Making a Proper Split-bolt Connection. Aka-Bugs
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2024
- In this video I show how to make a proper split-bolt connection. This is known as Bugging the wire. It is important to remember that not everyone does it the same. You can use this connection for Copper and Aluminum. I show how to make a #2 bug splice and a 4/0 bug splice with two different type of bugs.
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I didn't mind the Channelocks so much, but I was real concerned about using the stiffness of the wire to provide the resistance for tightening. The wire got bent over and then re-straightened. I would never introduce that kind of strain and potential fatigue at a splice location like that. If you must use Channelocks, use two of them to grip both components of the split bolt instead, or one Channelock to grip the body and a proper wrench for the nut.
Nice splices. Reminds me how labor intensive bugging is. I used IPCs (insulation piercing connectors) a lot when I was doing solar and tapping onto the mains. They save a lot of time because you don’t have to strip the wire...and when you’re done tightening the bolt, you don’t need to wrap it with any splicing tape. Quite an awesome connector.
Hundred electricians analogy is sooo true. I've worked with hundreds, each time you work with a new one ,especially a new company, you will be being re schooled on everything from walking to twisting wire nuts. Wether your a master or apprentice.
For a service I use antioxidant and buy 3 rolls of both tapes and try to use most of it. Depends alot on how awkward/dangerous of a position I am in on the ladder and how tired my arm is getting honestly lol atleast half roll of thick rubber and try for full roll of regular tape which I try to get real rubber hi quality for as well. I was taught full roll of each but over the years realizing that is over kill but seriously that stuff is going to be blowing around in the wind and all kinds of weather for who knows how long. It's worth the 30 bucks in tape and a little extra time for piece of mind...to me.
There is an industry standard.
1. Use antioxidant/deox to keep the conductors from plating due to electrolysis.
2. Use a wrenches and a hammer to insure the conductors compress fully.
3. Use camber tape to protect the tape from the bolt.
4. Wrap with rubber.
5. Wrap with a high quality electrical tape.
If you want a fast connection, use Polaris pre-insulated connectors.
There aren't hundreds of ways to do it. There are only two. The right war or the HACK way.
I see two issues with your parallel connection on the first split bolt. #1- when tightening the bolt, you should use a backing wrench, you can see when it started to get tight it started bending the wire, which you then straightened causing undue stress. Not a huge deal but integrity of the wire is key. #2- You stated a "waterproof connection" using the rubber tape, however you did not use rubber tape in between the 2 wires so there is no seal to keep water from entering at the bottom in between the 2 wires. Placing rubber tape in between the 2 wires and the wrapping that around both wires twice before wrapping the lug would prevent water intrusion.
Excellent job as always Craig !
Seriously brilliant and well explained Craig.
In the small company I was employed at, we put a layer of electrical tape on first, then our rubber/putty tape, then finish with electrical tape. This allows us to reuse our split bolts if need be. Getting the tape of isn't to difficult when no rubber is stretched around the threads.
That is a great point!! It is always nice to hear how others do it!! So many different ways of doing the same job in electrical. Depending on what state or country. Thanks for sharing the tip!! CM
This is how I was taught, except the first layer of electrical tapes goes on sticky side out, so if you ever have to service it, there won’t be any sticky residue from heat.
Like to have a dollar every time I had to reuse a bug that had rubber taped melted onto it. We used garnished Cambridge take first then scotch 33 tape and UT was usually easy to reuse bugs.
We used the varnish tape or Cambric tape. Whatever you wanna call it. Then 33 then the rubber tape then 33 again
Reaching for the channel locks really hurt. Use the properly sized wrench, or an adjustable wrench if you have to. Never channel locks.
Excellent video !!!
Thanks for video . Awsome👍
Informative, thanks.
Thanks for a great video.
Great video very informative
Very nice bro I appreciate you sharing
Thanks Bro even the simple stuff I learned me something new
Thanks for sharing this with me, I've only done one so far . I am a electrician helper so I did as I was instructed by a licensed electrician and it turned out bad . I've never seen him use that rubber tape, glad to see how to use it. God Bless You.
Aplus presentation. Thanks
yes. helped me. next step I need to buy the bugs and the rubber.
