SINGER FOOT PEDAL RESTORATION PART 1 - DISMANTLE
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
- Singer button style foot pedal restoration series. How to dismantle a button style foot controller/pedal.
Krud Kutter site:
www.rustoleum.com/product-cata...
Tri-Flow site:
triflowlubricants.com/product...
00:00 INTO
03:40 BAD PEDAL DEMO
04:30 OPEN THE PEDAL
06:40 RUBBER PADS/FEET
08:00 PLUNGER CONTACT TEST
09:55 REMOVE WIRES
11:30 REMOVE CONTACT BAR
13:30 REMOVE STOP TABS
15:50 REMOVE CARBON ASSEMBLY
17:35 RETAINING TAB - Навчання та стиль
Thank you so much for this Andy! I just took mine apart and cleaned it all up, replaced the capacitor and it's working a treat! (it was going crazy and running on it's own when plugged in) I just wouldn't have had a clue about taking it apart or the confidence to try it without your video. Much appreciated.
You are welcome, Billie and congratulations on your success. It was fun and rewarding to repair it I'm sure. I'm glad you found the video. Stop by again when you have time and take care.
I needed this yesterday when I attached a new dual cord, but now watching this, I think I’ll open it back up and clean it along side your videos! Thank you!
Welcome, and glad you found the playlist for restoring this type of pedal. I think it's a great idea to clean it up. It's at least 50+ years old and may have never been cleaned and/or adjusted. New cord and new servicing should equal many years of good performance. Thanks for sharing on my channel and good luck.
Thank you for this series of videos. I have cleaned several of these button foot controllers. I opened one and found rust on the ceramic piece that holds the carbon disks and on the screws. So, I emptied the carbon disks and cleaned each with a pencil eraser. I will never clean any again with a pencil eraser because although very careful, I broke one at the very end of my cleaning them. They are very fragile. Your videos are amazing. Thank you for taking time to go into detail.
You're welcome. I tried the pencil eraser one time too. Just did not work well. I wish I knew of a way to clen them better. I just rub them gentlt on a paper towel. The other parts of the pedal hold up so well, like it will last forever, but the carbon discs, not so much! Nice if sommeone found a replacement sstem for them, but I sure can't figure one out. Thank you for waatchng.
Hi Andy, I found a carbon pile foot control on Ebay so I went through and cleaned my old one and went through it. The new Ebay foot control had a porcelain carbon pile with 64 discs each side with all the discs good enough to use. So I took the best discs from my old one and switched out the questionable ones from the Ebay one so I have a porcelain pile in my foot control. It works great and thanks again for the clear, concise videos on the restoration of t hese. The thing is that now when I sew, the stereo I have close by, switches from AM to FM and vice versa. The ghost in the machine. So thanks again for the time and effort in your videos. I've used a number of them.
A nice solution, Ralph. Good job. In the early days of radio and TV Singer put Capacitors into the pedal and sometimes the machine near the motor. They prevented that interference with radio/TV. Most of the capacitors have worn out and caused the motor to run full speed independent of the pedal. My wife's house in S.E. Asia had this problem with an old model 66 and her nephew got a surge controller device for the radio to plug into before the outlet and that cured the interference. Happy sewing, Ralph, and thank you for watching my channel
Thought I'd never love using my Singer 600e because of how hard I had to push on the knee lever before it would make stitches. Adjusted it per your instructions and now I have excellent controlled and I will use it even more than I did before. Can't thank you enough. Love your detail in these videos. I don't mind watching you unscrew all the screws or anything else that may seem time consuming. Again thanks.
thanks for letting me know Terri and congratulations on getting that 600e to run normally. it's in the last class of all metal singer machines and I'm glad that you use it so much. Stop by Andy to anytime okay?
@@andytubesewing1953 power not reaching to the machine
@@angelathomas8626 Make & Model of the machine? Defective cord, loose connection inside the pedal, loose connection inside machine wire terminal (where the cord plugs into the machine).
After seeing this introduction, I now have confidence that I can restore the foot controller to my new old 403a. Thanks, Andy!
I know you can and no worries. A step at a time. Maybe take pictures as you go if it is something new to you so you can remember during reassemble. I'm here if needed. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 You are so kind to encourage and help educate us. I watch your work and see how you care about what you do, every detail, every comment made. I've gained a large appreciation for your skills and knowledge and also for the engineering that went into those great machines. It's why if they're maintained well that they've lasted this long and why they'll keep going 50 more years...and likely longer
@@ketobabysteps4893 Likely longer, I agree! I've had the opportunity to visit a couple of machines I worked on years ago. The owners have just done normal maintenance on them and they look as good as the day I finished them. My wife is still using Coco almost daily. I recently decided to take an annual close look and do maintenance. I basically only had to use a brush under the hook and on the oil pan and the gears, add fresh oil and grease, wipe off what I spilled and that's it! Coco looks like the day I finished restoring her. Truly wonderful engineering and manufacturing by Singer in the early 1950s.
thanks for these informative videos! I got a Singer 404 in excellent condition, works beautifully ($10 at a rummage sale)- but the button on the pedal sticks- I figured I'd watch the whole restoration series- why not learn as much as I can!
What a great price! The pedal probably just needs a good cleaning and a little oil/grease. The videos will help you. If you ever have other issues here are 56 videos about working on all the parts, cleaning it, etc. ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI.html Happy sewing and thanks for watching my channel.
Thanks for your suggestions. I'll keep my eyes open for some of those old petals. Maybe I'll get lucky and find some.
Best of luck! Thanks for visiting my channel.
