Replace Miata Rear Brake Pads
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- Опубліковано 25 кві 2018
- The other guys don't show you everything you need to know for this job. Join me for a close-up view of changing rear brake pads on an NA Miata.
About This Video:
I demonstrate how to replace the rear brake pads on an NA Miata.
The tools you’ll need are:
1) 14mm socket and ratchet
2) 10mm socket
3) Medium extension
4) 4mm hex wrench
5) Brake cleaner & shop rags
John Allred / MiataTravels on Social Media:
/ @miatatravels
/ miatatravels
/ miatatravels
/ miatatravels
About MiataTravels:
My cat and I are getting in my 1991 Miata in 2020, and we’re traveling to all 50 states. The biggest part of the audience for this trip, I think, will be Miata enthusiasts. So, until the trip begins, this channel and my social media will be geared toward a general interest in Miatas and the people who drive them. Once the trip is underway, we’ll switch to 100% coverage of the trip, the people we meet, and the things we do all across the country. Please share what I’m doing with your friends!
You radiate 'helpful grandpa teaching his grandkids a new trick'. And I love it
Not quite used to the grandpa thing, but I'll take that as a compliment! Thanks.
Sir, you taught a young man who’s always been afraid of breaks how to do breaks. Thank you.
I’m not so young but I echo the sentiment!
Well young man, stop breaking your brakes and start fixing them!
Same
It’s brakes* not breaks lol
wow , give me a brake ...lol
Finally, first video of value on the rear calipers.
When adjusting the emergency brake, other sources suggest that you should turn the screw about 1/3 back from the point the wheel won’t turn. This video did not mention the need to turn the screw back and I learned this lesson the hard way. my test drive today resulted in very hot and smoking rear brakes.
Good point. Thanks for noting it.
I was thinking the same thing it only bakes sense to back the screw off a bit similar to adjusting wheel bearings
Great Tutorial, I have the handbrake adjuster screw at back seized up. Good info 4mm hex head Allen Key required. Previously a star tool has been inserted. Hopefully there no drama backing it off with 4mm Hex head, thanks👍. Opinion, it's a dumb arse system, first time I have encountered on a vehicle
When watching some other videos I saw that if you pull the ebrake all the way before tightening hex bolt. Then tighten it (with ebrake pulled) once you are complete and release the ebrake it will untighten your brakes to the point they should be at. (With this method do not also do the 1/3 turn back. Use one or the other method)
Yea this is a great tutorial but if ur doing this for the first time I would recommend watching the Haynes manual vid on this cause it’s way more informative. This is still pretty good though
Appreciate that you spent some time explaining how the retention springs and clips go back together. Thank you.
Just to note out of experience with these M shaped springs;
The gentleman hosting the video installed the clips upside down. The should not ‘swing’ about. The two peaks of the M clip rest on the calliper carrier bracket and the lower v peak of the M clip lines up with the v shape of the pads slider clip.
Otherwise those pads will rattle!
I watched 4 other videos on this topic before finding this one. It is by far the most complete, easy to follow, and straightforward of the 4. I am now a subscriber to Miata Travels, and will check his library first for my next project.
By far the best video on how to change brake pads on an NA. No distracting music and simple, clear instructions. Thank you, I'll get mine done this morning.
Had it not been for you showing me the allen head screw and how to back it out, I would have been totally out of luck. The drivers-side was not an issue, but the passenger-side was a whole other deal!!! Thank You!!! The Video helped me BIG TIME!!!
Better than other videos. No long unnessesary bs. Just what i needed. Thanks
Great stuff - in addition to the 'back out a third of turn once the adjuster is snug' comments, do watch out for that hex adjuster. Mine came out on release of the cover screw and I didn't notice. I spent a long time trying to get various allen keys to do something, and thought it had been stripped. Until I saw it on the ground. (Easier to notice if you're on a smooth floor in a quiet garage, but I was on a gravel drive near a road). And don't forget to release the handbrake first!
