You do a great job explaining. You do a truly beginner video. Not assuming people know the little things like so many others do. I will be back to watch!
Wow, very professional vid.! Much better (& more useful) than others I’ve watched. My only suggestion would be to paint both beadboard & edge moulding after dry fit but before installation. This will save time taping edges. You’ll still need to fill & paint nail holes, but that’s required either way.
great idea about the outlet cover, will be using that tomorrow, thanks!!! And the finished job looks great. I thought I'd have to use picture mould or wainscot moulding on it, but yours looks good, might try that.
This video is so excellent! I have one suggestion though: START the beadboard near the tub, so that the shorter piece and seam is closer to the door. That way it won't be as noticable. :)
Best explanation on outlet cutout and re-install. That has been hard since I am a beginner. Would like to see how you handle where the boards meet in a corner. How do you handle that? Thanks!
If it's an interior corner I just end it and add caulk in the corner. Now if it is ending at a corner or edge, I would add a piece of 1" trim with a beveled edge to end the beadboard. There is an example of this in the middle of this blog post in a photo that you can see (not my blog post, but its helpful): www.oneprojectcloser.com/how-to-install-beadboard-wainscoting/
Thanks for a detailed video. I have a craft room 8'x7', which i am planning to add the bead panels. How do you suggest handling the corners? If two walls meeting at a corner and both needs to be put bead board?
I am planning on doing something similar but on the top half putting some flat paneling. My current wall is very textured. Would it look strange installed with the bottom board and top being the same depth?
If it was me, I would do it after that way the boards don't go over top the wallpaper. That way, if you ever decided to remove the wall paper, you could peel it off without having to pop the accent wall off.
Great video! I’m curious about how you finished around the windows since they don’t appear to have trim? I looked at the blog post you linked in the other comment question about corners but it doesn’t show how to handle windows without trim. Thanks!
Correct, I do not have trim around the windows. I caulked the seem/edge where the beadboard panel ends at the window and painted it and it looks great. If you go to this blog post, and go down about 25% of the page, I have a photo of the window and you can see how the panel just ends at the window. mrsashleyfrench.com/blog-archives/laundry-room-essentials-creating-a-functional-and-efficient-space?rq=laundry
Nice work it looks great and thanks for sharing the outlet box trade secret. Question: Everyone installs the baseboard first but what if the floor in uneven.
I would use a level when installing the baseboard and make sure the baseboard is level, even if that means it leaves a little gap between the flooring and the baseboard. If there ends up being a noticeable gap between the floor and baseboard that bothers you, then I would suggest using quarter-round molding to go on the floor against the baseboard to cover and hide the gap. I don't have a video showing how to add the quarter-round but I am sure there are lots of video on here that can teach you how :)
Hey! We used your video to do wainscotting in our nursery and it turned out better than I could have imagined. Did you by chance prime your walls before painting? Using a different green but from Sherwin Williams. Thank you!
I can think of two options - You can use construction adhesive to attach the panels to the walls. Or you can install furring strips to the brick. The furring strips will require you to get a special masonry drill bit, anchors and screws to drill into the brick and attach the furring strips. Once the furring strips are up, then you can attach the accent wall to the furring strips. If it was me, I would be the construction adhesive.
The top horizontal board was just installed using my brad nail gun. The peg rack behind me is a separate piece that I unfortunately don't have a video for but you should be able to find plenty of tutorials on how to made a peg rack. I didn't attach any hooks to the actual accent wall.
My walls are very uneven so I’m struggling on holding the board where it needs to be and nailing, also struggling with lining up the next board without a gap 😢
I'm sorry about that! You could always cut the boards down into smaller sections so the pieces are easier to hold up. Since the pattern on the panels makes it easy to match up, you can go with smaller sections (they don't need to be 48" wide like mine). Also, do you have a baseboard that you are able to prop the piece up on to help hold it up against the wall? If not, you could use a scrap piece of wood, a block, stack of books, anything really to prop the panel up on to help hold some of the weight while you shift it into place and get it lined up and nailed in.
So I have done this same beadboard accent wall a couple times over the years and typically I just place the 1x4 right on top/above the beadboard and then caulk the seam between them. This particular wall that I made the video with, we actually used a router table and routed out a small channel/groove on the back of the 1x4 so that it would sit slightly flush over the beadboard a hair. It is not necessary at all to do it this way and I didn't include it in the video because I thought it was a little advance and most people don't have a router.