Superb! Exactly what I was looking for. This will allow me to get my Singer Featherweight 222K in running condition.
I'm very glad that you found the series then Good luck and congratulations on owning a featherweights
Perfect video for my 1961 singer 503A controller! It does the "moan and groan" thing before it starts moving, as does my 1952 singer 99 (love that video series too, BTW). So I think I have 2 controller projects in my very near future.
I'm tickled pink I took apart my pedal...in a 15-91.. cabinet style...got my controller off and cleaned...hallilulia!!! My baby beastie is back to fluid super fast sewing...so grateful for your help!! Hugs
Nicely done! I'm glad you found my channel. Thanks for keeping that great machine in service!
@@andytubesewing1953 it's my gr gr Grammy machine... special to me and on lot 4300 covid masks for my community
@@kimcase9 Fantastic. A true heirloom. Thanks for serving your neighbors and community.
Oh thank you soooo much, up and running perfectly!
Yippee! Nicely done, Diane. Thanks for letting me know. Hope you found it rewarding. Take Care.
Hi Andy, if you break those a little carbon disc's is there anyway to restore or buy new ones. I was working on my footpedal and my husband opened the section that houses the carbon desks , and he broke some of them. Do you have any suggestions for new partsor do I have to buy a new paddle?
Hi Dorothy. No one makes them anymore that I have been able to find. I have to buy used pedals and take them out to re-use. If I see a pedal at a thrift shop, I buy it just for the rubber feet and carbon discs. The used ones on eBay now cost about as much as a New Electronic Foot Pedal, $20 to $30. If I have a total failure of a vintage foot pedal, I have been replacing it with a new electronic one from Sew Classic, Central Michigan Sewing, eBay, Amazon, Walmart, Joann's, etc. If your cord is good you can transfer it to a new pedal and save a few $, or buy a new pedal with cord wired for your machine model.
Thank you. Very very helpful.
You are welcome and thanks for taking the time to leave a nice comment.
Thank you for these great videos! I've finished restoring my pedal, but now it only goes fast. I have readjusted it both tighter and looser and everything in between, but still fast. Any ideas? Thank you.
Sorry that you're having trouble with it, Susan. So, did it work normally before you worked on it? If so then it definitely can be adjusted properly. Were there any broken carbons you had to remove? If so, how many? (If there are not enough carbon discs it can not be adjusted properly) If it just won't work properly you could always replace it with a new electronic pedal like this one: shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Control-Electronic-2-Wire-Type-UL-12-amp-SCE168FC.htm
You can reuse the existing cord or buy a new one or even have them wire the new cord into the controller for you. The electronic pedals never get hot and never need adjusting.
I really appreciate this series, and wish I had watched it and checked the bottom of the foot pedal before I purchased my 201K this week, as I would have offered atleast 20% less in the price. The rubber feet were melted inside the corners of the pedal (no idea why they would've been put in this way), and had I flipped it over to look at it, I would have seen this problem (live and learn)! But I had no idea they would be so expensive to replace either. I'm in the UK and just found them for £9 for a pack of 4, but that is a lot in my opinion.
I searched for buying the 4 rubber feet here in the US and found prices, not including shipping, from $8 to $20, so your prices is towards the low side here. I've had viewers tell me they modified the base by gluing on cheaper rubber feet from the hardware store. Best of luck with your "new" 201K and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you!
Hello Andy,
I hope this email finds you well. I have started work on my 404 that I picked up last year. I opened up the foot controller and found that the little protrusion that fills the void where the cable enters broke (cleanly). I was wondering if Bakelite can be glued back together and if you had any suggestions on the type of glue. I am having a wonderful time cleaning and repairing the 401, 403, and 404 that I searched for and bought for a total of $90. All thanks to your great videos. I find I like the 404 best for its simplicity and clean lines. THANK YOU!
You have a beautiful trifecta of some of the best machines Singer made, IMO. Great price BTW. I have used a method of packing wet baking soda between broken plastic and bakelite pieces, letting it dry, then adding super glue. You can see me do it here:studio.ua-cam.com/users/videoNXx6JyP9d5U/edit My friend who restores old bakelite radios and pistol grips uses an epoxy method. When I asked him about it he referred me to these instructions: www.ehow.com/how_7824433_glue-bakelite.html I've seen his work and it was fantastic, but it seemed like overkill for the repairs I needed so I never tried it. Good luck. Thanks for saving those machines, and for watching my channel.
Andy - we have a short and long bed 301a machines. One came with a singer motor controller 194584 7th edition "G" with the long bed and the short bed came with a 197629. The 194584 one cord with power and foot control. Has the 3 prong plug only for both. The normal location for the foot controller 2 plug was covered with plate. The short bed controller has the normal 3 plug for power cord and separate two plug for the foot pedal. Can we use the 194584 controller with the single 3 prong plug on the Short Bed? If so, we would want to get a second 194584 for the short bed.
Your insight on this would most welcome.
Best Janet
What a unique question! I don't think it will work. Here is what I've learned over the years.
