As my dad's career advanced he found 'his' tailor and started ordering bespoke suits. His 'power suits' (he'd wear to huge conferences, important meetings or if he needed to play mind games with other attendees lol) made me look at him in awe because it was so beautifully made (vs the normal suits he wore to the office) and made him look like he was a force to be reckoned with.
I must be getting old ( 44) because this stuff is really fascinating to me now. I really don't think I had the confidence ( or money) to try and pull this off as a younger man, but REALLY want to try and express myself as a more mature gentleman with this kind of statement. Great content.
Actually, a bespoke suit should be not only tailor made, but the entire suit should be made from the same bolt of cloth so there's no differentiation between the separate parts.
1st suit: Wow! It looks real cool. Maybe no need for the fancier ones. 2nd suit: Hmm. I can see the differences and why mtm is worth it. It looks very stylish yet casual at the same time. Quality. 3rd suit: Now that's a suit! Lapels, the buttons, the accessories they all merge into this gorgeous look. Wow! You get what you pay for, I guess. :)
The bespoke suit looks incredible. Drapes really well on you without any kind of pulls or areas that seem to be too tight. Made to measure is a great choice as well like you've mentioned the fabric pattern is great and would be hard (if at all possible) to find off the rack. Zegna suit looks fine, I've noticed the higher end suit makers tend to have better off the rack options. Thank you for the video as always great content!
@@hespokestyle @ both 9:15 & 9:26 you can clearly see that the shoulder is too narrow there by making the sleeve too tight. Where does "Drapes really well" come in?
That made to measure suit is the bomb!!! Even the tie. They work really well with each other. I've been looking at brown/camel for my next suit or jacket and your suit just reinforced what I need.
Whether off-the-rack is good or not really depends on your body shape. I happen to have a quite regular body shape, so most off-the-rack stuff fits me very well. Though for some reason my arms seem to be short because I very often have to have the sleeves made shorter.
Same! I have very average measurements and many off-the-rack suits fit me well. The only thing that absolutely has to fit are shoulders. If shoulders are good, the rest will be good too. Cuffs, sleeves, drop adjustment - that's just basic stuff. A pinched waist sometimes helps and it's a bit trickier.
Funny thing at age 82 I still love to dress well and have not lost my taste in clothes. I've be very lucky to grow in New York city, and from my youth I had style incuding going shopping with women and picking out clothes with them. I've been able to have custom suits and shoes made simply because I traveled. Keep this channel going I so often see a lot of men make decisions that the off the rack needed a lot of tailoring or they were wearing the wrong size. Even when I was in my uniforms I would have them tailored. And yes I got a lot of compliments from both females and males on what and how my wardrobe looked as well as your added accessories. Keep preaching and teaching!
Great video. I own both off the rack and MTM suits. MTM suits are worth the money and you can customize most of the details with certain programs. The question becomes, with bespoke suits generally costing triple MTM suits, are they really 3x better? My answer is no. I have MTM suits that fit me like a glove. As you mentioned in your video, if budget allows and one cares for craftsmanship then a bespoke suit could be a good option. Personally, I would prefer 3 nice well fitting MTM suits for the price of one bespoke suit.
FACTZ I HAVE DONE THIS VERY THING. BUT I DO PLAN ON GETTING 1 FROM MY LOCAL TAILOR. HE HAS BEEN IN. BUSINESS FOR OVER 50 YEARS. SUITS RUN 800 PLUS. I PURCHASED 3 MTM FOR 847 TOATAL AFTER TAX
I concur with your recommendations. I work at a suit store and just got my first ever made-to-measure DB suit made from Holland and Sherry cloth, and I can say it is far better than the off-the-rack product I sell.
The made to measure suit is a brilliant fabric I adore it completely, I'm a bespoke tailoring student in London and am working on making a waistcoat in a very similar fabric style! The Sexton suit is absolutely classic and couldn't find fault in it ever, my only personal gripe is that the fastening buttons looked a tad too high for my taste but like you said the jacket itself is shorter for personal taste and that's the beauty of Bespoke, it's all personal and down to our own tastes! Absolutely brilliant video!
This comparison is really amazing. Working up to the bespoke suit from the bottom in this way makes you keenly aware of the actual value. I didn't even know a suit was capable of looking that good.
I really appreciate the great information and inspiration! I’m a pastor so I wear suits a lot and share your taste! I watch your UA-cam channel regularly and today we walked by a window with suits displayed. My 3 year old grandson said He Spoke Style papa! Is Brian there? I thought it was hilarious but it’s never too early to develop a style! Maybe do one on preschool style? Lol Thanks for the good work! Ed Lassley
That is up to personal taste. You can choose your own fabric and style but the experience and the fit will never be as good, costs a lot more as well. Like he said, if you can afford it, you'll never regret it.
Thank you! I wasn't even looking at suits or anything, but UA-cam nailed the recommendation and now I'm a subscriber. I am all in on bespoke and learning more about studying my local market (when all of this blows over).
Great resume of RTW, made to measure and bespoke. And also liked the fact that you mentioned the house style and that each tailor has a certain style in regards to shoulders, chest, padding, canvas and the overall style and looks. I'll also add that bespoke is a living suit and that the last fitting is also possible after 1-3 times of wearing the suit/ jacket, because of the movements and the heat of the body it'll arrange itself slightly different from the times you were fitting it in front of the mirror with the tailor. Keep up the good work, best regards.
Nice to see someone with actually a correct trouser length as you have on the Sexton bespoke, and not having them flapping around in the breeze at ankle level !!
That last suit was excruciatingly excellent...impeccable. A substantial perforated, cap toe Balmoral would in my view have knocked the look out of the ballpark. The shoulders were excellent.