Question : beadboard height: you decided to cut the 4 x 8 sheet in half giving you 48 inches the baseboard I think is 6 inches and your top trim pieces 4 inches so ?58” floor two top of trim? What is the height of your ceiling… I have an 8 foot ceiling so trying to understand the best proportions. Some people say either one third or 2/3 height of the ceiling yours looks really good but I have heard you don’t want to make it exactly exactly 50% of the wall height can you clarify on that please
I'm sorry, I didn't see your comment sooner! Yes, the total height from floor to top of board is 58". My ceilings are 8ft. So technically it is pretty close to being 2/3 of the wall. But I have never followed that rule exactly :)
The board comes in a length of 96" and I cut it exactly in half so that I would get two equal pieces of the board with a height of 48". Then I used a 6" baseboard on the bottom and a 4" board for the top trim so the total height from my flooring to the top of the accent wall is 58".
@@mrsashleyfrench This is so helpful, I’m definitely got lots of inspiration from you and I will try this in my house this weekend! I appreciate your response 🥳❤️
I am using a Brad nailer that does not hook up to an air tank. It does have a pressure dial on it and I typically keep it in the middle of the dial. However, if I notice my brad nails are sticking out of the wall a little after I drive them in, then I turn the pressure dial up more for more power so the nails are completing into the wood/paneling flush.
@@mrsashleyfrench It’s over some plumbing that had a leak that was repaired. Would it be against code or anything to put in a little door in case it needs to be accessed again?
@@nicolecoleman5667 I can't speak to codes but I'd think that as long as you have a way to access it, it would be fine. I think a little door would be perfect. Also, if you just use brad nails on the beadboard and not adhesive (which is how I do it), then you could always easily pull the beadboard off the wall in the future if you ever needed to access it.
Typically you would just rest it on the top edge of the beadboard and NOT over the beadboard. But in this laundry room, we did use a router to route out a groove in the bottom of the board so that when we rested it on the top of the beadboard, there was actually a bit of the board that hung over the beadboard due to the groove we routed into it. This is not necessary at all. Just rest your horizontal board on the top of the beadboard and fill the gap/seam that is seen with caulk :)
excellent video. One thing I have noticed is you didn't add the thickness of the blade when you measured out where you are cutting. I believe 1/8 is for a table saw while the miter box saw can be 1/16 in thickness. Just letting you know. Love the video :D
If you mean, how easy is it to pull the boards off the wall, if you haven't caulked the edges you can just give the boards a really good tug and you'll be able to pull them off the wall. If you have caulked the edges, then you would want to use a carpet knife to cut between the caulk and wall and then pull the boards off. I like to use a trim puller also to pull the boards off.
@mrsashleyfrench awesome thank you. Great video by the way. I ask because my wife and I live in an apartment and we have a baby on the way and I would like to do this in the nursery so I wanted to see if it was easily removed (renter friendly)
@@luke50469 If you are renting, I would just skip the caulking where the boards meet the wall. Then the boards will pull off pretty easily and you'll only be left with tiny holes in the wall from the brad nails that can be filled with nail hole filler or maybe even just paint.
@mrsashleyfrench that's what I was thinking too! Thank you again for your input and making am awesome video explaining everything very thoroughly. I'm subscribed now!
My Home Depot would not cut for me, FYI. I was told its their store policy not to cut mdf (1: hard to get a clean cut, 2: dulls their blade)...I've had them cut plenty for me before but never mdf. Otherwise thanks for the tutorial!
Oh no, that stinks! It must just be that area or location because both of the HD in my town will cut MDF for us. Maybe try Lowes, they also sell this beadboard paneling.
Nice tips; however if you are using a bradnailer/nail gun & find that your nails are not going all the way in, it indicates that you need to increase the pressure setting on your brad nailer/nail gun air tank, NOT USE SHORTER BRADS/NAILS!
Normally, yes I would agree with you. My nails were sticking out on the wall that is an exterior wall. My exterior wall is a concrete block wall with only furring strips and then the drywall. Increasing the pressure on the nail gun would not have helped in this situation. I had to switch to smaller nails on this wall since the nails were hitting the concrete wall and not able to go into the concrete. I could have definitely explained this a bit better in the video.
@@mrsashleyfrench lol! I didn't look at the posting time haha. Well at any rate, I owe you for literally redoing my whole house 🫡 well done. I hope you get many more subscribers
Yes!! I never ever recommend using adhesive. It will ruin the wall behind the panels if you ever decide to remove them to do something different. I have been on the receiving side of removing old panel and having the adhesive rip off the drywall behind it, turning a small project into a huge project and repair. I only use brad nails to attach my panels so that it causes no damage to the wall underneath.
