Your channel is a treasure to the world. Two hundred years in the future, people are still gonna be watching these. Three hundred years in the future there won't be people anymore, but the robots will be watching these. 😅
Hi! My carbon pile foot pedal is in need of rewiring. I can’t seem to locate your video. You do such an awesome job! I need your video please. I am subscribed 🥰
At full speed the metal contacts in the center provide full voltage and bypass the carbon pile. This is why you will find that the foot pedal operates cooler at full speed
Thank you good Sir. I have restored by tuning and cleaning my foot pedal from screaming start to slow motion precision stitching start. It had the tube of disks, inside which were very easy to access safely, I did not even need to open the disks, I simply cleaned the soot from the contact points and shook the tube side to side in a vertical position very gently to shake out excessive soot in the stack. I am beyond grateful. My machine is a made in Japan Janome model /694. I purchased it yesterday for $20 from the local rubbish tip recycler shop. I have so far very carefully cleaned and oiled the enamel beige paintwork, opened the top, oiled. I have removed massive nest of lint and cleaned the hook area and found a surface rusty bobbin case which I will restore today. Inside I see only two plastic gears which appear quite without any wear surprisingly, the rest appears to be solid steel parts. The machine is very heavy and most of the exterior may be cast aluminium or some other alloy which magnets do not stick to but weighs very heavy. I have removed the plastic parts exterior (handle and base cover) which have yellowed and started the process of restoring those to remove UV yellowing. I am very excited that I found this machine as though it is mainly designed to do only a few stitches plus a handful of more complex ones manually by manoeuvre of the stitch length and width dials, it does an extraordinarily good job of what it does do and looks like it would handle up to six layers of canvas with ease, four of leather too. It can drop and set multi positions of the feed dogs which my newish Toyota machine cannot do, which will be handy for quilting. Though it must be older than 52 years it is quieter than my other non Japan vintage Janome, honestly the motor is near silent, I’m almost sure the soft sound I am hearing is something (maybe the front case plastic panel) rubbing on the hand wheel as there is a tiny band of deposit on the hand wheel immediately to the right of the belt. I am gobsmacked that all the steel inside the top moving parts after oiling and even before make not a decibel, there is a slight sound where the arm pulls the thread near the tensioner up and down even after oiling a slight click at the top of its cycle, though I don’t see it hitting anything. Next I will oil under the base and look at timing. I have the slight slant to the straight stitch which I will investigate and may just need the foot straightened. I appear to be missing only the wire thread guide from under my needle clamp, though she sews just fine without it. I attached a high shank adaptor and a set of modern quick switch pressor feet from another machine I bought at the tip which was computerised embroidery-machine which I could not fix and threw away keeping only feet, as she only had a rolled hem foot and a straight stitch foot with her on purchase to give me more foot options and space for thicker sewing. I am thrilled, I find such joy in getting her going and looking good. I love your content it’s very helpful and inspiring.
Great video, thanks. You mention that some other manufacturers used these. My Bernina 707, from 1971, has a carbon pile that looks very similar, but a much more sophisticated set of springs and levers to connect it to your foot. Its speed control is just fantastic, even 49 years on! I can easily do a single stitch with it. The motor is practically silent. (A huge contrast with my new "Singer" overlocker, (actually made by Husqvarna) which goes from 0 to 1300 stitches per minute in a blink!)
Thanks for all the great information in this video, as always. It's very useful to see what's inside an appliance and how to disassemble it before trying to open it. Especially for me who know nothing of those pedals with carbon discs. In my experience, a basic electric motor will always 'jump' from a stall to a certain speed. And the easiest way to lower that starting speed is by lubricating its bushings or bearings. But there's a reason the sewing industry uses clutches and now servo motors. That 'twisting foot' design... Had it been really ergonomic, it would be ubiquitous by now, especially on professional machines. Elna also marketed an innovation in the early 1980s with the 'Air' model which was controlled with a pneumatic rubber/silicone bladder and a tube that runned from the floor to the machine. My reckless girlfriend purchased one, and it surprisingly worked longer than our two-year relationship. [Edit: Last sentence.]
Thanks for your comment - and on the Elna thing. Until now I got the impresion, that I invented the silicone bladder tube design 5 years ago. Well then Elna did that way before that :) i got this Picture of mine: www.dropbox.com/s/rbvz5wlkuqo2nmq/Force%20control.jpg?dl=0
Thank you for this. Your videos are so complete and interesting. I’m in the process of “waking up” my Singer Featherweight that I’ve owned for over forty years but that hasn’t seen much use recently. It still runs like a champ but needed a little extra TLC. Getting an understanding of how it works makes me feel that I can care for it and that it still has a long and healthy life ahead of it. I truly love when things are made so well.
I did mine today - how many disks would be too few? I have 54 plus the thick one on one side, and 56 thin ones on the other side.... no idea why there's not a second thick disk - the plaster was in place on the screws so perhaps someone missed it, 65 years ago ? So, what's the smallest number of carbon disks one could reasonably use before having to find and add more?
Hi, I recently had to replace my carbon foot pedal due to the previous Universal getting hot and popping like popcorn one day. I again bought one like it, but was wondering if there is a safer pedal. Is Rheostat a safer one, and is there one comparable with a White 764 machine? Thank you! Great info on these videos!
Hi Rhonda. Both Carbon Pile and Rheostat sewing pedal types can work well. Both are vulnerable to wearing out over many years, although the most common issues occur when they have been dropped and can often be damaged on the inside. If your current pedal is working properly, it will still get warm given how they are designed to handled power. There are generic electronic foot pedals that can also work. They do not produce heart, but they also require gentle handling as they can suffer damage if dropped. And always remember that either Carbon Pile or Rheostat type pedals must be set on solid surface flooring since they will overheat and damage carpeting or rugs. I would contact shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Controls-Foot-Pedals-Parts_c9.htm They sell sewing machine parts and you can write them and ask if their electronic pedal would work with your machine setup. Also, check to see that your pedal and cord are the common 2 wire type. You can tell since those have just one indent down the middle of the cord just like a lamp cord. Some of the later White models experimented with 3 Wire cords which would have 2 indents running down the cord center. These are not as common, but its good to know should you order a new pedal. If you order a new cord from this supplier, they have a service where you can purchase a foot pedal and they will wire the 2 up for you for a very nominal charge.
I just discovered, that I have got this Carbon Pile reostat on my Singer 66 machine :) Now I know how it Works. Here is a Photo of it: www.dropbox.com/s/r1etljatquraif6/Knee%20activated%20carbon%20disc%20reostat%20Singer%2066.jpg?dl=0
My 1948 singer foot pedal goes from no needle movement to very fast. It's as if the pedal isn't providing power until it's almost compressed all the way down. Would that likely be the carbon discs not working properly? You said to replace the foot pedal If it's not working correctly but I'm wondering if I could just put a new carbon discs instead? Thanks for all your great tutorials!
The discs can be one of the causes but it can also be a wiring issue possibly. I would replace the original pedal with a new generic one. That would be the simplest solution.
Behind the box are two metal clips (very stout clips I might add). It is very challenging to show these on a video but I've removed them before. After unplugging the machine, I take a screwdriver and unlatch the clips from the table side of the box. If you attempt this, be sure to have another set of hands assisting you as you will need those to keep from dropping the box which has porcelain inside.
Thanks for the information! You mentioned doing a video on the restoration of a foot pedal but I didn't find it. Could you either direct me to it or answer 1 question - do I add A drop of oil anywhere before putting it back together? My button had been sticking and taking it apart, there was a lot of grime build up on the button itself. However, I noticed a sheen of oil/grease and was wondering if I should add a drop on the two "moving parts" of the pedal lever (the hinge on at the bottom and the one above it).
I normally don't have to lubricate the inner workings of the pedal. For the lever that interacts with the button, you can use one drop only for that. The best way to get free movement of the pedal is to clean that area very well as you have observed that dirt/dust/ can cause the button to "stick". Be EXTRA careful not to get any oil near the electrical parts of your pedal.
I wonder if there's any lubricant similar to the DeOxIt FaderLube (works GREAT with rheostats and potentiometers) that would work well with carbon pile pedals....
I am not aware of any need for lubricants and would not experiment with them. Both Reostat and Carbon Pile style speed controllers were designed to work without lubricant and have shown to be very durable as designed.
I am not aware of reproduction of 'Singer' button style pedals. What you can find are new metal 'Rheostat' type foot controls. Be sure that the amperage rating on the pedal is the same or above the amps listed for your motor.
I have a singer slant o matic 403 special. It has the button style foot pedal.. has the holder for it up in the cabnet but no knee mechanism... which i love using the old knee operation... any who.. can i replace the pedal with an electic one ... is there a certain way the 2 wires would connect? Would just any universal 2 wire pedal work.. also what year was machine from.. it was my mother n laws.. i love this old machine just not the foot pedal and it squeaks after ive used it so long.. love your videos. Thanks in advance
Hello Anna. There are generic Electronic foot pedals that can be wired to your machine in place of the original. I would check with a local sewing-vacuum center to see about having one installed. They are not expensive and labor should not be too high since they don't take that long to install normally.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage i found and ordered the one you had on the video curex or how ever spelled.. off ebay...myself and my husband rewire all kinds of stuff so cant wait to receive it and change the old one out.... been making masks for family and friends... Thanks for the videos and the response.... very helpful...
