threads to seal leaking threads, doesn't matter if it's the original or quick weld. Just make sure that it fully cures BEFORE putting any pressure on it!!
If you want some stupidly effective zip-tie cutters, look for the smaller clippers used for pet nail trimming. They have very blunt ends, so you'll never nip anything accidentally, the blades are designed to "scoop" before the snip, and they are incredibly sharp for an effortless action.
@@user-lm9gs5vt1q Because I've used them all. Regular electrician's dikes, smaller true flush cutters, and cat nail trimmers. In the case where you're worried about nicking nearby things, the cat nail clippers work better than the other two. They are a fraction of a second slower to use.
The Freon trademark is not specific to R12, it is for all of their fluorinated hydrocarbons. They also have Suva (and others), and appear to use it interchangeably on DuPont's various websites. They list R-134a as Freon 134a and Suva 134a.
I was under the impression that those compressors were higher pressure, but very slow. Hmm, Maybe I could do this with a slightly larger tank and 2 compressors running in parallel for increased CFM. Love the video. You gained a sub. :)
Find the biggest 120v appliance like an ice machine that pulls as close to 15amps and that should be the biggest rated compressor of this type. I used one from an Ice machine.
@@DimMakTen31 True! But where are you going to find a perfectly good ice machine that nobody wants, just to scavenge a compressor from. Ice machines usually run A LOT!, refrigerators run about 30-50% on-off, but ice runs about 80% on, that is a lot more wear and tear on the valves before the total machine failed. Not impossible, just don't be holding your breath.
@@DimMakTen31 True, The compressor in the OP's project already runs at about 9-10A, and 50A during start, Not a lot of margin for a bigger compressor unless you go with a 20A breaker, wire, and outlet dedicated, as ICE is supposed to be on a dedicated circuit because of the electrical demand. 100% run should only consume 80% of available electrical capacity, preferably less.
I used one of those self tapping screws...it was the very short 1/2" one...drilled a hole in the bottom to drain the oil, then put 10w-30 motor oil (so later on I can just unscrew that bolt and replace the oil with regularity)...but that harbor freight oil would be much better (non-detergent oil) I put 2oz...or 1/4 cup...those little compressors don't use alot...and will blow it out until it's at the right level oh..another thing...a good 1/4oz of MotorKote will help the compressor on dry starts Very very very cool!
That must be the same check valve they put in some of the trailers I pull. Have had many customers ask why there is an alarm going off on the trailer 😂
9:37 Caution! Stuffing a fat wallet in any pocket will eventually mess up your hips and back. Ironically, it's the diagonal opposite area that goes. So, your left rear wallet stuff will result in right hip pain. I was a left front guy and buggered my right sciatic nerve and butt. My dad was a right rear guy and had left hip trouble. His chiropractor clued us in and now I get to tell you. I now mix it up when I have to and carry when I can.
My first job was in a photo lab back when film was used for pictures. The air compressor in that shop sounded just like this compressor. When I got my compressor many years later I never could figure out how they got that film shop compressor so quiet. Its clearly using this type of setup. They should make all compressors this way.
It's more expensive to manufacture (DIY not included, manufacturers can't reliably scavenge old refrigerators) and more maintenance for the end user. People ending up with Harbor Freight compressors ( 🙋) aren't going out of their way to find high quality tools that cost a bit more.
Those big syringes are used for medical syringe pumps, when you need a slow and steady dose over time. It’s coupled to an iv-line, for example running iv anaesthesia during an operation or epinephrine in the ICU
For my second compressor I bought a larger 20 gal with a belt run pump ($4-500 range, but it had good performance numbers and relatively quiet. Plus I later augmented my fixed air lines with an additional removable tank). I got really annoyed with the water that would come out of the system, more cause I didn’t want it to go into my tires, but also my tools, so I got a cheap (I think it was like $15?) transmission cooler, got the appropriate copper tubing & a decent filter and threw that all between the pump and the tank. Positioned the cooler in front of the belt guard which is in front of the fan that runs off the motor and viola. Pulls lots, dare I say effectively all detectable?, water from the compressed air & cools the charged air down so it’s even denser in the tank. Didn’t take long, wasn’t expensive (most expensive part was the filter/ / air/water separator - scoured eBay for a while looking for a good enough one that was heavily discounted) & keeps my lines & tanks virtually moisture free (some builds up, but only after a lotttt of use). It’s awesome. Always wanted a faster pump without breaking the bank. Will have to check out some fridge compressors - thanks!
