***** Hey Max, I had to put all the goodies in the box. I couldn't find a wall strong enough to hang the entire board. Thanks again for the cool tool. All the best, Tom
Phew. So glad you're back, and without any scary stories about stints or clogged arteries or ambulance rides. It's OK if you skip a video but you have to warn us first! Great tips this week, and can't wait to see this thing mashing paper and ink.
That's my kind of work right there Tom. I like it. I too like to tack weld parts together for machining multiples. Use of the tool makers button is going to be interesting. I would have center drilled a small hole after finding the center location in the mill, and then indicated between centers. Always good to see how the pros do it. Adam
I like that you shared the spindle speed for the cutter. I'm not sure how much work that is to put into the video, but it would be helpful for novice machinists like me on future videos for reference. I like the videos, keep up the good work.
Bill De La Vega Hey Bill, It seems really smooth. I'm sure I could push it a lot harder. Need to keep experimenting with it. Inserts look untouched after all that milling. Cheers, Tom
YAY!! New Ox video! Was going through withdrawals lol. I've heard of toolmakers buttons, but have no idea what they are or what they do. Can't wait to see the next installment.
Hey Tom, I like the set up, there is only one problem, You Stopped in the middle of the stream and left us hanging. Looking forward to part 2. Thanks, Buddy
HI Tom, thanks for showing off the glacern machine tool face mill. ever since i stumbled onto their stuff in ebay i have been *really* curious as to how it performs. from what i can see in your video they do better than i would have thought. i run shell mill cutters on my bridgeport and get a chatter when the cutter first starts cutting and when it comes out of the cut. at first i thought it was my machine and that something in the spindle or backgear was worn out and might need replacement.. but after seeing and hearing your bridgeport clone making the exact same noise and having the same quieting as the cutter comes under full load, i realize now that there isn't anything wrong with my machine. can't wait to see the progression of this in the next video cheers mike
HolzMichel Hi Michael, The noise you hear is partly the drive system rattling and part drawbar flutter. Bigger tools tend to bring out the noisy bits in a milling machine. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hi Tom, Good to see you are back. I bet you were laughing when you ended your video on us. That little face mill works good, I like them because they are real solid. Waiting for the button, Cheers, Les
Les Foster Hey Les, Another viewer helped me name that tool. Since you are in the aviation field we decided to call it Les's propeller. So next time I use it you may hear me call it that. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Tom, Thanks for the video, missed seeing you last week. I have a 3" version of that facemill and it cuts very smooth. That's on a PM45 style bench mill too. Must be like butter on a big knee mill.
Dan Hughes Hi Dan, I'm very happy with this tool so far. I'm sure I could push it much harder if I wanted to. Need to play around with it some more. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Don't see many folks using 5-40 and other oddball sizes (3-xx, 12-xx, etc.) but sometimes it's what fits due to available clearances. Looking forward to remainder regarding tool buttons. I remember Guy Lautard explaining these years ago in his books and had a hard time understanding the usage for some reason. I'm sure you'll clear this up for me.
Keith Ward Hey Keith, Sorry to disappoint. Some machine screw sizes became more popular over the years. We have a good selection of #5 at work but that is because nobody uses them.... Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Do you need to level the top surface of that little cross bar so the button will be absolutely perpendicular to the workpiece? If it were tipped, different heights on the button would be at different locations in relation to the workpiece. Small differences, but if you are taking the trouble to use a button, you aren't satisfied with the precision available from just indicating on a center punch mark.
