HOW TO: ULTIMATE Ford Focus Zetec timing belt replacement video (2000-2004)
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2018
- The ultimate guide to replacing your timing belt on the 2000-2004 Ford Focus Zetec with MassiveSpeedSystem.com
PLEASE REMEMBER NOT TO TORQUE THE CAM BOLTS WITH ANY SORT OF PRESSURE ON THE CAM TOOL OR YOU WILL BREAK THE BACK OF THE CAM! YOU MUST HOLD THE CAM WITH A WRENCH WHILE TORQUING THE BOLTS. ITS A GOOD IDEA TO REMOVE THE TOOL FOR FINAL TORQUE ONCE THEY ARE SNUG.
Parts list:
Timing belt tensioner
Timing belt
Timing belt idler pulley
Accessory belt
Accessory idler
Accessory belt tensioner
(Items to replace while you are in there)
Motor mount on passenger frame rail
Water pump
Valve cover Gasket
Tools:
Massivespeedsystem.com MATO'8754 timing tool kit (link below)
massivespeedsystem.com/_massiv...
Ratchets: 1/4 3/8 1/2 drive
Extensions
Floor jack and jack stands
lumber (2x4 or similar)
Torx bits: T50 T55
Sockets: 6mm 8mm 10mm 13mm 15mm 18mm 19mm
6mm Allen socket or key
10mm wrench
Screwdrivers
Adjustable wrench - Авто та транспорт
If you have any questions feel free to drop them below!
That Racing Life yes it was a T55. Thanks. But when I started my car it now shakes. What did I do wrong? Please help!
Oh man... I figured it out. My 4th spark plug wire was not connected properly. Now she’s running good. Silly overlook like that can give you heart attack!
Glad you got it sorted!
That Racing Life If the belt isn’t broken or “skipped”, can you just remove the timing-belt tensioner and idler along with the old belt and slip the new parts on without alignment tools?
@@xxhyjynxx5939 Would def need the tools. Teh cams will move once you remove the belt tension from the valve springs' pressure on the cam lobes
Honesty this is the only other zetec timing belt video thats actually good, the other one being the one made by zx2 fast. I thought you guys did a great job telling everyone the few major things needed to do a proper time job on this motor. I own a 2000 ( well 99.5, manufacturing date was 07/28/99) ford escort zx2 and before spending a hell of alot of time studying and practicing, making mistakes and fixing them, there was only the one video made by anyone with true practical experience and knowledge regarding this engine that points out the things that makes this engine diverge from normal timing belt jobs. I've seen many professional mechanics do this job completely wrong so it's nice to see one who knows what they are doing and you made a awesome video in the process. I especially like how you mentioned that lower idler being nothing but trouble because when I purchased this vehicle from it's previous one and only owner it had 88 thousand miles on it and during an attempt to fix the rough idle in the vehicles history was a timing belt job by the Ford dealership in which they removed the idler next to the crank and when I purchased the car I did a timing belt/ everything else you did in this video and I noticed the lower idler was missing so I put it on there not knowing ford had just done the job, mainly bc coolant was leaking from the weep whole letting me know it was time for a new one, and 3 months later the camshaft idler across from the tensioner snapped clean off with just the threads of the bolt remaining in the head and it was a royal pain in the ass to fix that I actually bought an air hose fitting and used a 8x1.25 tap to make new threads for the new bolt then I used a 10x1.5 die to make external threads on it and then i tapped the head of the engine with the 10x1.5 and put locktite on the outer threads and screwed it in then used a grinder with a diamond blade and grinded the hose fittings nut driver section off so that it was flush with the head again and this is after hell coiling it before and it failed again so this was the real fix. After the first helicoi fix failed I realized through turning the engine over a million times by hand that that lower idler was putting more stress on the cam idler above it and actually the whole exhaust side so I loosend the tensioner and the intake and vct sprockets and took the lower idler out of the equation and it hasn't even showed signs of failing since. I realize there are infinite variables here but after checking many many times the tension on the belt and correct phasing and bolt strength and clearances the lower idler was the only new variable. Sorry for the long post loved your video if u ever get a escort zx2 in the shop film it ! Lol . Keep doing what your doing
Thanks for the feedback! Glad you enjoyed the video. 😁
@@thatracinglife ditto here. I suspect I have a belt that's either gone, or close to it (computer throwing both bad crank sensor and timing codes, who the heck knows when or even IF it's ever gotten a new belt), this video spells it out extremely well, thank you.
