I found these video after my timing belt broke while driving. I used these videos to repair my 2000 Ford Focus ZX3 with 271,000 miles on it. I was concerned that with the break I bent the values as I was going over 50 mph when it happened. I was also concerned that with the belt break I was going to have a timing set issue. The instructions and the tools (I bought on amazon for about $20.00) set the timing perfectly. I am up and running now. Thank you again.
ford specified that for the US zetec engines (only) a snapped belt does not bend valves. this type of engine is called non-interference. I don't know why they didnt do this for the ROTW though maybe scheduled servicing is taken more notice of in the ROTW...
Here we are, 13 years later and a different vheicle but same motor. I'm replacing this belt on a 2002 Ford Escape with this Zetech 2.0L engine and manual transaxle. Glad to have this video still around in late 2024!
Very thorough set of videos. Thank you for laying it out as you did, followed step by step and had job done in 3 hours, backyard mechanic. The points on the crank are hard to see, wish I would have painted them as you did, but allowed me to be close enough on the crank that it was barely 1/2" of movement til the stop point. again, thank you for the videos, you have, unfortunately, helped keep another Ford on the road!
I have a 2004 Ford Focus SE . I need to do this soon. I've had acceleration issues. So far i have changed the thermostat housing/thermostat , plugs and valve cover gasket and cleaned MAF sensor. My modest repairs thanx to UA-cam vids has helped tremendously. My car runs better and i saved some money. Timing belt may be out of my range of ability tho lol
As long as the piston is at the top, the placement of the cams with the tool will set the compression stroke. Always turn clockwise to set the crank against the alignment pin and it keep tension on the torque side of the timing belt.
hey great video, just changed the cam belt and some faulty idlers etc on my 1998 mondeo 2.0l zetec, skipped a few steps from this video, instead of resetting the cams etc i secured them together with a few cable ties at different positions so they cant move and put the car in 5th gear and made sure the crank gear did not move, as long as the new belt goes back on in the same position there is no need to be that complicated resetting them etc,
Very helpful. I have a 2000 Focus I'll be changing the timing belt shortly. I had no idea there's so many parts I'll have to remove to do the job. The last time I did it was an '89 Festiva but that was simpler. Wish me good luck. Ray
Great Video and Detail..I only had Hand Tools so it took quite a bit longer, but you Guys Rock and Thanks to you now I'm Rolling..Thats a Great Big Ole Much Appreciated One from a Do it Yourself Man like me with a Family and Little Income..Keep on Keeping On Dudes..
Estoy estudiando mecánica y gracias a sus videos he resuelto algunos problemitas que me he encontrado y me han servido para avanzar en mi trabajo y gracias por su excelente trabajo y sigan poniendo mas videos y dios los bendiga
+Edward Thayer I believe 1 cylinder was all the way up to the top, I however did not use the Ford tool kit that he had, I made my own (even tho it worked for me I still don't recommend home made tools ) but yeah hope that helps
Very informative video and very well made. I'll be changing the timing belt on the exact same engine shown in the video. The car runs PERFECTLY, and I'm just changing the belt due to milage. The timing should be perfect and I'm afraid to try to make any adjustments or changes. If I carefully mark and note the old belt (mark and count teeth) and exactly replace it with the new belt, then why would the timing need to be checked or changed. Thanks for your help.
Same project on my '02 1.8Zetec Focus. Great job, thanks. I guess I'll change front crankshaft seal too.. after 300k kilometres, oil leak is a sad problem (at least on my engine..)
@CameronSangan I have found that by removing the sped sensor from the transmission case, you can refill from there to correct level. Hopefully that takes care of your concern!
I wanted to share what happened in my case. The harmonic balancer actually "spun" on itself so the marking on the outside did not align up with the markings on the engine block. Or it really did align up, however, the engine was not in top dead center. I replaced the balancer, put a coathanger wire in cylinder #1 and turned the crank to TDC. Then I installed the new balancer, made new marks (replacement balancer does not come with marks at all) and continued to follow this video.
@hotshot100 Mustang6172 is correct. both intake and exhaust valves are closed with piston up at top. You can also remove cylinder 1 spark plug and insert 5/16 hose. Plug other end of hose with finger when cranking. When you feel the air push the hose off, thats the compression. As ths piston reaches top, thats TDC on cyl 1.
Have you check the thermostat? Also check to see that the cooling fan turns on. Both can cause overheating. Running rough is another concern and the only way they would be related is by a head gasket failure.
