I highly appreciate that you correct or give tips on the step immediately, instead of when you're finished explaining the full step. Saves a lot of time redoing things! I wish all tutorials were like this.
Thank you for doing these tutorials. They are straight and to the point. No music, no flashy stuff. Just a proper tutorial and a little DIY. It's why I keep coming back for more!
Thank you my friend! Your videos help me a lot with troubleshooting. And so did this, as I bought a newer version of this kit and got it without any instructions. It was pain to install but now, all components work- DE, Dual Z, Linear Rails and the Y-Axis mod (single extrusion 20mm built). And back to fine-tuning!
Nice work! Did the upgrade 3 years ago with my CR10v1. With stock firmware you will not notice any big change. But i promise you when you switch to Klipper you will benefit from this rail conversion a lot. With wheels and stock firmware about 30-40 mm/s. With rails about stable 50mm/s. Now with Klipper firmware about 150mm/s. On a page for Klipper tunings i found out that my hardware is capable of about 300mm/s and acceleration of 2900mm/s² without losing steps. But the actual limitation is the extruder with 13mm²/s (13: Nozzle 0.4: Layer 0.2=162,5mm/s) BTW: As grease i use lithiumgrease. Works perfect for this kind of stuff.
Hello My Tech Fun! Most linear rails need to be degreased and re-greased as they only ship with a protetive shipping oil - you'll notice this fairly quickly if that's the case as they'll become very unsmooth way too quickly :) Just a friendly heads up, otherwise great video!
You actually don't have to drill a piece for the Y switch. The adapter you didn't use mounts to the frame for the switch. But they have sensor less homing these days..so it's probably not as important. Thanks for posting the Z axis measurement from the top...that will save everyone a headache.
It also seems like that companies just don't do enough testing to see if this kit or similar kits are an easy bot on option.every stock Ender V2 for example should be the same size,etc.
Hello Igor, I have the Black Knight linear rail kit + OMG V2 Extruder + ASPINA Shinano Nema 14 motor. Very light extruder + motor combo. I was able to increase the acceleration by double. That is where one can gain total speed and quality in my humble opinion. Cheers
@@itayst Free lesson for you: - never give advice if not asked for. - never criticise how to spend money, unless it is your money. Mind your own business. Wishing you a better path in life ;)
You had the piece included in the kit for the limit switch placement. It goes on that small blue angle part. It’s attached with screws and t nuts to the rail beneath the bed.
I wonder if the y-axis is lighter compared to the stock one. Please do a test with Klipper measuring the ringing frequencies and amplitudes with the stock rails an with the linear rails!
Rollers tend to have similar or even less mass compared to linear carriages unless you do a massive downsizing on the linear rail system. A regular sized (24mm) v-slot roller is just 13g. 19g with bolt and nuts. A Hiwin MGN 15mm rail carriage (or a cheaper copy of it) you usually see in these sets weighs aroung 60g without bolts.
There is a picture on Banggood showing how the y axis endstop is supposed to work, the bracket seems to be made to move the position of the switch on the Y extrusion. Is it incompatible with the V2 because of the position of the power supply ? I'm not sure I agree with the part about rails needing way less maintenance than v-slot wheels, the feedback I got is you get what you pay for: chinese rails do no tolerate dust and particles from filament, and they become quickly crunchy or with hard spots, you need to take them apart regularly and it's a big pain not loose balls. All in all, the kit is more expensive than what I paid for my V2, and seems to bring not much. Thank you for your review, it's good to show also when a product is not really good.
There is a solution, to move limit switch to that holder and screw to the groove of 40x40 alu extrusion, then you can even slide it to have fine adjustment. But on my V2 I wanted that switch to stay where it is. That's why I created that switch presser plate.
Hello! I am mounting the same kit on an ender 3 v2. If I adjust the left side (the blue pieces with spacers) of z with the original screws, the transmission belt of x is too tight. Did you use T-nuts for the left side as well as the right?
