I work at shipyard as a underwater welder. Been daily wearing a two tone daytona for the last few years. All the scratches, little dings, etc i find beautiful. It tells a story and that the watch lived a life alongside its owner. My late fathers patek however gets worn only on family involved holidays, could never be able to replace that thing.
I also work at a shipyard as an underwater welder. I also been daily wearing a two tone Daytona for the last few years also. All the scratches, little dings, etc I also,find beautiful.
Great video. I have a vintage Seiko automatic that I wore for years and then it stopped. I took it the the little watch shop in Hobart that I have been using for years, anyway they said that they didn't have parts to fix it but if I left it with them because they said a "parts watch may come in. About 6 years went by and I had pretty much forgotten about it then I got a call from the shop saying that they had fixed it. I was so pleased after all that time. Quite a funny story. So yes old watches can be hard to have fixed.
Love your last point there - watches you’re afraid to wear. I bought a watch out of my price bracket (a speedy) for my 50th, and I thought long and hard before buying it about whether it was a watch I could wear in normal everyday life, because if not, I wasn’t going to buy it. In the end, I decided it’s insured, I don’t care about wear and tear, it’s fine. But it was a big decision in buying that watch.
This is a classic example of why I enjoy watching your videos. You speak the truth. You unearth thoughts we’ve all had, but haven’t put into words. You clear the air by giving meaning to our emotions. Thank you for making our watch collecting more enjoyable.
Great video, Teddy…thank you. The only thing I would add is in your 5th category…watched that you’re afraid to own…I have a vintage Omega that has a Radium dial and I’m now paranoid about wearing it as often as I did before I bought a Geiger Counter😢
My King Seiko was a nightmare to repair and refurbished as the parts are near impossible to replace. It took me 5 years to get it to finally work! I was lucky enough to locate an eBay seller who sold me all his spare parts on the 1960s King Seiko that I own. Technically my King Seiko is now serviceable and will outlive me!😊
@@boatdetective Even for quartz Seiko of that vintage (the famous 9983 movement ones) is very hard to service. It took me a couple months to source the crystal alone.
My favorite watches are the simplest ones. Pilot’s watches or Field watches are my go to types. They’re essentially the same thing for the most part. Simplicity is key for me. I don’t need all those extra features that I’ll never use. A nice clean dial with a date window that’s easy to read at a glance is what I prefer.
Yes, that's me too, totally. Sinn and Damasko are situated just right from a quality/price perspective, and I wouldn't ever really be willing to spend more on something I'm actually intending to wear day-to-day.
I mean you wouldn’t ever use the annual calendar feature on a watch? I glance down at my seamaster and can see the exact date each day of the month and it sets itself by month. Pretty amazing
At last. A video that adresses the elephants in the room . Maintenance costs, the fear of scratching your nice watch, etc. This video should be mandatory for every potential luxury watch owner. One last thing I would add: the hurdle of servicing a watch when you need to send it in another country. This is especially true for small markets, such as in Canada. Local customs can be a real pain, charging you unjustified import taxes when you send your watch for repairs, and getting refunded is a challenge. Great video. Thanks!
Can't agree more, bought a Zenith and the service centre in Canada was beyond terrible. They actually made my watch going from having a bit of condensation to not working at all, after 2 services within warranty. I then have to service it in Asia and paid a hefty price for it because warranty has now expired. They took no responsibility despite me complaining twice.
I appreciate the honesty in this video. If you are afraid to wear the watch, in most cases you should probably sell it. The one exception is my all original mint condition SKX. I may not wear it often, but seeing it in my watch box gives me joy.
Great video. I am a recent buyer of a Rolex GMT Master II (16713.) I told the seller that this will NOT sit in a box and just be worn on special occasions. Naturally, I take it off if I'm doing something that could damage the watch, but I would have done that with a $100 watch too. As mine is 19 years old, I was aware that a service is in my future, but without the history on this watch, I don't know when it will be. I did have the watch checked out on a time graph machine and it's in good shape. My wife has a 1981 DateJust that used to belong to her mother. In the past 25 years we've put $2,500 in it for repairs/service (most recent service was done this month and cost $650.) The watch is likely worth about twice what we've paid to keep it working and looking great.
I think people underestimate how often mechanical watches even from the top brands break and need to be repaired or at least serviced. I know that was me. Had my Breitling Premiere mainspring break after only 14 months which was luckily still under warranty and had my Nomos Club Sport 42 crown completely pull out only 1 week after it’s 2 year warranty ended. Once that happened and I asked around I found it’s common in even Patek, AP, Lange, Rolex, etc… it’s definitely made me rethink owning complicated movements from luxury brands.
Funny this talk about mechanical and quartz. Like you bought a Breitiling chrono, after 10 months was on vacation at South of France..Provence..with the watch . One day went to dive with friends, not even 10 meters. Back on our beach when i look to see the time saw the water. Was cover by the warrant but all paper was in L Angeles at my house. Once back got all papers box, got my car and drove to their official branch. Got there throw all over the counter and said, is all there for you people fix. Now in 1996 bought a Colt quartz, is a diving watch. Surfed, sail, dove and until today never had a single problem. Change the battery four times in 30 years, runs just like when I bought and still looks cool
“Watch poor” is a fantastic way to describe when people overbuy and can’t bear to actually wear their watch for fear of something happening. Love it. Great stuff.
It actually happened to me for my very first mechanical watch. Hence why I sold it rather quickly...(for a loss ofc :/ ). Now I am no longer afraid to wear watches, even though I try to be cautious and not put a dent in them, and I'm also accepting the fact that I would lose money should I sell them. Not everyone can buy Rolex/AP/PP...ahaha
On the other hand, and point well-taken, I would rather be watch poor than car poor. I’d rather be admiring a nice pre-owned or new Patek, Audemars, or A. Lange & Sohne on my wrist than having a $100K car in my garage for all the reasons Teddy described. A car comes with more baggage, burden and worries than any watch I can think of, while a watch will be well-cared for much more easily. On my wrist, I can get ROI out of it every time glance down or need to know what time it is. In short I can fall just as in love with a watch as any car, and I will admire a fine watch for its engineering and craftsmanship far more than a car. But that’s just me.
A lot of good points here. I wanted a vintage but got scared of the hidden repair costs so I decided to buy a reissue (Zenith El Primero A384 revival) so that it has the vintage look but without the usual surprise repairs that come with old watches 😇
Microbrands almost always have off-the-shelf mechanisms inside, so service is rarely a problem. Crystals, straps, crowns, and often even the hands, are likewise standard items, not custom-made.
Teddy, I agree and the same thing applies to owning a vehicle. Out here in the Monterey and Silicon Valley area, I see more people owning fancy cars but can't afford to fix the damage to the car or keep it running correctly.
I bought a Speedmaster for my 50th after wanting one for decades. - turns out I didn’t actually like its greyness, but it took a long time for me to admit it wasn’t the right watch for me and to sell it. Still looking for ‘the one’ that’s in my price range, could be an IWC Pilot, but I’m enjoying the hunt.
I was also on the hunt for a speedmaster too: and I found the right, busy dail just meh after a while. I also felt it is a very popular first “serious watch” most people get - one indicator is: there’s a lot for sale in the secondary market. I then looked into a seamaster; one with timezone function because I travel a lot but still wasn’t convinced. I eventually decided to get an IWC pilot; their new 41mm chronos with sunburst dails look great in person!
If you have seagull chronograph, instead of servising it, you can buy new movement and replace it... I love those movements (st19) they are so beautiful
Excellent discussion Teddy! I completely agree with your analysis about servicing, especially for watches from secondary markets. Most people don't take servicing cost into consideration when buying watches. Some brands such as Patek, Rolex, GS, and Piaget are quite flexible and does not have strict criteria about previous servicing history. Some can be quite troublesome... A few years ago, I bought an A Lange and Söhne watch from an online auction that cost about 26K. The watch looks sexy AF and in very good conditions, but when I bought in the watch to the boutique for servicing, I ended up having to pay about 5K+ since they found a fingerprint inside the movement, meaning that it has been "interfered with by a third party" and so the normal repair/servicing rates do not apply and I had to pay for mandatory service to change the main parts.
Great points. Replaced my beloved GMT Master II with a Farer lander IV because I was worried about wearing it around London. Fortunately, I really like my Farer even more!!!
Thanks for the explanation on the vintage topic Teddy. Been wearing a vintage 1966 Omega Constellation as a dress watch when I had the original bead of rice bracelet repaired last September. I had to adjust the date. Took me 30min of winding it forward to get to the correct date. Now I know the watch doesn't have quick date. It's a great watch with a good history: my granddad was a navel officer until his early navy retirement and was asked to become captain on the big yacht of a Dutch wealthy indutrial. When he retired the guy gave his this watch and in my teen years I took notice of the watch. My dad got the watch when my granddad passed away and my dad gave it to me when he passed away, including ownership and guarantee papers and the broken bracelet. So it's a true family watch. Been getting many nice responses from people at work when I wear it. Accuracy and power reserve is pretty good for an almost 60 year old watch.