The short bed model uses the two cords b/c it was made to mount into a cabinet via a "cradle" system. The 2-prong cord was made to point down from the lower terminal b/c the foot pedal was to be mounted into a bracket inside the cabinet and used with a knee lever. That way the cord could be left in and the cradle/machine could be raised and lowered. It has a short bed so it can be lowered inside the cabinet and the cabinet itself provides a larger surface for fabric. Singer made a new very unique cabinet for this innovative machine: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/74_cab.html
Here is a picture of the cradle: www.ebay.com/itm/235031139387?hash=item36b8f2943b:g:MsgAAOSwmrtkddpd
The long bed machine was made to be a portable machine and the long bed gives more fabric surface when sewing. Singer made a unique carry case for it, too. It did not need the separate cord for going down into the cabinet so it just has the one multi-purpose cord. Here is what the trapezoid case looks like: www.ebay.com/itm/166113249447
It's not so much the type of foot controller (I've never paid attention to the part numbers on them) as much as the terminal the cords plug into. The wires behind the terminals are different in the two models. On all the machines the power to the motor goes in and out of the foot controller. In the cabinet model with the two-prong pedal cord, the wires go from the 3-prong terminal straight to the light switch and to the 2-prong terminal then in & out of the foot pedal, and back to the 3-prong then to the motor. If you have not opened your machine to see the wires here is a picture of one for sale. (use the dropdown menu for #8) www.ebay.com/itm/384292072135?hash=item597997aac7:g:VpEAAOSwnGpg-xim&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0LS4KqApm8ltGK4PWjspN%2FD%2Fyu2wbWvDjrZTETPv2xBgFiinObKr%2Fe8MSVow5DFOqaYH%2FmKt6vTarscPb4swZjOhEa5kAlNWSbYEybS9uBtjeKviZVj5ktXaGCmpTGqyGtficXVGbaXlh9HNVYB2D5%2FnutKxb0mQTk5nXCf5OKIcJs5jAPiCTkuFQV06xrAiQXHO64gzat4j7rev8RKJsi2K93TA7USGqIRTzGk5Lg9%2FXAtmA7rsaJA9cKUI3D1wylHYBUuSqX%2BrVjWOLrmSSnI%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4Ctl8qqYg
To do what you are asking you'd need to replace the terminal and wires on the machine I think.
You can get a free copy of the parts/wiring at andymanuals@gmail.com
I have the exact same foot pedal in black. Whenever I go to plug it in my sewing machine runs on it’s own super fast, without me even touching the pedal! Is there anyway I can repair this myself or should I get a new foot pedal?
Older foot controllers sometimes have a capacitor that was to prevent radio/Tv interference. They have not been used in decades. When they fail, they fail closed meaning they let the electricity right thru them and into the controller so into the motor. It bypasses the controller button. They are usually silver but can be a cylinder or rectangular cube and other colors, etc. If you open your controller you may see something you don't see on mine in the video. They have 2 wires that connect to where the power cord connects to those screws on top of the ceramic part. That is a common configuration. Just remove the capacitor. by disc the wires or cutting them off right near the screws. Even if that is not the problem it should be removed as it is a fire hazard. We all know to disconnect the cord from the wall first so I won't need to remind you, right? If that is not the problem let me know. Good luck.
Thank you so much
Thanks for watching my channel, jane. Take care.
Thank you so much for your lovey videos Andy! I really like your help. Unfortunally I didn't manage to fix my problem. I just opened my foot pedal and fixed it according to your clear instructions. But the engine is still slipping/spinning without moving, does not sew or does not start even when I push the button down all the way. I am able to hear the motor though. Do you understand what could be wrong? Could it be something else than the foot pedal that is broke? I have a Singer 431G. Sorry for my english, I am swedish.
Hi, Esther. Thanks for watching my channel. You're English and sentence sense is better than many Americans I know, so no need to apologize here. There are a few things that can cause this. Maybe we can do some testing before using tools again. To try and Isolate it a little bit. BTW, is the machine new to you, or you have been using it before and this started happening? When I can hear the motor run, or trying to run, here is the first test I do. Loosen the Stop Moton Wheel as you would before you wind a bobbin and try running the motor now to see if just the handwheel spins normally. If your machine is working OK, when you loosen or release that Stop Motion Wheel/knob the motor only has to spin the handwheel and no other parts, like the needle bar or feed dog, should move. Try that and let me know if the motor can freely spin the handwheel very fast. BTW, if you'd like a FREE copy of the original Instruction Manual for model 431 it is available for download from Singer at this safe link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=431 It's about 100 pages long so you can imagine all the information about your machine and how to use it the manual contains. The Stop Motion info, for example, is on pages 9, 10, 11 with the bobbin winding instructions. Good Luck
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi, Andy! So happy you answered!
Greetings from Australia! Thank you so much for this brilliant series of videos. I have a 99k with this same foot control and it needs restoration. I’m quite confident to do it myself having watched your series. I’ve taken the cover off and have discovered a capacitor installed between the screws that secures the wires. I’m just curious as to it’s purpose, perhaps it’s a requirement here. I also noticed my resistor is ceramic... does that make it older or could this be an Aussie thing? Thanks again for such informative videos. Susan
Greetings, Susan. Welcome to Andy Tube. I'm glad you find my videos helpful. The ceramic resistor housing is an older model, which would make sense as your 99K is an older model. If you know the Serial Number on your machine you can find its age here: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html
About that capacitor. That was to prevent radio interference back in the days. You should just remove it as it is not needed at all (unless that's an Aussie thing with your radios 😉) Capacitors of that age tend to fail and when they do they failed closed, meaning they will send full power to the sewing motor and the machine will run flat out, if the cord in plugged to the outlet even without pushing on the pedal. The carbon resistors can overheat and start a fire also, so nothing good can happen by leaving it in place. I enjoyed working on a model 99K in my "Cute" series. It's a wonderful machine. ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html
@@andytubesewing1953 hi again. thanks for such a quick reply.
the capacitor will come out when I undo the screws for the wires and I wont replace it when reassembling. It also explains why my vintage Husqvarna Viking 21 A took off at warp speed... I now know how to fix it too!
