Sealing Can Lights | Saving Energy with Can Light Covers
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- www.drenergysav... | 1-888-225-6260
Can or recessed lights are a popular choice when it comes to lighting fixtures. They are also a big source of energy waste in a home. Can light fixtures are typically full of holes and gaps which will allow your conditioned air to leak out of the conditioned area and into the attic.
When the lights are on, the heat of a typical light bulb will create a convection and even more conditioned air will leak out.
Larry Janesky at the Dr. Energy Saver's Energy City -- a 40,000 sq.ft energy conservation training facility located in Seymour, Connecticut -- shows us a few different approaches to can light sealing and discuss proper procedures.
Can light fixtures vary in size and shape, so there is no one-size-fits-all approach to covering them. Sometimes you can simply install and seal a manufactured cover purchased in a hardware store, but some fixtures might require a custom made cover for a perfect fit.
Can light covers are not only important to conserve energy, but they are also needed for safety reasons. The heat generated by light bulbs cause the fixture itself to become very hot, and with all the wiring, they can turn into a fire hazard if in contact with the lose fill insulation in the attic. Recessed light covers need to be made with non-flammable, fire-resistant materials.
To learn more about saving energy through proper lighting and lighting fixture treatment, visit our website or call us for a free, in-home estimate. We will show you many ways to save money, energy and make your home more comfortable all year round!
Can often use a garden (fired) clay pot over the cans. Invert it over the can. If it has a drainage hole, place the matching saucer over that. Then insulate the whole thing.
As noted by others, the video should have mentioned using IC rated cans. Can insulate over them.
That’s a lot of weight sitting on the drywall !
@@bluesdirt6555 No. The clay pot is not heavy. It is a clever solution for avoiding drafts.
@@ownpetard8379 My kitchen has six cans in a 6 x 8 ft. Area and the lights are at least 10 “ tall that’s a lot of clay pots
@@bluesdirt6555 So, 6 clay pots. Fired but not glazed - less weight.
My issue is not weight but the space needed for 6 pots given the need to clear 10 inches. Setting aside that that is a lot of light - each with a 10 inch can - for such a small area, then seal 4 of the six with clay pots, and use another means for the other 2. Will be far cheaper than a commercial solution. You're welcome!
Oh, yeah, check if they are IC rated in which case you can insulate over them.
Hi Both, There are two issues involved here. First the savings you are trying to achieve are nothing against those you'd get by simply changing the bulb to a low energy unit. Secondly, the bulbs you're using need an airflow to keep cool. On the other hand low energy bulbs do not generate anywhere near the heat of a conventional bulb. Hence sealing becomes a lot simpler and safer. Regards.
A couple problems: avoiding safety and litigation liability requires complying with building code and manufacturer safety specifications - both of which are in place for good reason. Using your suggestions a subsequent homeowner who re-installed a high temperature incandescent bulb would then enjoy greater risk and liability. Secondly, you said the savings are nothing compared to changing the light bulb. Well, sorry, but no. Not correct. That hole is there 24/7/365.25. Think: hole in a rowboat but, with a house, up-side-down. The boat fills up with water very fast. Everyone was surprised when it was first discovered that air sealing saves as much as it does. So, sorry but you are not aware of the relevant research and standards.
My BFs home has recessed lighting in all rooms... 28 fixtures. Its UNREAL how much heat comes from them. Its summertime now and I truly cannot believe that those little lights are allowing SO MUCH HEAT IN this home. That is actually how I ended up here. Looking for WHY and HOW...
my vaulted ceiling is covered in can lighting. what is the best way to insulater those lighting cans ? possiblly covering the outside where bulb/can trim meets air space in ceiling...???
No need. Tape up the holes with foil tape and switch to LEDs. Blow insulation in the attic and be done with it. The LEDs alone will save you much on the electrical bill
Thanks
Just use LED lights in the fixtures. My LED lights are cool enough that I can put my hand on them and keep it there without being burned. Plus they save energy too.
Do it that way and your endless air leak continues to drain your home of conditioned (heated, cooled) air and if you seal the can your way (without a code-compliant cover) and the next resident puts an incandescent bulb back in then you have created a liability and unnecessary risk.
Just get IC and air tight cans. Juno and Halo both sell them for NC and RM for under 20.00 USD. It would take less time to swap them out if you have non ic/at units installed. The Recessed Lighting can he is holding is not ic/at!
Sealed halo? Might as well just have a hole. Air flows through so much on every one I've seen.
Cans labels "Air tight," "airtight," "airtite," "air tite" cans do not have to comply with an airtight standard and so, surprise surprise, they are simply not airtight. Look at them. There are a lot of holes in them - but less holes than a standard can. Then also look around where they meet/don't meet the drywall. Try it both ways then run a blower door. Measure the cost of air loss over years in various climates and housing stock - or simply trust the work of others who have already done all of that and found that its easiest to slap a cover over it and foam the edges.
can same covering be used for bathroom fans etc ?
You can find something like this on the Avasva page. Full step-by-step instructions right on your desk.
What type of foam do you use for this instance? I've watched more than a few of his videos and he never tells you what kind of foam he is using to seal small crevices off in an attic.
Alicia S you use great stuff fireblock foam. It's about $5 a can at Menards. It averages about 3 to 5 light covers.
Most people are using led recessed units now.... smaller but still need protection from spray foam.... no products for this!
Hey, the rock-wool covers are great...however, being that they are slitted, etc., to allow for wiring and such, which canned-foam-sealant do you recommend for sealing up the slits in the covers???...
code compliant firestopping foam.
work goes much faster with Avasva plans.
can lights are dinosaur lighting
It’s not like you have the window wide open, stop stretching the truth
yes. You are right. But the surprising fact is that when you add up all the holes in all of the can lights located on the top level of a house that the air loss accumulates to a measurable size equivalent to a window - of SOME size (but WAY BIGGER than you would think). But you are right. Its a sales technique but not one done in bad faith. People need to be able to perceive and picture this stuff. So he should have specified how big that window would have to be. fair enough. Here's one for you: got a leaky window? - why does it leak? Well, it leaks because of the parts that don't meet. Well, yes but there is more - there is pressure. From what? From those leaky can lights (and other stuff). When this research was first done they sealed up the basement windows and basement walls and what happened next surprised everyone - the first floor windows leaked more than before. The air leaking out of the top of the house had to come in from somewhere. It had been coming in through the basement windows - now the first floor walls and windows. Its like an old can that required TWO holes for things to flow. So rather than seal up the basement or the first floor FIRST seal up EVERY hole on the uppermost plane of your home. Doing that actually reduces the amount of demand for makeup air coming in your lower floor windows.