Harley Benton SC Guitar Kit - Assembly
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- Welcome to the Next Project!
In this episode, I'll be assembling the Thomann/Harley Benton SC Guitar Kit.
This kit was purchased to review the quality, fit and finish of the Thomann HB kits. Then to be used as a platform for and extreme modification project.
We will take a look at some items to look for when assembling one of these economical guitar kits. In this particular case, the fret ends were cheese grater sharp, so rounding the fret ends was among the first assembly items to happen, I also leveled, crowned and polished the frets. The frets weren't terrible, and the leveling wasn't something that HAD to be done, but with most affordable kits like this, doing this process will take it from just OK, to VERY GOOD with just a little effort.
The next item needing attention during the assembly was the TOM bridge. On this kit, there were two saddle adjustment screws that would not stay in place. This would have made setting the intonation nearly impossible, and likely to fail if achieved. So, a 5 minute fix remedied the issue, and that is covered in the video.
The only other item needed is a good set of strings, as the supplied strings - just aren't good enough. Get a good set of strings!
All-in-all, this is a decent paint-grade kit. It's not perfect, but if you are looking for an easy to assemble project, this is a good start.
You should plan on addressing the frets, leveling, crowning, rounding and polishing them will make a HUGH improvement to this budget kit. Repair or upgrade the bridge if needed and spend some money on good strings.
I hope you enjoy the video, and stay tuned for the Assembly Video - Coming Soon!
Please be sure to Ring the Bell and Subscribe so you are notified when the Build Video drops, and leave a comment. I greatly appreciate feedback.
#diykitchallenge22 #diykitchallenge #harleybenton - Розваги
Excellent, really helpful video. The tip about testing the wiring outside of the body and labelling the connectors was particularly useful.
Thanks a lot.
Gary D, glad the video was helpful.
Things like testing the wiring before installing it, is a common thing that I have overlooked in the past.
Often I assume everything will work, then - it doesn't.
As for this wiring loom, it really does help to get everything sorted out before stuffing it into the body.
Connections that are all the same color are - annoying for the kit builder, but cost effective for the mfg.
I'm just discovering your channel and the whole sc kit serie and that's it there's a new subscriber here!
Thanks man, welcome!
Great video, nicely presented. Clear and structured.
strummerali, thanks for watching!
Glad you enjoyed the video and found it well delivered. Stay tuned, more projects coming.
Be safe and take care!
Very well done instructional video. I'm not afraid to do it anymore. Thanks.
Thanks for watching, and glad the video may help you jump in. No need to worry about putting things together, if it doesn't work, try again.
Be safe and take care!
Great video. I have one of these kits, apart from the fret ends mine was excellent - the frets were level and excellent. I cannot wait for seeing what you with this guitar.
Stuart Grier, I'm glad your kit is a good one too.
The frets on my project guitar weren't terrible, but leveling and polishing them even more enjoyable. Not saying it had to be done, and as your kit shows, it's a really good kit guitar without that extra step.
I will be posting another step in the mod process soon. I'm doing some veneer testing, setting up a vacuum pump, designing headstock and f-hole shapes... a lot of little things that would put people to sleep in a video.
Enjoy your guitar and - Stay Tuned!
Great work....big thumbs up!!
Fin Corrigan, Thank you very much!
Very good video buddy one of the better ones ive seen. Thanks a lot. I saved this for later use. And info. 😎👋👋🎸
Mike, thanks for watching!
Hope the video is of some help, and check out the mod project series to see what became of this guitar.
Be safe and take care!
Cool video dude. I'll be looking forward to others. Thx. 🤟
Glad you enjoyed the vid.
Be warned, there is no good reason for any of the mod projects. I just like the challenge.
I bought the HB T-Style kit. Went together well. Frets were in good order too. I use it as my learning guitar (set ups etc)
@Darren Franklin, that's good to hear.
I have a TE kit build coming up, with an Acoustisonic mod to follow. Probably won't get to that project til late this year.
Enjoy your guitar!
Great job on the frets! 👍
@ Emilio De Filippo, thank you!
Great video, thanks for sharing your experience. Would have like to have heard it played but no problem.
@Kevin Cuthbert, thanks man!
I agree, there should have been a few chords or such to represent the general sound of the assembled kit. Sorry bout that, I'll include "kit samples" in the next project.
As for this project, check out the extreme overhaul video series this kit is undergoing.
Absolutely no reason to do such modification, but that hasn't stopped me.
Thanks again, take care!
A well done video. Thanks
Joshua Brande, thank you very much. I'm glad you like the video.
Cool vid! Hoping to build stuff like this some day...
@Avi Elkharrat, thank you and glad you like the vid.
If you are looking to assemble a kit, you will need few tools assuming the frets are in order. If you watch the following mod video series, the tools, time and patience will increase and vary.
Good luck with any projects you take on!
I use Dremel as well for my fret job but after testing a lot of different stuff to polish I found the solid conpound for sharpening tool is the best!! A an amalgam of super fine metallic oxyde and the finish result is top notch...
Alex, thanks for watching.
Sounds like you have a good polishing process going!
Stay safe, take care!
@@theNextProject Thanks, take care too!
Wish H.B would come out with some set neck kits!
Love your video’s good build!
Thanks Patrick!
It would be nice if they would offer a set neck kit option, maybe in time.
There are a number of other LP style kits which do offer a set neck, I don't have any suggestions, as I have concerns that each kit may be a unique build experience. I mean, you could get a great kit, or a dud.
That may be why HB is not offering a set neck option too, the potential for assembly problems would increase. bolt on (screw on) necks are suited for mass consumption.
