I built an all steel micro lathe in the mid 60's and it has taper roller bearings in the headstock with oil seals in the housings at the outside..........the insides of the bearing housings are open and the headstock casing is sealed to allow oil to be in the bottom of it......the oil level is 10mm deep and .a ring lubricator around the spindle dipped in the oil and lubed the 2 bearings as the spindle rotated......I've been using it for the last 50 years. BTW, you can get double row angular contact bearings that have seals.....I have 2 on my milling machine spindle.....25mm ID X 52 OD......no adjustment needed as they are preloaded, lubed and sealed for life.
I've done the roller bearing upgrade on a few different machines now, it makes a world of difference. I have a C6 10 x 20 based home CNC conversion that only had roller bearings in the chuck end, a home built CNC mill that uses a mini mill headstock, and a 1958 9 inch Logan lathe. It's like night and day. The surface finish and accuracy on the lathes improves dramatically. The only thing you have to watch is preload resistance and rolling resistance due to the wider rollers displacing the grease. A really lightweight flouroelastomer spindle grease is your friend for packing these bearings. The heavy stuff used for wheel bearings will eat up horsepower and lower your spindle speed. One hybrid option is a roller bearing on the chuck end and an angular contact on the other end if you want to reduce some drag but the dual roller bearings are extremely stable and pretty inexpensive. Good angular contact bearings are pricey.
@sourand jaded That's like $29 USD. If they're Japanese, German or Swiss that's a really good deal. I've had very mixed experiences with Chinese AC bearings. I like AC bearings for high speed spindles and especially spindles that use paired AC bearings at either end. So two paired bearings on either end, four bearings total. That gives you low bearing resistance but great spindle stability. But in this case I'm thinking of applications like Hardinge toolroom lathes or high speed mills.
At first I was very impressed. I saw spindle bearing retainers that looked like actual oil seals. That is the real problem with roller bearings. It does not matter how little play you achieve. They will constantly fill with metal fillings. The true fix is to seal the bottom of the housing, fit actual metal bearing retainers with true oil seals, put a oil level window in the housing and fill it 1/2 full with oil. This also solves the high/low gear lubrication issue. without that, offset sealed bearings would be a better option but they cost $100 After dissembling 20+ spindles and trying many options I have found that a $22 set of made in Japan deep groove NACI bearings will achieve as good if not better tolerances that you show in this video. Then install a grease zirk right above the 2 interior gears in the spindle head. get a small grease gun fill with white lith grease and you can lube the gears without disasembly.
Having researched mini lathes many little things can make a big difference. Such as metal drive gears and the feed for both X and Y axis not using the outside diameter of the lead-screw if possible . Also acceptable play and a means to adjust play are paramount. I always compare any lathe to the Colchester lathes l used to use .
Really like your work on the mini lathe! Have to change the bearing on my machine too and also think to install tapered gibs on the carriage :) Thanks for sharing!
6:11 What could possibly go wrong. Despite, that I hammer the safetyrules into my pupils, and telling them to never ever wear gloves at any machine with turning parts, if finally happened a few years ago... One person did wear gloves, the exact same type as you wear there, and lost half a finger... Torn off... So all be careful, pride comes before the fall. On a lighter note: "Thank you for the great video"
For a "standard" owner of a mini-lathe this is a great video. It makes the lathe better but, of cource, not best. I assume that you have taken the lathe from its regular position otherwise you should consider bolting it something heavy. Greasing "system" is good enough for this type of product. Pls carry on.
I'd avoid the habit of wearing gloves around machinery, even if it is "just" a drill press. Safety first. If it needs holding more securely, use a drill vice. Machines, parts, you can replace. Your body parts are a little less expendible.
@@robertbutler8004 That also goes for cleaning rags/towels. These are too a no no on running machinery. Use a brush for removing swarf with the machine running.
we all crib about the chinese lathes but pound for pound they cannot be beat ,I myself have had many and cannot complain, you get what you pay for ,they can make them better with roller bearings but its all down to cost now you have upgraded yours as would the manufacturer , but as to cost
Wouldn't it be a lot more honest if they sold their machines as a kit of parts... for you to finish and put together! After all that is what most of the buyers of these contraptions end up doing (to get usable tool). Like your upgrades - subscribed
"They" market these mini lathes to people like me - no prior machining experience, unsure if using a lathe will keep me entertained for more than a few weeks - who are intimidated by the thought of assembling a machine which might take your fingers off or send metal parts flying at high speeds. Pure hobbyists, in other words. I am in the market for a lathe, because I want to try something new at an age where others retire, and I cannot even dream of a decent quality lathe, which I estimate in the medium-to-high four figure price range. I envy people who know more about the whole subject, but here I am.
