Great series here Mr. Tom.....balancing functionality and the aesthetic design details. It's just a joy to watch a real craftsman at work. Thanks, Sean.
Hi Tom, Thanks for putting the time into another great video for us all! I really like the dark colour of that aluminium bronze! Something I've never seen before. Lots of things I've never seen before in your vids. Can't wait to see the etching press complete in all it's glory!!! Cheers
There's nothing better when you wake up, get your coffee, and sit down for "this is how this is done" by Mr. Tom Lipton!! Now I can start my day. Razor!
Nice job. When it's finished it's going to look real good. Black arm, polished or brushed bronze and black button heads would be my choice. Nice choices on your tooling, saw blade, sanding belt, end mill etc. You are definitely a genuine tool freak.
Tom, It really sets it all off with those bronze wear plates fitted to each side, it is turning out to be a really nice piece of work, I can see later on when the press all finished, it's going to be something that you can be really proud of with all the work that you have put into it, and we are enjoying being part of the process and able to come on the journey with you. p.s: those button head screws look good sitting proud, if you counter bore them it would lose some of the effect I would think, unless you change the screw head to something else. Much appreciated for all your great videos. John MD
Hi John, Thanks for the comment. I wanted the lower area of the arm to be thicker so it showed off the upper radius and looked cast as opposed to cut out of flat plate. All the best, Tom
Nice episode! As always I enjoyed watching it. I like that this time you added some specs to the tools used (type of blade and sandingbelt for example) And ofcourse the close ups. As always looking forward to your meatloaf!
Tom Nice close-ups when bandsawing and belt sanding the bronze. It's interesting how the camera fools you with what material you were using. The bronze colour didn't stand out for me when you were marking it out and rough shaping it, but immediately you attached it to the arm, the colour contrast came out strongly. The video cuts to the DRO settings worked really well. As always, thanks for a really enjoyable episode.
Tom, thanks for the lessons in layout and bronze shaping. Watching you match the bronze to the steel made me wonder if there's a metalworking equivalent to template routing in woodworking. A pilot bearing on an endmill wouldn't be a problem, but following the edge with two axis hand wheels might be...am I off in left field here, or is this just a secret technique done only in the dark of night by the anointed masters? BTW, I've finally joined the ranks of amateur machinists...I bought a 1955 South Bend 9" model A a couple of weeks ago. First project was turning the T-nut for a QCTP....which at first I thought I'd need a mill for, but a little looking around showed that it could be done on the lathe with a 4-jaw chuck. Mr. Bozo did come visit, but was nice enough to just mess with appearance, not functionality of my first ever part. Thanks to you, Adam, Keith and Keith, John "Doubleboost", and several others, I actually managed to get 'er done! Next up is one of Adam's lug back indicator adapters for a Noga. Your enthusiasm is definitely contagious, but I don't think we should quarantine you! Thank you! -- Mike
Hey Mike, I have done stuff like you suggest using router bits. The bronze is tough to cut with a good endmill. I should try that sometime. Congratulations on the lathe. You're headed down the rabbit hole now for sure. All the best, Tom
oxtoolco Thanks! The lathe is in very good shape...just two prior owners, both hobbyists, so no industrial time on it. Still has scrape marks on the ways the whole length...though a little less prominent near the headstock. I've been headed down the rabbit hole for a while now...but now I can accelerate the fall a bit! I'd like a mill next, but due to space issues it will have to be a very small one for now. I may get an import and use it to experiment with CNC milling...but for now the lathe is using all available free time. -- Mike
The pieces are looking cool Tom, but I'm just itchin to see what this thing looks like lol. You just gotta love those cobalt roughers, boy can you hog off a lot in a hurry. I also find you can create an interesting finish by oscillating the z on the quill for non critical edges. Thanks, Ian Little
Hey Brian, That is actually a really good question. It potentially could see the full input torque from the four foot diameter handwheel. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Tom, I really enjoy these mid-week milling videos. Please, upload these often and thanks!!!!!!! Regarding the screws, I like their apperance as they are now, but I think a test of a slight counterbore is needed before a firm decision is made. Will these screws, as well as other screws, be a contrast color on the bronze/machine? I think an obvious answer will 'jump' at you as 'to counterbore or not', after a test. The bronze looks great and should be a nice contrast on the completed machine's color! ....13
