The battery problem is easy to fix, the mistake happens when the battery cables are removed in the usual way, unlike many vehicles Honda have circuitry in the negative battery cable which trips the measurement of voltage to the regulator, this is how it works, when the car is new the alternator feeds full power to the battery, as the battery ages over the years that circuitry feeds higher voltage to the battery to compensate, when the battery is replaced for a new one the circuitry needs to be reset or the battery will be over charged and fail, the other important thing to note is, any time the battery cables are unhooked you first need to feed them 12 volts from another battery before removing the cables, otherwise various computers in the system will malfunction, if you have read this you have just learned something that is not known or taught to the mechanics who will charge you without even knowing what the problem is, your welcome.
Positive to positive, negative to negative, careful not to let the connections touch anything metal. after they're hooked up your safe to remove one or both cables and the system remains charged. @@maxclemons2565
Rotor warping was serious problem for me living in hilly Western Pennsylvania. I always used aftermarket rotors and brakes. Last time I changed them I paid the price for genuine Honda rotors and brakes. They have been great for the past two years! It was worth the money.
Our 2011 has 295 k runs good, but front suspension is worn out and costly to replace since don’t have a lift available would have to take to a shop and not wanting to put that much in it as needs tires and due for timing belt think will look for another around 50 k miles
My 15 odyssey has over 350,000 km. Transmission has a slight vibration and was told it does that in eco mode. Still drives very smoothly. Rotors definitely an issue. Winter cold starts if i drive from a cold start Transmission jerks then fades when warmed up. So i drive very slowly if i have to drive off immediately but will warm it up first before driving when i can. Everything else its a work horse and i love this minivan. Stay on top of maintenance and you will have little issues to none.
Our 15 odyssey has had a leaking spool valve, destroying our alternator I think in 2022. The dealership rep said it happened to his parent’s odyssey too! and now the electrical is spasming again and it won’t start- some sort of key recognition error . Also in the past, the doors sometimes wouldn’t close when it’s below freezing. I’ll not buy a Honda ever again.
Seems to me, this vehicle is good for a competent self maintainer. Mine has over 225k miles. Just did the timing belt and water pump. Alternator died over a year ago. Suspect the spool valve leak issue. Just replaced the gasket. Hopefully it's fixed for now. New shocks and struts. Rotors have been troublesome, but i just put on some crossdrilled and slotted rotors. We'll see how they hold up. Working on it isn't bad. Posts are reasonably priced and easy to find.
hello, how is been since you make the updates in the van? I was offer a 2015 with 217k miles for desert price, and the guy replaced the alternator and gasket. I was wondering why? it is a vey basic car, nothing luxurious.
@@moigonli9834it has been very reliable. 245k miles. However, it seems the spool valve may be leaking again. I'll likely just buy another gasket kit. I have replaced the lower control arms and idle arm ends. Easy job. I'm thinking about replacing the front and rear motor mounts, but I'm feeling lazy lately.
Rotor warping is real. I have experienced it myself. Honda warranty covered the first but I had to replace the rotors the second time. If you ask me, I am still one happy customer.
I had the steering wheel 'death wobble' caused by warped rotors. And/or broken drive shafts/half shafts. Common issue on the forums. Replaced both and that solved the problem. Honda did upgrade the front rotors to have vented hats.
I own a 2014 since new. Now has 150k miles. Maybe I’ve just been lucky but other than normal maintenance, I haven’t had any issues with this car. Oil change every 5k, transmission fluid drain and fill every 30k. Had to replace two engine mounts. Biggest expense was the timing job done at the dealer for about $1100 USD. Also AC went out and cost me $1000 to fix at dealer too. Gas mileage could be better though. I average about 15 mpg so it’s like a V8 truck in gas.
Doing a 3 liter flush 4 times does help if the transmission feels like its slipping ,drain transmission fluid as much as comes out plug the drain and top up with the same amount of transmission fluid as taken out then drive the vehicle through all gears maybe a 5 min drive then repeat drain and fill process 3 more times ,with each fill we found our van ran better and better and the fuel efficiency went back to normal. Definitely recommend simple to do at home yourself .biggest thing is to make a funnel long enough to reach to fill it back up easily remided by getting a length of hose that fits over your funnel spout and into the dip stick found near the front right hand side of the engine when standing in front of the vehicle.
I think that the 1972 Ford van that I had is still running the original auto trans and it didn't have a repetitive re-placing of the oil. Oh yeah and no paint peeling.
