Thanks for putting up these videos, I found them very helpful as I've just replaced the leaking oil cooler on my daughter's 140k mile mk7 golf 1.8 tsi. Not exactly the same as yours but very near enough. Same problem... Black oiled up gunk leaking externally....also had very slight amount of oil getting into the coolant. Seal was hard and brittle like yours. Replaced that... My cooler seemed OK but I'd already bought another so did that too. While I was in there.... Also did the water pump, injectors and valve cleaning.... Was a busy 3 days!
Lol… I was pretty much doing the same thing. Which led me to find all the caked on oil… plus my radiator fans would stay on longer than “normal”. My Saturday decarb turned into, “hey love, can you pick me up and drop me off on Monday?”
@@nickgustin lol yeah, funny how these jobs often go like that 😁 To top mine off, after I replaced the oil cooler to that accessory bracket seal, there was still some leakage from the other seal to the engine block. So the last thing I did was remove the alternator, ac compressor and bracket to get to that one too! And that finally fixed all leaking!!
No problem! I just posted a video about the accessory bracket, virtually same out come, just a different route. That video has a list of tools, steps, and tips in the description.
@@nickgustin thanks, I"ll check it out as i've just put the intake back on after cleaning the valves. It's thrown an intake code 2014 so i need to take it off again and any steps on making that easier is appreciated as I found it the most annoying part. cheers
Great video! So I have a 2010 VW Tiguan that recently started accumulating oil at coolant bottle. The vehicle never overheated to my understanding so I doubt it’s the headgasket. I’m aware that there are 2 oil coolers. One you are pointing out on this video and one attached on top of the transmission. Could you suggest ways I could figure out which oil cooler is mixing coolant with oil?
If i need to replace the oil cooler, i need to take out the water pump?in some procedures i saw only accesories and the alternator, also A.C Compressor need to be untight, but not removed.
If you still haven't done it. The way you said is the best way to do it and also the fastest because you also need to replace the gasket from the oil filter housing because it tends to leak. I would also buy a water pump union pipe.
@Alin I. I did this maintenance as I performed a decarb… it was easier for me to get to the oil cooler via removal of the water pump. Now, some people have a leak at the oil filter bracket and the oil cooler…. If you are going to remove the oil filter bracket, I would utilize the steps you mentioned via the accessory belt. Best wishes!
I’m doing this job on my 2010 cc. Just so I know - did you have any difficulty with adding back the water pump union between the cooler and water pump? I know it’s a tight fit but I don’t want to push too hard getting that union in place
Yes, it was a little tricky. I just got it wet with anti-freeze left in the block, but it still probably would have been easier if I used a little WD-40. If it gives anyone some piece of mind: That piece is shaped the way it is so that you have the play for re-assembly. With a lot of patience and some finesse, you’ll make it happen. I think I ended up placing it inside the water pump and kind of guiding the two pieces onto the oil cooler at the same time…. I’d rather do two de-carbs than one job with the water pump. I just hate the thing (especially that union).
@@nickgustin Thanks Nick! This one was completely my fault. I realized that I'd accidentally ordered a "union" for a CC model year 2-3 years newer.. very similar shape but slightly larger. Reordered and it fit as it should. I did add some dielectric grease to the o rings which helped the union pop right into place. Thanks again for this video!
My coolant is mixing with my oil I have a 2015 mk7 gti and my coolant shut off valve used to be the cause of it but now it’s something else. I’ve been thinking of changing out the oil cooler do you think there’s anything else that’ll be the cause of that issue?
@@nickgustin The knock sensor is in the way preventing access to the bottom right bolt. If you remove the knock sensor, you can more easily remove/reinstall the oil cooler. I used a M10 Triple Square 3/8" socket and a wobble extension. The knock sensor bolt torque spec is 20nm, as per VW/Audi erWin.
Hi I’m about to attempt to replace my oil cooler (2010 1.2 polo) just a question regarding when you attach the new cooler. Is there supposed to be a sealant or o rings? Am I supposed to apply anything so it seals & connects to filter housing tightly?
There is only a gasket at the back. There is a union that joins the oil cooler and the water pump, this union is cheap and when purchased comes with both o-rings. I recommend changing that union while you’re in the area. Lastly, you can get to the oil cooler by removing the accessory bracket instead of going from the top like I did. I just posted the video about the accessory bracket with steps and tools listed in that videos description.
Hi can i check. How do you know is the oil cooler issue? As currently my oil temp have been running quite high. Workshop suspect it could be the oil cooler. But i'm not too sure about it.
I only had a leak. I knew the leak was at the oil cooler because of all the oil in the area. I made a part 3 of this video where I discovered the oil cooler would barely allow air to pass through (probably wasn’t allowing much coolant to pass). It’s worth watching to get an idea of how these oil coolers fail.
Thanks for putting up these videos, I found them very helpful as I've just replaced the leaking oil cooler on my daughter's 140k mile mk7 golf 1.8 tsi. Not exactly the same as yours but very near enough. Same problem... Black oiled up gunk leaking externally....also had very slight amount of oil getting into the coolant. Seal was hard and brittle like yours. Replaced that... My cooler seemed OK but I'd already bought another so did that too. While I was in there.... Also did the water pump, injectors and valve cleaning.... Was a busy 3 days!
