Dude, I’m glad to see u doing similar things I’m doing and it work for you. I got my bike the day I started watching ur videos. Since then have done a handful of mods, but would like to hear more about the engine swap as that’s the final thing I wanna do! Btw I’m digging ur bike, do u have two rear breaks or what’s the other canister near ur levers
I think I fixed the Cam chain looseness basically I took off the 4 bolts for the mcgree the Bob cover off and I and I stuck a screwdriver and just popped down to click the plastic guide rail and it clicked twice and it seems to be pretty snug now
ez just a cheep generic Amazon Standalone wideband kit welded a bung in my exhuast gauge only needs 12v conection 3 amps ran a 5amp fuse and bamm! we got afr cheapo wideband sensor did not last long just go to a auto parts store grabe a nice bosch one with 1 year warranty swap it out as much as you want
Nice bike 👍 just got a z125 pro and can't wait to do the same stuff like new chain 15t sprocket and question if I wanted to go up in front sprocket what size sprocket would I get besides stock I think mine is a 30 do I go down for the rear or up an get a 31t rear thanks for your time and any information 😁
So rear sprocket is bigger equals less top speed more acceleration the front sprocket is going to be bigger more top speed smaller more acceleration less top speed going one tooth on the front sprocket is like 3 on the rear sprocket so just for instance if you had a 15 tooth front sprocket and you went to a 16 tooth it's the same as subtracting three teeth on the back a nice person as far as you can hear sprocket I would go up a tooth on the front sprocket it's easier to change higher top speed
So your front sprocket I'm not sure on this z125s but stock Vader was a 14 but I think you got a 15 I would try 16 remember to that Motors different so you're gearbox gearing maybe different so the sprocket that run unicorn motor typically won't be the same z125
Ahh ok thanks for the information I was confused but that helps alot my front is a 14t an for the z125 everyone is doing 15t upgrades and I got my bike used so I figured I would also get a new chain as mines a bit rusty and the sprocket on the back I was looking at kits and they came with 15t front and u could choose 30 which is stock in the z125 an 31 and up I'd like to get more out of my gears because I use 1st gear and 2nd so quick and I ride in 3rd but it's reved out so when i go into 4th it just doesn't have enough to fully get all of 4th gear thanks for ur time 👍
@@Prittyboy203Gaming ok you don't want to go up on your rear sprocket that will kill you top speed and make the gears even shorter I don't know if they have anything smaller for the rear for a z125 I had a hard time finding 31 for mine want a happy medium 30 you're 14 stock I would grab a 15t and 16 I'm probably going to say you like the 16 better there is a point with these 125cc engines that trying to get too high for top speed ends up hurting your top speed because the engine doesn't have enough horsepower to pull it for instance on my Vader 125 17 tooth front sprocket wouldn't go faster than my 16t on paper technically the 17t should go faster but the motor wasn't strong enough to pull the 17 so I got higher top speed from the 16t now with my Daytona it rips with a 18t I can't go any bigger tho so if I want any more I need to find a smaller rear sprocket but I've been having a hard time
I’m having issues with mines, how did you wire your harness? Did you use the stock vador harness? If so did you have the issue with the red/black wire not having a connection spot with the stock harness? Plz lmk how you wired this zs engine. Thanks!
Yes mine was just a direct plug in so the plug that came off the Daytona motor went right into the Vader harness and that's all I did is just plug that in I even left the ground wire that's like a male connector unhooked and it still ran fine but after a while II decided to make it right and put it to to ground to ground
@@Tuckem2STOGS so your stock harness for the Vader had a red/black wire? Mine and all other ones I see on UA-cam just have blue, green and the two yellows. So I’m assuming you either left the red and back wire dis connected or it technically connected to the green wire on the stock harness. Thanks for the response btw, just a little stuck lmao
When I get home I'll take a picture of the colors I literally just unplugged the stock motor Then plugged in the Daytona 4 valve didn't have to change nothing with the wires it just plugged right in and worked
Easy did have to drill out the Daytona because I swapped to 3/8th bolts ut plugged in no splicing of wires uses existing Everything wire harness CDI voltage regulator You could be the swap I'm just a couple hours I took a few days because I wanted to do a bunch of other stuff to the right right so I took the opportunity since I had it broken down
@@Tuckem2STOGS Okay well I just picked a vader 125 used for 600 having little tuning issue so I just wanna do this swap. Would you be able to build me the exhaust that big one you are wanting to do? And did you still keep the 30mm carb on or go back to 28mm?