Tape on the outlet cover, never seen that before. Life saver! Thank you.
HOLY SHIT THE OUTLET TAPE TRICK JUST CHANGED MY LIFE
Isn't it great! So simple and effective!
This is probably the BEST tutorial I've ever seen of this kind! You answered all of my questions and I actually feel like I can do it! thank you!
I'm so happy it was helpful!
I even used it for the heating vents which were much heavier, but it worked, couldn’t believe it lol!!!
These instructions are so freaking good. Short and simple and to the point! Thanks a ton!
You're welcome! :)
Very clever idea ever with the painters tape and outlet cover!Thank you!!
Straight to the point, practical tips, no fluff-this is the best video on the topic so far!
Thank you so much! I appreciate that!
Great Job! Only women can appreciate such great details.
Thank you!
Hands down THE BEST tutorial for this project. I feel ready to tackle this because of it, so THANK YOU!!!
I'm so glad it was helpful!
Love the idea of having the board cut in the store.
Me too! Just have to make sure you watch the employees and they cut it correctly lol :)
You do a great job explaining. You do a truly beginner video. Not assuming people know the little things like so many others do. I will be back to watch!
Thank you! That was my goal :)
It’s super helpful to say how the beadboard will not fit in truck beds . It saves us so much and it! 😊😂
Just depends on the truck :) It wouldn't fit in ours.
Genius on outlet cutout. Great job explaining it all. Thanks
This is the best tutorial I have seen. Thanks so much. You didn't bloat it up and gave step by step clear instructions
Thank you so much!!
GREAT tutorial! The best I've come across yet.
Thank you so much!
This makes me feel like I could actually do this!!! Amazing tutorial, thanks so much!!!
Thank you! If I can do it, you can too!!
Wow, very professional vid.! Much better (& more useful) than others I’ve watched. My only suggestion would be to paint both beadboard & edge moulding after dry fit but before installation. This will save time taping edges. You’ll still need to fill & paint nail holes, but that’s required either way.
This was very helpful! I'm about to do my first DYI project of installing beadboard.
I'm so happy it helped! Let me know if you have any questions!
Just put beadboard in my kitchen! Your video was very helpful!
I'm so glad it could be helpful! :)
This switch plate hack is amazing it worked so well!!!!
Thank you! I have found it to be the easiest way!
Loved this! I am going to do this around my back door entrance and this was explained so well!! Thank you!
I'm glad it was helpful!
So clear and well paced. Thank you!
Thank you! :)
Great video, really liked the tip about putting tape on outlet covers to find the place to cut. Thank you.
Thank you! That trick has worked great for me!
Thank you. Your explanation/instructions were easy to follow.
thanks so much - didn't know about the tape making it so easy and the electrical extenders which I ordered on amazon......great video
thank you!
Thank you so much for sharing your method of installation. I can't wait to use it on my bedroom. 😊
You are welcome! I hope it was helpful!
You go girl! I'm so proud of you!!
Thank you so much!
great idea about the outlet cover, will be using that tomorrow, thanks!!! And the finished job looks great. I thought I'd have to use picture mould or wainscot moulding on it, but yours looks good, might try that.
Thank you! It's a great trick! :)
You are brilliant. Love your idea about the double sided tape
Thank you so much!
Perfect! I'm installing some in a guest bathroom. Appreciate the video!
Thank you! I hope it was helpful :)
Thanks!
Of course! Thank you!!
This video is so excellent! I have one suggestion though: START the beadboard near the tub, so that the shorter piece and seam is closer to the door. That way it won't be as noticable. :)
That is a great tip!!
Really cool cutting ideas! Great video. Thanks!
Thank you!
Great Job tape on the outlet cover thanks for the tip
I hope it helped :)
Looks so nice!
Thank you!
well explained and your tape trick was very cool
Thank you!
Great job. Looks really nice
Best explanation on outlet cutout and re-install. That has been hard since I am a beginner. Would like to see how you handle where the boards meet in a corner. How do you handle that? Thanks!
If it's an interior corner I just end it and add caulk in the corner. Now if it is ending at a corner or edge, I would add a piece of 1" trim with a beveled edge to end the beadboard. There is an example of this in the middle of this blog post in a photo that you can see (not my blog post, but its helpful): www.oneprojectcloser.com/how-to-install-beadboard-wainscoting/
Brilliant! I’m so excited to give it a try!