This is gold. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Can I use these to splice the 100 amp aluminum wires going from the outside service panel to the inside panel of a trailer? The splice will be inside the 200 amp service box outside. Just need to extend the aluminum wire to reach a breaker because the bottom lugs got seized up for some reason.
Nice job
Thank you for watching!!! CM
I can tell that you are a probably a really good instructor. Nice job! Thanks.
If Im not mistaken the rubber (3M) high voltage tape calls for the sticky side out while wrapping and finishing up with the regular approved electrical tape
Thank you! Industrial mechanic here cringing with the thought of servicing this guys work in a peckerhead. Not a fan of his stripping practices either. I learned to score, break with 9s, and pull. Not whittling like it's a boy scout project.
@@eyeveedeath Its called pencil stripping. It's a common practice for aluminum. If you accidentally score some of the aluminum strands they can actually break off and cause a premature failure of the connection. Copper is much tougher. I use a tool that strips the jacket with out damaging the stranded wire.
Can I use ring connectors crimped to each wire and then attach them with a bolt an nut instead? e.g., if you need to connect three or more wires together it is harder with a split bolt.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks man
Is that actually rubber tape or is it self-fusing silicone tape?
Awesome, thank you.
Anti Oxidant? How do you keep moisture from leaking into joint between legs? Is your tape(s) UL or equivalent approved?
Yes these are great connections, but would ask that you demonstrate properly torqued tightening. I personally have to go back and retighten connectors. And then properly TORQUED them. Also I have to say that "BURNDY" LINE TAP S are a more expensive option But you don't have the time and labor involved. But I will say that I will be a subscriper and follow you. Thx for your info.
Thank you good job
Can this also be used to extend 6 gauge ground wire? I have a ground bond wire in side my walls going to my gas water heater that is coming from a ground rod. I want to install windows and this wire is in the way so I want to reroute the wire
Nice informative video Sir. I have a suggestion. I think it is better to demonstrate it to simulate an actual work scenario.Like Your on a ladder wearing your PPE.
the only he was missing was his sunglasses and i didnt see any sun?🤷♀️😜
excellent
Thank you for sharing that Craig!
Could you explain megging a motor or wire? 1k ohms to ground etc...thank you
Thanks
COOP
...
I have never used a split bolt bug or seen a JM Electrician use one in a panel or wireway. I usually see electricians use polaris taps which are not of the split bolt type usually in handholes and large junction boxes.
I wonder why the first bug's design uses a chunk of galvanized steel washer in between the two aluminum conductors. It seems natural that the two aluminum conductors should mash together for lower resistance?
Just guessing that maybe the intermediate steel washer is somewhat concave so the strands of aluminum don't go haywire when compressed ?
I have some of those and never really had much opportunity to use them. I'll have to dig em up and see what that washer looks like.
Because it's also rated for copper & aluminum connections and acts as a separation
I just found one that failed and it looks like it would not have failed so badly if they had not been separated.
U should demonstrate that live
Awsome
Great job !
Years ago I was painting a house around the service wires and noticed splices that had electrical tape. Just electrical tape, none of that rubber tape. Half ass job, you could see many gaps in the wrap, obviously it was done just good enough so they looked taped from the ground. I verified the poor job when my forearm brushed against one of them ( yes, very bad judgment on my part). Thank god I was on an aluminum ladder so I could learn my lesson properly.
Also all the components of a typical bucket. 480v, motor starter, OLs, control transformer etc...thank you
Hodor??
What's the brand for the second bug?
Don't split bolts need to be torqued to manufacturer specs? 2020 NEC seems to focus on this.
Every thing is tork. Switches meters breakers panels lugs. Bugs
I need to splice 3 legs of #6-2/G NMB for a daisy chained, 2-outlet 50A welder circuit (so the first outlet box will have 1) a leg coming in from the panel, 2) a leg out to the second outlet, and 3) pigtails for the first receptacle). I assume there won’t be enough room in a 2-gang box for a 50A 6-50R receptacle AND the taped split bolts. What’s the proper way to arrange this - a separate box screwed to the side of the receptacle box, one for the receptacle and the other for all the splices? Or...?
Tom Garbo thanks for the reply. I actually just finished this up recently. For me the answer was to use Garvin masonry boxes with plaster ears welded on. This was the only solution I could find for a steel 2-gang box and still be 3-1/2” deep. Then I used Polaris Black IPL4-3A connectors instead of split bolts. Although tight, this made it possible to get everything into one box. Thanks again.
