I was wondering if you'd maybe be able to help me out. I bought a 2015 topps mini chrome Emmitt smith auto, that has a hairline crease on the back, but the front is fine. What would you recommend to help with the back crease?
I’m not sure, I don’t know if that is something that could go away. If you have another 2015 Topps mini chrome you might want to try soaking it to see if it can handle that. I don’t think there’s another way. I’m not even sure if that would work, but if you’re an Instagram, you can send me a picture.
@@kurtscardcare ok thank you for the response! It's gonna be delivered in the mail today so I'll send a dm with a picture. Worst case scenario I just deal with it and enjoy the card in its condition
@@matthewmolina3326 I can show you some cool stuff on modern cards. The front of modern cards like prizm and optic will not change but I can show you how to get dungs out of the back. I have a playlist right here on UA-cam called “dings and dents”
@@douglasmckinley-sr1507 no, that’s a good question but you don’t wanna smash them down. You just wanna get them back into the original shape. If you have a pressed card, I can show you how to get it back to its original condition.
I ask about a standard method for handling common card problems because I tried to method recommended in this video for creases and my card actually ended up worse than it started.
Not all cardboard is created equal for the various cards and all sets arent made with the same type of material for vintage products. Especially back in the old days for the vintage products, some old cards get wrecked from the soak and dont hold up disintegrating while others turn out amazing . It just depends what set and era its from and how good the cardstock or cardboard was, that the product was created / printed on. Its no different from Prizm nowadays vs the cheaper modern sets that use similar, but not equal plastic material for the cards. Prizm is built stronger and is a higher end mainstream card easier to repair and the cheaper sets are made on weaker material hents the price difference on the open market, as well as at hobby or retail stores. Cheaper the product , the cheaper the material. Now for old cards its a crap shoot, just trial and error for sets. Im sure kurt here has ruined hundreds if not thousands of cards from various sets testing his products while they were under development and knows which sets hold up better for refurbishment. Id test on cheap cards from whatever set your more expensive card your repairing is from , that way you can gauge how well itll hold up while being repaired! Hope that helps and your able to repair your cards next time around. Take care. ---- Nate- @Cardcitysports
@@Cardcitysportsdang it truly is just trial and error. If I Have a broad array from say 1935-1989 Topps bowman Philadelphia fleer would you recommend just getting a card from every year and from every brand I have and just trying that way?
@@erikolsen3838 your method is going in the right direction with steam I just think you can do without the heat. I like using small amounts of spray like this with light retention; it usually improves. Most creases suck and don't go away 100% but ill take the improvement and I just like doing the process. Talk to you next time -Kurt
@@joeymak2000 good question. I was just using a little light amount of moisture so it wasn’t very wet. But I found that using the pads usually produces better results. But if you’re going to work on a few things with light moisture, you can do it like this.
I did this with my Ozzie smith card. I put it between the two glass plates and when I came back and took it out the bottom right corner ripped off the white paint and stuck to the glass. It ruined my card. It cost me about $1800. Why did it stick to the glass and yours didn’t?
@@OANDPJAFO I appreciate the question. I’m sorry to hear about the situation. Did you use the oversize penny sleeves until the card was 100% dry? if not, the card will have moisture in it and it will stick to the plastic. Those big plastic penny sleeves are what I use to prevent it from sticking.
@@kurtscardcarei did it over night and then put it between the two plexi glass in the morning. I guess it didn’t dry all the way. Why not switch out the plastic with new plastic for the second half? Why touch the glass at all?
@@OANDPJAFO I’m sorry again to hear that. You can keep it between the sleeves the whole time. This card dried quickly. And when it’s dry, it’s not an issue. If you’re gonna work on something new, I don’t want you to be nervous. If you’re on Instagram, why don’t you send me a request or a direct message and show me a picture of something then I can give you some tips first. I’ll make sure you don’t mess anything up moving forward. I appreciate you sharing this.
Kurt, I like your videos but it's hard to tell what to do for a card problem. For example, for creases, like this video, you have about 5 different ways to fix it. You could use card spray, put it in between acrylic discs with penny sleeves in between, you also show not using clamps or penny sleeves for creases, then you show using a humidor and trying to "massage" the creases out, then another way has you just using spray and trying to get the creases out without any clamps. It seems like confusing information. Isn't there a standard way to handle common card problems so a person knows what to do, rather than having to guess your method?