Thank you for making this video. Just spent two hour trying to get the rear piston pressed in like the front caliper. It saved my day.
Thank you for taking the time to show everybody how this is done!
Thank you for the video. Clear, concise, and to the point. I am now prepared to tackle my rear brakes.
Thanks so much for this! Clear and concise video and verbal instruction, so much easier to see it than try to read line by line in the Haynes repair manual. First one took a some time just understanding all the nuances, was able to do the second one flying solo in under 10 minutes! I’m reasonably competent with basic mechanical work, but hadn’t done brakes before. Everything worked great the first time. THANKS!!!
Thank you for the video. Additional things that could be included are which sides the pads with the squealer tangs go and closer and clearer shots of the helper spring installs.
This is the best video on doing Miata brakes I have seen. Great job!
Thank you for sharing this how to video… My daughter and I both now own a 91 and 92 Miata and we changed our breaks thanks to you and it was Flawless 😊 these are both project cars and we are doing all the maintenance ourselves and learning as we go since these Miata‘s are so easy to work on… I would really love to see more videos! I know it’s been like three years since you put a video out and I would love to see how you’re doing and if you did your cross-country road trip & how that went.
We are in Central Florida and Miata‘s have such a big following here with car meets and batting our eyes to follow Miata Lovers on the street.
Best investment of my life… I love my Miata
Most useful video so far, Detailed, unbeatable.
This is the best tutorial I've seen. Thank you 🖤
Thank you for a proper instructional video I've been looking for one for a while now.
Thank you for this video! About to do my first brake job tomorrow
Excellent! Couldn't have done it without your splendid explanation
Thank you very much for posting this. It was invaluable.
Thanks for the video 1st time doing brakes on my mx5 1st time doing brakes at all this video helped a lot
Sweet video. Very useful. Thank you.
Great vid. You saved me a lot of time. Thanks!
Did my front brakes the other day, took a break and attempted the rears the day after and was met with completely rounded bolts, as in virtually a circle. Your guide is excellent and thorough, although I couldn't tackle it as the bolts were simply impossible to get off. Thank you for the guide though.
Thank you very much was struggling I should be done all four sides in an hour tomorrow
Thanks very much for this video, I just subscribed! I replaced the front and rear brake pads on my 1992 Miata today. Prior to watching this video I didn't really understand how the rear brakes worked. Although you didn't push the piston back, I went ahead and did that using the 10 mm socket inside the piston and a large C clamp. It was relatively easy putting everything back together and adjusting the screw with the 4 mm Allen wrench.
So wait, you DO push the piston back?
This kills the maata.
thank you this is so helpful!
Thank you sir, big help!
I truly appreciate you good sir
I installed NB calipers rotors and pads on my NA and you can put the M spring on after the caliper is closed. Makes the job much easier. Not sure if it works on the NA brakes but I think it would.
awesome video thank you!
Great video!! Thank you
Great video thanks buddy
I found it easier to put the M clips back in AFTER the caliper was back in and holding the pads, it doesn't block the clips.
I use a c clamp to hold the pads while you are adding the springs. Easey peseasy!
nice job....thank you!!!!
The Bob Ross of miata brake jobs
Gracias¡¡¡ muy util el video..
Hurts knowing that I was doing it right and they were just popping out on me, great video though eliminated any doubts I had
Nice video.
This reminds me. I have to start wearing gloves.
Thank U Sir Big Help
Awesome thanks!!
Well, I had a right of phaf getting the new pads in as they wouldn't slide onto the clips, probably half a mm shy. Took me ages, finally found there was a layer of rust just under where the clips are raising them slightly. A quick sand down and they went on a treat. 😃
U got skills
Excellent video, thanks. I just bought a used 2017. The breaks are squeaking which is annoying. Do you think just to check the lubrication, I would have to release the parking brake?
GRRRRRRRREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video! Which year and model is this one please? My one is 1992 1.6
Hello Miata Travels, new subcriber to your video...very good video...question- Do you release hand brake before operation? and when do you set "on" brake?....thx.
