Nicely done! I’ve installed this system a couple times and you hit all the points. I would say, and you showed it, that last 16” back panel gets the inside corner trim put on before installing. They don’t tell you that even tho it seems obvious.
Thank you for making this video - I feel so much better about attempting this project after seeing you do it and hearing/seeing your tips to make things go easier. MUCH appreciated!
I appreciate that, when I did mine there wasn't much for help and the instructions were not great either. It turned out great and I love the new shower.
You did great, i’m looking at ordering these panels from my local Menards and was curious how the install would be. Looks likes it’s pretty straightforward and simple. Thanks for the video
It was a great informative video, well done. Got a question, the slight gap due to the thickness of 2 sided tape near both front edges of side panels. Are they quite noticeable as they stand off the wall the thickness of the tape? Did you then also culk the void on both front side panels. Thanks for the time to make the video. I myself in the finishing trades of Union but never messed with this particular product but just bought it for my kids bathroom 👍🏼
Thanks for posting this, super-helpful. I thought I read somewhere that once you click in the tongue&groove back panels they can't be separated again...but it looks like you did click them together for your taped up dry-fit, then separated them with no issues, right? Thanks again
Thanks for taking the time to post this. In hindsight, do you think it might look nice to rip the side pieces so the front edge would line up with the edge of the pan? Do you think there are any down sides to this? How about shelves? Did you mount some simple screw-in wire corner shelves? Kohler makes some in difference finishes. The tile look is pretty nice. Are you happy you chose this type of wall panel over a 3-panel molded type surround system? Jetcoat costs just a little more, has a few styles, and it seems the result is more attractive. Thanks again.
I think cutting the panels would look good aesthetically. I can't think of any reason it would cause an issue. I am very happy with the surround and how it turned out. In hindsight I would have done a 3 piece direct to stud kit for ease of install. I went minimalist for shelving. Shower caddy that hangs from the shower head supply pipe.
@@bigpermsgarage6290 Thanks. Since you are happy with the result with the Jetcoat, I'm surprised that you said you would choose a 3-piece direct-to-stud system if you had to do it again. I understand that it's a lot easier (no wall panel/prep to do, no special cuts or adhesive, etc.), so I guess you're saying that, although the Jetcoat looks good, the extra effort was not worth it for you. I was thinking Jetcoat is a good alternative for those wanting a tile look but without the hassle of sealing, cleaning, maintaining grout.
I love how it had turned out and I wouldn't change it. I was not aware of the direct to stud systems prior to my build. The tile look looked better than anything else I had seen and I didn't want to install ceramic so I spent a little more on jet coat. I do like that the direct to stud systems come with shelves formed into the panels though.
I'm really nervous about cutting the panel. Which saw blade did you use (number of teeth)? Did you use a guide or just followed a pencil line? Was there any chipping of the panal? Did I mention that I'm really nervous about cutting it 😬🙂
I suggest using a guide, it was just my standard circular saw blade. I can count the teeth of it later on when I get home. There was no chipping at all. I was nervous before I made the cut, but was pleasantly suprised.
@@bigpermsgarage6290 I think I know which blade you mean, the ones that normally come standard with the saw. So I don't have to spend $40 - $60 for a 60 or 68 tooth blade for fine cutting. Thank you
sorry for another question, as another has mentioned this is the best video I have seen on this product. The makers of Jetcoat should sponsor it. Like most walls i have low spots, do i need to fill these in with dry wall mud to get the level or just let the product float or even mold into them.
It really depends on how low they are. You have the thickness of adhesive tape and a good bead or construction adhesive you might be ok. I tried to get mine as flat, square and plumb as possible. If you are asking the question then you should fill it. If it fails later you will wish you took the extra time to do it.
i would be curious if others have also installed jetcoat? or maybe if you did it with a Tub? They say dont use the corner trim if more than a 1/4 inch out, not sure how exact that needs to be or the best way to measure. A square in the corner shows its maybe right at a 1/4 for me.
The best way to know how far out of plumb your walls are is by using a long level or a laser level vertically, draw a line of reference and then measure at the top, middle and bottom of your wall to the reference line to reference line to see if there is a difference. The laser level is the quickest and you don't have to make any marks, only hold the tape out to the laser line.
That is the size I have, just curious of the overhang of the panel on the 34" side if the side panels are 34". How difficult is the maintenance to clean the panels? Soap residue? Thank you so much!