I got rid of the 30 mill after the 1st ride it lost low end and high end but it was when I had the inch in 1/4 OD exhaust which is inch in 1/8 interdiameter so I think it was restricted plus I had the gasket from the 125 which is even more restricted now I have the inch and 3/8 pipe so it's an inch in 1/4 inner diameter The upright TTR125 boots on Amazon the navy brand fit the datona so I got one of those I'm gonna try to 30 now again
I'm surprised with an 18t front that it moves quick down low... I'm running a 16/35 on my 190. Kinda went the opposite of you, but I don't ride it much past 55mph anyhow. New exhaust and carb tunes work miracles on these engines! A 115 main though? Are you at high elevation?
Yeah the 16 was super low so I tried 17 it was good but it needed more wheelies first just from throttle 18bdid not fit I heard a few guys saying they ran it so I looked into it and yeah I just didn't have to grind very much off the case to make it work and it's about right definitely more streatable yeah this motor i Rips it's got really good bottom to mid range power just chuggs through the gears
@@Tuckem2STOGS gotcha. Usually those larger fronts kill your low end or take offs, making wheelies dang near impossible. On the other hand, the 190 and 212 wind out so fast, you almost can't ride them around town without spinning 9000rpm without regearing. Lol
No I'm 28 below sea lvl tuned with afr running 28mm pwk 115/38 winter I was running 120 tuned with wifeband my wot afr is like 12.5 right where I want it I have a 30 mill PWK and I actually am using that needle but the PWK is you need to get needles because the ones that come with it usually aren't that great you sometimes you get lucky My favorite color radar right now is the kaheen clones PW k's the one with the clear bowl that's blue and Amazon for 39 bucks they are amazing I've gotten almost every single clone loan PWK cooperator and this 1 is by far the best I like the PWK because it has better throttle response versus PE card reader arrive ultimately they say to run APWK33 millimeter I have A30I tried it It should be and it wasn't that great I lost a little bit of bottom end and I didn't have anything to gain on the top so I decided to go back with the 28 but now that I removed that little gasket in the exhaust I think that was kind of restricting a little bit I should be able to put it back on it shouldn't rip better I don't know if they make it 33 but I can I can Turn the 30 into a 33 if I wanted to
@@jasonjulian1 1st gear still power wheelies and it's definitely a little bit harder vs the 17 You have the Daytona or the zong my Cam chain seems like it's making noise louder than normal I want to replace it you can hear it in first part of videos parts are harder to get for the Daytona 4v shit Amazon has all the zong 190 parts all day everything shipping slow from China tho I want to get Stainless valve And port the head and stuff I got a head gasket coming the head definitely needs some port work
hey, thanks for the vid. Doing this soon to my z155HO that I have in my clone ct70. I was wonder about the grinding. Cheers from Costa Rica 🇨🇷
Dude, I’m glad to see u doing similar things I’m doing and it work for you. I got my bike the day I started watching ur videos. Since then have done a handful of mods, but would like to hear more about the engine swap as that’s the final thing I wanna do! Btw I’m digging ur bike, do u have two rear breaks or what’s the other canister near ur levers
I think I fixed the Cam chain looseness basically I took off the 4 bolts for the mcgree the Bob cover off and I and I stuck a screwdriver and just popped down to click the plastic guide rail and it clicked twice and it seems to be pretty snug now
you have a wideband guage connected? what are thoe device near cluster?