However, it would be very nice to have an addendum to this that covers those Ztechs with a VCT cam on the exhaust side that cam can move somewhat while running and I'd like to make sure that I have it set properly when putting the belt on.
I'll give y'all a back yard mechanic trick you don't have to take any more off than the cam gear cover and the crank pulley and cover and loosen the tensioner all the way and just feed the belt down the tensioner side then turn the side of the belt that is toward the front of the car side ways and work it between the divider and the block till it goes through and is in correct position against the front pulley . Then the rest is just making sure your timing is good
I give you guys props for actually showing where the crank pin inserts! Even you guys stated, "IT GOES ON THE BACK OF THE BLOCK" Which can be misleading, it's on the front of the motor behind the catalytic convertor/slightly to the right/driver side of cat. When I did my timing & water pump in the fall of 17, the video's online didn't show exactly where the pin location was, everyone said, "On the back of the block so, I assumed it went in on the rear, the firewall side of the block, Looked & looked. BUT, Eventually I found it behind the cat,
I do show exactly where it is and explain it's location. Since the crank pulley is the front of the motor and flywheel is the back (cyl 1 near crank pulley and 4 near flywheel) that's where the front and back terminology comes from. But I do see how that can be a bit confusing! Thanks for watching and dropping the comments! 😁
Thank you for clearing up the non interference thing. I thought so (after extensive research), and shops still argue me about it. I'm just going to show them this video next time 👍 great vid, super thorough, thanks! Btw, keep an eye out for my 01' Focus Custom build!!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the excellent and informative video! You helped answer some crucial questions I had on my upcoming timing belt change for my daughter's 2003 Zetec. It is good to know that these particular engines are non-interference too. Also, I wasn't going to loosen the cam pullies till I watched your video... you've saved me a ton of pain in the ass. Thank you.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching. If you run in to any issues let me know!
@@thatracinglife , hey bud... I did actually run into an issue regarding the idler pulley (Only one on this model) It was completely hashed. It held no tension and now I am not sure how to line up the TDC as the pulley is not on there to hold tension while turning the crankshaft. The cams will not turn with the crankshaft now that the belt is too loose. How can I get the cams in sync with the crank or first piston? Thank you.
@@llewkamiamos6864 You need to put a screw driver in the spark plug hole in cyl 1 and turn the engine to find TDC on cyl #1. Then you need the cam tool mentioned in the video to put in the back of the cams. You can turn the cams by the hex in the middle of the camshaft. Hope that helps.
@@thatracinglife, thank you for that quick response. I will do just that. Now, to get that crankshaft pulley bolt off with no impact tool. Yikes. Heh.
@@llewkamiamos6864 reminiscing on doing this a few times years ago I was reminded of how the crank pulley bolt was about the hardest part of the whole job. If you do NOT have a serious air impact wrench do NOT do much of anything until you get that bolt untorqued.
I had some form of tool to hold the pulley but I have to make a new one.
That bolt has a huge head to it and it has a tremendous amount of friction to turning it with pressure on it.
Good luck
great guide! i haven't done my cambelt yet but ive done practically everything else on my beloved mk1! long live the zetec!
Thank you!
Awesome video! Love the step by step video instruction.
Thanks!
Thanks for this just what I needed really helpful
👍👍
Got a cast aluminum thermostat housing from yall and it's been working great, thanks-
Awesome!
good video, doing mine again soon, good to have a refresh.
