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Nicholas Gustin
Приєднався 26 лют 2012
From time to time I’ll do some maintenance and make a video about it (mostly on cars)… I make a video if I cannot find a video to help me, or the video I found lacked pieces of information I needed to know more about. Most of my videos will be short, have multiple parts, and not be very high quality (sorry).
Best wishes!
Best wishes!
VW CC Accessory Bracket (Oil Filter Bracket)
Video shows the bracket removed from the car, as well as how the A/C stays in the car braced by a bungee cord.
***WARNING: Must disconnect Battery for this maintenance.***
(Tools)Steps:
(14mm) Remove passenger tire.
(T25) Remove your passenger wheel plastics (two parts) and the plastic skid plate/splash guard.
(T30) Remove two fasteners that hold your turbo pipe(s) (accessible via wheel well), this pipe(s) blocks your access to the serpentine belt. There are also two fasters that hold plastic coolant lines to your intake up top (these need some wiggle room to help you get the alternator out). There is a single fastener holding the dip stick right below the oil filter (showed you on the video).
(17mm) You’ll need to remove your serpentine belt at the tensioner (good time to replace your belt). You do NOT need to lock the tensioner into place, it’s fine.
(13mm) The alternator is held by four 13mm hex bolts. ***Warning: Disconnect battery before removing terminal on the back of the Alternator.*** Once you remove the four hex bolts, slide the alternator slightly to the passenger side for easier access to the electrical connections. There is a nut holding a battery terminal on the back of the alternator. It’s got a plastic cover, my alternator’s plastic cover was on there tight, I used a flat head to pop it off. There is also an electrical plug on the back.
(13mm) The A/C is held by three hex bolts. Do not remove your A/C unit fully. Let it dangle, but do not kink the hoses. I used a bungee cord to ease the stress on the piping and hoses. There is an electrical plug on the back of the a/c unit… use your judgement, but I removed mine.
(M10 and torque wrench) The accessory bracket should now be free of the serpentine belt, dip stick fastener, alternator, and a/c unit. There is one electrical connection up by the filter. The bracket is held onto the block by five M10 triple square bolts (as seen in the video) and will require a torque of 20Newtons +90 degrees when you reinstall it (the +90 degrees is kind of hard to pull off, just do your best and remember to be gentle).
Lastly you’ll need a pick to remove the old gasket. My old gasket was hard as a rock and somewhat brittle. You’ll need the replacement gasket (Part Number: 06J-115-441-A).
When you take off the accessory bracket, you will lose a bit of oil and coolant, be sure to have a pan under the car. You will loose a bit of oil (quarter of a quart 5w-40) and about a gallon of coolant (G12 or European Violet).
Maintenance takes about 5 hours if everything is clean and you’re moving with a purpose (to include fluids replacement. Add about 3 hours if everything is caked with oil because you put this off for months (like I did)…. Took me about 8 hours (I am not a mechanic by trade).
In the case of a clean-up: you’ll need degreaser (simple green works great). Brake cleaner makes those hard to reach areas a little easier to blast/flush clean (WEAR EYE PROTECTION). Of course a good supply of rags helps. I pressure washed my bracket when I had it removed, be sure to protect the sensor plug if you do this… everything is de-energized, but always good practice to keep electrical connections free from debris.
From 1-10, I feel this was about a 4.
(If 1=changing spark plugs or fluids, and 10= changing the rear main seal or replacing the timing chain).
Hope this helps.
***WARNING: Must disconnect Battery for this maintenance.***
(Tools)Steps:
(14mm) Remove passenger tire.
(T25) Remove your passenger wheel plastics (two parts) and the plastic skid plate/splash guard.
(T30) Remove two fasteners that hold your turbo pipe(s) (accessible via wheel well), this pipe(s) blocks your access to the serpentine belt. There are also two fasters that hold plastic coolant lines to your intake up top (these need some wiggle room to help you get the alternator out). There is a single fastener holding the dip stick right below the oil filter (showed you on the video).
