Ski Boat (Ford) Distributor Replacment
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 вер 2019
- Replacing a worn out Ford Prestolite mechanical Distributor with a new Petronix Electronic Distributor.
Parts Used in this Video:
Distributor: skiboatpartsonline.com/inboar...
Ign. Coil: skiboatpartsonline.com/inboar...
Plug Wires: skiboatpartsonline.com/inboar... - Навчання та стиль
Ron big shout out on this how too video. After I had checked my timming and it was all over the place. Purchased the exact Pertronix you had installed. My Supra comp runs like new if not better. I was a bit hesitant on pulling my distributor, however you gave me the confidence to attempt. Thanks to you and Sara for helping solve my problem problem
Ron. You’re the best. Love your videos. Wish you were closer
What a great tutorial. One of the best ones I have ever seen.a man that loves his job.awesime mr.schell
Ron, you never cease to amaze me
Ron Thanks for Ski Nautique troubleshooting on Distributer- Crandon Home of FOOTSTOCK!
Ron Great video. Thanks for trouble shooting my Ski Nautique- Crandon Home of FOOTSTOCK!
Excellent video, very useful information as I do some troubleshooting to start off the season
Once again Ron, The King Mechanic of Inboard Ski Boats, you have help resolve the problems I have had with my 1988 MasterCraft ProStar 190 with a Ford 351w. Thank you so much for creating such good and detailed videos to help us keep our old ski boats running like they were made yesterday!
This video was great, referred back to it several times during my project. I would have e liked to have seen how you managed to cheat the distributor put by prying on it. I rented a slide hammer.
You're the best Ron
Learned a lot. Getting ready to put a 2cyl lester in a old cadorite 18 ft boat that has a 4.3l i/o.guess I'm bored or just hate seeing my lester not being used.
The "pilot" on the end of the prestolite distributor and OEM Motorcraft distributors in fuel injected Fords is to aid in installing the dist. in the engine by engaging the oil pump shaft first. Helps tech getting the rotor to line up on previous mark........
That can be tricky. I’ve had some drop right in,others I’d have to manually move the oil pump rod and try again. Many times. That’s probably a good idea.
Big fan if you Ron! Your vids helping me big time! Hope u got some videos of trouble shooting GT40 engine's
Thank you very much for another useful video. The whole video is great; however, watching you get the distributor in on the first try is my favorite scene. Well done Ron!
That was luck.
Nice video!
Excellent !
This a great video been learning from you so much and if I would of seen this I would of got this kit for ignition my distributor just went out but in went with a DUI distributor and they’re wires hopes it works good as well
Great video. I hope you picked up the wingnut that was sitting on the intake manifold! :)
I had to go back & watch the video to see what you were referring to, but yes, it is a habit of mine to place some fasteners in the intake manifold valleys, that was the wingnut that holds the spark arrester cover on top of the carb, when I put the arrester back on I know where my wing nut is.
Hey Ron, great video! I have a 1985 Ski Nautique 2001(351 Windsor). I was thinking about upgrading the alternator/distributor. Any advice about old ski boat upgrades that are the best way to spend hard earned dollars? Let me know!
85 malibu skier with the ford PCM 351. It has a prestolite distributor with the electronic conversion. popped that cap and found one spring really loose and the other snug. I ordered a Mallory breakerless distributor should be similar install except mine has to connect to resistor...
Would have liked to see the wires and plugs get replaced. Great video.
It's a juggling act to get the right content and video length right, we cut the plugs & wire installation from the video for time constraints, I figured if a guy will tackle the distributor swap they are capable of doing the plugs & wires. Google says 20-25 min videos are good, 30+ need to be broken up.
@@rontanis1024Agreed. When I took a quick look at the plugs it looked like they were hard to get to. Hopefully I was wrong, should be quick and easy if they are all accessible. Thanks for the videos Ron.
Excellent video, thank you. In addition, quality connectors counts. Why people use cheap connectors Scotch Locks and other wire connectors, and don't even use dielectric grease, is confusing. Oxidative degradation of the connectors' plated coating leads to all sorts of problems down the road (or waterway).
Incredibly informative and helpful video. Best online for this topic. I’m just having a little trouble getting the new distributor seated all the way. Any ideas? Thank you so much.
Ron, I really enjoyed this. I've got a 1989 Mastercraft Tristar 190 with a Ford 351. It still has points and condenser but as I'm already diagnosing a not starting issue (likely starter solenoid) I think it might be a good idea once I have it running again to go ahead and try to "future proof" the distributor from leaving me dead in the water like this past weekend. Based on my boat, I'm guessing the parts you've got listed above are exactly the ones I'd need. The links indicate "best value for the money" on the Petronix. But I see others talk about Mallory as well. If you're criterion is most reliable/trouble free rather than value for money, would you pick something other than Petronix? (A conversion kit for the existing distributor wouldn't wind up chucking the weights/springs as well or do those wind up staying and still leaving you susceptible even without the condenser/points?)
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Wanted to loss that stern drive and put in the shaft and propeller. I don't know much about the hight of the block at the end of the boat that the shaft goes thru. The one for the floor you say is 12%Just wondering if they are all this %.