Great vid
Thanks for taking the time to let me know the bolt sizes.
Thats crazy, i have the same thing going on with my black 1994 Ford Escort LX Coupe, which is like this one, but about 10 years older. My mechanic thought the motor was blown, but to his surprise, the timing belt was shredded, so he bought a new timing belt for me to install on it, because he is done with fords lol
Thank you. I've just changed my first ever timing belt, with 100% success. I will note that: I had to remove the starter and lock the flywheel with a screwdriver to remove my drive sprocket since my timing belt had broken while driving. I then had to adjust the cams back into alignment at TDC, which was easy enough by spinning them by the sprockets (the exhaust cam was just 1/8th rotation off from the intake). I found it easier to get the timing pin into the plug from the top, by removing the coolant hoses from the thermostat housing.
And my motor had two idler pulleys on the timing belt, I simply didn't replace the lower one and removed it, runs great. Pretty sure the old one was at fault for the timing belt snapping, the inner edge of the pulley was all kinds of roughed up, and lined up with the marks on the timing belt.
Congrats!
Nice job with the Video Guys!
Thanks!
If anyone is struggling with the cam gears especially on your own, you can just leave the cam gears tight put in your timing slab to stop the camshaft from rotating and put the belt on by hand just make the tensioner loose so there is maximum slack then use force to bump the belt on. (The last part I put on was the idler) using 2 small screwdrivers helped me lift the belt as well.
Less work for me and it came out the exact way
Thanks again for the video guys it helped me alot
Didn't want to take my advice that's cool. Yes you can do it. Prying on your new belt with sharp tools is never a good idea. I always suggest doing it the proper way as shown in the video. Glad we could help though!
@@thatracinglife it was last resort honestly
First belt I did I had no special tools and the cam sprockets had no marks whatsoever but the belt wasn't broken , just renewing before it broke.
I made marks all over so I could basically have everything in the same place as before and just ' changed the belt ' .
I don't believe I even took the valve cover off.
Great video I wish I would have watched it last night before doing mine but it's whatever 😂
Haha. Well now you know at least!
Nice video!!👍
Thanks!
Great video thanks for the help I did it all on my own with very small knowledge one engines but you guys have taught me multiple lessons
Thank you mate
Glad we could help!!!
Thumbs UP, guys! :-) Same project on my 2002 1.8Zetec Focus.
i have a zx2 and am having problems with the phasing of the exhaust cam, any ideas that would be of help
Yep. Same thing happened to mine at about 190k. Just "died" when I hit the gas at a light. Same symptoms. The tensioner on these tend to make squealing noises as they age as well. The European versions can be interference btw which may be why you see it referenced as such.. Great car overall. Thanks for the great video
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
These ztec motors are great motors great power and last a long time if you care for them very few problems
Will the same power steering pump work on a Ford Escape with the same engine?
Bravo guys. The head of the engine twisted and broke the seal. Reaper 1600cc 16v 66KV 90HP.There is no other damage except that water enters the pistons and blows it out through the exhaust, so that the engine shuts down. I want to fix it and put my head back, but I need a tutorial on how much Newton it takes to tighten the head.
Do you have any info or videos on aftermarket cams and adjustable cam gears?
Not yet. What would you like to know?
Great video. Please let me know how many torques f/lb when you have tighten the cam bolts and crank bolt? Thank you your useful video.
I do not know off the top of my head on that one. I would have to look it up.
50 Ft Lbs on the cam gear bolts themselves, and 85 Ft Lbs on the crank pulley bolt
@@Massive20 Thanks for the Specs!
do you have a vid for doing the head gasket change out for the same motor??
No we don't sorry. Might be something we can do eventually though!
Man I was jamming to the music bro !!!..LA style music.
Hard to find anything remotely decent with UA-cam copyright laws. Lol. Glad someone likes it!