I didn't realize I could like a person as much as you. Not talking about being poor or rich. But if I can afford it. Chapeau! Subscribed and liked. Going to watch more of your videos
New subscriber here, what a great video! My main take away from this as someone who's a little budget conscious is to not be afraid of off the rack but just make sure you go for the best quality you can afford. That off the rack suit you showed here was amazing and definitely looked to me like it was made to measure. And that's a great tip re the shoulder fitting, I'll remember that next time I buy a suit.
I followed your advice and got a suit and several jackets from The Knot Standard. For the most part I had a very good experience and I'm going to try them for shirts.
Sharp looks! I had a bespoke suit made when I had little knowledge about clothes a couple years back and thankfully my tailor made some decisions for me that I still enjoy to this day. It's a navy 3-on-2 roll single breasted suit with spalla camicia shoulders, with the pants having belt loops and cuffed bottoms. As a bigger guy I have had okay experiences with RTW, but usually it came down to either the shoulders being too big or my belly pulling on the buttons. Normally I had no choice and had to go with larger jackets and get them tapered as much as possible. I tried MTO once when I was much larger and it was quite decent. I didn't get to choose too many options but the size was quite good (though I suppise if I took a look at the fit now, I would be able to find a lot of issues). So in all, I agree that bespoke will fit you best and I think you will walk out with something you will like regardless of the amount of knowledge you have. With MTO and RTW, I think the buyer has to be vigilant as to know what fits and works best themselves, in order to end up with a satisfying product. Anyway thanks to all who read this long comment, hope you have a nice day!
At 80 years, I appreciate your video so much as a reminder of who am I. I’m old fashioned and prefer Tailor Made. More expensive and time consuming, but worth it. Thank you!
The most interesting thing about this video, for me, was the clear difference in fitting each suit showed. You can really see the improvements at each stage. The shoulders and lapels of the bespoke are superb! The best suit I had was a Canali I got from eBay which only cost £40. It was a single breasted navy blue which I was very lucky to have fit me very well. I always got admiring looks and one girl actually walked into a door lol. She wasn’t hurt but she made me feel ten feet tall. I put on a few pounds and so I gave the suit, with a tear in my eye, to a charity shop. I hope the gent who got it enjoys it as much as I did.
If you ever in Thailand Chiang Rai Suit Centre Unlce there has been making Suit for 50 years and Price is by the fabric you choose and damn his good 200 US $ roughly
Bespoke in sweden starts at $3000 but then they are realy good. Even tough you cant try the stuff before I am very happy with my MTM shirts for $150. You usually wear them a lot because they are like 50% moore expencive but 25% better.
Appreciate your useful advisory for men suit. Dress for the occasion. Your presentation is so comprehensive from Off The Rack, Made To Measure and Bespoke. Indeed, fabric quality and body fitness really count, even it's from OTR at a budget as a work suit in the office with the keyboard. Thank you
They're all very nice, especially the houndstooth. I'd say an off-rack suit is fine for work. Good suit for a sales person, someone working at the office. The other suits are for more special or official occasions.
Great video Brian! Actually I like that off the rack suit very much. It looks great. But ofc the other 2 are made for you so they fit very well. Cheers!
I got some suits in Thailand about 20 years ago, I had to return the next day to get fitted again. I guess maybe that is bespoken? I had a suite recently made in the US and I was just measured once, and took about 3 weeks to get.
That Edward Sexton suit is excellent. Absolutely beautiful navy colour, and lapels just the right width and shape for a powerful line. Nothing beats a big lapel - adds a lot of masculinity to a suit, and dignified masculinity is what menswear is all about.
My profession doesn’t require a suit. I love to invest in quality blazers or sports coats. I love sinking more money into my accessories more than anything else. Im going to a wedding in April , so I bought a very casual linen suit from J. Crew. I’m amping it up with a Dior Atelier tie and Prada loafers. I bought two casual off the rack suits back in the fall, but never wore them as suits. I wore them as separates . I love all your videos! Thank you!
Love the bespoke. For me as a short man m2m has been a go to for years. Don't be shy on sharing the cost with us. People need to know value costs, and to save appropriately. The double breasted rocks, shoulders are impeccable.
I’m interested in suits and new to this so this video really open my eyes on the difference. The bespoke looks absolutely beautiful beautiful compared to the of the rack. Lovely video 👌🏾
Excellent video! Great advice on the importance of getting the shoulder sizing correct. Nice clarification of the differences between Made to Measure and Bespoke suits/clothing. I think all of your suits look great on you. Having said that, I can immediately see the quality of your Made to Measure suit. Love the double breasted Bespoke suit! It’s beautiful. That suit will never go out of style and will last a lifetime. I wasn’t aware until recently that a 3 piece suit should be a staple in every man’s wardrobe. I agree with your comment about trying to avoid Off the Rack, if at all possible. I went to Macy’s recently and purchased one of their better grade suits, which I feel comfortable fit me fairly well, especially in the shoulders. Of course, I needed a tailor to assist with fittings. Much to my surprise Macy’s (Chicago, large suburban store), has no tailor! I felt like I was literally buying the suit ‘off the rack’ and expected to just roll up the legs, tug at the waist and strut out of the store in my new suit. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge/expertise and advice on options to consider when purchasing a suit.
As a massive Classic Menswear Fashion fan, I found this video incredibly interesting and informative. Keep up the Good Work Brian and stay tailored. Also as the owner of a Bespoke Tailored Suit, I can safely say that there's nothing quite like a garment that both looks incredibly elegant and timeless as well as being able to fit you perfectly in every way.
My goal in the next year is to own a fully bespoke suit from one of the tailors at Savile Row (Gieves & Hawkes, Huntsman or Dege & Skinner are favourites). Nice video👌🏻
Personally, I would also very strongly recommend Maurice Sedwell. Their suits are second to none and £5,400 to start when 80-95% hand sewn, £8,100 to start when 95-99% hand sewn and £10,800 to start when 100% hand sewn. Maurice Sedwell’s bespoke shirts (also second to none) start at £750 and are 100% hand sewn only. Top prices are 10 times that of starting prices, for what it’s worth.