Hi..
Thanks for the video.
It's my first time replacing them, my set came with flat metal things, a bit in the shape of the pads, do I need them ?
What thier purpose ?
Thanks
i couldnt get the top slider out, and when i put new pads in the caliper wouldnt go back on straight and would like the rotor up, any ideas?
Order of operation question? 1. Apply Parking Brake 2. Adjust Allen Key to tight?
Great video; unfortunately I ended up rounding the 10 mm head trying to loosen the lower caliper bolt. Any suggestions?
Never mind; no luck with vise grips or channel lock pliers, but got it out with a bolt remover set. Now just to wait for the replacement bolt...
my rear breaks doesnt have the 2 clips, does it matter that i only have 1?
Is this how it is on both sides of the rear??
Is this the same procedure for a 2002?
Gee .. That seems to tight 😬 but" I've haven't done a Miata's brakes before ... Thanks Very" much 🛠
Is it the same as an nd?
Youre the father i never had
is this caliber the same that mx 3 rear>?
Is this the same for an NB?
Another video backed out the lower pin 3/4 turn after tightening, what say you?
Yes back it out or you'll smoke your brakes up
To this day the little W clip is the most frustrating thing I've ever done.
So I was turning the park brake hex and all of a sudden fluid started pouring out? First time doing brakes? Any idea what the problem could be? Thanks!
there shouldnt be brake fluid in the parking brake assembly, only grease😳 there is an o-ring on the screw that adjusts the piston depth that prevents brake fluid from flowing into the inner parking brake assembly. My guess is that your o-ring is bad.
So if I understand, hand brake off... tighten allan key until disk does not move... again hand brake off?
That is correct. When you adjust the screw, you're taking the slack out of the cable. Pulling the parking brake clamps the brake on, so you can't remove that slack.
Be careful not to over-tighten the screw. You need to be able to turn the hub with your bare hands. If it's too tight, you'll overheat the brake assembly the next time your drive the car.
Thanks for watching!
@@MiataTravels 6:16 YOU IDIOT, THE SPRINGS GO ON THE OUTSIDE , THE TWO LOOPS REST ON THE CALIPER AND THE BIG LOOP RESTS ON THE METAL GUIDE ,,,,,, MORON
What about pushing the piston back?
Fully backing off the handbrake adjust screw should take care of this
Miata na nc ?
Thank you for the video! I have a 2004 Mazdaspeed MX-5. When I removed the caliper, there was no spring that holds the pads apart (can be seen at 5:56). Does it mean it's missing and I should get a new set of hardware, or can it vary based on the model?
It’s possible that it varies. I’d would check and see if part numbers are different for the Mazdaspeed calipers.
My experience with other cars other that Miatas is that these little helper springs aren’t essential for good brake operation.
@@CurvyRoadsAreBetter Thank you!
Anton, I don't think 2004 pads have the springs. You can view the assembly at www.miata.net/garage/90-99Parts/NB_collision_guidepdf.pdf. Scroll down to page 6 or 21, under "Front Suspension."
@@johnsmiatas7213 Thank you!
My 2002 with Sport brakes didn’t have the springs, either.
How would you retract the caliper piston? c-clamp or hex?
It’s the first thing he shows you if you watch the video lmao
We used the Allen wrench
on the back of the caliper, there is a 14 millimeter screw with a very small thread. Once removed, inside is a screw with a hex head. This screw is attached to the piston, so you want to back it out as far as you can to give the caliper room to slide off. It is reverse threaded, so you turn clockwise to loosen, vice versa.
Do you need to bleed brake fluid when changing just pads?
No you don't need to, however, pushing the piston back in pushes fluid back into the master cylinder and you should check the level to make sure you don't overflow it as you push them in.
@@JaxRandomVideos What he said.
Good Video- but heads up, the springs were improperly installed.
David Gray still works the same way whether they're pointed in or out.
How can you dislike.
