Nice video, it's great seeing an expert in action, I don't envy anyone doing a ceiling like that. I thought I would see more to do with brush technique with water based gloss though.
Anyone in the trade will know the last job is the decorators job so everyone always leave the finish to us guys and plasterers leave all there mess for us to fill and clean and we get less pay.
No roller on ceiling ? You do seem to make yourself a lot of work.I know it's fairly narrow between beams but a cut and roll would be 4 times quicker at least. A 2" or 2.5" brush as well on the skirts would also be a lot quicker. Time is money bud.
You do know that the dulux quick dry waterbased paint is a hybrid which means it still contains a small amount of oil which will turn yellow over a period of time. I have been using full waterbased systems on domestic properties since 2010 if it's come out I have tried and tested it on my own home. Dulux quick dry / crown fast flow / johnstones aqua all yellow even though they say it's waterbased. I normally try samples on skirting boards left in a under stairs cupboard dulux QD had gone yellow within two months. I blame the paint companies for not really explaining there products to the trade. I hope you have not told the customer it will stay white like in the video as you might be getting a call back on the areas not getting light behind sofa and in the cupboard and with us now in autumn with less hours of day light. If you want it to stay white it has to be a full waterbased system.
Yes forgot it says stays white for longer, let us hope it's for a good while. Have not seen any yellow yet. Fingers crossed. Ronseal do a good water-based gloss.
Yes Benjamin Moore paint is really nice but does not always fit the customer's budget. I have used bedec aqua I thought the undercoat really let the product down not great opacity the satin was ok but I might as well just used an acrylic satin. I have used MSP outside on some down pipes and I thought that was a really good in black satin. Yes I have seen about the Valspar issues
@@TjrobertsdecoratingCoUk Hello there, what would yoru recommendation be for mid priced budget on a fully water based system for walls, ceilings and trim/ doors please? I want to go fully water based and there seems to be a lot of mixed advice out there!
Did a beam job like this mate a few years ago in a 17th cottage...they looked nasty after many redecorations where beams where caught time again with emulsion very similar to this....I used Annie Sloan cream chaulk paint to blank the beams out then with wire wool used Annie Sloan dark wax and rubbed into the cream beams to create a very nice looking oak effect...looked miles better than the stained tired looking beams.....I personally was chuffed to bits and so was the customer....have you ever tried this your self?....thanks Nick
Hi thanks for the reply, yes I have based and scumbled with graining tools in past....not for years though now...used to use Radcliffe's range of bases, scumbles and glazes etc...don't really see these in decorating supplies though these day...my graining tools are gathering dust in shed...shame really, it's a dying trade and skill....
Pure professional lad....now another question i washed me gloss brush in turps but theres like 'dandruff' for want of a better word.....how do i deep clean the brush....its synthetic btw.
Thanks. Not sure really they are hard to clean out. Have never actually used oil-based paint with a synthetic brush. Double check its oil -based and if so leave in white spirit overnight or brush cleaner right up to the stock. Then give it another clean.
Is that straight over the old finish (oil?) or did you use undercoat first or is there no need? Any reason for not putting some masking tape along the floor? Why a small brush, wouldn't larger be quicker? That bulb looked like an accident waiting to happen sticking out from that shade!
No, the woodwork got a coat of B.I.N. primer first because it was so yellow and had knots showing. No need to but masking on the floor and I never use masking like that. Sometimes may slide lining paper underneath if the gap is ok. But for this small room took my time and had a damp cloth. No need for a large brush cutting in at the wall and floor it's a lot faster with just the 1" brush.
As long as you sand down the old gloss it's ok. But I personally always like to put two coats on. Best to clean and sand and prime any bare parts touch up any yellow knots with a sealer. Then undercoat and a gloss best results.
Sometimes water-based paint when applied over oil-based paints can chip too easily when knocked even if rubbed down and undercoat applied. The solution is to apply a high-adhesion primer such as Zinsser Coverstain or Zinsser BIN. Prevents the chipping problem every time.
Nice video, it's great seeing an expert in action, I don't envy anyone doing a ceiling like that. I thought I would see more to do with brush technique with water based gloss though.
Thanks.
Nice touch with the lamp..👍
I personally cannot stand using water-based products on woodwork
Wood likes oil not water!
Anyone in the trade will know the last job is the decorators job so everyone always leave the finish to us guys and plasterers leave all there mess for us to fill and clean and we get less pay.
Mr Fix-it plasterers work far harder though so deserve extra
anybody that knows the trade, would not give negative comments .thanks for sharing
Thanks.
Excellent Workmanship !!
Thank you.
No roller on ceiling ? You do seem to make yourself a lot of work.I know it's fairly narrow between beams but a cut and roll would be 4 times quicker at least.
A 2" or 2.5" brush as well on the skirts would also be a lot quicker.
Time is money bud.