5:54 delayed engagement - I have a 2019 and it is absolutely horrendous. I've realized that it only happens when you accelerate and then let off the accelerator and immediately try to accelerate again
Same issue with our 2019 with the ZF 9 speed tranny. You'd think with such a reproducible issue, they'd be able to update the computer to compensate but apparently that's not worth the time and effort on Honda's part.
I have a cranking sound coming from my dashboard. Started off as chirping, then i to a crank. Got the timing and serpentine belts changed. Thought it went away but alas, the dreaded cranking sound has returned. Any ideas?
I have a 2011 odyssey. Bought it at 60k now at 121k. Changed timing belt and water pump and other belts at 98k and did lower control arm at the same time. Changed both axles at 85k because boots were torn changed starter at 110k because i thought it was bad but it was just a bad battery. Changed pads and rotors at 80k Now im gonna change spark plug at 121k Everything was still OEM. So its a great van overall.
I currently own a 2000. I got it in 2021 with only 54k I am seeing the same issues continue in these vans for many years, it's somewhat disturbing. I'm looking for another van, I dont think it will be an odyssey.
I have a 2016 and nothing major. I’ve replaced: front and rear brakes, installed a vcm tuner to get rid of the spark plug fouling issues, one sliding door cable and some other basic maintenance but it’s been a good van.
The original issue was the fluid getting too hot and wearing down prematurely. Change the fluid every 30,000 miles. Also I believe there is a transmission software update that can be done through Honda that helps with the issue.
Just purchased a 2012 with 100k miles -Power Doors suck -cats went out (pain in the but to replace and it had 3) -3 spark plugs are difficult to swap. Honda placing the engine sideways doesn’t help.
I have a 2018 Odyssey that has a much worse maintenance history to date (70,000 miles) than my 2003 VW Jetta TDI (200,000 miles) or my 1997 Dodge 2500 diesel 4x4 (300,000). We've had rear door problems, the trans mission often does a down shift when accelerating down hill, the rotors have warped causing shaking when brakes are applied, we have a hole in the back bumper from backing slightly into a bush, some delay when accelerating from dead stop. All in all it is beyond doubt the worst car I've ever owned.
Im on 2014 and its garbage. engine mounts are shot for the second time. Doors are failing. Im on my third timing belt and this last one snapped 2 miles max from my house and straight killed my engine. The one prior thank god it gave me another year and about 20k miles before it failed. The one prior was normal 100k timjng belt change.....
I recently had a battery issue. Thankfully my roommate was able to jumpstart my car but the battery itself was not old nor did I notice any warning lights days prior. I'm hoping that a simple battery fix would solve this issue. Simple, albeit expensive
Oh my Gooood! This is a disaster! Sounds like you just throw away your money by buying Honda Odyssey! I had 1997 Honda Odyssey back in the days, never had such problems. drove up to 240k miles. I could drive more, but upgraded to 2000 Toyota Sienna. It has now 247k. there is no engine troubles, AC is still original and blows cold.
so I've had to fix my rotors twice on my 2018 odyssey, the doors have on and off issues, my LKAS camera has now failed.... this thing is a piece of garbage and Honda needs to fix their problems. The Honda service centers also act like this is all news to them when if you go online (and here) it is clearly not an isolated incident... really pisses me off.
Their manual transmissions are generally good, but many of their automatic transmissions made in the last 20+ years don't hold up well, especially their V6 transmissions. But to be fair, if everyone drove and maintained their cars like they should, there would definitely be way less problems across the board.
@@averyalexander2303 Two different transmission shops (owned Dodge trucks) told me the same thing years ago. The gear selections on automatic transmissions are there for a reason. Depending on road conditions, speed and load, manually dropping into a lower gear can greatly reduce heat build up. Constantly shifting up and down with an unlocked torque converter is the issue. This takes EFFORT though.
Top 1 amd 2 problems should be: 1. cvt valve spring fails and causes rattle for the first 5 minutes after cold stat after van has been sitting overnight. Huge problem tiny little spring that could've been made thicker for no $ at all. Eventually leads to total engine loss due to no oil at top of motor for these 5 minutes every single day. 2. Timming chain and pulleys are a bi*ch to remove and replace while motor is in engine bay. Regular people don't have the skill to do the job. Mechanics charge out the a*s for the full Timming chain service making it stupid to do it on a vehicle that isn't worth that much at all by that mileage. Many Mechanics won't warranty the timing chain service unless you replace you them replace the cvt valve entirely and the valve cover and gasket and all the other gaskets and stuff. Just be ready to spend $5k for this big job on a $10k vehicle shortly after you reach 100k miles.