All great points to consider. Many people don't look at anything but the initial price of the watch, and can get bitten by service costs. As for vintage, I have quite a few watches from the '70s and '80s. Most of them were
This is why i decided to buy a quartz annual calendar from Frederique Constant instead of a mechanical one. I have 18 watches i rotate (half of them are quartz) and i dread setting the time day date month every freaking rotation to the point that I avoid some of my mechanical watches if I could. You can say what you want about quartz watches but my life doesn't revolve around watches 100%, I have better shit to do than setting watches and taking them to maintenance all the time :D
yeah... I'm a big digital watch fan myself, so quartz are my preferred when going for a classic look, but if doing automatic, the most simple function is prefered as I'm only likely to wear it for a few hours, and setting the day and date will waste my time.
It takes literally a few seconds to set the time. A minute to set the day/date. I don’t find that particularly onerous or “dreadful”. Everyone’s mileage varies though.
I live in an apartment complex and I have a neighbor who has a Porsche but doesn’t have a garage to park it in. That’s how I feel sometimes when I see someone with a watch brand that I know is beyond their means.
there are two types of people in this world. The first, own a good house, but their cars are old and beat to shit. The second, own a good car, but their home is old and beat to shit. In other words, it just depends on the person and what they prefer; so don't feel the need to raise your chin up at someone who just wants to buy something they enjoy
I think you did a great job with this video. I am also into vintage cameras, and it's very much the same world as vintage watches. Its fun at first, but they are quite delicate and very expensive to repair. I recently sold all my vintage Leica because they kept having issues and had to be babied all the time. It made me realize that I don't think I can handle a vintage watch right now haha.
How are you having issues with a Leica? I own a single stroke M3 from 1963 for 15+ years. I’ve shot thousands of frames through it, and invested about $500 over the whole time (2x CLA). Runs smooth and perfect.
Was in the business and was able to acquire a few rare/ high end pieces at incredibly low prices in the early mid 2000’s. The last “suck to own pieces” I unloaded was a Patek and 1680 Red Sub that I bought for under $5k. Both were “servicing” problems and I decided to offload them and roll the proceeds into contemporary Daytonas, lifting my collection out of the “STO” category. Relieved. Great video, Teddy. Totally related to it.
I love the directness of the message--"You do not own it, it owns you." This should be part of every rational buying decision. "Will I own this thing or will it own me?"
I’ve got in my watch box, all mechanical watches. Orient, Deep Blue and Seiko as daily beaters. Longines Spirit Chrono and Hydroconquest, Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot, Tudor BB GMT and a 1977 Rolex OysterDate. Lastly I have an all original 1973 Seiko “Pogue.” (My father’s first pilots watch.) The Seiko Pogue and Rolex OysterDate are cool to me, because I take a couple minutes each morning and wind them both to keep time and date so I’m not way behind if I let them sit for days or weeks. The Seiko does have a quick set date, but, to wind it you have to hold and rotate your hand. It is a true automatic movement. It does not wind at the crown. I could keep it in a winder, but I don’t have one. The Rolex doesn’t have quick set date and is also a true mechanical movement. So that one can take some winds setting the date, if you let it get behind. I enjoy keeping up with the watches and they all get worn. But of all my watches; it seems the Tudor is the most um controversial maybe. When I come across a horological snob, the first thing I hear is usually, “oh that’s a poor man’s Rolex.” Or the “Rolex wannabe!” I wouldn’t say those reactions would cause me to say owning that watch sucks, I’d say it brings out the suck in other people and there are many!
I've just experienced Point #5. I owned a Rolex 15505 for about 30 years. Bought when I was young and loved it, but as time went on I wore it less and less until it got to the point I just didn't like it any more; it's an all gold shelled affair, very ostentatious, and was not like me at all as a person. It was tough to part with it as it's been in my life for so long but I recently sold it at auction and feel so much better for doing so. The only down side is that model unfortunately does not go for Sub prices!
@@eyeheartsushi2212exactly, like most things we own in life we outgrow. The beauty of being a watch enthusiast also comes with the pleasure of seeing them live on. Pass it on to someone dear or sell it/trade it to a passionate person.
Great and honest video. I’ve owned too many overpriced watches to count and don’t miss any of them. I’ve settled down or up into reasonably priced quality watches. One is one of your recent recommendations, thanks! I recall a great story. A pro athlete goes to an expensive jewelry store and likes a $27,000 watch. He has to call his business manager for approval. His manager ask him what time does the watch say it is? Athlete says 3:15, manager says mine says the same thing and cost $25. ‘Get out of the store now!’
Keith Earls when starting out in Munster Rugby bought a Range Rover the car of his dreams. Took it over to his mother and father’s house and ended up trading that for a Toyota Avensis after a conversation with his father.
14:32 - - Enjoyed the video and like all the categories mentioned; especially the last one. When it comes to a mortgage, I will pre-qualify myself before being pre-qualified by a lender. I add monthly expenses that a lender won't. Thus, knowing where I want to be even though the lender is much higher. This is the personal financial philosophy I've used since buying my first 🏡 back in the 80's: 1) Mortgage payment cannot exceed 20% of net income. 2) Car payment cannot exceed 30% of my monthly mortgage payment. 3) Normal watch price cannot exceed the equivalent of 2 car loan payments. 4) Special (high value) watch price cannot exceed the equivalent of 2 mortgage payments. 5) If I buy a watch using the "mortgage payment" rule; I have to sell a watch (or watches) to cover at least half the cost of the new one.
Great video! I completely agree. I also like your point about conditions being personal to each of us. I own watches that check many of your boxes but treasure them dearly. Some of my watches are from my dad (1960s) and my grandad (pre-1940). They were tools back then and not bought for status or anything. It shows now: they are small and look dated. They are not worth the money I spent servicing them, they are delicate (waterproof? 😂), I am absolutely terrified to wear them (I’d be crushed if I lose them, if they break, I’d just fix them again), and sometimes they stop so not all that reliable. But I love them. They are mine, and they will go to my kids. They talk about our history. Thanks for the video!
I love the Rolex GMT Master II but beside it is hard to get, Point 5 would apply 100% to me. So i wear my Steinhart every day and feel very good with it. 😁
As someone who collects vintage watches I can say I think I have put my watchmaker's kids through college. They break down a lot and not many people can fix them. In regards to the person who is afraid to wear their watch I had a buddy who had a royal oak and he would put a sweatband over it while wearing a suit at work. It always cracked me up lol
People getting into watch collecting should watch this video and others you have produced. When vintage watches need service you hope the parts are available to complete the service. When not you are stuck with a pretty cool watch that does not work. Spot on video as usual Teddy!
Great advice. I have a 2023 Submariner and a 2023 Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch in my collection along with a bunch of less costly watches that I just like. In the just like camp are three Vostoks. I’d add buy what you like and wear what makes you happy.
Teddy, what an absolutely fantastic video! Love that unlike other watch channels you always promote enjoying a watch as a personal thing than collecting obscenely expensive watches.
Wise words from a still relatively young man who in a small way is hurting his business. I have a lot of fun with the 7 or 8 quartz watches that I can rotate thru. I am old enough to realize that I am too much of a mid-westerner to pay ~$400 to service a ~$1500 watch 5 years down the road. Thanks for the UA-cam!
Yes sir….the cost for a Seamaster Chrono service is minimum $750 a pop. The good news is they don’t require a ton of servicing. But even if only once every 10 years, it adds up. I bought mine 23 years ago…2 services cost what that watch RETAILED for originally. 😂 great point Teddy.
Agreed. My Rolex 16613 ("Sultan" c. 1998) cost me about $1100 to service a few years ago. Had it done by a Bucherer boutique...which sent it on to Rolex Geneva for the service/repair. I used to wear that watch daily during the first decade of ownership. Now, only on special occasions. I own too many other good "tool" watches for daily use...mostly automatics with ETA 2824, Valjoux 7750, or NH35/36 movements. These days, the Rolex has appreciated so much in value...I tend to worry about my arm...especially when on international travel. Same for a Glashutte Senator...special occasions where a nice dress watch makes sense. Else, they're spending time in the safe. As for quality...most of the tool watches that I own are both dependable and stylish.
The servicing considerations, delicate nature and irreplaceability are among the reasons why I prefer contemporary homages to vintage watches, rather than vintage models themselves. You get all the heritage and old charm of vintage watches, with the technological improvements and dependability of modern watches.