Have you checked out the mod project based on this kit?
If not, I hope you enjoy that series, a lot of trial and error...
Take care!
This is a good video!!!
Thanks for watchin!
just bought one of these and I was mesmerized by your video. I can't wait to do my own!
burlone76, I hope your kit is a good one.
From what I've heard, most people find them to be a very well produced product.
As you may have gathered form my vids, I didn't have many issues with the kit.
The fret ends were really the biggest problem, but you can have that on a new showroom guitar as well.
Enjoy your next project!
Nice vid!
Harry, thanks for watching.
Check out the mod project series for this kit guitar. It was a lot of fun, and turned out pretty nice.
Take care!
Great video. So, what does it sound like through the champ? I'd love to hear some before as a baseline for what you're going to do next.
Gulp, well my playing ability may drive people away, but I know what you're saying.
I'll do a few hundred takes and post a modest sound bite. At least it should be entertaining, if not sadly hilarious.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I'm learning a lot about that process as I go along as well.
Take care!
Really enjoying this content, your channel is right up my street! :-)
dr-nerd, thanks!
As you may be picking up from my videos... I start with a plan, and occasionally deviate from it.
Sadly, just about everything I do is a project. I seem to trip over things to fix or modify, the stuff is everywhere. I just don't have time to video my entire day, so I choose to show these "fun" head-scratcher projects (why did I start this project?!).
Glad you are enjoying the show, hope your projects go well for you!
Wow man! Thank you so much for upload this video! Can i install only bridge pick up and the only volume knob ?
@Pezzi bui, Thank you!
I'm sure you can install only the bridge pickup and only a volume know. To do so, I expect you'll have to remove the quick-connect wiring ends, and solder the wiring leads accordingly to the Vol pot, Pick up, and output jack. A stripped down single pickup guitar would be nice, no fuss, just finger ripping fun!
Good luck with your project!
@@theNextProject thank you so much man (:
Thanks for the great tutorial! Of the various manufacturers of guitar kits, which would you say is best?
That may be a difficult question to answer.
What I say is the best may be someone else's average, or vise-versa. I rate this HB kit is a 7.5 out of 10. Which I consider pretty good for a kit - especially one for less than $100. Yet, it is a "paint grade kit" not pretty enough for a clear finish unless you want a grungy look.
I have a HB SG style kit that would rank similar, also an HB Tele kit that is probably an 8.5 out of 10.
StewMac has guitar kits and I've heard very good things about them, but I have not built one of their kits - yet.
A couple years back (?) I had a kit from Solo, it was pretty good, maybe a 7 or 8 out of 10. Also had a Bulldog kit which was pretty good ±8 out of 10. An ebay or Amazon "no brand" kit (sorry, I don't recall where it came from) which was not worth putting together - ended up selling it in the box.
The next thing to consider is, what kind of finish are you expecting? if yoiu are going for a paint grade finish, there is a lot of sin that can be covered. If you hope for a book matched high figured top... cheap kits seem to have some difficultly coming through. Often there will be glue at the veneer book match or poor binding areas. All of which can possibly be resolved, but you won't know until you get the kit and start working on it.
Now, the problem I tend to see, is the overall quality control of kits. I may get a good one, the next guy may get an average or poor kit.
I want to believe that a retailer such as StewMac, may have a slightly better QC situation, and also the customer support to correct a potential issue. That said, StewMac kits may also cost a little more than some other comparable kits.
Sorry I can't give you a definitive answer, perhaps others will chime in.
Thanks for the question, it is a good one, and I wish I had a perfect answer for you.
@@theNextProject many thanks for the excellent answer! your videos are greatly appreciated
well-made
@Doug H, thank you very much. Hope you are enjoying the series.
Stay tuned, more random mods coming on this kit.
I have the HB DIY CST24 kit. I believe it was discontinued. The kit isn’t the same bridge or electronics as the the HB CST24. It’s fixable but requires a ton of work beyond assembly to make playable.
@Grant Mecozzi, thanks for sharing your experience. Sorry it wasn't a good one. I wasn't aware HB had a CST kit, may be discontinued as you mentioned.
Kit guitar quality seems to vary greatly, more so than the factory finished models. I've had a couple other brand kits in the past that were art/decoration quality only.
Thanks for watching, take care!
Edit -
I looked into that kit, it does appear that people were having problems. The mfg likely pulled the plug. Dang, a nice looking guitar otherwise!
Thanks for the video. Are the neck and body oiled/treated in any way? If you were to paint/lacquer what would you recommend as a process?
haz zah, good questions!
The neck has a satin finish on it, and does not appear to be oil. It is very possibly a thin urethane of some sort.
The body has a sealer applied, but it does not result in a "paint ready" base finish. The sealer is not a true grain filler, and some additional grain filling and or sealing will be required. I expect that each kit will have similar initial prep by the factory, but each will need unique finish prep work.
As for what finishes to use, that is highly subjective, and there are a lot of variables.
What process would I recommend? The answer may vary a bit depending on what outcome I'm after.
To make it smooth and "nice" the body will need some grain/pour filling, a filler/sealer and great attention to sanding before being top-coated.
I use spray guns for just about everything, rarely use rattle cans, but if you don't have a "spray booth" or air powered spray equipment, then some areosol sprays from places like StewMac or Guitar Reranch are good options. If you prefer something closer to home, and are flexible on color choices, you can visit a local Lowes/HD. The paints they have aren't going to yield a factory guitar finish, but maybe that isn't what you are after. Be sure to follow the application recommendations, time between coats, temperature, humidity..., and don't put on too much paint per coat, etc.