What in the world are you talking about? I had a timing chain/ water pump job done just after 100,000 miles at the dealership and it cost me a little over $1000 about two years ago. Not sure where you’re getting $5000 from.
The battery problem is easy to fix, the mistake happens when the battery cables are removed in the usual way, unlike many vehicles Honda have circuitry in the negative battery cable which trips the measurement of voltage to the regulator, this is how it works, when the car is new the alternator feeds full power to the battery, as the battery ages over the years that circuitry feeds higher voltage to the battery to compensate, when the battery is replaced for a new one the circuitry needs to be reset or the battery will be over charged and fail, the other important thing to note is, any time the battery cables are unhooked you first need to feed them 12 volts from another battery before removing the cables, otherwise various computers in the system will malfunction, if you have read this you have just learned something that is not known or taught to the mechanics who will charge you without even knowing what the problem is, your welcome.
How do you feed the cables 12 v from a deprecate battery
*seperate
Positive to positive, negative to negative, careful not to let the connections touch anything metal. after they're hooked up your safe to remove one or both cables and the system remains charged. @@maxclemons2565
I have a 10x aa battery holder wired to alligator clips. I use rechargeable batteries so voltage is just right.
Man this sounds a little complicated why is it this way
Rotor warping was serious problem for me living in hilly Western Pennsylvania. I always used aftermarket rotors and brakes. Last time I changed them I paid the price for genuine Honda rotors and brakes. They have been great for the past two years! It was worth the money.
2 years? How Manny miles would be more helpful.
@@rolandjacques649 Sure. 22-24 thousand in those two years.
that's total for the two years.
@@TomHollis-y6o Thanks for the info. im hoping to get 40k + miles before warping
I have a 2011 Honda Odyssey, owned since new, and havent experienced these problems.
i have a used 2011 too. I absolutely love it. I have a family of 5 so this van gives us plenty of room
My mom owns 2011 and learned how to drive on it, never experienced these.
Our 2011 has 295 k runs good, but front suspension is worn out and costly to replace since don’t have a lift available would have to take to a shop and not wanting to put that much in it as needs tires and due for timing belt think will look for another around 50 k miles
@@gregz4249 so 295k is the max
@@Jamin15k nah, mine is at 325,000km
My 15 odyssey has over 350,000 km. Transmission has a slight vibration and was told it does that in eco mode. Still drives very smoothly. Rotors definitely an issue.
Winter cold starts if i drive from a cold start Transmission jerks then fades when warmed up. So i drive very slowly if i have to drive off immediately but will warm it up first before driving when i can.
Everything else its a work horse and i love this minivan.
Stay on top of maintenance and you will have little issues to none.
slight vibration thats torque converter problem.
Definitely better than the following model that came out 2018
Our 15 odyssey has had a leaking spool valve, destroying our alternator I think in 2022. The dealership rep said it happened to his parent’s odyssey too! and now the electrical is spasming again and it won’t start- some sort of key recognition error . Also in the past, the doors sometimes wouldn’t close when it’s below freezing. I’ll not buy a Honda ever again.
Change transmission fluid and add vcm muzzler and eco shudder will be gone
Get vcm muzzler to disable vcm/eco
You can eliminate the piston ring issue by shutting down the VCM. Replace the coil pack and plug and use fuel cleaner.
How did you shut down the vcm?
@@josephgreen9011 vcm muffler
@@josephgreen9011 Get a VCMTuner II
@josephgreen9011 look up vcm muzzler ii
@@josephgreen9011product called VCM muzzler. Worth the money!
Seems to me, this vehicle is good for a competent self maintainer.
Mine has over 225k miles. Just did the timing belt and water pump.
Alternator died over a year ago. Suspect the spool valve leak issue. Just replaced the gasket. Hopefully it's fixed for now.
New shocks and struts.
Rotors have been troublesome, but i just put on some crossdrilled and slotted rotors. We'll see how they hold up.
Working on it isn't bad. Posts are reasonably priced and easy to find.
hello, how is been since you make the updates in the van? I was offer a 2015 with 217k miles for desert price, and the guy replaced the alternator and gasket. I was wondering why? it is a vey basic car, nothing luxurious.
