As a plumber for over 20 years , I recommend using silicone caulk, cause it's a tighter fit to the top of the sink, putty dissolves alot from the hot water over time
Thank you. I've resealed my basket strainer 4 times and even a plumber resealed it. Now I'm doing it again. I just figured it was regular maintenance twice a year. I was ready to call a welder. I am so glad you as a plumber suggested this method. Thank you.
As a plumber for over 30 years, I just fixed someone else's botched plumbing job where they used silicone to set the drain. It leaked a lot. I had to remove their silicone which is a very difficult job by itself. If they had done it right I wouldn't have had to do this otherwise very simple and easy task. Don't use silicone to set a drain.
An air tank with a $30 Harbor Freight air hammer & short punch work great in confined locations. A slight trigger squeeze knocks the pot metal ring (Or Brass) loose and spray a penetrating lube on it. The threads are cut very loose even on new ones. Stainless steel in sinks, brass w/cover in shower drains purchased December 2022 from "Sioux Chief" provides instructions to use 100% silicone on the wet side (an colors like almond) but the bottom gets the black seal, followed by a thick plastic backer ring that reduces effort, rubber ring distortion and makes it easy to install. If needed, vise grips on a short punch can be used with a hammer if room for all, light provided on the ear / tab only as it needs moved about an 1" (1cm) then unscrews by hand. If it binds, tap it gently as I mentioned, the threads are cut very loose. Silicone needs 2-4 hours to set & start curing, but have the wet side fully seated. 24 hours to full cure but waiting 2 hrs will give it a chance to bond, just hold it still with open needle nose pliers and a screwdriver if needed & you have a helper. But new one use 100% silicone on top. Unlike the nasty comment made by a stock-holder in plumbers putty industry! DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, retired (I fix all of our home problems)
Silicone is best. I did my bar sink with it 15 years ago and still no leaks. My kitchen guy used plumber’s putty upstais and it leaks a year later. Im going to do it over myself with silicone.
Trust me. I don't leak. You don't have to wait overnight, it would be best practice but not required. Use Supreme GE silicone and 99% alcohol for cleaning and you will be very happy. Thats my method. Proven true over 100 times and counting. Also no wobbles of drain, important for a disposer!
It usually comes with a cardboard ring, but it often gets thrown away. You can make one pretty easily. It's definitely necessary to keep the rubber from twisting against the metal ring.
I am trying the silicone this time, last time i used plumbers putty but its leaking again. This method seems best as long as the silicone is cured over 12-24 hours.
Used putty in a new sink I installed 5 years ago. Started leaking 6 months ago. Saw this video and put a new strainer in using silicone. Puddy never dies I noticed and kept creeping into sink.
Ooo ooo! I'm gonna try Painter's tape around the threads, so the excess doesn't get on them. If you wait overnight for it to cure, aren't you risking gaps in your seal? I'd be more inclined to tighten before curing so there's a seamless connection between the two pieces (giving it a better chance of creating a perfect seal).
@@phloggo2976 This is great to know. I used putty but it was hard to fully tighten. I like the idea of this curing (which I think how the builder did it now that I see the other drain). With the putty, I haven't been able to fully fully tighten and I just feel the silicone may be better. So I might have to redo this tomorrow.
Just put in a new bathroom vanity and sink and the directions said to use silicone NOT plumbers putty. Against my instincts I used the silicone and a day later when I finished the job and tried the sink it leaked like a sieve! Now I have to scrape off the silicone and use the putty😕
Silicone is better, IF it's done carefully. IF it's done carefully. It does not remain in it's place until sqeeze happens. If anything is allowed to move when lower nut is being tightened then you may have an issue. It's a learned skill. And I do still prefer Silicone. Lasts longer and is cleaner more professional finish on top side.
Going to disagree on this one. I am repairing the tailpieces for two kitchen sinks in rental units right now. Both are 10+ years old..one used silicone and the other plumbers putty. Both baskets spun a bit when undoing the tailpiece..the silicone broke and formed leaks. The plumber's putty remains complaint and remained leak free even though both baskets spun at least 180 degrees each. Now I have to redo the basket with the silicone. The one with plumbers putty is already finished and working..no leaks.
It’s hard to argue with real results, there’s another idea though. I haven’t tried it, but they sell a silicone ring that is precast. To me this seems like a really good possibility because it would be a little bit thicker. Next time I really wanna try the precast solution. I haven’t looked at any reviews but it seems like a good possibility. With both silicone or plumbers putty if the material gets squeezed out too much the both Leak. My only concern about the precast is that it may Bring the basket too high. Hope you get everything fixed up👍👍
@@livefree6878 Ooooo. I might go looking for that. I am also going to try one of these baskets that has the screws instead of the large nut/ring that connects the basket to the drain/hole. Pricey..but beats making my 12" channel locks pretend they are 16" channel locks to get that nut undone.
I like putty myself but as soon as you spin the baskets, the old seal is questionable, and needs to be redone. You got lucky with the putty this time, but that's a gamble with a call back.
This is great to see how it is done! You make it look so easy. I could not figure how to loosen the pipe nut, but I see here it needs to be turned clockwise to unscrew, which is different than the "righty tighty, lefty loosy" principle. I heard caulk tends to trap mold, so i wonder if it may present issues later.