That looks like a lot of money and effort, for no visual improvement. Pretty much in line with 3D-printer upgrades or car tuning (less than 10% power loss -> success) 😁 Maybe middle road could be metal wheels running on steel bars + aluminium extrusion. I have seen that kind of small printer somewhere, but can't remember where 🙄
I've started using Klipper and noticed the extra speed is literally starting to grind my wheels. Linear rails will let me sustain the extra performance i'm getting from klipper long term without damaging the printer. It's like using drum brakes that catch fire on a high performance car because you think vented disk brakes don't give you any improvement.
@@Stuntman707 Your case is different, and you should know it :) As long as we stick to context, POM wheels are perfectly fine for the speed MK8 hotend can offer (it's not much and Klipper won't improve it). Test showed no improvement, in print quality and that's it. Manufacturers think wheels are fine for Ender 3 V3 SE (except Y) and Ankermake M5C as well. Both are faster than Ender 3 V2. Make no mistake, I'd like to see more linear rails, linear bearings (Sovol SV06, Prusa) or metal wheels (Anycubic Kobra 2, Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro) in affordable fast printers, where they offer benefits over wheels.
I would like to see linear rails on the X axis as well. Plus I would want a kit that you don't have to mod anything to get it to work. Also I got the ExOSlide upgrade kit for both my X and Y axes. I ended up removing the kit. Just to much mods involved to get it to work better off just making a new frame,from scratch. Its not that hard to build a bed slinger from scratch. The hardest part is sourcing the parts.
I've Ender 3 V2 Neo, on X axis you're obliged to change the 2020 profile because there's not front and rear binary where to put T-nuts. I'll do this mod only on Y and X axis. On X axis it's possible to change the entire hotend with Titan+E3D V6 taken from Kingroon KP3S 3.0 that is already on rails using the same rail type on Kingroon KP3S but of 300mm. I'll be back at job finished.
I am teaking acceleration right now and am interested in what this does to the acceleration limits of the printer. Do you maybe have a accelerometer and might be able to measure the limits? I only get around 2500 mm/s² out of my Geetech A20M with VRolls and am thinking about moving to linear rails.
Those cali cubes looked terrible! I put linear rails on an Ender 3 and had much the same experience, the prints were terrible, I changed it back to the wheels and got back perfect prints, I also cleaned the carriages and relubed them before fitting.
The plan was: Those cubes are scaled and speeded up on purpose to get bed quality and to see if new setup will have less bed quality. If I would print regular size-speed cube, it would be perfect and we cannot see the difference. I didn't know at the beginning that I cannot see the difference in this case anyway.
I just analyzed the pro. The answere is NO, because Creality decided to cover those so useful grooves on alu extrusions (on Y and X). Also the Z is longer on S1, so rails would be short (or you lose max Z height). Similar problem I had with LED installing ua-cam.com/video/v-xQJMO5-fk/v-deo.html
That is not regular calibration cube, scaled up and speeded up to get worse and less worse results for comparison. If both would perfect, we couldn't see the differency. In this case, also there is no visible difference, but I didn't know that at the beggining.
I highly appreciate that you correct or give tips on the step immediately, instead of when you're finished explaining the full step. Saves a lot of time redoing things! I wish all tutorials were like this.
Thank you for doing these tutorials. They are straight and to the point. No music, no flashy stuff. Just a proper tutorial and a little DIY. It's why I keep coming back for more!
Thank you my friend! Your videos help me a lot with troubleshooting. And so did this, as I bought a newer version of this kit and got it without any instructions. It was pain to install but now, all components work- DE, Dual Z, Linear Rails and the Y-Axis mod (single extrusion 20mm built). And back to fine-tuning!
Nice work! Did the upgrade 3 years ago with my CR10v1. With stock firmware you will not notice any big change. But i promise you when you switch to Klipper you will benefit from this rail conversion a lot. With wheels and stock firmware about 30-40 mm/s. With rails about stable 50mm/s. Now with Klipper firmware about 150mm/s. On a page for Klipper tunings i found out that my hardware is capable of about 300mm/s and acceleration of 2900mm/s² without losing steps. But the actual limitation is the extruder with 13mm²/s (13: Nozzle 0.4: Layer 0.2=162,5mm/s) BTW: As grease i use lithiumgrease. Works perfect for this kind of stuff.
