Transmission Bellhousing Bolts Removal GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec LS Engine vid 15
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
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ALL THE VIDEOS IN THIS SERIES
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Starter Removal & Unbolt Flexplate from Torque Converter GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec LS Engine vid 14 - • Starter Removal & Unbo...
Transmission Bellhousing Bolts Removal GM Chevy Tahoe Vortec LS Engine vid 15 - • Transmission Bellhousi...
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This 20+ video series comprises all the videos I took for myself to remember all the steps to do a complete tear down of a GM Chevy Tahoe 5.3 Vortec (LS type) engine. I don’t intend for this to be a “how to” video for others, as I am a complete novice myself. This is my journey and I recorded it for me. I include references to some of the most helpful videos that I watched along the way. If this, by chance, helps someone else, great!
Your video has enlightening my world in ways that I thought I was the only one out there. And just like you I had a swear fest with all the nuts and bolts that were there hanging out in millimeters. And like you said GM was having a good time. figuring out ways that it could be virtually impossible to break free these bolts. once again thank you for your video I feel human.
The first REAL, unstaged video about anything dealing with parts removal on a vehicle. Read through the comments and the swearing and it's all legit. Thank you for taking the time to help us out!
I know this is older video. But if ur still around, don't feel bad ! It took me 3 days, working on 3 Exhaust nuts, Flange to exhaust manifold! Hours stalled on them. Not even a Electric Impact driver, broke 3/8 swivel also. Went back to 1/2 inch drive, after those 3 days of spraying with rust buster, liquid wrench I went to a 18 inch long Breaker Bar finally got them off after me snd friend tried for 30 minutes more. They must have been Far Over Torqued !!!! Same vehicle, mine is 05 Tahoe 2wd. Thank for video good job
I'm getting ready to do it again!
glad i saw this vid. mad me laugh at all the same struggles im currently having. took me two days to remove one bolt from the exhaust manifold and i'm currently stuck on that same little ass nut on the bell housing. gotta embrace the suck
Thanks for the video, bro:)
I feel your pain, and mustered up my patience before I attempted this with success. My 02 Avalanche engine change has been running for the past 2 weeks:) I have a couple hints for those attempting bellhousing bolts on their truck:
Don't do this job when your patience is low. Humble yourself, regroup with a cup of coffee...and attack again! (Don't make a challenging job miserable and strip your bolts):(
Take the 10 minutes and remove the plastic fender skirts! If nothing else-it gives your another view to see what your are working on.
Take the 5 minutes to simply remove the front driveline. (mark which direction the u-joint goes).
Remove the intake manifold. The upper bolts are not bad. (the hardest part is orienting the location of the bolt heads). So take a photo of a 5.3L bellhousing at the junk yard.
The funny thing is the toughest parts to my engine removal were the ground bolt to the side of the engine and the oil pressure sender! Who would have thought? Lol Good luck brothers and sisters who struggle to keep their vehicles on the road.
I think I used a 13, 15 open end wrench, deep sockets, a wobly and a couple extensions.
Just like the video this comment has been super helpful thanks
I'm there. Ready to put it all back together and I'm stumped. At around 11:00 you're working on the 13mm nut for a bracket on the very top bolt of the bellhousing. It holds 2 tubes with buttons on the top(?). Does anybody have an idea what the hell these two tubes are? I'm assuming they don't plug into anything, but I don't want to put the manifold back on until I'm sure. Thanks to anyone who can shed some light. Great video. Absolutely nobody gets in there like you do.
I found in the past that by doing both liquid wrench and PB Blaser spray the day beforehand makes bolt removal less of a chore. But keep the torch handy just in case. There is always that one screw or bolt that can be a bear to remove.
When the engineers don't have the maintenance guys in mind this is what we have to deal with. Crazy bolts in tight location making a simple job a complicated one. I simply can't reach my with an extension plus elbow, even with the transmission dropped at an angle because the seam is in the way preventing the socket wrench to full hold the bolt.
Undervalued response! I think they do it on purpose so we'll go back to the manufacturer
I spent over an hour last night just trying to get that top driver side bolt back in. (The one that hold the wiring harness bracket.) Yes, those bastards used 13mm nuts on top of 15mm studs. They could have at least mentioned this info in the repair manual since they are soooo.. difficult to access.To get it out, I used a very long extension with a swivel attachment. I really like your video.