If the belt is not broken (therefore engine is in tune) just mark the location of the belt on the cam gears and the crank shaft gear then change the pulleys and the tensioner and transfer the markings of the old belt to the new belt and slide it in. Easy.
on my 03 focus dohc zetec, I am getting a lot of valve chatter under any load!!! so, I am wondering if I have shred one or more teeth off the timming belt? my water pump is leaking & a lot of chatter from my valves so, I am going to replace the timing belt & water pump! (1st time doing a timing belt) im just wondering how well the way you mentioned would work for me? I am convinced that my belt is stretched, due to excessive valve chatter under any load!!!! or anytime! I don't remember my engine ever sounding this way! the valves didn't chatter like this b4!!!
thank you, don't even need a manual. my 2000 focus zetec has over 240k on it and the belt looks like the original.. all cracked and missing teeth, finally my timing went bad
@whitp103 With your model, you do have to remove the cat converter. The access plug will be a stud head, not just a bolt. It is in the rear of the engine right next to the cam position sensor. Once you get the converter off, you should easily see it!
The belt tension is accessed from underneath. The center bolt of the tensioner pulley is where you place a long 13MM box wrench and turn clockwise to loosen tension.
Couple questions sir: Is it clockwise if you ARE the motor or if you are looking AT the balancer? What size socket for the balancer? Did you have to lift the car to reach the pin hole location? I suppose removing the pass. tire makes it easier? I thank you for one of the BEST informative vids on the internet. THANK YOU!! You are a top notch mechanic!
@j1234le Placing the engine on compression stroke for cylinder 1 means both intake and exhaust valves are closed, and piston move up to top dead center. That is when the ignition would fire. At this point, the alignment tools should be close to fitting into the cam and block for alignment.
@StevenGaming cylinder 1 is the fist cylinder closest to the timing chain. with the special tool installed, the crank will stop at the tool when the piston is at top dead center
ok, couple of questions... 1) Harmonic balancer- I think I noticed a 'key' in the video? are there A LOT of different positions that can be set in? or does it spin freely on the shaft? and if so, how exact does it's alignment need to be? 2) Cams--with the bar tool for aligning the cams, is it possible to align the cams 180 degrees off? (by turn them an extra half turn.. since it is a straight bar)
When you removed the old timing belt, why did you advance the crank forward so that it would sit on the alighnment tool? Couldn't you have just saved time by just installing the new one, were the old one was. you had everything marked up correctly
Hi mate, Is it possible to list all the tools that were used, in addition to the alignment tools? Also what size driver was used on the star kind looking screws on the timing belt wheels? Thanks
At 7:55 on the video you state with the vale cover removed rotate the engine to compression stroke on cylinder 1. Can you explain? what is the purpose of doing this? Thanks so much for the video
You forgot to put the camshaft alignment tool (5mm flat steel) in the camshaft slots before you took the belt off. You should install the flat steel to keep the intake and exhaust cam in the correct timing. Once the tool is inserted and the engine is at TDC (if just replacing the belt and pulleys) Next remove the crank shaft pulley and lower timing belt cover. Make a mark on the crank gear and oil pump housing. (punch) This makes it easier next time if the belt does break and you need to set the crank shaft at TDC. Now you can remove the timing belt and pulleys.
150,000 miles here on an aftermarket belt! the original ford belt was in there till 150,000 ,then we replaced it with the aftermarket one and ran Another 150,000 on it.niether belt broke..car is at 300,000 miles and im abt to do another belt replace at this point...i also have a ford probe v6 with abt 100,000 on its second belt, its been in the car for abt 20yrs
thanks for the video, it's very helpful. But i am having trouble removing the crank pulley. any special way to do this?I am using hand tools btw. thanks again!
hello man can you download the second part soon, my bhrother in law is give me the pain because he has problem aline the cans so the pistons doesnt make noises, sorry i know english but i dont know these technicals terms, thx for the video
Thanks! I just did this on my 2003 ford escape 2.0L i could not see or reach the hole for the timing pin so i had to remove the cat. The escape has a coolant line that mounts to that stud. It took my a minute to figure that out...
How exactly did you get the plug out for the crank timing peg?? The focus I'm working on is a pain to get to it did you have to take more stuff off? And what size wrench did you use?? Thanks!
