Ski Boat Winterizing 101
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- Опубліковано 19 вер 2019
- Winterizing a traditional inboard ski boat, a printed more detailed instruction guide can be found in the link below.
NOTE: We do not cover "Fogging" this is a simple procedure to coat the upper engine with oils, however if over oiled you can cause severe damage to the engine. This video also does not cover items like heaters, ballast tanks, showers, sinks, etc. found on may newer boats, refer to your owners manual for these.
Parts: www.skiboatpartsonline.com/in...
How to checklist rontanis.com/winterizing-your-...
Parts used in this video:
Sta-Bil: skiboatpartsonline.com/inboar...
Brass Drain: skiboatpartsonline.com/inboar...
Pump Screws: skiboatpartsonline.com/inboar...
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I just bought my first ski boat. It is a 1987 Supra Comp and I knew nothing about boats. After only 2 weeks of owning it I have learned a ton of good info from you and want to say I appreciate the tips and tricks!!
Excellent video, thanks so much. Picked up a beautiful '93 Prostar in the spring, and now I'll have no trouble preparing it for a Montana winter.
Thank you for this! I ran mine on raw water until yo to temp and then funneled the antifreeze in from the pick up tube. I was very pleased when I followed along with your video to find antifreeze throughout. Still drained everything like the video. Didn’t want to take any chances. It gets very cold here in the winter, but you made it easy!
Great video Mr Ron... this makes things so much easier, especially since I'll be doing this to that exact boat... thanks
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I was so worried about winterizing. I am the new owner of a 1991 MC Pro Star 190 and I need to learn how to take care of it. You have become my authority. Love your videos!
Thank you Ron, will be winterizing a ski boat for the first time this winter and your video really helped. Thanks again! :)
Ron, Thank you for this video which inspired me to do more than just drain the block this winter. The hose pick tool is a winner, easy to use and saved my knuckles.
Thanks Ron! Always appreciate your tips! 👍🏼
Im a marine technician apprentice these is beneficial and makes want to a full fledged certified marine technician.
excellent advice on why to change the oil the in the spring... the heat/cold cycles within the engine definitely draws condensation over a period of a couple months
Thank you very much for sharing your knowldge and experience:)
I am building a boat and soon I'll install an engine. I will use all your recomandation before storing the engine for winter. It get very cold in winter timer here in Norway.
Great video Ron - thank you! I'm new to boating - bought a 18 foot 1991 Celebrity Bowrider with Mercruiser 5.0. Paid $180 to have it winterized last year. Your video gave me incentive to do it myself. I was a little nervous not using antifreeze, but I drained everything and it was quite easy following your steps. Interesting note: when I removed one of the block drain plugs (brass), found it was only finger tight. This is why I'm a DIY'er.
Hey Ted
I found the exact same thing, with BOTH of my Block drain plugs.....they were both just Hand Tight!
Where as, I can not Budge the Manifold Drain Plugs? lol
Agree with you !!!
The problem is on older boats you have now removed block plugs and manifold plugs so many times that these soft alloy plugs get flattened threads. I had to retap the threads in my block. All you have to do is remove the hose clamp from the hose that is pulling water from the lake, put it in a bucket of antifreeze, and let your engine pull antifreeze throughout your engine and cooling system. You then have antifreeze everywhere, including in the impeller pump, and you save your plugs and your engine block. My buddy has been doing it this way for 30 years, and I felt pretty stupid because I started having so many problems from removing and reinstalling plugs for so many years.
Excellent video. Very helpful. Thank you.
Nicely done video. Thanks!
Amazing video. Thanks so much.
Fuel Tank Level: I've been asked about fuel tank level during the off season. Here is what I do: After adding the appropriate amount of Sta-Bil in the tank, running the engine, I prefer to siphon the remaining fuel in the tank and use it in my lawn tractor, or for my northern friends your snow blower, or car. I want the fuel lines, and carb left with treated fuel, minimal fuel in tank, and add fresh fuel in the spring.
Great tips, Thank You!
Hi Ron...
Glad I ran into your section on You Tube....I have a '97 Ski Brendella, that I am wanting to Winterize....and I got the Block drained easily, as the Block Plugs were really easy to get out....but....as my Luck would go...the Manifold Drain Plugs are un the Bottom of the Manifolds....and they are the Female Plugs, where I can stick my 1/2 inch Ratchet or 1/2 Breaker bar in there, with no problem....very easy to get to.
My Problem is....they are IN THERE.....and do not want to Back Out / Turn.