I had a look for a serial number on my machine but can't find one in any of the usual spots. The only number I could find is cast into the metal underside of the machine and it didn't marry up with anything on the Singer site.
I plan on doing my restoration later this week... I'll let you know how I get on.
Thank you so much for all you wonderful information.
Cheers
Susan
@@susanhatton3260 Sounds good. Funny about the Viking 21, hehe. That number on the underside may be the serial number.
ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html
Best of luck with your pedal. Take Care.
hi Andy, my foot controller is identical apart from having a metal capsule between the points with a wire attaching to each one. What is it? Unfortunately one of the wires broke off in my hand. I opened the controller to see if i could fix the zero to full speed effect you describe.
Hello, Susan. I have never seen that in person, but have heard of it many times. When I asked my retired Singer friends they said it was a type of filter to prevent interference with TV/Radio in your home and can be removed and discarded b/c it has been obsolete for decades. Other viewers that removed it said they had no problems using the pedal afterward. Thanks for watching my channel and come back soon.
@@andytubesewing1953 oh that's good then. Thanks for replying and in general for your videos. They're great.
Welcome and best wishes.
Hi Andy . I have the same foot control as this, but I plug it in the pedal does nothing but the sewing machine lights works , so i know theres power going in any idea what the problem could be ????
You do not mention which Model of Singer Machine the foot controller is for. Some machines use a 3-way cord and that can easily provide power to the light without the controller working due to a defective cord. Some machines have a two cord setup with one cord from machine to wall and the other cord from a separate terminal to the foot controller. There are wires inside the machine that runs between terminals that could be broken and the cord from the machine to the controller could easily be defective. In my experience, unless someone had tried to fix the machine inside, most of the time it was a bad wire in the cord to the foot controller, usually from the operator pulling on the wire instead of the actual plug end when removing the wire.
@@andytubesewing1953 Sorry Its for a 201k model
OK thanks, Clarise. The 201K came in four different versions, so 201K-1,-2,-3,-4. The ones with motors came in two different versions and I believe they both had 3-prong terminals to take the cord from the electrical outlet into the machine. There is internal wiring for the direct drive motor, and the external motor model has wire splices behind the 3-prong if I remember rightly. Any of those wires could be broken or loose, including the terminal pins and washers or thumb nuts. Also, the light wires are internal so power could be getting from the splice to the light, but not from the splice to the pedal. The wire or terminations inside the pedal could be defective. Some machines had a radio noise eliminator (now obsolete) that had fuses inside, so maybe a blown fuse or bad component. (Some foot controllers had a similar device but when they went bad it usually caused the motor to run full speed.) There are copies of the original Singer Adjusters Manual for Model 201 available for sale on the internet. Maybe some are free downloads. I think of the 72 pages in it about 13 or 14 concern the light, motor and wiring and how to check it and work on it. I imagine it is your best bet for troubleshooting the problem. I can give you this link to download a FREE parts list (copy of the original) that shows all the parts of the models and their part number and name: parts.singerco.com/CPpartCharts/2_2999/201K1_K2_K3_K4.pdf
That's all I have for you, Clarise. Good Luck.
Andy, today in attempting to loosen the screw with opposite nut inside the foot controller, the whole thing crashed to the floor, breaking the ceramic casing. Guess, I’ll look for an electronic controller now. However, these parts are still in good condition. The carbon discs came flying out, too. Would you like the remnants of this foot controller? Not sure how to arrange it with privacy etc on you tube. Let me know.
I’ll go back to sewing for awhile. Take a break.
Ouch! Sorry to hear that, Candy. I agree at this point economically it makes more sense to buy an electronic foot controller unless someone gives you an old button style. I have a number of spare controller, motor and machine parts at this point, so you just hang onto those parts for the future. It was very kind of you to offer them. Best wishes as you go forward, and take care.
Hoping you still reply to the comments on this video. I'm following your instructions because my pedal goes from 0 to 100 with no in between. My question is... My little disks on the back of the ceramic piece are stuck to it. Should I just leave them?
If you are speaking of the asbestos washers that I point to @16:25 in the video then yes, you can leave them. If they are stuck that can be a sign of the carbons overheating which happens whn the pedal is far out of adjustment as you describe. In later videos you will see me wash the parts and if you do that the washers may slide off, and that is OK too. Just do not reinstall them until they are dry. I have fixed many, many pedals with the "0 to 100" problem and the methods in the videos work very well for me. Good luck, Amy, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for replying Andy! I got everything cleaned and dried. The pedal that I have came with a replacement cord, sort of like a brown extension cord. Obviously someone has had this pedal open at one point. The chalky clay area around those two small screws that release the disks, that has been somewhat cleared out. The screws are locked in there tight. I'm actually taking two pedals apart at the same time. The second one doesn't appear to have been fooled with at all. Everything comes off and out smoothly. This leads me to believe that someone may have used something like loctite or a similar product on those carbon stack release screws. They are stuck in there good. What do you recommend I do? Could I possibly use a type of liquid wrench on them?. Thanks for your help!!!
I have a Singer 237 Fashion Mate with a button foot control. It does not plug in, it is hot wired to motor. I would like to change it over to an electronic foot control. How would I go about that? I could not find your email information.