Everything you mentioned is how you handle them. I try to show you everything I know how to do. There's not one simple way. It's all predicated on the type of material the card is made out of. If there's something specific you need advice on you can send me a picture on Instagram
I would try to fix creases in those cards using some humidity for few hours and then try the heat table (the one they use for shirt ironing or try an low setting iron with teflon sheet on each side. Since it is plastic it make "melt' the crease away, hopefully. I have never done it so let me know what happens. PLEASE TEST ON A CHEAP BASE CARD first. @@sb_mochi5318
Thanks for asking. I charge everybody the same. If you need anything or have any other questions, let me know. Purchases can be made on my website www.kurtscardcare.com
It's the same process for wood floors....however.....I wouldn't do it to anything good. Introducing moisture ..changes the problem...doesn't get rid of it. Mr. Mint had a line of card care products 40 years ago. I saw this process back at a show 30 years ago...nothing new to the hobby. A rehash
@LamBeau Leeper mad that ppl are getting suckered in by a bottle of water and a jar of Vasiline getting passed off as card products? Probably not. More envious then anything.
He didn't say he invented it. Resharing content of thing known is a useful thing, not a bad one. It gets knowledge to new people. Glad to have seen this video myself .. even if it wasn't anything new to the hobby 🙄
I’ve seen mild heat and force used with a Rosinbomb heat press and results were amazing
That awesome I'm sure easier than an iron and wax paper
When do you decide to clamp or not clamp? Some vintage videos you clamp the acrylic, other you don’t. Is it based on how severe the creases are?
This is so helpful
Wow. This is interesting!
how soon after you dab the card with the cotton applicator do you put it between the sleeves?
Typically right after, it’s all one process
What’s in the spray? Can I gain same result with distilled water instead of spray? Thanks 😊
Do some experiments, it’s possible. I use humidity for certain issues too.
Do you clamp it the second time you put it between the glass plates?
I was wondering if you'd maybe be able to help me out. I bought a 2015 topps mini chrome Emmitt smith auto, that has a hairline crease on the back, but the front is fine. What would you recommend to help with the back crease?
I’m not sure, I don’t know if that is something that could go away. If you have another 2015 Topps mini chrome you might want to try soaking it to see if it can handle that. I don’t think there’s another way. I’m not even sure if that would work, but if you’re an Instagram, you can send me a picture.
@@kurtscardcare ok thank you for the response! It's gonna be delivered in the mail today so I'll send a dm with a picture. Worst case scenario I just deal with it and enjoy the card in its condition
1:03 pm Are you able to do the same with a newer card that's a Swatch?
Does this workw ith holographic pokemon cards as well? does it damage the artwork? the texture? anything?
I have a gengar ex full art from phantom forces it has a short crease on its side
Similar but you have to use less moisture and I have demonstrations like this on my TCG playlist watch the first couple videos. 🤙🏼
Do you know if this would work on Modern cards like Prizm and Optic?
@@matthewmolina3326 I can show you some cool stuff on modern cards. The front of modern cards like prizm and optic will not change but I can show you how to get dungs out of the back. I have a playlist right here on UA-cam called “dings and dents”
@@kurtscardcare thanks I’ll check that out!
Will this process work well with modern cards? Quality control is terrible with retail.
Most modern era stuff is plastic, so it doesn’t have the same materials. Doesn’t work the exact same way.
What other ways is there for plastic?
Heavy books maybe?
Do you had link to the plastic circles you use?
www.kurtscardcare.com/products-we-love
When sending out for grading would these be considered “pressed” cards?
@@douglasmckinley-sr1507 no, that’s a good question but you don’t wanna smash them down. You just wanna get them back into the original shape. If you have a pressed card, I can show you how to get it back to its original condition.
I ask about a standard method for handling common card problems because I tried to method recommended in this video for creases and my card actually ended up worse than it started.
Not all cardboard is created equal for the various cards and all sets arent made with the same type of material for vintage products. Especially back in the old days for the vintage products, some old cards get wrecked from the soak and dont hold up disintegrating while others turn out amazing . It just depends what set and era its from and how good the cardstock or cardboard was, that the product was created / printed on. Its no different from Prizm nowadays vs the cheaper modern sets that use similar, but not equal plastic material for the cards. Prizm is built stronger and is a higher end mainstream card easier to repair and the cheaper sets are made on weaker material hents the price difference on the open market, as well as at hobby or retail stores. Cheaper the product , the cheaper the material. Now for old cards its a crap shoot, just trial and error for sets. Im sure kurt here has ruined hundreds if not thousands of cards from various sets testing his products while they were under development and knows which sets hold up better for refurbishment. Id test on cheap cards from whatever set your more expensive card your repairing is from , that way you can gauge how well itll hold up while being repaired! Hope that helps and your able to repair your cards next time around. Take care. ---- Nate- @Cardcitysports
@@Cardcitysportsdang it truly is just trial and error. If I Have a broad array from say 1935-1989 Topps bowman Philadelphia fleer would you recommend just getting a card from every year and from every brand I have and just trying that way?