@CameronSangan Evening Cameron, To be honest, I'm don't know if the procedure will be the same as your engine. We didn't have the Fiesta here in the US until this year. All the Zetec engine here are 2.0 liters and I am not completely failure with your 1.6 liter. I would say that they should be very similar. Look for the bolt for the timing peg tool. If the bolt is there, the procedure should be exactly the same!
Would a poor or clogged radiator cause this? the thermostat is new. Just had the Airflow meter replaced. How about the MAP/MAF sensor? I heard of problems with this on the 95-97 Zetecs.
@mcook4098 If your doing this with just hand tools, it can be tough to remove. You could use a breaker bar on the crank bolt with the bar laying against the ground. Bump with starter with the key and it should come loose.
oh, and 4) how likely are any of these bolts to be stuck? and if I encounter that problem, whats the best way to get them loose? then 5) this job is suppose to take about 3 hours. your video is 2 parts, like 15 minutes each... what did you leave out? I mean, I noticed you didn't show you loosening the drive belt, which is no big deal, I'm just curious if there's other stuff like that, so I know what I'm about to encounter :)
Best video ever! Dumb Questions: 7:53 How do you know when Cyl 1 is in compression stoke (visual on the cams - or the crank shaft timing mark on the balancer?) and is the tech rotating the crank shaft with a ratchet from below to do this? The visual is non-telling. How can you tell if the marks are not visable? BTW this is the best Focus video on YT. 10:54 Always Clockwise rotation?
and 3) timing pin-- it will always hit on compression only, correct? (1 cam is compression, one cam is exhaust?) and each valve only opens when the piston is at top dead center, so shouldn't we be able to put the pin in at any point, and just turn the engine till it hits the pin? (yeah yeah yeah, I already said I'm not a mechanic, so I'm asking questions, and assuming a lot :) I don't know how much of what i said is correct, please correct me on whatever I got wrong)
Good afternoon have a focus 2001 ford zetec engine 2.0 partio belt I wanted to know if bent valves and few teeth is the belt I appreciate your prompt response thanks ??
Hey Master Tech. I need help! I am working on a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2 with a 2.0 Zetec and I cannot find the hole to place the pin at TDC. I am struggling to get the catalytic converter off and suspect it's behind that. My Chiltons manual says it's on the "front of the engine block" you say in the above video it's in the back of the block. I can't find it anywhere. Please help!
Okay i really need your help. I bought the crank timing alignment pin for my 1999 contour but I cant find the timing alignment bolt. Is there one on my car? If so is it in the same place? Does it look the same as the one on this focus?
I found this video very helpful, as I came to find out where the crankshaft locking pin goes in and how to do it. However, you skip quickly past the 'rotate engine to compression stroke'; it might be worth explaining how you do this (seems like you must be using a wheel with the car in-gear?) and how one could tell you're in the correct position. I second the comment others have made about the cam-locking bar; you clearly go to the trouble of fetching one from the tool set, but skip past the bit where you insert it. Video implies you remove the belt without locking the cam timing, which could be dangerous in the hands of an amateur like myself.
sickaroll, the bar is almost impossible to insert prior to removing the belt... if there is even the slightest bit of belt stretch, it's not going to happen. You don't need to rotate the engine at all prior to belt removal. It is NON interference, therefore the piston and valves will never touch, so you're safe to do all of your rotating after you remove the belt. You rotate the engine by turning the crank.... USE THE CRANK BOLT, not this retarded method of putting a crescent wrench over the shaft and pushing the key. That's very stupid
JSOO59 I did my alternator on my 03 zetec fucus & it was a nightmare! I ended up disconnecting the motor mount & connecting a chain 2 my motor & using another car to apply tension 2 pull motor forward a inch or 2!!!(helped GREATLY) After getting alternator some what in place, it still wouldn't go onto the bracket so I could put the bolts threw it so, I ground the tabs on the alternator just a smidge! (a little 2 much so now it's a bit loose) but it works fine now! & it slid rite in perfectly & easy After grinding tabs! & after all was done,I should have bought a hi-amp alternator in the 1st place (so I can install a powerful amp, it can draw 230-260 amps by itself) few months later my accessory tensioner pulley went out & while replacing it, I started 2 wonder, if it went out,how long till my timing belt tensioner goes out? iv done alot of work on my fucus & it has hi mileage & idk when or if the timing belt has ever been replaced? tho signs(sealant/silicone on cam sprocket cover point 2 yes. i find that i have 2 clean my IAC VALVE every few thousand miles(it will idle poorly & want 2 stall) so I have 2 clean iac valve every few thousand miles, along with cleaning throttle body & resetting the computer everytime.youtube vids help!