Peter W. Meek Hi Peter, You are correct that if the button is off axis it will not represent the true center well. This was an opportunity to show the concept of using a button to locate a hole off the machine. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Good three ways: (1) chips flying. I like chips flying (2) you are not dead, I was worried with no meatloaf last week and (3) Mrs Oxtools finally seeing some progress on her etching press.
i think i missed something. when you milled the sides how did you reference the hole to keep it centered? i didn't notice you taking any measurements from the sides to the hole. i would expect you would want the hole as close to center as possible.
larry sperling Hey Larry, I didn't really reference the hole other than grossly. It was already basically centered. In fact for the most part it was ignored in the location of the flats. I was after some symmetry with the curved cutouts. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Tom, I'm puzzled...I've seen you and others locate a hole using edge finders and a couple of divide-by-twos. You've even got nice parallel sides to reference from...why not this time? In the video it looks like the hole isn't actually centered, but measuring in from one edge would still locate it. Wouldn't that be good enough to get your spindle centered for boring? That face mill seems to be part fly cutter (the part where the chips "fly" everywhere!). I was picturing a brush shoe around it, like is used on CNC routers to keep the dust contained, but I guess that wouldn't let you see what you are doing very well, and I'm not sure that sucking hot chips into a plastic shop vac hose would be wise anyway. Ah well. Thanks for the interesting video! -- Mike
Follow on video had the answer...pretty tricky to use an edge finder in the lathe! At least as hard to use a marker to record the middle of a starter hole. Flame cut hole not smooth enough for a coaxial indicator. Toolmaker's buttons to the rescue! Thanks for the edumacation! -- Mike
Shouldn't you have rotated the center in your chuck to verify true center? If there was any run out in your chuck or your ground center your bore location would be incorrect, no?
bcbloc02 It doesn't have to be super accurate as he will adjust the button to be super accurate in the next step. The clearance in the hole in the button will be more than any likely run out.
Neat milling work. Why the odd shape, just for appearance? I am waiting to see you machine those curves. I know you can do it but I don't know how. I don't bother with drawings I just go straight for the Bozo, saves a lot of time. Thanks for the video.
cerberus If they are simple radi they could be done on a rotary table fairly easy. Perhaps he will use the autometric to generate a more complex form even. :-)
cerberus Hi Harold, The cutouts are to visually lighten the shape of the part. They do actually provide some clearance on the bottom but it is a secondary concern. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hey Tom, Like the retired ship captain said, "Long time, no sea!" I know you have been super busy, etc. I think it would be nice if you subtitled each segment. When you were doing the tack welds, the subtitle could have been: "Prepare for a tack!" (See? That's what happens when you are gone more than a week. I get a surplus of puns.) A 5-40 is a rather unusual size now days. It's usually 4-40 or 6-32. It will be interesting in the next part when you "button" things up! Thanks for the great video, as always! Have a good one! Dave
Swarf Rat Hey Dave, Did you get flashed when I tacked those parts? You know if your monitor is good if you see stars for a while. Thanks for the wisecracks. Best, Tom
Hi love th show. I have a question. I found a positive drive Chuck in a bunch of blacksmithing stuff I bought. What are these generally used for? Also mostly used in drill press? Mill? Lathe? Thank you very much for any help you can provide. If you want a photo please tell me how or where you would like to receive it. If your interested.
Joe Halas Hi Joe, Shoot me an email with a picture. My email address is at the beginning of my videos on the whiteboard or on the screen. But you knew that already. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
dans-hobbies Hey Dan, Good question. I think ebay and flea markets are your best bet. You can make your own using drill bushings or small bearing races. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Morning Tom from the UK, I enjoy all you excellent Videos. Remember when you did the Heavy Duty Steady Rest, you said we would see what project it was made for. Has that been put on hold? Anyway keep up the good work. Best Wishes David
Toolmakers Buttons are becoming a forgotten techique. It's about time they come out of the drawer and onto UA-cam. I kept staring at your cooling mister soda bottle being rendered useless by your blue hot chips. I think it made it through the bombardment.