I use a household iron with the steam setting.
@@erikolsen3838 does it work well?
@@kurtscardcare not really
@@erikolsen3838 your method is going in the right direction with steam I just think you can do without the heat. I like using small amounts of spray like this with light retention; it usually improves. Most creases suck and don't go away 100% but ill take the improvement and I just like doing the process. Talk to you next time -Kurt
Where do you get the clamps?
Here’s a link to all the accessories I use
www.kurtscardcare.com/products-we-love
Kurt where can I get the card spray at
www.kurtscardcare.com
Why no foam pads this time?
@@joeymak2000 good question. I was just using a little light amount of moisture so it wasn’t very wet. But I found that using the pads usually produces better results. But if you’re going to work on a few things with light moisture, you can do it like this.
I did this with my Ozzie smith card. I put it between the two glass plates and when I came back and took it out the bottom right corner ripped off the white paint and stuck to the glass. It ruined my card. It cost me about $1800. Why did it stick to the glass and yours didn’t?
@@OANDPJAFO I appreciate the question. I’m sorry to hear about the situation. Did you use the oversize penny sleeves until the card was 100% dry? if not, the card will have moisture in it and it will stick to the plastic. Those big plastic penny sleeves are what I use to prevent it from sticking.
@@kurtscardcarei did it over night and then put it between the two plexi glass in the morning. I guess it didn’t dry all the way. Why not switch out the plastic with new plastic for the second half? Why touch the glass at all?
@@OANDPJAFO I’m sorry again to hear that. You can keep it between the sleeves the whole time. This card dried quickly. And when it’s dry, it’s not an issue.
If you’re gonna work on something new, I don’t want you to be nervous. If you’re on Instagram, why don’t you send me a request or a direct message and show me a picture of something then I can give you some tips first. I’ll make sure you don’t mess anything up moving forward. I appreciate you sharing this.
does this work with pokemon cards i got a creased Stoutland V
Unfortunately, not. I wish.
does this work on yugioh cards ?
Yes, Check out my TCG playlist. I have some Yu-Gi-Oh on there 👍🏼
Kurt, I like your videos but it's hard to tell what to do for a card problem. For example, for creases, like this video, you have about 5 different ways to fix it. You could use card spray, put it in between acrylic discs with penny sleeves in between, you also show not using clamps or penny sleeves for creases, then you show using a humidor and trying to "massage" the creases out, then another way has you just using spray and trying to get the creases out without any clamps. It seems like confusing information. Isn't there a standard way to handle common card problems so a person knows what to do, rather than having to guess your method?
Everything you mentioned is how you handle them. I try to show you everything I know how to do. There's not one simple way. It's all predicated on the type of material the card is made out of. If there's something specific you need advice on you can send me a picture on Instagram
does this work for hollow Pokémon cards?
Unfortunately, not, I can never get wrinkles out of Pokémon cards. My TCG playlist shows how to clean them, but creases are usually permanent.
oh man. i’m cursing my past self rn 😭😭 i have a card worth a lot of money but it has two creases in it, sobbing on the floor
@@sb_mochi5318 if I had a plan, I promise I would share it
what card is it @@sb_mochi5318
I would try to fix creases in those cards using some humidity for few hours and then try the heat table (the one they use for shirt ironing or try an low setting iron with teflon sheet on each side. Since it is plastic it make "melt' the crease away, hopefully. I have never done it so let me know what happens. PLEASE TEST ON A CHEAP BASE CARD first. @@sb_mochi5318
Try to send it to the grading company? PSA? Maybe they will give you a little bit higher grade? 🤣
id love to buy some. could you possibly give me a discount for my first purchase? i'll buy some right away !
Thanks for asking. I charge everybody the same. If you need anything or have any other questions, let me know. Purchases can be made on my website www.kurtscardcare.com
First 🥇
It's the same process for wood floors....however.....I wouldn't do it to anything good. Introducing moisture ..changes the problem...doesn't get rid of it. Mr. Mint had a line of card care products 40 years ago. I saw this process back at a show 30 years ago...nothing new to the hobby. A rehash
Lol you mad? 😂😂
@LamBeau Leeper mad that ppl are getting suckered in by a bottle of water and a jar of Vasiline getting passed off as card products? Probably not. More envious then anything.
He didn't say he invented it. Resharing content of thing known is a useful thing, not a bad one. It gets knowledge to new people.
Glad to have seen this video myself .. even if it wasn't anything new to the hobby 🙄
That it's a big help already
Can used acrylic to replace the glass sir?
These are plastic/acrylic discs 6 inch diameter eighth of an inch thick