Hi Rhonda. Here is a link to my video about the 237 foot controller: ua-cam.com/video/fN7NYI2SLeo/v-deo.html
Here is a link to my playlist (21 videos) for Stella, a Singer model 237 restoration: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h.html
Here is a link to a Sew-Classic video about installing an electronic foot controller: ua-cam.com/video/QNPti0gdm5U/v-deo.html
Here is a link to the foot pedal at Sew-Classic. www.shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Control-Electronic-2-Wire-Type-UL-12-amp-SCE168FC.htm
I have used about a dozen of these now and no problems. (Use a surge protector)
Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Hey, my friend! Hope everything is going right with you. Thank you for every single video you upload to teach us about machine repair.
Can you or any of your viewers tell why does the foot controller over heats and makes a kind of frying sound, after it has worked for a few minutes, only?
That usually means the carbon stack ( the discs inside) are failing. They could just need a good cleaning and adjusting as I show in this series, or they could need to be replaced. When the carbon resistor discs control the flow of electricity they get very warm. Even more so at slow sewing speeds. All the electric current is coming into the controller but only a little is going out. If the carbons are defective, like in this video starting at 7:38, the heating problem gets worse: ua-cam.com/video/VCMxh6QAryA/v-deo.html
You can buy new carbons if you can find them. Here is a video about one seller I found: ua-cam.com/video/R4JuQ3o9dB0/v-deo.html
You can also buy used controllers, new carbon stack controllers, and electronic controllers and switch your cords into a new controller.
www.ebay.com/b/Foot-Control-Sewing-Machine-Parts-Attachments-for-Singer/41248/bn_54240059
It can be dangerous to use a controller that gets so hot and makes "frying" sounds. Be careful, friend.
@@andytubesewing1953 LOTS, LOTS , LOTS & LOTS OF THANKS , MY DEAR FRIEND for your reply and explanations... In fact i did clean them a couple months ago... You know what i did? ;-) i thought : maybe because those discs were not packed tight enough to let the electricity flow smoothly and THAT was causing the 'frying'... i chose to put 2 short soft springs that will fit in those tubes re-placed the carbon discs ... Tried my controller ... annnnd THAT seems to have changed everything ... i mean the controller does not seem to heat that much ... Even at very low speed ... But i need to try it several times before sending the singer 611g to my daughter who has started loving SEWING
@@adihcarmachouk3383 that is certainly a creative fix! I hope that works out for you and your daughter. Thanks for sharing it with us.
See you next time.
@@adihcarmachouk3383 does the bobbin ever sew quietly in the 611G? Mine rattles and thread catches under the bobbin holder on the back dark metal thing. It sounds like it is going to jam underneath all the time and then does!
Thsnk you! You’re the best!
You leave the nicest comments. Thanks a lot. 🙏
Last Thursday, I didn’t know much about sewing machines, I had a Kenmore 385.15612 that I got for my grand mother. I dismantled it just to see what was inside but couldn’t understand too much… I wanted to change but didn’t want a new machine. I wanted an old one, a solid one…after some research, I knew I wanted a Singer401, I looked for 3 months and I finally found it and bought it on Thursday, she was in bad shape and thanks to you, I now have a machine I can understand and repair all by myself, I can’t believe I did that and I owe it to you. I am proud of what I did and you makes me feel proud of myself, that’s worth a nice comment :D Sorry for ALL the comments haha!!
You should be proud of yourself and your determination. You're a quick learner and have the interest to do it. It's going to be great and you'll know how to care for it forever. Nicely done 🏆⭐
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you sooo much!!
Hi Andy pls help me. I have a same foot controller and my machine is when I plug in, it's just start working non-stop constantly. So what do you think? I bought yesterday was everything fine but after 2 hours using happend this situation. If you have any guesses why don't keep inside. Thank you have a great day!
Regard George!
A couple things can cause this. Rarely the spring/rocker mechanism that compresses the carbon stack for faster speed can get "stuck" in full power mode. Cleaning the controller like in this video series can fix that. A more common thing people find when this has happened is a defected type of capacitor or similar inside the pedal that is wired or connected across the two leads. Some pedals like this were modified with that to prevent interference with TV and Radio in the house. Of course, they have not been needed for decades now, but there are still pedals that have them installed. When that device "fails" it often fails "closed" meaning it just connects the wires into a closed circuit and gives full electrical power to the motor. Pushing on the button does nothing any longer. Only unplugging the cord from the wall stops the power to the motor. When doing the restoration of the pedal and opening it up if you see that device, like a white cylinder or "transistor" with wires coming out each end and connected to the screws holding the wires (leads) from the cord, you can just remove the device and throw it away. Take a look inside as see if you have one in your pedal. Here is a video about what I mean: ua-cam.com/video/mDX8csUa1Mo/v-deo.html
Sometimes the device was also put inside motors: ua-cam.com/video/Ez2P3hzk4_s/v-deo.html
They were sometimes referred to as "Rheostats"
Good Luck and thanks for watching my channel.
So far I can say it it it's working again perfectly I did everything step by step like you and also I took off that white thing. So thank you for the advice it was help full! Thanks a lot and take care!
@@szpixszitv7459 Nicely done! It was rewarding to fix it I bet. Thanks for sharing the news and take care.
hi andy my i have same pedals as yours but why if i put the plug on the wall socket it's work even if im not push the pedal switch.. i think i need to replace the fuse or what should i do help me plsssz.... one question is it work without a fuse
FUSE? NO BUILT-IN FUSE. There may be a small capacitor or resistor that connects between the shorting bars or wires. That was to prevent interference on the televisions of decades ago. It is obsolete and can/should be removed. If it is defective it is just shorting the two leads together and applying full speed to the motor with no control. Remove it. It may be white or silver.