Lol… I was pretty much doing the same thing. Which led me to find all the caked on oil… plus my radiator fans would stay on longer than “normal”. My Saturday decarb turned into, “hey love, can you pick me up and drop me off on Monday?”
@@nickgustin lol yeah, funny how these jobs often go like that 😁 To top mine off, after I replaced the oil cooler to that accessory bracket seal, there was still some leakage from the other seal to the engine block. So the last thing I did was remove the alternator, ac compressor and bracket to get to that one too! And that finally fixed all leaking!!
thanks for the vid dude.
No problem! I just posted a video about the accessory bracket, virtually same out come, just a different route. That video has a list of tools, steps, and tips in the description.
@@nickgustin thanks, I"ll check it out as i've just put the intake back on after cleaning the valves. It's thrown an intake code 2014 so i need to take it off again and any steps on making that easier is appreciated as I found it the most annoying part. cheers
Great video! So I have a 2010 VW Tiguan that recently started accumulating oil at coolant bottle. The vehicle never overheated to my understanding so I doubt it’s the headgasket. I’m aware that there are 2 oil coolers. One you are pointing out on this video and one attached on top of the transmission.
Could you suggest ways I could figure out which oil cooler is mixing coolant with oil?
What is a triple square?
How did you clean it
If i need to replace the oil cooler, i need to take out the water pump?in some procedures i saw only accesories and the alternator, also A.C Compressor need to be untight, but not removed.
If you still haven't done it. The way you said is the best way to do it and also the fastest because you also need to replace the gasket from the oil filter housing because it tends to leak. I would also buy a water pump union pipe.
ua-cam.com/video/a7p5NQwJupI/v-deo.html
@Alin I. I did this maintenance as I performed a decarb… it was easier for me to get to the oil cooler via removal of the water pump.
Now, some people have a leak at the oil filter bracket and the oil cooler…. If you are going to remove the oil filter bracket, I would utilize the steps you mentioned via the accessory belt.
Best wishes!
I’m doing this job on my 2010 cc. Just so I know - did you have any difficulty with adding back the water pump union between the cooler and water pump? I know it’s a tight fit but I don’t want to push too hard getting that union in place
Yes, it was a little tricky. I just got it wet with anti-freeze left in the block, but it still probably would have been easier if I used a little WD-40.
If it gives anyone some piece of mind: That piece is shaped the way it is so that you have the play for re-assembly. With a lot of patience and some finesse, you’ll make it happen.
I think I ended up placing it inside the water pump and kind of guiding the two pieces onto the oil cooler at the same time…. I’d rather do two de-carbs than one job with the water pump. I just hate the thing (especially that union).
@@nickgustin Thanks Nick! This one was completely my fault. I realized that I'd accidentally ordered a "union" for a CC model year 2-3 years newer.. very similar shape but slightly larger. Reordered and it fit as it should. I did add some dielectric grease to the o rings which helped the union pop right into place. Thanks again for this video!
My coolant is mixing with my oil I have a 2015 mk7 gti and my coolant shut off valve used to be the cause of it but now it’s something else. I’ve been thinking of changing out the oil cooler do you think there’s anything else that’ll be the cause of that issue?
Hi Nick im doing ghis and new water pump today. Do you know torque specs for cooler bolts. Or just tight as u can without breaking it. Thanks
If I remember correctly, I think I used 25nm. I did a quick search and a few threads say the same thing.
How did you remove the lower right bolt? Can’t get a socket in the corner due to the angle.
Sorry for the late response: with the water pump removed, I was able to get the bottom right out with an extension and a ratchet.
@@nickgustin The knock sensor is in the way preventing access to the bottom right bolt. If you remove the knock sensor, you can more easily remove/reinstall the oil cooler. I used a M10 Triple Square 3/8" socket and a wobble extension. The knock sensor bolt torque spec is 20nm, as per VW/Audi erWin.
Hi I’m about to attempt to replace my oil cooler (2010 1.2 polo) just a question regarding when you attach the new cooler. Is there supposed to be a sealant or o rings? Am I supposed to apply anything so it seals & connects to filter housing tightly?
There is only a gasket at the back. There is a union that joins the oil cooler and the water pump, this union is cheap and when purchased comes with both o-rings. I recommend changing that union while you’re in the area.
Lastly, you can get to the oil cooler by removing the accessory bracket instead of going from the top like I did. I just posted the video about the accessory bracket with steps and tools listed in that videos description.
Hi can i check. How do you know is the oil cooler issue? As currently my oil temp have been running quite high. Workshop suspect it could be the oil cooler. But i'm not too sure about it.
I only had a leak. I knew the leak was at the oil cooler because of all the oil in the area. I made a part 3 of this video where I discovered the oil cooler would barely allow air to pass through (probably wasn’t allowing much coolant to pass). It’s worth watching to get an idea of how these oil coolers fail.
So i need to do this job. Do you have the list of all the tools ill need and how easy is it from 1 to 10?
I just posted a video removing the accessory bracket. In the description is a list of steps, tools, and tips.