Hey 13, I cant decide right now. I might do a little test on the backside of one of the wear plates just to get a visual. The screws may be stainless or black. What ever looks the coolest. Thanks for the comment. cheers, Tom
Hey Tom, Nice work on your wear plates. It will be interesting to see how all these parts function once the unit is assembled. Thanks! I don't know if you are into Bay Area baseball, but GO GIANTS! Have a good one! Oxen Dave
I was wondering if in your closing credits you could also mention the type, rough size, and price of some of the featured metal you are working with. It would be great to get an idea how much is at risk if you were to make too much of a "bozo" move; give us an idea of what source materials run for; and it would be of historical interest for when you are doing these 10 years into the future. Thanks, Carl
Very Cool stuff, I really like the look of mixed metals and the contrasting hues. It great to see this coming right along! BTW, I am going to be working on some brass this weekend, how tough is 843? I discovered that the huns on the changes gears I bought and cannot return are too narrow and so I am going to make a little video on the repairoration of my restoration...I hope my little tricks won't get me laughed at too much, but I'm in one of those places were you can roll over and give up or try and work my way free. I choose to be free of the cage that one eBay seller's greed has tried to trap me in, but I got my grinding wheel dresser and will make a nice sharp tool to broach some keyways into a stack of 843 brass thrust wahers I'm going to fixture together and got for it! Hopefully it makes for some good video, thanks for sharing your video with us my friend, Aloha...Chucken bok-bok!
oxtoolco I got the number from McMaster-Carr, and it is the brass(correction 841 BRONZE...Duh!) alloy of the thrust washers I am broaching to fit along side of the change gears of of the standard "Zamac" alloy I bought 2 moths ago but just discovered are too thin in the hubs to run properly on my lathe. So I got the thrust washers from McMaster-Carr to make double-keyway spacers out of their "thrust washer" section. The gears I bought are too thin in the hubs by .0625" per side, and so I am going to sandwich both 1/8" and 1/16th" spacers in-between the gears of a perfect diameter that matches the hubs and will ride on the double-keyway bushings and keep the gear teeth from interfering with one another when they form compound gear-trains. I've attempted to get the seller to exchange the gears or refund me, but there isn't any leverage on my side since I took too long to notice that they were different from my OEM gears and are apparently the thinner ones with the same pitch and tooth count that Craftsman produced for their series of lathes. Oddly they ran when I formed simpler gear assemblies (hence with a heap of slop, but they stayed in-line during operation, probably due to the centrifugal forces of the spinning?), but when I want to run them compounded there will be trouble if they walk over on the bushing and grab hold of an oncoming gear. I have put allot of thought into this and know it will "work", but I also know that these gears aren't going to be as strong as the OEM ones that are .500" at the hub and .375" at the tooth, sadly they are just paperweights to me if I don't use them, since I wouldn't want to sell them to someone knowing what I do and I cannot find any replacements or afford the NOS from Clausing. I don't think I can do any harm to the Frankenlathe, and if the gears bust then "C'est la Vie", I'm no worse the wear and possibly can make a cool video about rising from adversity and meeting a challenge with a well(or at least long) thought through plan, and some hard work broaching those spacers. I do have a nice new grinder dresser to fine tune my wheels before making my broaching tool, so it will all be great education at the very minimum. If There appears to be any lack of freedom in the rolling of the gears I won't implode my machine in any way, and it will just be a few washers the get hashed and leave me a bit wiser and with an odd HSS tool ;) I'll send you some pictures through email in the morning when it's light so it becomes more clear as to what I intend, though I am certain you understand even with my limited vocabulary of terms. Aloha and hoping you're having a great weekend...Chuck
When you know you are going to use two cameras in a shoot, once you start recording clap your hands once or twice so you can line them up in post, when you cut from one camera to another delete the audio from the go pro so that you only hear the audio from one mic, and the cameras are synced. Not sure if you have tried that but just throwing it out there.