Do temp gauges one is the oil cooler Inlet and Outlet there have the oil pan temp
How’d you get a wideband to work with a carburetor?
ez just a cheep generic Amazon Standalone wideband kit welded a bung in my exhuast gauge only needs 12v conection 3 amps ran a 5amp fuse and bamm! we got afr cheapo wideband sensor did not last long just go to a auto parts store grabe a nice bosch one with 1 year warranty swap it out as much as you want
would you say your gearing on the bike is good for wheelies?
Yeah it power wheelies in 1st np with 18t front and 34r if you can switch to second your good can pop clutch 2nd and get it up also
Where did you get your 190 from.
ridernomics.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwxtSSBhDYARIsAEn0thRgKLanSyXgscUNCTUwwdZEVEQCvrvV7ffPMfhjAonlWXCqXvGRYbkaAg4BEALw_wcB
what mirrors you using?
KAWELL Motorcycle Mirrors End... www.amazon.com/dp/B07TH66VRB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Nice bike 👍 just got a z125 pro and can't wait to do the same stuff like new chain 15t sprocket and question if I wanted to go up in front sprocket what size sprocket would I get besides stock I think mine is a 30 do I go down for the rear or up an get a 31t rear thanks for your time and any information 😁
So rear sprocket is bigger equals less top speed more acceleration the front sprocket is going to be bigger more top speed smaller more acceleration less top speed going one tooth on the front sprocket is like 3 on the rear sprocket so just for instance if you had a 15 tooth front sprocket and you went to a 16 tooth it's the same as subtracting three teeth on the back a nice person as far as you can hear sprocket I would go up a tooth on the front sprocket it's easier to change higher top speed
So your front sprocket I'm not sure on this z125s but stock Vader was a 14 but I think you got a 15 I would try 16 remember to that Motors different so you're gearbox gearing maybe different so the sprocket that run unicorn motor typically won't be the same z125
Ahh ok thanks for the information I was confused but that helps alot my front is a 14t an for the z125 everyone is doing 15t upgrades and I got my bike used so I figured I would also get a new chain as mines a bit rusty and the sprocket on the back I was looking at kits and they came with 15t front and u could choose 30 which is stock in the z125 an 31 and up I'd like to get more out of my gears because I use 1st gear and 2nd so quick and I ride in 3rd but it's reved out so when i go into 4th it just doesn't have enough to fully get all of 4th gear thanks for ur time 👍
@@Prittyboy203Gaming ok you don't want to go up on your rear sprocket that will kill you top speed and make the gears even shorter I don't know if they have anything smaller for the rear for a z125 I had a hard time finding 31 for mine want a happy medium 30 you're 14 stock I would grab a 15t and 16 I'm probably going to say you like the 16 better there is a point with these 125cc engines that trying to get too high for top speed ends up hurting your top speed because the engine doesn't have enough horsepower to pull it for instance on my Vader 125 17 tooth front sprocket wouldn't go faster than my 16t on paper technically the 17t should go faster but the motor wasn't strong enough to pull the 17 so I got higher top speed from the 16t now with my Daytona it rips with a 18t I can't go any bigger tho so if I want any more I need to find a smaller rear sprocket but I've been having a hard time
hi,what's the other master cylinder on the clutch side,good video..later
thanks that's for clutch I've installed a cheap Universal hydraulic clutch Works awesome
I’m having issues with mines, how did you wire your harness? Did you use the stock vador harness? If so did you have the issue with the red/black wire not having a connection spot with the stock harness? Plz lmk how you wired this zs engine. Thanks!
