How to Model Tarmac using Grit
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 бер 2017
- This week's video uses a fine grit to provide the tarmac or asphalt texture. It's easy to apply and can be sanded if you don't quite get it right. It literally sands itself!
I would normally paint the 220 grit (which is slightly larger) as I find it has the odd sparkle that just looks a little unreal. The very fine 400 grit is probably ok without though and is really suited to those who don't want to paint or N or Z scale modellers. If you don't want to paint then consider a matt varnish. A video on how to paint it all will be up shortly just as soon as I finish painting!
Materials
Grits and Scatters:
Silicon Carbide or Carborundum grit - 400 grade is very fine and good for N, 220 is great for HO.
Chinchilla Dust
Glue Mix:
Craft Acrylic - Payne's Grey
Slow Drying Acrylic Medium (I used Windsor & Newton)
Water
About a third of each but thin enough that the paint mix self levels on a surface.
Index
00:17 Real World
00:59 Method
09:15 Final Result
10:32 Mini Kathys
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I really like the exposed old cobblestones, really cool detail! I'm thinking of making a scenic detailed HO slot car layout, this gives me some great ideas for the track itself.
It looks great! That is an interesting method and it looks in scale. I will try that for a road diorama. Thanks for sharing this technique.
Thanks John. Good luck with it.
Looks amazing. thanks for the share - actually really like the 400 grit too.
+Trevor Hird It's a completely different effect but still a good one.
Great series Kathy and very helpful.
+waltworld Thanks!
Kathy, that looks great even without the paint on it. Yes it does sparkle but the effect is awesome. Now, even more idea of what to use in the yard area. Thank you so much for the videos on "Tarmac", Cheers!! D. Muse
+David Muse Thanks David. I lived with the sparkly effect for years so it's not that bad.
I really like the sparkles in the tarmac - I always notice them in the real world on sunny days!
Very realistic Kathy, I've been experimenting with different grades of sandpaper stuck directly to the baseboard and painted different shades of grey and someone suggested a sprinkling of talcum powder well brushed in to give it that weathered look. Ian H.
48firefox This is what sandpaper is made from so it's more or less the same thing.
48firefox Talcum powder is a bit finer and creates a very Matt paint effect.
merci pour vos vidéos instructives et originales.
Il faut continuer
Merci beaucoup!
Grit or grain size seems to be a part of your message to achieve desired final result. Modeling in n-scale 1:160th in the US, it is a challenge to find scale sized material. I suspect that "sand paper" or "production paper" with size of 600 or greater can be a good starting point. I have used "art sand" for roads, but as fine as it is it is not in scale. Thanks for sharing your experience and techniques.
+Roger G. Perkins The fine grit is 400 and I think that would work for N scale. It is hard to get the feeling of texture while keeping it in scale.
Beautiful work Kathy!
Another, educational, informative, inspiring and entertaining video!!
Better get back to H0 freelance locomotives! 😉😄
+Duececoupe Thanks! 😄
Fantastic video Kathy, thank you. I wonder if you would mind advising please. I’m about to do this in 1:18 scale and I wonder what grit grade you would recommend for this much larger scale as a rule of thumb? Lots of grades available online so it’s a bit of a nightmare. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you, Richard.
Hi Richard. I’ve never modelled 1/18 so I don’t have a feel for it in my head. If you have sandpaper then that will help you determine what size grit looks appropriate. You may even find the chinchilla dust works well.
Hello Kathy, I have watched your UA-cam videos on two methods of achieving the effect of tarmac for OO-scale using the Rust-Oleum Textured 'Aged Iron' spray, and the Acrylic paint mix with the added slow drying medium, and then covered with the Silicon Carbide Grit.
Of the two methods, which would you say is the most effective please?
I want to apply tarmac as a make-over for the standard Hornby platform sections on a section of my layout still in construction. Thanking you, Peter
I’ve already answered this question so not sure what else to add for you.
i found a glass bottle of silicon carbide in a collection of HO stuff and i honestly had no idea what it was for until now...
Tony Fleetwood It's got a lot of uses, especially in polishing stones for jewellery or sandpaper. I think we've just repurposed it.