Hey Max, The current software I use does not support audio editing in context to the video. I have been using Windows live movie maker for everything. I am considering upgrading as you guys have shown you like what I'm doing here. Thanks for the comment and feedback. Cheers, Tom
Question for you Tom: Does ramping in like that let you cut the slot without a center cutting end mill or is that just the right way to do it even with one?
Hi Pest, It allows you to cut in Z with a non center cutting tool. If it would have been center cutting I would have plunged unless it didn't behave for some reason. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Beautiful looking metal, would seem a shame to paint it. And another "Oxism"! In the way of "it poofed out the bottom". That's another keeper. Cheers, Tom.
Hi Aaron, I have two I carry nowdays. The old standby is a Starrett C-604RE and the flexible one is a C-334-150 with mm and 1/2mm on one side. Cheers, Tom
Hey Eric, Premature commenter eh? You are correct. Tapping is one thing hammering is another. I have seen some brutal hammering done on a once nice plate. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Andy Coakes Hey Andy, Good spot. A couple teeth are knocked off somewhere on the blade. Its been on the saw since I shot the making a steady rest series. I think I got my moneys worth out of it. Cheers, Tom
i used to do that with my old band saw but my mum used to cut kindling and fire wood for the fire on it so i fitted a new blade and put the the guards back on it again shes in her 70s you know i sold it because she started using recycled saw dust and coke lol
+oxtoolco Cheers Tom, I know for a fact you knew that... Just thought I would mention it for the less experienced people who happen to browse the comments. Keep up the amazing videos, I've been a fan for years and learned countless things from you and your channel.
Bozo math...was trying to do some of that last night setting up a taper...I guess I'll find out if I did it right when I got to try to cut it this weekend. Brain wasn't working too well converting decimals to 1/10,000ths. :-) Nice video on matching up parts.
Hey Gopher, That's why you have fingers. Tenths, hundredths, thousandths, ten thousandths, hundred thousandths, then you run out of fingers. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
No, No, Don it can't be you, his Bozo actually visits him on an occasional basis .or so he would have you believe. Me. I think he lies about visits. :>) ATB chris
Young Tom, keep your money for something else more important,,like chocolate ash trays for a motorcycle, The Bozo family of America is just a small off shoot of the European original and not all of them set out to colonise the the Americas. The main family is well settled in this country and have been for many a year. As you know there was a Mr Bozo in charge of Taxation policy, working for a certain King George,, which caused the rabble your side of the pond to go it alone. History lesson courtesy of the Bozo family archives.
Hey Cannibal, Not following you here. The fitting on the end of the height gage is called a scriber. It has no other function in life. You can't really measure with it only mark. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Yeah. I bought it specifically for calibrating my square master and I never thought it might have other uses lol! I've been struggling with a cylinder square for layout work like a rookie hahaha!
Great instructional video for us Bozo's. Why do you suppose Bronze acts the way it did with the drilling for the screw, because it heats up quickly and cools down just as quick or is it leaving a somewhat ragged edge. Keep in mind this question is submitted by a Bozo. LOL
Hi Eric, When the flanks of a drill get a little worn they still cut fine in most materials. In bronze this is not the case. The drill kind of pushes through the material leaving an undersize hole typically. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Great series here Mr. Tom.....balancing functionality and the aesthetic design details. It's just a joy to watch a real craftsman at work. Thanks, Sean.
Hey Sean,
Thanks for the nice comment. I'm only going to build one of these so it better be good.
All the best,
Tom
Hi Tom, Thanks for putting the time into another great video for us all! I really like the dark colour of that aluminium bronze! Something I've never seen before. Lots of things I've never seen before in your vids. Can't wait to see the etching press complete in all it's glory!!! Cheers
Hi Danny,
Thanks for the comment and feedback.