There is a fellow "Brad Angove" who does a lot of guitar painting with rattle cans. He has a UA-cam channel you may want to check out.
I personally use various air powered spray equipment, and typically use automotive urethane finishes. I honestly haven't sprayed any lacquer in a couple decades and that was on cars. I wish I could help you more, but StewMac, ReRanch, or Brad's channel may be better sourcs of painting info.
I'll be showing my paint process on this mod project, but that will be a bit down the road. Hope you check back for the mod process, good luck if you're building or painting.
Take care!
@@theNextProject Thanks for the comprehensive answer. I really cannot see how you can fail at those prices and quality. Nothing is throw away, just will be of varying levels of finish.
Great video, what app do you use for intonation?
Jim Masino, Thanks!
As soon as you asked the question, my mind went blank. I could picture it on the phone, but could think of the name. It's an (Android) strobe tuner called..... well, it's called "Strobe Tuner v1.4".
I've had it on the phone I use for tuning/intonation for a couple of years, so there is likely an updated version available.
I have fuzzy high e, idek if the truss rod is working and i’m afraid of breaking the neck
Esteban, thanks for watching.
Sorry to hear you have a fuzzy (buzzy?) high e string.
If you have the truss rod allen tool, you can easily test the truss rod.
First take a good straight edge ruler and lay it along the tops of the frets. look closely for any change in the gap between the top of the frets and the straight edge. There may be more gap from the 7th to 13th frets than at the 1st and 20th frets.
use the allen wrench to turn the truss rod nut clockwise 1/8 to 1/4 turn, and check the gap between the frets and straight edge. If needed you can either turn a little more in that direction, or if you need to turn the allen wrench counter-clockwise by the same amounts. Keep checking the gap between the top of the frets and the straight edge.
These small adjustments will let you know if your truss rod is working - it probably is.
Depending on where the high e is fuzzy/buzzy, it could be the truss rod adjustment, or a high fret somewhere, or the nut may need some attention, or... the bridge needs adjustment... or a little of everything.
Make small adjustments, keep track of what you do and the result you get.
Sorry I can't really help more.
Good luck with your project!
Nice vid 👍, who was the band when you were running the wires through the cavity up to the pick up selector, it was kinda punk sounding.
Thanks! I had to go back and give it a listen...
That piece is from the UA-cam audio library, it's called Pomade by Silent Partner.
@@theNextProject nice, i didn't know there was a pool of music you could pull from 🤔
Yep, when you post a video, you'll have access to the UA-cam "Audio Library". All the audio I've used up to this point is from this source. There are other audio sources outside of UA-cam, but for content creators, i just haven't spent the time nor money to do much research on those options.
Thanks for the great content. Sub'd.
Bassman, that is for watching and glad you're liking the show.
Thanks for joining the crew.
Be safe and take care!
did you straighten the neck before doing the frets? or even make sure the truss rod works?
@Mikey Dep,
Yep, I check the fingerboard, the frets, the trussrod... Hard to show everything without suddenly having a 5 hour video. I tried to show only the things that were really of issue, and that may vary from kit to kit... Ya never know.
Hope you enjoyed the vid.
I just purchased this kit from Amaz0n. It's almost identical, mine is the Harley Benton, LP with flame top veneer. I'm exited to dig into it. Question, does your guitar body have a very mild lacquer-like coating on it? Mine did, and I'm not sure how to remove it before I start the staining process.
@Average Joe,
That's pretty cool, I was not aware the HB kits were on Amazon, nor that there is a flame maple veneer kit option of the HB.
To answer your Q about the coating, yes there was a grain sealer of some sort on the body, it wasn't a final coat, but rather a quick application and rather thick. It was likely to simply tame the grain and make the body slightly more "stable" and workable. My kit is/was a "paint grade" kit, not really meant for stain. There are too many pieces of lumber used for the back and top of the body to be a pretty stained guitar.
As for how to prep the "coated" body to receive stain. That is a task that many kit builders have to deal with. Since no one knows if it is a sealer, nor a grain filler, it is hard to give you an accurate answer. Some sealers are designed to be "pre-stain" coatings, they help limit the end grain of the wood from drinking in too much stain and turning darker than the long grain. Hope that make sense.
I would attempt gently sand a very small test area (using very fine sandpaper), just to remove any raised grain. Then do a stain test on that area.
When it comes time to do any sanding on the figured top of the guitar, be very careful as most veneers are VERY thin. It is easy to sand through them.
Not knowing what wood is used on the back of your kit, you may need grain filler to reduce the deep grain divots. You will have to be the judge of that.
Glad you got a kit, and good luck to you. If it doesn't turn out the way you want, you can always start again, or cut it up like I'm doing.
Remember - Have fun and enjoy the project!
Tried to put it together today but issues with the wiring. I tried 6 different combos but I could only get the neck to work. No middle or bridge positions worked.
The pickups work 10.2 and 10.4 oHm, Starting to think the 3-way selector is busted.
Can you tell me if the wire from the input goes to the center red on the 3-way switch please? That would eliminate some :)
Only other issue is that the wraparound post were a bit off centre.
Nice video
Killain, thanks for watching!
Sorry to hear you're having some trouble with the wiring, but I completely understand. I don't know, be it expect the newer kits (yours) may have all the wiring the same color....
Did you attempt to get the wiring figured out on the table first, or is everything in the guitar?
Either way, start out with 2 leads from the switch, then attach a lead from the output and one of the other "pot" leads.
See if you have anything working in any switch position. If not, try swapping those 2 connections. If nothing works yet, move one of the two to the unused connector and try again.