I have a small Aciera F3 machine, where i run 3 inserts holder of that type. When maxing out the rpm at 1500 and max travel the machine can handle it still can shave a good 4mm / pass. I think you could take alot deeper cuts actually. Even flattened a piece of railway with one of those . =)
Moronicsmurf Hi Smurf, I agree that this tool could be pushed much harder than I did. Just getting to know it now before I twist its arm a bit. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Tom, as you know, Brown and Sharpe are (or at least, were) an English firm. When they made those buttons and looked for a mounting screw they would have done as all Englishmen did back then, and used a Whitworth screw. In this case it was 1/8" W. A 1/8" W screw has a major diameter of 1/8" and a thread pitch of 40 tpi. That exactly matches a 5-40 UNC screw, with one important difference. As I am sure you know, UNC threads have a thread angle of 60 degrees, while Whitworth stuff has a thread angle of 55 degrees. This means that a Whitworth screw of any "major" size (i.e. starting at 1/8" and going upwards in increments of 1/16", up to at least 1") can be screwed into a UNC nut of the corresponding diameter. The reverse is NOT true; a UNC screw cannot be screwed into a Whitworth nut of the same diameter, no matter how large a screwdriver or spanner you have. Compare the tables side by side and you will see what I mean. I imagine that you and countless numbers of your countrymen have thought "I wonder what thread that is? Looks coarse, maybe it's UNC? Yeah, that's it; 5-40 it is. I wonder why in the hell they chose that size. Oh well, it works, and that's what is important, and besides, I ain't got time for mysteries today..." If you can find a 1/8" W nut you should find that the button mounting screw will fit that neatly, and a 5-40 UNC screw will not. That will prove or disprove my hypothesis. So sometimes there's a reason for everything, if that makes sense.
+Greg Brodie-Tyrrell Hey Greg, I think you got your Brown and Sharpes mixed up which casts a little doubt on your Whitworth theory. Check Wikipedia and you will see its always been an American company. The screw fit a 5-40 tapped hole fine. 5-40 is just not a common thread size we encounter these days. I think the old timers made more use of all the sizes instead of "preferred" sizes. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
+oxtoolco Well I'll stand stuffed. And corrected. But you hafta admit it was a nice hypothesis, even if totally wrong. :( Just goes to show that what you think you know is often not correct.
+Greg Brodie-Tyrrell Hey Greg, One of my favorites is "Fake it till you make it" Its worked wonders for me over the years. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hi mate. At first, I thought, That is some serious work, but than I realised, That on this press you have done some more beefy machining. These bearing holders are just peanuts compared to the other stuff you have done on it. I love to see, that even with all your expensive tools, you still use the cheapest tools in your arsenal, the little screwdriver. Oh by the way, that was a rotten trick, to hook us in, and than end the clip. Way crewel. Marcel. Ps. Thanks for putting the millimetres on screen, I'm starting to understand he inches a little better now.
Just got to the best bit, & it went off!! Doh""" tel me it's not going to be next week" :{( joking apart, ace video, nice to sit & relax too. Thank again Tom.
Just in time to nullify that hilariously scathing instagram comment. Something about a "youtube princess shop". :D Yours ain't no princess shop but hell, I laughed.
What ho young Tom, you might not be wearing the IOM TT T-shirt this year but at least you have the sticker on your helmet. Good to see you working, at last.:>) ATB c
Thanks for wearing dirty, used TIG gloves in your videos. So many people seem to reserve a bright white pair for their video appearances, and they make me worry that I need to add another thing to the list of things I'm doing wrong.
Randy McWhirter If you mean going into real machining and technique that Tom is capable instead of the lots of "show and tell" we got served lately, I kind of agree... ;-) Don't we look for that precious knowledge that Tom is a great source...???
You are such a tease. You tell us this is the fun part and the video ends on a cliff hanger. Looking forward to the rest.
Bruce
Good stuff... Loving the Steve McQueen poster... On any Sunday - hands down my favorite documentary... Thanks Tom
ScoutCrafter Hey John,
Always nice to see a comment from you. Thanks for stopping by.
Best,
Tom
By far, aside from the Autometric work, this is my favorite series from you. Always happy to see something about the press in the video box :)
Im enjoying the return to the older style video's.
Thanks for Sharing Tom, great video
Seeing the nokker board in the background brought a huge smile to my face :)
***** Hey Max,
I had to put all the goodies in the box. I couldn't find a wall strong enough to hang the entire board. Thanks again for the cool tool.