I am afraid of Cracking my Manifolds by pulling on my Breaker Bar to much or putting an Extension pipe onto my ratchet and applying to much pressure....and Snapping my Manifolds....which is once again....the kind of Luck that I have.
Is it possible to apply too much Pulling pressure on the Manifolds....or....I am good to go?
I think that they were taken out last winter, by the shop that Winterized my Boat...BUT....They don't seem to be budging.
This is my First Time, attempting to Winterize my own boat, and I just dont want to end up Cracking those Manifolds by exerting to much Force on those Drain Plugs.
Secondly.....here is a Stupid question for you, BUT.....How do I locate my Impeller on my 350 Chevy?
Your video is a No Brainer....its right there, in plain view.
I think that mine....might be located directly behind a Pulley?
Who ever thought about putting the Impeller BEHIND the Pulley, should be SHOT! lol
WHY, do they not design our Inboards so that they are easy to work on???
You would think, that there would be a T coming off the Raw Water Intake....so that you could screw a Garden Hose to it....it would make Sucking up Anti Freeze ( Out of a Bucket) with the "Short" Garden Hose addition, a very simple thing to do!
So Ron, Id appreciate any help or advice that you can give me, on how to go about getting those Manifold Drain Plugs loosened up?
If you had an Email address, I could send you some pictures of where "I THINK" that the Impeller is hiding at, on my 350.
Thanks in advance Ron.
Cheers
Ray
Very helpful
I have been asked about "fogging" the engine, here are my thoughts on this:
I used to fog the engine at winterizing time but no longer do it, instead I add STP oil treatment to my oil when I change it and found that it works really well at preserving and, allows the oil to "hang" on the surfaces better/longer. (Use it on everything I own) STP contains a zinc additive no longer found in modern oils because it may cause premature failures in catalyst exhaust systems (may) so the oil companies removed it. Zinc is the stuff that makes oil slippery and hang on metal. The theory is that fogging or gently pouring oil down the throat of the carb. or throttle body will coat the upper portion of the engine with oil to prevent rust. It does make a lot of smoke (which the kids like) but to get enough oil in the upper engine you need to run the engine fast enough (1000-1500rpm) to have the volume of air moving to coat the intake and valve area thoroughly and pour the oil in at the correct volume stream to do this without damaging the engine. This is generally not a problem for experienced mechanics, but I am skeptical to show/advise the average viewer this procedure for fear someone hydro-locks a cylinder and calls me complaining they just bent a valve. I have not fogged an engine in several years and do inspect the valvetrain through the oil fill hole and find no detrimental effects of not fogging the engine. My personal boats are the worst case scenario because they get little use and are in a very humid climate .
Ron Tanis d
So you feel the stp "hangs" on all through the using season enough "hang" on engine components all winter season since you don't change oil till spring...... I was told you fog it down to protect the engine insides sitting for months in off season.
I typically remove the other raw water pump hose at the pump, bring it up high and add antifreeze that way. It seems to get antifreeze in the block because I can watch it come out of the block drains. I do this because even after draining my block one year I had a freeze plug come out. Curious what your thoughts are? The boat is a 91 PS190 with the Indmar 351. Thanks!
By the way, I live on the lake, so my boat is rarely on a trailer. I run the boat before winterizing so that it’s warm enough for the thermostat to open…
Ron - Great video & explanations - I have a 1973 Ski Nautique (have owned it since 1974 - Ford 351 Windsor block). I do put antifreeze in the block, and instead of taking off the thermostat housing, I take out the water temperature probe, that is on the top left (port) side of the block, and slowly pour antifreeze into the little probe hole. I've done this for 45 years of winterizing with no problems. In your opinion, is this a good alternate avenue into the block water system, to get the antifreeze to the appropriate location(s)? - Thanks. (Again, sincerely - Great Video).
That would work, the few times I have drained>added antifreeze I removed the T-stat and also removed any accumulated debris in there. The old school prestone with rust inhibitors has the best performance but hard to collect when un-winterizing.
Love the suggestions! Can you tell me what the purpose of the WD40 spray down is? Just metal protectant? So condensation does not sit on the metal?
I started doing this 30+ years ago, to preserve the painted surfaces of the engine, it became obvious which engines over time had been sprayed & which ones had not been sprayed, things like carbs, alternators etc. look like new 30 years later when sprayed down every winter, the others look..well they looked nasty, with rust, & oxidation everywhere.