@@moigonli9834it has been very reliable. 245k miles. However, it seems the spool valve may be leaking again. I'll likely just buy another gasket kit.
I have replaced the lower control arms and idle arm ends. Easy job.
I'm thinking about replacing the front and rear motor mounts, but I'm feeling lazy lately.
Rotor warping is real. I have experienced it myself. Honda warranty covered the first but I had to replace the rotors the second time. If you ask me, I am still one happy customer.
I read that engine braking with the paddles takes care of that problem avoiding over use of the brakes
I had the steering wheel 'death wobble' caused by warped rotors. And/or broken drive shafts/half shafts. Common issue on the forums. Replaced both and that solved the problem.
Honda did upgrade the front rotors to have vented hats.
I own a 2014 since new. Now has 150k miles. Maybe I’ve just been lucky but other than normal maintenance, I haven’t had any issues with this car. Oil change every 5k, transmission fluid drain and fill every 30k. Had to replace two engine mounts. Biggest expense was the timing job done at the dealer for about $1100 USD. Also AC went out and cost me $1000 to fix at dealer too. Gas mileage could be better though. I average about 15 mpg so it’s like a V8 truck in gas.
Did you install that vcm muzzler tool?
Doing a 3 liter flush 4 times does help if the transmission feels like its slipping ,drain transmission fluid as much as comes out plug the drain and top up with the same amount of transmission fluid as taken out then drive the vehicle through all gears maybe a 5 min drive then repeat drain and fill process 3 more times ,with each fill we found our van ran better and better and the fuel efficiency went back to normal. Definitely recommend simple to do at home yourself .biggest thing is to make a funnel long enough to reach to fill it back up easily remided by getting a length of hose that fits over your funnel spout and into the dip stick found near the front right hand side of the engine when standing in front of the vehicle.
I hear that helps if your trans is jittering on certain years . what year is yours?
Pretty sure its a 4 lt flush 3x. Have done this about 7x in 2 odysseys.
I think that the 1972 Ford van that I had is still running the original auto trans and it didn't have a repetitive re-placing of the oil. Oh yeah and no paint peeling.
5:54 delayed engagement - I have a 2019 and it is absolutely horrendous. I've realized that it only happens when you accelerate and then let off the accelerator and immediately try to accelerate again
Same issue with our 2019 with the ZF 9 speed tranny. You'd think with such a reproducible issue, they'd be able to update the computer to compensate but apparently that's not worth the time and effort on Honda's part.
Replace rotors with performance rotors
100% this
Yep I got some Centric cryo blanks up front. No more wobble.
Could the quality issues be due to being assembled in the USA rather than in Japan?
Don’t forget water getting inside the van and soaking the floor mats and damaging the electronics
I wish I had seen this video before I purchased the 2011 model
What’s wrong with that year???
Our 2011 has 295 k miles nothing major, our third Honda, we had 1991 Accord, 2000 Odyssey went over 300 k miles
I have a cranking sound coming from my dashboard. Started off as chirping, then i to a crank. Got the timing and serpentine belts changed. Thought it went away but alas, the dreaded cranking sound has returned. Any ideas?
I have a 2014 White Odyssey bought it new and the paint peeled across the gate just the same in this video.
Now I know it’s not my alternator. Thank you
spool valve leaking which damage the alternator
I have a 2011 odyssey. Bought it at 60k now at 121k.
Changed timing belt and water pump and other belts at 98k and did lower control arm at the same time.
Changed both axles at 85k because boots were torn
changed starter at 110k because i thought it was bad but it was just a bad battery.
Changed pads and rotors at 80k
Now im gonna change spark plug at 121k
Everything was still OEM. So its a great van overall.
How are the coils? I am at 170 still haven’t replaced just my spark plugs
@rfavela8907 don't need to replace til it breaks. I'm still using my old ones. It should last almost a lifetime. It's like $60/70 each
that's too bad i was looking at a 2016 Honda Odyssey Touring i hope they fix it before i buy it. the 2016 Honda Odyssey is my dream car :(
why specifically the 2016?
Idk it just is
I currently own a 2000.
I got it in 2021 with only 54k
I am seeing the same issues continue in these vans for many years, it's somewhat disturbing. I'm looking for another van, I dont think it will be an odyssey.
Always Toyota
Wish I knew this before I got a 2016(used). Has been a money pit. I'm way upside down.