it requires loosening and removing the passenger motor mount. dont even think of trying to do it without this step cuz it wont come out, not enough clearance.motor needs to be shifted a few inches to allow alt to be pulled out from the top...Also the silver lines against the firewall tha seem to be in the way, ARE in th way! and need to be disconnected and bent back to make room or u wont be able to lift the alt out,even with the motor shifted.......ive done it so many times, i can do it in an hr ,but 1st time, took 6 hrs of struggle
dude, i ran into same issue with the alt tabs being to snug and the answer is that u DONT have to grind anything! the yabs are compression tabs, meaning they can be Squeezed with vicegrips and the will compress in a bit and allow u clearance to slide the alt onto its mount...i learned the hard way
i want to remove the fuel injectors on a 1.4l ford focus engine from 2009...they are all the same. how to i release the pressure? or simply unscrew the fuel rail and the injectors will pop out thus releasing the preasure ?
@5150martin You can replace your belt any way you see fit and I wish you all the luck! I take my work serious, take a lot of pride in my work and if I am going to repair it, I am going to do it right the first time. For the people who have this service done on their vehicle, this is the service they should expect!
SWEEET VIDEO! I've watched this two part three times now. I can do it in my sleep! lol. What kind of dog would be at a dealership? He sounds like he wants to hunt.
not the crank, but the lock pin will surely bend and be a bitch to get out....people buy the lock pins and complain they got bent but the pins was Never meant to Hold the crank for tightening or loosening...its to set TDC Only!
None of the Zetecs (U.S. version) are interference with exception of the SVT Focus. All the books list it as interference but it is not. Watch my Zetec timing video and I prove it isn't interference. If a mechanic tells you it is interference, bet him the cost of the parts and labor that the engine doesn't have bent valves and get free work done. The pistons reliefs are deeper than the valves open.
I found these video after my timing belt broke while driving. I used these videos to repair my 2000 Ford Focus ZX3 with 271,000 miles on it. I was concerned that with the break I bent the values as I was going over 50 mph when it happened. I was also concerned that with the belt break I was going to have a timing set issue. The instructions and the tools (I bought on amazon for about $20.00) set the timing perfectly. I am up and running now. Thank you again.
ford specified that for the US zetec engines (only) a snapped belt does not bend valves. this type of engine is called non-interference. I don't know why they didnt do this for the ROTW though maybe scheduled servicing is taken more notice of in the ROTW...
Keven Powers
Was it showing symptoms at first
Here we are, 13 years later and a different vheicle but same motor. I'm replacing this belt on a 2002 Ford Escape with this Zetech 2.0L engine and manual transaxle. Glad to have this video still around in late 2024!
Very thorough set of videos. Thank you for laying it out as you did, followed step by step and had job done in 3 hours, backyard mechanic.
The points on the crank are hard to see, wish I would have painted them as you did, but allowed me to be close enough on the crank that it was barely 1/2" of movement til the stop point.
again, thank you for the videos, you have, unfortunately, helped keep another Ford on the road!
I have a 2004 Ford Focus SE . I need to do this soon. I've had acceleration issues. So far i have changed the thermostat housing/thermostat , plugs and valve cover gasket and cleaned MAF sensor. My modest repairs thanx to UA-cam vids has helped tremendously. My car runs better and i saved some money. Timing belt may be out of my range of ability tho lol
Was the timing belt the problem like did yours go out?
As long as the piston is at the top, the placement of the cams with the tool will set the compression stroke. Always turn clockwise to set the crank against the alignment pin and it keep tension on the torque side of the timing belt.
hey great video, just changed the cam belt and some faulty idlers etc on my 1998 mondeo 2.0l zetec, skipped a few steps from this video, instead of resetting the cams etc i secured them together with a few cable ties at different positions so they cant move and put the car in 5th gear and made sure the crank gear did not move, as long as the new belt goes back on in the same position there is no need to be that complicated resetting them etc,
Very helpful. I have a 2000 Focus I'll be changing the timing belt shortly. I had no idea there's so many parts I'll have to remove to do the job. The last time I did it was an '89 Festiva but that was simpler. Wish me good luck.
Ray
Great step by step instructions. Note that the front engine support bracket has 4 bolts and the right lower one is a star bit.