I tried the rubber gasket on top but the basket stands proud from the indent slightly. Ill move the rubber seal to the bottom and use silicone on both sides.
Silicone is great if you have 24 hours to let it cure. Otherwise putty is the way to go. Use about a 3/8 diameter and press down evenly by hand. Trick: Set putty with just the nut first, no rubber gasket...do not over-tighten! Then replace nut and rubber ring just snug. No leaks. Next job.
Yeah, thats because thats what its for. If you look close the rubber binds with the tighten ring underneath and moves out of center. The lower should only have a slippery ring of something like dense cardboard to allow the ring to tighten the rubber gasket on the top side. No need for overnight wait this way. But i do love her technique since thats how u do oil pan gaskets for some automakers. If it works for a pressured system it will definitely work for a drain system.
Wow the diagram on mine literally said to use the rubber gasket below the sink and I've been having so much trouble with silicone trying to get a seal. Finally gave up and read this comment, switched the gasket to up top, cranked it down, and bam no more leaks. Update: No Leaks! Although the drain basket is just slightly too high for the water to drain all the way, and the crevice between the basket and the sink catches food. Probably just going to try some putty at some point soon.
@@brianmuir9791 yeah use silicone to replace gasket. It will let u eliminate the bump up it causes. Silicone for this is ideal but tricky tho. You have to really juice the sink side and sorta hold it roughly in one place as you tighten the lower nut. Use pipe thread sealant on threads on the entire shaft. It helps with the nut turning easily not really with sealing. Trust me I do about 15 of these a week with every type of pop up assembly you can imagine. Also sometimes the bottom of the sink has irregularities and if you put silicone on it before the process I mention it will prevent a leak. Cultured marble thats not uncommon.
Silicone is a bad idea if you need to get it back off some day coming from a plumber I do t recommend it some time have to cut it out with a Sawzall plumbers putty been doing the job for a long time
How about for granite composite sinks? I know there is a stain free plumbers putty to prevent it from staining, but does that work or is silicone better for those situations?
The silicone will work but if you ever need to change it again thats when it bites you in the ass ! Silicone acts like glue , plumbers putty stay more flexible, unless its 50 yrs old but it will still come apart ..
I was looking at new sink wastes today and from what I see here in the UK, they come with a rubber or foam ring to place where you have applied silicone and previously used putty.
They come that way over here in North America too ! Problem is most plumbing videos are yesterdays plumbing and you hit the the nail on the head when you said you were looking at NEW SINK WASTES. I just purchased a new kitchen double sink and the design of the strainer assembly eliminates a lot of yesterday blues. You can maybe get the idea by watching this video. . . ua-cam.com/video/NAABLpTzozo/v-deo.html
Never use silicon. It dries and becomes a leaking hazard. Using the proper type of putty will always give you a proper seal. Just ask Rich T. from TOH. He always uses putty.
YUCK. Okay, thank you. After I moved in, I found a rusty cake pan was the fix my landlord went with. That's a theme that plucks my nerves. When my temporary fix gives out, I'll fix it right. He'd put a pan under there, say it's fine & blame me for the leak.
@fartpoobox ohyeah I am open minded. But in the service field. I must ask that your product meet a few of my requests. 1 easily workable and clean up. Nothing special needed 2. The gap between sink and basket flange is not increased to cause water to pool and turn sink black. 3. Immediately testable with full sinks of hot water. 4. Last as long as the basket 5. Easy clean up when 15-20 year mark hits so your product doesn’t stick and cause scratches when cleaning sink in prep for new basket. Customers change them to change more often than they leak kind of product. Seriously open to your new way. But not silicone. That way is older than I. So I am left wondering. Anything that makes my day go faster without call backs is all I reach for. I openly back every product with labor. If the manufacture says it should “x” amount of time. And I purchase that for you? I back it labor. So my customers of 17 years solo business without a dime in advertising can rest assured. It may not be the Taj Mahal but by golly it will work as long as it’s intended too. So please enlighten me with something newer and better.
Lexel. Ive been silicone harper but my goodness Lexel is amazing. Anyone that is concerned about 15 to 20 years from now doesn't make sense. The entire sink, faucet, drain and cabinet will be replaced before that.
@@pjplumber2146 exactly, what is this lady teaching? I fix sinks that people tried using silicone. They put the rubber gasket under the basket🤣, oh food collector and stinky. She should continue with her bs saying to install flex pipe and S trap. 👀😂🤣
I'm a Pipefitter and both the contractor and the plumber are wrong. You weld that FN thing, whatever the hell is called, in place and never touch it ever again.
@@realchicagophill lol that would be awesome if possible. We have porcelain and acrylic and marble kinda of material to attach baskets too. Most of us can weld. Even less can weld good enough for your wife to accept her kitchen sink looking like that. 🤣
GREAT! I'm replacing my bathroom sink drain & the old one had gobs of putty. I was concerned because I only have silicone sealant but no putty. Thanks also for the advice to let it cure overnight.
My new delta faucet calls for silicone and no plumbers putty in the directions. I thought drains always used putty but I’m no plumber and Delta disagrees with it for some reason. I did notice on the plumbers putty label when I looked it’s not compatible with plastic or materials like granite and other stones. So maybe that’s why delta recommends silicone.