All the best,
Tom
There's nothing better when you wake up, get your coffee, and sit down for "this is how this is done" by Mr. Tom Lipton!!
Now I can start my day.
Razor!
Hey Ray,
Thanks for stopping by. Well at least you didn't fall back asleep again.
Talk to you soon.
Tom
Good looking work there Tom, and showing some more of those nice machinist tricks.
Hey Adam,
Sounds great coming from a pro like you. Thanks for stopping by.
Talk to you soon.
Tom
Nice job. When it's finished it's going to look real good. Black arm, polished or brushed bronze and black button heads would be my choice. Nice choices on your tooling, saw blade, sanding belt, end mill etc. You are definitely a genuine tool freak.
Hey Cycles,
Life is too short to mess around with dull tools. Thanks for the comment and feedback.
All the best,
Tom
Tom,
It really sets it all off with those bronze wear plates fitted to each side, it is turning out to be a really nice piece of work, I can see later on when the press all finished, it's going to be something that you can be really proud of with all the work that you have put into it, and we are enjoying being part of the process and able to come on the journey with you.
p.s: those button head screws look good sitting proud, if you counter bore them it would lose some of the effect I would think, unless you change the screw head to something else.
Much appreciated for all your great videos.
John MD
Hi John,
Thanks for the comment. I wanted the lower area of the arm to be thicker so it showed off the upper radius and looked cast as opposed to cut out of flat plate.
All the best,
Tom
Nice episode! As always I enjoyed watching it. I like that this time you added some specs to the tools used (type of blade and sandingbelt for example) And ofcourse the close ups. As always looking forward to your meatloaf!
Hi Kiter,
Thanks for the comment. Not long to wait for meatloaf.
cheers,
Tom
Great video. I don't have much experience with bronze or brass so it is good to see what problems it causes you. Thanks for sharing.
Tom
Nice close-ups when bandsawing and belt sanding the bronze.
It's interesting how the camera fools you with what material you were using. The bronze colour didn't stand out for me when you were marking it out and rough shaping it, but immediately you attached it to the arm, the colour contrast came out strongly.
The video cuts to the DRO settings worked really well.
As always, thanks for a really enjoyable episode.
Hi Stephen,
Thanks for the feedback. The surface of the bronze is pretty oxidized. It looks better once you sand off the dark stuff.
All the best,
Tom
Tom, thanks for the lessons in layout and bronze shaping.
Watching you match the bronze to the steel made me wonder if there's a metalworking equivalent to template routing in woodworking. A pilot bearing on an endmill wouldn't be a problem, but following the edge with two axis hand wheels might be...am I off in left field here, or is this just a secret technique done only in the dark of night by the anointed masters?
BTW, I've finally joined the ranks of amateur machinists...I bought a 1955 South Bend 9" model A a couple of weeks ago. First project was turning the T-nut for a QCTP....which at first I thought I'd need a mill for, but a little looking around showed that it could be done on the lathe with a 4-jaw chuck. Mr. Bozo did come visit, but was nice enough to just mess with appearance, not functionality of my first ever part. Thanks to you, Adam, Keith and Keith, John "Doubleboost", and several others, I actually managed to get 'er done! Next up is one of Adam's lug back indicator adapters for a Noga. Your enthusiasm is definitely contagious, but I don't think we should quarantine you!
Thank you!
-- Mike
Hey Mike,
I have done stuff like you suggest using router bits. The bronze is tough to cut with a good endmill. I should try that sometime. Congratulations on the lathe. You're headed down the rabbit hole now for sure.
All the best,
Tom
oxtoolco
Thanks! The lathe is in very good shape...just two prior owners, both hobbyists, so no industrial time on it. Still has scrape marks on the ways the whole length...though a little less prominent near the headstock. I've been headed down the rabbit hole for a while now...but now I can accelerate the fall a bit! I'd like a mill next, but due to space issues it will have to be a very small one for now. I may get an import and use it to experiment with CNC milling...but for now the lathe is using all available free time.
-- Mike
It's looking real good Tom.
Like Keith says " better looking at it than for it"
Great work.