That's right, that bolt is a torx50.
Great video, followed the instructions and had no problems. Saved me tons of dough!!!
Great Video and Detail..I only had Hand Tools so it took quite a bit longer, but you Guys Rock and Thanks to you now I'm Rolling..Thats a Great Big Ole Much Appreciated One from a Do it Yourself Man like me with a Family and Little Income..Keep on Keeping On Dudes..
Estoy estudiando mecánica y gracias a sus videos he resuelto algunos problemitas que me he encontrado y me han servido para avanzar en mi trabajo y gracias por su excelente trabajo y sigan poniendo mas videos y dios los bendiga
I has no problems at all, thanks to this video! Thank you!
Followed this step by step and worked, thank you so much for posting this
how do I know that I rotated the engine to compression stroke on cylinder one? at 7:54? your time and help will be greatly appreciated.
+Edward Thayer because the tool only fits in one way, the cam slots are offset :)
+Edward Thayer I believe 1 cylinder was all the way up to the top, I however did not use the Ford tool kit that he had, I made my own (even tho it worked for me I still don't recommend home made tools ) but yeah hope that helps
Very informative video and very well made. I'll be changing the timing belt on the exact same engine shown in the video. The car runs PERFECTLY, and I'm just changing the belt due to milage. The timing should be perfect and I'm afraid to try to make any adjustments or changes. If I carefully mark and note the old belt (mark and count teeth) and exactly replace it with the new belt, then why would the timing need to be checked or changed. Thanks for your help.
at last a video that shows you how and wear to fit cam/ crankshaft locking tools many thanks peggyjoe
Same project on my '02 1.8Zetec Focus. Great job, thanks. I guess I'll change front crankshaft seal too.. after 300k kilometres, oil leak is a sad problem (at least on my engine..)
@CameronSangan
I have found that by removing the sped sensor from the transmission case, you can refill from there to correct level. Hopefully that takes care of your concern!
I wish I wouldve watched this before taking on the project myself... you make it looks so seamless and easy, thanks for the vid.. it is very helpfull
I wanted to share what happened in my case. The harmonic balancer actually "spun" on itself so the marking on the outside did not align up with the markings on the engine block. Or it really did align up, however, the engine was not in top dead center. I replaced the balancer, put a coathanger wire in cylinder #1 and turned the crank to TDC. Then I installed the new balancer, made new marks (replacement balancer does not come with marks at all) and continued to follow this video.
@hotshot100 Mustang6172 is correct. both intake and exhaust valves are closed with piston up at top. You can also remove cylinder 1 spark plug and insert 5/16 hose. Plug other end of hose with finger when cranking. When you feel the air push the hose off, thats the compression. As ths piston reaches top, thats TDC on cyl 1.
Have you check the thermostat? Also check to see that the cooling fan turns on. Both can cause overheating. Running rough is another concern and the only way they would be related is by a head gasket failure.
If the belt is not broken (therefore engine is in tune) just mark the location of the belt on the cam gears and the crank shaft gear then change the pulleys and the tensioner and transfer the markings of the old belt to the new belt and slide it in. Easy.
on my 03 focus dohc zetec, I am getting a lot of valve chatter under any load!!! so, I am wondering if I have shred one or more teeth off the timming belt? my water pump is leaking & a lot of chatter from my valves so, I am going to replace the timing belt & water pump! (1st time doing a timing belt) im just wondering how well the way you mentioned would work for me? I am convinced that my belt is stretched, due to excessive valve chatter under any load!!!! or anytime! I don't remember my engine ever sounding this way! the valves didn't chatter like this b4!!!
nice job i never had the engine pin so sometimes I have to reset the engine timing mark so much easier thanks.
thank you, don't even need a manual. my 2000 focus zetec has over 240k on it and the belt looks like the original.. all cracked and missing teeth, finally my timing went bad
@whitp103
With your model, you do have to remove the cat converter. The access plug will be a stud head, not just a bolt. It is in the rear of the engine right next to the cam position sensor. Once you get the converter off, you should easily see it!
The belt tension is accessed from underneath. The center bolt of the tensioner pulley is where you place a long 13MM box wrench and turn clockwise to loosen tension.
Couple questions sir: Is it clockwise if you ARE the motor or if you are looking AT the balancer? What size socket for the balancer? Did you have to lift the car to reach the pin hole location? I suppose removing the pass. tire makes it easier? I thank you for one of the BEST informative vids on the internet. THANK YOU!! You are a top notch mechanic!