Good stuff! Having some nice fitting suits is game changer. I have found that if you can dial in your size with a manufacture you can get a pretty good value OTR if you have a good tailor. It varies with maker and cut, traditional, modern, or slim but if you can get close, a tailor will have no problem adjusting it for you. Like you said, make sure the shoulders fit and the jacket length are good from the get go since they are the hardest to fix. Ideally, hemming the pants, taking in/out the waist 1" and cuff length adjustments are the only alterations you should need.
Great video. It might be worthwhile to do a video about whether it is worthwhile to get a tailor made suit (or who to go to) in a place like Hong Kong, etc. Thanks for the videos.
Hi! Love this video, big fan of the channel. I had a question about the bespoke process with Edward Sexton. Namely, how exactly did you manage getting to Saville Row for the measurement and multiple fittings? Did you fly back and forth each time, or was it something like taking a quick trip to get measured and a longer trip during which time you had four fittings? Or was there a US service? I’ve always wondered how folks here in the US get foreign-tailored suits
Love your channel and your style is what I aspire to. I live in London and walk to work everyday. I wear a suit to work and on the rainy days I am looking for dress boots to wear. I am not sure what boots are / or if appropriate to wear with a suit. Would you be able to weigh in and if appropriate what type of boots that would look like? Thank you in advance
Hi, I have one question about your bespoke suit. It looks gorgeous. I wish I have one like yours. My question is, it seems like there is only one button hole on lapel (left). Did you tell your bespoke tailor that you only want one button hole? And if you don't mind can you zoom in the button hole (and if possible up and bottom side)? I really want to see it. Thanks!
White buttons on a navy blazer are a great summer option. You can style as you normally would for a navy blazer. There's an example in this video, though the jacket is a lighter blue: ua-cam.com/video/blUTOjVwaVQ/v-deo.html
Brian you have a fantastic body build and thats why even that Zegna suit you can wear like a bespoke. As far as I know is that if the suit is from bespoke, usually u can go back to alter the measurement if you get fatter or thinner.... life time warranty, right ?
When you walked out in the Edward Sexton, I actually laughed out loud. I could not control my emotions at how insane the suit was. My goal is to be able to get an Edward Sexton myself one day.
please explain and show the things you are referring to for each suit, firstly at 06:15, 07:48 and at 08:38 as I do not understand them all. e.g. I get what the notch lapel is but what is a half canvas or "6 show 2" ?
I really like that he didn’t use a poorly fitted off the rack suit to try and exaggerate the point. 3 great looking suits and you can see that they are 3 distinct levels.
Brian, that was your best video you've ever done IMHO. You answered a ton of questions I've often thought of. This will be bookmarked for my future reference. One question, I'm 6 feet tall and I've always gotten a one and a quarter inch cuff on my suit pants. You are going with a 2 inch cuff. Is mine not appropriate for 2019? Should I increase the size of the cuff? Thanks very much Brian.
Bespoke is the best look. When I travel to Asia, I normally have 3-4 suits made, at a price that is very pleasing to the wallet. Will have a few more outfits made this summer, including a stunning outfit for a white party.
@@hespokestyle welcome buddy. The last time these cuffs were in vogue was when trousers were loose fitting, but with this slim trim shape, the trouser-cuffs are giving much needed fall and packing around ankles. I am getting my next suit on this pattern 😁. Thanks again.
The best part about your bespoke suit is that you can see the imperfections. There are some points on the jacket and shoulders that aren't perfect and that's why to me that bespoke suit stands out. Those tiny execution errors during the manufacturing process aren't seen on off-the-rack suits at stores. Personally, that's why I've loved bespoke tailoring my whole life. There's nothing like seeing these details that only come from the hand of your own tailor.
Thanks for this great video! I am in the beginning of the sartorial learning curve. I noticed the slight tension of the jacket at you waist area at 7:18. I have the same issue with my (rather high end) RTW suits. Do you think it’s normal for RTW suits? Can a MTM “corrects” the issue? Thanks!
MTM can definitely correct that issue since the suit is being made for you. The issue here is that the jacket is just a little tight on me. Coupled with the higher button stance, and you see the pulling. I could definitely have it let out a bit to correct, but I've just been lazy about it.
Ehsan Ullah Abbasi the last time I sampled Reiss was six years ago so I’m not up on the current fit. Speaking from my experience, they’re a little slim. I feel like the lapels have gotten much skinnier over the years, which I don’t like. They seem a bit more fashion-focused a la Massimo Dutti. The belt is by J.Crew though I’m not sure it is offered on their website anymore, sadly. You might check eBay. It’s a copy of the classic RL plaque belt.
Thank you, for taking the time to explain and show the options in suits! Looking to get my husband a made to measure suit. I’m about to look through your content about Ties. Thanks again! Oh yea, “Every girls’, crazy about a sharp dressed man”. And can I say, you looked very sharp in your suits😛.
Nice video! I really love your channel! I would be also interested in a video about some criteria of how to know if a suit fits. Like as you mentioned for off the rack suits most important is that the shoulders fit. A video would be great which covers how to see if the shoulders fit, how tight should be the buttons and so on.
My next two clothing items are a custom kilt, (I own 3, but none that I personally picked out) and a bespoke suit. Now, where to have a bespoke suit made, I can't find a custom Taylor in my area. ( near Wichita, ks)
chef souffle They have travelling tailors from Italy, Savile Row London England and Hong Kong that visit a big city like Chicago just look up when one of them will visit next!
Hi Brian, I thought I would write to you after seeing this video about Suits. I really like the second and the third. The shoes you are wearing with the second suit look like shoes I bought a long time ago, they are called the, Zenith, by Ferragamo. The second Suit is a beautiful color blue. Thank you for this video. I really enjoyed it You do have good taste, Jeff
Would you recommend an off the rack suit from Prada or Tom Ford vs. a made to measure suit for roughly 50% of the price? I feel like Prada and Tom Ford would be higher quality; however, the made to measure would be a better fit.