Just finished watching 5 watches that suck to own while on my cycling trainer. Teddy, I am 70 YO and you are wise beyond your years. I am an amateur watch repair enthusiast and have collected quite a few vintage watches because I find them unbelievably cheap and antiques malls. And I am talking some NICE names. Right now on my wrist is a vintage Gruen automatic for which I paid less $5. It looks spectacular and runs great--now... :) But everything you say in your reviews is SPOT ON! You never come off like an arrogant watch snob; just matter of fact, and here's my opinion. Keep up the great work! (BTW, 3 weeks ago hitting some some church "Christmas bazaars" there was a tupper ware bowl with maybe 7 watches in it with a sign saying "For Free." I figured they would abll be very crappy quartz/fashion watches and they were--except the last one. Vintage Longines ladies watch, mechanical and 21 jewels. I end up giving a lot of my "learning watches" away. :)
Great article…. So many excellent thoughts on the reality of watch ownership. Now I have retired and no longer wear a watch to the office I certainly think twice about what watch from my collection I wear just going to the shops with the rise in watch crime…. It has taken the edge off my enjoyment from wearing some of my higher end watches. On the flip side I have found pleasure in wearing lower end watches that I had previously not considered, and actually found great enjoyment in wearing, classic example is my Casio Mission Impossible watch. Thank you for such a thought provoking piece.
I bought a Seiko on sale for $275 and sadly dropped it taking it off, and broke the crystal glass after only like a month of ownership. Called Seiko and it was going to be over $300 for the service & fix... INSANE. Ended up going with a local jeweler and they charged for $75 for the replacement crystal and labor.
Thank you for the video. As someone who is new to the watch game, this was definitely insightful. I’m glad I controlled my initial impulses and researched more before spending my money lol had I not, I would’ve been stuck with watches that are now at the bottom of my wish lists. Great work!
Here’s another tip: create a list of rules you want to oblige to. Then whenever you see a watch, you check if it ticks all the boxes and then you decide to add it to your wish list or not.
That list is ever changing. You will see more watches, learn about new brands, and that list will grow and change. That's the problem. Definitely do your homework.
Build a relationship with a good watchmaker. Most of these issues won’t be a problem. I love my watchmaker. He can solve any problem, and gives me fair prices. It also helps to learn how to make small repairs, or to swap out movements. I repair and mod watches. I take care of most of my issues, but when I can’t, I have my trusty watchmaker.
For the affordable watches with expensive complications to service, people don't service the movement but just change it for a new one. a SeaGull ST1901 chronograph movement is around 100$ for a new one and any repair shop can swap the movement in your watch for the new one for the tourbillon it's the ST8230 but it's a little harder to find, i couldn't find a replacement for sale, but there are watches using the movement that can go under 250$ new for the whole watch. so at this point just buy a new watch for 250$ and you either keep it or take the movement out of it to replace yours it's the same for watches using Seiko NH35 family of movements, nobody services a Seiko NH35 when the movement itself is worth 30$ and you can just swap it for a new one.
I bought a mechanical Oris watch with their Calibre 400 movement. Sole complication is a countdown bezel. 10-year warranty and 10-year service intervals. Reputable Swiss brand established in 1904. No brainer.
My Omega AT Small Seconds was one watch I was “afraid to wear” then like most watches I own, got my first ding and scratch and now I wear it far more often than I initially did when I bought it 6 months ago.
Yep I can attest to this! I have owned my AT since 2019, initially babied it but eventually got its fair share of slight knocks etc.. Less precious about it now, but still take the time to be aware it’s on my wrist
I ding my watch and scratch them all the time, i try my best not too but it happen naturally. Funny thing js that I remember majority of those accident kind of fun.
Ha! I've got a few of these, and I'm happy. Vintage: I've gotten vintage watches, dusty dirty, sitting in pawn shops and thrift stores for so little money the servicing/refurbishing costs have me remaining on the upside. Vintage is its own genre and very fun. Learn learn learn about vintage, buy right. I sent a late 60's Omega to Switzerland for refurbishment, $1200 dollars plus shipping, watch cost, $25 dollars in a thrift store. Watch worth overs around the $2000 dollar range. I have a Rolex Day Date from the late 70's in yellow gold that I only wear at family events where I'm not traveling. A beloved uncle left it to me. I would not buy one, for the reason stated in the video however, and I don't wear it in public. I have a Chinese tourbillon I bought new in Germany for 400 EU that costs me $500 US to service. I don't mind as I am not willing to pay for a "name brand" tourbillon. I have a Tag Heuer Monaco whose chrono gets crunchy. I've not used that feature since the last service. Love the Monaco tho... Anyway. Fun video. If anyone is interested in vintage, it's really fun hunting for them at great prices. Thrift shops, garage sales, etc.
This is full of great takes. I feel a lot of this as I have a few watches that I dread picking up and wearing. I find myself looking towards my higher end quartz or no date autos since they just require so much less to put on and go
Vostoks are a very fair example here. I don’t discourage people from getting them, but I do always tell them the negatives so that they can have realistic expectations and just be an overall informed consumer about it. I like mine, but i don’t look forward to getting them fixed. But it’ll be a labor of love.
This is a pretty good list. I'll add one more type - the watch that you just don't like but has sentimental value. I have a few watches in my collection that I will probably never sell, but I will also never wear, because I just don't like how they look on me, or I've moved on to other styles and brands.
But that situation is different. The sentimental value is more than the monetary value. A reluctance to wear an heirloom piece is perfectly understandable, indeed some might say preferable because it can never be replaced. The big issue is were someone buys a Grail watch and it never leaves the watch box.
I have viewed many hosts presenting their opinions related to the watch industry, but I enjoy your vides above all others, Teddy. If and when I decide to make such a purchase, I will surely contact you.
From all my watches the one I wear most is the gshock because it's give me true freedom : freedom to move and do whatever I need and want to do, it's always "atomic clock synchronized", never breaks, sun powered and it's gorgeous. Our watches should not be a reflection of our bank account but of what makes us happy
about 40 years ago, I bought a Rolex Submariner for $750. I finally sold it because of the servicing costs. About every 3 to 5 years I had to spend about $700 for a tune-up.
When you are deep into a subject, study the material, investigate the history, and have a passion for the matter, it shows. Teddy's analysis and list of 5 types of watches that suck to own is pristine in my humble opinion. His understanding of watches, how it impacts the owner/collector, is squarely on point. Quite well done.
Great information about owning watches. I only buy watches less than a thousand dollars so I never worry about damage or loss but if someone is a collector of expensive luxury watches then I can understand that person being more careful. Look forward to the next video and enjoy the rest of the holiday weekend.
The service price includes replacing the movement for a basic NH series Seiko, Seagull, and even ETA clones. When I service my own watches, that's what I do. An Omega or Rolex is a completely different convo. I've been limiting new purchases to watches that are user serviceable *for me*. I'm also seeing more value in quartz watches, especially solar power.
Quartz movements can tick for decades without issues, and most of them aren't serviceable anyway, so you only need to change batteries every 2-10 years (or even more rarely if it's solar).
I started with inexperienced watches and gradually moved “upstream.” I own a WWII ORD watch from my dad and a Hamilton 992B railroad watch-I’ll wear them but not often. I kept my two vintage watches but sold all my expensive watches. I wear a slightly modded SNK809 most of the time. I’ve become attached to the SNK809. Usually you develop a deep love for a beater because it’s with you most of the time. I still follow what goes on in the watch community, but it’s like watching a football game without your team playing-emotionless and stress free.
Great advice! My "watch I'm afraid to wear" is, surprisingly, an IWC. I learned their movement is less friendly to day to day life and I guess, as I was told "don't pull the crown like pulling the pin of a grenade." And, I always advise for the interesting off-brands, buy based on the look, the feel of it, since it may wind of being a dead movement that can look nice in your collection, but not worth trying to figure out how to get it repaired. I have a few dead watches in my collection that deliver on the "wow, that is awesome looking!" factor even if it doesn't actually run any more.
There is a 6th category that wasn't mentioned. Watches with modular movements. Instead of being repaired, these watches are fit with a whole new movement and you pay much more for it. I used to have a speedy that was like that, and as soon as I found out it had a modular movement, I sold it.
Good points. I do own a vintage watch that I wear frequently-a mid-80’s Tudor Day Date. It was a gift from my parents when I graduated vet school and I found it at Tourneau in NYC. It gets sent back to Rolex for servicing about every 10 years and the service usually costs more than the watch did when it was purchased. But it has great sentimental value, I love seeing it on my wrist, and I will never part with it.
The "afraid to wear it" is definitely an issue, especially in the US these days (I live in San Francisco area) - which is also an issue with my sports cars that I only drive them in the morning during weekend. I can only wear my white gold or platinum watches in Japan or other countries that are safe, or at venue that are well guarded (e.g. someone's wedding). They are enjoyable to wear especially that heft and being much more shiny than stainless steel ones. Anyway... I wear the lesser known/flashy ones like the Explorer or Explorer II or Hublot carbotech or Sekio Superior especially during summer. In winter I can hide them under the long sleeves. For areas I know that might get me into trouble I rock my titanium G-Shock. It's just messed up how unsafe the US is these days.
One of my goal watches was an Omega Moonphase. But after hearing about the service cost of chronographs, I’m now hesitant… Is it worth it? How often does it need servicing?
Teddy, this is an insightful video. Many watch buyers (and owners) seem to be ignorant about the cost of maintaining your watch. It's funny how we spend a bundle looking after our car and seem clueless that a watch sometimes needs the same thing! Great and ESSENTIAL video.❤
As someone who collects only vintage watches I completely agree with your assessment of having to baby the watches all time, service is more frequent and costs a lot, but i just can’t relate to contemporary watches… so its either this or no watches at all. I guess vintage or contemporary it all boils down to how much money one can afford to put into this hobby and what you are looking to get out of it that matters. As long as one stays in those limits and you feel good abt yourself its all good!
I mean, did you buy the Sub to stand out and flex on people? Or did you buy the watch as a symbol and/or reward to yourself for you to personally enjoy?
Hi Teddy, All good points as always. On point 5 - losing any material item won't change anyones world as you put it. You will still live and breathe. However, if you've overspent on the watch and have too much money tied up in the watch, then it will hurt if it burns as you put it. Personally, I've never understood people buying a watch they are afraid to wear. What on earth is the point!? If you've bought it for investment purposes then you need a better accountant.
Wise advice. That’s why I sold my submariner. I rarely wore it since I retired during the wu flu. The few places I would go to were either remote or near a downtown area. Anymore, both are somewhat dicey.
Love the new Marathon quartz! My support to Teddy entertaining me. Marithon was selling at 20% off so that $100 was a Teddy donation. I love my Invicta COSC that cost $700. Ceramic quatrz under $400! Dad left me a Patec super thin 18k manual and it put $$ in my account!
Thank you Ted. There's a MrWonderful who recently started a watch insurance business just so you can wear a watch and not be afraid of losing it in use or travel.
yes, but have you ever tried to (a) lodge a theft with the police and (b) lodge a claim with an insurer ... it doesn't take just 5 minutes. It's the exact opposite of waiting for the courier when you've bought a new watch. Often the insurer will wait a length of time just in case it's swept up within greater events. Donate a Casio (which is probably the most accurate GMT you'll ever own) when you're at risk.
I recently downsized my collection into far less watches but watches of higher price point and quality. Servicing costs definitely played into this decision. I want to focus on my favorite watches I can own for life and put the time, effort, and money into these watches only
Love your good Ole "midwestern" common sense approach and advise. Keep 'em coming, it's helped me shape good collecting. (My favorite Teddyism is "nobody cared about your damn watch"😂cracks me up every time!
One would think a quartz watch would be fairly trouble free but my Breitling Explorer II costs $600-800 for the factory to service and replace the battery that always seems to come with a new set of hands and crystal. I haven't sent my Tudor or Rolex watches off for non-warranty service yet.
Another category is a watch you might be embarrassed to wear in some situations, like to work. I’ve been eyeing a Breguet to add to my collection for a while, and while I could wear it on evenings/weekends my sense is it’d be a little too over the top to show up at work with a $30k watch on my wrist…
The "afraid to wear" aspect is something I can relate to completely. A number of years ago I purchased a Tag Heuer whilst on holiday in the Caribbean. Not their most popular model but expensive enough. But I became paranoid about putting it on my wrist! So it spent 20 years in its box without seeing daylight.
Picked up a AMZWATCH's watch as my first watch last month and I’m absolutely in love with it. Perfect size, looks elegant, very comfortable. Now my only problem is holding off from buying more watches so quickly!
Yeah, I've felt that part about vintage watches. Overall, around 70% of my watch collection are vintage pieces. So far there wasn't much of a problem to service most of them, but one particular is a real heart breaker to me. It's small, rectangular Junghans from early 50s. Because of it, I fell in love with rectangular case design and that's why it's a very important part of my collection. Unfortunetly in the past the mainspring was replaced with one that is way to short and because of that the movement can't keep accurate time at all (around +2 h per day). So far I've taken it to 6 different watchmakers and not any one of them could repair it because they coludn't get the orginal hairspring nor another movement. That's why I wear it very rarely and more as jewelry piece than a watch.
Another aspect of this and certainly one I’ve personally struggled with is buying a watch for the lifestyle I wish I was living instead of the one I am living. I have several dress watches,and ones that have moon phase and other complications that are wonderful,however I rarely wear them because they would be destroyed by the life I’m living. My office/cubical is a Marina I’m more likely to be using an impact driver than a laptop or underwater freeing up a prop or trying to keep a sinking boat from going down for the count.
Dude, so true!! I have been looking at two watches that fit a lifestyle that I am not living. I am most days in jeans and a t-shirt, so I do not need a six thousand dollar automatic dress watch, much less both of the ones I am drooling over at the moment, haha! Maybe I will go for a dive watch on a rubber strap. Hmmm, gotta go shop online to do some more dreaming and drooling!
I own a few watches and I am one of those who shy away from complications because of the reason you mentioned. I try to wear most of my watches except for the fragile 1968 omega de ville because like what you said vintage pieces are harder to service
3:40 That's the beauty of all these vintage homages floating around out there. If you own a vintage Capt Willard for example, simply get one of the better homage-versions of it and wear that one in situations where water resistance or higher risk of damage are an issue.
Great video! A lot of truth there. Have to agree on most of it. I work in agriculture, farm. Wear a GS quartz, all my Seiko SLA divers, my omega railmaster to work. I have dressier GS, and others I don't want to beat up at work. Dust and dirt, bang them up. Have a nice watch, that for me was very expensive. Wear it at home, and out places. I do worry about rip offs, but it is very understated. No flash.
I work at shipyard as a underwater welder. Been daily wearing a two tone daytona for the last few years. All the scratches, little dings, etc i find beautiful. It tells a story and that the watch lived a life alongside its owner. My late fathers patek however gets worn only on family involved holidays, could never be able to replace that thing.
That's cool
That's awesome, cheers to you!
If you work as an underwater welder you can probably afford to daily a Daytona 😂
Bi-metal watches are crap
I also work at a shipyard as an underwater welder. I also been daily wearing a two tone Daytona for the last few years also. All the scratches, little dings, etc I also,find beautiful.
Watches should have battle scars and a history. That’s what makes heirloom pieces so great. The personality and stories that watch lived through
Great video. I have a vintage Seiko automatic that I wore for years and then it stopped. I took it the the little watch shop in Hobart that I have been using for years, anyway they said that they didn't have parts to fix it but if I left it with them because they said a "parts watch may come in. About 6 years went by and I had pretty much forgotten about it then I got a call from the shop saying that they had fixed it. I was so pleased after all that time. Quite a funny story. So yes old watches can be hard to have fixed.
Love your last point there - watches you’re afraid to wear. I bought a watch out of my price bracket (a speedy) for my 50th, and I thought long and hard before buying it about whether it was a watch I could wear in normal everyday life, because if not, I wasn’t going to buy it. In the end, I decided it’s insured, I don’t care about wear and tear, it’s fine. But it was a big decision in buying that watch.
Insure it, then don't worry about it.
This is a classic example of why I enjoy watching your videos. You speak the truth. You unearth thoughts we’ve all had, but haven’t put into words. You clear the air by giving meaning to our emotions. Thank you for making our watch collecting more enjoyable.
I’m not a watch collector, but I like Teddy’s honesty and transparency here. There’s no aire of “you have to become one of us” or whatnot.
You forgot the most important challenge in owning crazy expensive watches. And that would be that Margot Robbie thinks you’re a “douche flex.”😘
Great video, Teddy…thank you. The only thing I would add is in your 5th category…watched that you’re afraid to own…I have a vintage Omega that has a Radium dial and I’m now paranoid about wearing it as often as I did before I bought a Geiger Counter😢
Great comments usual Daryl. You are my hero
@@snakesonn3590 Why thank you!
“You don’t own the watch, the watch owns you!” How true! Thanks TB. That sentence summarizes the whole video.
No truer words were ever spoken...
That way with a lot of things.
This actually holds true for all of your stuff.
My King Seiko was a nightmare to repair and refurbished as the parts are near impossible to replace. It took me 5 years to get it to finally work! I was lucky enough to locate an eBay seller who sold me all his spare parts on the 1960s King Seiko that I own. Technically my King Seiko is now serviceable and will outlive me!😊
Shame you need a donor parts watch ⌚
The same happened to me! Parts for vintage Seiko can be a challenge. The 27J King Seiko movement was not that common.
I hope it was worth it and it does not end up in a dump somewhere.
@@boatdetective Even for quartz Seiko of that vintage (the famous 9983 movement ones) is very hard to service. It took me a couple months to source the crystal alone.
Jesus Christ, these companies are selling you a hobby. I know someone who bought a Lambo and was a nightmare to repair.
My favorite watches are the simplest ones. Pilot’s watches or Field watches are my go to types. They’re essentially the same thing for the most part. Simplicity is key for me. I don’t need all those extra features that I’ll never use. A nice clean dial with a date window that’s easy to read at a glance is what I prefer.
Yes, that's me too, totally. Sinn and Damasko are situated just right from a quality/price perspective, and I wouldn't ever really be willing to spend more on something I'm actually intending to wear day-to-day.
Right. Simplicity is king. The more complications the more it gets complicated to read the dial…
Diver’s watches as well
I mean you wouldn’t ever use the annual calendar feature on a watch? I glance down at my seamaster and can see the exact date each day of the month and it sets itself by month. Pretty amazing
My Hamilton field watch is a favorite. Retired Military here.
At last. A video that adresses the elephants in the room . Maintenance costs, the fear of scratching your nice watch, etc.
This video should be mandatory for every potential luxury watch owner.
One last thing I would add: the hurdle of servicing a watch when you need to send it in another country. This is especially true for small markets, such as in Canada. Local customs can be a real pain, charging you unjustified import taxes when you send your watch for repairs, and getting refunded is a challenge.
Great video. Thanks!
Can't agree more, bought a Zenith and the service centre in Canada was beyond terrible. They actually made my watch going from having a bit of condensation to not working at all, after 2 services within warranty. I then have to service it in Asia and paid a hefty price for it because warranty has now expired. They took no responsibility despite me complaining twice.
I appreciate the honesty in this video. If you are afraid to wear the watch, in most cases you should probably sell it. The one exception is my all original mint condition SKX. I may not wear it often, but seeing it in my watch box gives me joy.
Great video. I am a recent buyer of a Rolex GMT Master II (16713.) I told the seller that this will NOT sit in a box and just be worn on special occasions. Naturally, I take it off if I'm doing something that could damage the watch, but I would have done that with a $100 watch too. As mine is 19 years old, I was aware that a service is in my future, but without the history on this watch, I don't know when it will be. I did have the watch checked out on a time graph machine and it's in good shape. My wife has a 1981 DateJust that used to belong to her mother. In the past 25 years we've put $2,500 in it for repairs/service (most recent service was done this month and cost $650.) The watch is likely worth about twice what we've paid to keep it working and looking great.
I think people underestimate how often mechanical watches even from the top brands break and need to be repaired or at least serviced. I know that was me.
Had my Breitling Premiere mainspring break after only 14 months which was luckily still under warranty and had my Nomos Club Sport 42 crown completely pull out only 1 week after it’s 2 year warranty ended.
Once that happened and I asked around I found it’s common in even Patek, AP, Lange, Rolex, etc… it’s definitely made me rethink owning complicated movements from luxury brands.
Funny this talk about mechanical and quartz. Like you bought a Breitiling chrono, after 10 months was on vacation at South of France..Provence..with the watch . One day went to dive with friends, not even 10 meters. Back on our beach when i look to see the time saw the water. Was cover by the warrant but all paper was in L Angeles at my house. Once back got all papers box, got my car and drove to their official branch. Got there throw all over the counter and said, is all there for you people fix. Now in 1996 bought a Colt quartz, is a diving watch. Surfed, sail, dove and until today never had a single problem. Change the battery four times in 30 years, runs just like when I bought and still looks cool
Did you put it in a glass of water when u got back to where u were staying!?
@@phillipsugwasis this a common tip to prevent seawater damage?
“Watch poor” is a fantastic way to describe when people overbuy and can’t bear to actually wear their watch for fear of something happening. Love it.
Great stuff.
Drive it like ya stole it.
Absolutamente de acuerdo en todos los puntos.
It actually happened to me for my very first mechanical watch. Hence why I sold it rather quickly...(for a loss ofc :/ ). Now I am no longer afraid to wear watches, even though I try to be cautious and not put a dent in them, and I'm also accepting the fact that I would lose money should I sell them. Not everyone can buy Rolex/AP/PP...ahaha
That's why I don't buy ultra expensive cars.
On the other hand, and point well-taken, I would rather be watch poor than car poor. I’d rather be admiring a nice pre-owned or new Patek, Audemars, or A. Lange & Sohne on my wrist than having a $100K car in my garage for all the reasons Teddy described. A car comes with more baggage, burden and worries than any watch I can think of, while a watch will be well-cared for much more easily. On my wrist, I can get ROI out of it every time glance down or need to know what time it is. In short I can fall just as in love with a watch as any car, and I will admire a fine watch for its engineering and craftsmanship far more than a car. But that’s just me.
A lot of good points here. I wanted a vintage but got scared of the hidden repair costs so I decided to buy a reissue (Zenith El Primero A384 revival) so that it has the vintage look but without the usual surprise repairs that come with old watches 😇
Buy a cheap old seiko diver.
I would just buy an orient at that point @@WhiteSandsMbuna
I love that you kept this so respectful to all brands. Great job Teddy.
Totally agree with the “house poor” point. It’s like buying a vintage Bentley for $50K and then not being able to afford the maintenance.
I can smell the mineral oil in this post.
I can smell the mineral oil in this post.
Teddy forgot, "The watch your wife can't know you bought."
What does the wife have to do with it?
Or the watch you can never around your wife, because your girlfriend bought it for you?
Or the junk watch your wife bought and you don’t want to wear it!!!
@@Schwaapilzlmaoooo
That’s a scary thing
Microbrands almost always have off-the-shelf mechanisms inside, so service is rarely a problem. Crystals, straps, crowns, and often even the hands, are likewise standard items, not custom-made.
Teddy, I agree and the same thing applies to owning a vehicle. Out here in the Monterey and Silicon Valley area, I see more people owning fancy cars but can't afford to fix the damage to the car or keep it running correctly.
I bought a Speedmaster for my 50th after wanting one for decades. - turns out I didn’t actually like its greyness, but it took a long time for me to admit it wasn’t the right watch for me and to sell it. Still looking for ‘the one’ that’s in my price range, could be an IWC Pilot, but I’m enjoying the hunt.
Don't know what you mean about "greyness". I have a Speedmaster as well and it's definitely black.
He might have bought a grey side of the moon speedmaster.
Stowa Flieger is the bees knees design wise
I was also on the hunt for a speedmaster too: and I found the right, busy dail just meh after a while. I also felt it is a very popular first “serious watch” most people get - one indicator is: there’s a lot for sale in the secondary market. I then looked into a seamaster; one with timezone function because I travel a lot but still wasn’t convinced.
I eventually decided to get an IWC pilot; their new 41mm chronos with sunburst dails look great in person!
If you have seagull chronograph, instead of servising it, you can buy new movement and replace it...
I love those movements (st19) they are so beautiful
Excellent discussion Teddy! I completely agree with your analysis about servicing, especially for watches from secondary markets. Most people don't take servicing cost into consideration when buying watches. Some brands such as Patek, Rolex, GS, and Piaget are quite flexible and does not have strict criteria about previous servicing history. Some can be quite troublesome... A few years ago, I bought an A Lange and Söhne watch from an online auction that cost about 26K. The watch looks sexy AF and in very good conditions, but when I bought in the watch to the boutique for servicing, I ended up having to pay about 5K+ since they found a fingerprint inside the movement, meaning that it has been "interfered with by a third party" and so the normal repair/servicing rates do not apply and I had to pay for mandatory service to change the main parts.
Great points. Replaced my beloved GMT Master II with a Farer lander IV because I was worried about wearing it around London. Fortunately, I really like my Farer even more!!!
Thanks for the explanation on the vintage topic Teddy. Been wearing a vintage 1966 Omega Constellation as a dress watch when I had the original bead of rice bracelet repaired last September. I had to adjust the date. Took me 30min of winding it forward to get to the correct date.
Now I know the watch doesn't have quick date.
It's a great watch with a good history: my granddad was a navel officer until his early navy retirement and was asked to become captain on the big yacht of a Dutch wealthy indutrial. When he retired the guy gave his this watch and in my teen years I took notice of the watch.
My dad got the watch when my granddad passed away and my dad gave it to me when he passed away, including ownership and guarantee papers and the broken bracelet. So it's a true family watch.
Been getting many nice responses from people at work when I wear it. Accuracy and power reserve is pretty good for an almost 60 year old watch.
All great points to consider. Many people don't look at anything but the initial price of the watch, and can get bitten by service costs. As for vintage, I have quite a few watches from the '70s and '80s. Most of them were
This is why i decided to buy a quartz annual calendar from Frederique Constant instead of a mechanical one. I have 18 watches i rotate (half of them are quartz) and i dread setting the time day date month every freaking rotation to the point that I avoid some of my mechanical watches if I could. You can say what you want about quartz watches but my life doesn't revolve around watches 100%, I have better shit to do than setting watches and taking them to maintenance all the time :D
LOL
yeah... I'm a big digital watch fan myself, so quartz are my preferred when going for a classic look, but if doing automatic, the most simple function is prefered as I'm only likely to wear it for a few hours, and setting the day and date will waste my time.