Maybe you can keep the condenser and condenser fan from the old fridge. A window AC may work better for this purpose...maybe keep the evaporator as well in series with the condenser and a trap at the end to drain water.
I have the same compressor and a random fridge compressor and sitting in my basement, and these were the exact plans i had for it thanks for giving me inspiration
warning get a really good pressure releif valve those fridge compressors go up to 500psi that will blow that tank right up so use a couple of them one on the tank and or one on the valve assembly.. also your going to want to make sure the tube is long going into the tank why fridge compressors are bathed in oil and shoot out oil on the discharge so you might want to use a vaopr canister or oil catch before it goes into the red tank and a way to refill it back into the compressor you can get wisper quiet compressors now anyway california air makes a small one and harbor frieght now makes a really good one its really quiet and no fridge compressor
How many cfm do u get and can it power a paint gun my crafts man barely dose, it can spray for 6 to 10 seconds before having to stop spraying, to alow air to recharge
You said: "The current rating of a conductor is based on it's size AND it's length" That is not exactly true. You'll still heat up the conductor wire the same with the excess current, but there will be somewhat less voltage drop over the length of the conductor. 16 gauge should be good for say 10 Amps though.
Speaking of kaboom, fridge compressors are capable of much higher pressure than a cheap air compressor. Be sure to set the pressure switch accordingly and consider adding a high pressure blowout plug as well.
Just wondering how well this held up. I tried this a long while ago, but it locked up after a few months. I really liked having a small, silent compressor like this, so maybe I'll make another one with a larger compressor.
old video but that rectifier is indeed for the compressor motor, that looks to me like a brushed motor and while they *can* run on AC as seen in so called universal motors of vacuum cleaners and corded drills, theres no stator winding on that one from what i can tell so it only can run off DC (as with a stator magnet the commutator flips the AC rapidly but itll never sync up with a magnet while a stator winding will be in sync as in the stator field is opposing to the rotor field)
why they used that instead of an induction motor i honestly have no clue, perhaps since it has to be so small and also spin really fast, induction motors are big if they need torque, the kinda motor youd see on a furnace blower or large air compressor instead
I wonder how well a window unit compressor would fare. Have a newer HF 3gal pancake that is also ungodly loud and inefficient that i keep in my car and run off an inverter on occasion.
if you run the air through the fridge coils and then the water separator then the tank, you wouldn't have to worry about water accumulation in the tank. you would need a much better separator though
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 Not exactly...The system equalizes while the unit is off. Equal pressure on both sides, (inlet vs outlet) is the same as starting at 0 psi. Your unit has a hard start system...2 capacitors, 1-Start, 1-Run and a relay to switch them in and out as needed. Apparently it will start against 80psi if you continue to use the factory pressure switch.. The pressure valves you are referring to simply promote forward progress of the original freon, now compressed air.
If anybody needs more CFM than this will provide, then use an air conditioning compressor. You might even be able to use the housing for a neat package. I would recommend plumbing the air that comes out of the compressor through one of the condensers or evaporators for extra cooling.
Air conditioning compressors are mostly 220v, just as big as a conventional compressor, need a larger tank to be useful and become very immovable by the time you are done.
@@johnrussell6620 that is true that many air conditioners are heavy and require 220 volts. But there are also smaller units that run on 120 volts. I have a 5000 BTU unit that would be perfect for air compressor use.
@@COBARHORSE1 The RST40 in this video has 3500BTU at 20Deg, and probably has 4000-4500 if it was in an A/C running at 40Deg, so your 5000btu A/C would only be 15-25% bigger, counting and comparing BTU's as a common comparison factor. I'm not saying you are wrong, I'm saying there is not that much advantage. Why disassemble a perfectly good small window A/C? Why expect a faulty window A/C to function at peak efficiency to deliver more than the OP's 4000-ish BTU's of capacity. on the other hand, rip apart a 12000, or a 15000 BTU 120v 20A A/C and lug that compressor around...