(17mm) You’ll need to remove your serpentine belt at the tensioner (good time to replace your belt). You do NOT need to lock the tensioner into place, it’s fine.
(13mm) The alternator is held by four 13mm hex bolts. ***Warning: Disconnect battery before removing terminal on the back of the Alternator.*** Once you remove the four hex bolts, slide the alternator slightly to the passenger side for easier access to the electrical connections. There is a nut holding a battery terminal on the back of the alternator. It’s got a plastic cover, my alternator’s plastic cover was on there tight, I used a flat head to pop it off. There is also an electrical plug on the back.
(13mm) The A/C is held by three hex bolts. Do not remove your A/C unit fully. Let it dangle, but do not kink the hoses. I used a bungee cord to ease the stress on the piping and hoses. There is an electrical plug on the back of the a/c unit… use your judgement, but I removed mine.
(M10 and torque wrench) The accessory bracket should now be free of the serpentine belt, dip stick fastener, alternator, and a/c unit. There is one electrical connection up by the filter. The bracket is held onto the block by five M10 triple square bolts (as seen in the video) and will require a torque of 20Newtons +90 degrees when you reinstall it (the +90 degrees is kind of hard to pull off, just do your best and remember to be gentle).
Lastly you’ll need a pick to remove the old gasket. My old gasket was hard as a rock and somewhat brittle. You’ll need the replacement gasket (Part Number: 06J-115-441-A).
When you take off the accessory bracket, you will lose a bit of oil and coolant, be sure to have a pan under the car. You will loose a bit of oil (quarter of a quart 5w-40) and about a gallon of coolant (G12 or European Violet).
Maintenance takes about 5 hours if everything is clean and you’re moving with a purpose (to include fluids replacement. Add about 3 hours if everything is caked with oil because you put this off for months (like I did)…. Took me about 8 hours (I am not a mechanic by trade).
In the case of a clean-up: you’ll need degreaser (simple green works great). Brake cleaner makes those hard to reach areas a little easier to blast/flush clean (WEAR EYE PROTECTION). Of course a good supply of rags helps. I pressure washed my bracket when I had it removed, be sure to protect the sensor plug if you do this… everything is de-energized, but always good practice to keep electrical connections free from debris.
From 1-10, I feel this was about a 4.
(If 1=changing spark plugs or fluids, and 10= changing the rear main seal or replacing the timing chain).
Hope this helps.
Переглядів: 272
Відео
2.0 TSI Oil leak at oil cooler part 3
Переглядів 10 тис.2 роки тому
2.0 TSI Oil leak at oil cooler part 2
Переглядів 9 тис.2 роки тому
This is the last video I took before buttoning everything up. I couldn’t find torque specs for the triple square. After some searching on the net, the consensus was between 15 and 20 ft lbs. I went criss-cross between the four bolts at 15 ft lbs first…. It felt a little light, so I upped it to 20 ft lbs next.
2.0 TSI oil leak at oil cooler part 1
Переглядів 28 тис.2 роки тому
Over the course of a year, I was discovering oil drips in my drive way, then began picking up the slight smell of burning oil, during oil changes I started to notice more and more oil on the oil pan coming from the front of the engine. After some UA-cam research, it came down to either the oil cooler gasket or upper timing chain gasket failing. I was coming into the window to do my decarb and d...
What is a triple square?
Great video! So I have a 2010 VW Tiguan that recently started accumulating oil at coolant bottle. The vehicle never overheated to my understanding so I doubt it’s the headgasket. I’m aware that there are 2 oil coolers. One you are pointing out on this video and one attached on top of the transmission. Could you suggest ways I could figure out which oil cooler is mixing coolant with oil?
How did you clean it
Can you post a video of taking it off
My coolant is mixing with my oil I have a 2015 mk7 gti and my coolant shut off valve used to be the cause of it but now it’s something else. I’ve been thinking of changing out the oil cooler do you think there’s anything else that’ll be the cause of that issue?