Why can't people specify what model Miata they have? This gets in the way of people looking for specific things about there specific Miata.
I'm just a dummy, and I'm here to learn, but I can't see putting grease on the back of the brake pads and the grease not eventually working it's way onto the pads and rotor!
Papa Torr - thanks for the response. I don't think it's possible for the grease to get from one side of the brake pad to the other, but if someone can prove it so, I would agree you're right. As for the reason for putting on in the first place, left in place long enough, the caliper and pad can bond with one another. That's not likely, of course, but it could happen, particularly in areas of the country with more salt on the roads. I'm no expert, but it seems to me that an ounce of prevention is warranted.
Very nice and well explained video....but sir the voice of the bird in the backround is stealing your work.
Put NA in the title
uuuh / I think you need to clean that flat hub' area on the rotor, between the lug studs, with a wire wheel, and the back side of the mating wheel' surface, then put some antiseize on em.
Yeah I don't agree with tightening the emergency break to the point you can't turn the hub, lol with no emergency brake applied, you need to just make sure the emergency brake can still be applied and the hub won't move, but when not engaged, that hub should be free enough to move but not freely spin. This is what naturally slows the vehicle down without applying any brakes be it automatic or manual cars, disc brakes or drum brakes. Otherwise you will lock the wheels up or have it too tight that when you drive your brakes will begin to smoke and turn several awesome shades of red. There's a reason mechanics have to be certified to work on the brake system, so be careful you can do serious damage to where you will need to take it to a professional and not save any money, damage to your wheels or worse not be able to stop and endanger your life and those around you on the road. Not all cars brakes are like this too so keep that in mind. So I'd suggest, if you are new to working on your vehicle, buy a repair manual, watch several not just one video on how too, ask a friend if they work on cars and if they can help you or supervise. I've been working on cars for 35 years and I've seen where someone has gone in and didn't know what they were doing made things worse, shitty workmanship, or my favorite, "Well, my Son, or my neighbor's Son, said he could do it....". Gnaw! (Na/No). Yeah this isn't a bad video, he means we'll, but you definitely do not want that hub that tight without the emergency brake applied. It needs to move until the brakes are applied either peddle or hand brake. This was not how I would have done these brakes, I tend to be more thorough, this is a how to quick (too quick) video. Also I forgot, take pictures on your phone of the hardware setup if new to this, before you begin for good reference as you put things back together. Try to keep things that went together lol together, take note of how the pads are in there their orientation and direction. And try to buy a complete new kit if you can don't cheap out on your LIFE!!!! And hope to save money by reusing old parts you hope won't fail after seeing 60k or more miles. Alright I'm done peace all!
the parking brake cap etc lighting was far too dim
Did anybody notice the springs on the outside of the v at the beginning of the video ua-cam.com/video/N-1HjYya5xU/v-deo.html , maybe its to protect the spring from the spinning rota? this is such an amazing and detailed video if i may say, thank you!
Don't use grease on the back of the pads like that. Use a very small dab on the top and bottom where the clips are.
efx 2017 factory service manual calls for grease exactly where he put it.
There's little to no movement between the parts, but the grease will help prevent the pads & calipers from fusing together over time.
Literally saved my ass with this. Thanks. I guess when you only work on Hyundai's/Kia for your career. Dumb shit like that Allen key makes ya look very dumb. All good now.
Sorry to be the one to say but you have done them wrong buddy.
Never use grease on the back of the pads.
what if you already did?
@@ThuyTran-lb6lx clean them
I’ve never had an issue with it. The reason I do it is to prevent the backing plate on the pad from fusing with the caliper due to extreme temperatures.
I always grease the backs of the pads. Never a problem.
Also factory service manual actually calls for the grease on the pads as shown here.
heh you dont even compress the piston what a scam
You don’t need to on the rear brake. Backing out the parking brake adjuster screw provides sufficient spread for the new pads.
John Allred The piston is mechanical. “Compress the piston” and you will be buying a new caliper, Internet genius...