@Goodwrench496
Your are correct! The plate on the strut tower was to reset camber in the front wheels.
@j1234le Placing the engine on compression stroke for cylinder 1 means both intake and exhaust valves are closed, and piston move up to top dead center. That is when the ignition would fire. At this point, the alignment tools should be close to fitting into the cam and block for alignment.
@StevenGaming
cylinder 1 is the fist cylinder closest to the timing chain. with the special tool installed, the crank will stop at the tool when the piston is at top dead center
ok, couple of questions...
1) Harmonic balancer- I think I noticed a 'key' in the video? are there A LOT of different positions that can be set in? or does it spin freely on the shaft? and if so, how exact does it's alignment need to be?
2) Cams--with the bar tool for aligning the cams, is it possible to align the cams 180 degrees off? (by turn them an extra half turn.. since it is a straight bar)
When you removed the old timing belt, why did you advance the crank forward so that it would sit on the alighnment tool? Couldn't you have just saved time by just installing the new one, were the old one was. you had everything marked up correctly
Excelente demostración para sustituir la banda de tiempo del motor 2-L zetec, muy clara, muy efectiva., en muy poco tiempo felicitaciones.
Thank You for making this video. It was extremely helpfuf.
Hi mate,
Is it possible to list all the tools that were used, in addition to the alignment tools?
Also what size driver was used on the star kind looking screws on the timing belt wheels?
Thanks
At 7:55 on the video you state with the vale cover removed rotate the engine to compression stroke on cylinder 1. Can you explain? what is the purpose of doing this? Thanks so much for the video
Very informative, almost felt like I was doing the job. Tks
Great information...very specific and informative. Thanks for posting.
Hi great video.....Do you know if a Ford Focus ZX3 2001 tends to bend valve, when the timing belt breaks....Thank you
Great Video! How about on the reinstall? How can you torque to proper spec without the engine turning over.
You forgot to put the camshaft alignment tool (5mm flat steel) in the camshaft slots before you took the belt off. You should install the flat steel to keep the intake and exhaust cam in the correct timing. Once the tool is inserted and the engine is at TDC (if just replacing the belt and pulleys) Next remove the crank shaft pulley and lower timing belt cover. Make a mark on the crank gear and oil pump housing. (punch) This makes it easier next time if the belt does break and you need to set the crank shaft at TDC. Now you can remove the timing belt and pulleys.
Every 90 thousand miles is considered the norm. Although some people wait longer. I'm at 120,000 right now so I'm pushing my luck big time!
150,000 miles here on an aftermarket belt! the original ford belt was in there till 150,000 ,then we replaced it with the aftermarket one and ran Another 150,000 on it.niether belt broke..car is at 300,000 miles and im abt to do another belt replace at this point...i also have a ford probe v6 with abt 100,000 on its second belt, its been in the car for abt 20yrs
Love the Bassett Hound hollering in the backround.
thanks for the video, it's very helpful. But i am having trouble removing the crank pulley. any special way to do this?I am using hand tools btw. thanks again!
gracias por esta informacion, me ha sido de gran utilidad, ya que tenia muchas dudas pero ahora tengo confianza para la reparacion de estos autos
hello man can you download the second part soon, my bhrother in law is give me the pain because he has problem aline the cans so the pistons doesnt make noises, sorry i know english but i dont know these technicals terms, thx for the video
Thanks! I just did this on my 2003 ford escape 2.0L i could not see or reach the hole for the timing pin so i had to remove the cat. The escape has a coolant line that mounts to that stud. It took my a minute to figure that out...
why do you have to rotate the crank shaft? Wouldnt that off set the timing being the timing belt is off and not rotating the cams?
How exactly did you get the plug out for the crank timing peg?? The focus I'm working on is a pain to get to it did you have to take more stuff off? And what size wrench did you use?? Thanks!
@Trex1268 Thanks for the comment!
The hand ratchet is a Cornwell, 1/4" impact is a Makita. The 3/8 green impact is is also a Makita.
@CameronSangan
Evening Cameron, To be honest, I'm don't know if the procedure will be the same as your engine. We didn't have the Fiesta here in the US until this year. All the Zetec engine here are 2.0 liters and I am not completely failure with your 1.6 liter. I would say that they should be very similar. Look for the bolt for the timing peg tool. If the bolt is there, the procedure should be exactly the same!