Best video! So helpful 🫶🏻
Thank you!
Good job! Love the color too!
KILLED IT - Jusy earned a subscriber!!!
Thank you so much!!
Excellent directions, thank you.
You rock Ashley
Thank you!!
Such a great job, thank you !
Thanks for a detailed video. I have a craft room 8'x7', which i am planning to add the bead panels. How do you suggest handling the corners? If two walls meeting at a corner and both needs to be put bead board?
I would just butt the boards up together in the corner and caulk the corner like you would where two boards meet.
Thanks! Everything I needed to know.
I am planning on doing something similar but on the top half putting some flat paneling. My current wall is very textured. Would it look strange installed with the bottom board and top being the same depth?
No I don't think it will look strange at all if they are the same depth. It will look great!
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. How do I install bead panels over tile? Thabks
I would suggest using a construction adhesive on the back of the beadboard and basically glue them to the tile.
This is so helpful, thank you
You're welcome!
Fantastic! Thank you so much!
Awesome tutorial!
Thank you!
If I’m doing wallpaper, should I do it before or after the beanboard and trim molding?
If it was me, I would do it after that way the boards don't go over top the wallpaper. That way, if you ever decided to remove the wall paper, you could peel it off without having to pop the accent wall off.
All I can say is thank you!❤
You're welcome!
Thanks for your video! The explanation is very good. Could you tell me which cap rail you used?
I just used 1"x4" primed pine boards for the top horizontal boards above the beadboard.
Great video! I’m curious about how you finished around the windows since they don’t appear to have trim? I looked at the blog post you linked in the other comment question about corners but it doesn’t show how to handle windows without trim. Thanks!
Correct, I do not have trim around the windows. I caulked the seem/edge where the beadboard panel ends at the window and painted it and it looks great. If you go to this blog post, and go down about 25% of the page, I have a photo of the window and you can see how the panel just ends at the window. mrsashleyfrench.com/blog-archives/laundry-room-essentials-creating-a-functional-and-efficient-space?rq=laundry
I can't find the paint color you mentioned on Sherwin Williams website? You said the color is Sherwin Williams "Valley Floor", right?
Yes, unfortunately SW has discontinued the color :(
Thanks so much, great ideas
How do you handle corners? We are planning on doing this in our mudroom where we have inverted corners and corners that box out.
Hi there, I'm not sure what inverted corners are? Are they rounded? Otherwise I just butt the two panels together in the corner and caulk the seam.
@@mrsashleyfrenchThank you!
Great video!!!
Thank you!
Nice work it looks great and thanks for sharing the outlet box trade secret. Question: Everyone installs the baseboard first but what if the floor in uneven.
I would use a level when installing the baseboard and make sure the baseboard is level, even if that means it leaves a little gap between the flooring and the baseboard. If there ends up being a noticeable gap between the floor and baseboard that bothers you, then I would suggest using quarter-round molding to go on the floor against the baseboard to cover and hide the gap. I don't have a video showing how to add the quarter-round but I am sure there are lots of video on here that can teach you how :)
@@mrsashleyfrench great idea. Thanks!
My walls arent 90, finding it tough to connect 2 boards. Any tips?
Do you put the boarder on top of the beadboard or do you cover the headboard just a little?
You would want to set the board right on top, nail it into the wall and then do a bead of caulk between the beadboard panel and the top trim.
Hey! We used your video to do wainscotting in our nursery and it turned out better than I could have imagined.
Did you by chance prime your walls before painting? Using a different green but from Sherwin Williams.
Thank you!
I am so happy it turned out great for you!! :) I typically do not prime unless it is raw drywall or I am covering stains.
What if the wall behind is brick what do you use instead of nails
I can think of two options - You can use construction adhesive to attach the panels to the walls. Or you can install furring strips to the brick. The furring strips will require you to get a special masonry drill bit, anchors and screws to drill into the brick and attach the furring strips. Once the furring strips are up, then you can attach the accent wall to the furring strips. If it was me, I would be the construction adhesive.
Is there a way to fill in the seems that transition to a new board? I feel like it still is slightly seen and that would drive me crazy. Any tips?
Once it’s painted they aren’t seen at all. You can’t tell where one board ends and another begins 😃
I should add, I added a thin bead of caulk where the two panels meet. So once it’s painted, you don’t see anything at all.