Great video Ron. Someone on another page was just asking about this and I told him to just take the hoses off. I'm going to forward the link to this so they can watch it rather than run antifreeze through it. The other thing I was noticing though is there's no jam nut on the top of the Ford motor mounts. Is this common? Mine has jam nuts.
These mounts have threaded trunions and the jam nuts are on the underside.
Just looking at the coolant flow path I can see that from the engine water pump the water enters the engine block immediately and than the thermostat and will partially bypass to the headers as well as back into the engine water pump all while the thermostat is closed thus the antifreeze and bucket will work. I don't like the idea of a drained dry engine because now you allow rust to form internally the same way the cylinders will rust unless you fog them. Does that change your mind about using antifreeze?
100% agree with you.
Great video, thank you!!
Also, you can get antifreeze running thru your motor by pouring it into top of j hose, no need to dissamble thermostat housing. Your impeller removal method is asking for trouble. Hard steel against soft brass/bronze alloy? In addition the raw water pump gasket plate gasket is a 1 time use item. Replace every season to prevent leaks. For good starts loosen distributor so it does not get condensation when first days of weather return.
Anything you need to do different on a V drive boat?
My boat guy hasn’t been doing this right, grrrrr, time for myself to do it.
Back in the 80’s I was taught to fog the engine. I noticed that you didn’t mention that.
See notes above, Too many people today do not have a "feel" for this & have over fogged/oiled and hydro-locked cylinders, I personally do my own, but I no longer promote it to the general DIY'r
would you recommend replacing the iron plugs with brass plugs?
Yes if you can find them, the 3/4" plugs with 1/2" drive holes are not common plugs to find.
What’s your thoughts on fogging the carburetor? Also wondering what to do to drain the heater.
Fogging is a good practice but I reserve promoting this to novice mechanics as too much fogging oils can hydro-lock an engine. Find the heater hoses (2) at the engine, remove them at the engine, drop one in the bilge, and blow from the other hose all the water out through the lower hose.
I may have to take the exhaust manifolds off to soak the drain plug for that long.
I followed this process to winterize my first boat (1990 Mastercraft Tristar). Thank you for the video. Now, what is the process to “summarize” it? I have a fake a lake.
After damagine engines years ago using the Fake a lake we refuse to use that device, use a 5 gallon bucket, (we have another video on that) ua-cam.com/video/AE37Gt70DF8/v-deo.html
Basically reverse the winterizing, plus I do the oil & filter changes in the spring, check shaft alignment, adjust as needed, clean the boat & start using it.
@@rontanis1024 Thank you!
They look like iron plugs. I'm using a 9/16" hex head on a 1/2" break-over bar.
I can't seem to get the drain plugs broke loose on my exhaust manifolds. I've tried heating them up with a small propane torch and penetrating oil and they still won't budge. Any suggestions on how to get them out?
Are they iron plugs with 1/2" square holes? If so I have used a 1/2" drive breaker bar 20" long in the past to break them loose. My favorite penetrating oil is a home brew of acetone & ATF oil 50/50 mix. soak them in that solution for an hour & try again, remember acetone is very flammable. When using heat you want to heat the manifold not the plug, the object is to expand the surrounding metal to help loosen up the plug.
@@rontanis1024 I just saw this info now, since I am having the exact same issues. Its pretty tough getting Penetrating Oil onto something, that is Up Side Down and directly Underneath the Manifolds.
We all have the same engines ( For the most part ) in our Older Inboards....but....all the manifolds are different and all the Impellers are different, and it doesn't matter if you have a Chevy 350 or a Ford 351....Parts vary from boat to boat....not engine to engine. They all seem to run different parts.
So.....any other ideas on how to loosen off my Manifold Drain plugs?
I don't want to screw anything up!
@@raykinsellas9089 At some point the rust, crust & corrosion become so bad that it really is time to replace, cast iron manifolds go bad, & it is better to replace before they start leaking water into the cylinders causing even bigger problems.
Once you get the plugs out replace plug with brass 3/4” to 1/2” reducer and 1/2” elbow and 1/2” shutoff valve. All NPT fittings. This way you just open valve to drain. When you replace the manifolds use the same fittings
what about adding a oil centrifuge on the engine to clean the engine oil and it will remove the water in the oil and use it instead of a oil filter (it cleans better)
I want my boats as simple as I can get them, std full capacity oil filter is all I need.
Ron. I have a 1990 American skier. Is the trans cooler high enough that I don’t need to drain it?
I usually drop the hose off the raw water pump and let it down in the bilge to drain the hose & oil cooler, bottom line is you don't want to trap water in the cooler.