Had a bespoke suit for me 3 years ago, hardly put it on 4 times at all, given the price, afraid to wear it often, lol, but, man, bespoke is literally the second skin.
@@hespokestyle I bought it kind of a special occasion suit, and to be honest, so afraid that such a huge investment can be easily ruined if I wear it to often. I do understand on one side that it weighs like a dead weight if I do not wear it, and as I put on some weight, I won't be able to wear it some day, but on the other side, am afraid to wear it out of the fear to ruin it.
He Spoke Style Awesome! I’m in the Phoenix area and they have a store nearby. I was going to take some money from my tax return and my bonus from work and invest in a good quality made to measure suit since all I could afford until recently was off the rack. I can’t quite make the bespoke leap but made to measure is now in my budget so I’d love to know which ones you’d recommend so I get the best value for my money. Appreciate the response and keep up the solid work
Great video once again! Such quality content creators in Baltimore! Would you make a video on MTM companies that you recommend? Or companies that have nice interlinings in their suits?
Many thanks, Sebastian. I don't have a ton of experience with MTM companies, especially the online options. I'm considering setting aside some HSS money to do a side by side review of some of the biggest ones. Any in particular you'd like to see?
Have tried Suitopia with a cheep cloth, you get what you pay for. I payed full price but if you do not care to much about the cloth, they have like 25% off the price all the time. I can imagine that insted going with suitsuply for twize the price would have been worth it, and 100% wool. Then it is from $600 for a MTM. Pleas rewiev Suitsuply, that is the one I would consider in that pricerange.
@@hespokestyle I only had some shirts made via online MTM companies. This is a good and cost-effective way to get well-fitting shirts with interesting details. I went for taylorstore and hockerty to get some pin collar shirts. I'm happy with the result. There are some really cheap options too like itailor. I'm curious if they'd be worth the money for shirts. The cuts of their suits look awful even in the online customizer. Also, the customization options are too limited for me. Generally, it's very hard to find reliable reviews of MTM companies. I have a few local ones in Vienna, Austria, where I live, but I'm still reluctant to go for a custom suit. Why? Well it's a €600 - €800 investment and I have no way to tell whether the interlining will be decent, the fit ok and the details as I truly wish. It's also very confusing when you go to a company that has a good reputation but then in the ads they have in the store, the suits look uninspiring and some of the models are wearing pre-tied bowties.
As my dad's career advanced he found 'his' tailor and started ordering bespoke suits. His 'power suits' (he'd wear to huge conferences, important meetings or if he needed to play mind games with other attendees lol) made me look at him in awe because it was so beautifully made (vs the normal suits he wore to the office) and made him look like he was a force to be reckoned with.
Daddy Nomad sounds like a real Legend
More power to your pops
Draco Malfoy, is that you??
I'd argue that that comes with the double breast (they're more imposing) not necessarily because it's bespoke.
I must be getting old ( 44) because this stuff is really fascinating to me now. I really don't think I had the confidence ( or money) to try and pull this off as a younger man, but REALLY want to try and express myself as a more mature gentleman with this kind of statement. Great content.
Hope you went for it brother
Don’t worry man I’m 16 and into this stuff because I need to dress up for hockey
Don't worry about age, I'm interested at 17 years old. Different things interest us at different ages
Some of us take longer or a different route to the same destination! But celebrate arriving there!
I am 15,so age it's not the thing
The bespoke suit, commonly referred to as "Tailor made" back in the day, fully shows why they are the cream of the crop. The suit is beautiful..
Actually, a bespoke suit should be not only tailor made, but the entire suit should be made from the same bolt of cloth so there's no differentiation between the separate parts.
@@quietcritic7784 makes sense, no wonder the tailor would always pull out that huge roll of fabric for the complete suit.
1st suit: Wow! It looks real cool. Maybe no need for the fancier ones.
2nd suit: Hmm. I can see the differences and why mtm is worth it. It looks very stylish yet casual at the same time. Quality.
3rd suit: Now that's a suit! Lapels, the buttons, the accessories they all merge into this gorgeous look. Wow!
You get what you pay for, I guess. :)
The bespoke suit looks incredible. Drapes really well on you without any kind of pulls or areas that seem to be too tight. Made to measure is a great choice as well like you've mentioned the fabric pattern is great and would be hard (if at all possible) to find off the rack. Zegna suit looks fine, I've noticed the higher end suit makers tend to have better off the rack options. Thank you for the video as always great content!
Appreciate the comment!
@@hespokestyle @ both 9:15 & 9:26 you can clearly see that the shoulder is too narrow there by making the sleeve too tight. Where does "Drapes really well" come in?
That made to measure suit is the bomb!!! Even the tie. They work really well with each other. I've been looking at brown/camel for my next suit or jacket and your suit just reinforced what I need.
Whether off-the-rack is good or not really depends on your body shape. I happen to have a quite regular body shape, so most off-the-rack stuff fits me very well. Though for some reason my arms seem to be short because I very often have to have the sleeves made shorter.
Same. I get pretty darn lucky with OTR as well.
Same! I have very average measurements and many off-the-rack suits fit me well. The only thing that absolutely has to fit are shoulders. If shoulders are good, the rest will be good too. Cuffs, sleeves, drop adjustment - that's just basic stuff. A pinched waist sometimes helps and it's a bit trickier.
Funny thing at age 82 I still love to dress well and have not lost my taste in clothes. I've be very lucky to grow in New York city, and from my youth I had style incuding going shopping with women and picking out clothes with them. I've been able to have custom suits and shoes made simply because I traveled. Keep this channel going I so often see a lot of men make decisions that the off the rack needed a lot of tailoring or they were wearing the wrong size. Even when I was in my uniforms I would have them tailored. And yes I got a lot of compliments from both females and males on what and how my wardrobe looked as well as your added accessories. Keep preaching and teaching!
