Hi Andy, thank you so much for this great video series on the Singer Push Button Foot Pedal. I just recently opened up the pedal from a 401A and found that the carbon discs stacks were an uneven number. So I will be purchasing new discs soon to straighten that out. However before I do that, I had a question about the beige resistor housing unit (the piece that houses the carbon discs)... there is a heat stain on mine (along the side of the left stack), and I didn't know if this compromised the resistor housing unit or not? What are your thoughts on it? Thanks so much again for all your wonderful and informative videos! I hope you have a wonderful day!
Thank you for complimenting my video efforts 😃 I have found this heat stain a few times and here is my take on it: I don't feel it compromises the pedal or discs in any way. My theory is that this is found on pedals that were mounted in the metal bracket up inside a cabinet for use with a knee lever. In my casual survey of those I found the left side of the pedal is usually mounted upward, meaning on the high side of the bracket. I believe that, since heat rises, the left side is taking most of that heat that traps in the metal bracket and under the bottom of the cabinet top, and the right side which is lower down and facing the floor is storing less heat. Just a theory. On about three of these, I found a thin shallow crack along the side (far left) of that heat stain and I repaired that by patching is with an epoxy resin with the hopes it would not widen. As long as no epoxy leaked into the "tube" for the discs this patch worked well and the pedal worked well afterward. I appreciate you watching my channel and enjoyed your question very much. Thank you.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for the quick reply! The information you shared was a great help! The pedal was mounted in a cabinet with a knee leveler control, your description sounds like my situation to a 'T'. 🙂
@@BlackFrostQueen okay good then. For me it shouldn't be any problem that you have that heat stain at all. So rest assured and continue on. Thanks for keeping that machine and service and for watching my channel
Hi Andy, Very informative videos. I've noticed you don't have a capacitator in the pedal. My mother's Singer 185K has suddenly started running at top speed when plugged in. Research on the internet says to remove the capacitator. Will this help if I removed it? The foot pedal is almost exactly like yours.
Thanks for asking an important question, Sadie. Absolutely you should remove any and all capacitors from a vintage foot controller. Not only are they out-dated and no longer needed, but they can also be a fire hazard. Taking them out will let the controller return to variable speed operation. I'm glad you found the video and good luck.
Hi Andy! I have a green singer 15-125. Bakelite foot controller. Trying to adjust for better slow speeds. Got it about right, but adjustments are kinda far inside the ceramic. Can the carbon disc be purchased anywhere? Not sure where to look. Thanks
In the past, there was one place I could buy a carbon tube for the clam-shell style controller and take the carbons from it to add to the vintage controllers. Here is the place, but it has shown backorder for a couple months now www.sewingpartsonline.com/carbon-resistance-unit-singer-618804-003.aspx I made a video about it when I found it ua-cam.com/video/R4JuQ3o9dB0/v-deo.html *******For the heck of it I just checked at another long time seller(06-18-2020) and he shows them in stock! I can't believe it 👀Terry lives on an Island and can only ship on Fridays due to the pandemic, but he will give you 20% off everything you buy from him by 7-31-2020. It's up to you if you want to wait a week+ ship time store.tandtrepair.com/618804003.html?viewfullsite=1 Otherwise, people have been buying used controllers to strip out the carbons, which seems risky as they may be in bad shape, or they just buy a new carbon resistor or better yet an electronic pedal on eBay/Amazon, etc. You can buy them wired for your model in some cases or without a cord and you transfer your old cord into it. Good Luck.
I think they may plug those stack screws to assure they can't ark. I don't know about these first hand but have seen this in industry with motor controllers. More so in DC applications. I think the silicone is a good idea, I thought that even before you said it. Very good videos in this playlist, enjoy watching you work, a real pleasure Andy. I have three 99K's now, one is very sluggish and I suspect I'll be doing this shortly, I think it's going to be a bad one. Have you needed to get parts for these and are parts available short of buying one to cannibalize for the rest?
Thank you Mark. I've also heard this, along with the idea it is to keep the screws from vibrating lose. Either way, it can hurt to silicon over the screw heads. Glad you commented. Take Care.
Hi Andy! Great video series. I recently bought a beautiful old Singer 319W but it's original foot control was doing exactly like this one was doing. Very frustrating to say the least. I took mine all apart tonight, and overall it's in pretty good shape. I had one carbon disk that has a small piece missing out of one edge so I'll probably just take it out of the stack and same for the other side to make them match. Also as soon as I took the cover off of mine I knew someone had it apart before because the little clip you mentioned numerous times was in backwards! This is going to take me a few hours to do but I will be happy if it works as good after I'm done as what yours did. Thanks for making the videos. Oh, are they all the same inside as far as the resistor setup? Like one from a Kenmore looks different externally. Regardless I guess they would all be the same principal though.
Yes, common to find the clip reversed. Carbon resistor pedals are basically the same with slight differences in the arrangement of the stack. You can see a few different Singer pedals in my playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKBc_8gM1ItODgpHFn3NFGX.html I don't work on Kenmore, or other brands so can't advise you about those pedals. They still make some carbon stack replacement pedals but most nowadays are electronic resistor types which are nice for controlling sewing speed. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks! I have swapped out pedals for the electronic ones also, but I figured this one I’d try and fix it to get some more time out of it. Looked like you got good results from doing so. I’ve never used a machine that had a new carbon resistor control or one that had been recently serviced to know just how well they should actually work.
Hey hello Andy so,so so glad to see you back here:) I am in the process of re-wiring this foot pedal. Mine seems to be all metal. I am unable to turn the screws, I have removed the putty added a very small drop of oil with no luck ??? Is WD-40 a good choice? Again so very nice to have you back, You are an awesome teacher
Thanks, Lil. The longer screws behind the putty, right? I think WD40 is OK, but just use a drop on the other end from the screw head. This is where the screw is screwed into the metal with the ring holding the larger contact carbon. I don't think any reason to put it on the screw head. The screw just goes thru a hollow "tube" to get to the other end. Maybe there is a bit of rust, IDK So, do not spray the solvent all over. If you do not have a spout on the WD40 I spray some in a plastic cup and use a dropper, or a tiny brush to get a drop or two where you want it. Good luc, and thanks for still tuning into my channel.
Hi Andy, I have a few of these that I have rewired but not taken apart. I got one that said it was for a 66 but wanted to use for my 15-90 because I thought they were all the same. Now I’m not sure. This one was pretty filthy but I got it cleaned up. I wired it and plugged it in and it overheated. Could this be because of the carbons? If so, I’m guessing I need to pull it completely apart, inspect and clean them. Suggestions? Thank you so much for your wonderful videos! Do you live in the Phoenix area? I’m a 2nd generation native here although I am now living up north. Thank you!
Without opening the ceramic holder and taking the discs out you do not know their condition. Damaged and dirty carbons can cause overheating. An out of adjustment contact spring can allow electricity into the carbon discs when plugged into the outlet and not even in use. The discs are resistors and resistance equals heat. If electric current is entering the discs with no way to pass through to the motor the discs can get overheated. Cleaning the outside of the ceramic holder does not accomplish much. If the inside of the foot pedal is filthy that's usually a sign that the carbon discs need attention. Most of the foot pedals can be used on most of the machines if you have the correct wires for the machine.
I have used Ammonia to get mildew/mold odors out of fabric with great success, it may work on your cord. I bought a 301A about ten years ago for $23 just for the foot pedal. It had the same horrendous basement smell. I have noticed that it dissipated over time. 🤷🏻♂️
That's a good tip, thank you. Somewhere in my storeroom, I have another cord set that is even worse. I put it in a paper bag and threw in some baking soda. I forgot about it until now. I'll have to find it and try the ammonia. I've never used ammonia before so it will be an interesting experiment for me. I appreciate you watching my channel and taking the time to comment. Take care.
Any recommendations for how to get these two small screws that hold the carbon disks in? I cleared the chalky looking stuff out but the screws are not breaking loose. I'm afraid I'll strip the screws and not be able to do anything with it.
They can be difficult. What helps the most is a hollow-ground screwdriver that fits really well. That drastically decreases the chance of stripping the screw head. That screw is very long and goes all the way through the ceramic block to the carbon holder piece that acts like a nut. I have put a drop of penetrating oil on that end of the screw and warmed it with a hairdryer. I have also tapped on the screwdriver using a 2oz jeweler's hammer while turning it to try and "shock" the screw loose. You must be sure all the chalky stuff is clear of the screw head before turning the screw sometimes. A helper is handy when tapping/turning the screw driver to hole the pedal part.
I've just reached the stage at 11:20, removing the screws, but with a lot of rust all over the contact end and especially around the screw ends (and everywhere else) I can't budge the screws, and I'm afraid to strip them. I think there might also be rust inside; it looks like the whole pedal sat in water (or worse) for a week. (Newly acquired 431G, pedal works, but 0-60 in no time). Any suggestions as to how I can free up the screws and open it up would be appreciated. If I get inside and need to replace them, are carbon discs and the long screws still available? Wonderful set of videos, so much info! Thank you!
OK, you know about the carbons. You can use penetrating oil to try and loosen the screws, but then you still have the rust to remove. I've been using a rust remover instead, like this one: www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/rust-remedies/the-must-for-rust-rust-remover-and-inhibitor No one makes "replacement" parts for these other than the carbons and rubber feet. You may be able to buy a usable screw at the hardware store; take the end cap with you. Please consider this alternative though. When I have a pedal like that I replace it with a new electronic pedal, like this one or similar: www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Electric-Foot-Conrol-Pedal-EZ-168-Controller-Only-For-Sewing-Machine/162275504624?hash=item25c85fb1f0:g:fTQAAOSweWVXdUOX because they use electronics and not carbons they do not get hot and they offer superior speed control, especially at slow speeds. Use a surge protector as you would for any electronic device. If the existing cords are good I transfer them into the new pedal. This gives me a brand new pedal and usually costs less than new carbons, screws, and cleaning chemicals, not to mention the time savings. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks, Andy! I did find a cordless footpedal of similar vintage at a local sewing machine shop so I was able to take the resistor pack from it and put it into my pedal, and it works great now! I couldn't have done this without your video! I don't think my resistor pack is salvageable, because I still can't get the bolts out, unfortunately, they are have become one with their nuts. But, I also subsequently found a little trove of about 50 carbon discs, some broken, most not, at a charity shop, so if and when I need to get into the one I have, I hope to have enough spare discs to make it "new" again. I will try to get my hands on some krud kutter and give that a shot, one day, in my spare time!
Love your videos, Andy! I’m working on a pedal like yours for my 306W. My ceramic holder has about 5 hairline cracks & the longest one is less than half an inch. Should I try to fill/reinforce these with glue, etc.?
Two things can cause that, that I have seen. If the screws were overtightened, and/or excessive heat. The carbons and ceramic get very hot under normal conditions. If the carbon discs are in bad shape that increases resistance which increases the heat too. Are the discs still usable? Do the cracks go through into the hollow "tubes" that hold the discs? You can use a glue rated for high heat, often that's an epoxy type glue. There are many types under $10. Besure the glue is rated for use on ceramic. You do not need a thick coating but over-spread the cracks a little. If the cracks do go into the tubes DO NOT let the glue go into the tubes as that may cause malfunction of the moving discs when they try to compress.
@@andytubesewing1953 I just started the part 4 video. I wanted to watch it before opening the ceramic holder & removing the discs but I don’t think the cracks go into the hollow tubes. If the discs are bad, I have another pedal I can try. If they look good, I will try the high-heat epoxy. Thanks so much for your quick response & awesome videos!
@@zoomzoomboomboom looks like you have a good plan then. They do make carbons for the clamshell foot controller. I have opened the tube and used the carbons in a button style. The carbons are twice as thick and I split them into the two tubes and they worked OK, Here is where I bought mine, but there may be other sellers www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/carbon-element-for-singer-foot-control-part-618804-003 Good Luck.
I have never found documentation by SInger of a specific amount. I have worked on many pedals and found amounts (per side) from about 48 to 72. I had one viewer comment where they found 80 on one side and 78 on the other. It's been my experience that you can have a high number and still adjust the button travel from low to high speed. When there was a very low amount I could not adjust for proper speed. Like I could adjust for low to medium speed only, or medium to high speed only. Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi, Jemona. I am not familiar with sergers. If it has a Carbon Stack Resistor foot control like or similar to this one, then you should be able to clean and adjust it. I also have a series on a Clam Shell Style foot controller you can find here: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html Here is yet another style of foot controller: ua-cam.com/video/fN7NYI2SLeo/v-deo.html In this style of foot pedal, the carbon system is the same, but you must be careful removing the asbestos pad. Very careful. ua-cam.com/video/gcIB6VJ56Yk/v-deo.html If your question is about the Carbon Motor Brushes inside the motor, then that is totally different. Here are a couple motor videos. They are of sewing machine motors and not serger motors, but they will show you about carbon motor brushes: ua-cam.com/video/TmnnvGrEfmg/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html If you need more help, perhaps letting us know the part or model numbers of the machine and the foot pedal would help. Best of luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I think the plugs were put in to keep out the amateurs. Unless you knew what you were doing, you wouldn’t know there was a screw under there. Good video.
thank you. You could be correct about the plugs too. A viewer wrote me that the white compound was to keep the screws from loosening, like Locktite maybe. I like your idea better b/c they filled the hole completely and smoothly, not just dabbed some on the end of the screw. Thanks for the comment.
My controller doesn't have the screws to hold in the carbon stacks in the "U" part under those plugs -- there are no plugs. Instead my controller has screws directly into the retaining clip holding the contact caps over the carbon stack. So interesting the variations in these.
@@andytubesewing1953 I have three controllers, one is a spare I purchased -- two came with 500a machines. I have opened two of them and both are that way. I'll email you photos!
I opened up the pedal belonging to a 500A I've restored and found that the total carbon disc count was different in each chamber. There are 60 + 1 thick one in Chamber A and 63 in Chamber B, but no thick carbon disc. Do I need to locate another thick one or is it acceptable to use three thinner wafers to compensate?
Hi, Gail. It's a good question. Thank you for asking. I think someone worked on the pedal before. I believe you are OK to use it that way. If you stack the thick one next to the regular it is maybe two or three of the regular. Someone was trying to balance the resistance. The thick one is put in the tune first b/c it takes the most wear and tear. When I take the discs out I usually notice the first few at each end have the most deposits. Knowing that, don't put the same two extra discs into that side first. Pick two that look the best so they will last longer. Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi Andy, thank you so much for this great video series on the Singer Push Button Foot Pedal. I just recently opened up the pedal from a 401A and found that the carbon discs stacks were an uneven number. So I will be purchasing new discs soon to straighten that out. However before I do that, I had a question about the beige resistor housing unit (the piece that houses the carbon discs)... there is a heat stain on mine (along the side of the left stack), and I didn't know if this compromised the resistor housing unit or not? What are your thoughts on it? Thanks so much again for all your wonderful and informative videos! I hope you have a wonderful day!
Thank you for complimenting my video efforts 😃
I have found this heat stain a few times and here is my take on it: I don't feel it compromises the pedal or discs in any way. My theory is that this is found on pedals that were mounted in the metal bracket up inside a cabinet for use with a knee lever.
In my casual survey of those I found the left side of the pedal is usually mounted upward, meaning on the high side of the bracket. I believe that, since heat rises, the left side is taking most of that heat that traps in the metal bracket and under the bottom of the cabinet top, and the right side which is lower down and facing the floor is storing less heat. Just a theory.
On about three of these, I found a thin shallow crack along the side (far left) of that heat stain and I repaired that by patching is with an epoxy resin with the hopes it would not widen.
As long as no epoxy leaked into the "tube" for the discs this patch worked well and the pedal worked well afterward.
I appreciate you watching my channel and enjoyed your question very much. Thank you.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for the quick reply! The information you shared was a great help! The pedal was mounted in a cabinet with a knee leveler control, your description sounds like my situation to a 'T'. 🙂
@@BlackFrostQueen okay good then. For me it shouldn't be any problem that you have that heat stain at all. So rest assured and continue on. Thanks for keeping that machine and service and for watching my channel
Where do you buy these carbon discs? I would love to know!
These videos are fantastic! Thank you.
Wow! Thank you very much Susan. It's kind of you to comment.
Andy's whole series is just the thing for start-up business :)
Hi Andy,
Very informative videos.
I've noticed you don't have a capacitator in the pedal. My mother's Singer 185K has suddenly started running at top speed when plugged in. Research on the internet says to remove the capacitator. Will this help if I removed it? The foot pedal is almost exactly like yours.
Thanks for asking an important question, Sadie. Absolutely you should remove any and all capacitors from a vintage foot controller. Not only are they out-dated and no longer needed, but they can also be a fire hazard. Taking them out will let the controller return to variable speed operation. I'm glad you found the video and good luck.
Hi Andy!
I have a green singer 15-125. Bakelite foot controller. Trying to adjust for better slow speeds. Got it about right, but adjustments are kinda far inside the ceramic. Can the carbon disc be purchased anywhere? Not sure where to look.
Thanks
In the past, there was one place I could buy a carbon tube for the clam-shell style controller and take the carbons from it to add to the vintage controllers. Here is the place, but it has shown backorder for a couple months now www.sewingpartsonline.com/carbon-resistance-unit-singer-618804-003.aspx
I made a video about it when I found it ua-cam.com/video/R4JuQ3o9dB0/v-deo.html
*******For the heck of it I just checked at another long time seller(06-18-2020) and he shows them in stock! I can't believe it 👀Terry lives on an Island and can only ship on Fridays due to the pandemic, but he will give you 20% off everything you buy from him by 7-31-2020. It's up to you if you want to wait a week+ ship time store.tandtrepair.com/618804003.html?viewfullsite=1
Otherwise, people have been buying used controllers to strip out the carbons, which seems risky as they may be in bad shape, or they just buy a new carbon resistor or better yet an electronic pedal on eBay/Amazon, etc. You can buy them wired for your model in some cases or without a cord and you transfer your old cord into it. Good Luck.
I think they may plug those stack screws to assure they can't ark.
I don't know about these first hand but have seen this in industry with motor controllers.
More so in DC applications.
I think the silicone is a good idea, I thought that even before you said it.
Very good videos in this playlist, enjoy watching you work, a real pleasure Andy.
I have three 99K's now, one is very sluggish and I suspect I'll be doing this shortly, I think it's going to be a bad one.
Have you needed to get parts for these and are parts available short of buying one to cannibalize for the rest?
Thank you Mark. I've also heard this, along with the idea it is to keep the screws from vibrating lose. Either way, it can hurt to silicon over the screw heads. Glad you commented. Take Care.
Hi Andy! Great video series. I recently bought a beautiful old Singer 319W but it's original foot control was doing exactly like this one was doing. Very frustrating to say the least. I took mine all apart tonight, and overall it's in pretty good shape. I had one carbon disk that has a small piece missing out of one edge so I'll probably just take it out of the stack and same for the other side to make them match. Also as soon as I took the cover off of mine I knew someone had it apart before because the little clip you mentioned numerous times was in backwards! This is going to take me a few hours to do but I will be happy if it works as good after I'm done as what yours did. Thanks for making the videos. Oh, are they all the same inside as far as the resistor setup? Like one from a Kenmore looks different externally. Regardless I guess they would all be the same principal though.
Yes, common to find the clip reversed. Carbon resistor pedals are basically the same with slight differences in the arrangement of the stack. You can see a few different Singer pedals in my playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKBc_8gM1ItODgpHFn3NFGX.html I don't work on Kenmore, or other brands so can't advise you about those pedals. They still make some carbon stack replacement pedals but most nowadays are electronic resistor types which are nice for controlling sewing speed. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks! I have swapped out pedals for the electronic ones also, but I figured this one I’d try and fix it to get some more time out of it. Looked like you got good results from doing so. I’ve never used a machine that had a new carbon resistor control or one that had been recently serviced to know just how well they should actually work.
Myron Horvat. In your opinion. How many carbon disks you think there are in each side. Thank you
@@gabrieltottzi4545 I believe when I redone one of mine I went with 52 on each side.
Thank you very much.
Hey hello Andy so,so so glad to see you back here:) I am in the process of re-wiring this foot pedal. Mine seems to be all metal. I am unable to turn the screws, I have removed the putty added a very small drop of oil with no luck ??? Is WD-40 a good choice?
Again so very nice to have you back, You are an awesome teacher
Thanks, Lil. The longer screws behind the putty, right? I think WD40 is OK, but just use a drop on the other end from the screw head. This is where the screw is screwed into the metal with the ring holding the larger contact carbon. I don't think any reason to put it on the screw head. The screw just goes thru a hollow "tube" to get to the other end. Maybe there is a bit of rust, IDK So, do not spray the solvent all over. If you do not have a spout on the WD40 I spray some in a plastic cup and use a dropper, or a tiny brush to get a drop or two where you want it. Good luc, and thanks for still tuning into my channel.
Hi Andy, I have a few of these that I have rewired but not taken apart. I got one that said it was for a 66 but wanted to use for my 15-90 because I thought they were all the same. Now I’m not sure. This one was pretty filthy but I got it cleaned up. I wired it and plugged it in and it overheated. Could this be because of the carbons? If so, I’m guessing I need to pull it completely apart, inspect and clean them. Suggestions? Thank you so much for your wonderful videos! Do you live in the Phoenix area? I’m a 2nd generation native here although I am now living up north. Thank you!
Without opening the ceramic holder and taking the discs out you do not know their condition. Damaged and dirty carbons can cause overheating. An out of adjustment contact spring can allow electricity into the carbon discs when plugged into the outlet and not even in use. The discs are resistors and resistance equals heat. If electric current is entering the discs with no way to pass through to the motor the discs can get overheated. Cleaning the outside of the ceramic holder does not accomplish much. If the inside of the foot pedal is filthy that's usually a sign that the carbon discs need attention. Most of the foot pedals can be used on most of the machines if you have the correct wires for the machine.
I have used Ammonia to get mildew/mold odors out of fabric with great success, it may work on your cord.
I bought a 301A about ten years ago for $23 just for the foot pedal. It had the same horrendous basement smell. I have noticed that it dissipated over time. 🤷🏻♂️
That's a good tip, thank you. Somewhere in my storeroom, I have another cord set that is even worse. I put it in a paper bag and threw in some baking soda. I forgot about it until now. I'll have to find it and try the ammonia. I've never used ammonia before so it will be an interesting experiment for me. I appreciate you watching my channel and taking the time to comment. Take care.
Any recommendations for how to get these two small screws that hold the carbon disks in? I cleared the chalky looking stuff out but the screws are not breaking loose. I'm afraid I'll strip the screws and not be able to do anything with it.
They can be difficult. What helps the most is a hollow-ground screwdriver that fits really well. That drastically decreases the chance of stripping the screw head. That screw is very long and goes all the way through the ceramic block to the carbon holder piece that acts like a nut. I have put a drop of penetrating oil on that end of the screw and warmed it with a hairdryer. I have also tapped on the screwdriver using a 2oz jeweler's hammer while turning it to try and "shock" the screw loose. You must be sure all the chalky stuff is clear of the screw head before turning the screw sometimes. A helper is handy when tapping/turning the screw driver to hole the pedal part.
I've just reached the stage at 11:20, removing the screws, but with a lot of rust all over the contact end and especially around the screw ends (and everywhere else) I can't budge the screws, and I'm afraid to strip them. I think there might also be rust inside; it looks like the whole pedal sat in water (or worse) for a week. (Newly acquired 431G, pedal works, but 0-60 in no time). Any suggestions as to how I can free up the screws and open it up would be appreciated. If I get inside and need to replace them, are carbon discs and the long screws still available? Wonderful set of videos, so much info! Thank you!
Sorry, I just saw your video re ordering new carbon discs. But I might need the screws.
OK, you know about the carbons. You can use penetrating oil to try and loosen the screws, but then you still have the rust to remove. I've been using a rust remover instead, like this one: www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/rust-remedies/the-must-for-rust-rust-remover-and-inhibitor No one makes "replacement" parts for these other than the carbons and rubber feet. You may be able to buy a usable screw at the hardware store; take the end cap with you. Please consider this alternative though. When I have a pedal like that I replace it with a new electronic pedal, like this one or similar: www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Electric-Foot-Conrol-Pedal-EZ-168-Controller-Only-For-Sewing-Machine/162275504624?hash=item25c85fb1f0:g:fTQAAOSweWVXdUOX because they use electronics and not carbons they do not get hot and they offer superior speed control, especially at slow speeds. Use a surge protector as you would for any electronic device. If the existing cords are good I transfer them into the new pedal. This gives me a brand new pedal and usually costs less than new carbons, screws, and cleaning chemicals, not to mention the time savings. Good luck.
@@lbeez810 thanks for letting me know
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks, Andy! I did find a cordless footpedal of similar vintage at a local sewing machine shop so I was able to take the resistor pack from it and put it into my pedal, and it works great now! I couldn't have done this without your video! I don't think my resistor pack is salvageable, because I still can't get the bolts out, unfortunately, they are have become one with their nuts. But, I also subsequently found a little trove of about 50 carbon discs, some broken, most not, at a charity shop, so if and when I need to get into the one I have, I hope to have enough spare discs to make it "new" again. I will try to get my hands on some krud kutter and give that a shot, one day, in my spare time!
@@lbeez810 What a great solution! Lucky to find those for sure. All's well then and thanks for letting us know the ending 😄✨
Love your videos, Andy!
I’m working on a pedal like yours for my 306W. My ceramic holder has about 5 hairline cracks & the longest one is less than half an inch. Should I try to fill/reinforce these with glue, etc.?