35 years in trade dont think i ever used silicone on a kitchen strainer . had a few problems witth putty mainly from using way too much. i have used silicone on a tub drain and a couple of lavs that had glass sinks. ive used silicode on shower drains for fiberglas shower pans.. just little tricks in doing the work to get good results
We do this too at my job, but they silicon the bottom rubber part snug under the sink drain in bathrooms, and they silicon the threads in the P-trap. Yes, you can do this, but it also is a permanent solution I feel. And that’s not user-friendly for the customer or the next plumber to get there.
Okay, it's not calk or calking, it's silicone. Calking is water based. I use plumbers putty because as you tighten, you can watch it ooz out, showing a perfect seal. Silicone is not going to give you that visual security
Yes. I used putty as per instructions when I replaced my garbage disposal back in 2013. No issues at all with leaks or seepage. I hand tightened it until the putty oozed out. When I look at the drain from the top it looks very even to me.
@@maryannerunkel164 The first thing i would try if it were my sink is to use a pipe wrench that is big enough to engage the bottom threads of the strainer after removing the flange nut that holds the strainer in place. I would very carefully try to twist in both directions on the strainer treads to break the bond of the silicone to the sink..The decision is yours to make if you do this. I am just telling you what I would do with my own sink. As an example I had to remove an undermount sink set in silicone. I had to use an electric turkey knife to cut thru the silicone to remove it.
@@gary24752 Yikes! Thanks for the advice. I have tried to cut around the silicone on the top and even used a hammer! to try and get the basket out. I am currently waiting for mineral spirits to hopefully loose the silicone. I'm replacing the basket because it is rusty on top. So much for my easy DIY.
@@maryannerunkel164 Doubtful mineral spirits will work but I would try WD-40 which is a penetrate and let it sit over night otherwise I would go back to using a 12 inch channel lock wrench to twist the treads on the strainer body (underneath the sink) back and forth to try to break the bond maybe in combination with the WD-40. You are going to need either a special wrench or the 12 inch channel lock anyways to get the pipe connections off. They have stuff at a counter supply for this purpose but I try to stay away from that chemical stuff for obvious reasons and if you have an enamel sink I would worry about it affecting the color. They use silicone for gaskets so heat will not affect it either once it is cured. I do not recommend using screw drivers, hammers, sharp instruments, etc. as they may damage the surface of the sink no matter what it is made of especially ones that are enameled. Once you chip or scratch that finish rust will start. Just out of curiosity can I assume that the strainer is stainless steel? Why not try a grey scuff pad from Home Depot and some Bar Keeper's cleaner to remove the rust after spraying some WD-40 on it. Scrub in one direction only. You might find it will come off and would be a whole lot cheaper that buying a new strainer and if you do get it a Ace Hardware. The stuff at HomeDepot and Leows are not of good quality as far as I am concerned and stay away from the plastic ones. Be prepared for more than one trip to the hardware store. Hopefully if you have a dishwasher hooked up to it the pipe will be in good condition. The pipes and the hose connection from the dishwasher are not always one size fits all. The outside diameter of the hose nib may be 3/4 but the inside dimeter of the rubber connector on the end of the DW hose is more like 7/8. Ask me how I know. This requires soldering a 3/4" copper coupling to the nib in order to attach the hose from the dishwasher which is a real pain due to the nickel coating on the pipe.
Cut the old lock nut off ( hammer and flathead or grinder w metal blade) once the lock nut is off tap the old strainer out and replace it with a new one no big head aches
Guys my drain came with two rubber gaskets which, I presume, should be placed on top and below the sink hole/flange; MY QUESTION IS, DO I STILL NEED SILICONE?
The thing came without instructions; by the way I installed it without silicone and it leaked straight away!! So I took it off and put silicone and it's now working fine. Thanks for your answer/feedback
Both: The silicone above (substituted for plumber's putty) creates the watertight seal. The rubber gasket below isn't there as much for a seal as much as it is to distribute the force of the nut on the sink.
my plumber is like u but I realize that is not the best cause I detected a mold odor. I thought it was in the tubes "Y" but black stuff started to appear around the edge of the baskets. That means the smell is coming from where he affixed the baskets with plumbers party to the sink. SIlicone is better.
We?(Cats and I)Decided?(my opinion) Cut off? (With what if u don't mind me asking?) ....bc I don't have a proper tool to use and broke one tab or cut off already. Very nice prep 👍. Hardest and most important. What was the torque specs on that silicone? Over night . My wife might get suspicious why I keep returning to ♀️ 's homes to fix leaky sink basket. You don't like top hats? Did we use fiber washers so not to pinch rubber a year ago?... Sry for being rude just wanted to put out a warning. Love u
There will always be a debate over plumbers putty or silicone. My brother in law is a plumber and says use only putty my cousin is also a plumber and says use silicone only .
After using putty for four sink leaks in the past two years (yes replaced almost all parts) - I'm giving up on putty. It seems to leak sooner rather than later for us. Silicone is the next try.
DONT USE SILICONE, when the day comes to remove it have fun, you will end up replacing the sink as it wont come apart. Use plumbers putty and it will last over 20 years.
My ex-husband showed me how to fix the drip under my kitchen sink from the drain with plumbers putty when I bought my house. Not a year later the leak returned - the exhusband did not 😉 I bought Kwik seal before watching the video, however, every step she instructed I did. Perfection! Thank you!