Great video. I own both off the rack and MTM suits. MTM suits are worth the money and you can customize most of the details with certain programs. The question becomes, with bespoke suits generally costing triple MTM suits, are they really 3x better? My answer is no. I have MTM suits that fit me like a glove. As you mentioned in your video, if budget allows and one cares for craftsmanship then a bespoke suit could be a good option. Personally, I would prefer 3 nice well fitting MTM suits for the price of one bespoke suit.
That's a great way to go!
Totally agree spot on.
Well said.
FACTZ I HAVE DONE THIS VERY THING. BUT I DO PLAN ON GETTING 1 FROM MY LOCAL TAILOR. HE HAS BEEN IN. BUSINESS FOR OVER 50 YEARS. SUITS RUN 800 PLUS. I PURCHASED 3 MTM FOR 847 TOATAL AFTER TAX
With some events... no second chances are possible. Opportunity cost runs high, bespoke becomes a: "I wish I thought about that".
I concur with your recommendations. I work at a suit store and just got my first ever made-to-measure DB suit made from Holland and Sherry cloth, and I can say it is far better than the off-the-rack product I sell.
Thanks so much for the comment. Holland and Sherry cloth is wonderful.
The made to measure suit is a brilliant fabric I adore it completely, I'm a bespoke tailoring student in London and am working on making a waistcoat in a very similar fabric style! The Sexton suit is absolutely classic and couldn't find fault in it ever, my only personal gripe is that the fastening buttons looked a tad too high for my taste but like you said the jacket itself is shorter for personal taste and that's the beauty of Bespoke, it's all personal and down to our own tastes! Absolutely brilliant video!
This comparison is really amazing. Working up to the bespoke suit from the bottom in this way makes you keenly aware of the actual value. I didn't even know a suit was capable of looking that good.
I really appreciate the great information and inspiration! I’m a pastor so I wear suits a lot and share your taste! I watch your UA-cam channel regularly and today we walked by a window with suits displayed. My 3 year old grandson said He Spoke Style papa! Is Brian there? I thought it was hilarious but it’s never too early to develop a style! Maybe do one on preschool style? Lol Thanks for the good work! Ed Lassley
The made to measure one is my favorite definitely between these three.
That is up to personal taste. You can choose your own fabric and style but the experience and the fit will never be as good, costs a lot more as well. Like he said, if you can afford it, you'll never regret it.
Thank you! I wasn't even looking at suits or anything, but UA-cam nailed the recommendation and now I'm a subscriber. I am all in on bespoke and learning more about studying my local market (when all of this blows over).
Great resume of RTW, made to measure and bespoke. And also liked the fact that you mentioned the house style and that each tailor has a certain style in regards to shoulders, chest, padding, canvas and the overall style and looks.
I'll also add that bespoke is a living suit and that the last fitting is also possible after 1-3 times of wearing the suit/ jacket, because of the movements and the heat of the body it'll arrange itself slightly different from the times you were fitting it in front of the mirror with the tailor.
Keep up the good work, best regards.
Nice to see someone with actually a correct trouser length as you have on the Sexton bespoke, and not having them flapping around in the breeze at ankle level !!
Yeah, I couldn't do a Sexton suit and not get the Sexton look.
That last suit was excruciatingly excellent...impeccable. A substantial perforated, cap toe Balmoral would in my view have knocked the look out of the ballpark. The shoulders were excellent.
Many thanks, Weha. Sexton is definitely a look. I had my wedding dinner jacket done by him as well.
Brian you and OG are the only youtubers that actually know what they are talking about. Very inspiring
Very kind of you to say. Thanks so much.
I didn't realize I could like a person as much as you. Not talking about being poor or rich. But if I can afford it. Chapeau! Subscribed and liked. Going to watch more of your videos
New subscriber here, what a great video! My main take away from this as someone who's a little budget conscious is to not be afraid of off the rack but just make sure you go for the best quality you can afford. That off the rack suit you showed here was amazing and definitely looked to me like it was made to measure. And that's a great tip re the shoulder fitting, I'll remember that next time I buy a suit.
Thank you so much for your unbiased and professional presentation about choosing men suite, best so far!!
I love this channel already. I love your mastery on these matters. I will invest in some this year. Man got to dress properly.
Much appreciated!
I followed your advice and got a suit and several jackets from The Knot Standard. For the most part I had a very good experience and I'm going to try them for shirts.
Sharp looks! I had a bespoke suit made when I had little knowledge about clothes a couple years back and thankfully my tailor made some decisions for me that I still enjoy to this day. It's a navy 3-on-2 roll single breasted suit with spalla camicia shoulders, with the pants having belt loops and cuffed bottoms.
As a bigger guy I have had okay experiences with RTW, but usually it came down to either the shoulders being too big or my belly pulling on the buttons. Normally I had no choice and had to go with larger jackets and get them tapered as much as possible.
I tried MTO once when I was much larger and it was quite decent. I didn't get to choose too many options but the size was quite good (though I suppise if I took a look at the fit now, I would be able to find a lot of issues).
So in all, I agree that bespoke will fit you best and I think you will walk out with something you will like regardless of the amount of knowledge you have. With MTO and RTW, I think the buyer has to be vigilant as to know what fits and works best themselves, in order to end up with a satisfying product.
Anyway thanks to all who read this long comment, hope you have a nice day!
That's great! Thanks so much for sharing your experiences. Appreciate that very much.
Watched some of your videos and it is possible to learn a lot about quality and measurement.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👏👏👏
Is it okay to wear a suit jacket unbuttoned?
Absolutely. I have a coat that cant be closed but it looks so good open that I wont hand it down
Yes
No, when standing the Suit should be buttoned.
@@daywalker9138says who
At 80 years, I appreciate your video so much as a reminder of who am I.
I’m old fashioned and prefer Tailor Made.
More expensive and time consuming, but worth it.
Thank you!
