Use the right tools. It makes the job so much easier. Hook type spanner wrenches are not expensive and have a much better feel for what you're doing than hammering the nut using a screwdriver for a punch. The grease really need to be packing inside the bearing rather than smeared onto the outside.
I've been testing the sewing machine motors also, they seem to work well. Keep an eye on the motor temperature though, I could find no data on how hot is too hot. I'm looking into adding a cooling fan that runs all the time.
Bravo. It's allways a pleasure to watch some new enhancment. I am still struggling with my ELS for the lathe. I gave a look to your code and felt ashemed to my simple one. Like kindergarden level, ah,ah,ah.... I will try my path, but I really don't think to arrive to your level of quality. But at least for now encoder, stepper and lcd screen are working....
Keep us updated, you didn't release a video for a while! There's no problem building on top of other people's work - without this we'd all be making coal in the forest 😄
@@azinfidel6461 these bearings are made for trucks and tractors, they are rated for 70 tons of axial load at 4300 rpm on grease so it should be all right as long as they're clean.
@@MaximKachurovskiy on vehicle wheel bearings with taper roller bearings, tighten nut till no slack then undo a quarter if a turn and lock nut. So on your installation i would undo both the nuts, nip up the first nut, tap both ends of the shaft with a hammer and a wood block, this seems to seat the bearings in the housings, tighten the nut a bit more and spin the shaft by hand. Tighten up the lock nut and run on no load from low to high speed, check bearing temperatures, if getting very hot slacken off nuts, if no heat change carefully nip the nuts up a little more. Every one has their own preferences but careful adjustments give good results. Many thanks for all your helpful videos.
@@MaximKachurovskiy the rating doesnt matter, the whole idea with a tapered bearing is that they should not be under pressure, it will 100% lead to premature failure, that is the whole reason there are 2 locking rings, also the amount of grease used was not enough, you really need to get the grease in between the race and the cage .. ALSO, you shouldnt use the bearing to press in the outer race as that can do damage to the bearings! even the smallest imperfection will lead to premature failure i say all this as someone who replaces these bearing all the time for cars, but hey maybe in a lathe all of these procedures are obsolete? i cant really say
Great Videos! They have really helped me with my MX-600 which is similar. Have you by chance figured out the gearing for a .80mm thread pitch? I want to cut M5 x .80 and can't find a gear ratio.
Here's a project idea, hack the controller for the dc brushless motor and make it controllable from the esp32 of your ELS. Re. bearings, fully sealed angular contact bearings would be a better option.
You mean the old motor or the new one? Old one is a pointless rabbit hole (those motors are rare, expensive and not good) and the new one makes little sense to control from the ELS - knob is the best UI for controlling a motor and H4 has no knobs. In general, modularity is better - so a separate lever for the motor :) I'd be interested in sealed angular but I didn't find any for my size (32010).
Как получился скол у ПБ? Большое усилие нужно было для того что-бы вытащить шпиндель? Магнит тахометра не мешал снять передний подшипник? Почему именно мотор от швейной машины? Если сдох контроллер - вместо родного можно было поставить более продвинутый, собранного в корпусе размера драйвера DM860 и с лицевой панелью как у частотника + возможность внешнего управления и включеним на заданных оборотах.
На передней бабке я просто неаккуратно высверлил углубление чтобы четырехкулачковый патрон иметь возможность поставить, места под шестигранник не хватало. Магнит не мешал но все шпиндели немножко разные, может у вас будет мешать. Мотор от швейной машины оптимален по цене-качеству, за 100 евро (в моем случае даже 60) лучше не бывает. Родной мотор очень странный, 3 силовых провода и 5 сигнальных, контроллера к нему не найти. Как шпиндель вытаскивал см. предыдущее видео 😀
@0:23 for anyone else watching, this is not a good way to press and bearings. You never want to put force through a bearing into a race when seating it, it can put dents into the race that cause premature failure. For typical deep groove roller bearings, you make a shell/tube that only contacts the race you are driving against. If it’s on the shaft you make a shell that only contacts the inner ring. If you are seating it into a bore you make a shell that only contacts the outer ring. So for these tapered roller bearings, just leave the roller pack out-of-the-way entirely and use a block of wood or aluminum to press the outer race into the bore (which is where he ended up at @0:25 anyways)
@@MaximKachurovskiy I can imagine that this sewing machine motor does work fine with ELS. The inverter motor made a lot of trouble. Even if everything looked to work ok, I found out that during braking it sends noise to the spindle encoder. After stopping and measuring it did start in other position. I fixed it with longer decceleration time. Now it works perfekt.
Use the right tools. It makes the job so much easier. Hook type spanner wrenches are not expensive and have a much better feel for what you're doing than hammering the nut using a screwdriver for a punch. The grease really need to be packing inside the bearing rather than smeared onto the outside.
I've been testing the sewing machine motors also, they seem to work well. Keep an eye on the motor temperature though, I could find no data on how hot is too hot.
I'm looking into adding a cooling fan that runs all the time.
great vid. thanks mister. your lathe is smooth now, strong and straight.