Did you prime the boards before painting them?
Everything I used came already primed :) But if you do buy any boards that are raw wood, you'd want to prime them first.
How did you add the top / hooks?
The top horizontal board was just installed using my brad nail gun. The peg rack behind me is a separate piece that I unfortunately don't have a video for but you should be able to find plenty of tutorials on how to made a peg rack. I didn't attach any hooks to the actual accent wall.
Question. What is the best method to paint the boards for an even finish?
I first used a 2inch angled brush and painted into all the vertical grooves and along the edges first. Then I painted the rest with a paint roller.
@@mrsashleyfrench What type of paint finish did you use on the beadboard? Satin or semi-gloss?
@@toddhenderson3787 I used Satin.
Nicely done
My walls are very uneven so I’m struggling on holding the board where it needs to be and nailing, also struggling with lining up the next board without a gap 😢
I'm sorry about that! You could always cut the boards down into smaller sections so the pieces are easier to hold up. Since the pattern on the panels makes it easy to match up, you can go with smaller sections (they don't need to be 48" wide like mine). Also, do you have a baseboard that you are able to prop the piece up on to help hold it up against the wall? If not, you could use a scrap piece of wood, a block, stack of books, anything really to prop the panel up on to help hold some of the weight while you shift it into place and get it lined up and nailed in.
Does the 1x4 overlap on the beadboard or is it placed directly above the beadboard?
So I have done this same beadboard accent wall a couple times over the years and typically I just place the 1x4 right on top/above the beadboard and then caulk the seam between them. This particular wall that I made the video with, we actually used a router table and routed out a small channel/groove on the back of the 1x4 so that it would sit slightly flush over the beadboard a hair. It is not necessary at all to do it this way and I didn't include it in the video because I thought it was a little advance and most people don't have a router.
Question : beadboard height: you decided to cut the 4 x 8 sheet in half giving you 48 inches the baseboard I think is 6 inches and your top trim pieces 4 inches so ?58” floor two top of trim?
What is the height of your ceiling… I have an 8 foot ceiling so trying to understand the best proportions. Some people say either one third or 2/3 height of the ceiling yours looks really good but I have heard you don’t want to make it exactly exactly 50% of the wall height can you clarify on that please
I'm sorry, I didn't see your comment sooner! Yes, the total height from floor to top of board is 58". My ceilings are 8ft. So technically it is pretty close to being 2/3 of the wall. But I have never followed that rule exactly :)
You got a link to all the tools needed for this job ?
All of them are linked in the description of the video.
Great video! What size boards did you use for your baseboards?
Thanks! I used just 6" primed prime boards for our baseboards.
Great tutorial!! If you don’t mind, what’s the height of the board?
The board comes in a length of 96" and I cut it exactly in half so that I would get two equal pieces of the board with a height of 48". Then I used a 6" baseboard on the bottom and a 4" board for the top trim so the total height from my flooring to the top of the accent wall is 58".
@@mrsashleyfrench This is so helpful, I’m definitely got lots of inspiration from you and I will try this in my house this weekend! I appreciate your response 🥳❤️
What air pressure do you have the nail gun on? (I just got the same nail gun and doing the same thing)
I am using a Brad nailer that does not hook up to an air tank. It does have a pressure dial on it and I typically keep it in the middle of the dial. However, if I notice my brad nails are sticking out of the wall a little after I drive them in, then I turn the pressure dial up more for more power so the nails are completing into the wood/paneling flush.
Thanks this was one of the most helpful videos I’ve seen! What color is your wall paint btw?
I’m sorry I didn’t see your comment before. The wall color is Valley Floor by Sherwin Williams
If there is a hole in a wall, do you need to replace the drywall first, before putting in beadboard? Or can smallish holes be fine behind it?
I would just put the beadboard right over the hole. No need to fix the hole.
@@mrsashleyfrench It’s over some plumbing that had a leak that was repaired. Would it be against code or anything to put in a little door in case it needs to be accessed again?
@@nicolecoleman5667 I can't speak to codes but I'd think that as long as you have a way to access it, it would be fine. I think a little door would be perfect. Also, if you just use brad nails on the beadboard and not adhesive (which is how I do it), then you could always easily pull the beadboard off the wall in the future if you ever needed to access it.
Alrighty, thanks! :)
Did you put your topper board OVER (on top of) the bead board or at the top edge of the bead board?