So you’re saying you hate silicone? Please tell me where in the code book says that silicone is Not permissible, because I would love to know where to use against my peers. I honestly hate silicone.
@Dayn A I'm just saying i like using other stuff. To each his/her own. "In life, go with what works for you". If the homeowner uses that sink before it cures, you're gonna have a mess to redo. Oh the joy of plumbing. D, my job requires finished and ready to use when I walk out the door.
Easy way without pulling the basket: PC7 plumbers putty. let it set. Then, PC7 epoxy over the putty. There will be NO MORE leaking. There will not be a "next time." Next owner will need a nuclear device to get it out but it will not leak! lol
This is really setting you up for hassle removing that in future -I guess that’s not an issue if you don’t plan on staying in house beyond 1020 years…buy the preformed dry silicone ring
Haha, misinformation indeed! If you are going to throw the tub or sink away with the drain at some point, fine. However if you ever have to just replace a tub drain, good luck. I have to bust out a saw and hope I don't damage the pipe. 🤬
How come a new "Sioux Chief" brass shower drain instructs you to use 100% silicone on the wet side & provides no sealing gasket for it? Your advice is like a "Cow, pissing on a flat rock!" The rock is wet, you are wet and now smell even worse, while sounding similar to your vocal speaking!
@@co0terx3x3 clear silicone! That's all I use. That and pipe thread sealant and there is nothing that you can't install and get to work correctly. Silicone for the water, pipe thread sealant for you know pipe threads but also for allowing a ring to tighten properly such as the base nut on this application.
As a plumber for over 20 years , I recommend using silicone caulk, cause it's a tighter fit to the top of the sink, putty dissolves alot from the hot water over time
Thank you. I've resealed my basket strainer 4 times and even a plumber resealed it. Now I'm doing it again. I just figured it was regular maintenance twice a year. I was ready to call a welder.
I am so glad you as a plumber suggested this method. Thank you.
How long do I need to let it dry? Thank you.
@@johnwilson7680 usually caulk will dry within an hour , I usually run the water to test before leaving a customers house
As a plumber for over 30 years, I just fixed someone else's botched plumbing job where they used silicone to set the drain. It leaked a lot. I had to remove their silicone which is a very difficult job by itself. If they had done it right I wouldn't have had to do this otherwise very simple and easy task. Don't use silicone to set a drain.
@@joeysplats3209 How was it leaking through silicone?
I have arthritis and I was reluctant to fix my kitchen drain myself($200 for a plumber). But your video made it look easy, and it was. Thank you.
As a plumber just letting you know your missing slip gasket and must put stopper in place to test for leaks. Whatever works is all good Lots of love
An air tank with a $30 Harbor Freight air hammer & short punch work great in confined locations. A slight trigger squeeze knocks the pot metal ring (Or Brass) loose and spray a penetrating lube on it. The threads are cut very loose even on new ones. Stainless steel in sinks, brass w/cover in shower drains purchased December 2022 from "Sioux Chief" provides instructions to use 100% silicone on the wet side (an colors like almond) but the bottom gets the black seal, followed by a thick plastic backer ring that reduces effort, rubber ring distortion and makes it easy to install. If needed, vise grips on a short punch can be used with a hammer if room for all, light provided on the ear / tab only as it needs moved about an 1" (1cm) then unscrews by hand. If it binds, tap it gently as I mentioned, the threads are cut very loose. Silicone needs 2-4 hours to set & start curing, but have the wet side fully seated. 24 hours to full cure but waiting 2 hrs will give it a chance to bond, just hold it still with open needle nose pliers and a screwdriver if needed & you have a helper. But new one use 100% silicone on top. Unlike the nasty comment made by a stock-holder in plumbers putty industry!
DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, retired (I fix all of our home problems)
Silicone is best. I did my bar sink with it 15 years ago and still no leaks. My kitchen guy used plumber’s putty upstais and it leaks a year later. Im going to do it over myself with silicone.
that test was not good enough. true test is to fill the sink with water for leaks and then pull plug to test drain connections for leaks.
Thankyou! We fill the tub up 3 times before giving it the A Ok
Trust me. I don't leak. You don't have to wait overnight, it would be best practice but not required. Use Supreme GE silicone and 99% alcohol for cleaning and you will be very happy. Thats my method. Proven true over 100 times and counting. Also no wobbles of drain, important for a disposer!
@@jaydendowdle3504 how is the result? Is it good?
I agree too
I'm not a plumber, but this test didn't do much to measure the seal under pressure
Gotta use the paper spacer between the nut and gasket.or The nut will just bind up the rubber gasket when tightening
yes the "frictionless washer"
Yeah that's why they're getting leaks with putty. Lol they're squeezing it out during tightening because they don't use the fiber washer.
Yes
It usually comes with a cardboard ring, but it often gets thrown away. You can make one pretty easily. It's definitely necessary to keep the rubber from twisting against the metal ring.
Paper gasket between nut and rubber gasket is missing (prevents nut from twisting the rubber gasket)
You can also add silicon to the bottom of the sink
I am trying the silicone this time, last time i used plumbers putty but its leaking again. This method seems best as long as the silicone is cured over 12-24 hours.