The most interesting thing about this video, for me, was the clear difference in fitting each suit showed. You can really see the improvements at each stage. The shoulders and lapels of the bespoke are superb! The best suit I had was a Canali I got from eBay which only cost £40. It was a single breasted navy blue which I was very lucky to have fit me very well. I always got admiring looks and one girl actually walked into a door lol. She wasn’t hurt but she made me feel ten feet tall. I put on a few pounds and so I gave the suit, with a tear in my eye, to a charity shop. I hope the gent who got it enjoys it as much as I did.
wow its amazing to actually see how different MTM was from off the rack....im sure i will probably never own bespoke but MTM looks incredible...
Yes, you have more control and the fit will be much better.
If you ever in Thailand Chiang Rai Suit Centre Unlce there has been making Suit for 50 years and Price is by the fabric you choose and damn his good 200 US $ roughly
Hey Brian could you give us the price point of each type of suit, ie, OTR, MTM, and Bespoke. The Sexton is beautiful xx
Bespoke in sweden starts at $3000 but then they are realy good.
Even tough you cant try the stuff before I am very happy with my MTM shirts for $150. You usually wear them a lot because they are like 50% moore expencive but 25% better.
Appreciate your useful advisory for men suit. Dress for the occasion. Your presentation is so comprehensive from Off The Rack, Made To Measure and Bespoke. Indeed, fabric quality and body fitness really count, even it's from OTR at a budget as a work suit in the office with the keyboard. Thank you
They're all very nice, especially the houndstooth. I'd say an off-rack suit is fine for work. Good suit for a sales person, someone working at the office. The other suits are for more special or official occasions.
Thanks for the comment.
Great show. I will also recommend if you can reveals the cuff part of the suit like lind of spacing of button for your viewers clarity.
Great video Brian! Actually I like that off the rack suit very much. It looks great. But ofc the other 2 are made for you so they fit very well. Cheers!
Thanks, as always, for the comment.
I agree. I like the style and fit of the off the rack suit most. The second two definitely looked more unique and fit great
I love that shoulder on the spoken for garment
What, if any, alterations did you have done to suit #1? It fits you well 👌🏼
Many thanks, Frank! Just hemming the pants.
I got some suits in Thailand about 20 years ago, I had to return the next day to get fitted again. I guess maybe that is bespoken? I had a suite recently made in the US and I was just measured once, and took about 3 weeks to get.
That Edward Sexton suit is excellent. Absolutely beautiful navy colour, and lapels just the right width and shape for a powerful line. Nothing beats a big lapel - adds a lot of masculinity to a suit, and dignified masculinity is what menswear is all about.
My profession doesn’t require a suit. I love to invest in quality blazers or sports coats. I love sinking more money into my accessories more than anything else. Im going to a wedding in April , so I bought a very casual linen suit from J. Crew. I’m amping it up with a Dior Atelier tie and Prada loafers. I bought two casual off the rack suits back in the fall, but never wore them as suits. I wore them as separates .
I love all your videos! Thank you!
Love the bespoke. For me as a short man m2m has been a go to for years. Don't be shy on sharing the cost with us. People need to know value costs, and to save appropriately. The double breasted rocks, shoulders are impeccable.
Thanks for this. Great info, and your delivery is easy to watch.
Oh man the bespoke suit words can't explain it beautiful
You're very kind, Ernest.
@@hespokestyle and you are very well-dressed brother
Ordered myself a HUGO BOSS suit today for Homecoming, really excited to get into this kind of dressing! Great Content!
Hope you enjoy it! When you're ready for a custom suit, please consider our service: hespokestyle.com/shop/
Nice video.My first two suits are Off the Rack and I'm really looking forward for my first custom one,hopefully soon.Keep up the good work!
Many thanks, George! Good luck to you!
Edward is the best cutter in London. He used to come to Nashville in the 1980s. He made me the most amazing dinner suit that one could ever imagine.
I love this video!! It is very informative! Best style channel !!! Thank you! Hope all is well! Hello from Atlanta.
Great video. The suit by Edward Sexton is quite nice looking. What fabric is that?
Great video, Brian. Best one I’ve seen covering this topic. Owning examples of all three, I cannot agree more with your advice.
Thanks so much! This one's been a long time coming.
I’m interested in suits and new to this so this video really open my eyes on the difference. The bespoke looks absolutely beautiful beautiful compared to the of the rack. Lovely video 👌🏾
Excellent video! Great advice on the importance of getting the shoulder sizing correct. Nice clarification of the differences between Made to Measure and Bespoke suits/clothing. I think all of your suits look great on you. Having said that, I can immediately see the quality of your Made to Measure suit. Love the double breasted Bespoke suit! It’s beautiful. That suit will never go out of style and will last a lifetime. I wasn’t aware until recently that a 3 piece suit should be a staple in every man’s wardrobe. I agree with your comment about trying to avoid Off the Rack, if at all possible. I went to Macy’s recently and purchased one of their better grade suits, which I feel comfortable fit me fairly well, especially in the shoulders. Of course, I needed a tailor to assist with fittings. Much to my surprise Macy’s (Chicago, large suburban store), has no tailor! I felt like I was literally buying the suit ‘off the rack’ and expected to just roll up the legs, tug at the waist and strut out of the store in my new suit. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge/expertise and advice on options to consider when purchasing a suit.
Ed, thank you for taking the time for such a wonderful comment. Appreciate it very much. Cheers.
all i have got is Bespoke suits in my wardrobe, you're right that's much satisfying, i choose my style according to fabric and color.
That bespoke suit actually took my breath away when it appeared on screen.
Ah, thanks! You're very kind. It's super special.
The bespoke is legit.
rip
That's why pay the high prices. Bespoke is just amazing.
Although he should have shown the rear of the suit to see how short the jacket is from the back.
As a massive Classic Menswear Fashion fan, I found this video incredibly interesting and informative. Keep up the Good Work Brian and stay tailored.
Also as the owner of a Bespoke Tailored Suit, I can safely say that there's nothing quite like a garment that both looks incredibly elegant and timeless as well as being able to fit you perfectly in every way.