Typically you would just rest it on the top edge of the beadboard and NOT over the beadboard. But in this laundry room, we did use a router to route out a groove in the bottom of the board so that when we rested it on the top of the beadboard, there was actually a bit of the board that hung over the beadboard due to the groove we routed into it. This is not necessary at all. Just rest your horizontal board on the top of the beadboard and fill the gap/seam that is seen with caulk :)
What paint color is this? Looks great.
Thank you! It was called Valley Floor by Sherwin Williams but I don't think they make it anymore.
It looks really close to Sherwin Williams Evergreen Fog.
@@TrueBeliever-gm8sn Yes, it is super close!
The drywall that is not covered, did you use a water proof paint sealer? Or just regular indoor paint?
I just used regular, interior paint in a satin sheen.
Awesome thanks so much.
What color did you paint it?? I love it!
This is Valley Floor by Sherwin Williams.
Thank you so much!! this is gonna help me so much @@mrsashleyfrench
excellent video. One thing I have noticed is you didn't add the thickness of the blade when you measured out where you are cutting. I believe 1/8 is for a table saw while the miter box saw can be 1/16 in thickness. Just letting you know. Love the video :D
Thank you!
How easy is it to remove with the nails in place?
If you mean, how easy is it to pull the boards off the wall, if you haven't caulked the edges you can just give the boards a really good tug and you'll be able to pull them off the wall. If you have caulked the edges, then you would want to use a carpet knife to cut between the caulk and wall and then pull the boards off. I like to use a trim puller also to pull the boards off.
@mrsashleyfrench awesome thank you.
Great video by the way.
I ask because my wife and I live in an apartment and we have a baby on the way and I would like to do this in the nursery so I wanted to see if it was easily removed (renter friendly)
@@luke50469 If you are renting, I would just skip the caulking where the boards meet the wall. Then the boards will pull off pretty easily and you'll only be left with tiny holes in the wall from the brad nails that can be filled with nail hole filler or maybe even just paint.
@mrsashleyfrench that's what I was thinking too! Thank you again for your input and making am awesome video explaining everything very thoroughly. I'm subscribed now!
Is your baseboard 1 x 4 also?
My baseboards are 1”x6” primed pine boards.
Fantastic!
Brilliant!
Why not paint the paneling before installation
You totally could. Whatever you prefer!
That's why you take the baseboard off and run the paneling to the floor, nail baseboard over paneling.
My Home Depot would not cut for me, FYI. I was told its their store policy not to cut mdf (1: hard to get a clean cut, 2: dulls their blade)...I've had them cut plenty for me before but never mdf. Otherwise thanks for the tutorial!
Oh no, that stinks! It must just be that area or location because both of the HD in my town will cut MDF for us. Maybe try Lowes, they also sell this beadboard paneling.
You must be from Wisconsin or Illinois. You have the accent. I'm guessing towards Kenosha maybe or Milwaukee
haha really? I am born and raised in FL. Have lived here my whole life.
I don’t have and don’t know how to use that saw.
Nice tips; however if you are using a bradnailer/nail gun & find that your nails are not going all the way in, it indicates that you need to increase the pressure setting on your brad nailer/nail gun air tank, NOT USE SHORTER BRADS/NAILS!
Normally, yes I would agree with you. My nails were sticking out on the wall that is an exterior wall. My exterior wall is a concrete block wall with only furring strips and then the drywall. Increasing the pressure on the nail gun would not have helped in this situation. I had to switch to smaller nails on this wall since the nails were hitting the concrete wall and not able to go into the concrete. I could have definitely explained this a bit better in the video.
You could benefit from a dedicated microphone. Would improve your audio 😊
I’ve got one now! This video was recorded 3 years ago 😅
@@mrsashleyfrench lol! I didn't look at the posting time haha. Well at any rate, I owe you for literally redoing my whole house 🫡 well done. I hope you get many more subscribers
Nice work sandals! Lol jk good video, thx!
Thanks! :)
Another person not using construction adhesion to attach the panels😢
Yes!! I never ever recommend using adhesive. It will ruin the wall behind the panels if you ever decide to remove them to do something different. I have been on the receiving side of removing old panel and having the adhesive rip off the drywall behind it, turning a small project into a huge project and repair. I only use brad nails to attach my panels so that it causes no damage to the wall underneath.
@mrsashleyfrench wall is already a mess. Lol
SUB! 😁
How do you handle corners? We are planning on doing this in our mudroom where we have inverted corners and corners that box out.