Through out my life, I rarely have set the date on my watch. If I did, I would forget about it for months. @@Uncle_Dave_Dave
Hahaha….okay, whatever.
It takes literally a few seconds to set the time. A minute to set the day/date. I don’t find that particularly onerous or “dreadful”. Everyone’s mileage varies though.
#5 is the real takeaway from this video. If you can barely afford it, you probably shouldn't buy it.
I live in an apartment complex and I have a neighbor who has a Porsche but doesn’t have a garage to park it in. That’s how I feel sometimes when I see someone with a watch brand that I know is beyond their means.
there are two types of people in this world. The first, own a good house, but their cars are old and beat to shit. The second, own a good car, but their home is old and beat to shit.
In other words, it just depends on the person and what they prefer; so don't feel the need to raise your chin up at someone who just wants to buy something they enjoy
@@wardog5537you forgot the third type of person: the one who owns both a nice car and a nice house.
@@yeedbottomtext7563 *specifically the middle class*
@@yeedbottomtext7563😂😂
@@yeedbottomtext7563you forgot the fourth..
I think you did a great job with this video. I am also into vintage cameras, and it's very much the same world as vintage watches. Its fun at first, but they are quite delicate and very expensive to repair. I recently sold all my vintage Leica because they kept having issues and had to be babied all the time. It made me realize that I don't think I can handle a vintage watch right now haha.
How are you having issues with a Leica? I own a single stroke M3 from 1963 for 15+ years. I’ve shot thousands of frames through it, and invested about $500 over the whole time (2x CLA). Runs smooth and perfect.
Was in the business and was able to acquire a few rare/ high end pieces at incredibly low prices in the early mid 2000’s. The last “suck to own pieces” I unloaded was a Patek and 1680 Red Sub that I bought for under $5k. Both were “servicing” problems and I decided to offload them and roll the proceeds into contemporary Daytonas, lifting my collection out of the “STO” category. Relieved.
Great video, Teddy. Totally related to it.
I love the directness of the message--"You do not own it, it owns you." This should be part of every rational buying decision. "Will I own this thing or will it own me?"
I eat out of dumpsters but I wear a Hublot Big Bang doing it.
😆😆
😂 ‼️
Ive seen you before....hanging around my 4 yard greeny
I’ve got in my watch box, all mechanical watches. Orient, Deep Blue and Seiko as daily beaters. Longines Spirit Chrono and Hydroconquest, Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot, Tudor BB GMT and a 1977 Rolex OysterDate. Lastly I have an all original 1973 Seiko “Pogue.” (My father’s first pilots watch.) The Seiko Pogue and Rolex OysterDate are cool to me, because I take a couple minutes each morning and wind them both to keep time and date so I’m not way behind if I let them sit for days or weeks. The Seiko does have a quick set date, but, to wind it you have to hold and rotate your hand. It is a true automatic movement. It does not wind at the crown. I could keep it in a winder, but I don’t have one. The Rolex doesn’t have quick set date and is also a true mechanical movement. So that one can take some winds setting the date, if you let it get behind. I enjoy keeping up with the watches and they all get worn. But of all my watches; it seems the Tudor is the most um controversial maybe. When I come across a horological snob, the first thing I hear is usually, “oh that’s a poor man’s Rolex.” Or the “Rolex wannabe!” I wouldn’t say those reactions would cause me to say owning that watch sucks, I’d say it brings out the suck in other people and there are many!
I've just experienced Point #5. I owned a Rolex 15505 for about 30 years. Bought when I was young and loved it, but as time went on I wore it less and less until it got to the point I just didn't like it any more; it's an all gold shelled affair, very ostentatious, and was not like me at all as a person. It was tough to part with it as it's been in my life for so long but I recently sold it at auction and feel so much better for doing so. The only down side is that model unfortunately does not go for Sub prices!
You experienced it for 30 years and nothing can take away that from you. That’s all that matters.
@@eyeheartsushi2212exactly, like most things we own in life we outgrow.
The beauty of being a watch enthusiast also comes with the pleasure of seeing them live on.
Pass it on to someone dear or sell it/trade it to a passionate person.
Well said teddy, owning a basic or luxury Mechanical watch, the service cost comes as a nightmare
No it doesn't!
Stick to quartz then.
Great and honest video. I’ve owned too many overpriced watches to count and don’t miss any of them. I’ve settled down or up into reasonably priced quality watches. One is one of your recent recommendations, thanks! I recall a great story. A pro athlete goes to an expensive jewelry store and likes a $27,000 watch. He has to call his business manager for approval. His manager ask him what time does the watch say it is? Athlete says 3:15, manager says mine says the same thing and cost $25. ‘Get out of the store now!’
Keith Earls when starting out in Munster Rugby bought a Range Rover the car of his dreams. Took it over to his mother and father’s house and ended up trading that for a Toyota Avensis after a conversation with his father.
14:32 - - Enjoyed the video and like all the categories mentioned; especially the last one.
When it comes to a mortgage, I will pre-qualify myself before being pre-qualified by a lender. I add monthly expenses that a lender won't. Thus, knowing where I want to be even though the lender is much higher.
This is the personal financial philosophy I've used since buying my first 🏡 back in the 80's:
1) Mortgage payment cannot exceed 20% of net income.
2) Car payment cannot exceed 30% of my monthly mortgage payment.
3) Normal watch price cannot exceed the equivalent of 2 car loan payments.
4) Special (high value) watch price cannot exceed the equivalent of 2 mortgage payments.
5) If I buy a watch using the "mortgage payment" rule; I have to sell a watch (or watches) to cover at least half the cost of the new one.
1. If that was true then London would be a desert 😂
Great video! I completely agree. I also like your point about conditions being personal to each of us. I own watches that check many of your boxes but treasure them dearly.
Some of my watches are from my dad (1960s) and my grandad (pre-1940). They were tools back then and not bought for status or anything. It shows now: they are small and look dated. They are not worth the money I spent servicing them, they are delicate (waterproof? 😂), I am absolutely terrified to wear them (I’d be crushed if I lose them, if they break, I’d just fix them again), and sometimes they stop so not all that reliable.
But I love them. They are mine, and they will go to my kids. They talk about our history.
Thanks for the video!
I love the Rolex GMT Master II but beside it is hard to get, Point 5 would apply 100% to me. So i wear my Steinhart every day and feel very good with it. 😁
Steinhart is garbage my guy. Especially the clasp.
@@MrKacperk 😎👍🏻
@@MrKacperk- You know what they say about opinions.
As someone who collects vintage watches I can say I think I have put my watchmaker's kids through college. They break down a lot and not many people can fix them. In regards to the person who is afraid to wear their watch I had a buddy who had a royal oak and he would put a sweatband over it while wearing a suit at work. It always cracked me up lol
People getting into watch collecting should watch this video and others you have produced. When vintage watches need service you hope the parts are available to complete the service. When not you are stuck with a pretty cool watch that does not work. Spot on video as usual Teddy!
Great advice. I have a 2023 Submariner and a 2023 Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch in my collection along with a bunch of less costly watches that I just like. In the just like camp are three Vostoks. I’d add buy what you like and wear what makes you happy.
Casio avoids all these checks, tis why I proudly and unabashedly wear it.
Teddy, what an absolutely fantastic video! Love that unlike other watch channels you always promote enjoying a watch as a personal thing than collecting obscenely expensive watches.
Wise words from a still relatively young man who in a small way is hurting his business. I have a lot of fun with the 7 or 8 quartz watches that I can rotate thru. I am old enough to realize that I am too much of a mid-westerner to pay ~$400 to service a ~$1500 watch 5 years down the road.
Thanks for the UA-cam!
Yes sir….the cost for a Seamaster Chrono service is minimum $750 a pop. The good news is they don’t require a ton of servicing. But even if only once every 10 years, it adds up. I bought mine 23 years ago…2 services cost what that watch RETAILED for originally. 😂 great point Teddy.
Agreed. My Rolex 16613 ("Sultan" c. 1998) cost me about $1100 to service a few years ago. Had it done by a Bucherer boutique...which sent it on to Rolex Geneva for the service/repair. I used to wear that watch daily during the first decade of ownership. Now, only on special occasions. I own too many other good "tool" watches for daily use...mostly automatics with ETA 2824, Valjoux 7750, or NH35/36 movements. These days, the Rolex has appreciated so much in value...I tend to worry about my arm...especially when on international travel. Same for a Glashutte Senator...special occasions where a nice dress watch makes sense. Else, they're spending time in the safe.
As for quality...most of the tool watches that I own are both dependable and stylish.
The servicing considerations, delicate nature and irreplaceability are among the reasons why I prefer contemporary homages to vintage watches, rather than vintage models themselves. You get all the heritage and old charm of vintage watches, with the technological improvements and dependability of modern watches.