Would a poor or clogged radiator cause this? the thermostat is new. Just had the Airflow meter replaced. How about the MAP/MAF sensor? I heard of problems with this on the 95-97 Zetecs.
very specific and informative. Thanks
@kspencer79
Great to hear it helped! My pleasure to help!!!
Mr. Tec thank youuuuuu so much for the time to take to make this video and help my to do my timming belt by my self. Thank you again.
@mcook4098
If your doing this with just hand tools, it can be tough to remove. You could use a breaker bar on the crank bolt with the bar laying against the ground. Bump with starter with the key and it should come loose.
oh, and 4) how likely are any of these bolts to be stuck? and if I encounter that problem, whats the best way to get them loose?
then 5) this job is suppose to take about 3 hours. your video is 2 parts, like 15 minutes each... what did you leave out? I mean, I noticed you didn't show you loosening the drive belt, which is no big deal, I'm just curious if there's other stuff like that, so I know what I'm about to encounter :)
Best video ever! Dumb Questions: 7:53 How do you know when Cyl 1 is in compression stoke (visual on the cams - or the crank shaft timing mark on the balancer?) and is the tech rotating the crank shaft with a ratchet from below to do this? The visual is non-telling. How can you tell if the marks are not visable? BTW this is the best Focus video on YT. 10:54 Always Clockwise rotation?
and 3) timing pin-- it will always hit on compression only, correct? (1 cam is compression, one cam is exhaust?) and each valve only opens when the piston is at top dead center, so shouldn't we be able to put the pin in at any point, and just turn the engine till it hits the pin?
(yeah yeah yeah, I already said I'm not a mechanic, so I'm asking questions, and assuming a lot :) I don't know how much of what i said is correct, please correct me on whatever I got wrong)
Good afternoon have a focus 2001 ford zetec engine 2.0 partio belt I wanted to know if bent valves and few teeth is the belt I appreciate your prompt response thanks ??
@6speeddakota The engine is an interference engine, but rarely ever bends a valves.
Hey Master Tech. I need help! I am working on a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2 with a 2.0 Zetec and I cannot find the hole to place the pin at TDC. I am struggling to get the catalytic converter off and suspect it's behind that. My Chiltons manual says it's on the "front of the engine block" you say in the above video it's in the back of the block. I can't find it anywhere. Please help!
@paullasseigne
That is correct., this engine will not bend valves if the timing belt breaks!
Okay i really need your help. I bought the crank timing alignment pin for my 1999 contour but I cant find the timing alignment bolt. Is there one on my car? If so is it in the same place? Does it look the same as the one on this focus?
I found this video very helpful, as I came to find out where the crankshaft locking pin goes in and how to do it. However, you skip quickly past the 'rotate engine to compression stroke'; it might be worth explaining how you do this (seems like you must be using a wheel with the car in-gear?) and how one could tell you're in the correct position. I second the comment others have made about the cam-locking bar; you clearly go to the trouble of fetching one from the tool set, but skip past the bit where you insert it. Video implies you remove the belt without locking the cam timing, which could be dangerous in the hands of an amateur like myself.
sickaroll, the bar is almost impossible to insert prior to removing the belt... if there is even the slightest bit of belt stretch, it's not going to happen. You don't need to rotate the engine at all prior to belt removal. It is NON interference, therefore the piston and valves will never touch, so you're safe to do all of your rotating after you remove the belt. You rotate the engine by turning the crank.... USE THE CRANK BOLT, not this retarded method of putting a crescent wrench over the shaft and pushing the key. That's very stupid
@hotshot100 When the intake valve closes, the compression stroke is starting.
Nice video. You don't by chance have a video of changing the alternator on this 2003 Focus do you? I can't find anything on it. Thanks.