What kind of problems are you having? I’m in the market for a 2016 Touring Elite ..
I have a 2016 and nothing major. I’ve replaced:
front and rear brakes, installed a vcm tuner to get rid of the spark plug fouling issues, one sliding door cable and some other basic maintenance but it’s been a good van.
Thank you Sir, very informative video
What was the cause of the transmission problem
The original issue was the fluid getting too hot and wearing down prematurely. Change the fluid every 30,000 miles. Also I believe there is a transmission software update that can be done through Honda that helps with the issue.
Lovd the odyssey!
Just purchased a 2012 with 100k miles
-Power Doors suck
-cats went out (pain in the but to replace and it had 3)
-3 spark plugs are difficult to swap. Honda placing the engine sideways doesn’t help.
Thank you for the information. Just what I needed!
So same problems they had with the 2nd gen they also have with the 4th gen? Unreal
I have a 2018 Odyssey that has a much worse maintenance history to date (70,000 miles) than my 2003 VW Jetta TDI (200,000 miles) or my 1997 Dodge 2500 diesel 4x4 (300,000). We've had rear door problems, the trans mission often does a down shift when accelerating down hill, the rotors have warped causing shaking when brakes are applied, we have a hole in the back bumper from backing slightly into a bush, some delay when accelerating from dead stop. All in all it is beyond doubt the worst car I've ever owned.
That happened to me with my odyssey 10 times I had a 2017 Odyssey Touring now I have a pilot
Im on 2014 and its garbage. engine mounts are shot for the second time. Doors are failing. Im on my third timing belt and this last one snapped 2 miles max from my house and straight killed my engine. The one prior thank god it gave me another year and about 20k miles before it failed. The one prior was normal 100k timjng belt change.....
Thinking about getting a used 2014 model. Bad idea?
Good luck finding rear springs shits been on back order
I recently had a battery issue. Thankfully my roommate was able to jumpstart my car but the battery itself was not old nor did I notice any warning lights days prior. I'm hoping that a simple battery fix would solve this issue. Simple, albeit expensive
Did you fix it?
Oh my Gooood! This is a disaster! Sounds like you just throw away your money by buying Honda Odyssey! I had 1997 Honda Odyssey back in the days, never had such problems. drove up to 240k miles. I could drive more, but upgraded to 2000 Toyota Sienna. It has now 247k. there is no engine troubles, AC is still original and blows cold.
so I've had to fix my rotors twice on my 2018 odyssey, the doors have on and off issues, my LKAS camera has now failed.... this thing is a piece of garbage and Honda needs to fix their problems. The Honda service centers also act like this is all news to them when if you go online (and here) it is clearly not an isolated incident... really pisses me off.
you are the best.
There is no transmission technology in Honda....
Their manual transmissions are generally good, but many of their automatic transmissions made in the last 20+ years don't hold up well, especially their V6 transmissions. But to be fair, if everyone drove and maintained their cars like they should, there would definitely be way less problems across the board.
@@averyalexander2303 Two different transmission shops (owned Dodge trucks) told me the same thing years ago. The gear selections on automatic transmissions are there for a reason. Depending on road conditions, speed and load, manually dropping into a lower gear can greatly reduce heat build up. Constantly shifting up and down with an unlocked torque converter is the issue. This takes EFFORT though.
Honda in general has lousy paint.
yeah, I always notice the crazing in their clear coat in older models. My friends 2011 Odyssey already has it.
Top 1 amd 2 problems should be: 1. cvt valve spring fails and causes rattle for the first 5 minutes after cold stat after van has been sitting overnight. Huge problem tiny little spring that could've been made thicker for no $ at all. Eventually leads to total engine loss due to no oil at top of motor for these 5 minutes every single day.
2. Timming chain and pulleys are a bi*ch to remove and replace while motor is in engine bay. Regular people don't have the skill to do the job. Mechanics charge out the a*s for the full Timming chain service making it stupid to do it on a vehicle that isn't worth that much at all by that mileage. Many Mechanics won't warranty the timing chain service unless you replace you them replace the cvt valve entirely and the valve cover and gasket and all the other gaskets and stuff. Just be ready to spend $5k for this big job on a $10k vehicle shortly after you reach 100k miles.
What in the world are you talking about? I had a timing chain/ water pump job done just after 100,000 miles at the dealership and it cost me a little over $1000 about two years ago. Not sure where you’re getting $5000 from.
Thank you for good information.