If no impact gun, how do I loose and tighten the crankshaft bolt, without taking off the starter. The method with putting it in gear and push the brake doesn't work, because I'm just by myself.
where is the ac low pressure switch located
Thank you guys great video, ion the three pieces tool set what are theirs sizes? Thanks and cheers from Ontario ca, I suscribed to you channel
Thank you for the Sub! Which tool do you mean?
@@thatracinglife the bar that holds the cams in the back, and the bolt that holds the crankshaft, thank you again
There is a link in the description for that tool kit.
I was wondering can anyone tell me if the 1999 ford contour 2.0l is Interference or non-interference
USA NON. EU interference.
Thank you. Got mine put back together. Is it normal to run rough for a minute and then smooth out? Test drove it and it runs smooth now but for the first crank, it didn't sound good.
Depending on what all you took apart, it could run a little rough at first. Glad its all good now though!
How did you tighten the crank bolt? How did you keep the motor from spinning over when tightening the crank bolt? Is it okay to leave the crank pin it, then tighten the crank bolt??? This summer hopefully, I plan on rebuilding my zetec, boring it out & hopefully adding some power? Possibly shave the head/raise the compression, add new cams & followers, & if I can afford individual throttle body set up-itbs, wide band, ecu, injectors, & tune...That should wake this zetec up & give it a bit more air & fuel=more hp...
Impact is your friend! otherwise you can always hold the flywheel with a holding tool or pry bar. Another trick is to put it in gear and have someone hold the brakes.
I actually had the head off to do a gasket and had to take the cams off... dumb question but I’m stuck here. Do you leave the cam journals loose when you put the alignment tool in? Or tighen them and then put the tool in?
Cam caps need to be tight. Cam gear bolts need to be lose so they can move in to position while under tension.
Hi. Could you please tell me the torx size for the camshaft? Largest I have is T50 but it’s too small
Pretty sure thats a T55 torx. Good luck!
Where are you guys located at
It needs a 5-speed manual in it! or the 6-speed from the SVT Focus.
Hi, can you do a turbo kit on this engine, cheap build
I am interested to learn how to turbo any NA
That would be up to Massive Speed System. He has a few Focus' laying around. I have many other projects of my own at the moment. Maybe one day we will do that!
i have a 1995 ford fiesta 1.6 16v zetec. its an European model. is it also a non interference engine? it has a engine code of L1G.
I am not 100% on that one. I'll see if I can get you an answer.
I got all New parts for my project, But I can't find the camshaft tool kit, where do i find it, so I can do my timing belt
There is a link in the description. Or just click here: massivespeedsystem.com/_massive_speed_system_/massive_absolute_timing_tool_set/mato8754/i-273565.aspx
I own this car and I love it. non-interference engine is a big deal :D
My 02 ford zx2 camshaft was stripped on intake pulley torx bolt. I can get the exhaust one loose. Anyway to make it work? Also main question is, what should i look for while turning crank 4 revolutions? If the timing is off a little, will my engine be destroyed if i tried to start it
You can try to line up the exhaust and crank with the intake cam. If you can get them to line up it should be ok. Not ideal, but maybe possible. You can get a new intake cam if that doesn't work. After you turn it over you need to re-check the timing marks to make sure they are lined up. If they aren't you need to re-time it. Although it wont destroy the Zetec engine, it will destroy many other engines. It is always a good practice to re-check the timing marks either way. Even if it doesn't destroy it, you will have to take it all apart again to re-time it. No point doing your work twice!
@@thatracinglife Got it man, All from this video. Amazing runnin rough ay the moment but my homemade air vac isnt holdin up lol. Thanks man youre the best
Any time!
Hey I have a question... I have an 04 svt focus with “bent valves” is there any way to keep my timing set while removing the head for rebuild or will I have to do the TDC procedure too? Also where would the cams be set to when I install the head again?
Massive makes a specific timing tool kit to make this foolproof. Check out the link in description to get to the website. Or type massivespeedsystem.com
Thank you!
rockauto vs OEM/?? most parts are about the same price??