Two things can cause that, that I have seen. If the screws were overtightened, and/or excessive heat. The carbons and ceramic get very hot under normal conditions. If the carbon discs are in bad shape that increases resistance which increases the heat too. Are the discs still usable? Do the cracks go through into the hollow "tubes" that hold the discs? You can use a glue rated for high heat, often that's an epoxy type glue. There are many types under $10. Besure the glue is rated for use on ceramic. You do not need a thick coating but over-spread the cracks a little. If the cracks do go into the tubes DO NOT let the glue go into the tubes as that may cause malfunction of the moving discs when they try to compress.
@@andytubesewing1953 I just started the part 4 video. I wanted to watch it before opening the ceramic holder & removing the discs but I don’t think the cracks go into the hollow tubes.
If the discs are bad, I have another pedal I can try. If they look good, I will try the high-heat epoxy. Thanks so much for your quick response & awesome videos!
@@zoomzoomboomboom looks like you have a good plan then. They do make carbons for the clamshell foot controller. I have opened the tube and used the carbons in a button style. The carbons are twice as thick and I split them into the two tubes and they worked OK, Here is where I bought mine, but there may be other sellers www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/carbon-element-for-singer-foot-control-part-618804-003 Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 great…thank you!!
@@zoomzoomboomboom 👍
Originally. How many pieces of carbon we have in each side of pedal control? Thanks
I have never found documentation by SInger of a specific amount. I have worked on many pedals and found amounts (per side) from about 48 to 72. I had one viewer comment where they found 80 on one side and 78 on the other. It's been my experience that you can have a high number and still adjust the button travel from low to high speed. When there was a very low amount I could not adjust for proper speed. Like I could adjust for low to medium speed only, or medium to high speed only. Thanks for watching my channel.
trying to resurrect a 1936 Singer and this carbon unit is in the a knee control. thanks for the help!
Best of luck with your restoral. I'm happy if this restoration series helps you with that. Thank you for watching, and for saving a machine.
I have a Singer serger machine that needs the carbons change.
Can I do all this work you are doing to fixed?
Hi, Jemona. I am not familiar with sergers. If it has a Carbon Stack Resistor foot control like or similar to this one, then you should be able to clean and adjust it.
I also have a series on a Clam Shell Style foot controller you can find here: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi.html
Here is yet another style of foot controller: ua-cam.com/video/fN7NYI2SLeo/v-deo.html
In this style of foot pedal, the carbon system is the same, but you must be careful removing the asbestos pad. Very careful. ua-cam.com/video/gcIB6VJ56Yk/v-deo.html
If your question is about the Carbon Motor Brushes inside the motor, then that is totally different. Here are a couple motor videos. They are of sewing machine motors and not serger motors, but they will show you about carbon motor brushes: ua-cam.com/video/TmnnvGrEfmg/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ.html
If you need more help, perhaps letting us know the part or model numbers of the machine and the foot pedal would help.
Best of luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I think the plugs were put in to keep out the amateurs. Unless you knew what you were doing, you wouldn’t know there was a screw under there. Good video.
thank you. You could be correct about the plugs too. A viewer wrote me that the white compound was to keep the screws from loosening, like Locktite maybe. I like your idea better b/c they filled the hole completely and smoothly, not just dabbed some on the end of the screw. Thanks for the comment.
My controller doesn't have the screws to hold in the carbon stacks in the "U" part under those plugs -- there are no plugs. Instead my controller has screws directly into the retaining clip holding the contact caps over the carbon stack. So interesting the variations in these.
thanks for sharing that I've never seen one that way do you know what model machine that controller is for?
@@andytubesewing1953 I have three controllers, one is a spare I purchased -- two came with 500a machines. I have opened two of them and both are that way. I'll email you photos!
@@pd10642 andytube53@gmail.com
how nice of you!
I opened up the pedal belonging to a 500A I've restored and found that the total carbon disc count was different in each chamber. There are 60 + 1 thick one in Chamber A and 63 in Chamber B, but no thick carbon disc. Do I need to locate another thick one or is it acceptable to use three thinner wafers to compensate?
Hi, Gail. It's a good question. Thank you for asking. I think someone worked on the pedal before. I believe you are OK to use it that way. If you stack the thick one next to the regular it is maybe two or three of the regular. Someone was trying to balance the resistance. The thick one is put in the tune first b/c it takes the most wear and tear. When I take the discs out I usually notice the first few at each end have the most deposits. Knowing that, don't put the same two extra discs into that side first. Pick two that look the best so they will last longer. Thanks for watching my channel.