I'll try to take a look at the video on a bigger screen tonight, as I don't recall if the center goes to the output.
If I just say "yes", I will likely be wrong.
Hang tight, I'll try to get back to you later. Otherwise, have fun expirementing. It is frustrating with all the wires being colored the same.
Talk soon!
Just thought to mention, and don't recall if I said this in the video...
Turn all pots to the middle-ish of their range.
This should help eliminate a chance of a pot being turned to the off setting. That could cause irritation and mis-diagnisis.
Killain, I'm sorry but I can't see the breakout of wiring in the video well enough to offer any tips.
I also looked for the original wiring, thought I may still have it, but it's all gone.
Take a break from it, then try again, maybe you are just missing the magical combination.
Sorry I can help more.
Take care!
@@theNextProject Hiya, thanks a lot for the very thorough explanation, much appreciated. I did try what you said and to no avail, I do think that it is the switch.
But to be honest, the wiring would have stayed the same for probably a month and then I would have rewired it anyway.
I just have to do it a bit sooner now haha.
I think the HB wiring set for a LP will do, 30 euros. Gotta say nice channel, watched a feqw of your other vids and subbed.
Have a good one mate!
Besides the wonderful video i want to mention:
Some years ago HarleyBenton made some great and unique guitars and kits with their own design. Sadly it's almost copies these days.
Elondro, I didn't know HB made original designs in the past. I can see why most are copies now, as the consumer wants an LP, SG, Strat or tele... If something isn't selling, it's gone, even if it is good.
Thanks for watching, take care!
Problems I am having with mine are the neck pickup cavity was just a little to close to the neck. The mounting holes for the PU ring would not line up so I cut the part of the ring that would fit against the neck, and removed that small piece. Now I find that the holes for the two pieces that are inserted into the body to hold the saddle are not drilled deep enough to allow them to seat. I have to find a way of removing them without damaging the wood and then find a drill that is flat and drill them a little deeper. And then there are all of the little screws that come with the kit. Different sizes and none are marked as to where they go. The beginner kit builder has to guess at which screw is used where.
Spokes28, sorry to hear your kit isn't going together very well.
I agree there are a lot of little screws and that can be confusing.
As for the bridge insert holes.
The inserts may have a slight flange at the top edge, the bottom of that flange should press down to the top of the body. However, since the body had a contour, only a small area of the flange will touch the top of the body and not the whole flange surface. If you want to pull the inserts out and do more drilling. You can use the threaded post to help remove the insert.
Depending on how tight the inserts are, sometimes they may pull out rather easy. When they don't, I may use a pair of needle nose pliers to fit around the head of the post, protect the body and use the pliers to pry up on the post, pulling the inset out. You may need a thin shim to use for leverage while prying. A claw hammer may be used (depending), using the claw to gently pull up on the bridge post which is threaded into the insert.
There are a few other options to remove the posts, but I'd really need to know how tight the inserts are stuck in the body. Here is one more idea, and it has some risks. The bridge posts are 10mm thread ( I don't recall the thread pitch) a long bolt of this thread can be screwed into the insert, once it bottoms out in the drilled holes, additional turns will begin to force the insert out. The risk with this practice is that the bolt will also be forced deeper into the body, and could potentially damage the body. These LP style bodies typically have enough thickness that no damage will occur, but I wanted to let you know of the potential. SG bodies are much thinner and this practice could cause noticeable harm.
Another option is to use a small combination wrench, run the treaded post through the box end of the wrench, then tread the post into the insert. The wrench(es) can be used as handled to pull the insert out. A flat strap of iron with a hole in it works as well the post goes through the hole, the flat stra iron becomes a handle... Sorry if this is all very vague.
There are a few other ways to remove the inserts, but not easily explained here.
Again, I sorry you're having some issues with your kit. Sadly it is a gamble with nearly any kit, some are great, some good, some have random issues.
Good luck and please keep me posted as to what you find.
Take care!
@@theNextProject thank you. I was able to remove the inserts. It looks like the hole needs to be 1/16” deeper. I see two choices since I don’t have a lot of equipment. File the end off a drill bit to make it flat and drill the hole or file the end of the insert to make it shorter. Which one would you suggest? Or would you suggest something different? Thank you again for your help.
How deep are the insert holes in your kit guitar body?
The insert holes probably need to be no more than 7/8" deep if I recall.
The insert should be roughly 3/4" tall to the bottom of the flange on the insert.
If you have the correct size bit, you shouldn't need to grind the end of of it. Just gently deepen the hole. Wild guess, it's probably an 11mm insert hole (verify your insert dimensions)... i don't have metric bits, so ± 27/64" (? I think. don't take my word, verify, verify, verify).
Do a test with the drill bit you plan to use on a scrap piece of wood, then see if the insert fits, before going after the guitar body.
If you want to "sink" the flange into the body, you'll have to find a bit big enough for the width of the flange. I think the flange on my kit inserts were a hair over 1/2" diameter.
Sorry if I'm not completely understanding.
Let me know, thanks!
So after fret leveling, it can play fine? Nothing wrong with the neck or finger board?
@ValueOfNothing, great question!
This kit had a good neck from the factory.
The fret ends were dangerously sharp, and you mentioned the leveling I did. It was playable out of the box, but far better with the frets being taken care of. Other than that, it was pretty good.
Take care!
may i please know what is the radius of the fret?
boy t, thanks for watching!
I don't recall if the kit had a 12", or 14" fingerboard radius from the factory.
I believe re-sanded it to a 12"r and then installed new frets.
The factory frets were fine, other than needed cleaning, dressing and fret end work. But I just pulled then a change put in a larger profile fret anyway.