Thanks for the great how-to. I would have liked to have seen how you adjusted timing at 28:00 mark of video.
Loosen the clamp bolt at the base of the distributor, then grab the whole dist. or cap & rotate the whole dist. while watching the timing marks, when correct, tighten the hold down bolt.
Great job Ron, Was looking for a trailor and found one and just so happened it came with a boat! A 79 Ski Nautique PCM Points Dist. with no ID tag, So i'm trying to decide how deep to go just to see if she will fire? Replaced plugs and sprayed lube. in the cylinders. Next is trying to find out why the previous owner pulled the wires off Ballast and volt regulator. Next i pulled the Dist. cap only to find tons of corrosion on to of the points. All the guy told me is he was thinking his problem was Ballast? So do you think it would a good idea to go ahead and replace dist. and get rid of the junk Ballast and regulator? probably need to replace starter since it was sitting under water, no one thought to remove the PLUG! Any advice would be Appreciated......Thanks Any advice on finding out engine details? someone removed the engine ID Tag.
This will be a reverse running engine, replacement distributors are hard to find & very $$$ we are working on a solution to this should have replacements by early spring. Starter, yes replace (again reverse rotation) Balllast resistor is needed with the original points system, not with electronic ignitions.
Great video. I intend to use this as my guide for the same process. I have a 1990 Ski Natique with a PCM 351. Two questions, 1) should I by pass the resistor feeding the coil? 2) Is my 351 PCM PLD-PR-R12PP a Windsor engine., to ensure I get the correct distributor/coil? Thanks again for a great video..
Our distributors come with a correct new coil, and does not use a ballast resister. 1990 Correct crafts should be standard rotation but I would double check, if the front pulleys are rotating clock-wise it is a standard rotation engine/distributor, if counter-clockwise it is a Reverse rotation engine/distributor.
what is the firing order on a 1976 to 1980 ford omc 302 and were does the the rotor line up. and should it be counter clockwise or clockwise what distributor do i need
classic upsell a whole new distributer for a broken spring
Ron, where the heck do you live? Any chance you live close to me, Nashville TN? I think I may have this problem or something close to this problem.
My boat, since my car mechanic got rid of the points and condenser, and put electronic ignition in; won’t run past 1700 rpm. Glad you made this video. I’m hoping you can look at my boat and fix my problem. Fingers crossed.
Sorry we are located in Louisiana just north of New Orleans aka "hurricane bullseye"
@@rontanis1024 thanks Ron. I’ll see if my springs are broke.
Also, to winterize do I just drain the two engine block, and the exhaust manifold.? 12O hp mercruiser made in 86. It’s in a 1987 Thunder Craft, 16.7 foot. I’ve have it water ready except for this problem. Thank you for what you do.
@@leesire Consult a mercruiser 12o hp source, very little of what I teach for V-8 inboard ski boat engines will apply to your engine.
@@rontanis1024 would a bigger prop have the same symptoms, won’t get past 1700 rpms?
Thanks
@@leesire It would have to be a really big prop to bog down a ski engine to that RPM. Write down all the specifics, make, mode,l year, engine, and what has been done & what the current symptoms are and email me directly at sales@skiboatpartsonline.com I do better with emails...RonT
Hi mate 351w in Australia have clips on cap?
91' 351 W PCM is missing around 2000 rpms. Has the Coil Pack on backside engine...any thoughts? Replace the coil pack with a distributor? Thank you
Know where can find a how to video removing Coil Pack off rear engine and convert to the Distributor front of engine....
Thanks sir
Do you have video about removing a Coil Pack and replacing with Distributor? Thank you
If you are referring to the GT 40 Pro Tec system, no I don't have a video on that swap but it does work, many others have done it (unless you have fuel injection, then it does not work)
Do you happen to know anything about a Chevy Big Block possible carb? Our rotor and cap look just fine so we think it’s a carb issue
Not enough data to discern a diagnosis
Do you run the purple wire from the electronic choke to the + side of coil ?
351 with edelbrock carb
That works the purple is the "Ignition +" from the key switch providing 12v+ when the key is "on", the choke does not go through a ballast resister like many of the old engines used. The new electronic distributors & coils need the full 12V power to run correctly.
Hi Ron.....I have an unrelated question. My (original) engine manual (from 1996) says to NOT use synthetic oil. Why would that be.....and has motor oils changed since then to where it would now be safe to use it in my engine? I just don't understand why that is such a big deal to avoid (PCM 351W). Thanks.
My GUESS is they don't want owners to think they should use what the car/truck versions use (light-weight synthetics) this would be a mistake. Personally I use 10-40 non-synthetic in my boats but add a pint of STP to get the zinc back in the oil. Remember our engine run harder than cars/trucks, and also run MUCH cooler negating the need to high temp capacity oils (synthetics)
@@rontanis1024 Well I also own a 2005 Bennington tri-toon pontoon 26' boat with a 5.7L Volvo Penta engine (it's a 350 Chevy). I've been using full synthetic in that as I like to open her up and we also pull the kids tubing. Are you saying I shouldn't use synthetic on that engine either? What I use in that is Amsoil 10W-40 Marine Full Synthetic....so obviously it's specific to marine application.