Hello I've done my timing belt change and now it has a rough idle and shakes but only on idle. I can rev the engine with no problems. As soon as I give even a 100rpm the shaking stops and the engine sings
I think this may be the crankshaft out of time I must not have set it perfect as I used the tipex trick
Could be a ton of different things causing that. If you didn't buy the Massive tool in the video and tried to time it another way then that's possible. I don't think I can really help you without being there to diagnose it. Make sure your plug wires are all on tight. That's the simplest solution. Always start simple.
I'm having trouble with the timing belt tensioner. Turning the Allen key doesn't move the notched piece at all. So basically it will not hold the correct tension.
Check to make sure all the parts are seated inside each other and on the engine properly. I think there are a few pieces that need to line up so everything locks together.
Does the stroke #1 is on matter or can it be on any of the 4 strokes as long as the piston itself is at TDC? I've been looking into doing this and am not finding a definitive answer as to if it has to be TDC on the compression stroke or just at TDC.
Turn it to number 1 TDC before you remove it. If it's already out of time it shouldn't matter as long as all the timing tools line up. They will only line up with number 1 at tdc
@@thatracinglife Just so I understand it the piston just has to be at TDC on #1 it doesnt have to be on the compression stroke or the power stroke the piston being at TDC on #1 is all that matters right?
@kurtiscal3msetccdwell618 the cam timing is what will dictate valve timing. (Aka what stroke its on) cams spin at half crank speed. So you could technically only have the engine 180 off if you did it by the pistons. Don't worry about any of that though. Buy the timing tools, as long as they are in and everything is lined up you'll be good. When you remove the tools, spin the engine over a couple times by hand and line up the tools one more time to verify it's all good and you're golden!
I have a question, I replaced a timimging belt, tensioner and idle pully.. on a 2002 zetec 2.0
And after the service... it sound like it was trying to breath... and it ran roughly....like it was missing firing. So I doubled checked my, work once again.. retimmed everything, using the special cam Alignment tools. But still the same..
I noticed the crank breather hose had collapsed...replaced that, and the PVC and the small elbow rubber hose.. made a little difference, but not by much... also the brakes are stiff... I know it's now, something to deal with the brake booster/master cylinder...
Have you guys ever experienced this issue...
I've checked for a miss fire... but all spark plugs are good.. and wires are new....
I'm not too sure.. what it could be...
Sounds like maybe the vacuum hose to the brake booster might be damaged or maybe the check valve is backwards or has failed. I'd start there. Otherwise could just be a vacuum leak elsewhere
While I was replacing the brake booster, and master cylinder... I've noticed the vaccum hose was disconnected at the intake manifold. Plugged it back in...and the car ran perfectly... I was shocked that I didnt even check for that...in the first place.
But the booster was on its last leg...as well. Removed and replaced... then bleed the brakes.. the customer was excited... thanks man.. and hours later I checked your reply, I wasnt sure if you was going to get back to me right away. But if I did check the, message...before I found the issue.. you were on point.. that's awesome. Thanks for you input, and your right calls. I find that amazing. Thank again. Hopefully this helps others as well.
Glad you got it fixed! I've been doing this for a while now. haha.
Yo my man quick question, even if my timing was off just a tick or two could that cause damage to my engine?
It was only run on idle maybe for 45minutes before we re done the belt with the correct timing tools
Basically I just want to know if my timing is off slightly I could damage my engine, bent exhaust valves, damage to piston rings etc.
As I smell gas in my oil but I also think that's due to idling all week and not being driven
If you are talking about the zetec in the video then your engine should be fine. These are non interference engines.
@@thatracinglife okay bro appreciate the help but I have the UK model hope it's the same
Does anyone know where to get a replacement timing belt tensioner bolt?
Assuming you tried the dealer already?
@@thatracinglife There isn't one around here but I'm assuming that would be the only place to get one right?