Take care!
I perfer my old file but have a v style stew mac fret tool. It leaves a pyramid for sure.
Para, I may have a similar StewMac file too. Right now I'm mainly using one of their Z-files, but occasionally break out a half-round file-file. It eats frets, so I have to use it carefully.
Is it a clean raw wood on the body and neck, or it's varnished?
Thanks for watching!
The neck had a thin sealer coat on the neck. Easy enough to sand away.
You could also leave it, play it, let it wear away.
The body had a heavier sealer (polyester maybe?), took some sanding.
It would not take stain, but can be sanded to prep for paint. Probably require primer/fillers to get a glassy smooth finish.
Be safe, take care!
@@theNextProject Thank you!
Nice video. While i generally dig the modding you mentioned, i wonder why to buy a complete set first when you then swap out almost every part. Better spend money on a decent body and neck and buy all the stuff you really want.
@Harry Hirsch, yep that would be a great approach, if I had a solid plan and all my guinea pig testing ironed out beforehand.
The main reason I choose to use an inexpensive kit, was to limit my loss if something would go terribly wrong, and there have been hiccups along the way for sure.
It's been a fun project, I've tried different ways of skinning a cat, some things work, some need adjustment, some are just bad ideas. Starting with a kit has also given me a "repair" point of view moreso than a scratch build would. I hadn't really considered that at first, but that's kinda how the process has gone. A better neck and body would likely start at $600, there are cheaper options, but then I'd be dealing with similar issues. And honestly, this kit was reasonably well produced, a lot of cheap parts, but the construction was sound.
The kit saved me the time of carving a top and making a neck, both rather time consuming, and I've been really short on time during this entire project.
Thanks for watching the vid, hope you enjoyed it and also the mod series too. I've got a couple new projects kicking off in the near future...
Take care!
nice like❤
Benny2020, Thanks - Glad you enjoyed it
Are the pickups that are in it was potted?
Caleb Olson, great question and, Yes they are wax potted.
I don't know who actually makes these pickups for Harley Benton, but they did get a dunk in the wax. They don't seem like bad pickups, but everyone will have different opinions on such things.
Let's just say, they work well enough to use right out of the box, and are likely not quite good enough to leave in the guitar forever.
Since this is a very affordable kit, we shouldn't expect too much, considering you can buy a single humbucker that costs more than this entire kit, shipped around the world.
That's kinda crazy.
I hope you are enjoying the videos.
Thank you sir. Your videos are awesome
Im really interested in this kit im subsribing now. I really want to get the kit but i want the set in neck thanks man.
Thanks for the sub!
I see your other comments too... I'm still working on it!
@@theNextProject patiently waiting bro.🤗
I've never built a guitar only play them....however I'm very interested in trying this, but I really want as high quality as possible....do you have a favorite DIY kit guitar you recommend?
The HB kits are "good" but I wouldn't say the are high quality. Some are better than others, and it may be blind luck getting a perfect one. As for other kits, the same may apply, I've run across one great kit followed by another average kit. Each person will also rate there experience differently.
Sorry, this isn't really the answer you are looking for, but I don't want to tell you to only get a Brand X, or Brand Y kit.
I would suggest you find some forums, read everything you can about as many different makers as possible. You may get to the point were you decide to spend you time playing rather than sanding... If you do get a kit, just have fun with it. If it doesn't play great, modify it, or turn it into art.
Good luck to you!
StewMac is the luthier supplier of choice who also sells kits, but they are more expensive a $200 to start for a single cutaway like this one. And I would look at replace any electronics part that aren't name brand like CTS, Switchcraft, or Oak Grigsby. These parts are OEM's for the $1000 plus guitars. StewMac also sells color kits too or you can go to an auto supply store and look at touch up paint colors. All can be ordered in spray aeresols or use a Preval sprayer with thinned varnish to spray small coats before the final clear coat.
Came here and found a guy like me. A guy who likes cars and guitars!
Hey Timothy! You got me, I do like'm both.
I really wish I had a garage big enough for "car" work, but at this time I need to stick with smaller manageable projects like guitars.
Thanks for stoppin' by, take care!
7m00s Me again, with my Gear4Music DC kit. Doing exactly as you say, and testing my wiring on the bench (actually my kitchen table) before installing. In this kit, the main part of the wiring loom (volume pots, tone pots, selector switch) come pre-soldered together. (Although the PDF instructions are so crap and out of date it tells you how to do this step.) All that remains is to solder the pick up wires to their respective vol pots: the inner (insulated) hot wire to center leg of pot, the outer (uninsulated) earth wire to the back of the pot. Does this sound feasible to you? I can get one (bridge) pick up to click when I tap it with selector switch in down position, but it doesn't make any sound in center position (huh?). The other p/up does not click in any switch position (all controls are fully clockwise). Aaagh, frustrating, I don't even have a multimeter or continuity tester. My suspicion is the loom was maybe wired incorrectly at factory. Can you point me in a right direction please? Thx.
Photos drive.google.com/folderview?id=1AIkMZihIHKUba2-pkUVRHF7lVDCPFJNI Assembly instructions PDF included
@d roses, cool kit, sorry you're having some issues with the wiring.
From what you mention, I wonder if the pickup that is not working is shorting/grounding out, and when the switch is set to the middle position (both pups on), the one pup that may be grounding out, shorts out both pups.
This is just a guess and I don't know if this is the cause.
The fine strands of shielding ground wire are easy to have a stray strand short things out.
Hope that make sense.
I'll take a closer look at the photo tonight when I get home.
It will all come together and be a great kit.
Take care, talk soon!