Hi Gerald,
I haven't heard Keith say that one. Its great. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
The pieces are looking cool Tom, but I'm just itchin to see what this thing looks like lol. You just gotta love those cobalt roughers, boy can you hog off a lot in a hurry. I also find you can create an interesting finish by oscillating the z on the quill for non critical edges.
Thanks, Ian Little
Hey Ian,
I love these YG fine pitch roughing end mills. They actually leave a pretty good finish for many things. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
How many ft-lbs of torque will be on that arm? looks like it should be good for a couple of 1000!
Hey Brian,
That is actually a really good question. It potentially could see the full input torque from the four foot diameter handwheel. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
"Better to have a little to work with than to come up short." Boy, if I had a dollar for every time I've heard that.
Hey Victor,
They have treatment for that these days. Nothing to be embarrassed about.
All the best,
Tom
Very nice Tom.
Tom, I really enjoy these mid-week milling videos. Please, upload these often and thanks!!!!!!!
Regarding the screws, I like their apperance as they are now, but I think a test of a slight counterbore is needed before a firm decision is made. Will these screws, as well as other screws, be a contrast color on the bronze/machine? I think an obvious answer will 'jump' at you as 'to counterbore or not', after a test.
The bronze looks great and should be a nice contrast on the completed machine's color!
....13
Hey 13,
I cant decide right now. I might do a little test on the backside of one of the wear plates just to get a visual. The screws may be stainless or black. What ever looks the coolest. Thanks for the comment.
cheers,
Tom
That was a very nice video and a very good job.
Louis
Hi Louis,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hey Tom,
Nice work on your wear plates. It will be interesting to see how all these parts function once the unit is assembled. Thanks!
I don't know if you are into Bay Area baseball, but GO GIANTS!
Have a good one!
Oxen Dave
Hey Dave,
I sent Mr Bozo to Kansas City but I don't think he made it there.
Cheers,
Tom
I was wondering if in your closing credits you could also mention the type, rough size, and price of some of the featured metal you are working with. It would be great to get an idea how much is at risk if you were to make too much of a "bozo" move; give us an idea of what source materials run for; and it would be of historical interest for when you are doing these 10 years into the future.
Thanks,
Carl
Hey Carl,
Not a bad idea as a time capsule. Alum at $4/lb etc. Great idea. I'll see if my editor can squeeze it in.
All the best,
Tom
Sweet work Tom!!! Whats the largest drill yer Albrecht will handle?
Hey Eddie,
The one in the video will hold up to 1/2 diameter. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
this is coming along great! I'm getting excited now :)
Tom, Great tips on how to combat Bozo! Thanks for sharing.
Hey Herb,
Its not a war on terror. Its a war against BOZO.
Cheers,
Tom
GREAT VIDEO !!
HOW DO YOU MOVE A CENTER PUNCH MARK A TINY BIT ??
+OLD WIPPER-SNAPPER Speak to it harshly. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
((((( LOL !! )))))
Typically with a chisel, push it in the direction you want to go.
As usual, nice work, Six Jaw.
Nice work, Tom. What material is that? Bronze?
I don't think you should counterbore the screws, I think the button head cap screws look nice proud.
Hi Andre,
I think you're right. They look pretty sporty right now.
Cheers,
Tom
Very Cool stuff, I really like the look of mixed metals and the contrasting hues. It great to see this coming right along!
BTW, I am going to be working on some brass this weekend, how tough is 843? I discovered that the huns on the changes gears I bought and cannot return are too narrow and so I am going to make a little video on the repairoration of my restoration...I hope my little tricks won't get me laughed at too much, but I'm in one of those places were you can roll over and give up or try and work my way free.
I choose to be free of the cage that one eBay seller's greed has tried to trap me in, but I got my grinding wheel dresser and will make a nice sharp tool to broach some keyways into a stack of 843 brass thrust wahers I'm going to fixture together and got for it!
Hopefully it makes for some good video, thanks for sharing your video with us my friend, Aloha...Chucken bok-bok!