@@TheBipolarBearOh, don't you know you're supposed to just be born with a full machine shop in-tow? Who needs 'beginner lathes' at a good dabbling price, right? :P
invest in a deadblow, also cover your inner race in a wet papertowel, microwave it. if you want even more clearance throw your spindle in the freezer first in a bag. cool video.
You can wind those tapered bearings up tighter than what you have done to reduce the main shaft movement to less than 2 thou. Have done same on an Emco Compact 8
Where can I buy this little tap wrench that has the guide on it where you put it in the lathe or the mill it's very nice.. I make a few thousand of them and sell them.
Hi Congratulations, your videos are fantastic. And thanks for sharing the stl. I wonder, why did you add an additional thickness of about one/two mm behind the first bearing of the Spindle? what does it have to compensate for? Is that printed too? Sorry for all these questions but I'm new and I want to make the same changes to my lathe.
@@NeoIsrafil you can mill with one too, if you hold the endmill in a collet in the nose of the spindle. Use the cross slide as your x. Carriage is your z.
I see that you “tried” to lube the bearing. But when you installed the race it looks to have covered the hole. Was it offset or did it just look like that on the video?
I know nothing about lathes so I'm wondering, is it true so many commentors have said it's cheaper to buy a better quality ( non Chinese) lathe than replace bearings etc? I would assume everything ( motor, gears, switches, lathe body etc ) would be better quality making it much more expensive.
That is to be debated. first answer would be yes but then comes in reality. A true lathe currently made in USA would be very hard to find if it even exists. If it does the price would be at least 5 to 10 times higher. The second option is an old made in USA lathe. Then if the bed is not worn out or rusted you still have to rebuild it end to end to include a modern motor. Still plenty of work and money. Next up is a quality import, likely a knock off of a US lathe and made in Thailand. Yes, that is your best bet but only if you have $4K and the room for such a lathe. also consider this, by the time you fix your mini Chinese lathe, you will actually know how to use a lathe and it fits in your garage, even upstairs in an apartment.
You got a thumbs up for me….no question, great work, but man! You really need a bigger/better lathe, at least 10” swing. And maybe something that you can’t rock with one hand? Then you’d be unstoppable!
Если между коническими подшипниками поставить втулку с точно обработанными торцами, жесткость шпинделя увеличится в разы. Один минус - запаришься его собирать-разбирать для примерок.
Нужно изготовить втулку из свинца и с ней отрегулировать затем разобрать изамерить размер после обжатия свинца и изготовить стальную сразу в размер -время сэкономиш
Have to ask-have a chinese-lathe whit a problem that i hasnt seen anyone mentioned-i struggled whit getting the compound to be stable,finaly i measured the ways back and front,and they are not even..the back way is thicker at tailstock-end and front is thicker at chuck end,so need to do some grinding on the underside of the ways- has anyone come across this before? -the compound "pinches in the back on a long workpiece,and pinches at the front near the chuck..had to tighten and schim the brackets on the underside in a weard way,now it's managble,but quite hard to turn the handwheel
@@eddyherrera6326yeah, thats literally it... If there was a talking/explaining going on from the creator, that would be a different story, but he didnt say a single word, so idk why should it matter if it was muted or not. Or does Varnaj42 want to hear the sound of hammering in its full fidelity?
OMG. NEVER wear gloves when using the pillar drill !! Or hold small parts like that with your fingers, especially brass ! But thanks for the video. Some good ideas. Cheers.
I guess I don’t understand the economics of lathe manufacturing. The changes you made could easily be done at the factory. If roller bearings added $50 to the price, so what?
All of the time, effort and cost that has gone into this, I'm really not sure it is worth it at all. It'd be better to save up and buy a better lathe. Having said that, as an exercise in what can be done though to build a better machine, I applaud your fortitude and dedication.