@@theNextProject Update: nope, no stray strands. But I did confirm the second pickup is actually working by desoldering and touching its wires to tip and sleeve of the jack plug going into the amp, and it clicked when tapped. Resoldered it to pot, but same as before. So now I suspect either (1) the selector switch is faulty and/or (2) the wiring loom has been put together wrongly. If the latter, that is where my knowledge of electric guitars ends. So I will ask if G4M can send me a replacement loom. Will try to buy a cheap multimeter today now shops are open again.
There's a new photo in this folder called 'Finished' which just means I got cheesed off with trying to get the varnishing right (hence no closeups and thus avoid your guffaws of laughter), and decided to just put the whole thing together. I can plug it in and play it, but still only one p/up produces sound (even though I know both are functional). Still need to lower the action a bit, but it's playable.
@d roeses
Happy New Year!
The guitar looks really good. Nice collection of photos.
Sorry the pickup issue is still - an issue.
You'll get it figured out, or they'll get you a new loom.
Maybe the switch or a pot are bad like you mentioned
Great looking project, well done!
Take care!
Wow, that's a lot of work. I thought these kits were (almost) ready to go. It's put me off slighly wanting to get a DC one. Also, I don't have tools and equipment and workshop (or beard) like you - just a kitchen table, couple of screwdrivers and pliers... I'm not a complete nincompoop around guitars (30+ yrs) but have nowhere near enough experience and knowlege to sort out any probs that occur like that saddle. In my case, it might be the 'next project' to just make expensive firewood.
@d roses, I hear ya, the kit I got wasn't perfect but for the price wasn't bad either.
It could have been put together and "used", but it wouldn't have been right. I'll be starting a telecaster style kit soon. In general, it is a simpler assembly, and hopefully with easier, or not fixes required.
Thanks for watching, take care!
@@theNextProject Thanks for the reply. (I'm working on the beard...) Well, I think I'll go for the DC kit in Jan when finances allow. My plan is: 1) To assemble it. Test the electrics on kitchen table - good tip of yours - beforehand. If anything is wrong or missing, inform Thomann and get it sorted. 2) Disassemble it. (Take out bridge posts too, or just mask them??) Would like to stain and varnish the body like in the March 2020 vid by GCH Guitar Academy. One question: is it possible to add a stain or dye or varnish to the body WITHOUT removing the factory sealant? (Don't really want a load of wood/chemical dust in my eating area.) Maybe I will also add a self-designed simple logo or first name or initials to front of headstock (with a Sharpie/marker pen??) and put on a couple of coats of clear varnish. Thx in advance.
@@droses1600 the factory sealer will likely cause problems for stain and dye application. The sealer on my HB kits isn't thick, but just enough to "seal" the wood fibers, so whatever is applied will sit in top. the body will likely need to be sanded to knock down loose fibers and to smooth out any imperfections, this may lead to sand-through of some sealer as well. Just go slow, inspect the progress a long the way, you can always sand it all off, maybe find a nice day and sit outside, no dust in you food that way. Haha
Good luck with your project, and have fun with it. Take care!
@@theNextProject Great advice. No garden here (middle of city and deep in snowy winter). Ah well, I'll figure something out. Here's to hundreds more excellent and inspiring Next Project vids from you...
@@droses1600 many thanks!
Hello. Thanks for this grenat video. 🤘. I've the same kit. I made the guitar but there's no sound. I don't know about the problem😰. Can you help me please?
@David Blard, so sorry to hear you have no sound.
Sorry to ask all these questions.. here we go.
Did you assemble the wiring outside the guitar and test before putting the wiring in the guitar?
If so, did things work "on the bench"?
Is there NO sounds at all, or muted sound, sound from one pickup...?
Any "scratching" sound from either the Vols or tone controls, or "pop" when changing the selector position?
Do all wire connections appear to be completely pushed together? Do all solder joint appear to be..."soldered"?
Can you see a stray strand of wire at the output jack which may be grounding out, or possibly a bad solder joint at that area...
(this could also be an issue at the vol and tone pots).
Sorry for the random questions, and it could be any or a mixture of little things.
If you can't find the cause easily, it may be worth the time to remove the wiring and wire it on the table/bench. It will be easier to see if there is a problem. You could also wire a jumper form each pickup directly to a output jack and test them individually. Or, if you have a multi-meter, you can test various parts of the circuit in, or out of the guitar.
Really sorry your having some trouble, but look at it as a learning challenge that you can resolve and overcome.
Let us know what you find.
Good luck!
I haven't gear for testing. There was no sounds or muted sounds from pick-up. Last night, my bridge pick-up seems to work after i've "touched" some cables. Thanks for your anwers 🙏
@@eurz Is it working now? You could always contact Thomann?
@@killainmaccallan4700 No, i haven’t contact them. I will custom it with new humbuckers and cables
Just a little tip here. Run a strip of masking tape all the way down both sides of the side of the neck BEFORE you mask the frets. That way, all the fret masking tape will come off in one go instead of having to remove each piece one at a time. Just something I use that can save a bunch of time. 😁
akc5150, Great tip, thanks!
You'll probably witness other similar "missed" steps as this project unfolds.
Lights - on, Audio - on, Cameras - on, now what was I going to do?
...OH NO!, a camera wasn't on after all... (eye twitch)
Thanks again!
Bro! I wish you could make me a guitar. I'm sure i couldn't afford it but i will dream. I want a Telecaster but i am beginning to hate Fender because their name alone is not worth 400 to me. I was thinking about a kit but you make stuff way better than i could.
Hey Para, good to hear from you again.