I need that rubber check valve for my own 3 gallon Canadian Tire compressor made by the same company. Mine is malformed and leaks. I looked everywhere for parts but nobody sells it. Can you mail it to me?
The noise on these compressors has always seemed ridiculous to me! Why is every air compressor a huge pain in the ear?! I have access to a supply of refrigeration and even large AC compressors, so I'm totally going to make this upgrade!
@@Rudy97 Let’s say the tire you want to inflate needs more air that the tank can supply. The compressor would restart while still connected to the partly pressurized tire (this actually happened in the video). Another scenario would be if you want to run an air tool. There you want a somewhat constant pressure in the tank so the pump needs to kick in before the air has completely run out. Therefore every commercially available air compressor that uses an induction motor has a device that vents the pressure from the line between the pump and the tank so the motor doesn‘t have to fight the pressure in the tank immediately after restarting.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 Not exactly...The system equalizes while the unit is off. Equal pressure on both sides, (inlet vs outlet) is the same as starting at 0 psi. Your experimentation will reveal if it will start against 80psi if you continue to use the factory pressure switch.. The pressure valves you are referring to simply promote forward progress of the original freon, now compressed air.
I don't want to make this weird, but I *REALLY* enjoy your videos. Really great stuff. Can we hang out? FYI, visitation days are Tuesday and Thursday from 10-2.
5x 60ml syringes were used by my nurse to draw blood used for a procedure that required a large amount of my blood plasma, that’s at least one application 🤷
That’s a terrible idea in terms of general usefulness, but a wonderful idea as a stationary compressor with a large tank, lower draw, and low noise is paramount.
At 21:45, you have the start pack laying horizontal, originally it was mounted vertical. The white box relay is sensitive to being "CORRECT SIDE UP". If you take the screw out, you can read the label. I know it has been a year now and the world has not ended, but, It is a precision balanced relay contact that no longer has an accurate reference to earths' gravity. It may function(appear to function) but it is not functioning as it was designed. Remount it to the vertical side to the right of the screen/image. 2 precision holes required to remount and to prevent it from getting cocked to 1 side or the other. Just copy the original holes.
FFL and MFL fittings, also work on Co2 systems for a homebrewer's kegerator. (See if you can guess who used a set of HVAC gauges on his kegerator.) Also, in my old house AC compressor leaked out all its freon. Let's try using R-600 instead of the R-20 in it. You can get BBQ grade R-600 at Home D, in 15 pound refillable bottles. Little over $20. Had to refill about 6 times that summer, but here in Phoenix, we survived. Landlord replaced the AC in the fall, when they were a LOT cheaper. steve
R600 is Isobutane, it is flammable/explosive, do not do this! R-600 is not 'BBQ Gas'! Rechargeable cigarette lighters are R-600....R-290 is propane, propane is "BBQ Gas", do not do this!! it is flammable/explosive, do not do this!. Refrigeration systems that are engineer for and do use R-290 only have 2oz, 3oz max 5oz of refrigerant and if it managed to leak it would only cause a small localized explosion, 5lb of propane leaking could explode your entire house! it is flammable/explosive, do not do this!
Curiously interesting But IMO a KOMPLETE waste of time. Price of ALL the bits 'n pieces coupled with the price of the Original compressor and You Should have bought a larger More capable compressor . And Not have wasted the Time / Work and Effort running around buying the various bits AND Making it all work. As a large ugly Contraption
“How you handle the freon, thats between you and god” hahahahah 🤣🤣🤣
It's only hundreds of times more potent than CO2
The ice in Antarctica is currently the thickest it's ever been. Fyi
@M-mj8bd that's a wild thing to lie about, lol.
@@adnanxm See tony heller here on the tube to finds out who is lying. Guess what, it ain't he. Get a mirror and confess, after watching some tony heller channel here. It's not your fault, they just lie to you.
@shakdidagalimal so your proof is a bunch of easily debunked nonsense by a borderline schizoposter, yea that checks out 😂
Hi! Nurse here. Those big syringes are for the patients we don't like. The come paired with the bigger needles, too
(Serious answer: Some instances require a lot of fluid for stuff, like flushing urinary catheters or NG tubes. It has a statlock on it, so it is technically compatible with IVs, but I rarely if ever see that much fluid given via syringe.)