All the best,
Tom
Most Esteemed Mr. Wizard,
Thanks for sharing your many talents. Good to see a machining video.
Chuck.
Phew. So glad you're back, and without any scary stories about stints or clogged arteries or ambulance rides. It's OK if you skip a video but you have to warn us first! Great tips this week, and can't wait to see this thing mashing paper and ink.
Thomas Utley Hey Tom,
No worries. Have to build up some anticipation once in a while. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, I like toolmaker's buttons, and use them sometimes. I thought this was a forgotten art. Many thanks for an interesting video.
That's my kind of work right there Tom. I like it. I too like to tack weld parts together for machining multiples. Use of the tool makers button is going to be interesting. I would have center drilled a small hole after finding the center location in the mill, and then indicated between centers. Always good to see how the pros do it.
Adam
Abom79 Hey Adam,
Wish we were working side by side. That would be a blast! Thanks for stopping by.
Talk to you soon buddy.
Tom
its about time you started working on the press glad your on it again
richard
I like that you shared the spindle speed for the cutter. I'm not sure how much work that is to put into the video, but it would be helpful for novice machinists like me on future videos for reference. I like the videos, keep up the good work.
Sqwince23 Hi Squince,
I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Loving the camera work on this one! Can't wait to see more machining on these large bearing housings.
Yay, toolmaker's button!!! Great episode, thanks! Daniel
Awesome work Tom , We enjoyed it .. Were on to part 2 man ..!!
Great stuff here Tom, looking forward to this part of the etching press project!
Regards,
Ray
Ray Caniglia Hey Ray,
Thanks for stopping by. Always nice to hear from the brotherhood.
Cheers,
Tom
Good tips. Looking forward to the next segment. I've seen buttons before, but never seen how they are used.
Hogging great chunks of iron.
My favorite thing to do.
Thanks
John
Nice camera work Tom! The close up shots with the face mill were very nice.
-Mark
Excellent video Tom. I'm looking forward to the rest of the parts. However I'm suffering meatloaf withdrawal.
Sam
Sam DeVault I was just getting ready to say the same thing, hoping to see more meatloafs too.
Sam DeVault Hey Sam,
Got a batch of meatloaf cooking now. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
That glacern face mill seems to work good with those inserts. Looking forward to the tool maker's buttons.
Bill De La Vega Hey Bill,
It seems really smooth. I'm sure I could push it a lot harder. Need to keep experimenting with it. Inserts look untouched after all that milling.
Cheers,
Tom
YAY!! New Ox video! Was going through withdrawals lol. I've heard of toolmakers buttons, but have no idea what they are or what they do. Can't wait to see the next installment.
Just like the big networks! Leave us hanging right when we're getting to a good part! Lol. Great video as always. Thx.
very nice work, great video. great info and old school tips and tricks. thanks for sharing.
Been dying to learn of the progress of this etching press, so I'm so happy about this video! Can't wait to see more 😄
Neat trick for locating the center.
Jim
Thanks for another great video. Looking forward to part 2...
Hey Tom, I like the set up, there is only one problem, You Stopped in the middle of the stream and left us hanging. Looking forward to part 2.
Thanks, Buddy
HI Tom,
thanks for showing off the glacern machine tool face mill. ever since i stumbled onto their stuff in ebay i have been *really* curious as to how it performs. from what i can see in your video they do better than i would have thought.
i run shell mill cutters on my bridgeport and get a chatter when the cutter first starts cutting and when it comes out of the cut. at first i thought it was my machine and that something in the spindle or backgear was worn out and might need replacement.. but after seeing and hearing your bridgeport clone making the exact same noise and having the same quieting as the cutter comes under full load, i realize now that there isn't anything wrong with my machine.
can't wait to see the progression of this in the next video
cheers
mike
HolzMichel Hi Michael,
The noise you hear is partly the drive system rattling and part drawbar flutter. Bigger tools tend to bring out the noisy bits in a milling machine. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom, Good to see you are back. I bet you were laughing when you ended your video on us. That little face mill works good, I like them because they are real solid. Waiting for the button, Cheers, Les
Les Foster Hey Les,
Another viewer helped me name that tool. Since you are in the aviation field we decided to call it Les's propeller. So next time I use it you may hear me call it that. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom,
Thanks for the video, missed seeing you last week. I have a 3" version of that facemill and it cuts very smooth. That's on a PM45 style bench mill too. Must be like butter on a big knee mill.