Hey Chuck,
You sure its 843 alloy? If they are gears they may be some other alloy. Where did that number come from?
Cheers,
Tom
oxtoolco I got the number from McMaster-Carr, and it is the brass(correction 841 BRONZE...Duh!) alloy of the thrust washers I am broaching to fit along side of the change gears of of the standard "Zamac" alloy I bought 2 moths ago but just discovered are too thin in the hubs to run properly on my lathe. So I got the thrust washers from McMaster-Carr to make double-keyway spacers out of their "thrust washer" section. The gears I bought are too thin in the hubs by .0625" per side, and so I am going to sandwich both 1/8" and 1/16th" spacers in-between the gears of a perfect diameter that matches the hubs and will ride on the double-keyway bushings and keep the gear teeth from interfering with one another when they form compound gear-trains.
I've attempted to get the seller to exchange the gears or refund me, but there isn't any leverage on my side since I took too long to notice that they were different from my OEM gears and are apparently the thinner ones with the same pitch and tooth count that Craftsman produced for their series of lathes. Oddly they ran when I formed simpler gear assemblies (hence with a heap of slop, but they stayed in-line during operation, probably due to the centrifugal forces of the spinning?), but when I want to run them compounded there will be trouble if they walk over on the bushing and grab hold of an oncoming gear.
I have put allot of thought into this and know it will "work", but I also know that these gears aren't going to be as strong as the OEM ones that are .500" at the hub and .375" at the tooth, sadly they are just paperweights to me if I don't use them, since I wouldn't want to sell them to someone knowing what I do and I cannot find any replacements or afford the NOS from Clausing.
I don't think I can do any harm to the Frankenlathe, and if the gears bust then "C'est la Vie", I'm no worse the wear and possibly can make a cool video about rising from adversity and meeting a challenge with a well(or at least long) thought through plan, and some hard work broaching those spacers. I do have a nice new grinder dresser to fine tune my wheels before making my broaching tool, so it will all be great education at the very minimum.
If There appears to be any lack of freedom in the rolling of the gears I won't implode my machine in any way, and it will just be a few washers the get hashed and leave me a bit wiser and with an odd HSS tool ;)
I'll send you some pictures through email in the morning when it's light so it becomes more clear as to what I intend, though I am certain you understand even with my limited vocabulary of terms.
Aloha and hoping you're having a great weekend...Chuck
When you know you are going to use two cameras in a shoot, once you start recording clap your hands once or twice so you can line them up in post, when you cut from one camera to another delete the audio from the go pro so that you only hear the audio from one mic, and the cameras are synced. Not sure if you have tried that but just throwing it out there.
Hey Max,
The current software I use does not support audio editing in context to the video. I have been using Windows live movie maker for everything. I am considering upgrading as you guys have shown you like what I'm doing here. Thanks for the comment and feedback.
Cheers,
Tom
oxtoolco No worries!
Enjoyed Tom, more subtle lessons for my peanut of a brain
Salted or unsalted?
Talk to you soon buddy.
Tom
Question for you Tom: Does ramping in like that let you cut the slot without a center cutting end mill or is that just the right way to do it even with one?
Hi Pest,
It allows you to cut in Z with a non center cutting tool. If it would have been center cutting I would have plunged unless it didn't behave for some reason. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Ahh excellent. I thought that might be the case. Thanks for confirming.
Beautiful looking metal, would seem a shame to paint it. And another "Oxism"! In the way of "it poofed out the bottom". That's another keeper. Cheers, Tom.
Hey Tom,
The steel arm will be painted black and the bronze will be unpainted so it pops with the black.
Cheers,
Tom
As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
Tom, Whats the brand of that small rule you use?
Hi Aaron,
I have two I carry nowdays. The old standby is a Starrett C-604RE and the flexible one is a C-334-150 with mm and 1/2mm on one side.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom,
With respect...I believe it is a frowned upon procedure to tap/hammer while on the surface plate.