@@keithzastrow Synthetics are designed for high operating temps, think 205 deg+ coolant temps. Pricy Amsoil I believe does contain zinc which is good.
I have 89 us marine ski challenger, not electronic distributor , I replaced it , it starts but idle is low , adjusted idle but still stalls out after a minute running , hit throttle stalls out . Set it a 10 .. what am I doing wrong
Going to need a bit more info for this feel free to call Ron mid-week when he is not as busy as Mondays or Fridays.
Getting ready to replace the distributor, coil, plugs and wires on my 351W that's in my 1996 Moomba ski boat. You still like this brand of distributor?
yes
@@rontanis1024 It appears I have points and have already ordered that same Protronix distributor and coil you have in your video. Since I am making these changes (also upgrading the plug wires and plugs) do you have any idea what reach spark plugs I need to buy and what the gap should be at? I have the original engine owners manual and for points it said to gap at .035" and for Protec Ign gap at .045". Also do I need to change my timing after swapping all this out/upgrading? My manual 10 degrees BTDC @ 600rpm for Mallory Dist. and for Prestolite Dist. at 600rpm it says Clip Ret. 6 degrees BTDC, Screw Ret. 10 degrees BTDC. I am FAR from a mechanic but absolutely believe I can do all of this myself especially after watching your video. I tried to ask these question to PCM but they said I had to call my local Moomba dealer. I just called them and they were fairly clueless. I am at your mercy for help.
@@rontanis1024 I have all the parts....getting ready to change everything. I got the same distributor and coil you ended up putting in the boat in this video. In the coil instructions it says to disconnect the resistor if you have one. How do I know if I have one? PCM 351W in a 1996 Moomba. All original. I have owned it since new.
@@keithzastrow gap at .035" - .040", the hotter coil will pull this. I would time at idle for 6 deg BTDC if running std 87 octane fuels.
@@keithzastrow With key on measure the voltage at the coil purple wire, if it is the same as the battery voltage (up to .5 volt less) then you do not have a ballast resister in line, but if you measure 12-12.5 at the battery & 9 volts +/- .5 you have a ballast resister in line.
Do the wires for the distri. Have a specific location or can the bottom part be positioned anywhere
You want the #1 Cylinder when at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke to have the dist. rotor pointed at the dist. cap plug wire as #1, then follow firing order. So the simple answer is no you can't put the plug wires into the cap anywhere.
Thanks I guess my question was about the position of the bottom of the distributor the part that spins
@@rontanis1024 I’m basically timed up and still all I get is backfire from the carb
Great video Ron! Appreciate it as this my winter project, would you happen to have the pertronix part numbers for these parts?
Here is the link: skiboatpartsonline.com/inboard-engine-parts/tune-up-maint/distributor-ford.html
skiboatpartsonline.com/inboard-engine-parts/tune-up-maint/ignition-coil-flame-thrower.html
Thank you
Nice video but losing 50% of the drive surface for the oil pump doesn't seem reasonable to me. Maybe it's OK to the Pertronix engineers because they don't have to replace the engine if the oil pump drive shaft wears /fails prematurely. Is this a 'one size fits both' distributor that fits both 351W (with higher deck height) and 302/289? Seems a compromise that may have consequences down the road. If the engine has a high volume oil pump (and the installer may not know this) there is even more resistance to rotation and the problem is made worse.
No they use a different length for the short deck, that was my first question when I started selling these, that they sent the wrong one, but Pertronix assured me they have sold thousands of these & the oil shaft has plenty of "grip", We have sold hundreds of these & have perfect results. I like you would prefer a longer tail shaft.
Why do you insist on 6 degrees advance? I have a 1996 Moomba Boomerang with a 351W PCM engine. Manual says stock is 10 degrees BTDC. I have mine at 14. Sure, I have to run 89 octane but it runs like a raped ape. Have had it since it was new (original owner).
Older non-computer Fords call for 6 deg advance (PCM & Indmar) I didn't write the book. Experience with the older Fords confirms this is a good setting for most applications. IF you want to run premium fuels I use the Power-Timing method.
@@rontanis1024 Thanks for the reply. Excellent video by the way.
@@rontanis1024 Are those Petronix distributors your brand of choice (for my boat/application)?
@@keithzastrow If you have a conventional dist. now, then yes, if you have a multi-coil set-up then no, What make you think you need a new dist. already??
@@rontanis1024 I can't honestly answer that yet....just thinking ahead. I still need to hook up a timing light and I don't even know for sure if I have points or electronic ignition but I'm thinking the latter simply based on the year of the boat/engine. It starts rough and doesn't like to idle very well. Yes I realize this could mean other things than just the ignition but after seeing this video and some others it got me thinking. My boat has always been taken well care of. Stored in my pole barn in the winter (I winterize the engine myself) and is on a covered hoist when in the water. I did just change the cap and rotor 2 years ago....wires and plugs are still original. Was planning to change those as well if/when I replace the distributor. Looking for recommendations for both of those too. Thanks again.