You do know that the dulux quick dry waterbased paint is a hybrid which means it still contains a small amount of oil which will turn yellow over a period of time. I have been using full waterbased systems on domestic properties since 2010 if it's come out I have tried and tested it on my own home. Dulux quick dry / crown fast flow / johnstones aqua all yellow even though they say it's waterbased. I normally try samples on skirting boards left in a under stairs cupboard dulux QD had gone yellow within two months. I blame the paint companies for not really explaining there products to the trade. I hope you have not told the customer it will stay white like in the video as you might be getting a call back on the areas not getting light behind sofa and in the cupboard and with us now in autumn with less hours of day light. If you want it to stay white it has to be a full waterbased system.
Yes forgot it says stays white for longer, let us hope it's for a good while. Have not seen any yellow yet. Fingers crossed.
Ronseal do a good water-based gloss.
Ronseal is ok there are some great water based products out there now worth checking out.
Yes Benjamin Moore paint is really nice but does not always fit the customer's budget. I have used bedec aqua I thought the undercoat really let the product down not great opacity the satin was ok but I might as well just used an acrylic satin. I have used MSP outside on some down pipes and I thought that was a really good in black satin. Yes I have seen about the Valspar issues
@@TjrobertsdecoratingCoUk Hello there, what would yoru recommendation be for mid priced budget on a fully water based system for walls, ceilings and trim/ doors please? I want to go fully water based and there seems to be a lot of mixed advice out there!
Did a beam job like this mate a few years ago in a 17th cottage...they looked nasty after many redecorations where beams where caught time again with emulsion very similar to this....I used Annie Sloan cream chaulk paint to blank the beams out then with wire wool used Annie Sloan dark wax and rubbed into the cream beams to create a very nice looking oak effect...looked miles better than the stained tired looking beams.....I personally was chuffed to bits and so was the customer....have you ever tried this your self?....thanks Nick
No, but we do woodgraining at times where you colour the background and finish with a scumble woodgrain effect to match existing wood.
Hi thanks for the reply, yes I have based and scumbled with graining tools in past....not for years though now...used to use Radcliffe's range of bases, scumbles and glazes etc...don't really see these in decorating supplies though these day...my graining tools are gathering dust in shed...shame really, it's a dying trade and skill....
Pure professional lad....now another question i washed me gloss brush in turps but theres like 'dandruff' for want of a better word.....how do i deep clean the brush....its synthetic btw.
Thanks. Not sure really they are hard to clean out. Have never actually used oil-based paint with a synthetic brush.
Double check its oil -based and if so leave in white spirit overnight or brush cleaner right up to the stock. Then give it another clean.
Get yourself a brush comb which will get between the bristles and get that gunk out of your brush.
Thank very much and I wonder if you can help us to learn about the wax to the ceiling bars?
Thanks, yes sure will do a video on waxing.
Can i ask if its old oil based gloss on skirting and i wish to use water based gloss what needs to be done ? Cheers mate great video as always
Is that straight over the old finish (oil?) or did you use undercoat first or is there no need?
Any reason for not putting some masking tape along the floor?
Why a small brush, wouldn't larger be quicker?
That bulb looked like an accident waiting to happen sticking out from that shade!
No, the woodwork got a coat of B.I.N. primer first because it was so yellow and had knots showing. No need to but masking on the floor and I never use masking like that. Sometimes may slide lining paper underneath if the gap is ok. But for this small room took my time and had a damp cloth. No need for a large brush cutting in at the wall and floor it's a lot faster with just the 1" brush.
did you undercoat your skirting board loved the video.
I used to live in a house like that, bloody freezing, no matter how much heat you put in....never again!
Rob Dunfy It was cold stayed overnight.
even in the summer
What do you think of the water based gloss over the top of old oil based paint. Is there any special prep work involved,
Great videos by the way
As long as you sand down the old gloss it's ok. But I personally always like to put two coats on. Best to clean and sand and prime any bare parts touch up any yellow knots with a sealer. Then undercoat and a gloss best results.
Sometimes water-based paint when applied over oil-based paints can chip too easily when knocked even if rubbed down and undercoat applied. The solution is to apply a high-adhesion primer such as Zinsser Coverstain or Zinsser BIN. Prevents the chipping problem every time.
which brand of gloss are you using for this? thanks for sharing 😎
Thanks it was the Dulux trade.
Ffs . Don’t you watch the video
that was a great vid man , and good info thanx
hoodie scum Thanks.
Hi. Did you put the waterbased gloss straight ontop of the old oil based gloss and how many coats did you use? No primer or undercoat first?
No, the woodwork got a coat of B.I.N. primer first because it was so yellow and had knots showing, then one coat of gloss.
Hi did you need to water down the gloss for easier use ?
Aaron McBride RACING ELITE. No the paint was thin enough.
Class.