JSOO59 I did my alternator on my 03 zetec fucus & it was a nightmare! I ended up disconnecting the motor mount & connecting a chain 2 my motor & using another car to apply tension 2 pull motor forward a inch or 2!!!(helped GREATLY) After getting alternator some what in place, it still wouldn't go onto the bracket so I could put the bolts threw it so, I ground the tabs on the alternator just a smidge! (a little 2 much so now it's a bit loose) but it works fine now! & it slid rite in perfectly & easy After grinding tabs! & after all was done,I should have bought a hi-amp alternator in the 1st place (so I can install a powerful amp, it can draw 230-260 amps by itself) few months later my accessory tensioner pulley went out & while replacing it, I started 2 wonder, if it went out,how long till my timing belt tensioner goes out? iv done alot of work on my fucus & it has hi mileage & idk when or if the timing belt has ever been replaced? tho signs(sealant/silicone on cam sprocket cover point 2 yes. i find that i have 2 clean my IAC VALVE every few thousand miles(it will idle poorly & want 2 stall) so I have 2 clean iac valve every few thousand miles, along with cleaning throttle body & resetting the computer everytime.youtube vids help!
it requires loosening and removing the passenger motor mount. dont even think of trying to do it without this step cuz it wont come out, not enough clearance.motor needs to be shifted a few inches to allow alt to be pulled out from the top...Also the silver lines against the firewall tha seem to be in the way, ARE in th way! and need to be disconnected and bent back to make room or u wont be able to lift the alt out,even with the motor shifted.......ive done it so many times, i can do it in an hr ,but 1st time, took 6 hrs of struggle
dude, i ran into same issue with the alt tabs being to snug and the answer is that u DONT have to grind anything! the yabs are compression tabs, meaning they can be Squeezed with vicegrips and the will compress in a bit and allow u clearance to slide the alt onto its mount...i learned the hard way
Great vid! I think your pretty cool to share your expertise. Awsome, thanks!!!!!
@LoneWolfCRF The ZeTec in the SVT Focus is exactly the same for timing belt replacement!
i want to remove the fuel injectors on a 1.4l ford focus engine from 2009...they are all the same. how to i release the pressure? or simply unscrew the fuel rail and the injectors will pop out thus releasing the preasure ?
great video, does make appreciate my old ford straight 6 potter with a timing chain though :).
So. I'm kinda confused. Do I need to put the tool in first then rotate the crank pulley to where cams are set at tdc?
Why do you need the special tools? Can't it just be marked and use those markings as a guide? As with most t.belt removal and replacement projects?
@5150martin
You can replace your belt any way you see fit and I wish you all the luck! I take my work serious, take a lot of pride in my work and if I am going to repair it, I am going to do it right the first time. For the people who have this service done on their vehicle, this is the service they should expect!
What's the ratchet and universal your using? Top video as always! :)
Do you really need the pin or can you set it at TDC with a screw driver?
the cylinder #1 is the one closet to the timing belt right, and whats tdc?
Can you torque the balancer pulley bolt with the alignment tool holding the crank?
really nice video thanks
how long does it take to replace the timing belt for a first time
@PAULCCFOX
Your very welcome! I'm glad it helped!
It uses the same basic process. Be sure to loosen both cam gears from the cam.
07:53 Rotate engine to compression stroke on cylinder #1. How can you tell this? How do you know if you are on the compression stroke?
When you turn the crank until the pin makes contact in which direction do you turn the crank? Clockwise or counter clockwise? Unclear on the video.
Thanks for the great video..
really good and helpful thanks
SWEEET VIDEO! I've watched this two part three times now. I can do it in my sleep! lol. What kind of dog would be at a dealership? He sounds like he wants to hunt.
Does the balancer need to be held when tightening the bolt to the crank? I'm worried the engine will turn over or I'll bend the timing pin. Any help?
should u buy the timing belt at the dealer or any parts store
Slide a knife blade between the plastic of the tank and metal clip. Then lift while the blade is there. It lets the tank slide up.
how long does this job take
Do you tighten the crank bolt with a gun or lock the crank somehow and torque it properly?
good stuff thanks for the valuable information God Bless
09:37 Crank alignment bolt. I am not certain where this is..which side of the car?
Some are T45, and the plug on the VCT is T55.
Will the crankshaft be damaged if one uses the crackshaft lock pin to hold the crank?
not the crank, but the lock pin will surely bend and be a bitch to get out....people buy
the lock pins and complain they got bent but the pins was Never meant to Hold the crank for tightening or loosening...its to set TDC Only!
None of the Zetecs (U.S. version) are interference with exception of the SVT Focus. All the books list it as interference but it is not. Watch my Zetec timing video and I prove it isn't interference. If a mechanic tells you it is interference, bet him the cost of the parts and labor that the engine doesn't have bent valves and get free work done. The pistons reliefs are deeper than the valves open.
what are the names of the specific tools needed?
I appreciate. God bless you ,sir.
how im suppose to know then I am on compression stroke on cylinder 1 ?