There is almost no maintenance on the panels at all. As long as you keep the shower clean often enough you won't have any issues. I did not cut the side panels at all so whatever the factory size is will tell you the overhang. I'd share a pi ture but the conversation won't let me.
Thank you for the video! I installed Flexstone a few years back in my old house, but am about to do another shower install in my new basement. Looked at Foremost's Jetcoat panels because I noticed they are a bit less expensive. Question I have is are you installing a shower door or just shower curtain?
Yeah it says on the product not to use on "water proof backer board" - not sure if the post red guard is the same. I was hoping to use GO Board for example but I would need another adhesive I think. Gorilla glue has an all purpose construction adhesive that has the most bold claims of any product I've seen, I certainly haven't had any bad experiences with their products, I'll probably go with that.
I just measured from the wall, ceiling and shower pan to the center of the mixing valve. Plotted it out and used a hole saw with a pilot bit to drill the hole. If you read the directions from your mixing valve it will give you a range of what circumference the hole should be. If I remember correctly mine was 3 inch. After install I also ran silicone around the hole to make it more water resistant.
Ill be doing this on a tub (more cuts) but the flange has a about a 1 1/2 inch gap. Can the panel float over that or do i need to fill it in with silicon caulk or something else
I would personally fill the gap and do a final silicone across the edges. You can fill it with what ever product works for you, as long as it can't wick moisture upwards. If you don't backfill it I think you will get movement over time and your silicone will fail.
I used green board, water resistant drywall/substrate followed by the water proofing membrane Red guard. This along with any silicone required should be more than sufficient. I usually use backer board and redguard with tile applications.
I haven't personally seen it. I would imagine that it's possible, maybe not manufacturer suggested. People are installing tile over tile so using a good bonding agent will probably give the same results.
What construction adhesive do you recommend. I see that you used the LocTite Power Grab. I have used that product in the past for a totally different project and was very disappointed in the adhesion results. When I called, the support line, they said to use Construction Grade Silicon? I am not seeing that as an adhesive verses being a sealer. I am leaning toward the Gorilla Glue, Heavy Duty Constructive Adhesive "Ultimate All Surface" but this is a big decision and I don't want to mess it up.
@kraftcop the lock tite was a special tub and shower surround adhesive. Gorilla glue is good as well, or liquid nails has one. It's solid as a rock, no issues.
@Dave Schaub it's a normal go pro camera. I haven't heard any other complaints. Thanks for showing your displeasure in my fancy camera equipment on a channel that doesn't monetize and only is here to help others.
Did you use joint compound on the greenboard?...getting mixed information on that...some say redgard won't stick to it at all and some say as long as the wall has been thoroughly cleaned of dust that it does just fine
I ran my greenboard slightly above the raised lip. I used silicone to seal any gap and rolled the red guard over it after it had cured. Just make sure to tape the pan when putting on the red guard on, it will save you a headache. If you have large gaps I have heard of people using great stuff and putting red guard over that. Your panels will run down to the pan and you caulk the edges there.
@@bigpermsgarage6290 Thanks for the reply! If you stopped the drywall right above the pan lip didn't you have a gap between the pan and the panel since the drywall is 1/2 inch and the pan lip is an 1/8 or 1/4 inch?
The 1/2 green board sits just about on top of that flange. The substrate/drywall should never enter the pan. If there are any gaps I run silicone and redguard liquid membrane.
Nicely done! I’ve installed this system a couple times and you hit all the points. I would say, and you showed it, that last 16” back panel gets the inside corner trim put on before installing. They don’t tell you that even tho it seems obvious.
Excellent video. Putting up my Jetcoat panels today. This video and comments have all my questions answered. Thanks for posting.
Glad it helped
Your video was honestly the best one so far. Very informative and you did such a clean install. I can tell you do lots of projects like this
Thank you!
Thank you for making this video - I feel so much better about attempting this project after seeing you do it and hearing/seeing your tips to make things go easier. MUCH appreciated!
This is the reason I made the video. Thank you for the recognition. Glad to help.
The only good video I’ve found on UA-cam for this system. 👍🏾
I appreciate that, when I did mine there wasn't much for help and the instructions were not great either. It turned out great and I love the new shower.
Very helpful. Much appreciated. Best video on this topic.
Thank you! Glad I could help.
who else was yelling @ 13:43, "Peel off the backing of the tape" LOL
I was yelling it at myself after doing it and watching myself. Can't win them all lol.