Ron Tanis so in addition it would be good to drop the nose of the boat nice an low. Because I have a heater, I’m assuming the block drain on the drivers side is also the return from the heater? Do I have to do anything with the heater/rad under the dash?
@@t.skalta3227 Yes I like to disconnect both heater hoses, drop one in the bilge, take compressed air and blow into the other until the water stops coming out then lay the second hose in the bilge
Awesome man. Thank you so much! If I was to drain the trans cooler do you have a video for that?
It gets pretty cold in Calgary
I've seen a few winterizing vids now. What about fogging the cylinders? You did not do that, but most of the other videos show that. Let me add, I have a 5.7L v8, and there is absolutely no way to remove the spark plugs without first removing the exhaust manifolds. Lord knows I've tried. My plan is to add the Stabil, run the boat for a good half-hour, then while still running, fog through the carburetor until it chokes out. Take it home and drain all the water per your video. Thanks.
Actually, just saw your note a bit further down re fogging the engine. However, I don't know if I can add the STP because the reman engine has less than 50 hours on it and the engine company said not to add additives or use synthetic oil until the 100 hour mark because the pistons are still seating and synthetic is too slippery. Who knew?
What do you do for winterizing the bilge pump......
1) I leave the bilge drains out to drain any water in the bilge, most all bilge pumps are centrifugal and are self draining, some do have a check valve that could trap water in the hose, if yours has a check valve I would disconnect the hose from the pump & let it drain into the bilge.
Ron,
Great video - I have a heater under the dash. What additional steps do I need to take to winterize? Thanks
At minimum disconnect both water lines at the engine and lay them in the bilge, then I like to blow the water out until clear, then I will reverse and blow the other way until clear.
Ron Tanis
Thanks Ron! Your video is extremely helpful. Appreciate your tutorial on antifreeze and engine oil. I’m going dry this year!
I can’t get the plug out of the manifold. What is the best way to get the plug out
Hey Ron,
Did you ever get any advice on how to get the Plugs out on your Manifold.
I am having the exact same problems!
Cheers
1/2” breaker bar, then put some anti sleaze on those threads the next time you put it back in.
With all due respect, I don't believe water condensation over the winter is a problem. Water can't get into the closed oil system as it's not open to the atmosphere. I believe that fresh oil in the fall is better, there will not be acids and combustion byproducts degrading the block all winter long. To coin a phrase: "I've been doing it this way for 32 years, never had a problem". YMMV
If you ask 10 qualified marine mechanics you will probably get 10 different answers on winterization. Condensation is a real issue but is very dependent on where & how the boat is stored. Boats that are stored inside with minimal temperature swings will get minimal condensation if any.
Thank you for responding, I wasn't expecting this! I do respect your opinion@@rontanis1024
you like to leave the tank more full or more empty..?
see my new coment
Why dont you reccomend putting antisieze on manifold plug and other drain plug threads? I disagree with your trans cooler methodology, to easy to have water stay in and cause damage. Always could to pull inlet hose..you dont mention drain plug on trans cooler. Impeller should be replaced every season.
Anti Seize would be a GREAT IDEA, as I can't BUDGE my Manifold Drain Plugs!
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Your competition gave you a thumbs down.
So you don't change the oil and filter nor fog the engine? You forgot to mention the sacks in the back and winterizing them I will make sure not to take my boat to you guys
There are 2 thoughts on when to change oil, before winter or after, I prefer to do it after. Condensation that can form during the lay-up period will stay in the oil, if you change the oil in the spring you also drain the condensation. Older ski boats run 140 degree t-stats and this does not allow the engines to warm the oil up enough to boil water out. Fogging, yes I do it but I have found that the avg. DIYer may not be competent to do this, I have had too many customers over fog and hydrolock the engine costing them big$$$ This video was made for traditional ski boats, the do not have ballast systems.
@@rontanis1024 Gases in the combustion cycle go into the crank case and the by product of the combustion gases have acid in it. That acid and by products get into the oil . When you run an engine for the season you have a lot of idling and stop and start situations. After awhile you get a acid build up in the oil and if you don't change the oil and filter the acid from the combustion cycles that is suspended in the oil are left on bearing surfaces . By not changing the oil in the fall you are allowing the acid build up to stay suspended inside the engine and over time that acid will build up and start eroding the bearing surfaces also you will get excessive sludge in the engine by laying up the boat with out changing the oil and filter in the fall. Thank you .
Read the intro
shave the snow off your face. 1990s