Find me a 'better' lathe that beginners, who mostly simply don't have the money, in the case of brand new, or the background experience to be able to do a sufficient assessment to know they're not getting a lemon, in the case of second-hand. Okay, the US is lucky in that they have Precision Matthews who seem to do a fantastic job of QCing and improving the import lathes they buy, but for people living elsewhere, it's a bit of a crapshoot. Unlike in the US, where you seem to find well-cared-for South Bends at the local church jumble sale, tidy second hand machine tools are not that common elsewhere. All you can do is find an importer who offers good aftersales backup and the 'better' end of the import machinery product spectrum (PM pick Weiss lathes for a reason). Then it's off to the stripdown-degrease-clean-deburr-gib-adjustment-bearing-change races you go. Nobody who has the money for a well built, professional quality, small lathe buys a Chinese mini-lathe. Only people who don't sensibly have another choice buy them and fettling, upgrading and tuning them is part of the hobby.
no puedo creer que ustedes puedan comprar un torno donde lo mas importante que son los engranajes sean hechos de pastico . ustedes son unos -----------
The use of deep groove bearings for axial loads in spindle is nothing but scam. All cheap Chinese ball screw supporting blocks come with deep groove bearings instead of dupIex pairs. I also encounter deep groove bearings in Sieg's spindles for several times. OPTIMUM machine came with roller bearings though so nothing to complaint about that.
I love running a lathe. You can doing just about anything with one. And you make it look easy. Good video.
I built an all steel micro lathe in the mid 60's and it has taper roller bearings in the headstock with oil seals in the housings at the outside..........the insides of the bearing housings are open and the headstock casing is sealed to allow oil to be in the bottom of it......the oil level is 10mm deep and .a ring lubricator around the spindle dipped in the oil and lubed the 2 bearings as the spindle rotated......I've been using it for the last 50 years.
BTW, you can get double row angular contact bearings that have seals.....I have 2 on my milling machine spindle.....25mm ID X 52 OD......no adjustment needed as they are preloaded, lubed and sealed for life.
I've done the roller bearing upgrade on a few different machines now, it makes a world of difference. I have a C6 10 x 20 based home CNC conversion that only had roller bearings in the chuck end, a home built CNC mill that uses a mini mill headstock, and a 1958 9 inch Logan lathe. It's like night and day. The surface finish and accuracy on the lathes improves dramatically. The only thing you have to watch is preload resistance and rolling resistance due to the wider rollers displacing the grease. A really lightweight flouroelastomer spindle grease is your friend for packing these bearings. The heavy stuff used for wheel bearings will eat up horsepower and lower your spindle speed.
One hybrid option is a roller bearing on the chuck end and an angular contact on the other end if you want to reduce some drag but the dual roller bearings are extremely stable and pretty inexpensive. Good angular contact bearings are pricey.
@sourand jaded That's like $29 USD. If they're Japanese, German or Swiss that's a really good deal. I've had very mixed experiences with Chinese AC bearings.
I like AC bearings for high speed spindles and especially spindles that use paired AC bearings at either end. So two paired bearings on either end, four bearings total. That gives you low bearing resistance but great spindle stability. But in this case I'm thinking of applications like Hardinge toolroom lathes or high speed mills.
@sourand jaded You got a deal!
I HAVE BEEN USING USING TWO PRE LOADED TAPER ROLLER BEARING IN THE FRONT AND ONE PLAIN ROLLER BEARING AT THE BACK WITH EXCELLENT RESULTS.
At first I was very impressed. I saw spindle bearing retainers that looked like actual oil seals.
That is the real problem with roller bearings. It does not matter how little play you achieve. They will constantly fill with metal fillings. The true fix is to seal the bottom of the housing, fit actual metal bearing retainers with true oil seals, put a oil level window in the housing and fill it 1/2 full with oil. This also solves the high/low gear lubrication issue. without that, offset sealed bearings would be a better option but they cost $100
After dissembling 20+ spindles and trying many options I have found that a $22 set of made in Japan deep groove NACI bearings will achieve as good if not better tolerances that you show in this video. Then install a grease zirk right above the 2 interior gears in the spindle head. get a small grease gun fill with white lith grease and you can lube the gears without disasembly.
My very thoughts!!
That would be ideal. Good idea
Very much like the "We can do that better" channel. I think having a few text messages explaining what you are doing would be nice.
He's upgrading his mini lathe
Angular contact bearings are the same thickness makes it a lot easier, anyway love your upgrades thank you.
Did you use single or double angular contact bearings?
@@capman911 Single but you can use double row as well.
True but they tend to cost a lot more.
@@HyperactiveNeuron They are about $30 each here in Australia which is no big deal.