Watch this video starting at 13:45 where I explain the shorting bars or tabs. That could be one place the old capacitor/resistor is, or it could be between the two screws that hold the wires to the unit. Taking out that old obsolete unit should fix the run-away action of always full power without the button being pushed. The whole series about this pedal shows how to remove, clean, adjust, replace parts for optimum performance. ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html
Thanks for watching Andy Tube.
@@andytubesewing1953 ok andy i remove the resistor or capacitor and it's now working so good tnx to ur advise. .
@@guiarrathereseguansing2562 Success! Congratulations. Thanks for letting me know.
hi Andy, I have a 201K knee control that I would like to convert to foot control...have you done that?
I'm not sure if you mean a treadle. This video shows how to download free manuals and parts list> There are several 201 manuals. ua-cam.com/video/NC51ePq0Q7M/v-deo.html
I have a Service Guide I bought years ago. You can email my UA-cam channel at andytube53@gmail.com and I'll be happy to send it to you. Good Luck.
Andy Tube thanks, no I meant electric foot control. I have since found out that I need to get a new bolt on motor with an integrated foot controller. As I am in New Zealand, I can't use any electric parts from anywhere else. I think I have found someone to supply what I am needing here.
Thanks for letting me know, and best wishes. New Zealand? Nice!
Andy Tube I took a punt and ordered one directly from China on ebay. $36NZ for a black bolt on motor with foot control and it works perfectly.
SCORE! Nicely done sir! That's like $25 us. Really glad it worked out for you.
Hey there, I just recently bought a vintage Singer 347 (my first machine!). The pedal does the common 0-100 with no in between speeds. Would you recommend restoration for a beginner or is this pretty advanced stuff that I should hold off on doing? Your video makes it seem fairly simple, but pros can do that :) thanks!
I have so many emails and comments from people who have done it. I think you'll be fine. My approach is that your pedal is not really usable now, so how much worse could you make it? If you'd rather not, you can buy a new electronic pedal and use the existing cords or get new cords on the new pedal. BTW, the age range of people who mention it is 14 to 81 Y.O. and some said they had never done anything like it. The 81 Y.O. lady said she must have checked the cord was not plugged into the wall about "50 times, I am so afraid of being shocked" but she fixed the pedal on her one-owner 301A. Good Luck, Emily.
@@andytubesewing1953 I definitely relate to the 81 YO's fear! I would definitely love to keep the original pedal with the machine, it has the machine blue/turquoise color cord to match. My cleaners are limited due to the virus and stay home orders, i was able to find some rust stain remover (called Zud powder) and Brasso metal polish. Also good ol' 409 cleaner. I figured the rust would work well for the metal screws and spring as I imagine that is stiff and rusty, Brasso for the copper tabs and contact plate, then 409 for the general cleaning parts.
@@emilys1996 Those cleaners should work. The 409 you can cut with water. Just test a small inconspicuous place. If it does not work out, I have transferred the blue cords into new electronic pedals with good results. I just could not give up those blue matching cords either. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 So after cleaning and inspecting, I've found the culprit-- the darn carbon discs. One is broken. The nerve of it to break after nearly 60 years!
@@emilys1996 Man, they just don't make 'em like they used too! Sigh... Glad you found it and with some adjusting, you can have better balance and control. So, you are no longer a beginner now and before long you'll qualify for OSMG rating. (old sewing machine guy/gal) congratulations Emily. Well, Emily means to strive and excel so I knew you'd do it.😀
Hi Andy, Totally brilliant what you've created here Andy, its become my new obsession during pandemic. I think I have watched just about every video on the 400 series and have now purchased my very own 411G as a result !! Having a slight problem and can't read it anywhere in the comments so thought I'd ask it myself. I have this same foot pedal, ceramic interior housing has broken and remaining pieces previously been glued together badly, now come apart again and spilled out the "coins". I'm thinking an electronic pedal might be the safer way to go heat wise, cant find one with 3 round pins in a row here in UK. Is it possibly to use the old loom and connect to newer pedal? I imagine it is, but need to run it past "Andy-Wan Kenobi" first ;0).
Loving every minute , keep it coming please, and a restoration of a 411G would just perfect......don't you think?, eh-eh-wink-wink-nudge-nudge).
I'm glad you found my channel, Dave. I've never seen a 411G in person, but only admired them from afar. Like a 401A with added chain stitch feature and you can't beat that. You mention "loom" and I guess that is the cords/plugs? I'll do almost anything to save and use the original vintage cords on a machine. I love the quality of them, the originality, and they are often color-coded to the machine itself. As long as I feel the cord has electrical integrity I will reuse it. I have often repair small nicks and slices with Liquid Tape to save the cords as shown at the beginning of this video: ua-cam.com/video/mVX2Io_tomk/v-deo.html As for the electric foot controller; I have installed a dozen or so for people and the speed control is incredible and I find they hardly, if ever, get a temperature above room temperature. On all but one, I reused the vintage cords on the new pedal. The only drawback I have had (with the pedal) is some of them do not allow the full speed the motor is capable of, but only allow a lower RPM. I don't think most people would care, or maybe even notice, but having my wife test every machine I do she commented 'It's great, so smooth, but why a little slower?" I plugged a carbon stack pedal in ad found she was correct. The electric pedal (some, not all) produced about 85 to 90% of the top speed of the carbon-style pedal.
I even had two of the same brand act this way, will one restricting the highest speed of the motor, but the other permitting even faster speed than the original carbon stack pedal.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy, As you didn't laugh or warn me off, I went ahead and bought and fitted a new foot controller to the old cords and plugs, (happy to say it didn't have any nicks or require any work). At last I've actually heard my machine run and she sounds really smooooth, so it looks like a showering might be a few years away still, shame it looks like fun ;).
