@@mjyanimations1062 I agree. But I feel I've seend two types where voltage is constant and you can change the current and vice versa.. May be he's using the one where it has 250mA - 300mA Constant Current and voltage can be altered.
Hi, my microscope led is this exact model. I burnt out the original circuit board because I plugged a 12 V wall charger instead of the recommend 5 V. So my question is can I use this led with a buck converter to allow a normal generic 12v to power it? Also need a dimmer switch attached to control brightness. Does anyone know how to go about this ?
Don't use a standard buck converter, use one with current limiting. You can generally find them by searching 3w led drivers or constant current buck converters. Dimming is more difficult though. If you use an adjustable buck converter with current limiting (that has one potentiometer for the voltage and another for the current limit), you can modify it by adding a third potentiometer in series with the current limiting potentiometer. The device should then be dimmable with a wide input voltage. Don't use a regular buck converter like the onein the video, as it doesn't have current limiting. LEDs are very sensitive to even the smallest voltage increase beyond the forward voltage so driving it directly will severely reduce the life span.
@@hari_sn5331 I do not recommend it. The AMS1117 is a constant voltage regulator, and it will likely overdrive your led. Also it's a linear regulator which is quite inefficient under high loads and might overheat.
Depends on how much current you are pushing through it. At 2.9 volts, that thing is using about 150 to 200 mA. That was his point about making sure that the LED was not getting hot. Normally a 1 Watt LED has about 350 mA. And A 3 Watt LED has about 1 Amp. If you want more light, you will need a heatsink. And if you push it hard, a heat sink with a fan.
a driver or resistor is mandatory. Power leds (all leds) require constant current, otherwise any small change in the voltage can increase the current exponentially and kill the led.
@@johnmoor8839 those specific 3w ones run at 700ma. I bought them 0.5 dollar a piece from an led supplier. Haven't tested those cheap ones on ebay though. maybe I should.
200-450 °C, зависит от того, какой припой вы используете. Средние температуры плавления Припой 60/40: 230-270 °C Бессвинцовый припой: 300-370 °C 200-450 °C, depends on what solder you use. Average melting points 60/40 solder: 230-270°C Lead free: 300-370°C
What plant is that at the end of the Video?
this is not hiw you drive power leds. They need constant current and sufficient cooling
That thing in the middle is the constant current driver
@@Pratte0112 It doesn't look like it. It has a single potentiometer so it's just one of those standard low cost constant voltage buck converters.
@@mjyanimations1062 I agree. But I feel I've seend two types where voltage is constant and you can change the current and vice versa.. May be he's using the one where it has 250mA - 300mA Constant Current and voltage can be altered.
Why you are not showing your subs?
BTW i like your video:)♥️
What type of board that is please...
google for "mp1584en dc-dc buck converter"
it's a buck converter, but don't use that. use a constant current driver
So super nice 👍😍😍💖💯
What about curent limiting?
Hi, my microscope led is this exact model. I burnt out the original circuit board because I plugged a 12 V wall charger instead of the recommend 5 V. So my question is can I use this led with a buck converter to allow a normal generic 12v to power it? Also need a dimmer switch attached to control brightness. Does anyone know how to go about this ?
Don't use a standard buck converter, use one with current limiting. You can generally find them by searching 3w led drivers or constant current buck converters. Dimming is more difficult though. If you use an adjustable buck converter with current limiting (that has one potentiometer for the voltage and another for the current limit), you can modify it by adding a third potentiometer in series with the current limiting potentiometer. The device should then be dimmable with a wide input voltage. Don't use a regular buck converter like the onein the video, as it doesn't have current limiting. LEDs are very sensitive to even the smallest voltage increase beyond the forward voltage so driving it directly will severely reduce the life span.
@@mjyanimations1062 can i use ams1117 voltage regulator in 1w led on a 3.7v battery ???
@@hari_sn5331 I do not recommend it. The AMS1117 is a constant voltage regulator, and it will likely overdrive your led. Also it's a linear regulator which is quite inefficient under high loads and might overheat.
Helpful suggestion: seek a new solder tip.
no info on circuit board used.?????
Ye wala light ko 18 light ko chalana h hm ko kaise hoga
Nice information with good mood
you can also use old mobile charger with 2 or 3 diode in Series for perfect glow.
Great idea, friend
É verdade
If we want to connect it to 6v 3W solar panel then
try connecting it directly instead of the usb port in the video, friend
As u said to connect directly but what about the solar power connection
Mandatory to use heat sink?
Depends on how much current you are pushing through it. At 2.9 volts, that thing is using about 150 to 200 mA. That was his point about making sure that the LED was not getting hot. Normally a 1 Watt LED has about 350 mA. And A 3 Watt LED has about 1 Amp. If you want more light, you will need a heatsink. And if you push it hard, a heat sink with a fan.
a driver or resistor is mandatory. Power leds (all leds) require constant current, otherwise any small change in the voltage can increase the current exponentially and kill the led.
Step down??
Dc dc canvater mp 1576 kitne ka ayega
Does any of it get hot?
yes. it needs a heatsink for extended run and definitely needs a driveror at least a resistor. This video got it all wrong
100 ma ?
700ma
@@mjyanimations1062 That much, can't get mine anywhere near that. They are ebay rubish ones though.
@@johnmoor8839 those specific 3w ones run at 700ma. I bought them 0.5 dollar a piece from an led supplier. Haven't tested those cheap ones on ebay though. maybe I should.
Пасиба!
SMD 3W working to 3.2 - 3.6 BRO
Какой C° у паяльник ?
200-450 °C, зависит от того, какой припой вы используете.
Средние температуры плавления
Припой 60/40: 230-270 °C
Бессвинцовый припой: 300-370 °C
200-450 °C, depends on what solder you use.
Average melting points
60/40 solder: 230-270°C
Lead free: 300-370°C
Can we not use DC 5V To 3.3V Step-Down Power Supply Module AMS1117-3.3 LDO 800MA ? This can provide 3.7 volt at 800mA controlled output.
I use 1n4007 dioda to make 3.7v for smd max 3.6v 🙋♂️
More flux! :)
Nyc
you don't need voltage circuit, just use a resistor with led.
Agree
What value? I used 1000 and i get a very dim light
@@kalendaryo9864 for 5v power source you need 10 ohm resistor
@@andiwardana847 how about 100 ohms?
@@andiwardana847 my issue about the led with 5v source is that when the led turned on it is so hot that it melts the plastic that holds the led
Very nice!
no it's not, it's full of misinformations. This is not how power leds should be driven. They need constant current and cooling heatsink.
Mack metal detector please
Well done
Где охлаждение .жесткость.