Also for draining lungs that have filled with fluid, etc.
I'm getting chills just thinking about getting a couple cc's 😮
i had three of those 60cc luer lock syringes drained off ny knee twice a month for almost a year. trust me you will live these when you need them lol
i used to have one under the counter at the pharmacy for all the addicts who came in and asked for 100cc 12ga syringes (they meant u100 insulin syringes) just so i could have the last laugh
Now I can finally use that fridge compressor I have under my workbench for the past 5 years, Earned a sub
I absolutely love the idea of an affordable, small, and most importantly QUIET air compressor! Even better that it's a fairly simple diy project. I am useless when it comes to working on electronics, but i would actually consider making one of these. With it being so quiet, you could even use a bigger tank, as the capacity of the pump matters less when its so quiet. I wouldn't mind this just always being on in the background
"Where are my damn cutters!!" -also me, every time.
You might consider keeping the condenser coil and fan to make dry air. Keeping the reservoir tank dry prevents it rusting out.
I think the rectfier makes DC so the pump can be a cheap 12VDC tire inflator pump.
I have my 3.5 hp compressor running straight into a transmission cooler with a fan and shroud. Air goes in at nearly 300 degrees and comes out closer to 90. Then to an auto drain air dryer before going into the main tank. I have another dryer coming out of the tank but it’s never had anything it. Most of the benefit of Nitrogen filled tires is that it doesn’t hold moisture. If the air going in your tires has less moisture your tire pressure will fluctuates less that it would otherwise. Dry air is the best air
the pump motor is absolutely 12v. I scavenged one off a junk HF pancake compressor. Motor even said 12v DC on it.
I could use one for future projects if someone was willing to part with one. I'd pay shipping.
@@trahar6257That's a myth, nitrogen can be wet (i.e. a mix of nitrogen and water vapor). The nitrogen used for tire inflation has been dried to remove the water.
@@frostbite1991It quite obviously is not a 12v motor otherwise it would be smoked the first time it was switched on. It is a permanent magnet motor (which requires DC) but is rated for line voltage.
Pretty cool idea. It’s not very portable but if you’ve got a mini compressor for space reasons and you don’t lug it around too often this would be a really kick ass upgrade. At first I was a little apprehensive because I was scared of what would happen if the pressure switch failed but a quick google search seems to indicate that a compressor of that type probably won’t make much over 200 if that so I felt quite a bit better after reading that. Thanks for posting 👍
I built a similar air compressor a few years ago, I needed a ultra quite compressor for airbrushing in the house and off the shelf ultra quite compressors were more than $800. I bought a brand new 2 gallon compressor on sale for $75 to get a known good pressure vessel, pressure switch and safety blow off valve, and slapped on a salvaged fridge compressor and 1 micron micromist oil/water separator from SMC to get the cleanest driest possible air cost less than $160 to build a compressor i cant even hear running from 2 feet away
Great job. Only suggestion I can think of is braze on a different fitting for the air filter so you can have a larger opening for "suction air". Should air up faster that way.
Dude I hope your channel blows up.... Your videos are pretty d@mn good
Use JB Weld around the threads to seal leaking threads, doesn't matter if it's the original or quick weld. Just make sure that it fully cures BEFORE putting any pressure on it!!
I considered solder as well, but decided against anything permanent to make any future repairs easier.
If you want some stupidly effective zip-tie cutters, look for the smaller clippers used for pet nail trimming. They have very blunt ends, so you'll never nip anything accidentally, the blades are designed to "scoop" before the snip, and they are incredibly sharp for an effortless action.
The proper tool is a flush cut plier. Why not use the proper tool?
@@user-lm9gs5vt1q Because I've used them all. Regular electrician's dikes, smaller true flush cutters, and cat nail trimmers. In the case where you're worried about nicking nearby things, the cat nail clippers work better than the other two. They are a fraction of a second slower to use.
We've got chemistry here. Can you feel it?
I felt it!
All right Janice.