Regards,
Eric
I'm fairly confident that Tom addressed this issue in the video. :-P
Yes, he did just a few moments after I posted the note. I probably should have waited to hear him talk. :-)
Thanks.
Eric
esoomreltna
I've done that too... ;-)
Hey Eric,
Premature commenter eh? You are correct. Tapping is one thing hammering is another. I have seen some brutal hammering done on a once nice plate. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
that aluminum bronze cuts a little strange tom . cant wait to see this etching press with being an artist its interesting
Hey Andy,
Its pretty tough stuff. It feels about like steel for many operations. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
saw seems to be jumping a bit
Andy Coakes Hey Andy,
Good spot. A couple teeth are knocked off somewhere on the blade. Its been on the saw since I shot the making a steady rest series. I think I got my moneys worth out of it.
Cheers,
Tom
i used to do that with my old band saw but my mum used to cut kindling and fire wood for the fire on it so i fitted a new blade and put the the guards back on it again shes in her 70s you know i sold it because she started using recycled saw dust and coke lol
Wish I chose this field over carpentry. I'd love to able to have my own shop like this doing contract work.
when you need to indicate the center of a piece you could always indicate between the vice jaws.
+Transane Hi Trans,
Yes that works as well. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
+oxtoolco Cheers Tom, I know for a fact you knew that... Just thought I would mention it for the less experienced people who happen to browse the comments. Keep up the amazing videos, I've been a fan for years and learned countless things from you and your channel.
OOPS, well I watched the video for a few more seconds and you addressed my comment.
Eric
Bozo math...was trying to do some of that last night setting up a taper...I guess I'll find out if I did it right when I got to try to cut it this weekend. Brain wasn't working too well converting decimals to 1/10,000ths. :-)
Nice video on matching up parts.
Hey Gopher,
That's why you have fingers. Tenths, hundredths, thousandths, ten thousandths, hundred thousandths, then you run out of fingers. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
What ho young Tom,
Thanks for the name check and you've got to admit it's a time saver. At least you do give a name check, unlike some! :>)
A Viewer
No, No, Don it can't be you, his Bozo actually visits him on an occasional basis .or so he would have you believe. Me. I think he lies about visits. :>)
ATB
chris
Chris Stephens I collecting for a ticket for Mr Bozo to take a trip to the UK. He seems to be on the no fly list for some reason.
Cheers,
Tom
Young Tom, keep your money for something else more important,,like chocolate ash trays for a motorcycle, The Bozo family of America is just a small off shoot of the European original and not all of them set out to colonise the the Americas. The main family is well settled in this country and have been for many a year. As you know there was a Mr Bozo in charge of Taxation policy, working for a certain King George,, which caused the rabble your side of the pond to go it alone.
History lesson courtesy of the Bozo family archives.
P.S.
No counter bore with the button heads
why would you use calibration and measuring equipment for marking ? bad habit
Hey Cannibal,
Not following you here. The fitting on the end of the height gage is called a scriber. It has no other function in life. You can't really measure with it only mark. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
oxtoolco
thanks my mistake just found your channel recently lookig to improve my knowledge
I instinctively blew at the monitor at 24:00...
Hey Yoonki,
That is pretty funny. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Wow. I just realized I have a granite square that I could use just like that and it's sitting in a little padded box. Time to bust that puppy out!
Those little angle blocks are really handy. I have a smaller one as well. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Yeah. I bought it specifically for calibrating my square master and I never thought it might have other uses lol! I've been struggling with a cylinder square for layout work like a rookie hahaha!
Hobby Machinist Tough to scribe a line with a cylinder square.
Cheers
--Tom
Great information, and machining! Thank you for sharing, Tom! :o]
O,,,
Great instructional video for us Bozo's. Why do you suppose Bronze acts the way it did with the drilling for the screw, because it heats up quickly and cools down just as quick or is it leaving a somewhat ragged edge. Keep in mind this question is submitted by a Bozo. LOL
Hi Eric,
When the flanks of a drill get a little worn they still cut fine in most materials. In bronze this is not the case. The drill kind of pushes through the material leaving an undersize hole typically. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom