Contour Fan Setup using a PMW fan controller
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- Опубліковано 23 лис 2021
- General overview of installing a PWM type controller on a contour dual fan unit on my 1988 Mustang LX. This would be used with an arduino-type controller or with an aftermarket EFI setup utilizing PWM control of a fan
I tested this particular controller from 500Hz down to 128 hz and it still functioned. Would not respond at all under 128hz.
This module is PWM+. If you wish to run PWM- you’ll need to invert the duty cycle where 100% is off.
Latest Infiniti fan controller: 21493-B210B
Latest Mazda controller : 21493-C370B
PWM generator for testing purposes: Frequency Generator, DROK DC 3.3V-30V 5-30mA 1Hz-150kHz Adjustable Output PWM Pulse Duty Cycle Square Wave Function Signal Generator Module www.amazon.com/dp/B07P848DYQ/...
Demonstration Megasquirt hookup
• Megasquirt controlling... - Авто та транспорт
I had some old fans laying around, will be setting them up for venting my garage . Thanks for the info
No problem at all 👍
I run a C6 Corvette fan and pwm fan relay on my turbo 5.3 in my 67 mustang. I run holley hp efi. Fan runs at 50% around 185 and 80% at 210. I cut off the fan at 80% throttle. I was told to run the fan at 128hz. Works well.
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Hey this is pretty slick. I run a Contour dual fan assembly as well in my old FJ60. Been using a DC Control PWM for close to 16 years and accidentally broke the damn sensor connection off today, so I'm researching newer, more rugged controllers if I cant de-pot the DC Control unit to repair the connection.
Thank you, awsome content.
Thanks for the info, I have a Mercedes Ml w163 and the fan went into full speed mode with the radiator warning light popping up. Found out it was the PWM control unit was faulty but rhe new fan is sold with the unit attached at £500 or 2nd hand 250£. Probably will find a volvo s60 as mine is a single fan.
Nice demo and good hints on using the OEM modules. The PWM frequencies you mentioned were in the mega hertz range, but I notice the readout on your PWM controller read 500 Hz. My research into these systems found they can run below your 500 Hz and well above. Frequencies between 20 KHz to 30 KHz, that's 20,000 to 30,000 cycles per second--are often what designers of PWM systems use because these frequencies are above the hearing range of us Humans. Dogs and bats might find these systems rather annoying. Higher frequencies are much more difficult to implement and could interfere with radio and tv channels.
Thanks for putting this together.. very helpful
Hey thank you so much for that info, im going to use a pwm from my wife 13 Nissan pathfinder, it has a 60 amp fuse , and its not that bulky
Terrific video some very useful information. Thank you.
thanks man! great video and good info. I'd like to pick your mind on something. Using a temp switch you get the nice feature of the fans turning ON at a set temperature and OFF at a couple degrees cooler. This helps with the fans cycling too fast/many.
Now I have setup my fans on my MS3X Megasquirt on the two Nitrous outputs using PWM signal and ramp them up from 50% to 100% as temperature rises. What I noticed is that at certain conditions it will just hang around 90-91C (195-196F) and stay on about 50% for minutes.
So since your also using Megasquirt I'd love to know how you have setup you cooling strategy and settings.
There is a new tuner studio update coming out that will offer PWM specific fan control. It should give MS users some more flexibility.
I’m actually creating a generic PWM table but have a relay setup for my AC system. When the AC goes on, I switch the relay from normally closed to open the pwm control wire which causes the fan to go 100%
As for my coolant table, I have 50% on at about 170* and then 75% at 190 and then step it up to 100% at 205. My car runs about 190-200 so it tends to hang around 75% as I don’t think my next ramp to 100% occurs until 200 degrees.
However, I usually run the ac so most of the time it defaults to 100%. With cooler weather coming I’ll likely play with the table a bit to find tune it. I find in cooler weather my fan only needs to be around 75% to keep the car cool at idle, so I’d like to try and optimize
this to avoid powering the fan more the necessary. I’m hoping the new MS update comes out soon so I can play with the specific PWM fan control options.
@@Mustang5L5 he thanks man for replying. That update would be great. How do you know about the upcoming update? A topic on msextra forum?
@@kikkegek I directly asked for PWM fan controller a year or so ago on the MEExtra forums in the “feature request” board and was told by an admin it would be in the next update. No idea what that will be dropping but I’ve actually been away from the board a bit so I need to hop back on and check.
Edit: looks like it will be in MS3 1.5.3 but it has not been released yet it seems
Good day, i have my vw golf which failing me because of aftermarket controllers i install always fail. my questin is it has 4 wires that is 2 signal wires in addition to pos and neg poles, can you recommend controller that run this setup. OEM amp is fused at 50A.
my double fans reads 220W and 150W with OEM controller is 350W, system voltage is 12V.
Great video. I'm contemplating using the Mazda 6 or s80 unit and a relay ground for activation. Does the soft start feature still when using this method for activation or is there still a large amperage draw.
Thanks
It soft starts, even if you just make/break the pwm signal wire to ground.
Hey im trouble finding a safe switched ignition source, do you think you can tell me which wire you tapped into?
Hi, great video - thanks. Quick question - that Volvo fan controller you showed doesn't appear to have a PWM input pin (I noticed many types of these controllers don't)- how do you provide the control input?
The pin is very small. You can see it at the 12 o’clock position right at 3:44
Thanks for the great video, very easy to understand. Do you think the Mazda fan controller can handle 2 fans that pull a collective 44 amps? You said the controller had a 50 amp OEM fuse so I figured it would be right on the limit but ok. The wiring to each fan would be minimal (>1-2 feet).
It’s hard for me to say. Temperature will bring the max current down a bit as well. With it being so close already, I wouldn’t be comfortable. You can fuse it and try and it might be ok. I’d probably run two of them like some Infiniti models did. One for each fan with both outputs wires in parallel to one fan motor. Or, you can look into the larger Bosch style controller (in the vid) that supports 60a. I don’t have much experience with that one however.
Edit: the dorman 620-470 is an Infiniti fan using two modules. One for each fan. Given how cheap the modules are you can try this approach. One pwm signal should run both.
@@Mustang5L5
Hi I am currently battling how to setup my jeep yj, I swapped out to a ford Taurus fan dual speed setup but I’m not sure which controller to get and if it should be a signaled thermostat like splicing the ecm thermostat wire or probe. I haven’t considered pwm fans. What’s your opinion. Which would be better. I have the ability to wire up and fab whatever is needed .
@@Dhardeman1981 using the pwm controller all depends on if you have a management system capable of sending it a predetermined signal based on engine parameters. If you don’t, it might be simpler wiring up a basic controller like a DCC unit that just looks for temp input from a sensor and is independently controlled.
Thanks for the video, nice explanation of things. Quick question.
What's the risk of running these countour dual fans without a controller? Sounds like when they start up it pulls a lot of juice but that lowers after they are running.
Also do you think I can use it without the resistor connected to anything?
You can run these fans with a regular relay. The BMW 2-speed relay is popular with these. You do not need to use the resistor if you just want a single speed - full on. The resistor is for 2-speed use.
The amperage spike on startup is very quick. Typically wiring and maxi-fuse will handle this momentary spike. I ran a similar fan off a simple Bosch 75a relay setup for years. There was a slight dimming of lights for a half second when the fan kicked on but otherwise it ran fine provided the wire size is appropriate for the load when running.
That’s the one thing I like about this controller is the soft-start feature so you don’t get that high amperage kick when they first start.
I’d be curious to see how long the module lasts if the pwm control wire was hooked to a simple Bosch 30a relay and just grounded and ungrounded to switch between off and full speed.
@@Mustang5L5 thanks for reply!
I just finished my efan and radiator install earlier today. I noticed about 0.3 volts drop when test driving the fans when start up and run full speed. I left the resistor wired in and grounded, maybe down the road I will play with one of the controllers for the smooth ramp up.
This contour fan is a nice unit, I needed the fan to be slim enough to fit while also moving lots of air all said it's a really great upgrade. My concern was the amp draw but I might need more testing.
This infos worth the sub thanks
awesome video! thank you. so it seems the infiniti PWM controller is compact small and can work with any decent electric fan?
Based on Infinti wiring diagrams I've looked at, it appears to be rated to around 50 amps. Given that it has a soft-start feature, I never saw anywhere near that with this fan setup. This was about 25 amps running 2 fans.
Got your response, thanks. Have another question, since I’ll be a using a thermal switch Normally open grounded to engine, can I then use the other end of the TS wire as a trigger upon temperature to closed TS circuit connected to the negative wire on the PWM Mazda control to run the fan?
You know, that actually might just work. It works the same as a ground and is on/off so I think it would do the same.
@@Mustang5L5 hello again, sorry for comming back so often. can you send me a link where you bought the controler and pig tail that you are using? thanks again.
@@josevizcaino4075 the modules I got were used. I got them off eBay and they came with wiring.
Here’s one brand new. There are also aftermarket ones for $30 that come up on Amazon if you search that part number. I have not heard great things about them.
www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-fan-control-module-214934ga0a?c=az0x
Here’s the wiring harness
www.ebay.com/itm/272481520683?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=t2wLViCQTDW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=5SnpWrb-QX6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I would keep an eye out on eBay for a used one with wiring. I’ve seen them in the $20-40 range.
Nicely done! Do you happen to know what part number(or model/type) the 3 connectors have for the Infiniti controller(the big power and the 2 fan connectors)? I just got myself an Infiniti controller, but struggle to find the right connectors to use to wire it up. Thanks
I do not know part numbers for OE harness ends. There are aftermarket harnesses available, but the wire size is slightly smaller than OEM. My controllers came with the oe harness ends snipped, so I used those.
This is the aftermarket plug ends.
www.ebay.com/itm/SET-OF-3-CONNECTORS-Cooling-Fan-Control-Module-Fits-Infiniti-Nissan-2006-2018-/272481520683?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
@@Mustang5L5 I got the setup wire up, but as you mentioned, as soon as the PWM generator is switched off, the fans go to max.. Did you ever figure out how to wire it so you can prevent this from happening?
@@Bluepower20vt use a 5-pin relay between the PWM signal generator and the controller. Have it setup so that when you kill power to the generator the relay also switches and grounds out the pwm signal wire. Grounding the wire will signal the controller to turn off.
So I like your setup choice of controllers and I already have my C-fan for my 92 coupe but I will be using a thermal switch threaded into manifold coolant port. And possibly a bypass switch as well, maybe. My question since I won’t be using my factory eec, how would you wire this using both fans to come upon temperature?
I have a few threads on forums with folks asking this same question. I’ve been trying to find a solution that doesn’t involve an aftermarket ECU setup. I know one can make an arduino setup but that requires a bit of DIY and coding. I have yet to find a commercial solution.
Post 26 and 30 in this thread talk about using some relays and the resistor pot to use the module to make a 2-speed fan, but also using the module for its soft-start feature. There’s also some more discussion and a thread on building the arduino device.
www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/pwm-fan-control.922944/page-2
Also, if you go to 10:13 in the vid, I talk about what happens if you ground and unground the pwm signal wire such as when using a relay. Ground it turns the fan off. Opening it so that the wire is floating causes the module to go to “fail-safe” and will soft start up to full power.
You could wire the temp switch to the ground side of the relay and install a bypass switch on this wire. Open the bypass and fan off under all conditions.
No idea what this will do for the life span of the module.
autocoolguy Darryl Dashiell channel his units do everything
Are the contour fans you use OE or Dorman? And what is your Dorman part number if aftermarket. Thanks awesome info!
The one in the video is an aftermarket fan. I don’t recall if it is a Dorman brand. I got it off RockAuto.com a few years back for about $100. It might be a Four Seasons 75282 fan.
Awesome video I have been wanting to add electric fans to my car I want to connect your setup to my A9L using binary editor just not sure how yours is triggered
I’m somewhat familiar with how binary editor can allow the A9L to control a fan, but not sure it outputs the correct pwm signal that this controller needs. I could be wrong though. I’m using Megasquirt with a pwm signal based on coolant curve and some other triggers.
Thanks for the awesome video! I'm currently running a Mark VIII fan and it has a big voltage drop when it turns on that causes a pretty bad rpm dip. Does the type of fan matter when it comes to using a PWM controller like the ones you tried? I would love to have the draw be less when the fan comes on to prevent the issue I'm having.
I’ve tested it with a couple different fans. It does reduce the amount of current draw due to the soft-start, but the max current draw will depend on the fan itself. Unfortunately I did not get a reading of the current draw of those fans. The Infiniti uses a 50A fuse on its fan, and the wiring is 10g, so it can handle some current. The Volvo S60/s80 module uses a 60amp fuse and 8g wiring.
@@Mustang5L5 Sorry I didn't get an alert that you replied to me! Thanks a lot man. I ordered a Volvo S60 unit and it was delivered yesterday. Do you happen to know if it has the "failsafe" mode where it will run full speed if the PWM wire is disconnected or grounded?
My current setup is a pair of 80A relays (to handle the Mark VIII fan) triggered using the Megasquirt fan control output so I'm wondering if for now I could essentially use the Volvo controller for soft start with the PWM grounded or disconnected until I have time to run the PWM wire from the Megasquirt to it for full variable control.
Sorry for all the text but I REALLY appreciate your help because I haven't seen this level of detail anywhere else online!
@@kylevfredrickson I never got to experiment much with that unit so I really don’t know. I do know they are sensitive to polarity when you hook up the main power/ground and it can brick the unit if not hooked up right. I would recommend getting a wiring diagram for the S60 and really knowing which wire is main power first. All my experience is with this unit in the video, so sorry I can’t be more of assistance.
@@Mustang5L5 Ah ok, thanks and no problem. You've been a huge just sharing the info about using these PWM controllers in general.
I had to buy aftermarket wiring connectors for it and they both have clear red and black wires so I would hope that they are correct for power and ground. I'll try and find a wiring diagram to check to confirm for sure which is which so I don't blow it up.
From your experience with PWM controllers, do you think it would at least be safe to test grounding the PWM wire to see how it acts? Just thinking that 100% duty cycle should essentially be solid ground right? Don't worry, I won't hold you responsible for anything I mess up, just trying to figure out a way to test it without hooking up to the megasquirt right away. :)
@@kylevfredrickson .
Could you add the part numbers for the associated connector shells and pins to your notes? I'd rather make my own wiring than buy pigtails if possible. (infiniti controller)
Video was awesome by the way.
Unfortunately, I don't have that info. I'm using a mix of OE connectors that came with the infiniti controllers, and aftermarket wiring pigtails. I've never researched what pins they are to purchase them separately. I preferred the OE connectors as the wire size on the aftermarket pigtails seems a little undersized IMHO.
I'm interested in using a similar module for fuel pump control; does the same 'ramp' behavior happen with these controllers when jumping between duty cycles or only upon startup? My concern would be pump response when fuel demand suddenly increases.
Additionally, if you have recommendations for a 400W (30A) single motor controller, that would be much appreciated.
I believe I have seen these and other pwm modules used to control fuel pump. This one will ramp up and down smoothly as your duty cycle input changes. Just not sure if it will be quick enough for your needs.
These units can be used to control a single motor. What the OEM does on a few infiniti models is they have a single pwm controller per heavy duty fan. Both outputs are used and the wires are connected at the fan. Helps split the load. I believe these units are rated for 50a based on the OEM vehicle wiring diagrams and fuse size.
The long Bosch controller (right side) is used for massive Ford single fans like Crown Vics, the only prob is they seem to have a higher failure rate due to burst capacitors. That can be solved with replacement caps of high quality.
So if my understanding is correct, and I'm not very knowledgeable with electronics,
1. The Volvo S80 controller is more robust, and
2. Either controller requires a temp sensor and arduino, which is... what controls the controller?
Where does frequency come into play? Is that programed into the arduino?
1: Yes, the Volvo unit is more robust. There is an single and double output unit, so depending on if you have 1 fan or two you need to make sure you get the right one.
2.) these controllers are reactive based off a single PWM signal wire. Depending on the duty cycle, they respond with fan output. That's why you need a controller to output that signal to the controller. In OEM applications, it's the ECU that does this after interpreting various inputs like coolant temp, AC on, etc. In an custom application, you need something else to interpret these signals and output a signal to the controller. You can make an arduino setup, or use an aftermarket ECU like a Holley or Megasquirt.
I started working on an Arduino setup that would take an input from a coolant temp sensor, but never finished. There's a lot of info in this thread with some coding as well.
ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1906766-variable-speed-pwm-fan-control-under-25-less-diy.html
Hello ,
Thanks for the explanation. This actually inspired me to use a Mercedes brushless fan which is PWM controlled.
Now I have a couple of Audi fans with the exact Bosch controller you have . They have 4 wires though - two power and two Signal ones I suppose. Unfortunately I cannot get the fans to move . Do you have any info on the 4 wire Bosch controller .
P s. If I reverse the power polarity, the fan spins backwards 😅... They are junkyard parts so I didn't care . Maybe they are both broken but that would be quite the coincidence.
Hi, sorry but unfortunately I don’t have much info on those Bosch controllers. I no longer have it so I never got to play around with it. I do remember finding info on them and a few videos so perhaps you can search and find the info you need. Sorry I couldn’t be much more help but after getting the Infiniti setup working I discarded all my other controllers and just play around with this style.
@@Mustang5L5 no need to apologize. Thanks for the answer . I'm from Germany so infinity parts are uncommon. I'll see if I find the equivalent or get the Bosch stuff to work . Time to dig into some wiring diagrams .
@@LouiLocke good luck to you!
Hey any suggestions how I can keep the mazda controller from going into failsafe mode when I turn off my car (causing the arduino that is controlling it to turn off making the Mazda unit lose signal)? I don't want to have to flip a switch to ground it everytime I turn off the car. I'd appreciate any help. Thanks!
The way it’s done on the Mazda is there is a relay wired inline on the main power feed to the controller. When you turn the vehicle off, it kills the relay which cuts power to the controller.
I am using a bosch 75a relay with mine and activate the relay with a key on power source. Fan is active when I turn the key to on but if I turn the car off, the relay opens and the controller turns off.
@@Mustang5L5 Ah that makes sense! I'll give that a shot. I really appreciate you responding and for all your help. It means a lot!
Hi. Have u perform testing using pwm signal on the ford pwm controller? What does the duty cycle
Opesting range?
I’m sorry. I have not tested that one so I don’t know the values
On the power output to the fans (blue wire and black wire), which is ground and which is hot? I have the contour fans and would like to use this setup.
On the controller outputs, with the module facing up and looking at it, the pos would be the left terminal and the negative is the right. At least that what I can see looking back at pics of my wiring. Can’t access the car at the moment.
Do u have a part # for the PWM controller ? I'm wondering what the voltage output is from that module is as a lot of electronics runs on 5 volts and i what to make sure i don't apply to much voltage to the module at the fans ? tks
The part numbers are in the description of the video. This particular module is using a 12v input on the two main power wires and at 100% fan speed it outputs 12v
@@Mustang5L5 tks, i'm going to try that Broc xy pm-1 module on a 06 crown vic fan and module assemble.
How exactly will you be wiring the controller into the mega squirt to make it function in pwm mode?
You can create an programmable PWM output on megasquirt (I am using an MS3X) and assign it to an empty pin. From there you just connect the single control wire to that assigned pin and use 250hz. In Tunerstudio, you can program the PWM output based on coolant temp and create a table. You can say that at 185 degrees, the PWM output at 250hz is 25%. This would start the fan at a low speed. Then you can program 195 degrees to be 50% and that would run the fan at half speed. You can adjust the ramp-up any way that you want.
Tunerstudio does have it's own fan control menu (for MS3X at least) but it's not PWM. It will control a relay, so i might use the feature for turning the fan off over 40MPH to switch a relay that might kill main power to the controller, or switch the control wire to ground to turn the fan off.
It will also do AC control, but I haven't decided how to wire that in yet.
Great video, question, this is PWM so, can it have a sensor connected to the radiator and sense the tempature to then build up or down the fan speed?
No. This controller requires a PWM signal from another device like an aftermarket (or factory) ECU or an arduino. Something needs to take the temp sensor signal, and other inputs like AC command, WOT, etc and convert that into a PWM signal that this unit can use. A stand-along controller would be great, but as far as I know nobody makes one design to output a PWM signal.
@@Mustang5L5 can you create a temperature sensor directly for it without an ECU? thanks
@@yellowjoe.2000 No. Test sensors work off resistance. This controller works off a pulsing voltage signal. The faster or slow the pulse, the higher or lower the fan speed will be. You need something to convert a resistance signal from a temp sensor over to a PWM voltage signal.
What controller would you recommend for the SN95 fan and MS3? I assume you would only wire the controller output to the high speed wire on the sn95 fan?
I would probably use a fusion/corvette style pwm controller, or the Volvo S60 style controller. This particular controller is probably better suited for smaller dual fans like the contour or focus dual fan. There are threads on both these units if you Google search.
I highly recommend confirming polarity before applying power to one as reversing the polarity will brick the unit.
@@Mustang5L5 if I went with contour fans to replace my old stock sn95 fan would the infinity controller be good? Also how did you fit/attach the contour fans in yours?
@@brianmeyer5535 As long as you have a method to control the controller, it would work. Unfortunately that's going to be a limitation for most folks as you need something to putput that pwm signal. I attached mine to to the shroud with two push pin style connectors for auto trim. I drilled two small holes in the shroud and then used the pins to secure it. I wanted to be able to easily remove it on the side of the road if it failed and swap in a replacement that I keep in the car.
So does that Mazda fan controller need the PWM box or will the fans soft start without it? I am running a 2-speed Taurus fan on my LS swapped 67 Chevelle and the fan will sometimes kill the motor when it kicks on at idle with the A/C on. I’ve been looking at the Derale fan controllers, but they have mixed reviews.
Yes. If you go to 10:15 in the video, I explain how the PWM signal wire can just be grounded and ungrounded to activate. It will soft-start and go to full speed. Grounding that wire will turn it off. You will only have full-speed, and off. I have no idea what this does for longevity of the module though.
@@Mustang5L5does that pwm fan controller last long? I have a Chevy bolt pwm fans and going to do the same set up as your but I want to know if the Amazon/ebay pwm controller last long enough to have this for a daily kinda use?
@@DannyR2681 I've had decent luck with the silver-body OEM PWM unit. I've not heard good things about the cheapo Amazon units. I keep a spare OEM unit in my glovebox but I'm still using the same unit in my car that I made this video with and it's been running fine. I mounted the controller in a place where I can swap it out easily with my spare unit on the road, but haven't had to do that at all.
@@Mustang5L5 so all you have to control the fans are the silver pwm unit? I don’t have a stand-alone but I’m trying to use my pwm brushless fans with a controller. How do you control your fans to turn on and off?
@@DannyR2681 No, i am using a stand-alone ECU. They won't work without some sort of controller input. I'm using a Megasquirt. For a while I was just using the small PWM controller in the video, and was in the middle of building an Arduino controller that would work off a coolant temp sensor. TBH, i was hoping someone would build a simple stand-alone controller for these that just takes a coolant reading, and maybe a few on/off inputs for AC control, manual on/off to work with these controllers.
Are you using an OEM dual fan unit? I find that the aftermarket units output less fan power. Not sure if it's my wiring, or that aftermarket fan motors are way "under-powered".
No, this one is aftermarket. Cools my car fine on 90* days with the A/C on. But you are right. The OEM motors do pull more power and draw more CFM. For the contour fan I’ve found about 30A or so at full speed vs these aftermarket ones at about 25amps. I’ve been on the lookout for a clean OeM fan to swap motors into my shroud, but unfortunately all the ones I come across are badly rusted and I don’t want to use them. My fan seems to be doing a decent job on my car, so it’s not a high priority for me.
@@Mustang5L5 Thanks! BTW, great info in the video!
Hello. What water temperature sending unit can I use in order for this Volvo S80 set up to work automatically like oem stock?
These particular controllers don’t work off a temp sending unit. They require a pwm signal wire from either the factory ECU, aftermarket ECU or some other device like Arduino or the controller pictures. The temperature sensor hooks to that ECU not this controller.
@@Mustang5L5 oh ok.. didnt know, tnks.
How would You connect it to turn on with the key or do You have to turn it on manually ?
As soon as you power on the 2 main power wires, if the PWM signal wire is disconnected it will soft-start and go to full speed. You don't have any control over fan speed this way, but it will work as a soft-start relay. You could also put a relay on the PWM signal control wire and ground/unground it to turn the fan off and full speed. Not quite the way the module was intended to work however.
Hi man, thank you so much for this video! i was looking for long time now to finish my setup, i have dual spal 30103202 , will this controller handle them and will be safe to run those fans?
Do you know how many amps those fans pull? I did a quick search and saw reference to 40A, but that seems high. These controllers are wired in their OEM application for 50 amps combined, so really you need each fan to be around 25amps or so or perhaps you can use one controller per fan (wiring the two outputs from each controller in parallel to each fan motor).
@@Mustang5L5 appreciated man, so is there any way to let both controllers act as one, to use same dimmer you have, or each fan will also have its own dimmer? and yes each spal fan uses 40 to 45amps.
one more thing i dont need to install any fuse or relay to protect my car? this controller have everything in it right?
@@Mustang5L5 hi, may you help me to know how to connect two outputs to one fan please
@@slowrook you need to identify the positive and negative of each of the two outputs. If you have the wiring harness the wire colors will be the same but I would confirm this with a multimeter. Once you’ve identified the wiring, you can just connect the two positive outputs together and the two negative outputs and run those single wires over to the fan. You are essentially making a Y-harness
@@Mustang5L5 is the Y harness goes like one way, if i connect 2 positive to be a Y harness this wont kill the unit? or both positive will go one way to the fan? sorry for my newbie quations
Hello, thanks for the nice video. I have the same volvo s60 fan controller module laying around and i didnt have pigtail connector so i cant try it yet. Can i use the amazon PWM generator to control the fan speed like your setup? TY
Yes, the Amazon controller will run it but I do not know the proper duty cycle range. I think it’s 10-90% with 0 or 100% turning the fan off. These a few resources on that controller if you search that go into more detail. Before you hook up power, make sure you know what wire is posotive and what is negative as hooking up these controllers backwards can brick them.
After hooked it into power, it does power on but can not adjust duty cycle look like i have the faulty s60 pwm fan controller, i guess it stuck on failsafe mode like you mention in the video. Fan auto ramp to max rpm, got no respond from pwn generator. Will try to get another aftermarket one.
@@gau661 yeah, sounds like it bricked. Sorry I haven’t played much with those units to offer more specific details.
@@Mustang5L5 No problem, very appreciate your help.Very nice setup. I'm having voltage spike when radiator fan kick on, i bought the nissan oem pwm controller like your setup for my old car.
Is there anyway you can explain how you wired the pwm ? I only see three wires but I thought the pwm needs four correct ? Is the pwm just wired to power and ground and then the signal wire (green) is wired to what, the ground or positive side ? (Sorry I’m very new to this)
Two of the three wires are the high current feed for the fan itself. Positive and negative. This also provides power to the module itself.
The third wire is the actual pwm control wire. This connects to the control device. Either the factory ECU, or an aftermarket ECU or arduino or the manual controller I am using in the video.
The 4th wire in a 4-wire PWM is tach, but that isn’t being use here.
@@Mustang5L5 so in this video the pwm controller your using, you have power input being the power and ground from the battery and then the signal wire coming from the fan controller itself is going to the pwm signal or the ground signal ?
@@Lima_ranger_95 the pwm output wire from the controller is going to the small pwm signal wire on the controller. Both the module, and the controller I am using need to use the same 12V+ and 12v- inputs from the battery. They get common power this way and then it’s just the single pwm wire from the controller to the module
How would you invert the pwm on the Arduino code? I have both of these controllers and I can get the mazda one to work but I can't get the Volvo one to work. Thanks!
Unfortunately that I have not solved yet. I started putting together an arduino setup for it but didn’t get far with the coding because I installed my Megasquirt setup and ended up using that to control the module. I have seen it done. This thread below may have the info you need
ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1906766-variable-speed-pwm-fan-control-under-25-less-diy.html
@@Mustang5L5 Ah ok, no worries. I appreciate you posting the video, and for the info you did share! I'll be sure to check out that link. Thanks!
Thinking of going with the contour fans myself on my 94 Mustang GT to replase the oem set up, its not cooling with new motor with AC on in traffic. Ive heard this to be a quality fix... One question can i hook this set up to my oem fan wireing harness?
No it work work with OE wiring. The 94 and contour use different methods for achieving the 2-speed fan. Contour has an on-board resistor and SN uses different windings in the motor.
@@Mustang5L5 so I'd have to get a hole knew method
@@dvinpeace correct. You’d have to use something like a DCC controller for example which would be a stand-alone PMW controller.
@@Mustang5L5 thank you! Good content
@@Mustang5L5Do you know what the CFM is on the contour? I e heard to 14" Spal fans in a aluminum shroud would be even better. I'm new to this. I just know I need to upgrade cause of new motor & power. My biggest problem is in traffic with AC on.... San Diego summer heat
One other thing, my oem unit from mitsubishi outlander 2003 gone into failsafe mode, has black metal case with no markings, I believe its original unit, its certainly the oem one.
Not sure if you had another comment. Those black box controllers were known to fail prematurely, and there is actually a recall to replace them on the vehicles originally equipped with them. They fail into failsafe mode. The silver case controllers are the updated module.
@@Mustang5L5 very interesting thanks for that.
This is interesting, i've done two quite long detailed replies and both have not been posted, in those replies I have put a link to a website where I have been documenting my teardown/rebuild of the unit.
Seems there is some censuring going on, how odd.
I shall email you instead.
It is weird. I've been searching through the UA-cam studio and do not see your comments anywhere, even under the held for moderation tab. Please send me an email as i'm curious to more details on the inner workings. Email should be under the main channel details.
Where do you get the connectors from, for the Volvo controller?
For the Volvo S60/S80 controller, search “Cooling Fan connector 940002904” which is the single output for the S60. If you need the double one you’ll have to search for s80 compatible kits with dual output harness. I got mine on eBay but can’t find a link or part number at the moment
The wire size for that particular plug seems to be equivalent to the OEM connector.
A junkyard OEM connector may be better quality however.
Does this controller signal wire use ground switching from the MS3 output?
Yes. In this video I’m using pwm+ off the cheap generator, but I show how I specifically hook it up to MS3 using ground switching here
ua-cam.com/video/XrXb13uJiq4/v-deo.html
@@Mustang5L5 Cool thanks. I don’t guess it really matters if the signal is + or - it’s just the output duty cycle will be inverted. Since my Haltech ecu switches to ground on the DPO pins I could use the stepper control output if I wanted to pulse a +12v. I found it interesting that Japanese electronics are +pwm and German use -pwm. Ford and GM use the Siemens module.
@@o1Z0sick not for this particular controller. I’ve gotten it working with both types, just need to invert the duty cycle. I don’t know if other PWM boxes are capable of the same
Where does the pwm cable comes from.to control the fan
These modules need something to interpret the coolant temp readings, or ac on/off and generate the pwm signal for it. In the original vehicle that’s done by the factory ECU. Here you will need a device to do that as well.
Most folks would use an aftermarket EFI setup that can do pwm fan control. You could also build an arduino setup to control it, or just use the manual control device I am using.
Unfortunately they won’t operate as a stand-alone device.
What's the width of your dual fan shroud?
Thanks
24.2 inches. The dimensions to these contour fans are published. See below link
CPP Radiator Cooling Fan Assembly for 95-00 Ford Contour, Mercury Mystique FO3115115 a.co/d/0WtiNTK
How would u do this with a ground trigger ?
See the other video linked in the description
so what are you using for a temp sending unit
It’s all controlled through an aftermarket ECU using the factory temp sensor. The ECU is generating a programmed pwm signal to the module based on the coolant temp sensor reading.
Could this controller work with 95 ford taurus fan
Yes. However this controller is really more for dual fans and up to 50A combined. It could run a single fan but you are better off running a single fan unit like the Ford Fusion pwm controller that a lot of folks use.
What year contour did these fans come from
97-00 Contour and 00-02 Mercury Cougar.
S80 100Mhz?? you mean 100hz? 10-90% duty
Correct, hz, not Mhz. The 10-90% range duty cycle was taken from another video I watched. I sold that controller a long time ago so I haven't had a chance to mess with it in some time.
I copied you after failing to get a mercedes aftermarket one going. These work a treat. Got the black vs and bought 2. Bargain.
Expliquer ça en français
your emails are bouncing back
Try now. Hit my storage limit
Hey Mike, I sent you an email today. Hoping I got the correct email address. It's your username at hotmail?