I have a Harley Benton Tele that needs some re-mod work done. I hope to have a vid or two on it before the end of the year. Kit builds are fun, some are pretty good, some pretty bad. I just always try to have fun with kits and I'm sure you'd do some cool stuff, make it your own.
I wonder about Fender and Gibson, since I'm not a business professional, I have to assume someone at the top of those companies has things under control. But, from where I sit, it doesn't always look that way. They sure do charge a lot of $$ for their brand.
Whatcha gonna do?
Hope all is well, take care!
@@theNextProject , Fender juat laid off an entire shift in the past few months. The California Corona one. Plus they had a million cancelation orders last year.
@@theNextProject , all is well with my soul. That's what counts for me. Hope you're well also.
Is there room for 90's in this?
The kit arrived pre-routed for humbuckers.
My mod project that follows this assembly video, I plug the factory holes and make it ready for Filtertrons, but I had considered P90s.
Take care!
So the modification project vid is going to totally replace everything
@Charlie Male, SHHHHH! not so loud!
Well, yes I guess that is largely accurate. Why stop when I should and all.
Hope you enjoy the series, I'm riveted as I don't really know what will happen next.
@@theNextProject I actually found it great to watch I've now watched a few more very good sir
@@charliemale3674 , thanks!
Don't we get to hear what it sounds like?
That would have been a good idea, but I'm rather poor at playing guitar. I few chords and selector positions would have been nice... But I basically put it together, then took it apart. I should have strummed a few little sound samples... The next kit I will do so.
Thanks!
Why are just about all Les Paul style kits are bolt on necks......
Hector, thanks for watching.
The bolt on question, is a good one.
There are some set neck LP kits out there, but the cost is typically a bit higher than a bolt-on version.
My guess is that it is cheaper for the factory to produce a bolt-on kit, than it would be to make a set neck version. - Just a guess.
There may be some link to other products being made, what the mfg is tooled to produce. Maybe some customer satisfaction concerns, as glue in necks have more potential risk in assembly. Could be any number of reason s I guess.
Then there is the question of the end users skill level, available tools and materials. Not everyone has clamps and glue, but most people have a screwdriver and pair of pliers.
Later in this series, I turn this bolt-on kit into a set-neck guitar.
It was pretty easy, and bolting the kit together first will give you a good idea if everything fits properly.
Good luck with any project you have.
Be safe, take care!
the Next Project Thanks for your reply.
Even if plastic really works well, it isn't really a sustainable way of doing it.
You're probably hearing more and more people about sustainability lately, and that's because more and more people start to get a grasp of the state of our planet. As a musician you probably know what 'sustain' is. If we want to sustain our life, then we need to do things in a sustainable manner. The problems have been growing over the years, but in the past few years we were clearly able to see direct results of humanity's unsustainable lifestyle. These effects will only get worse if we don't do something. One person can't solve these problems, and one person can't create these problems either. We rely on nature and on our planet for food, water, and a habitable climate. It doesn't matter if you love nature or not, we need it for our own survival. Therefore it is important for us to protect it. All of the little things we do contribute a bit to the problem. (Yes, even writing this comment is technically making it worse due to the energy it costs and the storage it requires). But we don't have to give up much luxury. We just have to choose wisely and choose for the more sustainable options. Sometimes they're better, sometimes they're not as good, but if it gets the job done then it's not much of a problem, right?
We don't have to stop with everything we're doing. If we all start living just a 1% more sustainable lifestyle then it'll have a pretty big impact. We need to do it together, and every little bit helps. Just being aware of the problem and sometimes choosing a more sustainable option already helps more than you'd think.
That said, this video was really good. You explained everything clearly and the video and audio quality is great. Thank you very much for sharing!
@Animiles, sorry you lost me with your first sentence, regarding plastic.
I understand you paragraph about sustainability, and sustain.
I don't recall if I commented about either of those in the Assembly video, but your comment touches on the concern for minimal impact.
-- I'm no musician, and I can prove it! --
Glad you liked the video in general, and thanks for the note on video and audio quality. I do wonder what others are seeing and hearing, as my computer things look one way, my TV things look another, my eyes tend to blur everything, and I never know what the uploaded audio will result in.
Take care!
skinny thin weak alloy crappy frets
Hey John Pike, that's the first I've heard these frets called that.
I've called them a few things myself, but not "skinny thin" nor "weak". I agree they are not likely the best quality, but this entire guitar cost less than $100. I'm not going to make fun of the quality of the fret material, only they way they were, or weren't, finished. They did slice my fingers initially.
I have a few other HB guitars, one has been a daily player (not that I'm a guitarist), but the frets are holding up very well after the initial level, crown and polish I gave them, going on 4 years now.
That being said, I have another HB that I replaced all the frets with some Jescar wire. It is a harder alloy, and the fret wire alone cost 1/4 of this entire kit. Funny how quality can cost more at times.
I hope you are enjoying the videos, which are just an assembly of "what if I do this" type thinking. Well, there isn't all that much thought mixed in at times.
@@theNextProject right on bro and I get that.
here is my pet pev.
In my understanding, the neck and the fret board amount to just about 97% of a guitar worth Upgrading.
I got the ST 20. strat cheapest and I did so because I watch literally hundreds of you tube channel demonstrations, all of which agreed that This Guitar Plays Well?.
In my own thinking, I wanted to gut the electronic top to bottom, swap out the machine heads (which I later discovered you just can't drop in Fender product?) change the nut and bridge etc.
I took a peak at the truss rod screw and I thought oh dear, junk?
I try to get the over all action to a respectable height, look down the neck to see the relief and reduce it a little (which will further lower the action a couple thou)
Just a half turn bro. from lightly snug to a half turn.