Dan Hughes Hi Dan,
I'm very happy with this tool so far. I'm sure I could push it much harder if I wanted to. Need to play around with it some more. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Good video. Missed you. Good to see you back.
LaVern
These are the types of videos I subscribed for in the first place :)
Don't see many folks using 5-40 and other oddball sizes (3-xx, 12-xx, etc.) but sometimes it's what fits due to available clearances. Looking forward to remainder regarding tool buttons. I remember Guy Lautard explaining these years ago in his books and had a hard time understanding the usage for some reason. I'm sure you'll clear this up for me.
Keith Ward Hey Keith,
Sorry to disappoint. Some machine screw sizes became more popular over the years. We have a good selection of #5 at work but that is because nobody uses them.... Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
oxtoolco No disappointment here Tom, I use #5 fairly often as well.
Hey Tom, Good video. I like that face mill.
Matt C.
As always, interesting and great lessons!
outsidescrewball Hey Chuck,
Thanks for stopping by. Always good to hear from you.
Best,
Tom
Do you need to level the top surface of that little cross bar so the button will be absolutely perpendicular to the workpiece? If it were tipped, different heights on the button would be at different locations in relation to the workpiece. Small differences, but if you are taking the trouble to use a button, you aren't satisfied with the precision available from just indicating on a center punch mark.
Peter W. Meek Hi Peter,
You are correct that if the button is off axis it will not represent the true center well. This was an opportunity to show the concept of using a button to locate a hole off the machine. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I've been wondering if you were going to finish the etching press.
Oh man! When's part 2 coming??
Good three ways: (1) chips flying. I like chips flying (2) you are not dead, I was worried with no meatloaf last week and (3) Mrs Oxtools finally seeing some progress on her etching press.
Pat Farrell Hey Pat,
Does that mean a home run? Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
i think i missed something. when you milled the sides how did you reference the hole to keep it centered? i didn't notice you taking any measurements from the sides to the hole. i would expect you would want the hole as close to center as possible.
larry sperling Hey Larry,
I didn't really reference the hole other than grossly. It was already basically centered. In fact for the most part it was ignored in the location of the flats. I was after some symmetry with the curved cutouts. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, I'm puzzled...I've seen you and others locate a hole using edge finders and a couple of divide-by-twos. You've even got nice parallel sides to reference from...why not this time? In the video it looks like the hole isn't actually centered, but measuring in from one edge would still locate it. Wouldn't that be good enough to get your spindle centered for boring?
That face mill seems to be part fly cutter (the part where the chips "fly" everywhere!). I was picturing a brush shoe around it, like is used on CNC routers to keep the dust contained, but I guess that wouldn't let you see what you are doing very well, and I'm not sure that sucking hot chips into a plastic shop vac hose would be wise anyway. Ah well.
Thanks for the interesting video!
-- Mike
Follow on video had the answer...pretty tricky to use an edge finder in the lathe! At least as hard to use a marker to record the middle of a starter hole. Flame cut hole not smooth enough for a coaxial indicator. Toolmaker's buttons to the rescue!
Thanks for the edumacation!
-- Mike
Shouldn't you have rotated the center in your chuck to verify true center? If there was any run out in your chuck or your ground center your bore location would be incorrect, no?
bcbloc02 It doesn't have to be super accurate as he will adjust the button to be super accurate in the next step. The clearance in the hole in the button will be more than any likely run out.