Just finished watching 5 watches that suck to own while on my cycling trainer. Teddy, I am 70 YO and you are wise beyond your years. I am an amateur watch repair enthusiast and have collected quite a few vintage watches because I find them unbelievably cheap and antiques malls. And I am talking some NICE names. Right now on my wrist is a vintage Gruen automatic for which I paid less $5. It looks spectacular and runs great--now... :) But everything you say in your reviews is SPOT ON! You never come off like an arrogant watch snob; just matter of fact, and here's my opinion. Keep up the great work! (BTW, 3 weeks ago hitting some some church "Christmas bazaars" there was a tupper ware bowl with maybe 7 watches in it with a sign saying "For Free." I figured they would abll be very crappy quartz/fashion watches and they were--except the last one. Vintage Longines ladies watch, mechanical and 21 jewels. I end up giving a lot of my "learning watches" away. :)
Great article…. So many excellent thoughts on the reality of watch ownership. Now I have retired and no longer wear a watch to the office I certainly think twice about what watch from my collection I wear just going to the shops with the rise in watch crime…. It has taken the edge off my enjoyment from wearing some of my higher end watches. On the flip side I have found pleasure in wearing lower end watches that I had previously not considered, and actually found great enjoyment in wearing, classic example is my Casio Mission Impossible watch. Thank you for such a thought provoking piece.
The Mission Impossible is dead cool - I love mine 👍
I bought a Seiko on sale for $275 and sadly dropped it taking it off, and broke the crystal glass after only like a month of ownership. Called Seiko and it was going to be over $300 for the service & fix... INSANE. Ended up going with a local jeweler and they charged for $75 for the replacement crystal and labor.
Thank you for the video. As someone who is new to the watch game, this was definitely insightful. I’m glad I controlled my initial impulses and researched more before spending my money lol had I not, I would’ve been stuck with watches that are now at the bottom of my wish lists. Great work!
Here’s another tip: create a list of rules you want to oblige to. Then whenever you see a watch, you check if it ticks all the boxes and then you decide to add it to your wish list or not.
@@boykaunlimitted4514 I appreciate that! That’s a great idea.
That list is ever changing. You will see more watches, learn about new brands, and that list will grow and change. That's the problem. Definitely do your homework.
Build a relationship with a good watchmaker. Most of these issues won’t be a problem. I love my watchmaker. He can solve any problem, and gives me fair prices. It also helps to learn how to make small repairs, or to swap out movements.
I repair and mod watches. I take care of most of my issues, but when I can’t, I have my trusty watchmaker.
For the affordable watches with expensive complications to service, people don't service the movement but just change it for a new one.
a SeaGull ST1901 chronograph movement is around 100$ for a new one and any repair shop can swap the movement in your watch for the new one
for the tourbillon it's the ST8230 but it's a little harder to find, i couldn't find a replacement for sale, but there are watches using the movement that can go under 250$ new for the whole watch. so at this point just buy a new watch for 250$ and you either keep it or take the movement out of it to replace yours
it's the same for watches using Seiko NH35 family of movements, nobody services a Seiko NH35 when the movement itself is worth 30$ and you can just swap it for a new one.
I bought a mechanical Oris watch with their Calibre 400 movement. Sole complication is a countdown bezel. 10-year warranty and 10-year service intervals. Reputable Swiss brand established in 1904. No brainer.
My Omega AT Small Seconds was one watch I was “afraid to wear” then like most watches I own, got my first ding and scratch and now I wear it far more often than I initially did when I bought it 6 months ago.
Yep I can attest to this! I have owned my AT since 2019, initially babied it but eventually got its fair share of slight knocks etc..
Less precious about it now, but still take the time to be aware it’s on my wrist
I ding my watch and scratch them all the time, i try my best not too but it happen naturally. Funny thing js that I remember majority of those accident kind of fun.
Afraid to wear a watch....that's sad.
@@nearlyretired7005 I agree!
Ha! I've got a few of these, and I'm happy. Vintage: I've gotten vintage watches, dusty dirty, sitting in pawn shops and thrift stores for so little money the servicing/refurbishing costs have me remaining on the upside. Vintage is its own genre and very fun. Learn learn learn about vintage, buy right. I sent a late 60's Omega to Switzerland for refurbishment, $1200 dollars plus shipping, watch cost, $25 dollars in a thrift store. Watch worth overs around the $2000 dollar range. I have a Rolex Day Date from the late 70's in yellow gold that I only wear at family events where I'm not traveling. A beloved uncle left it to me. I would not buy one, for the reason stated in the video however, and I don't wear it in public. I have a Chinese tourbillon I bought new in Germany for 400 EU that costs me $500 US to service. I don't mind as I am not willing to pay for a "name brand" tourbillon. I have a Tag Heuer Monaco whose chrono gets crunchy. I've not used that feature since the last service. Love the Monaco tho... Anyway. Fun video. If anyone is interested in vintage, it's really fun hunting for them at great prices. Thrift shops, garage sales, etc.
This is full of great takes. I feel a lot of this as I have a few watches that I dread picking up and wearing. I find myself looking towards my higher end quartz or no date autos since they just require so much less to put on and go
Vostoks are a very fair example here. I don’t discourage people from getting them, but I do always tell them the negatives so that they can have realistic expectations and just be an overall informed consumer about it. I like mine, but i don’t look forward to getting them fixed. But it’ll be a labor of love.
Teddy, so glad you mentioned no quick set date on vintage watches… IT SUUUUUCKS😂
A $20 automatic watch winder is a game changer, my guy. I'd highly recommend.
This is a pretty good list. I'll add one more type - the watch that you just don't like but has sentimental value. I have a few watches in my collection that I will probably never sell, but I will also never wear, because I just don't like how they look on me, or I've moved on to other styles and brands.
Great video.
One more point from me: Watch from your loved ones.
I have my grandpa's GMT and I am so scared to even wear it.
But that situation is different. The sentimental value is more than the monetary value. A reluctance to wear an heirloom piece is perfectly understandable, indeed some might say preferable because it can never be replaced. The big issue is were someone buys a Grail watch and it never leaves the watch box.
I have viewed many hosts presenting their opinions related to the watch industry, but I enjoy your vides above all others, Teddy. If and when I decide to make such a purchase, I will surely contact you.
From all my watches the one I wear most is the gshock because it's give me true freedom : freedom to move and do whatever I need and want to do, it's always "atomic clock synchronized", never breaks, sun powered and it's gorgeous.
Our watches should not be a reflection of our bank account but of what makes us happy
Yep, I agree. I have G-Shock MRG watches that I love to wear during the day. Then Grand Seiko watches for the evenings.
about 40 years ago, I bought a Rolex Submariner for $750. I finally sold it because of the servicing costs. About every 3 to 5 years I had to spend about $700 for a tune-up.
If you had to have it serviced every three years then you had a defective watch,or you have been hyped by Rolex Oh dear!
I didn't have to have it serviced. Somehow the time was inaccurate by 5-10 minutes which prompted sending it to Rolex for service.
When you are deep into a subject, study the material, investigate the history, and have a passion for the matter, it shows. Teddy's analysis and list of 5 types of watches that suck to own is pristine in my humble opinion. His understanding of watches, how it impacts the owner/collector, is squarely on point. Quite well done.
Great information about owning watches. I only buy watches less than a thousand dollars so I never worry about damage or loss but if someone is a collector of expensive luxury watches then I can understand that person being more careful. Look forward to the next video and enjoy the rest of the holiday weekend.
The service price includes replacing the movement for a basic NH series Seiko, Seagull, and even ETA clones. When I service my own watches, that's what I do. An Omega or Rolex is a completely different convo. I've been limiting new purchases to watches that are user serviceable *for me*. I'm also seeing more value in quartz watches, especially solar power.
Quartz movements can tick for decades without issues, and most of them aren't serviceable anyway, so you only need to change batteries every 2-10 years (or even more rarely if it's solar).
@bimotavdue4129 I just changed my second movement in a Seiko Sportura that I have owned for 17 years, so at least mine did.
I started with inexperienced watches and gradually moved “upstream.” I own a WWII ORD watch from my dad and a Hamilton 992B railroad watch-I’ll wear them but not often.
I kept my two vintage watches but sold all my expensive watches. I wear a slightly modded SNK809 most of the time. I’ve become attached to the SNK809. Usually you develop a deep love for a beater because it’s with you most of the time.
I still follow what goes on in the watch community, but it’s like watching a football game without your team playing-emotionless and stress free.
I always appreciate that you regularly encourage people NOT to buy too much watch for their income.
