0:00 Battery idle, perfectly balanced. 0:24 plug in 2a charger. Cell voltage instantly jumps 0:42 the current shows -2.0a and cell difference jumped from 0.000 to 0.013 0:50 #11 is Orange indicates highest voltage. 1:15 unplug charger and cells quickly drop to static voltage 1:28 differential is already down to 0.003v (basic multimeter cant even read that)
hi teacher, sorry for asking so many questions, why is it that my ant bms on and off button can only be used when initially plugging in the socket to turn on the ant bms, after that the button doesn't work anymore . You can't turn it off or on, when you turn it on there has to be an incoming or outgoing load before Bluetooth turns on.
I think your Bluetooth autooff timer is set too short. If you want Bluetooth to stay on until you turn it off, follow this video ua-cam.com/users/shortss4TJuR7TviE?si=NxY0Qe9mkEF1TulR
If SOC remains at 0, probably the BMS was never setup correctly. Go to ParameterSet on bottom and select FastSetting near the top. Reenter your UntiNumber (24 if you have 24s) Reenter physicalC to the AH rating of your battery. Then click Li-ion or LiFePO4 whichever chemistry you have.. Finally click “save” at the top. This will set everything at the default value for your battery.
@@imho7250 What do you fill in for the admin code, teacher? That's not the only problem, teacher, why does my ANT BMS always discharge even though I haven't connected it to any load? Is there a way to restore it to normal?
@@makmut1716 , the default password for the newer ANT BMS is 123456789abc What is the specs of your battery? Which cells were used? How many S? How many P? To restore the BMS to normal, follow what I said for FastSettings. If you too balance it and then let it sit a few days and you see one cell group is significantly lower than the others, it has a self discharging cell. If it’s significant, it might feel warmer than the other cells in that group. The ANT bms uses very little power so you can leave it for a month and the voltage won’t drop much because of the BMS. My battery is only 16ah and I leave the ant Bluetooth on all the time. And it doesn’t discharge much.
You have some really great videos on the Ant BMS. I accidentally hit "Close_bluetooth_power" and now Im not able to connect via any bluetooth apps. Bluetooth doesnt turn on even when plugged in for charging. Is there a way to turn Bluetooth back on?
Plugging in the charger should work unless your battery if fully charged. It must be a lithium charger or power supply, not lead acid charger because it won’t put out a charge unless it sees voltage. And if your bms is off it shouldn’t see voltage. If the Bluetooth is only off but the bms is on, if you run your motor the Bluetooth should turn on again. If the BMS is totally shut off, the other way to start it is the two jumper wires, but theres two types. Type 1 uses two black wires and you just touch them together for a second to start the bms. Type 2 uses a black and a red wire, and you just need to use a spare 3v-4v cell and connect to those wires for a second, red to positive.
@@imho7250 thanks so much! I have a feeling it's just the Bluetooth off and have a feeling the bms is on. Pack does take a charge when plugged in. I'm going to try turning on the motor and hopefully that will restart the bluetooth. I'm sharing your videos with a group of friends in NYC who love working on E-bikes and E-motos. Thanks for sharing. Your channel should be growing soon!
@@718og , can you get to your jump start wires easily? I have both bms, the type with two black wires is best and typically wired to a momentary on button in the battery case that allows easy start. It’s strange that the battery is charging but it didn’t turn in Bluetooth. That makes me think running the motor wouldn’t start it either. You might need to use the jumper wires. If you don’t have the jumper wires you might try unplugging the harness with the red wire for 10 seconds, then plug it back in and then connect your charger. You should hear a beep as soon as the charger is plugged in. I never hit the “turn off Bluetooth” button because that’s fairly recent in the update. My ANT is not connected right now so I can’t test to see how to turn Bluetooth back on but must be the jumper wires
Thats the difference in voltage between the lowest cell group and the highest cell group. This is one of the major indicators of battery health. The closer this stays to 0.000v (as long as it’s not broken, lol) the better the battery is. But realistic unitdiff is 0.005v-0.020v at rest. During acceleration the voltage sag of each group is different and it may cause an additional 0.005v-0.020v difference. But when unitdiff climbs as the battery discharges, it means there is a capacity mismatch in one or more groups, caused by a weak battery or a dead cell in a group with more than one cell in parallel. If you see cell differential grow abnormally when you accelerate, its a sign something is wrong with that cell group, ether the cells or the bus connection. But you know to turtle mode home and investigate the problem. It’s critical to be able to turn off all balancing so you can see the real battery condition. If the battery has an active balancer it can mask problems with the battery. Your cell differential will stay low and you will think everything is ok.