You did great, i’m looking at ordering these panels from my local Menards and was curious how the install would be. Looks likes it’s pretty straightforward and simple. Thanks for the video
It was a great informative video, well done. Got a question, the slight gap due to the thickness of 2 sided tape near both front edges of side panels. Are they quite noticeable as they stand off the wall the thickness of the tape? Did you then also culk the void on both front side panels. Thanks for the time to make the video. I myself in the finishing trades of Union but never messed with this particular product but just bought it for my kids bathroom 👍🏼
I caulked the full perimeter so there is no visible gap.
Thank you for making this video! This is exactly how we want to redo our bathroom. What size of shower pan do you have?
I believe it is 34" x 48"
Thank you sir!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for posting this, super-helpful. I thought I read somewhere that once you click in the tongue&groove back panels they can't be separated again...but it looks like you did click them together for your taped up dry-fit, then separated them with no issues, right? Thanks again
I didn't have any issues separating them after the dry fit.
Thanks for taking the time to post this. In hindsight, do you think it might look nice to rip the side pieces so the front edge would line up with the edge of the pan? Do you think there are any down sides to this? How about shelves? Did you mount some simple screw-in wire corner shelves? Kohler makes some in difference finishes. The tile look is pretty nice. Are you happy you chose this type of wall panel over a 3-panel molded type surround system? Jetcoat costs just a little more, has a few styles, and it seems the result is more attractive. Thanks again.
I think cutting the panels would look good aesthetically. I can't think of any reason it would cause an issue. I am very happy with the surround and how it turned out. In hindsight I would have done a 3 piece direct to stud kit for ease of install. I went minimalist for shelving. Shower caddy that hangs from the shower head supply pipe.
@@bigpermsgarage6290 Thanks. Since you are happy with the result with the Jetcoat, I'm surprised that you said you would choose a 3-piece direct-to-stud system if you had to do it again. I understand that it's a lot easier (no wall panel/prep to do, no special cuts or adhesive, etc.), so I guess you're saying that, although the Jetcoat looks good, the extra effort was not worth it for you. I was thinking Jetcoat is a good alternative for those wanting a tile look but without the hassle of sealing, cleaning, maintaining grout.
I love how it had turned out and I wouldn't change it. I was not aware of the direct to stud systems prior to my build. The tile look looked better than anything else I had seen and I didn't want to install ceramic so I spent a little more on jet coat. I do like that the direct to stud systems come with shelves formed into the panels though.
I'm really nervous about cutting the panel.
Which saw blade did you use (number of teeth)?
Did you use a guide or just followed a pencil line?
Was there any chipping of the panal?
Did I mention that I'm really nervous about cutting it 😬🙂
I suggest using a guide, it was just my standard circular saw blade. I can count the teeth of it later on when I get home. There was no chipping at all. I was nervous before I made the cut, but was pleasantly suprised.
@@bigpermsgarage6290 I think I know which blade you mean, the ones that normally come standard with the saw. So I don't have to spend $40 - $60 for a 60 or 68 tooth blade for fine cutting.
Thank you
Yep, nothing special.
sorry for another question, as another has mentioned this is the best video I have seen on this product. The makers of Jetcoat should sponsor it. Like most walls i have low spots, do i need to fill these in with dry wall mud to get the level or just let the product float or even mold into them.
It really depends on how low they are. You have the thickness of adhesive tape and a good bead or construction adhesive you might be ok. I tried to get mine as flat, square and plumb as possible. If you are asking the question then you should fill it. If it fails later you will wish you took the extra time to do it.
not sure why you muded the seams and corners, not needed, whats the redcoat stuff ?
@joesmith9053 I mudded it so the redcoat water membrane could do it's job in all spots.
i would be curious if others have also installed jetcoat? or maybe if you did it with a Tub? They say dont use the corner trim if more than a 1/4 inch out, not sure how exact that needs to be or the best way to measure. A square in the corner shows its maybe right at a 1/4 for me.
The best way to know how far out of plumb your walls are is by using a long level or a laser level vertically, draw a line of reference and then measure at the top, middle and bottom of your wall to the reference line to reference line to see if there is a difference. The laser level is the quickest and you don't have to make any marks, only hold the tape out to the laser line.
That is the size I have, just curious of the overhang of the panel on the 34" side if the side panels are 34". How difficult is the maintenance to clean the panels? Soap residue? Thank you so much!