Bravo. It's allways a pleasure to watch some new enhancment. I am still struggling with my ELS for the lathe. I gave a look to your code and felt ashemed to my simple one. Like kindergarden level, ah,ah,ah.... I will try my path, but I really don't think to arrive to your level of quality. But at least for now encoder, stepper and lcd screen are working....
Keep us updated, you didn't release a video for a while! There's no problem building on top of other people's work - without this we'd all be making coal in the forest 😄
I have the feeling this new bearings will not live long. They don't like a heavy pre load. The slotted nuts should be adjusted carefully.
😬 Tend to agree, could be overtightened.
Just check the temperature with your hand, too much preload it will be too hot to touch. ( been there done that)😂
@@azinfidel6461 these bearings are made for trucks and tractors, they are rated for 70 tons of axial load at 4300 rpm on grease so it should be all right as long as they're clean.
@@MaximKachurovskiy on vehicle wheel bearings with taper roller bearings, tighten nut till no slack then undo a quarter if a turn and lock nut. So on your installation i would undo both the nuts, nip up the first nut, tap both ends of the shaft with a hammer and a wood block, this seems to seat the bearings in the housings, tighten the nut a bit more and spin the shaft by hand. Tighten up the lock nut and run on no load from low to high speed, check bearing temperatures, if getting very hot slacken off nuts, if no heat change carefully nip the nuts up a little more. Every one has their own preferences but careful adjustments give good results. Many thanks for all your helpful videos.
@@MaximKachurovskiy the rating doesnt matter, the whole idea with a tapered bearing is that they should not be under pressure, it will 100% lead to premature failure, that is the whole reason there are 2 locking rings, also the amount of grease used was not enough, you really need to get the grease in between the race and the cage .. ALSO, you shouldnt use the bearing to press in the outer race as that can do damage to the bearings! even the smallest imperfection will lead to premature failure
i say all this as someone who replaces these bearing all the time for cars, but hey maybe in a lathe all of these procedures are obsolete? i cant really say
Great Videos! They have really helped me with my MX-600 which is similar. Have you by chance figured out the gearing for a .80mm thread pitch? I want to cut M5 x .80 and can't find a gear ratio.
You can calculate the gears needed on kachurovskiy.com/pages/gear-calculator/
Thanks so much, great Calc!
Here's a project idea, hack the controller for the dc brushless motor and make it controllable from the esp32 of your ELS. Re. bearings, fully sealed angular contact bearings would be a better option.
You mean the old motor or the new one? Old one is a pointless rabbit hole (those motors are rare, expensive and not good) and the new one makes little sense to control from the ELS - knob is the best UI for controlling a motor and H4 has no knobs. In general, modularity is better - so a separate lever for the motor :) I'd be interested in sealed angular but I didn't find any for my size (32010).
@@MaximKachurovskiy lol UA-cam is blocking comments, 7010 angular bearing is what you need I think.
Как получился скол у ПБ? Большое усилие нужно было для того что-бы вытащить шпиндель? Магнит тахометра не мешал снять передний подшипник? Почему именно мотор от швейной машины? Если сдох контроллер - вместо родного можно было поставить более продвинутый, собранного в корпусе размера драйвера DM860 и с лицевой панелью как у частотника + возможность внешнего управления и включеним на заданных оборотах.
На передней бабке я просто неаккуратно высверлил углубление чтобы четырехкулачковый патрон иметь возможность поставить, места под шестигранник не хватало. Магнит не мешал но все шпиндели немножко разные, может у вас будет мешать. Мотор от швейной машины оптимален по цене-качеству, за 100 евро (в моем случае даже 60) лучше не бывает. Родной мотор очень странный, 3 силовых провода и 5 сигнальных, контроллера к нему не найти. Как шпиндель вытаскивал см. предыдущее видео 😀
@0:23 for anyone else watching, this is not a good way to press and bearings. You never want to put force through a bearing into a race when seating it, it can put dents into the race that cause premature failure. For typical deep groove roller bearings, you make a shell/tube that only contacts the race you are driving against. If it’s on the shaft you make a shell that only contacts the inner ring. If you are seating it into a bore you make a shell that only contacts the outer ring. So for these tapered roller bearings, just leave the roller pack out-of-the-way entirely and use a block of wood or aluminum to press the outer race into the bore (which is where he ended up at @0:25 anyways)
I have same lathe can you remember size of bearings?
@@Nigel-bk7fm they vary, only option is to measure yours.
Oh man I sympathise there!
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Чего-то не хватает... или голоса, или музыки 🙂
Да, поторопился малёк 😄 Надо было что-то лайтовое на фон поставить
@@MaximKachurovskiyмат например)
This sewing machine motor sounds annoying. But I can imagine why you prefer it to an 3 phase motor with inverter 🤣
It does. But it was so cheap I couldn't refuse 😄
@@MaximKachurovskiy I can imagine that this sewing machine motor does work fine with ELS. The inverter motor made a lot of trouble. Even if everything looked to work ok, I found out that during braking it sends noise to the spindle encoder. After stopping and measuring it did start in other position. I fixed it with longer decceleration time. Now it works perfekt.