👍 *PromoSM*
They cost $70 new now 😮
I paid 25 on eBay 💀 wish me luck
I have one or more leaks in my oil filter cooler and/or oil filter bracket. I can see one leak near the top of the oil cooler and thought I needed to remove the intake manifold to remove the oil filter cooler. Based on your three videos it looks like I should skip removal of the intake manifold and instead remove the alternator/AC unit.
Absolutely go from accessory belt side. It’s so much easier. The only reason I went from my intake a long time ago was because I was doing a de-carb at the time. The intake is such a pain with the high pressure fuel line, multiple wire harnesses, the support bracket, re-building your injectors, the two bottom/center helix coils that your bound to find stripped…. Yes, go this route from the passenger side. The wheel well plastics are a pain in their own right, but I do what ever I can to leave the intake alone. The intake is just a pain.
Hi Nick im doing ghis and new water pump today. Do you know torque specs for cooler bolts. Or just tight as u can without breaking it. Thanks
If I remember correctly, I think I used 25nm. I did a quick search and a few threads say the same thing.
What brand you bought for replacement?
OEM
Read description for torque spec, tools, steps, maintenance time, and tips.
thanks for the vid dude.
No problem! I just posted a video about the accessory bracket, virtually same out come, just a different route. That video has a list of tools, steps, and tips in the description.
@@nickgustin thanks, I"ll check it out as i've just put the intake back on after cleaning the valves. It's thrown an intake code 2014 so i need to take it off again and any steps on making that easier is appreciated as I found it the most annoying part. cheers
Hi I’m about to attempt to replace my oil cooler (2010 1.2 polo) just a question regarding when you attach the new cooler. Is there supposed to be a sealant or o rings? Am I supposed to apply anything so it seals & connects to filter housing tightly?
There is only a gasket at the back. There is a union that joins the oil cooler and the water pump, this union is cheap and when purchased comes with both o-rings. I recommend changing that union while you’re in the area. Lastly, you can get to the oil cooler by removing the accessory bracket instead of going from the top like I did. I just posted the video about the accessory bracket with steps and tools listed in that videos description.
Hi can i check. How do you know is the oil cooler issue? As currently my oil temp have been running quite high. Workshop suspect it could be the oil cooler. But i'm not too sure about it.
I only had a leak. I knew the leak was at the oil cooler because of all the oil in the area. I made a part 3 of this video where I discovered the oil cooler would barely allow air to pass through (probably wasn’t allowing much coolant to pass). It’s worth watching to get an idea of how these oil coolers fail.
So i need to do this job. Do you have the list of all the tools ill need and how easy is it from 1 to 10?
I just posted a video removing the accessory bracket. In the description is a list of steps, tools, and tips.
I’m doing this job on my 2010 cc. Just so I know - did you have any difficulty with adding back the water pump union between the cooler and water pump? I know it’s a tight fit but I don’t want to push too hard getting that union in place
Yes, it was a little tricky. I just got it wet with anti-freeze left in the block, but it still probably would have been easier if I used a little WD-40. If it gives anyone some piece of mind: That piece is shaped the way it is so that you have the play for re-assembly. With a lot of patience and some finesse, you’ll make it happen. I think I ended up placing it inside the water pump and kind of guiding the two pieces onto the oil cooler at the same time…. I’d rather do two de-carbs than one job with the water pump. I just hate the thing (especially that union).
@@nickgustin Thanks Nick! This one was completely my fault. I realized that I'd accidentally ordered a "union" for a CC model year 2-3 years newer.. very similar shape but slightly larger. Reordered and it fit as it should. I did add some dielectric grease to the o rings which helped the union pop right into place. Thanks again for this video!