Doing a transmission repair, (4l60e) 2001 Silverado 1500 5.3L.
Exhaust y pipe bolts took days to end up cutting them off. Now I'm at 7 bolts trying to find 8th. Have transfer case out crossmember out and am about to light it up and walk away.
Cool video and thanks for sharing. Dont worry about the snarky comments. Most of it comes from people who DONT HAVE ANY VIDEOS so it doesnt matter. Keep posting!
Thanks 👍
Take the intake off and the top bellhousing bolts are right there
This is a good video showing resilience! But, honestly you can much easier access all of the hard bellhousing bolts from the top. With just the intake and exhaust manifolds removed, these bolts can be easily removed with a 13mm and 15mn wrench. A ratcheting wrench makes it even easier. Nice job tho.
Hey im doing the same job got her free but the hoist is low on fluid go figure theres always something
I feel your pain brother, lol. After these same probs my trans was stuck on the dowel pins. Def frustrating but thanks for the video.
I just went through the same thing and there was bolts on the fly wheel holding on to the transmission and torque converter
Good video. Thanks!
I f@$!ing lobe this video i found it helpfull and morally helpful I'm in the process of doing this in my mom and dad's parking lot I'm no mechanic but I definitely know my way around a wrench when you started cussing I felt way better about my situation because I started cussing at the same point you did
I removed the top trans bolt/studs (#7,8?) and brackets with the heads and intake still part of the engine. Transfercase was already removed and crossmember dropped for angle. Find someone with small hands and can see with their fingertips.
yeah - with the transfer case out of the way, it is much much easier to do from below.
I gave you a like just because the 30 min bolt lol i had same problem
thanks for watching!
Im on day three its 25f out as you said i dont know lol thanks your vid helped me alot
I was right were you were buddy with the same one on the passenger side so before I reinstalled my motor I did my 2 inch body lift which gave me all the room that GM didn’t give me
Just saved me so much time
Awesome!!!
That FUCKING y pipe .. lmao I hear you man !!
Get yourself a impact. And some extensions with universals.
Check!
I love this guy!
thanks, it's good to be loved.
The pros get a 4 foot extension from snapon 1/2 inch to 3/8 with impact swivel sockets and a nice impact. I'm pulling my motor as we speak and hating life, getting there though.
true. even with the extension, the transfer case on a 4x4 still makes it challenging.
@@TahoeSteve you pull the tcase first
Do you know where you can get all new studs and bolts for the bell housing
het atleast your 13mm didnt back the whole stud off sandwiching the brackets in-between
And I'll have 24 hours to get the trans out and back in, but I have an impact, a lift and 4+ techs I can ask for advice. Also doing the rear main and the right sides cv axle boots. I'll have 3 days after work.
You said an impact 4 techs and a lift, walk in the park
AWESOME
Thanks 🤗
For that stubbon bolt, I guess you could of used a gearWrench 15mmx16mm indexing long box wrench. no? Dunno if the head of the wrench would hit the bellhousing, pretty shallow. If not that wrench, then perhaps an s wrench or half moon?
Was there a ground wire connected to one of those bellhousing bolts? Just did a transmission swap and now my truck won't crank over or anything. Lights come on but no crank.
That would piss anybody off i hope you figure out what you did wrong
How many bell housing bolts were there of the stud with a nut ones and the regular bellhousing bolts?
Was wondering same thing misplaced my bolts and forgot ..
Is that a 4l60 or 65?
good short video heplped me
thanks for watching!
What size exactly are those transmission bolts that are on the side .
15mm if i recall
It's 15mm.
I had 2 13 mm on top holding 2 brackets 2005 GM is very mean
Im thinking of doing it myself or paying a shop $600 to swap my converter....hmmm.
I just did this, my only issue was frozen exhaust bolts which I ended up cutting off. The top bellhousing bolts were easy to take off by reaching in with a wrench from the bottom side and hitting the open end with a cheater bar with a hammer. They are only tightened to 37 Ft lbs. The other ones require alot of extensions and a universal. Now I have no converter shudder.
looks like you're working on one of those SUPER-EASY TO REMOVE 2wd ones.. .Try a 4wd, I dare you
Oh, you chicken shit. You removed the Intake and Heads!?!? Put them back on and try to get them bellhousing bolts.
Syrus54 I love comments like yours because it shows how stupid arrogant you really are. It is a four-wheel-drive.