Hello My Tech Fun! Most linear rails need to be degreased and re-greased as they only ship with a protetive shipping oil - you'll notice this fairly quickly if that's the case as they'll become very unsmooth way too quickly :) Just a friendly heads up, otherwise great video!
Yes I did on my Kingroon KP3S, degrease with WD40 degreaser and nitro solvent. Regreased with PTFE based white grease. Now they're smooth.
You actually don't have to drill a piece for the Y switch. The adapter you didn't use mounts to the frame for the switch. But they have sensor less homing these days..so it's probably not as important. Thanks for posting the Z axis measurement from the top...that will save everyone a headache.
I do like the idea of linear rail than the Roller wheels. Less to adjust is everything lines up correctly.
install klipper and tube the printer
Thank You for the great review, I was considering buying one of these, but it does not look as a worthy upgrade (moneywise).
It also seems like that companies just don't do enough testing to see if this kit or similar kits are an easy bot on option.every stock Ender V2 for example should be the same size,etc.
Great Video always wanted to upgrade to linear rails 👍👍
I would love that print for your hot end cooler.
Hello Igor, I have the Black Knight linear rail kit + OMG V2 Extruder + ASPINA Shinano Nema 14 motor. Very light extruder + motor combo. I was able to increase the acceleration by double.
That is where one can gain total speed and quality in my humble opinion. Cheers
To gain speed and quality you need to replace that printer, not mod it to death and spend money on it
@@itayst Free lesson for you:
- never give advice if not asked for.
- never criticise how to spend money, unless it is your money.
Mind your own business.
Wishing you a better path in life ;)
@@diegovd7215 enjoy your money pit of a useless printer.
@@itayst quality on the e3 is fine. Don't need to spend tons of money if it all. Speed is definitely limited by the moving bed though.
You had the piece included in the kit for the limit switch placement. It goes on that small blue angle part. It’s attached with screws and t nuts to the rail beneath the bed.
I wonder if the y-axis is lighter compared to the stock one. Please do a test with Klipper measuring the ringing frequencies and amplitudes with the stock rails an with the linear rails!
Rollers tend to have similar or even less mass compared to linear carriages unless you do a massive downsizing on the linear rail system. A regular sized (24mm) v-slot roller is just 13g. 19g with bolt and nuts. A Hiwin MGN 15mm rail carriage (or a cheaper copy of it) you usually see in these sets weighs aroung 60g without bolts.
There is a picture on Banggood showing how the y axis endstop is supposed to work, the bracket seems to be made to move the position of the switch on the Y extrusion. Is it incompatible with the V2 because of the position of the power supply ?
I'm not sure I agree with the part about rails needing way less maintenance than v-slot wheels, the feedback I got is you get what you pay for: chinese rails do no tolerate dust and particles from filament, and they become quickly crunchy or with hard spots, you need to take them apart regularly and it's a big pain not loose balls.
All in all, the kit is more expensive than what I paid for my V2, and seems to bring not much.
Thank you for your review, it's good to show also when a product is not really good.
There is a solution, to move limit switch to that holder and screw to the groove of 40x40 alu extrusion, then you can even slide it to have fine adjustment. But on my V2 I wanted that switch to stay where it is. That's why I created that switch presser plate.
you should use klipper ;)
+1
Do you like Microswiss extruder? It's very nice open type easy to clean unlike let say Biqu H2.
Yes, that's exactly the reason why I like it. My favourite for problematic TPU filaments.
@@MyTechFun Currently I test Biqu H2 V2S with their Nova hotend copy however willing to design similar to Microswiss using its gears.
Pretty cool
While sliding the bed forward and back it sounded a little noisy would you recommend oiling or greased the bearings on the rail?
Hello! I am mounting the same kit on an ender 3 v2. If I adjust the left side (the blue pieces with spacers) of z with the original screws, the transmission belt of x is too tight. Did you use T-nuts for the left side as well as the right?
That looks like a lot of money and effort, for no visual improvement. Pretty much in line with 3D-printer upgrades or car tuning (less than 10% power loss -> success) 😁
Maybe middle road could be metal wheels running on steel bars + aluminium extrusion. I have seen that kind of small printer somewhere, but can't remember where 🙄
I've started using Klipper and noticed the extra speed is literally starting to grind my wheels. Linear rails will let me sustain the extra performance i'm getting from klipper long term without damaging the printer. It's like using drum brakes that catch fire on a high performance car because you think vented disk brakes don't give you any improvement.