I have a question, the button seems too tight on your suit. It looks like you could put someone’s eye out with that button!
How those that makes sense
Very helpful presentation. Thank you. I wish you would give a price range for each type of suit.
My goal in the next year is to own a fully bespoke suit from one of the tailors at Savile Row (Gieves & Hawkes, Huntsman or Dege & Skinner are favourites). Nice video👌🏻
Wonderful! Good luck!!!
I wish you luck.....
Personally, I would also very strongly recommend Maurice Sedwell. Their suits are second to none and £5,400 to start when 80-95% hand sewn, £8,100 to start when 95-99% hand sewn and £10,800 to start when 100% hand sewn.
Maurice Sedwell’s bespoke shirts (also second to none) start at £750 and are 100% hand sewn only. Top prices are 10 times that of starting prices, for what it’s worth.
Good stuff! Having some nice fitting suits is game changer. I have found that if you can dial in your size with a manufacture you can get a pretty good value OTR if you have a good tailor. It varies with maker and cut, traditional, modern, or slim but if you can get close, a tailor will have no problem adjusting it for you. Like you said, make sure the shoulders fit and the jacket length are good from the get go since they are the hardest to fix. Ideally, hemming the pants, taking in/out the waist 1" and cuff length adjustments are the only alterations you should need.
Hi. Ain’t There an issue with the shoulders of the bespoke one? :-/
Especially the right shoulder
Great video. It might be worthwhile to do a video about whether it is worthwhile to get a tailor made suit (or who to go to) in a place like Hong Kong, etc. Thanks for the videos.
You’re welcome!
Hi! Love this video, big fan of the channel. I had a question about the bespoke process with Edward Sexton. Namely, how exactly did you manage getting to Saville Row for the measurement and multiple fittings? Did you fly back and forth each time, or was it something like taking a quick trip to get measured and a longer trip during which time you had four fittings? Or was there a US service? I’ve always wondered how folks here in the US get foreign-tailored suits
Most tailors make trunk show tours. Dominic from Edward Sexton comes to the NYC a few times a year.
He Spoke Style much appreciated! That makes sense, but I never realized they were so common! Thanks a lot!
Love your channel and your style is what I aspire to.
I live in London and walk to work everyday. I wear a suit to work and on the rainy days I am looking for dress boots to wear. I am not sure what boots are / or if appropriate to wear with a suit. Would you be able to weigh in and if appropriate what type of boots that would look like?
Thank you in advance
Love your Chanel, good taste, very clean and very knowledgeable. Thank you for your work.
Thanks so much, Carlos. Appreciate the support.
Hi, I have one question about your bespoke suit. It looks gorgeous. I wish I have one like yours. My question is, it seems like there is only one button hole on lapel (left). Did you tell your bespoke tailor that you only want one button hole? And if you don't mind can you zoom in the button hole (and if possible up and bottom side)? I really want to see it. Thanks!
I did not search for this, but I did not know I needed this
Your thoughts on how to style white-ish buttons on a navy blazer for Summer?
White buttons on a navy blazer are a great summer option. You can style as you normally would for a navy blazer. There's an example in this video, though the jacket is a lighter blue: ua-cam.com/video/blUTOjVwaVQ/v-deo.html
The Edward Saxton shirt looks great as well,, Happy Thursday
Many thanks, Brent!
I’ve bought off the rack at JC Penny’s, Men’s Wearhouse but we have tailors here at work so I pay them to do any alterations for me.
Great video Brian!
40 Over Fashion many thanks, John!!
Brian you have a fantastic body build and thats why even that Zegna suit you can wear like a bespoke. As far as I know is that if the suit is from bespoke, usually u can go back to alter the measurement if you get fatter or thinner.... life time warranty, right ?
When you walked out in the Edward Sexton, I actually laughed out loud. I could not control my emotions at how insane the suit was. My goal is to be able to get an Edward Sexton myself one day.
please explain and show the things you are referring to for each suit, firstly at 06:15, 07:48 and at 08:38 as I do not understand them all. e.g. I get what the notch lapel is but what is a half canvas or "6 show 2" ?
I really like that he didn’t use a poorly fitted off the rack suit to try and exaggerate the point.
3 great looking suits and you can see that they are 3 distinct levels.
Brian, that was your best video you've ever done IMHO. You answered a ton of questions I've often thought of. This will be bookmarked for my future reference. One question, I'm 6 feet tall and I've always gotten a one and a quarter inch cuff on my suit pants. You are going with a 2 inch cuff. Is mine not appropriate for 2019? Should I increase the size of the cuff? Thanks very much Brian.
Your cuff size is perfectly fine. A quarter inch won't make a very big difference at all.
This is amazing content. You need to make a video about types of shoes and your personal collection 👞👞
Good idea.
I love the window pane suit, looks really classy!
Bespoke is the best look. When I travel to Asia, I normally have 3-4 suits made, at a price that is very pleasing to the wallet.
Will have a few more outfits made this summer, including a stunning outfit for a white party.
Great, helpful video. The folds on trousers are actually amazing and give a hard-to-ignore look.
Thanks, Zeeshan!
@@hespokestyle welcome buddy. The last time these cuffs were in vogue was when trousers were loose fitting, but with this slim trim shape, the trouser-cuffs are giving much needed fall and packing around ankles. I am getting my next suit on this pattern 😁. Thanks again.
Man, your Bespoke suit is unbelievable. Gorgeous! Love those shoulders. WOW
Hello, can you make a video that explains different terminology when talking about suits? Thanks
The best part about your bespoke suit is that you can see the imperfections. There are some points on the jacket and shoulders that aren't perfect and that's why to me that bespoke suit stands out. Those tiny execution errors during the manufacturing process aren't seen on off-the-rack suits at stores. Personally, that's why I've loved bespoke tailoring my whole life. There's nothing like seeing these details that only come from the hand of your own tailor.