@@imho7250 Thank you teacher 🙏, but how do I check if the battery cells are damaged? I have ant bms 24S when my electric motor UnitVdiff gas is on until 1.200v if not in use 0.020-0.100v
@@makmut1716, first step is to fully charge the pack, and then click “start autobalance” and let it get down to 0.005v unitdiff. Thats the starting point. Then you would drive it and check unitdiff while full acceleration, and see what each cell group is doing. Screen recording it so you can go back and look closely around which cell group has a problem. As you continue to ride and drain the battery, if you see unit diff climbing when at rest, check to see which cell group it is. If you have a 24s1p battery, you just replace that one bad cell. Otherwise you need to figure out which cell is bad in the parallel group. I had this happen in my 13s5p pack. All you can do is carefully cut the nickel on negative side of a cell in that group and test it to see if its different voltage (meaning the CID is tripped). If its same voltage as the others, you need to cut the nickel to the next cell. And one by one test until you find the cell with different voltage. Once you find it, you can cut the CAREFULLY nickel on the positive terminal , slide that cell out, and slide a new one in. Then spot weld everything back, charge the battery and balance it again. And everything will be back to normal.
0:00 Battery idle, perfectly balanced.
0:24 plug in 2a charger. Cell voltage instantly jumps
0:42 the current shows -2.0a and cell difference jumped from 0.000 to 0.013
0:50 #11 is Orange indicates highest voltage.
1:15 unplug charger and cells quickly drop to static voltage
1:28 differential is already down to 0.003v (basic multimeter cant even read that)
hi teacher, sorry for asking so many questions, why is it that my ant bms on and off button can only be used when initially plugging in the socket to turn on the ant bms, after that the button doesn't work anymore .
You can't turn it off or on, when you turn it on there has to be an incoming or outgoing load before Bluetooth turns on.
I think your Bluetooth autooff timer is set too short. If you want Bluetooth to stay on until you turn it off, follow this video
ua-cam.com/users/shortss4TJuR7TviE?si=NxY0Qe9mkEF1TulR
Hi teacher, is there a solution in the ANT BMS SOC application, the battery remains at 0%?
If SOC remains at 0, probably the BMS was never setup correctly.
Go to ParameterSet on bottom and select FastSetting near the top.
Reenter your UntiNumber (24 if you have 24s)
Reenter physicalC to the AH rating of your battery.
Then click Li-ion or LiFePO4 whichever chemistry you have..
Finally click “save” at the top.
This will set everything at the default value for your battery.
@@imho7250 What do you fill in for the admin code, teacher? That's not the only problem, teacher, why does my ANT BMS always discharge even though I haven't connected it to any load? Is there a way to restore it to normal?
@@makmut1716 , the default password for the newer ANT BMS is 123456789abc
What is the specs of your battery? Which cells were used? How many S? How many P?
To restore the BMS to normal, follow what I said for FastSettings.
If you too balance it and then let it sit a few days and you see one cell group is significantly lower than the others, it has a self discharging cell. If it’s significant, it might feel warmer than the other cells in that group.
The ANT bms uses very little power so you can leave it for a month and the voltage won’t drop much because of the BMS. My battery is only 16ah and I leave the ant Bluetooth on all the time. And it doesn’t discharge much.