I just discovered the ceramic block for my Thompson rheostat was cracked right in half and taped up with electrical tape (I just picked it up recently on CL). I tried to epoxy the halves back together by my guess is that the epoxy oozed into the pile of carbon disks and will interfere with proper compression. Should I get another carbon style foot pedal or get a modern solid state replacement?
I wish it were otherwise, but sadly, its not practical to reconstruct any damaged foot pedal. The vintage pedals work via regular heat cycles that make adhesives less reliable. You can purchase reproduction metal foot pedals that are either carbon pile or rheostat based. Personally, I like the generic electronic pedals that you can purchase already wired with reproduction cords such as for your Singer. The work quite well and are reasonably priced.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Yeah I bet even high temp epoxy wouldn't work and I used regular epoxy. Anyway I have been struggling for 2 weeks with no low speed control at all just thinking that was the way the machine worked and finally decided to open up the pedal to see what was going on. I can't wait to try an electronic one now. Thanks!
Hi Marisela. I show these in the video do illustrate how carbon pile foot pedals work. I have not overhauled and replaced carbon discs in a foot pedal. Very often, if the discs are broken, that can often be an indicator that the pedal was dropped and suffered additional damage. I replace the whole unit with another vintage pedal or newer one. If you find a source for how to replace the discs, let us know. The ones in my video came out of a foot pedal that had a broken porcelain piece inside.
Your channel is a treasure to the world. Two hundred years in the future, people are still gonna be watching these. Three hundred years in the future there won't be people anymore, but the robots will be watching these. 😅
Hi! My carbon pile foot pedal is in need of rewiring. I can’t seem to locate your video. You do such an awesome job! I need your video please. I am subscribed 🥰
At full speed the metal contacts in the center provide full voltage and bypass the carbon pile. This is why you will find that the foot pedal operates cooler at full speed
Thank you good Sir. I have restored by tuning and cleaning my foot pedal from screaming start to slow motion precision stitching start. It had the tube of disks, inside which were very easy to access safely, I did not even need to open the disks, I simply cleaned the soot from the contact points and shook the tube side to side in a vertical position very gently to shake out excessive soot in the stack. I am beyond grateful. My machine is a made in Japan Janome model /694. I purchased it yesterday for $20 from the local rubbish tip recycler shop. I have so far very carefully cleaned and oiled the enamel beige paintwork, opened the top, oiled. I have removed massive nest of lint and cleaned the hook area and found a surface rusty bobbin case which I will restore today. Inside I see only two plastic gears which appear quite without any wear surprisingly, the rest appears to be solid steel parts. The machine is very heavy and most of the exterior may be cast aluminium or some other alloy which magnets do not stick to but weighs very heavy. I have removed the plastic parts exterior (handle and base cover) which have yellowed and started the process of restoring those to remove UV yellowing. I am very excited that I found this machine as though it is mainly designed to do only a few stitches plus a handful of more complex ones manually by manoeuvre of the stitch length and width dials, it does an extraordinarily good job of what it does do and looks like it would handle up to six layers of canvas with ease, four of leather too. It can drop and set multi positions of the feed dogs which my newish Toyota machine cannot do, which will be handy for quilting. Though it must be older than 52 years it is quieter than my other non Japan vintage Janome, honestly the motor is near silent, I’m almost sure the soft sound I am hearing is something (maybe the front case plastic panel) rubbing on the hand wheel as there is a tiny band of deposit on the hand wheel immediately to the right of the belt. I am gobsmacked that all the steel inside the top moving parts after oiling and even before make not a decibel, there is a slight sound where the arm pulls the thread near the tensioner up and down even after oiling a slight click at the top of its cycle, though I don’t see it hitting anything. Next I will oil under the base and look at timing. I have the slight slant to the straight stitch which I will investigate and may just need the foot straightened. I appear to be missing only the wire thread guide from under my needle clamp, though she sews just fine without it. I attached a high shank adaptor and a set of modern quick switch pressor feet from another machine I bought at the tip which was computerised embroidery-machine which I could not fix and threw away keeping only feet, as she only had a rolled hem foot and a straight stitch foot with her on purchase to give me more foot options and space for thicker sewing. I am thrilled, I find such joy in getting her going and looking good. I love your content it’s very helpful and inspiring.
Great video, thanks. You mention that some other manufacturers used these. My Bernina 707, from 1971, has a carbon pile that looks very similar, but a much more sophisticated set of springs and levers to connect it to your foot. Its speed control is just fantastic, even 49 years on! I can easily do a single stitch with it. The motor is practically silent. (A huge contrast with my new "Singer" overlocker, (actually made by Husqvarna) which goes from 0 to 1300 stitches per minute in a blink!)
Yes they do
Thanks for all the great information in this video, as always. It's very useful to see what's inside an appliance and how to disassemble it before trying to open it. Especially for me who know nothing of those pedals with carbon discs.
In my experience, a basic electric motor will always 'jump' from a stall to a certain speed. And the easiest way to lower that starting speed is by lubricating its bushings or bearings. But there's a reason the sewing industry uses clutches and now servo motors.
That 'twisting foot' design... Had it been really ergonomic, it would be ubiquitous by now, especially on professional machines. Elna also marketed an innovation in the early 1980s with the 'Air' model which was controlled with a pneumatic rubber/silicone bladder and a tube that runned from the floor to the machine. My reckless girlfriend purchased one, and it surprisingly worked longer than our two-year relationship.
[Edit: Last sentence.]
Thanks for your comment - and on the Elna thing. Until now I got the impresion, that I invented the silicone bladder tube design 5 years ago. Well then Elna did that way before that :) i got this Picture of mine: www.dropbox.com/s/rbvz5wlkuqo2nmq/Force%20control.jpg?dl=0
Thank you for this. Your videos are so complete and interesting. I’m in the process of “waking up” my Singer Featherweight that I’ve owned for over forty years but that hasn’t seen much use recently. It still runs like a champ but needed a little extra TLC. Getting an understanding of how it works makes me feel that I can care for it and that it still has a long and healthy life ahead of it. I truly love when things are made so well.
I agree Anna. I wish new things were made with the same quality.
Thanks for your information on how this foot pedal Work. I now learned what a carbon pile is and how it Works - thank you :)
I love this. I need to change out my foot pedal. You are so thorough. Mine is the rheostat and I want the button.
Great video - excellent information. Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
:) I have a Singer 1951 with same button peddle with lever ;)
Where is your video on cleaning and re wiring the carbon pile foot pedal? I’m subscribed!!!
I cannot find it! Please.
I did mine today - how many disks would be too few? I have 54 plus the thick one on one side, and 56 thin ones on the other side.... no idea why there's not a second thick disk - the plaster was in place on the screws so perhaps someone missed it, 65 years ago ?
So, what's the smallest number of carbon disks one could reasonably use before having to find and add more?
I didn't have any spare disks, and just put in a few washers at the bottom, to fill the space. It worked!
Hi, I recently had to replace my carbon foot pedal due to the previous Universal getting hot and popping like popcorn one day. I again bought one like it, but was wondering if there is a safer pedal. Is Rheostat a safer one, and is there one comparable with a White 764 machine?
Thank you! Great info on these videos!
Hi Rhonda. Both Carbon Pile and Rheostat sewing pedal types can work well. Both are vulnerable to wearing out over many years, although the most common issues occur when they have been dropped and can often be damaged on the inside. If your current pedal is working properly, it will still get warm given how they are designed to handled power. There are generic electronic foot pedals that can also work. They do not produce heart, but they also require gentle handling as they can suffer damage if dropped. And always remember that either Carbon Pile or Rheostat type pedals must be set on solid surface flooring since they will overheat and damage carpeting or rugs. I would contact shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Controls-Foot-Pedals-Parts_c9.htm They sell sewing machine parts and you can write them and ask if their electronic pedal would work with your machine setup. Also, check to see that your pedal and cord are the common 2 wire type. You can tell since those have just one indent down the middle of the cord just like a lamp cord. Some of the later White models experimented with 3 Wire cords which would have 2 indents running down the cord center. These are not as common, but its good to know should you order a new pedal. If you order a new cord from this supplier, they have a service where you can purchase a foot pedal and they will wire the 2 up for you for a very nominal charge.
I just discovered, that I have got this Carbon Pile reostat on my Singer 66 machine :) Now I know how it Works. Here is a Photo of it: www.dropbox.com/s/r1etljatquraif6/Knee%20activated%20carbon%20disc%20reostat%20Singer%2066.jpg?dl=0
My 1948 singer foot pedal goes from no needle movement to very fast. It's as if the pedal isn't providing power until it's almost compressed all the way down. Would that likely be the carbon discs not working properly? You said to replace the foot pedal If it's not working correctly but I'm wondering if I could just put a new carbon discs instead? Thanks for all your great tutorials!
The discs can be one of the causes but it can also be a wiring issue possibly. I would replace the original pedal with a new generic one. That would be the simplest solution.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thank you!!
How do you remove the knee control box from the cabinet? I am trying to remove one from Necchi Bu Mira cabinet.
Behind the box are two metal clips (very stout clips I might add). It is very challenging to show these on a video but I've removed them before. After unplugging the machine, I take a screwdriver and unlatch the clips from the table side of the box. If you attempt this, be sure to have another set of hands assisting you as you will need those to keep from dropping the box which has porcelain inside.
Where do you get parts for 15-91 and the 66? Thank you
If I need extra carbon pile with button style. Where can I find it or how can I get it? Thank you
Thanks for the information! You mentioned doing a video on the restoration of a foot pedal but I didn't find it. Could you either direct me to it or answer 1 question - do I add A drop of oil anywhere before putting it back together? My button had been sticking and taking it apart, there was a lot of grime build up on the button itself. However, I noticed a sheen of oil/grease and was wondering if I should add a drop on the two "moving parts" of the pedal lever (the hinge on at the bottom and the one above it).
I normally don't have to lubricate the inner workings of the pedal. For the lever that interacts with the button, you can use one drop only for that. The best way to get free movement of the pedal is to clean that area very well as you have observed that dirt/dust/ can cause the button to "stick". Be EXTRA careful not to get any oil near the electrical parts of your pedal.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thank you so much for the advice.
I wonder if there's any lubricant similar to the DeOxIt FaderLube (works GREAT with rheostats and potentiometers) that would work well with carbon pile pedals....
I am not aware of any need for lubricants and would not experiment with them. Both Reostat and Carbon Pile style speed controllers were designed to work without lubricant and have shown to be very durable as designed.
You mentioned reproduction foot pedals. I am looking for one for my singer 346, very similar to this one. Where can I find one? Thank you.
I am not aware of reproduction of 'Singer' button style pedals. What you can find are new metal 'Rheostat' type foot controls. Be sure that the amperage rating on the pedal is the same or above the amps listed for your motor.
Which shop carbon available sir
I have a singer slant o matic 403 special. It has the button style foot pedal.. has the holder for it up in the cabnet but no knee mechanism... which i love using the old knee operation... any who.. can i replace the pedal with an electic one ... is there a certain way the 2 wires would connect? Would just any universal 2 wire pedal work.. also what year was machine from.. it was my mother n laws.. i love this old machine just not the foot pedal and it squeaks after ive used it so long.. love your videos. Thanks in advance
Hello Anna. There are generic Electronic foot pedals that can be wired to your machine in place of the original. I would check with a local sewing-vacuum center to see about having one installed. They are not expensive and labor should not be too high since they don't take that long to install normally.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage i found and ordered the one you had on the video curex or how ever spelled.. off ebay...myself and my husband rewire all kinds of stuff so cant wait to receive it and change the old one out.... been making masks for family and friends...
Thanks for the videos and the response.... very helpful...
I just discovered the ceramic block for my Thompson rheostat was cracked right in half and taped up with electrical tape (I just picked it up recently on CL). I tried to epoxy the halves back together by my guess is that the epoxy oozed into the pile of carbon disks and will interfere with proper compression. Should I get another carbon style foot pedal or get a modern solid state replacement?
I wish it were otherwise, but sadly, its not practical to reconstruct any damaged foot pedal. The vintage pedals work via regular heat cycles that make adhesives less reliable. You can purchase reproduction metal foot pedals that are either carbon pile or rheostat based. Personally, I like the generic electronic pedals that you can purchase already wired with reproduction cords such as for your Singer. The work quite well and are reasonably priced.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Yeah I bet even high temp epoxy wouldn't work and I used regular epoxy. Anyway I have been struggling for 2 weeks with no low speed control at all just thinking that was the way the machine worked and finally decided to open up the pedal to see what was going on. I can't wait to try an electronic one now. Thanks!
what fuse do you put in the plug of a foot peddle?
Hi, where I can get the carbons for a singer 503a?
Thanks
Hi Marisela. I show these in the video do illustrate how carbon pile foot pedals work. I have not overhauled and replaced carbon discs in a foot pedal. Very often, if the discs are broken, that can often be an indicator that the pedal was dropped and suffered additional damage. I replace the whole unit with another vintage pedal or newer one. If you find a source for how to replace the discs, let us know. The ones in my video came out of a foot pedal that had a broken porcelain piece inside.
You can actually put some metal washers at the bottom of the stack, to fill any missing space. It worked for a pedal that I repaired recently.