I've just decided to run through all the dial settings to produce a version of The Rosetta Stone, and I'm surprised to say there isn't any difference between DL,EL,FL,GL, HL (I've Stopped at H for now). Both the followers are in contact with Cam stack, they in turn push against the ? and move the needle bar driving arm(?).
Camstack timing mark is when needle is at Bottom Dead Center.
Have I got it wrong, should DR,ER,FR,GR,HR all look the same as the L's did earlier?
Waiting with baited breath.....Dave
@@davelittle6970 I get the impression that you feel every combination of the two dials should make a different pattern, and I'm not sure that is true. I've never tried them all myself. The stitch chart under the flip-up lid shows Primary Patterns and Combinations Patterns. The different settings of the Red Lever can change those patterns also. There are some pages of examples of viable patterns in the Instruction Manual, as well as instructions for using the system. A FREE copy of the Instruction Manuals are still available for download from Singer USA at this link www.singer.com/search/support?title=401
I'm not a member of any online groups, but several viewers have spoken of them. One sent me a link to the 401A group on Facebook if you are interested. facebook.com/groups/Singer-401-401a-Vintage-Sewing-Machines-and-other-Slant-Shank-Machines-621997798160882/ I've been told that there are many experienced VSSM users on these type of groups and that may be a good place for you to get better info about your machine. Congratulations on replacing your controller. I remember when I thought 60-year-old vintage machines were "clean" inside too. 😉 Like they say sometimes, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Happy sewing, Dave.
Can you purchase the carbon disc's on the inside?
Yes. The only ones I have been able to find are in a ceramic tube made for another style of Singer foot pedal, BUT you can open the ube and pour out the newly made carbons. They are made twice as thick as the original carbons but there are enough to divide them in half and fill both sides of the foot pedal in this video. I would replace all the old ones and use the new ones. If they do not fill the spaces then add a few of the best older ones. The replacement tube is shown and talked about in this video: ua-cam.com/video/R4JuQ3o9dB0/v-deo.html Currently the best price seems to be here: millardsewing.com/product/carbon-resistance-unit-new-for-singer-foot-controller/ This is a good company and I usually call them to be sure the part is in stock. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
Hi Andy I hope you can answer me, is it normal for the foot pedal to feel hot, not warm hot?
Warm, yes... it uses a carbon stack for resistance which always creates heat, but if it's getting hot, like ouch hot that is a classic sign it needs a cleaning and adjusting at the least. Also, the slower you sew the more resistance on the stack and the warmer/hotter it gets. The carbons can actually breakdown and crumble from excessive heat, so don't wait to clean it up. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks!
@@californiahighdesertpreach2261 👍
Hi. Are you able to tell me which colour wires go to which terminals on the foot pedal. I have red and black but forget which one goes where. Thanks in advance and for your great video. P.S. I’m trying to fix my mum’s machine and it is a 201K.
Hi, Andy, this is Andy (I've been waiting a long time for that) you can go here and download some old Singer wiring diagrams that may help: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/sewing-machine-wiring-diagrams.pdf or even better, you can download a free copy of the original "Adjusters Manual for Singer 201s" imagespast.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/singer-201-service-adjusters-manual.pdf It should have everything about the machine (I hope) I've never even seen a model 201 in person so can't tell you off-hand about the wiring except for the old telephone men rule, ""When in Doubt, Red is on the RIght"", haha. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks Andy. I rewired it already and all seems to be working.
@@andytubesewing1953 BTW - neither of the links you shared with me provided any insight into the wiring of the 201K. Anyway - I worked on the assumption that red was positive and black was negative. (And red was on the right). I too was a telephone tech many years ago :)
@@spacedudey2k 👍
Hi my foot pedal works without me pressing on it any advice please?
Have you open it and looked inside? Many years ago capacitors were placed inside the foot pedal to prevent radio & TV interference. When the capacitor(s) go bad they "close" and just send full power to the motor. If you find a capacitor inside you can simply remove it. It is not needed for modern radio and TV equipment. It would be wired or connected between the two wires of the cord or between the two screws where the cord connects. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you so much
I will have a look
It is a Singer 611G that didnt serve for over 20 years but it is a good one
You are so kind to reply thanks again
@@djamb117 You are welcome. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you
I open it and It was dirty
It work again
Thanks a lot
@@djamb117 So it did NOT have the capacitor? It was only very dirty? It's is rare that it gets that dirty to get stuck on high like that, but I'm glad you made it clean and got it to work. Nicely done and congrats.
Andy are you still engaging with people over this foot pedal? I bought a singer 611G with the carbon pile foot pedal. I cleaned, greased and oiled it. The machine was working so did a half hour test and the machine just took off so had to turn it off at the wall. Pedal was very hot. I wondered if it is now defunked or if I clean the contacts and THIS TIME I run it in an UN carpeted floor, will it be ok? Many thanks
Bernie
It sounds like the pedal was stuck in the "full power" mode. You can always open the pedal and inspect the contacts and carbons discs and springs/rockers as I show in this series of videos. Did you open it up before when you "Cleaned, greased and oiled it"?
I'm asking because sometimes local Singer shops put a type of capacitor across the wires to stop interference with TV & Radio in the house. Your machine is a little "new" for that, but the capacitors are known to fail and when they do they just let full power into the pedal and the pedal runs at high speed without any button control. If you find that capacitor it can just be removed.