Neat milling work. Why the odd shape, just for appearance? I am waiting to see you machine those curves. I know you can do it but I don't know how. I don't bother with drawings I just go straight for the Bozo, saves a lot of time. Thanks for the video.
cerberus If they are simple radi they could be done on a rotary table fairly easy. Perhaps he will use the autometric to generate a more complex form even. :-)
cerberus Hi Harold,
The cutouts are to visually lighten the shape of the part. They do actually provide some clearance on the bottom but it is a secondary concern. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
GREAT VIDEO . SEE DISCUSSION ?
Hey Tom,
Like the retired ship captain said, "Long time, no sea!" I know you have been super busy, etc. I think it would be nice if you subtitled each segment. When you were doing the tack welds, the subtitle could have been: "Prepare for a tack!" (See? That's what happens when you are gone more than a week. I get a surplus of puns.) A 5-40 is a rather unusual size now days. It's usually 4-40 or 6-32. It will be interesting in the next part when you "button" things up! Thanks for the great video, as always!
Have a good one!
Dave
Swarf Rat Hey Dave,
Did you get flashed when I tacked those parts? You know if your monitor is good if you see stars for a while. Thanks for the wisecracks.
Best,
Tom
Hi love th show. I have a question. I found a positive drive Chuck in a bunch of blacksmithing stuff I bought. What are these generally used for? Also mostly used in drill press? Mill? Lathe? Thank you very much for any help you can provide. If you want a photo please tell me how or where you would like to receive it. If your interested.
Joe Halas Hi Joe,
Shoot me an email with a picture. My email address is at the beginning of my videos on the whiteboard or on the screen. But you knew that already. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Cool coincidence: a pilot gave you that cutter head, and it sounds like a prop driven airplane at work.
Kevin Hornbuckle Hey Kevin,
That it funny! Les's propeller. I think that tool has a new name.
Best,
Tom
Tom,
Do you know if buttons are still sold? I checked Starrett and I couldn't find them.
dans-hobbies Hey Dan,
Good question. I think ebay and flea markets are your best bet. You can make your own using drill bushings or small bearing races. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Very good video.
As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
Any update on this?
Do you where I could find that facemill online?
I'm pretty sure Carbidedepot stocks them online. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks Tom.
Morning Tom from the UK,
I enjoy all you excellent Videos. Remember when you did the Heavy Duty Steady Rest, you said we would see what project it was made for. Has that been put on hold?
Anyway keep up the good work.
Best Wishes
David
David Clements Hi David,
The steady rest is for the etching press project. Its for the main rolls of the machine. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Toolmakers Buttons are becoming a forgotten techique.
It's about time they come out of the drawer and onto UA-cam.
I kept staring at your cooling mister soda bottle being rendered useless by your blue hot chips. I think it made it through the bombardment.
Einar S Hi Einar,
Its far enough away that the chips seem to slide right off it. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I have a small Aciera F3 machine, where i run 3 inserts holder of that type. When maxing out the rpm at 1500 and max travel the machine can handle it still can shave a good 4mm / pass. I think you could take alot deeper cuts actually.
Even flattened a piece of railway with one of those . =)
Moronicsmurf Hi Smurf,
I agree that this tool could be pushed much harder than I did. Just getting to know it now before I twist its arm a bit. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, as you know, Brown and Sharpe are (or at least, were) an English firm. When they made those buttons and looked for a mounting screw they would have done as all Englishmen did back then, and used a Whitworth screw. In this case it was 1/8" W.
A 1/8" W screw has a major diameter of 1/8" and a thread pitch of 40 tpi. That exactly matches a 5-40 UNC screw, with one important difference. As I am sure you know, UNC threads have a thread angle of 60 degrees, while Whitworth stuff has a thread angle of 55 degrees. This means that a Whitworth screw of any "major" size (i.e. starting at 1/8" and going upwards in increments of 1/16", up to at least 1") can be screwed into a UNC nut of the corresponding diameter. The reverse is NOT true; a UNC screw cannot be screwed into a Whitworth nut of the same diameter, no matter how large a screwdriver or spanner you have. Compare the tables side by side and you will see what I mean.