Fun fact: Freon is DuPont's registered trademark for R12. So unless the refrigerant is DuPont R12, it's not Freon
The Freon trademark is not specific to R12, it is for all of their fluorinated hydrocarbons. They also have Suva (and others), and appear to use it interchangeably on DuPont's various websites. They list R-134a as Freon 134a and Suva 134a.
I love "facts" that are in fact, not facts. Duponts brand name for Dichlorodifluoromethane is "Freon-12"
It's sparkling air.
facts arnt fun when you are wrong though
My brother used to huff the r 12 back when it was $.79 cents a can
The drain valve is off center.
You will have a permanent puddle in the tank that can't drain unless you tilt it while draining.
That's not his design. That's the way they come.
"I don't" at 19:04 made me chuckle. Fun video good job.
You know, the raw commentary alone.....that earned you another subscriber
F-yeah, my brutha with the frozen peanut butter cups!
I keep a bag of miniatures in the freezer year round.
Yum yum
Less portable but way more effective and practically free. Very nice.
I was under the impression that those compressors were higher pressure, but very slow. Hmm, Maybe I could do this with a slightly larger tank and 2 compressors running in parallel for increased CFM. Love the video. You gained a sub. :)
2 compressors = 2x amperage draw
Find the biggest 120v appliance like an ice machine that pulls as close to 15amps and that should be the biggest rated compressor of this type. I used one from an Ice machine.
@@DimMakTen31 True! But where are you going to find a perfectly good ice machine that nobody wants, just to scavenge a compressor from. Ice machines usually run A LOT!, refrigerators run about 30-50% on-off, but ice runs about 80% on, that is a lot more wear and tear on the valves before the total machine failed. Not impossible, just don't be holding your breath.
@@johnrussell6620 not as easy to find as a fridge, i was just explaining how i found about as much compressor as you can get on 120v
@@DimMakTen31 True, The compressor in the OP's project already runs at about 9-10A, and 50A during start, Not a lot of margin for a bigger compressor unless you go with a 20A breaker, wire, and outlet dedicated, as ICE is supposed to be on a dedicated circuit because of the electrical demand. 100% run should only consume 80% of available electrical capacity, preferably less.
I used one of those self tapping screws...it was the very short 1/2" one...drilled a hole in the bottom to drain the oil, then put 10w-30 motor oil (so later on I can just unscrew that bolt and replace the oil with regularity)...but that harbor freight oil would be much better (non-detergent oil)
I put 2oz...or 1/4 cup...those little compressors don't use alot...and will blow it out until it's at the right level
oh..another thing...a good 1/4oz of MotorKote will help the compressor on dry starts
Very very very cool!
That must be the same check valve they put in some of the trailers I pull. Have had many customers ask why there is an alarm going off on the trailer 😂
9:37 Caution! Stuffing a fat wallet in any pocket will eventually mess up your hips and back. Ironically, it's the diagonal opposite area that goes. So, your left rear wallet stuff will result in right hip pain. I was a left front guy and buggered my right sciatic nerve and butt. My dad was a right rear guy and had left hip trouble. His chiropractor clued us in and now I get to tell you. I now mix it up when I have to and carry when I can.
My first job was in a photo lab back when film was used for pictures. The air compressor in that shop sounded just like this compressor. When I got my compressor many years later I never could figure out how they got that film shop compressor so quiet. Its clearly using this type of setup. They should make all compressors this way.
It's more expensive to manufacture (DIY not included, manufacturers can't reliably scavenge old refrigerators) and more maintenance for the end user. People ending up with Harbor Freight compressors ( 🙋) aren't going out of their way to find high quality tools that cost a bit more.
Look into the California Air Tools compressors. They make small ones below 60db
@@OWSNubbles still manufactured in China and the one I have, the wheels constantly fall off and it's not especially quiet. they are nothing special.
Those big syringes are used for medical syringe pumps, when you need a slow and steady dose over time. It’s coupled to an iv-line, for example running iv anaesthesia during an operation or epinephrine in the ICU
You got to the bridge rectifier and that’s where I’d have completely tangented off into oblivion, wake up days later like oh yeah, flat tire
Good video quality to boot! Well done sir!
Add a toolbox seat on top of it! Great job!
Ahhh I should’ve built the whole thing under a shop stool! Missed opportunity.