I live in the Washington DC area. For made to measure, who would you go with? Same question for bespoke. Great video, many thanks
Great video! I always go with OTR suit and have it tailored to my needs.
Cheers. Many thanks for the support.
finally, a channel worth watching
Thanks for this great video! I am in the beginning of the sartorial learning curve. I noticed the slight tension of the jacket at you waist area at 7:18. I have the same issue with my (rather high end) RTW suits. Do you think it’s normal for RTW suits? Can a MTM “corrects” the issue? Thanks!
MTM can definitely correct that issue since the suit is being made for you. The issue here is that the jacket is just a little tight on me. Coupled with the higher button stance, and you see the pulling. I could definitely have it let out a bit to correct, but I've just been lazy about it.
How are REISS off the rack suits and which belt are you wearing with z zegna suit
Ehsan Ullah Abbasi the last time I sampled Reiss was six years ago so I’m not up on the current fit. Speaking from my experience, they’re a little slim. I feel like the lapels have gotten much skinnier over the years, which I don’t like. They seem a bit more fashion-focused a la Massimo Dutti. The belt is by J.Crew though I’m not sure it is offered on their website anymore, sadly. You might check eBay. It’s a copy of the classic RL plaque belt.
@@hespokestyle Thanks man
Thank you, for taking the time to explain and show the options in suits! Looking to get my husband a made to measure suit. I’m about to look through your content about Ties. Thanks again! Oh yea, “Every girls’, crazy about a sharp dressed man”. And can I say, you looked very sharp in your suits😛.
Very kind of you to say, Gladys.
Alas , budgets for the masses are the guiding force . great video subject .
What if we already know exactly what all three are; are we still welcome to watch? 😉 Great video Brian! Please keep up the excellent work!
Haha! You're always welcome, Ben.
Nice video! I really love your channel! I would be also interested in a video about some criteria of how to know if a suit fits. Like as you mentioned for off the rack suits most important is that the shoulders fit. A video would be great which covers how to see if the shoulders fit, how tight should be the buttons and so on.
The bespoke DB suit really stood out from the rest. That one is definitely an investment.
Unique details you can't get either OTR or MTM.
My next two clothing items are a custom kilt, (I own 3, but none that I personally picked out) and a bespoke suit.
Now, where to have a bespoke suit made, I can't find a custom Taylor in my area.
( near Wichita, ks)
Very cool! Not really familiar with any custom tailors in the midwest.
chef souffle They have travelling tailors from Italy, Savile Row London England and Hong Kong that visit a big city like Chicago just look up when one of them will visit next!
Damn all of the suits that you wear was all damn sharp!
You're very kind. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Brian,
I thought I would write to you after seeing this video
about Suits. I really like the second and the third.
The shoes you are wearing with the second suit
look like shoes I bought a long time ago, they are
called the, Zenith, by Ferragamo. The second
Suit is a beautiful color blue.
Thank you for this video. I really enjoyed it
You do have good taste,
Jeff
that Edward Sexton is giving James Bond!!
Would you recommend an off the rack suit from Prada or Tom Ford vs. a made to measure suit for roughly 50% of the price? I feel like Prada and Tom Ford would be higher quality; however, the made to measure would be a better fit.
Had a bespoke suit for me 3 years ago, hardly put it on 4 times at all, given the price, afraid to wear it often, lol, but, man, bespoke is literally the second skin.
Oh, man, you should wear it more! A suit like that needs it. It will start to fit your body even better.
@@hespokestyle I bought it kind of a special occasion suit, and to be honest, so afraid that such a huge investment can be easily ruined if I wear it to often. I do understand on one side that it weighs like a dead weight if I do not wear it, and as I put on some weight, I won't be able to wear it some day, but on the other side, am afraid to wear it out of the fear to ruin it.
What’re your thoughts on Indochino made to measure suits? Thanks for your input!
Will be doing a review of them in the next month or so.
He Spoke Style Awesome! I’m in the Phoenix area and they have a store nearby. I was going to take some money from my tax return and my bonus from work and invest in a good quality made to measure suit since all I could afford until recently was off the rack. I can’t quite make the bespoke leap but made to measure is now in my budget so I’d love to know which ones you’d recommend so I get the best value for my money. Appreciate the response and keep up the solid work
Great video once again! Such quality content creators in Baltimore!
Would you make a video on MTM companies that you recommend? Or companies that have nice interlinings in their suits?
Many thanks, Sebastian. I don't have a ton of experience with MTM companies, especially the online options. I'm considering setting aside some HSS money to do a side by side review of some of the biggest ones. Any in particular you'd like to see?
Have tried Suitopia with a cheep cloth, you get what you pay for.
I payed full price but if you do not care to much about the cloth, they have like 25% off the price all the time.
I can imagine that insted going with suitsuply for twize the price would have been worth it, and 100% wool. Then it is from $600 for a MTM.
Pleas rewiev Suitsuply, that is the one I would consider in that pricerange.
@@Myrslokstok Just butting in, he made a video not too long ago: ua-cam.com/video/J6AadSG44bs/v-deo.html
Cheers!
@@hespokestyle I only had some shirts made via online MTM companies. This is a good and cost-effective way to get well-fitting shirts with interesting details. I went for taylorstore and hockerty to get some pin collar shirts. I'm happy with the result.
There are some really cheap options too like itailor. I'm curious if they'd be worth the money for shirts. The cuts of their suits look awful even in the online customizer. Also, the customization options are too limited for me.
Generally, it's very hard to find reliable reviews of MTM companies. I have a few local ones in Vienna, Austria, where I live, but I'm still reluctant to go for a custom suit. Why? Well it's a €600 - €800 investment and I have no way to tell whether the interlining will be decent, the fit ok and the details as I truly wish.
It's also very confusing when you go to a company that has a good reputation but then in the ads they have in the store, the suits look uninspiring and some of the models are wearing pre-tied bowties.