Did you take into account the expansion gap before you calculated the width of the room? 20mm is perfect for the gap. Divided by 2 for both sides you get 10 mills on both sides. Maybe you didn't need to cut the very first board?
I know this was posted a while ago. But if youre still interested. He disregarded the expansion gap in his calculation because he had cut the bottom of the gib board which gives the 10mm expansion gap. Therefore the floor will expand under the wall and he can use a 10mm skirting board. If u dont cut the bottom of the gib board then you should include the gap in ur calculation and consider using a thicker skirting board.
I've probably watched every laminate install video on UA-cam, but this one is the absolute best. Comprehensive prep instructions given here are essential for first-timers even for otherwise competent DIYers.
I'm just wondering, instead of cutting off the bottom of the plasterboard/wallboard, if you're going to put skirting on top of the flooring anyway, why not just have the flooring start from 10mm away from the wall (as the skirting will hide the end of the board anyway) ?
If the flooring is in high sunlight during summer months, it could shrink slightly(as it looses moisture content). Then the edge of the flooring will ' crawl 'out from under the skirting and you will see a gap. The flooring has to thus be a few millimeters under the skirting when it is installed. Hope that helps mate.
3mm over 1m. over 3m that 9mm that will get you into trouble in time. I work too 3mm +- over 3m. your underlay is upside down.the moisture membrane should face down to the concrete not the foam. Over time in damp areas it will eat the foam away. Also should use water proof cloth tap on the joins.
Did you also realize after you did measurements that you could have skipped the undercut and the 20mm Short would have been the 10mm you need on either side?
We needed to 10-14mm expansion gap. Our skirting was only 10mm so we needed to undercut our gib to make up that extra 4mm. If you skirting was more than 14mm wide, you wouldn’t need to do this ^Charlie
Hi there. Thanks very much for a great video. Explained everything you need and the clic technique was invaluable. I’d laid some quick fit flooring & thought it was the same technique. I watched your video and what a relief. Absolutely brilliant. Thanks again all the best
Wow. I was seriously in tears from trying to figure it out on my own after spending all day ripping out my old flooring. I definitely feel like I'll be able to get it done now.
I think you showed the underlay being put laid upside down - the membrane side should be underneath as it prevents the moisture getting to the foam rubber (which would deteriorate if wet/damp).
Hey Roger, we have double checked this with the supplier and they've let us know that their underlay is specifically designed to be laid plastic side facing up. While it would seem logical that the 2mm foam might absorb moisture this is simply not the case. The smooth top allows the floor to expand. The plastic side has much lower friction than the foam and this is very important in order to reduce stresses or tension within the floating floor system. ^Matt
@@mitre10nz Brilliant reply - thank you. Of course your reply has arrived just one day AFTER I finished laying my flooring (incorrectly!)… Rats !!!! (But thank you!). 🤓😀 Kind regards RH Auckland NZ 🇳🇿
Hi, me again. How long does it take for you to finish the room in this video? (including furniture move, demolition, floor leveling, actual installation, cleaning up, and tidying up)
Did you take into account the expansion gap before you calculated the width of the room? 20mm is perfect for the gap. Divided by 2 for both sides you get 10 mills on both sides. Maybe you didn't need to cut the very first board?
I know this was posted a while ago. But if youre still interested. He disregarded the expansion gap in his calculation because he had cut the bottom of the gib board which gives the 10mm expansion gap. Therefore the floor will expand under the wall and he can use a 10mm skirting board. If u dont cut the bottom of the gib board then you should include the gap in ur calculation and consider using a thicker skirting board.
I've probably watched every laminate install video on UA-cam, but this one is the absolute best. Comprehensive prep instructions given here are essential for first-timers even for otherwise competent DIYers.
Cheers Ramin 👍 ^Matt
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to thoroughly explain the important steps
Glad you enjoyed it!
🤣🤣🤣🤣 Typical Kiwis. Using Metric and Imperial. must be multi-skilled 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Very good video, very systematically explained in reasonable details, also in the right sequence.
Thanks
This is the best type of marketing for Mitre 10
I'm just wondering, instead of cutting off the bottom of the plasterboard/wallboard, if you're going to put skirting on top of the flooring anyway, why not just have the flooring start from 10mm away from the wall (as the skirting will hide the end of the board anyway) ?
If the flooring is in high sunlight during summer months, it could shrink slightly(as it looses moisture content). Then the edge of the flooring will ' crawl 'out from under the skirting and you will see a gap. The flooring has to thus be a few millimeters under the skirting when it is installed. Hope that helps mate.
@@DG-im9wg ohhh. Actually that makes perfect sense (was anticipating them expanding, but not shrinking). Thanks very much.
Love the detail in this video. Great to see Mitre 10 encouraging DIY culture in NZ.
Hey kk
Excellent! Just laid our floor with this guide, spot on!
That's great to hear you followed this guide for your floor! Well done mate ^Ed
dont have the tools or the know how. at least this convinced me to hire someone competent!