I love the idea of not fully tightening it until the silicone dries. Brilliant.
Used putty in a new sink I installed 5 years ago. Started leaking 6 months ago. Saw this video and put a new strainer in using silicone. Puddy never dies I noticed and kept creeping into sink.
Ooo ooo! I'm gonna try Painter's tape around the threads, so the excess doesn't get on them.
If you wait overnight for it to cure, aren't you risking gaps in your seal? I'd be more inclined to tighten before curing so there's a seamless connection between the two pieces (giving it a better chance of creating a perfect seal).
I've always used 100% silicone instead of putty. I also tighten it up right away as you suggest. The tape on the threads is a good idea though. 🤔
Yes you are totally correct, tighten straight away and we use soapy water in a spraying bottle to wipe away any access silicone with a cloth
@@phloggo2976 This is great to know. I used putty but it was hard to fully tighten. I like the idea of this curing (which I think how the builder did it now that I see the other drain). With the putty, I haven't been able to fully fully tighten and I just feel the silicone may be better. So I might have to redo this tomorrow.
@Kassandra Nelson Hi, how did it go? I'm in the same boat as you.
@Kassandra Nelson Thank you! I'm going to redo with silicone.
Just put in a new bathroom vanity and sink and the directions said to use silicone NOT plumbers putty. Against my instincts I used the silicone and a day later when I finished the job and tried the sink it leaked like a sieve! Now I have to scrape off the silicone and use the putty😕
@Simon John so silicone will seal anything when properly applied AND ALLOWED TO DRY except for a kitchen sink drain basket...
Silicone is better, IF it's done carefully. IF it's done carefully. It does not remain in it's place until sqeeze happens. If anything is allowed to move when lower nut is being tightened then you may have an issue. It's a learned skill. And I do still prefer Silicone. Lasts longer and is cleaner more professional finish on top side.
Going to disagree on this one. I am repairing the tailpieces for two kitchen sinks in rental units right now. Both are 10+ years old..one used silicone and the other plumbers putty. Both baskets spun a bit when undoing the tailpiece..the silicone broke and formed leaks. The plumber's putty remains complaint and remained leak free even though both baskets spun at least 180 degrees each. Now I have to redo the basket with the silicone. The one with plumbers putty is already finished and working..no leaks.
It’s hard to argue with real results, there’s another idea though. I haven’t tried it, but they sell a silicone ring that is precast. To me this seems like a really good possibility because it would be a little bit thicker. Next time I really wanna try the precast solution. I haven’t looked at any reviews but it seems like a good possibility. With both silicone or plumbers putty if the material gets squeezed out too much the both Leak. My only concern about the precast is that it may Bring the basket too high. Hope you get everything fixed up👍👍
@@livefree6878 Ooooo. I might go looking for that. I am also going to try one of these baskets that has the screws instead of the large nut/ring that connects the basket to the drain/hole. Pricey..but beats making my 12" channel locks pretend they are 16" channel locks to get that nut undone.
I like putty myself but as soon as you spin the baskets, the old seal is questionable, and needs to be redone. You got lucky with the putty this time, but that's a gamble with a call back.
This is great to see how it is done! You make it look so easy. I could not figure how to loosen the pipe nut, but I see here it needs to be turned clockwise to unscrew, which is different than the "righty tighty, lefty loosy" principle. I heard caulk tends to trap mold, so i wonder if it may present issues later.
All the threads in the video are still righty tighty, lefty loosy...
I tried the rubber gasket on top but the basket stands proud from the indent slightly. Ill move the rubber seal to the bottom and use silicone on both sides.
Silicone is great if you have 24 hours to let it cure. Otherwise putty is the way to go. Use about a 3/8 diameter and press down evenly by hand. Trick: Set putty with just the nut first, no rubber gasket...do not over-tighten! Then replace nut and rubber ring just snug. No leaks. Next job.
Very easy to understand, just exactly what I needed, thank you
My sink said to use the gasket on the top instead of plumbers putty or caulking. Haven't had any leaks for years whith the gasket.
Yeah, thats because thats what its for. If you look close the rubber binds with the tighten ring underneath and moves out of center. The lower should only have a slippery ring of something like dense cardboard to allow the ring to tighten the rubber gasket on the top side. No need for overnight wait this way. But i do love her technique since thats how u do oil pan gaskets for some automakers. If it works for a pressured system it will definitely work for a drain system.
Wow the diagram on mine literally said to use the rubber gasket below the sink and I've been having so much trouble with silicone trying to get a seal. Finally gave up and read this comment, switched the gasket to up top, cranked it down, and bam no more leaks.
Update: No Leaks! Although the drain basket is just slightly too high for the water to drain all the way, and the crevice between the basket and the sink catches food. Probably just going to try some putty at some point soon.
@@brianmuir9791 yeah use silicone to replace gasket. It will let u eliminate the bump up it causes. Silicone for this is ideal but tricky tho. You have to really juice the sink side and sorta hold it roughly in one place as you tighten the lower nut. Use pipe thread sealant on threads on the entire shaft. It helps with the nut turning easily not really with sealing. Trust me I do about 15 of these a week with every type of pop up assembly you can imagine. Also sometimes the bottom of the sink has irregularities and if you put silicone on it before the process I mention it will prevent a leak. Cultured marble thats not uncommon.