Having researched mini lathes many little things can make a big difference.
Such as metal drive gears and the feed for both X and Y axis not using the outside diameter of the lead-screw if possible .
Also acceptable play and a means to adjust play are paramount.
I always compare any lathe to the Colchester lathes l used to use .
Really like your work on the mini lathe! Have to change the bearing on my machine too and also think to install tapered gibs on the carriage :) Thanks for sharing!
Hope you and your loved ones are safe. Take care.
wow that's some precision work man!
well done!
6:11 What could possibly go wrong. Despite, that I hammer the safetyrules into my pupils, and telling them to never ever wear gloves at any machine with turning parts, if finally happened a few years ago... One person did wear gloves, the exact same type as you wear there, and lost half a finger... Torn off... So all be careful, pride comes before the fall.
On a lighter note: "Thank you for the great video"
Had a incident with gloves, happened very quickly.
Thanks now I will fix by bench press by first checking changing the bearings. Nice work.
Very good video, I look forward to making the upgrades on my 7x12 Craftex model, thanks for posting!
I appreciate seeing this. I just saved a lot of money.
4:00 a much improved upgrade for sure, nice work !
8:49 nice.
For a "standard" owner of a mini-lathe this is a great video. It makes the lathe better but, of cource, not best. I assume that you have taken the lathe from its regular position otherwise you should consider bolting it something heavy. Greasing "system" is good enough for this type of product. Pls carry on.
The tea needs to be hotter... Good video - thank you.
I'd avoid the habit of wearing gloves around machinery, even if it is "just" a drill press. Safety first. If it needs holding more securely, use a drill vice.
Machines, parts, you can replace. Your body parts are a little less expendible.
Only fools wear gloves around machinery!!
@@robertbutler8004 That also goes for cleaning rags/towels. These are too a no no on running machinery. Use a brush for removing swarf with the machine running.
Check the pre-load after you use the lathe for a while. Plastics tend to creep.
we all crib about the chinese lathes but pound for pound they cannot be beat ,I myself have had many and cannot complain, you get what you pay for ,they can make them better with roller bearings but its all down to cost now you have upgraded yours as would the manufacturer , but as to cost
Wouldn't it be a lot more honest if they sold their machines as a kit of parts... for you to finish and put together!
After all that is what most of the buyers of these contraptions end up doing (to get usable tool).
Like your upgrades - subscribed
Why should they be honest when they get fools to buy as is
"They" market these mini lathes to people like me - no prior machining experience, unsure if using a lathe will keep me entertained for more than a few weeks - who are intimidated by the thought of assembling a machine which might take your fingers off or send metal parts flying at high speeds. Pure hobbyists, in other words. I am in the market for a lathe, because I want to try something new at an age where others retire, and I cannot even dream of a decent quality lathe, which I estimate in the medium-to-high four figure price range. I envy people who know more about the whole subject, but here I am.
@@TheBipolarBearOh, don't you know you're supposed to just be born with a full machine shop in-tow? Who needs 'beginner lathes' at a good dabbling price, right? :P
@@jackpijjin4088 Shame on me for not knowing that. I guess I also fully deserve people telling me that my poverty disgusts them. 🤪
I think exactly the same way! The funny thing is that a many of the low end machines would bring more money sold that way.
invest in a deadblow, also cover your inner race in a wet papertowel, microwave it. if you want even more clearance throw your spindle in the freezer first in a bag. cool video.
I feel like microwaving steel is bad lol. Why can't you just use a torch?
Solder crush test add or subtract .002 for preload. (Depending on selective shim location.) Just like the TRBs in a transmission. Awesome video BTW.
I have the harbor freight version of this. Thanks for the ideas.
You can wind those tapered bearings up tighter than what you have done to reduce the main shaft movement to less than 2 thou. Have done same on an Emco Compact 8
agree with the others, very impressive work/mod, one of the best I've ever seen.!
Where can I buy this little tap wrench that has the guide on it where you put it in the lathe or the mill it's very nice.. I make a few thousand of them and sell them.
Thats impressive. A lot of good ideias, Thanks for the video
Did you grease those roller bearings ?
I like your upgades. Thanks for share it
Thanks!
I hate drilling brass and aluminum it always wants to grab and try to kill me.
Regrind the drill tip geometry so that there is zero angle in the longitudinal plane and then it won't grab ever again
Cu tot respectul, alama se prelucrează cu unghi de tăiere negativ al cititului sau burghiu .👍
Hi Congratulations, your videos are fantastic.
And thanks for sharing the stl.
I wonder, why did you add an additional thickness of about one/two mm behind the first bearing of the Spindle? what does it have to compensate for?
Is that printed too?
Sorry for all these questions but I'm new and I want to make the same changes to my lathe.
The thrust bearings on the cross slide are nice but you still have backlash fron the rod and nut poor tolerance.
I almost lost a finger doing what you did at 6:11. NEVER use gloves with any rotary tool 😢
8:53 It looks like your whole gauge is moving so the needle hardly moves. That gauge needs to stay rock solid to get a proper measurement.
great video with lots of good tips. Have you released the 3d printer files for the bear seats?
The link is in the description of the video
very satisfying video 😍
nice work , Ive done similar thing on my lathe too
When you own a lathe, everything looks like a diy project. Lol.
Truly...it does...lol. you start to look at bearings or motor shafts and think..."is it REALLY worth paying for someone else to make one?"
@@NeoIsrafil you can mill with one too, if you hold the endmill in a collet in the nose of the spindle. Use the cross slide as your x. Carriage is your z.
01:03 How about plastic gears do you think replace them? I heard that plastic gears will break in this lathe.
I will not replace the plastic gears, they serve as protectors against more serious breakdowns. Better buy some spare plastic just in case
Love them vids! Keep at it!
1:51 CX Bearing made in China for a Polish seller.
Good upgrade
Brother
Are you from Poland
Thanks! I'm from Ukraine
@@hammerland4028 good
I will meet you if I come to Ukraine
I see that you “tried” to lube the bearing. But when you installed the race it looks to have covered the hole. Was it offset or did it just look like that on the video?
Still no repacking the bearings? Don't expect them to last.
I know nothing about lathes so I'm wondering, is it true so many commentors have said it's cheaper to buy a better quality ( non Chinese) lathe than replace bearings etc? I would assume everything ( motor, gears, switches, lathe body etc ) would be better quality making it much more expensive.
That is to be debated. first answer would be yes but then comes in reality. A true lathe currently made in USA would be very hard to find if it even exists. If it does the price would be at least 5 to 10 times higher. The second option is an old made in USA lathe. Then if the bed is not worn out or rusted you still have to rebuild it end to end to include a modern motor. Still plenty of work and money. Next up is a quality import, likely a knock off of a US lathe and made in Thailand. Yes, that is your best bet but only if you have $4K and the room for such a lathe. also consider this, by the time you fix your mini Chinese lathe, you will actually know how to use a lathe and it fits in your garage, even upstairs in an apartment.
Is there polish eagle on Chuck? 9:55 or Im creazy?
This is a Polish coin
How do you lubricate the tapered roller bearings ?
You got a thumbs up for me….no question, great work, but man! You really need a bigger/better lathe, at least 10” swing. And maybe something that you can’t rock with one hand? Then you’d be unstoppable!
I would have not used plastic spacers for the timkin bearings, you should have used arbor shims to prevent deformation.
Если между коническими подшипниками поставить втулку с точно обработанными торцами, жесткость шпинделя увеличится в разы. Один минус - запаришься его собирать-разбирать для примерок.
Нужно изготовить втулку из свинца и с ней отрегулировать затем разобрать изамерить размер после обжатия свинца и изготовить стальную сразу в размер -время сэкономиш
Can you share the stl files for the bearing covers you printed?
drive.google.com/drive/folders/19aP3tOtGQFNVvU389yPeWK6U5EaFjmJZ?usp=sharing
What is the diameter of the chuck？100mm or 125mm?
100
How do you know when the tapered roller bearings need a shot of lube without a visual inspection, lolz?
I add a little lube before every job
Nice video, thanks for share!
Nice upgrades. Spindle deflection of 0.05mm seems a big high, is that due to the spindle shaft flexing ?
I think yes
hello ,nice job friend ,what is machine model name ? , i thinking i buy this one
Nice modifications
Have to ask-have a chinese-lathe whit a problem that i hasnt seen anyone mentioned-i struggled whit getting the compound to be stable,finaly i measured the ways back and front,and they are not even..the back way is thicker at tailstock-end and front is thicker at chuck end,so need to do some grinding on the underside of the ways- has anyone come across this before? -the compound "pinches in the back on a long workpiece,and pinches at the front near the chuck..had to tighten and schim the brackets on the underside in a weard way,now it's managble,but quite hard to turn the handwheel
Ich habe eine Frage was hast du für ein Motor in deiner drehbank ❓❓❓meiner hatt 550 w Drehzahl ok aber keine Kraft mfg Uwe
_What is the blue goo at _*_4:47_**_?_* 🤔
Bearing grease
are you using the lathe with that spindle play?
great work !!!
Thank you
I used angular bearings and has very little run out
Nice ! ❤ love machines😉👍🇧🇷🇧🇷 like 3.4K 👏👏👏👏
Good starter lathe!
why did you change into a new black spindle flange?
Знакомое видео и знакомые переделки. -)
Это дежавю)
Ёпте, думал что-то новое увижу, потом думал что кто-то спиз....л контент у нашего земляка. А это тоже самое, ээээ, расходимся. :)
Wow im french and say Nice !!!
This would be a lot more watchable without the incessant drum beating in the background. Is that really necessary?
Turn your volume off....done and done
Mute it
@@eddyherrera6326yeah, thats literally it...
If there was a talking/explaining going on from the creator, that would be a different story, but he didnt say a single word, so idk why should it matter if it was muted or not.
Or does Varnaj42 want to hear the sound of hammering in its full fidelity?
Beat Poppin though 🔥
GRANDIOSO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
tapered bearings are not suitable for high and fast rotating lathes.suitable is the closed face bearing.
so good
OMG. NEVER wear gloves when using the pillar drill !! Or hold small parts like that with your fingers, especially brass !
But thanks for the video. Some good ideas. Cheers.
Fantastic
Ha, just seen it at 4:47 🙄
Welldone
some words would be nice!
Ye kaha milega iska dham kitna hi my khareedna chahataahu
Made in China fixed in America. I have done it many times.
Making a lot of parts on a lathe that you have torn all apart
Rất nhiều video hay ❤
What amature holds parts by hand in a drill press?
Those bearings need to be packed with grease before installation.
I suggest a dumpster instead of new bearings
Файно!)
You were my hero until I saw you use channel locks.😢😢😂😂😂😂
You should do videos without music
It's like asmr without
es verdadera escuela.
I guess I don’t understand the economics of lathe manufacturing. The changes you made could easily be done at the factory. If roller bearings added $50 to the price, so what?
Don't wear gloves using rotating machinery and don't hand hold parts on a pillar drill.
A great video apart from the cringeworthy safety.
So what are you doing? A little narration please!
All of the time, effort and cost that has gone into this, I'm really not sure it is worth it at all. It'd be better to save up and buy a better lathe. Having said that, as an exercise in what can be done though to build a better machine, I applaud your fortitude and dedication.
The entire point of this channel is to get views. It's not about the lathe, lol.
Find me a 'better' lathe that beginners, who mostly simply don't have the money, in the case of brand new, or the background experience to be able to do a sufficient assessment to know they're not getting a lemon, in the case of second-hand.
Okay, the US is lucky in that they have Precision Matthews who seem to do a fantastic job of QCing and improving the import lathes they buy, but for people living elsewhere, it's a bit of a crapshoot. Unlike in the US, where you seem to find well-cared-for South Bends at the local church jumble sale, tidy second hand machine tools are not that common elsewhere.
All you can do is find an importer who offers good aftersales backup and the 'better' end of the import machinery product spectrum (PM pick Weiss lathes for a reason). Then it's off to the stripdown-degrease-clean-deburr-gib-adjustment-bearing-change races you go.
Nobody who has the money for a well built, professional quality, small lathe buys a Chinese mini-lathe. Only people who don't sensibly have another choice buy them and fettling, upgrading and tuning them is part of the hobby.
If you're going to wear gloves they have to be all rubber they cannot have any fabric inside the rubber just rubber it will tear.
no puedo creer que ustedes puedan comprar un torno donde lo mas importante que son los engranajes sean hechos de pastico . ustedes son unos -----------
Plastic gears are the best in this machine
👌⚙️
😱Tapered roller bearings for main axle😱 are not a upgrade. And this tipe of bearings need a gap of installation, and not tigtening hard
The use of deep groove bearings for axial loads in spindle is nothing but scam. All cheap Chinese ball screw supporting blocks come with deep groove bearings instead of dupIex pairs. I also encounter deep groove bearings in Sieg's spindles for several times. OPTIMUM machine came with roller bearings though so nothing to complaint about that.