@@Stuntman707 Your case is different, and you should know it :)
As long as we stick to context, POM wheels are perfectly fine for the speed MK8 hotend can offer (it's not much and Klipper won't improve it). Test showed no improvement, in print quality and that's it.
Manufacturers think wheels are fine for Ender 3 V3 SE (except Y) and Ankermake M5C as well. Both are faster than Ender 3 V2.
Make no mistake, I'd like to see more linear rails, linear bearings (Sovol SV06, Prusa) or metal wheels (Anycubic Kobra 2, Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro) in affordable fast printers, where they offer benefits over wheels.
parts still have alot of elephant foot. i wonder why
I would like to see linear rails on the X axis as well. Plus I would want a kit that you don't have to mod anything to get it to work. Also I got the ExOSlide upgrade kit for both my X and Y axes. I ended up removing the kit. Just to much mods involved to get it to work better off just making a new frame,from scratch. Its not that hard to build a bed slinger from scratch. The hardest part is sourcing the parts.
I am surprised you don't have a hero me on your printer yet, that lille part cooling fan looks anemic, LOL.
При низкой стоимости колёс теряется весь смысл. Спасибо за видео.
Very nice installation! Would you have the link for the SD Card adaptor mounted on the left side? Thanks
This is the video about ot, you can find the link in description ua-cam.com/video/dybAyK0_IhQ/v-deo.html
@@MyTechFun Thank you, greetings from Canada.
How come you didn't clean and lubriiicate the linear rails? They sounded awful dirty.
Eh, right, small detail which is not presented in the video (they are lubricated)
I've Ender 3 V2 Neo, on X axis you're obliged to change the 2020 profile because there's not front and rear binary where to put T-nuts.
I'll do this mod only on Y and X axis.
On X axis it's possible to change the entire hotend with Titan+E3D V6 taken from Kingroon KP3S 3.0 that is already on rails using the same rail type on Kingroon KP3S but of 300mm. I'll be back at job finished.
Did you end up changing the X extrusion to fit the linear rail?
@@nurelarab no in the last mod I drilled 3.3mm holes and built M4 thread.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsr4AwSeom8TA
I am teaking acceleration right now and am interested in what this does to the acceleration limits of the printer. Do you maybe have a accelerometer and might be able to measure the limits? I only get around 2500 mm/s² out of my Geetech A20M with VRolls and am thinking about moving to linear rails.
I will mount BTT Pad7 to it, there will be a video soon.
Those cali cubes looked terrible! I put linear rails on an Ender 3 and had much the same experience, the prints were terrible, I changed it back to the wheels and got back perfect prints, I also cleaned the carriages and relubed them before fitting.
The plan was: Those cubes are scaled and speeded up on purpose to get bed quality and to see if new setup will have less bed quality. If I would print regular size-speed cube, it would be perfect and we cannot see the difference. I didn't know at the beginning that I cannot see the difference in this case anyway.
Hello there, what is the model of this extrude? Also is the fan shroud custom or a open stl??
Extruder is MicroSwiss Direct Drive for Ender3. Fan shroud is Satsana, more info here: ua-cam.com/video/fa7IflGJH2Y/v-deo.html
Its suitable for Ender 3 S1 pro ?
I just analyzed the pro. The answere is NO, because Creality decided to cover those so useful grooves on alu extrusions (on Y and X). Also the Z is longer on S1, so rails would be short (or you lose max Z height). Similar problem I had with LED installing ua-cam.com/video/v-xQJMO5-fk/v-deo.html
All of that work just to be using a stock firmware? Lol a klipper firmware update would probably outperform all of those parts with a stock printer.
tudtam hogy magyar a pali :D
same shit.
I can't believe how poor your print quality is. Truly awful.
That is not regular calibration cube, scaled up and speeded up to get worse and less worse results for comparison. If both would perfect, we couldn't see the differency. In this case, also there is no visible difference, but I didn't know that at the beggining.