@@brianmuir9791 that's what you get for taking the advice of someone with the tag "Beer before Breakfast".
I think that answers my question on whether I need putty/silicone if I've the TWO gaskets for the top and bottom of the sink hole.
Silicone is a bad idea if you need to get it back off some day coming from a plumber I do t recommend it some time have to cut it out with a Sawzall plumbers putty been doing the job for a long time
Excellent comment!!! Plumber putty...
How about for granite composite sinks? I know there is a stain free plumbers putty to prevent it from staining, but does that work or is silicone better for those situations?
@@BuffNerdInCa silicone and alcohol wipes. Done
The silicone will work but if you ever need to change it again thats when it bites you in the ass ! Silicone acts like glue , plumbers putty stay more flexible, unless its 50 yrs old but it will still come apart ..
Actually had to replace one with silicone. Not hard at all. Just twist and the seal will break.
I was looking at new sink wastes today and from what I see here in the UK, they come with a rubber or foam ring to place where you have applied silicone and previously used putty.
They come that way over here in North America too ! Problem is most plumbing videos are yesterdays plumbing and you hit the the nail on the head when you said you were looking at NEW SINK WASTES. I just purchased a new kitchen double sink and the design of the strainer assembly eliminates a lot of yesterday blues.
You can maybe get the idea by watching this video. . .
ua-cam.com/video/NAABLpTzozo/v-deo.html
That foam is for underneath never use it for a seal
That goes underneath. Plumbers putty goes on top for rhe seal
Thank you both.
@@yakkiebush5671There are two washers...the foam one is supposed to go on top of sink and rubber one on the bottom.
Excellent video! Thank you.
Never use silicon. It dries and becomes a leaking hazard. Using the proper type of putty will always give you a proper seal. Just ask Rich T. from TOH. He always uses putty.
YUCK. Okay, thank you. After I moved in, I found a rusty cake pan was the fix my landlord went with. That's a theme that plucks my nerves. When my temporary fix gives out, I'll fix it right. He'd put a pan under there, say it's fine & blame me for the leak.
Is there a specific type of silicone to use for this?
Yeah. None. Use putty.
Then what do you use ? Silicone? The rubber washer is not intended for top of sink.
@fartpoobox ohyeah I am open minded. But in the service field. I must ask that your product meet a few of my requests.
1 easily workable and clean up. Nothing special needed
2. The gap between sink and basket flange is not increased to cause water to pool and turn sink black.
3. Immediately testable with full sinks of hot water.
4. Last as long as the basket
5. Easy clean up when 15-20 year mark hits so your product doesn’t stick and cause scratches when cleaning sink in prep for new basket. Customers change them to change more often than they leak kind of product.
Seriously open to your new way. But not silicone. That way is older than I. So I am left wondering. Anything that makes my day go faster without call backs is all I reach for. I openly back every product with labor. If the manufacture says it should “x” amount of time. And I purchase that for you? I back it labor. So my customers of 17 years solo business without a dime in advertising can rest assured. It may not be the Taj Mahal but by golly it will work as long as it’s intended too. So please enlighten me with something newer and better.
Lexel. Ive been silicone harper but my goodness Lexel is amazing. Anyone that is concerned about 15 to 20 years from now doesn't make sense. The entire sink, faucet, drain and cabinet will be replaced before that.
@@pjplumber2146 exactly, what is this lady teaching? I fix sinks that people tried using silicone. They put the rubber gasket under the basket🤣, oh food collector and stinky. She should continue with her bs saying to install flex pipe and S trap. 👀😂🤣
Please don’t do this to your baskets. Rookie move. No way to test. And they have to come off at some point in future.
I've done this for many years. I use Lexel works just fine.
@Supa Trending Daily Lexel.
It definitely won't fail. I'm a contractor. Been using it for years with no issues
I'm a Pipefitter and both the contractor and the plumber are wrong. You weld that FN thing, whatever the hell is called, in place and never touch it ever again.
@@realchicagophill lol that would be awesome if possible. We have porcelain and acrylic and marble kinda of material to attach baskets too. Most of us can weld. Even less can weld good enough for your wife to accept her kitchen sink looking like that. 🤣
@@pjplumber2146 😂
GREAT! I'm replacing my bathroom sink drain & the old one had gobs of putty. I was concerned because I only have silicone sealant but no putty. Thanks also for the advice to let it cure overnight.
My new delta faucet calls for silicone and no plumbers putty in the directions. I thought drains always used putty but I’m no plumber and Delta disagrees with it for some reason. I did notice on the plumbers putty label when I looked it’s not compatible with plastic or materials like granite and other stones. So maybe that’s why delta recommends silicone.
The putty that I brought said don’t use on plastic so I went with silicone instead, my new faucet setup said to use silicone anyways.
Thank you was searching for alternative to plumber putty
35 years in trade dont think i ever used silicone on a kitchen strainer . had a few problems witth putty mainly from using way too much. i have used silicone on a tub drain and a couple of lavs that had glass sinks. ive used silicode on shower drains for fiberglas shower pans.. just little tricks in doing the work to get good results
We do this too at my job, but they silicon the bottom rubber part snug under the sink drain in bathrooms, and they silicon the threads in the P-trap. Yes, you can do this, but it also is a permanent solution I feel. And that’s not user-friendly for the customer or the next plumber to get there.
Silicone not made for submersion of water. Wont last under hot temperatures
Okay, it's not calk or calking, it's silicone. Calking is water based. I use plumbers putty because as you tighten, you can watch it ooz out, showing a perfect seal. Silicone is not going to give you that visual security
Yes. I used putty as per instructions when I replaced my garbage disposal back in 2013. No issues at all with leaks or seepage. I hand tightened it until the putty oozed out. When I look at the drain from the top it looks very even to me.
Thanks for the guide.
If the gasket is not thick enough, the dish will not be clamped tightly and water will definitely leak.
Wait until he goes to repair it in the future and can't get the basket out because of the silicone also acts as a glue.
I think that's what was used to put my original drain basket in. How do you get it out?
@@maryannerunkel164 The first thing i would try if it were my sink is to use a pipe wrench that is big enough to engage the bottom threads of the strainer after removing the flange nut that holds the strainer in place. I would very carefully try to twist in both directions on the strainer treads to break the bond of the silicone to the sink..The decision is yours to make if you do this. I am just telling you what I would do with my own sink. As an example I had to remove an undermount sink set in silicone. I had to use an electric turkey knife to cut thru the silicone to remove it.
@@gary24752 Yikes! Thanks for the advice. I have tried to cut around the silicone on the top and even used a hammer! to try and get the basket out. I am currently waiting for mineral spirits to hopefully loose the silicone. I'm replacing the basket because it is rusty on top. So much for my easy DIY.
@@maryannerunkel164 Doubtful mineral spirits will work but I would try WD-40 which is a penetrate and let it sit over night otherwise I would go back to using a 12 inch channel lock wrench to twist the treads on the strainer body (underneath the sink) back and forth to try to break the bond maybe in combination with the WD-40. You are going to need either a special wrench or the 12 inch channel lock anyways to get the pipe connections off. They have stuff at a counter supply for this purpose but I try to stay away from that chemical stuff for obvious reasons and if you have an enamel sink I would worry about it affecting the color. They use silicone for gaskets so heat will not affect it either once it is cured. I do not recommend using screw drivers, hammers, sharp instruments, etc. as they may damage the surface of the sink no matter what it is made of especially ones that are enameled. Once you chip or scratch that finish rust will start. Just out of curiosity can I assume that the strainer is stainless steel? Why not try a grey scuff pad from Home Depot and some Bar Keeper's cleaner to remove the rust after spraying some WD-40 on it. Scrub in one direction only. You might find it will come off and would be a whole lot cheaper that buying a new strainer and if you do get it a Ace Hardware. The stuff at HomeDepot and Leows are not of good quality as far as I am concerned and stay away from the plastic ones. Be prepared for more than one trip to the hardware store. Hopefully if you have a dishwasher hooked up to it the pipe will be in good condition. The pipes and the hose connection from the dishwasher are not always one size fits all. The outside diameter of the hose nib may be 3/4 but the inside dimeter of the rubber connector on the end of the DW hose is more like 7/8. Ask me how I know. This requires soldering a 3/4" copper coupling to the nib in order to attach the hose from the dishwasher which is a real pain due to the nickel coating on the pipe.
Cut the old lock nut off ( hammer and flathead or grinder w metal blade) once the lock nut is off tap the old strainer out and replace it with a new one no big head aches
They sell the rubber ring at hardware stores$2.00, put one on top, the thinness one. Then tighten from the bottom, the 2 squeeze and ta da !!
Guys my drain came with two rubber gaskets which, I presume, should be placed on top and below the sink hole/flange; MY QUESTION IS, DO I STILL NEED SILICONE?
No, the silicone is an alternative. Your manufacturer may have a pdf with instructions if your unit came without any on paper.
The thing came without instructions; by the way I installed it without silicone and it leaked straight away!!
So I took it off and put silicone and it's now working fine.
Thanks for your answer/feedback
Yes
Good 👍 job lady...
Thank you for sharing 🙏🤗🤗.
Thank you for this video, but I wanted to know, did you use the rubber gasket along with the silicone or just silicone
The rubber gasket goes underneath
Both: The silicone above (substituted for plumber's putty) creates the watertight seal. The rubber gasket below isn't there as much for a seal as much as it is to distribute the force of the nut on the sink.
Rubber gasket is below. Silicone or puddy is above
How about wetting the rubber seal with a little silicone? (would it be a good idea?)
I did it and it works as well, just extra sealing. Just like you said tho just enough to wet
What brand of silicone did you use?
100% silicone
Oh no! 30 yrs plumbing, thousands of sinks under my name, no leaks! Only plumbers putty!
my plumber is like u but I realize that is not the best cause I detected a mold odor. I thought it was in the tubes "Y" but black stuff started to appear around the edge of the baskets. That means the smell is coming from where he affixed the baskets with plumbers party to the sink. SIlicone is better.