3mm over 1m. over 3m that 9mm that will get you into trouble in time. I work too 3mm +- over 3m. your underlay is upside down.the moisture membrane should face down to the concrete not the foam. Over time in damp areas it will eat the foam away.
Also should use water proof cloth tap on the joins.
I blame the underlay makers, they should mark it "this side face down" instead of printing there silly logos all over it.
Did you also realize after you did measurements that you could have skipped the undercut and the 20mm Short would have been the 10mm you need on either side?
We needed to 10-14mm expansion gap. Our skirting was only 10mm so we needed to undercut our gib to make up that extra 4mm. If you skirting was more than 14mm wide, you wouldn’t need to do this ^Charlie
Wow. Your explanation is classily eloquent. You made it look so easy. Great job.
Thought you said it was easy! 🙄
Hi there. Thanks very much for a great video. Explained everything you need and the clic technique was invaluable. I’d laid some quick fit flooring & thought it was the same technique. I watched your video and what a relief. Absolutely brilliant. Thanks again all the best
Wow. I was seriously in tears from trying to figure it out on my own after spending all day ripping out my old flooring. I definitely feel like I'll be able to get it done now.
Glad we could help Johanna! Good luck 😊 ^Frank
Great video
Great video! Thank you!!!
In the US it’s called baseboard.
Man, I still cant catch the diff. between Aussie and Kiwi. I was thinking Aussie the whole time. Doooh!
Huge difference between them.
I think you showed the underlay being put laid upside down - the membrane side should be underneath as it prevents the moisture getting to the foam rubber (which would deteriorate if wet/damp).
Hey Roger, we have double checked this with the supplier and they've let us know that their underlay is specifically designed to be laid plastic side facing up. While it would seem logical that the 2mm foam might absorb moisture this is simply not the case. The smooth top allows the floor to expand. The plastic side has much lower friction than the foam and this is very important in order to reduce stresses or tension within the floating floor system. ^Matt
@@mitre10nz Brilliant reply - thank you.
Of course your reply has arrived just one day AFTER I finished laying my flooring (incorrectly!)…
Rats !!!! (But thank you!). 🤓😀
Kind regards
RH Auckland NZ 🇳🇿
We are about to do this. Thank you so look much for the info
Removing old skirting is not that easy
Hi, me again. How long does it take for you to finish the room in this video? (including furniture move, demolition, floor leveling, actual installation, cleaning up, and tidying up)
Each job will vary in time, but a job this size can take a couple of days. ^Cam
@@mitre10nz Thanks, Cam. One more question: what's the rough labour cost per sqm in Auckland?
If you're looking to get a hand with the job, best to check that one out with your local tradies for an up to date idea on their pricing. ^Matt
Is that peel and stick product @10:20 available in store at mitre 10? Cant see it on the website. Thanks
Мы собираем всю полосу паркетной доски по длинне комнаты и потом защёлкываем.
Stuff that
Why not dump membrane on the top of concrete
Before underlayer flooring
Awesome👌
Greetings from USA! Great video but what are these meters you speak of?
1 meter = 100 centimeters . google it to do see how much it is in ft
....it's the thing the rest of the world uses!
@@zshadow666 That great American Space Agency NASA uses predominantly metric and imperial huehuehue
"METRES" - I think you mean - Meters are for measuring use of water, power etc in the real world... 🤓😀👍
@@rogerhawkins6433 in the US we can't even spell meters the same. Lol
Sz goj no view been
cutting under all the skirting makes perfect sense.
Is this good for wet areas? Like bathroom/toilet?
Yes can do but you would want to waterproof ..
There are some similar laminated flooring for kitchen and bathroom
Floating timber floors are not suitable for bathrooms unfortunately.
Use vinyl planks in kitchen and bathrooms. Or tile.
Hi there. Would you advise glue down or floating?
H joints everywhere, bish bosh pish posh done......
Happy Father's Day, Mr. New Zealand! LOL!!!
Very useful! Thanks
Stoked you liked it Michael, thanks for watching! ^Cam
I swear he said one of the boards needed to be 6 inches.
Fantastic video! Thank you.
Can the boards be cut with a Jig Saw?
Heya, it wouldn’t be recommended as the cut would never be perfectly straight 👍 ^Charlie
@@mitre10nz thanks mate!
loved watching this video on fathers day explained nice ley
So e weird terminology here: packer? I prefer the word spacer.
In Australia & New Zealand ... packer is correct
@@julesbaumann6560 yep spacers are for tiling.
You could also try the word "Shim"
Impressive
Excellent video!
Thank u for good work smart work
Whete i get this
Well done!
Nicely done. Appreciate it.
The best channel
Got the same Red Wings, up top!
Cluck together flooring....
Cant stand metric system
Yea it's annoying how logical it is.
I cant stand sitting down.
Mitre 10 NZ way better than Aus.
Easy as 🤟