There are also springs and a plunger/rocker system on these pedals that allow full contact when the button is fully depressed. If the pedal was out of adjustment and the button fully depressed it could have gotten stuck (springs/plunger/rocker) and that is why you had to disconnect at the outlet. If you can't fix it you could buy a new electronic style foot controller that does not use carbons and never gets warm, let alone hot. You can buy it without a cord and reuse your vintage cord, or buy it with cords that fit your model of machine. They are available at several places online for $20 to $40.
@@andytubesewing1953 you are a star. I followed your video and opened her up. Bit trepidacious but I managed it. The brass contacts were black and there was a small burn mark on the metal disk under the adjusting nut. I used an Emery board to scour them all back to brass and wiped down with rubbing alcohol. There was a golden cylinder in there which wasn't in your video so maybe that is a capacitor? Anyway I tried to examine the carbon disks but both columns had the stoppers/contacts in and they wouldn't come out so I just gave them as good a clean as I could and put it back together. I placed it on a wooden board and I turned it on and used it for a good half hour and it barely got warm. Yay me. Turned into an electrician at 64! My husband thought I was crackers but I didnt have anything to lose by looking and trying eh.
What I did find though was it always sounds like it's going to jam. The case positioning bracket is in correctly but it all sounds a bit gangly in there and several times it has jammed underneath with thread catching under the door of the case positioning bracket. It is tightly positioned under the spring and is clipped back to the left in line with the bobbin case holder. Just seems to be a bit of a poor design compared to the brother 345 that I bought at the same time. I've never had a vintage sewing machine so don't ask why I suddenly bought 2. Well it was to sew leather cuffs back on a leather jacket where the sleeves were yoo long but neither machine has enough tork to sew through what I want them to, although the new motor 95 watt motor upgrade I put on the brother is best. I've been busy you see.
@@moiraberniegatt9491 Yay you! Good job. You shouldn't have any thread catching at all. A good cleaning and oiling can clear up 80% of problems with a machine. You can download a FREE Singer Instruction Manual for Model 611 from Singer at this link:
www.singer.com/search/support?title=611
Pages 91 to 96 have cleaning and lubrication instructions. Don't forget to oil the hook race and shaft.
If that doesn't fix it then here are a couple of videos you may be interested in. The machines in the videos have similar parts to your 611 The bobbin area parts: ua-cam.com/video/JLYNpmFQ3wQ/v-deo.html
Checking & setting the Thread Clearance between the bobbin case and the positioning bracket spring: ua-cam.com/video/OXKqZp87eN4/v-deo.html
Yay you!~
@@andytubesewing1953 oh boy Andy. The Bobbin case Spring holder was way too wide which was causing all of the rattling and jiggling. I watched your suggested video, followed the beautifully clear instructions and I now have a MUCH smoother machine. Also the foot pedal is so responsive and smooth and not any warmer than skin temperature after an hour. I can not tell you the pleasure and increased confidence your videos have given me. I wish you lived around the corner but with your generosity, we ALL have the next best thing. Thanks again.
@@moiraberniegatt9491 Thanks for making my morning! I love hearing this and it's the reason I do the videos. Hey, the whole world is my neighbor on UA-cam, haha. Tell your friends please and stop by anytime. Take care.
I knew that you would have a video directly addressing my problem with the foot pedal. I am sewing something that requires precision and the machine does a groaning sound and then goes from zero to one million in a millisecond. Less than ideal, resulting in expletives from me.
hey Andy tube has a video for that haha I'm glad that you found it I hope that it helps let me know if you have questions
Andy Tube I do have a question: In terms of electrical safety, is it better to buy a new foot pedal instead of cleaning up/repairing the original? Do they make foot pedals with three prongs for extra safety?
The original pedal can be as "safe" as a new one. I've never seen a foot pedal with a 3-prong cord.
This original type is called a carbon "stack" or "pile". The more you press on it, the closer the carbon discs are pressed together. That creates less & less resistance to the electricity coming from the outlet and lets more and more go to the motor. Speed control. When you are trying to sew slowly you only press a little on the button and only a little electricity is going thru to the motor, BUT all the electricity is coming into it, I think. This makes the carbon discs get hot, sometimes very.
A new electronic style control does not have that problem and you can control it at very, very slow speeds with no temperature changes. Here is the one I like to use: shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Control-Electronic-2-Wire-Type-UL-12-amp-SCE168FC.htm
I usually just transfer the old cord into the new controller. The seller even made a video about doing that. She will also wire it for you and sells cords for different sewing machine models.
There are many styles and prices for new electronic pedals, so shop around if you like. Be aware you should use a surge protector with it as you should with any electronic device. If you have any safety concerns about your original controller then switching to a new electronic one is a good idea for you. BTW, you can buy some new styles of carbon stack controllers, but why bother with that?
Thank you for the information. I did order a new pre-wired pedal from Sew Classic. I plan on taking the old foot pedal apart and following your videos to restore it, just because I think it will be interesting.
@@athertonca ou will enjoy the control you get with an electronic pedal. I think you'll have fun with the old one, and if you restore more machines in the future you will know how to test/repair them.
Did the lawyers make you say that?
So, you know about the lawyers then? 😉
“You cannot live without the lawyers, and certainly you cannot die without them.” - Joseph H. Choate
Thanks for watching my channel.
When the foot heats up the singer machine works on its own. Where is the problem
It is probably an old capacitor that is failing. When it fails the motor will run as soon as the cord is plugged in. The capacitor was used to stop interference with radio/tv and is not needed at all any longer. Here are some videos about it and how to remove it. Thanks for watching my channel. ua-cam.com/video/iMOwDH8yLUM/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/BPSPmySv0Dg/v-deo.html