There is almost no maintenance on the panels at all. As long as you keep the shower clean often enough you won't have any issues. I did not cut the side panels at all so whatever the factory size is will tell you the overhang. I'd share a pi ture but the conversation won't let me.
Thank you for the video! I installed Flexstone a few years back in my old house, but am about to do another shower install in my new basement. Looked at Foremost's Jetcoat panels because I noticed they are a bit less expensive. Question I have is are you installing a shower door or just shower curtain?
I installed double rolling shower doors.
Foremost® Lagoon Brushed Nickel Semi-Frameless Sliding Shower Door with Clear Glass
How well did the Loctite tub surround work for you? I've read reviews dissuading the use for surrounds that have the red coat or lacret
It's been about 2 years and I use it daily with no issues. Still holding great.
Yeah it says on the product not to use on "water proof backer board" - not sure if the post red guard is the same. I was hoping to use GO Board for example but I would need another adhesive I think. Gorilla glue has an all purpose construction adhesive that has the most bold claims of any product I've seen, I certainly haven't had any bad experiences with their products, I'll probably go with that.
How did you go about cutting the hole for the shower control. Obviously a hole saw
I just measured from the wall, ceiling and shower pan to the center of the mixing valve. Plotted it out and used a hole saw with a pilot bit to drill the hole. If you read the directions from your mixing valve it will give you a range of what circumference the hole should be. If I remember correctly mine was 3 inch. After install I also ran silicone around the hole to make it more water resistant.
Ill be doing this on a tub (more cuts) but the flange has a about a 1 1/2 inch gap. Can the panel float over that or do i need to fill it in with silicon caulk or something else
I would personally fill the gap and do a final silicone across the edges. You can fill it with what ever product works for you, as long as it can't wick moisture upwards. If you don't backfill it I think you will get movement over time and your silicone will fail.
@@bigpermsgarage6290 any suggestion on a product?
Hi, did you use greenboard drywall for your shower wall? Thank you
Yes I did. I rolled a waterproof membrane over it.
No problems with the wall adhering to the redgard?
No issue at all, still holding up great.
What is the red water proofing product you used? Thanks
It's called red guard.
How many cans of adhesive glue did you use?
I don't remember exactly. I think I bought 6 but only used 4.
Did you use backer board?
I used green board, water resistant drywall/substrate followed by the water proofing membrane Red guard. This along with any silicone required should be more than sufficient. I usually use backer board and redguard with tile applications.
Has anyone installed this over tile surface? A smooth 12x24 size tile with no mosiacs
I haven't personally seen it. I would imagine that it's possible, maybe not manufacturer suggested. People are installing tile over tile so using a good bonding agent will probably give the same results.
Any questions or comments feel free to voice them.
What construction adhesive do you recommend. I see that you used the LocTite Power Grab. I have used that product in the past for a totally different project and was very disappointed in the adhesion results. When I called, the support line, they said to use Construction Grade Silicon? I am not seeing that as an adhesive verses being a sealer. I am leaning toward the Gorilla Glue, Heavy Duty Constructive Adhesive "Ultimate All Surface" but this is a big decision and I don't want to mess it up.
@kraftcop the lock tite was a special tub and shower surround adhesive. Gorilla glue is good as well, or liquid nails has one. It's solid as a rock, no issues.
Not a fan of the fisheye lens that you used on the camera. Everything looks distorted.😊
@Dave Schaub it's a normal go pro camera. I haven't heard any other complaints. Thanks for showing your displeasure in my fancy camera equipment on a channel that doesn't monetize and only is here to help others.
Did you use joint compound on the greenboard?...getting mixed information on that...some say redgard won't stick to it at all and some say as long as the wall has been thoroughly cleaned of dust that it does just fine
Thanks for posting! did you lay the drywall over the shower flange or how did you do the transition?
I ran my greenboard slightly above the raised lip. I used silicone to seal any gap and rolled the red guard over it after it had cured. Just make sure to tape the pan when putting on the red guard on, it will save you a headache. If you have large gaps I have heard of people using great stuff and putting red guard over that. Your panels will run down to the pan and you caulk the edges there.
@@bigpermsgarage6290 Thanks for the reply! If you stopped the drywall right above the pan lip didn't you have a gap between the pan and the panel since the drywall is 1/2 inch and the pan lip is an 1/8 or 1/4 inch?
The 1/2 green board sits just about on top of that flange. The substrate/drywall should never enter the pan. If there are any gaps I run silicone and redguard liquid membrane.
really ryobi ? lol
Haven't failed me yet!