I looked again and the top five frets showed relief while the remainder, didnt budge? eewww.
Don't get me wrong, I realize this is a very inexpensive guitar.
But in my view, not worth even changing the nut.
I had 2 complete fret jobs done on a Les Paul Custom I once owned, that was very expensive!
thanks for repliying
@John Pike, well said. The neck and frets are like the barrel of a rifle, if that ain't right, everything suffers.
I've heard some great praises for the HB line, and while I liked this kit flaws and all, I haven't received a turn-key Harley Benton guitar.
Yes, they could be played, but none of them were close to set-up. Every one needed the frets to be cleaned at a minimum, and typically leveled/crowned/polished was the real answer. New strings were always a must, as they have all had bad strings. So I use the original strings for set-up, then swap out for good strings and tweak the set-up if necessary.
Then I sit back and realize, these HB guitars look good and are typically crazy cheap (inexpensive). I really buy them to take them apart and modify, not so much to plug-n-play. But that's just me, I'm a bit odd and can't leave things alone.
I expect there are some really good quality HB's that get delivered, I haven't received any of those and figure it is hit-or-miss with what is delivered. But I've taken what I get and made each one play well. I like the challenge.
Hope you got your ST-20 figured out.
@@theNextProject great reply; I did, and I intonated the open string to the 1st fret too. as u will find, the fresh out of the box Nut configuration is Roughed in, even a new LP? (been there done that)
For example an open E can be tuned to pitch.
But when we fret the open E at the 1st fret to achieve an F...often times we get an F+.
Maybe Not an F# but F+
it's; file, check, file, check, file, check time?
But it's like cocaine; you can't get it back...
and fretting it with a what would be reasonable pressure and certainly not Standing on it??
An "F Bar Cord" with playing application pressure?
Then you check the other ones?
It's like the tune from The Wizard of Oz; clip clip here, clip clip there and a couple of la dee dahhhhsss.
The Original Harley Benton Strings??? (made from Galvanized Garbage Can Lids)
The Frets; made from someone's old Slinky Toy.
You may not believe me, but It can produce perfect pitch right up to where it attaches. on every string.
My next complaint is / are, the Extra Low Profile mini frets.
When attempting to "Do a Bend" I get So Much finger tip on the fret board and it drags my speed.
A Fatty Fret will keep most of my finger tip Up, Off, and Away from the wood.
Savvy?
I want to push as to glide the string across the fret, not have half my finger wearing out the wood.
This also creates fatigue.
Envision; Hot knife through soft butter, then cold knife through cold butter.
Effortless, comes to mind.
I've watched these many many you tube where these clowns say; yeah man, I would gig this guitar!
In a Pigs eye bro; your hands and lower arm would be in a fking coma half way into the show!
Here's the deal; I bought one and It's Over!
You and I are so much alike, you can't; "Leave It Alone" and I'm the same.
But I do see the writing on the wall with this Brand and it's nope!
I wrote an oped, to another you tube HB fan???
It began with; "if a tree falls down in the forest and you are on the other side of the world, does it make a noise".
We know that ALL high quality guitars; Fender/Gibson etc, are made from SELECT WOODS, that are inspected AND aged, AND dried properly AND cured.
Some even roasted, (which is just another way to speed up the drying and curing process, don't be fooled.
But the One thing about HB guitars made in shit hole nations is; You CAN Hear the tree they made your guitar from, Fall, the day before...
AND, in a year or so...u will be playing a Pretzel.
What a shit kit that is. You spend $200 and end up with a $150 guitar.
@Tim Hallas, well it's a cheap guitar kit... The good news is, it doesn't cost $200, but rather $90. So if you feel it's worth $150 completed, I guess it's worth messing with.
Even if you don't care for the kit.. I hope you are enjoying the vids. Take care
@@theNextProject I don't know why I said anything.. your getting paid to do this...right? That's why you didn't waste any time or money putting any finish on it,, right? I think this is funny, that the Chinese can get us to assemble our own junk guitars. The joke's on all of us.
@Tim Hallas, I'm glad you left a msg, that's what this format is for.
LOL, That's funny - Who would be paying me ( to cut apart their product? )
The reason I didn't put a finish on it.. is because this kit is the base for major expirement/modification project. I basically cut it up, fill holes, shave things here and there... Not the same guitar, nor kit when I finish.
I'm burning a bunch of time and money with the "experiment".
Take care.
@Tim Hallas. I'm not sure where this kit is made, China, Vietnam,...somewhere, IDK.
The distributor is a German based company, so maybe they are the one you should be upset with. China (or wherever) just filled an order, as any mfg would do.
Shame on me for buying it, assembling it, enjoying the process, making a video, thinking anyone might be interested or laugh at my mishaps...
Anyway, it is a cheap guitar kit, if you don't like them, don't buy them. I won't be doing this to a $1000 Gib, nor Fend. I have cut up Squires and such however. I just enjoy the process.
@@theNextProject What you don't know, or just don't care about is that every one of these kits or fully assembled guitars that come off a boat, means one less American made guitar will be bought or played by an American. It means less work for American workers, and more American dollars leaving America.. Also it means that American workers have to work for lower wages, less hours, and are forced to buy more Chinese crap, because we no longer make it in America. You suggest that I complain to China, or Vietnam.... The only reason they send it is because you order it. None of this might matter to you... Maybe you have a nice steady job that pays well,, or maybe you are looking to make money off UA-cam by building this garbage.. Maybe you should think of someone else... maybe another American who makes $250 a week and can't afford a good guitar, because he has to compete with 500 million Chinese robots.