For my second compressor I bought a larger 20 gal with a belt run pump ($4-500 range, but it had good performance numbers and relatively quiet. Plus I later augmented my fixed air lines with an additional removable tank).
I got really annoyed with the water that would come out of the system, more cause I didn’t want it to go into my tires, but also my tools, so I got a cheap (I think it was like $15?) transmission cooler, got the appropriate copper tubing & a decent filter and threw that all between the pump and the tank. Positioned the cooler in front of the belt guard which is in front of the fan that runs off the motor and viola.
Pulls lots, dare I say effectively all detectable?, water from the compressed air & cools the charged air down so it’s even denser in the tank.
Didn’t take long, wasn’t expensive (most expensive part was the filter/ / air/water separator - scoured eBay for a while looking for a good enough one that was heavily discounted) & keeps my lines & tanks virtually moisture free (some builds up, but only after a lotttt of use). It’s awesome.
Always wanted a faster pump without breaking the bank. Will have to check out some fridge compressors - thanks!
Maybe you can keep the condenser and condenser fan from the old fridge. A window AC may work better for this purpose...maybe keep the evaporator as well in series with the condenser and a trap at the end to drain water.
Might also point out that copper work hardens. Keep the copper pipe bending to a minimum.👍
I heard if you remove one of those compressor units from an ice chest at your local gas station it will grow back within a couple of days
“I felt it!”
Its 36 volt dc. I use one in my truck. It runs on an inverter from a 12 volt powered relay on the pressure sw.
I would like to know where I can get that full recording of that version of Chopin's compositions
The factory oil recharge for that compressor is 384ml. Dry is 440ml.
Can you provide your resources?
@@inkrpen Google search the model # on the Google Watch the video for the model #
I have the same compressor and a random fridge compressor and sitting in my basement, and these were the exact plans i had for it thanks for giving me inspiration
warning get a really good pressure releif valve those fridge compressors go up to 500psi that will blow that tank right up so use a couple of them one on the tank and or one on the valve assembly.. also your going to want to make sure the tube is long going into the tank why fridge compressors are bathed in oil and shoot out oil on the discharge so you might want to use a vaopr canister or oil catch before it goes into the red tank and a way to refill it back into the compressor you can get wisper quiet compressors now anyway california air makes a small one and harbor frieght now makes a really good one its really quiet and no fridge compressor
There's a Wendy's in Leeds, UK so we have the baconator also.
Mine has been a dependable workhorse for over a decade. Zero complaints.
Should've kept the condenser and fan to cool the air between the compressor and tank.
That compressor has seen way too much use stock. Good on you man. Good on you.
LOL Pennsylvania Summers, now I know you :D
Brass fittings gaul easily. The pipe dope helps lube the threads
Could you do this the same with recycled window air conditioner parts?
Super cool.
But it had lubricant in it to start with?
How does this compare to the Milwaukee inflator setup?
...we do have universal 220vac in the US...
Thanks
COOP
...
How many cfm do u get and can it power a paint gun my crafts man barely dose, it can spray for 6 to 10 seconds before having to stop spraying, to alow air to recharge
Brilliant!
I'd be curious about the actual dB reading of how loud that is to be honest.
You said: "The current rating of a conductor is based on it's size AND it's length" That is not exactly true. You'll still heat up the conductor wire the same with the excess current, but there will be somewhat less voltage drop over the length of the conductor. 16 gauge should be good for say 10 Amps though.
I can’t seem to find my refrigerator. Anyone seen it?
You could have rotation the tank 180 degrees, would have been a lot easier to access the valve underneath
nice1. I wouldn't trust myself to not mess it up and have the thing go kabooom!!! LOL
Speaking of kaboom, fridge compressors are capable of much higher pressure than a cheap air compressor. Be sure to set the pressure switch accordingly and consider adding a high pressure blowout plug as well.
I’m absolutely doing this.
I didnt even know Harrys had hoodies lmao also I have the same compressor and its loud af
Just wondering how well this held up. I tried this a long while ago, but it locked up after a few months.
I really liked having a small, silent compressor like this, so maybe I'll make another one with a larger compressor.