Yes mine was just a direct plug in so the plug that came off the Daytona motor went right into the Vader harness and that's all I did is just plug that in I even left the ground wire that's like a male connector unhooked and it still ran fine but after a while II decided to make it right and put it to to ground to ground
@@Tuckem2STOGS so your stock harness for the Vader had a red/black wire? Mine and all other ones I see on UA-cam just have blue, green and the two yellows. So I’m assuming you either left the red and back wire dis connected or it technically connected to the green wire on the stock harness. Thanks for the response btw, just a little stuck lmao
When I get home I'll take a picture of the colors I literally just unplugged the stock motor Then plugged in the Daytona 4 valve didn't have to change nothing with the wires it just plugged right in and worked
2 Yello one blue can't see the last one in my photos
Maybe it's Because your is zong I wouls think the have same plug
How hard was the swap?
Easy did have to drill out the Daytona because I swapped to 3/8th bolts ut plugged in no splicing of wires uses existing Everything wire harness CDI voltage regulator You could be the swap I'm just a couple hours I took a few days because I wanted to do a bunch of other stuff to the right right so I took the opportunity since I had it broken down
@@Tuckem2STOGS Okay well I just picked a vader 125 used for 600 having little tuning issue so I just wanna do this swap. Would you be able to build me the exhaust that big one you are wanting to do? And did you still keep the 30mm carb on or go back to 28mm?
I got rid of the 30 mill after the 1st ride it lost low end and high end but it was when I had the inch in 1/4 OD exhaust which is inch in 1/8 interdiameter so I think it was restricted plus I had the gasket from the 125 which is even more restricted now I have the inch and 3/8 pipe so it's an inch in 1/4 inner diameter The upright TTR125 boots on Amazon the navy brand fit the datona so I got one of those I'm gonna try to 30 now again
@@Tuckem2STOGS gotcha well which ever one you think is best I would like for you to build me one. I'm gonna do the zs190 save a little money for now
Bro is this woodland? that looks like west st lol dope bike
Yes
West is like 1 blk from my house
I'm surprised with an 18t front that it moves quick down low... I'm running a 16/35 on my 190. Kinda went the opposite of you, but I don't ride it much past 55mph anyhow.
New exhaust and carb tunes work miracles on these engines! A 115 main though? Are you at high elevation?
Yeah the 16 was super low so I tried 17 it was good but it needed more wheelies first just from throttle 18bdid not fit I heard a few guys saying they ran it so I looked into it and yeah I just didn't have to grind very much off the case to make it work and it's about right definitely more streatable yeah this motor i Rips it's got really good bottom to mid range power just chuggs through the gears
@@Tuckem2STOGS gotcha. Usually those larger fronts kill your low end or take offs, making wheelies dang near impossible.
On the other hand, the 190 and 212 wind out so fast, you almost can't ride them around town without spinning 9000rpm without regearing. Lol
No I'm 28 below sea lvl tuned with afr running 28mm pwk 115/38 winter I was running 120 tuned with wifeband my wot afr is like 12.5 right where I want it I have a 30 mill PWK and I actually am using that needle but the PWK is you need to get needles because the ones that come with it usually aren't that great you sometimes you get lucky My favorite color radar right now is the kaheen clones PW k's the one with the clear bowl that's blue and Amazon for 39 bucks they are amazing I've gotten almost every single clone loan PWK cooperator and this 1 is by far the best I like the PWK because it has better throttle response versus PE card reader arrive ultimately they say to run APWK33 millimeter I have A30I tried it It should be and it wasn't that great I lost a little bit of bottom end and I didn't have anything to gain on the top so I decided to go back with the 28 but now that I removed that little gasket in the exhaust I think that was kind of restricting a little bit I should be able to put it back on it shouldn't rip better I don't know if they make it 33 but I can I can Turn the 30 into a 33 if I wanted to
@@jasonjulian1 1st gear still power wheelies and it's definitely a little bit harder vs the 17 You have the Daytona or the zong my Cam chain seems like it's making noise louder than normal I want to replace it you can hear it in first part of videos parts are harder to get for the Daytona 4v shit Amazon has all the zong 190 parts all day everything shipping slow from China tho I want to get Stainless valve And port the head and stuff I got a head gasket coming the head definitely needs some port work