I imagine that you and countless numbers of your countrymen have thought "I wonder what thread that is? Looks coarse, maybe it's UNC? Yeah, that's it; 5-40 it is. I wonder why in the hell they chose that size. Oh well, it works, and that's what is important, and besides, I ain't got time for mysteries today..."
If you can find a 1/8" W nut you should find that the button mounting screw will fit that neatly, and a 5-40 UNC screw will not. That will prove or disprove my hypothesis.
So sometimes there's a reason for everything, if that makes sense.
+Greg Brodie-Tyrrell Hey Greg,
I think you got your Brown and Sharpes mixed up which casts a little doubt on your Whitworth theory. Check Wikipedia and you will see its always been an American company. The screw fit a 5-40 tapped hole fine. 5-40 is just not a common thread size we encounter these days. I think the old timers made more use of all the sizes instead of "preferred" sizes. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
+oxtoolco Well I'll stand stuffed. And corrected.
But you hafta admit it was a nice hypothesis, even if totally wrong. :(
Just goes to show that what you think you know is often not correct.
+Greg Brodie-Tyrrell Hey Greg,
One of my favorites is "Fake it till you make it" Its worked wonders for me over the years. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Chips flying, GREAT!!! Cliffhanger, not so much.
Hi mate.
At first, I thought, That is some serious work, but than I realised, That on this press you have done some more beefy machining. These bearing holders are just peanuts compared to the other stuff you have done on it.
I love to see, that even with all your expensive tools, you still use the cheapest tools in your arsenal, the little screwdriver.
Oh by the way, that was a rotten trick, to hook us in, and than end the clip. Way crewel.
Marcel.
Ps. Thanks for putting the millimetres on screen, I'm starting to understand he inches
a little better now.
Marcel Timmers Hey Marcel,
That little screwdriver is one of my most used tools. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Just got to the best bit, & it went off!! Doh""" tel me it's not going to be next week" :{( joking apart, ace video, nice to sit & relax too. Thank again Tom.
Thanks Tom! Enjoyed it much!
O,,,
glad to see you back, missed you ...
thanks for the video ....
What a cliffhanger ;-)
Very nice...thanks!
Just in time to nullify that hilariously scathing instagram comment. Something about a "youtube princess shop". :D Yours ain't no princess shop but hell, I laughed.
What ho young Tom, you might not be wearing the IOM TT T-shirt this year but at least you have the sticker on your helmet.
Good to see you working, at last.:>)
ATB
c
Chris Stephens Hey Chris,
Thanks for your concern. I have not managed to dig down in my tee shirt layers to reach the IOM shirt.
All the best,
Tom
Oh well there is always next year.
In case you missed it, Guy Martin got a third, 2 fourths and a DNF
Not doing Meatloaf anymore?
Interesting.
what kind of gloves are you wearing. Thanks! Great video!
Robert Engl Hi Robert,
Check out my FAQ video for details on the gloves. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks for wearing dirty, used TIG gloves in your videos. So many people seem to reserve a bright white pair for their video appearances, and they make me worry that I need to add another thing to the list of things I'm doing wrong.
DID I HEAR YOUR WIFE SAY " IS IT DONE (( YET )) " ?? (((((( LOL )))))) !!
first good video
Randy McWhirter Hey Randy,
Are you saying this is my first good video? Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Randy McWhirter first (comment) , good video
Yeah, just shows how important proper punctuation can be! It's the difference between, "John, don't! Stop!" and, "John, don't stop!"
-- Mike
Bit lost at your comment bud!!!! (First good video) Toms the best in the business, must be a hundred out there, all top quality educational videos.
Randy McWhirter If you mean going into real machining and technique that Tom is capable instead of the lots of "show and tell" we got served lately, I kind of agree... ;-)
Don't we look for that precious knowledge that Tom is a great source...???