That would be the easiest, unless Rock Auto happens to have one. There is a company that sells OEM hardware but I cant think of the name of it at the moment. If I remember I'll come back and reply with it.
@@thatracinglife ok thank you. I'm gonna find the closest ford dealership though and go from there.
Send me your address. I'll send you one. I have bunches of good shape oem used ones
How many miles were on that car? You mentioned the belt should have been changed "long ago". My zx3 has 135k on it and I doubt the timing belt was ever changed, so...I'll be checking the condition of my belt tonight!
I don't remember. You can look at the factory interval specs online. We could tell it needed it long ago based on how bad the belt looked. It was severely cracked.
Factory interval is 100K. This car had 165k on the original belt!
@@Massive20 Holy Cow! Talk about borrowed time! Mine has 136k on it, and I'm seeing cracks. *gulp* I'll be replacing it tomorrow, mostly thanks to your excellent video! BTW, the "star" studs on the aluminum engine mount...the ones that the motor mount bolt on...do you know what socket I'd use to remove those? I notice you guys only removed one of the studs; other videos insist you need to remove both. Either way, I'd like to get a socket purchased before starting the job; just don't know what to buy.
@@Massive20 Thanks for the info!
@@wilddoktor Easiest just to take the nuts off of the studs and leave them in the front cover. Sometimes the stud just spins off with the nut, which was the case here. No need to buy the inverted torx socket just for that
You say DONT use the lower idler pulley.
I ordered a belt kit that came with the extra pulley and because my 2002 Zetec did not have one I left it out.
I later found out what they are for.
My daughter was using my car and she had a ' jittery ' way of cranking an engine when starting. She was jittery with the key and sometimes she would get a false start causing it to try and rotate backwards a few turns. Normally it would maybe just blow off vacuum lines but one time it caused the cam belt to jump over THREE TEETH on the crankshaft.
When I fixed it I then put that extra pully in place as it helps keep the belt from jumping over teeth in the event of it turning backward.
I don't know what you did to bend valves trying to use one.
it was done to save money there is nothing wrong with the extra-pulley-design...
I think I know what happened that
May have caused broken bolt. When I got a kit with two idler pulleys the instructions said if you use the bottom idler to torque the top idler bolt a whole lot more.
It's not a very large bolt so the extra torque would be way too much and stretch it.
I put mine to the normal amount.
@@michaelszczys8316seems like it is supposed to be torqued a bit more. The torque specs I found are the following: Upper and lower idler pulley, old two-pulley-design: 38Nm/28 lb-ft. Upper idler pulley, new design without lower pulley: 23 Nm/15 lb-ft.
How did you loosen cam wheels
Hold the cam on the holding part and use a torx. Or an impact works too.
@@thatracinglife do you mean with my off hand hold an adjustable wrench to stop the cams from moving so I can undo with my main hand with a ratchet t55 torx bit?
I'm scared to break the camshaft its self
There is a Hex on the cam for holding it. Make sure the tools are removed from the back of the cam slots. DO NOT APPLY TORQUE WITH THE TOOLS IN. If you use the hex that is on the cam to hold it they wont break, thats what its there for. An impact wrench is your friend on this one, the torque spikes will knock the bolt loose quickly without moving the cam much. Good luck!
@@thatracinglife can I just leave them tight, I can get belt on and off easy. But the problem I face then is tdc with the belt on because my cam gears will turn the camshaft
You might be able to get away with it. But to do it easily and properly you need to release them and use the proper timing tools.
why didn't you drain the radiator thru the drain on the left bottom of the radiator. then you wouldn't have a bath in coolant.