Great advice! My "watch I'm afraid to wear" is, surprisingly, an IWC. I learned their movement is less friendly to day to day life and I guess, as I was told "don't pull the crown like pulling the pin of a grenade." And, I always advise for the interesting off-brands, buy based on the look, the feel of it, since it may wind of being a dead movement that can look nice in your collection, but not worth trying to figure out how to get it repaired. I have a few dead watches in my collection that deliver on the "wow, that is awesome looking!" factor even if it doesn't actually run any more.
There is a 6th category that wasn't mentioned. Watches with modular movements. Instead of being repaired, these watches are fit with a whole new movement and you pay much more for it. I used to have a speedy that was like that, and as soon as I found out it had a modular movement, I sold it.
The speedy reduced? It was on the top of my list and when I found out that modular movements can break easier I stopped liking it
@TheWatchDoggg yes, the omega Co-Axial Chronometer Chronograph 38 mm... avoid those like the plague
@@USASMR-o2c agreed. What a shame
Good points.
I do own a vintage watch that I wear frequently-a mid-80’s Tudor Day Date. It was a gift from my parents when I graduated vet school and I found it at Tourneau in NYC.
It gets sent back to Rolex for servicing about every 10 years and the service usually costs more than the watch did when it was purchased. But it has great sentimental value, I love seeing it on my wrist, and I will never part with it.
The "afraid to wear it" is definitely an issue, especially in the US these days (I live in San Francisco area) - which is also an issue with my sports cars that I only drive them in the morning during weekend. I can only wear my white gold or platinum watches in Japan or other countries that are safe, or at venue that are well guarded (e.g. someone's wedding). They are enjoyable to wear especially that heft and being much more shiny than stainless steel ones. Anyway... I wear the lesser known/flashy ones like the Explorer or Explorer II or Hublot carbotech or Sekio Superior especially during summer. In winter I can hide them under the long sleeves. For areas I know that might get me into trouble I rock my titanium G-Shock. It's just messed up how unsafe the US is these days.
"Afraid" to wear it immediately classifies it as a piece of jewelry
One of my goal watches was an Omega Moonphase. But after hearing about the service cost of chronographs, I’m now hesitant… Is it worth it? How often does it need servicing?
Teddy, this is an insightful video. Many watch buyers (and owners) seem to be ignorant about the cost of maintaining your watch. It's funny how we spend a bundle looking after our car and seem clueless that a watch sometimes needs the same thing! Great and ESSENTIAL video.❤
As someone who collects only vintage watches I completely agree with your assessment of having to baby the watches all time, service is more frequent and costs a lot, but i just can’t relate to contemporary watches… so its either this or no watches at all. I guess vintage or contemporary it all boils down to how much money one can afford to put into this hobby and what you are looking to get out of it that matters. As long as one stays in those limits and you feel good abt yourself its all good!
Sold my Rolex Submariner because everywhere I looked I saw cheap copies being worn. Replaced it with an Omega Seamaster 300 that I really enjoy.
Great choice: your "replacement" is probably the most beautiful diver on today's market
I mean, did you buy the Sub to stand out and flex on people? Or did you buy the watch as a symbol and/or reward to yourself for you to personally enjoy?
Hi Teddy,
All good points as always.
On point 5 - losing any material item won't change anyones world as you put it. You will still live and breathe. However, if you've overspent on the watch and have too much money tied up in the watch, then it will hurt if it burns as you put it.
Personally, I've never understood people buying a watch they are afraid to wear. What on earth is the point!? If you've bought it for investment purposes then you need a better accountant.
Number 5 is an interesting proposition. I can wear my current pieces without much thought, but if I got my grail would I be quite so chill? Not sure.
Wise advice. That’s why I sold my submariner. I rarely wore it since I retired during the wu flu. The few places I would go to were either remote or near a downtown area. Anymore, both are somewhat dicey.
Love the new Marathon quartz! My support to Teddy entertaining me. Marithon was selling at 20% off so that $100 was a Teddy donation. I love my Invicta COSC that cost $700. Ceramic quatrz under $400! Dad left me a Patec super thin 18k manual and it put $$ in my account!
You sold a watch your dad
Passed along to you?
Definitely the best advice, for any wouid be potentially watch collector..
In fact any comsumer item...
Absolutely TJT .. that's top job Ted ..🤘🏼
“You don’t own the watch the watch owns you” Brilliant
Thank you Ted. There's a MrWonderful who recently started a watch insurance business just so you can wear a watch and not be afraid of losing it in use or travel.
yes, but have you ever tried to (a) lodge a theft with the police and (b) lodge a claim with an insurer ... it doesn't take just 5 minutes. It's the exact opposite of waiting for the courier when you've bought a new watch. Often the insurer will wait a length of time just in case it's swept up within greater events.
Donate a Casio (which is probably the most accurate GMT you'll ever own) when you're at risk.
Bottom line: you can never go wrong with a Casio.
I recently downsized my collection into far less watches but watches of higher price point and quality. Servicing costs definitely played into this decision. I want to focus on my favorite watches I can own for life and put the time, effort, and money into these watches only
Love your good Ole "midwestern" common sense approach and advise. Keep 'em coming, it's helped me shape good collecting. (My favorite Teddyism is "nobody cared about your damn watch"😂cracks me up every time!
One would think a quartz watch would be fairly trouble free but my Breitling Explorer II costs $600-800 for the factory to service and replace the battery that always seems to come with a new set of hands and crystal. I haven't sent my Tudor or Rolex watches off for non-warranty service yet.
Correction, it is an Aerospace II. My mind is on a Rolex Explorer II on wait list at dealer along with Daytona, both in stainless white dials.
@@velvetjones1856Breitling service are really expensive .
Setting my longines triple calendar chrono is kind of crappy every time.
Buy a watch winder
Another category is a watch you might be embarrassed to wear in some situations, like to work. I’ve been eyeing a Breguet to add to my collection for a while, and while I could wear it on evenings/weekends my sense is it’d be a little too over the top to show up at work with a $30k watch on my wrist…
When common sense combines with passion about watches, well done Teddy!
Sometimes common sense doesn’t factor in getting a watch, but best done within reason!
@@robertschmidt9584 really few times is a factor
The "afraid to wear" aspect is something I can relate to completely. A number of years ago I purchased a Tag Heuer whilst on holiday in the Caribbean. Not their most popular model but expensive enough. But I became paranoid about putting it on my wrist! So it spent 20 years in its box without seeing daylight.
I love my Sea-gull. It proudly sits between my rolex and omega.
I like mine, too, but it wears too small on my wrist so I’ll sell it.
@@eyeheartsushi2212just buy bigger one
Picked up a AMZWATCH's watch as my first watch last month and I’m absolutely in love with it. Perfect size, looks elegant, very comfortable. Now my only problem is holding off from buying more watches so quickly!
Why did you use the Daytona Panda as the thumbnail if it isn’t even featured in the video?
Using the Panda Daytona as click bait when it’s not even featured in the video. You’re so fake Teddy
Yeah, I've felt that part about vintage watches. Overall, around 70% of my watch collection are vintage pieces. So far there wasn't much of a problem to service most of them, but one particular is a real heart breaker to me. It's small, rectangular Junghans from early 50s. Because of it, I fell in love with rectangular case design and that's why it's a very important part of my collection. Unfortunetly in the past the mainspring was replaced with one that is way to short and because of that the movement can't keep accurate time at all (around +2 h per day). So far I've taken it to 6 different watchmakers and not any one of them could repair it because they coludn't get the orginal hairspring nor another movement. That's why I wear it very rarely and more as jewelry piece than a watch.
Another aspect of this and certainly one I’ve personally struggled with is buying a watch for the lifestyle I wish I was living instead of the one I am living.
I have several dress watches,and ones that have moon phase and other complications that are wonderful,however I rarely wear them because they would be destroyed by the life I’m living. My office/cubical is a Marina I’m more likely to be using an impact driver than a laptop or underwater freeing up a prop or trying to keep a sinking boat from going down for the count.
Dude, so true!! I have been looking at two watches that fit a lifestyle that I am not living. I am most days in jeans and a t-shirt, so I do not need a six thousand dollar automatic dress watch, much less both of the ones I am drooling over at the moment, haha!
Maybe I will go for a dive watch on a rubber strap. Hmmm, gotta go shop online to do some more dreaming and drooling!
I own a few watches and I am one of those who shy away from complications because of the reason you mentioned. I try to wear most of my watches except for the fragile 1968 omega de ville because like what you said vintage pieces are harder to service
3:40 That's the beauty of all these vintage homages floating around out there. If you own a vintage Capt Willard for example, simply get one of the better homage-versions of it and wear that one in situations where water resistance or higher risk of damage are an issue.
Great video! A lot of truth there. Have to agree on most of it. I work in agriculture, farm. Wear a GS quartz, all my Seiko SLA divers, my omega railmaster to work. I have dressier GS, and others I don't want to beat up at work. Dust and dirt, bang them up.
Have a nice watch, that for me was very expensive. Wear it at home, and out places. I do worry about rip offs, but it is very understated. No flash.