Really interesting video - thanks! Just found your channel so hopefully this isn't answered elsewhere! Can you say what the painting steps were to get the final effect please - you seemed to skip over that a bit. THanks!
+RobertSE6 Hi, thanks for commenting. The painting video is up in a few weeks so rather than try and explain the steps, I'll just say check it out when it comes out.
Ah I see - perfect - thanks!
where can you buy the 220 grit, that looks very realistic!!
I can’t remember where I got this but it’s a standard grit so try any DIY store or Amazon.
I'm saving this one in my reference file. Thanks for posting. That tarmac looks great already, even without any paint. I don't understand why you got a dislike already.
At 2:20, you mentioned that it was a bit patchy after the second attempt. Isn't that the idea? The patchier the better.
Something else I've successfully used in the past to give a fine texture is talcum powder. Many years ago I mixed it into my paint to represent stucco on an O-scale building.
+mpeterll Hi Peter, thanks. Dislikes are hard to work out what people don't like unless they also comment.
I think my first patches were just a little out of scale. A little person would have had a big step down!
I was thinking the other day that I should use more talc! I have used it for tarmac when I first started modelling. Time to dig it out again perhaps.
Just warn the N-scale Kathy to stay away from the edge and you'll be fine.
mpeterll She doesn't listen to me!
roflmao
It's a shame to have to paint the 220, it looks very natural as it is. Would clear matte varnish get rid of the sparkly bits?
+KingBollock I did wonder about Matt varnish but I have four different treatments so the painting is as much about tying them together.
Kathy Millatt Ah, that makes sense.
I should thank you. I have been trying to decide on a road surface for a diorama I am working on and I am going to go with the grit but worn through to cobbles, as in your other video.
Chinchilla dust! ;-) Is there anything we railway modellers wont use to get the right effect?! Ha ha. Another great tutorial
+davie maclean It is a nice product to work with especially for gravel etc. Thanks!
Hi Kathy. I use a wetting agent in all my paint water, in my case a non-ionic surfactant called polysorbate 20 (It's natural, a type of stearic acid extracted from organic coconuts). It's a magic ingredient for plant water in the range of 100 parts per million, which is why I have it, but a couple of drops in a jar of water drastically reduces the surface tension and makes any mixture diluted with the P20/water mix more self-levelling. It does amazing things for acrylic washes in particular, completely changing the way the pigments is distributed making the final result far closer to an enamel wash. It's £7 or £8 for a litre, which should last years, and like I said, I NEVER use water for any modelling purpose without adding P20 now.
Thanks, I've bought a bottle and will experiment when it arrives. I love learning things from people so thank you for sharing!
i have been spraying acrylic onto plastic with a straight water dilution and its pretty ok, but it just lacks something. is that something im lacking p20?
Tony Fleetwood Is it not spreading well? P20 is a wetting agent so will allow water to flow and not bead on a surface.
i meant to mention that i was doing it with an air brush. i have re-painted a few shells that i stripped, and although my coats are light and thin and seem to coat evenly, the finish is ultimately not as nice as a non water based paint. although mostly this doesnt bother me because i like to weather and distress my engines, if i was doing an as delivered paint job i dont think id use a diluted acrylic unless the p20 allows the coats to distribute and dry more evenly. i think when its being atomized at the spray tip the water droplets tend to reform and cause an inconsistent drying...
It could also be drying too quickly, Tony, meaning that the paint sits in separate clumps on the surface. Try misting on pure (the 99.9% stuff) isopropyll alcohol (On a test piece). It actually reactivates acrylic paints briefly and and should do the same for an acrylic coat that pure thinners does for a coat of cellulose paint.
so with model bitumen its pretty much the same as the real stuff, just miniaturized.
It’s anything that can look like it and sometimes the real thing works and sometimes it doesn’t.
@@KathyMillatt yeh mine is falling apart right now in my oven....
@@magnuswootton6181 🤣
That is a great idea Illegitemiti non carborundum ( don't let the bastards wear you down!!!
Thanks!
Hiya Kathy,
I was just wondering, could you not mix the grit in with your paint...
Many thanks...
John...
I find it very hard to paint it in smoothly and just end up with loads of brush marks or splodges. I’m sure others have mastered it but I haven’t.