You have some really great videos on the Ant BMS. I accidentally hit "Close_bluetooth_power" and now Im not able to connect via any bluetooth apps. Bluetooth doesnt turn on even when plugged in for charging. Is there a way to turn Bluetooth back on?
Plugging in the charger should work unless your battery if fully charged. It must be a lithium charger or power supply, not lead acid charger because it won’t put out a charge unless it sees voltage. And if your bms is off it shouldn’t see voltage.
If the Bluetooth is only off but the bms is on, if you run your motor the Bluetooth should turn on again.
If the BMS is totally shut off, the other way to start it is the two jumper wires, but theres two types.
Type 1 uses two black wires and you just touch them together for a second to start the bms.
Type 2 uses a black and a red wire, and you just need to use a spare 3v-4v cell and connect to those wires for a second, red to positive.
@@imho7250 thanks so much! I have a feeling it's just the Bluetooth off and have a feeling the bms is on. Pack does take a charge when plugged in. I'm going to try turning on the motor and hopefully that will restart the bluetooth. I'm sharing your videos with a group of friends in NYC who love working on E-bikes and E-motos. Thanks for sharing. Your channel should be growing soon!
@@718og , can you get to your jump start wires easily? I have both bms, the type with two black wires is best and typically wired to a momentary on button in the battery case that allows easy start.
It’s strange that the battery is charging but it didn’t turn in Bluetooth. That makes me think running the motor wouldn’t start it either. You might need to use the jumper wires.
If you don’t have the jumper wires you might try unplugging the harness with the red wire for 10 seconds, then plug it back in and then connect your charger. You should hear a beep as soon as the charger is plugged in.
I never hit the “turn off Bluetooth” button because that’s fairly recent in the update.
My ANT is not connected right now so I can’t test to see how to turn Bluetooth back on but must be the jumper wires
what does "unitvdiff" mean
Thats the difference in voltage between the lowest cell group and the highest cell group. This is one of the major indicators of battery health. The closer this stays to 0.000v (as long as it’s not broken, lol) the better the battery is. But realistic unitdiff is 0.005v-0.020v at rest. During acceleration the voltage sag of each group is different and it may cause an additional 0.005v-0.020v difference.
But when unitdiff climbs as the battery discharges, it means there is a capacity mismatch in one or more groups, caused by a weak battery or a dead cell in a group with more than one cell in parallel.
If you see cell differential grow abnormally when you accelerate, its a sign something is wrong with that cell group, ether the cells or the bus connection. But you know to turtle mode home and investigate the problem.
It’s critical to be able to turn off all balancing so you can see the real battery condition. If the battery has an active balancer it can mask problems with the battery. Your cell differential will stay low and you will think everything is ok.
@@imho7250 Thank you teacher 🙏, but how do I check if the battery cells are damaged? I have ant bms 24S when my electric motor UnitVdiff gas is on until 1.200v if not in use 0.020-0.100v
@@makmut1716, first step is to fully charge the pack, and then click “start autobalance” and let it get down to 0.005v unitdiff. Thats the starting point.
Then you would drive it and check unitdiff while full acceleration, and see what each cell group is doing. Screen recording it so you can go back and look closely around which cell group has a problem.
As you continue to ride and drain the battery, if you see unit diff climbing when at rest, check to see which cell group it is.
If you have a 24s1p battery, you just replace that one bad cell. Otherwise you need to figure out which cell is bad in the parallel group.
I had this happen in my 13s5p pack. All you can do is carefully cut the nickel on negative side of a cell in that group and test it to see if its different voltage (meaning the CID is tripped). If its same voltage as the others, you need to cut the nickel to the next cell. And one by one test until you find the cell with different voltage.
Once you find it, you can cut the CAREFULLY nickel on the positive terminal , slide that cell out, and slide a new one in. Then spot weld everything back, charge the battery and balance it again. And everything will be back to normal.