I've used plumbers putty twice and it still leaks
Your the cleanest plumber i know. Also i use the rubber gasket on top instead of the silicone but to each is own if it works… 👍👍
Thats not up to prefference. The ruber gasket goes on the bottom. Plumbers putty goes on top
Exactly .. putting gasket up top you’re asking for a premature leak in due time
We?(Cats and I)Decided?(my opinion) Cut off? (With what if u don't mind me asking?) ....bc I don't have a proper tool to use and broke one tab or cut off already. Very nice prep 👍. Hardest and most important. What was the torque specs on that silicone? Over night . My wife might get suspicious why I keep returning to ♀️ 's homes to fix leaky sink basket. You don't like top hats? Did we use fiber washers so not to pinch rubber a year ago?... Sry for being rude just wanted to put out a warning. Love u
There will always be a debate over plumbers putty or silicone. My brother in law is a plumber and says use only putty my cousin is also a plumber and says use silicone only .
On double sinks just use silicone on one side and plumbers putty on the other
The silicone also acts as a glue and it will be a bitch to remove the strainer where silicone has been used.
After using putty for four sink leaks in the past two years (yes replaced almost all parts) - I'm giving up on putty. It seems to leak sooner rather than later for us. Silicone is the next try.
You forgot the paper friction washer, otherwise the rubber washer will not be centered.
Did any of the culk come out?
What type of glue should I use to seal a loose faucet for the kitchen? I appreciate the help I'm a first timer. Thanks!
You don't glue it. There should be 1 or 2 large nuts on the bottom. Just tighten them up
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531
I already fixed it. Like you said it had 2 large nuts on the bottom now is tight. Thanks!
@@dJ.kNiGhT23 no problem
Thank you
That flex pipe you are using in your drain setup is horrible. You should re-plump that correctly!!
Plumbers Putty works great and You're probably going to have to remove it eventually. Nothing lasts forever except the Earth and Sky 😊
Had a plumber tell me this past week stop using plumbers putty and just use silicon.
Thanks a lot! xox
I have to admit I have not had good luck using plumbers putty
Was that liquid nails or silicone?
Can we use liquid nails for sink drain?
Thanks
I believe the Liquid Nails brand also makes a silicon caulk. Do not use the Liquid Nails adhesive.
DONT USE SILICONE, when the day comes to remove it have fun, you will end up replacing the sink as it wont come apart. Use plumbers putty and it will last over 20 years.
My exact thoughts, it will be nightmare to take it apart.
My ex-husband showed me how to fix the drip under my kitchen sink from the drain with plumbers putty when I bought my house. Not a year later the leak returned - the exhusband did not 😉
I bought Kwik seal before watching the video, however, every step she instructed I did. Perfection! Thank you!
Putty or Silicone?? 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😵😵😵😵😵😵😵😵😵😵😵
I will do it this way.
THANK YOU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How does this work on soft poop stoppages
I'm going with putty,looks like that putty job wasn't done right,are bottom nut was never tight enough.
Use the yellow Teflon on the threads and every piece touching, and your good. I always fix silicone jobs.
So you’re saying you hate silicone? Please tell me where in the code book says that silicone is Not permissible, because I would love to know where to use against my peers. I honestly hate silicone.
@Dayn A I'm just saying i like using other stuff. To each his/her own. "In life, go with what works for you". If the homeowner uses that sink before it cures, you're gonna have a mess to redo. Oh the joy of plumbing. D, my job requires finished and ready to use when I walk out the door.
Genius
Easy way without pulling the basket: PC7 plumbers putty. let it set. Then, PC7 epoxy over the putty. There will be NO MORE leaking. There will not be a "next time." Next owner will need a nuclear device to get it out but it will not leak! lol
This is really setting you up for hassle removing that in future -I guess that’s not an issue if you don’t plan on staying in house beyond 1020 years…buy the preformed dry silicone ring
I just fixed mine with silicone.....
wrong system
"...screw around the nut..."
Silicone is much more better honestly
the L in caulk is silent
Perhaps where you live
So is the D in Django
You must have put the "O" in Country.
Had you installed the paper deal you’d be able to tighten it up immediately and be done with it.
Good job nonetheless!
The paper goes underneath. Under the rubber. So that the nut slips on tighter and doesnt get caught on the rubber gasket.
really bad idea
That’s a mistake
New basket new putty new gaskets new slip nuts everything brand new don’t be cheap come on now silicones is for the birds
Horrible idea
This.... is the WORST advice ever. I vote this video should be removed. Do NOT do this.
Haha, misinformation indeed! If you are going to throw the tub or sink away with the drain at some point, fine. However if you ever have to just replace a tub drain, good luck. I have to bust out a saw and hope I don't damage the pipe. 🤬
Lol
Not true. Lot of debates about this in Reddit and clear that silicone 100% works
How come a new "Sioux Chief" brass shower drain instructs you to use 100% silicone on the wet side & provides no sealing gasket for it?
Your advice is like a "Cow, pissing on a flat rock!" The rock is wet, you are wet and now smell even worse, while sounding similar to your vocal speaking!
Where is the friction washer ahead of the gasket?
Foolish don't use cement, putty or anything sticky material
What do you use then?
@@co0terx3x3 clear silicone! That's all I use. That and pipe thread sealant and there is nothing that you can't install and get to work correctly. Silicone for the water, pipe thread sealant for you know pipe threads but also for allowing a ring to tighten properly such as the base nut on this application.
Mother version
supin surins gift
laurie shermans practiced thrift
fourth families rift
$45,585.53c/ce
never ever use silicone ever
I don’t use nothing !!! Just the factory gasket believe it or not lol🦾
i dont believe it