Can you barrier that 4/0 bug
He has very Good info.
Thank you for watching!! CM
If you can't make up a bug find another profession
Could you use the first split bolt that you used on the 2/0 wire for the inline splice with the 4/0 providing it would accept the 4/0?
Yes
Did u try it ?
I have always used Cambric tape first, then rubber then 33+
3m has a vid using the Resin tape💪
@@JJMECC found it. I’ve been doing it this way for 40 years.
ua-cam.com/video/9tsx6im7qng/v-deo.html
@@blockisle9 Only 30+yrs for me LOL..
@@JJMECC LOL, The trade has changed a lot since then and Not necessarily for the better. The big box stores and device manufacturers have been doing a lot of lobbying and a lot of things required now are catered to the homeowners to make it easy for them.
Si can i use those bugs to extend my main electrical wire I need to move my breaker box some one can answer please
Check with your power company. They will be able to schedule the power being disconnected before the work is done and reconnected after it is finished. They also handle most of what is on their side of the meter and you are responsible for whatever is on your side of the meter.
Doesn’t the galvanized connector corrode the aluminum wire over time?
No. In the high voltage industry the bronze connectors or aluminum connectors we use is coated with a non reactive covering. It is not zinc such as a galvanizing.
Can I splice 3 service drop cables with that split-bolt bug?
Get video by the way! 👍😃😷
Your method works only when the wires are coming from different directions as in the second segment of this video. With your first example you didn’t make any attempt to waterproof between the two wires. Simply putting a small piece of that rubber tape on the wires where the insulation of each touches may have helped to make the connection water tight. You made an excellent video on how to wrap the nut and bare wires with those two types of tape but when water follows those wires in your first example and via capillary action, gets drawn up to the connection, under the tape, it will not dry out and only serve to cause trouble. 😳
Now let's do this with 6 #6 wires sticking out of a junction box.
Or 2- 350mcm
We know split bolts as kerneys
Does this need to be done inside a junction box?
Normally a J box or trought unless it is at a service entrance head. Then it is in mid air.
Is grease required for Al wire? I did this (as a homeowner with permit) and greased all of the connections. I need to go back and rubberize the splices to thicken them as you showed. Thanks
No you just have to use the correct Bugs. CM
Check out this video on Noalox... ua-cam.com/video/B05Lu7h5Tig/v-deo.html
If using Aluminum wire should I use an Aluminum bug or split-bolt and is it ok to a copper split bolt with Aluminum wire? Thanks!
As long as the bug is rated for copper. CM
reminds me of wrapping my handlebars on my ten speed
Why no de ox
To make it easier on the next guy that has to cut off the splice back wrap the connection with electrical tape before you put on the rubber tape. Makes it much easier to cut it off. Would have liked to see you cut the splice in half so people could see the thickness of the rubber tape, and that it was 2x the thickness of the cable insulation.
Doug Johansen I think that is one reason calls for tape to be wrapped on sticky side out.
... Or you can use a Polaris tap which is MUCH easier and safer but obviously more money.
Definitely the way to go, assuming the shop actually buys them for you.
And will way outlast this
I absolutely hate using butt connectors. Can this technique be used on 6awg wiring for a trolling motor? It would make life so much simpler. I don't see anyone in the boating world using this technique for their motors - but it just seems so much more simple than crimping butt connectors. If there's any reason you think this application wouldn't work for a trolling motor and 6awg please let me know. Other than aesthetics. I could care less how ugly it is and all my wiring is through the kayak, it would never get in the way.
whats the name of the second bolt?
Dead nuts
Parallel Groove Connector/ Gutter Taps/ In-Line Splice. Many names...depends on manufacturer
@@michaeldove339 thanks
Watching this made me want to go buy a crimp tool
I didn’t lubricate the wire ,?
You didn't? Well, maybe you should.
This is wrong u use cambric tape wrapped backwards, the rubber tape, then supper 33 or another high grade vinyl tape
This doesn’t seem like it would hold up in a outdoor location. The temperatures alone would cause the adhesive on the tape to release and loosen up
Been working in the utility industry for a power company for 15 yrs and I must say that the tape as protection for anyone is complete nonsense.