Just used it today! I use it all the time even when a bigger compressor would be better, because I simply don’t hear it running so I don’t care.
old video but that rectifier is indeed for the compressor motor, that looks to me like a brushed motor and while they *can* run on AC as seen in so called universal motors of vacuum cleaners and corded drills, theres no stator winding on that one from what i can tell so it only can run off DC (as with a stator magnet the commutator flips the AC rapidly but itll never sync up with a magnet while a stator winding will be in sync as in the stator field is opposing to the rotor field)
why they used that instead of an induction motor i honestly have no clue, perhaps since it has to be so small and also spin really fast, induction motors are big if they need torque, the kinda motor youd see on a furnace blower or large air compressor instead
*imperial is better* - few scenes later - uses a fkn 23/64 drill to make something close to a 9mm hole. nice comedy video you uploaded there =D
Interesting they didn't add a cap to filter and stabilize the DC output. Unless it's built in..and definitely a failure point.
I wonder how well a window unit compressor would fare. Have a newer HF 3gal pancake that is also ungodly loud and inefficient that i keep in my car and run off an inverter on occasion.
I don’t think that would be good to keep in your car. Not good if they roll over, and quite heavy. What do you use it for?
if you run the air through the fridge coils and then the water separator then the tank, you wouldn't have to worry about water accumulation in the tank. you would need a much better separator though
Have you had any issues with the compressor restarting with some pressure in the tank?
None. I use it heavily. Remember, these are designed to start under pressure with refrigerant!
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 cool!
A lot of home units can't restart when the high side is really high, they have to be off for a bit to cool.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 Not exactly...The system equalizes while the unit is off. Equal pressure on both sides, (inlet vs outlet) is the same as starting at 0 psi. Your unit has a hard start system...2 capacitors, 1-Start, 1-Run and a relay to switch them in and out as needed. Apparently it will start against 80psi if you continue to use the factory pressure switch.. The pressure valves you are referring to simply promote forward progress of the original freon, now compressed air.
@johnrussell6620 Appreciate the education!
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 Please read my other reply about correctly orienting the starter relay...
I'd consider extending the drain for even easier access.
It’s a jelly bean 12v hobby motor. That’s the reason for rectification. Half the motorized doodads in that store are probably using the same part
Literally me in the garage minus recording myself and posting it on youtube.
If anybody needs more CFM than this will provide, then use an air conditioning compressor. You might even be able to use the housing for a neat package. I would recommend plumbing the air that comes out of the compressor through one of the condensers or evaporators for extra cooling.
Air conditioning compressors are mostly 220v, just as big as a conventional compressor, need a larger tank to be useful and become very immovable by the time you are done.
@@johnrussell6620 that is true that many air conditioners are heavy and require 220 volts. But there are also smaller units that run on 120 volts. I have a 5000 BTU unit that would be perfect for air compressor use.
@@COBARHORSE1 The RST40 in this video has 3500BTU at 20Deg, and probably has 4000-4500 if it was in an A/C running at 40Deg, so your 5000btu A/C would only be 15-25% bigger, counting and comparing BTU's as a common comparison factor. I'm not saying you are wrong, I'm saying there is not that much advantage. Why disassemble a perfectly good small window A/C? Why expect a faulty window A/C to function at peak efficiency to deliver more than the OP's 4000-ish BTU's of capacity. on the other hand, rip apart a 12000, or a 15000 BTU 120v 20A A/C and lug that compressor around...
I need that rubber check valve for my own 3 gallon Canadian Tire compressor made by the same company. Mine is malformed and leaks. I looked everywhere for parts but nobody sells it. Can you mail it to me?
Cool so if I did the same with a 60gal tank, it would take about 2 hours to fill to 100psi? Sweeet 👍
The fire extinguisher tanks are rated to 300 PSI!
Got me wanting to do this now.. hmm need to start looking for a junk fridge..
The noise on these compressors has always seemed ridiculous to me! Why is every air compressor a huge pain in the ear?! I have access to a supply of refrigeration and even large AC compressors, so I'm totally going to make this upgrade!
Wouldn‘t this cause problems when starting the compressor with the tank already pressurised because of the low starting torque of the induction motor?
Why would it start when there is pressure in the tank?
@@Rudy97
Let’s say the tire you want to inflate needs more air that the tank can supply. The compressor would restart while still connected to the partly pressurized tire (this actually happened in the video).