You guys might be the best to ask? I changed my timing belt & tensioner, main & rod bearings, water pump, thermostat, & upper & lower thermostat housings=(stupid design, should be one complete package-ugh!) Anywho, I had to use a breaker bar & crank the motor to loosen the crank bolt(of coarse I disconnected the coil wires!) but, HOW CAN I TIGHTEN DOWN THE CRANK BOLT? WITHOUT DAMAGING THE TIMING TOOL??? THE MOTOR SPINS WHEN I TRY TO TORQUE IT, I GOT IT AS TIGHT AS I COULD & HAVE DRIVEN IT FOR A HOT MINUTE-1 & 1/2 YEAR & IN THE BACK OF MY MIND, IT BOTHERS ME!!! PLUS, I DID NOT USE A DEGREE WHEEL UPON TIMING! it runs as good as b4 I did it but, It makes me wonder & I plan on doing a full rebuild again this summer! My Father passed as I was rebuilding the motor/replacing the main & rod bearings, timing & water pump so, I rushed it together in the dark to make it to the funeral the next morning(A WHOLE OTHER STORY!!!) In the back of my mind, I know that with a degree wheel, & a top end kit, new piston rings, head gasket, head bolts, head rebuild kit & possibly upgrading the cams & followers, I should be able to get more out of this motor! ALSO, MY BIGGEST PROBLEM IS MY COOLING FANS! EVERYTHING IS NEW! NEW FANS, CYLINDER HEAD TEMP SENSOR, COOLING FAN SOLONOID, EVEN THE FAN RELAYS YET, THE FANS WILL NOT WORK!!! SO, I SPLICED INTO THE CHT SENSOR WIRES, RAN A TOGLE SWITCH INTO THE CAR & WHEN I FLIP THE TOGGLE, IT BREAKS THE CIRCUT TO THE(CHT-CYLINDER HEAD TEMP SENSOR) & THE FANS COME ON, I AM GUESSING ON HI-SPEED. WHEREAS OTHER VIDS RUN A JUMPER WIRE IN THE FUSE BOX & THE FANS RUN CONSTANTLY OR THEY DISCONNECT THE CHT SENSOR CAUSING THE FANS TO RUN CONSTANTLY & THAT FRIED MY ALTERNATOR SO THE TOGGLE SWITCH ALLOWS ME TO CONTROLL THEM BUT, IT'S NOT RIGHT! I'd like them to work properly & not have to constantly watch my temp & guess when they need to be on or off! Also, since its on HI, It's hard on the car & causes the headlights to flicker, I'D LIKE TO BE ABLE TO ACCESS LOW SPEED OR SIMPLY HAVE THEM WORK PROPERLY. any advice???
You would have to hold the flywheel/flex plate with a holding tool (sometimes a pry bar can substitute) to tighten it properly. 99% of people just smack it on with an impact though. Sorry to hear about your father! As far as the fans go that would take some real electrical diagnosis. Something I can't help you with over the comments section. Unless there is some sort of common issue with those, might want to research online to check that. Massivespeedsystem.com has all the parts you need to make some more power when you're ready! Check them out!
You should have mentioned that all non usa zetec engines are interference engines like the svt.
It needs a 5-speed manual in it!
It is an interference engine mate
Nope. Not the American ones anyways.
this !!!IS!!! interference engine, you just got lucky.
Ford says it is. But it wont hit valves of the belt breaks. Karl has seen it happen many times! Relax...
@@thatracinglife sorry, but i cant relax as you're spreading wrong information with this video to thousands of people. Moreover, you're saying this engine isnt interfering, but the ST170 is - well i have news for you: it is the same! engine! with ported head and vvt on the intake and different conrods and pistons. That's it. You are so far from the truth you can't imagine. Do your homework and dont teach wrong lessons and dont spread wrong information. All zetecs are interference engines.
Guess karl has just been lucky on the 20+ that he has seen that haven't bent valves then. 👍
SVT will because of the VCT as stated
@@opexo The SVT is a zetec based motor, definitely. It also has a different piston pin height, different piston crown shape and volume, larger diameter valves, higher lift cams and variable cam timing. All of which make it an interference motor. A regular NON SVT zetec is 100% NON interference.