Thanks for putting up these videos, I found them very helpful as I've just replaced the leaking oil cooler on my daughter's 140k mile mk7 golf 1.8 tsi. Not exactly the same as yours but very near enough. Same problem... Black oiled up gunk leaking externally....also had very slight amount of oil getting into the coolant. Seal was hard and brittle like yours. Replaced that... My cooler seemed OK but I'd already bought another so did that too. While I was in there.... Also did the water pump, injectors and valve cleaning.... Was a busy 3 days!
Lol… I was pretty much doing the same thing. Which led me to find all the caked on oil… plus my radiator fans would stay on longer than “normal”. My Saturday decarb turned into, “hey love, can you pick me up and drop me off on Monday?”
@@nickgustin lol yeah, funny how these jobs often go like that 😁 To top mine off, after I replaced the oil cooler to that accessory bracket seal, there was still some leakage from the other seal to the engine block. So the last thing I did was remove the alternator, ac compressor and bracket to get to that one too! And that finally fixed all leaking!!
What is the location of the oil cooler?
ua-cam.com/video/NCuJmcp4Y_Y/v-deo.html. Here is a link to part 1 of my journey. The oil cooler attaches to the oil filter housing at its lowest point. From there it attaches to the water pump via an adapter.
Did you cut it open ? I wonder if using the wrong coolant caused corrosion to build up in this heat exchanger?
I never cut it open. That is a good thought about the wrong coolant. I too suspect that because no one is really talking about this… or making videos about it.
@Tuno Hangula It never overheated, but my radiator fans would stay on longer than normal during normal driving. Since the replacement of the oil cooler; when the car is off, the fans are too. Everything went back to normal. Btw: the fans staying on was a progressive thing. It wasn’t something that just happened. The whole cooling system in my car degraded item by item. First was my heater core (only half of the dash would defrost),then my water pump started leaking, then my oil cooler (which I made this video). I just got a new radiator… i plan on making a video for it sometime this month. Best wishes!
How was the oil temps
To my knowledge, the oil temps were fine. I never got any dash indications and my oil levels were always good between changes (I change every 5k miles, instead of 10k as recommended by VW)… so nothing was cooking off w/i 5k miles that I would see on the dip stick. My engine temps were always good too. No overheating. A few months before this maintenance, my heater core went out in a way that only the driver’s side of the car would get heat. This is unrelated, but shows how at the ten year mark my car’s cooling system was slowly degrading.
Shittiest vw engine ever!
I found the torque specs for my engine (Audi TT CETA 2.0T Petrol) in the service manual from Audi erWin. It lists the torque at 15nm or ~11ft-lbs. That does seem a little light. This is on my list for tomorrow. I might go 15ft-lbs with a little blue LocTite. I certainly don't want to dig back down to this level to redo the work if/when the seal starts leaking.
If i need to replace the oil cooler, i need to take out the water pump?in some procedures i saw only accesories and the alternator, also A.C Compressor need to be untight, but not removed.
If you still haven't done it. The way you said is the best way to do it and also the fastest because you also need to replace the gasket from the oil filter housing because it tends to leak. I would also buy a water pump union pipe.
ua-cam.com/video/a7p5NQwJupI/v-deo.html
@Alin I. I did this maintenance as I performed a decarb… it was easier for me to get to the oil cooler via removal of the water pump. Now, some people have a leak at the oil filter bracket and the oil cooler…. If you are going to remove the oil filter bracket, I would utilize the steps you mentioned via the accessory belt. Best wishes!
How did you remove the lower right bolt? Can’t get a socket in the corner due to the angle.
Sorry for the late response: with the water pump removed, I was able to get the bottom right out with an extension and a ratchet.
@@nickgustin The knock sensor is in the way preventing access to the bottom right bolt. If you remove the knock sensor, you can more easily remove/reinstall the oil cooler. I used a M10 Triple Square 3/8" socket and a wobble extension. The knock sensor bolt torque spec is 20nm, as per VW/Audi erWin.