Another scenario would be if you want to run an air tool. There you want a somewhat constant pressure in the tank so the pump needs to kick in before the air has completely run out.
Therefore every commercially available air compressor that uses an induction motor has a device that vents the pressure from the line between the pump and the tank so the motor doesn‘t have to fight the pressure in the tank immediately after restarting.
These compressors have built in check valves for this purpose. Thats how your fridge is able to restart without stalling.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 Not exactly...The system equalizes while the unit is off. Equal pressure on both sides, (inlet vs outlet) is the same as starting at 0 psi. Your experimentation will reveal if it will start against 80psi if you continue to use the factory pressure switch.. The pressure valves you are referring to simply promote forward progress of the original freon, now compressed air.
I have one of the newer cheap air compressors from HF and they are still crap, it's like 4 minutes to fill up the 3 gallon tank and still loud af
Bravo......ok.....epoxy on the hard threads stuff.....and silver solder can weld most all metals together......1100lbs ......cheers
Never seen the inside of a fridge compressor, wonder how they work ?
Dude, you're on youtube, just search for "inside a fridge compressor", there are a bunch of videos.
I don't want to make this weird, but I *REALLY* enjoy your videos. Really great stuff. Can we hang out? FYI, visitation days are Tuesday and Thursday from 10-2.
I don't want to sound rude but I think you are actually weird. Sorry
22:25 obvious attention span waning....instant sub.
5x 60ml syringes were used by my nurse to draw blood used for a procedure that required a large amount of my blood plasma, that’s at least one application 🤷
I like it but that compressor will not last on air.
That’s a terrible idea in terms of general usefulness, but a wonderful idea as a stationary compressor with a large tank, lower draw, and low noise is paramount.
Dinosaur blood more like plant blood
Biggest problem with an air compressor: NOISE.
at 10:29, why not use your syringe ??
hell yeah,. from femboy fishing to femboy workshop
build a seat on top
I have that air compressor. It’s a POS. 😂
Hoe fo sho! Ive been wondering what to do about the oil.... good stuff
At 21:45, you have the start pack laying horizontal, originally it was mounted vertical. The white box relay is sensitive to being "CORRECT SIDE UP". If you take the screw out, you can read the label. I know it has been a year now and the world has not ended, but, It is a precision balanced relay contact that no longer has an accurate reference to earths' gravity. It may function(appear to function) but it is not functioning as it was designed. Remount it to the vertical side to the right of the screen/image. 2 precision holes required to remount and to prevent it from getting cocked to 1 side or the other. Just copy the original holes.
hmmmm
FFL and MFL fittings, also work on Co2 systems for
a homebrewer's kegerator. (See if you can guess who
used a set of HVAC gauges on his kegerator.)
Also, in my old house AC compressor leaked out all
its freon. Let's try using R-600 instead of the R-20
in it. You can get BBQ grade R-600 at Home D, in
15 pound refillable bottles. Little over $20. Had to
refill about 6 times that summer, but here in Phoenix,
we survived. Landlord replaced the AC in the fall, when
they were a LOT cheaper.
steve
R600 is Isobutane, it is flammable/explosive, do not do this! R-600 is not 'BBQ Gas'! Rechargeable cigarette lighters are R-600....R-290 is propane, propane is "BBQ Gas", do not do this!! it is flammable/explosive, do not do this!. Refrigeration systems that are engineer for and do use R-290 only have 2oz, 3oz max 5oz of refrigerant and if it managed to leak it would only cause a small localized explosion, 5lb of propane leaking could explode your entire house! it is flammable/explosive, do not do this!
Is this a b@mb? 😂😂😂😂
*using a harbor freight compressor tank to make a home brew refrigerant compressor explosion liability *
can't imagine lasting long without oil in it
I’ll stick with my 10hp screw compressor. Thanks though.
Yeah, but alot of us don't have that kind of $$$.
Curiously interesting But IMO a KOMPLETE waste of time.
Price of ALL the bits 'n pieces coupled with the price of the Original compressor and You Should have bought a larger More capable compressor .
And Not have wasted the Time / Work and Effort running around buying the various bits AND Making it all work. As a large ugly Contraption