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The truth behind luxury shoes: The Shoe Snob answers elusive questions in a brutally honest way!
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- Why are so many shops, all of a sudden, offering Made -to-Order shoes? Have you noticed that more and more new shoe brands are currently created overnight? How is it possible that some shops we've never heard of suddenly claim to sell artisan shoes and even use the word "bespoke"? Did you notice that the exact same pair of shoes can be found at very different prices depending on the brand? Is it true that the quality of leather is no more what it used to be a few decades ago? How long does it take to break in a pair of quality shoes? Are tassel loafers coming back in style in our casual era?
Justin Fitzpatrick (a.k.a. "The Shoe Snob") answers all these tough questions in a brutally honest way in order to help you find your way in a more and more competitive and complex market. If you are on the market for quality MTO shoes, this episode is a must-see!
00:00 Introduction
01:38 Why are so many brands offering MTO shoes nowadays?
08:54 How long does it take to receive a custom pair of shoes?
14:14 What is going on with the quality of leather?
19:45 What are the pros and the cons of narrow waists on shoes?
22:45 How long does it take to break in a pair of Goodyear welted shoe?
29:35 What is a fiddleback? A beveled waist? A shank?
31:18 Are tassel loafers coming back in style in our casual era?
32:53 Three tips to make your shoes last longer!
The Shoe Snob blog: theshoesnobblog.com
J.Fitzpatrick footwear: www.jfitzpatrickfootwear.com
Follow us on our Instagram accounts:
Hugo: / parisian_gentleman
Sonya: / sonyaglyn
Support the show on Patreon: / sartorialtalks
Justin's "be aware" suggestion was spot on for me. Ever since i statrted wearing some "more expensive" shoes I started being careful of not hitting the feet of the table or of chairs with my shoes. "BE AWARE" it works.
Dear James, I believe that being aware is key in life in general! All my very best, Hugo
It's easier to "be aware" when you have feet the size that Justin has. When you have UK size 12 shoes objects conspire to get in their way. And travelling on cramped aeroplanes, trains and even driving cars with small pedal boxes have damaged the toes of my shoes.
I know, first world problems...
If people really care about animals then they should support leather. Leather is biodegradable and sustainable, so it is good for the environment and all animals who live in it. Petroleum-based plastics are not.
I'm not too much into this debate to be honest because it's an endless one. However I just wanted to remind people that leather for shoes is a sub product of slaughter rooms and thus it's a great recycling model. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKSYes, you are right and I think you made that point clearly in the video.
But not good for the animals that are slaughtered for their skins. Also the methane gas produced by livestock is an important contributor to global warming. Also large-scale industrial livestock operations are very damaging to water quality and pose great difficulties for sanitary waste disposal. In other words, no option is perfect. To me, the key is to discourage excessive consumption and to buy your shoes and clothes for a lifetime, not a lunchtime.
@@scrambaba The first part of your message is pure propaganda. The last sentence is wise though. This is exactly what we advocate for on this channel. Buy less, buy better. Cheers, Hugo
@@scrambabayou do however forget that cattle that are grass fed of course produce methane but since it is from the grass it is a cycle of storage and release. The real problem then becomes mass livestock farming in warehouses.
Two of my Favourite people in the entire sartorial world today!!! Alway a joy to watch them.
That's very kind of you. All my best! Hugo
I remember meeting Justin back in 2013 in London when he launched his shoe brand. I found him interesting and passionate so I bought his denim/dark brown boots. They've held up pretty good over the past eleven years. I'm happy to always support artisans like him. Great interview.
Thank you Dave! Hugo
Thrilled to see how far Justin has reached! 👏👏👏
True! Cheers! Hugo
Good podcast. Buy good shoes. Use shoe trees. Take care of your shoes. Simple lessons. I wish I learned them when I was younger.
It's never too late my friend! All my best, Hugo
great episode Hugo, you always are carefree and spontaneous.... Justin and insight very educational. keep it coming
Many thanks Leonardo for your encouragements. Cheers, Hugo
Thanks for this wonderful conversation set! Great to hear you and Justin delving into these topics.
Many thanks Simon! I hope you enjoy the collector book (you caught one of the very last). All my best, Hugo
Great episode. Love to hear people that are passionate and knowledgeable about their craft.
Thank you very much Tim! Hugo
Great episode Hugo, I presume there's more on the way! Can't wait!
There are always more episode on the way my friend! All my best, Hugo
Greetings Hugo and Sonya!
Congratulations on yet another beautiful episode of Sartorial Talks.
The timing of this edition on neckties is interesting for me. I recently purchased a luxury hand made silk tie by Stefano Ricci to pair with an Italian luxury navy suit. JS and I are preparing for Passover next month and I purchased the tie to compliment her new Spring dress.
We love and appreciate you, dear friends. Cheers! 🥂
Btw...I was also blessed to email and speak with Justin Fitzpatrick by phone a few months back on my purchase of his Alki chelsea boots. I mentioned you and Sonya. 🥰
How nice to hear from you Ralph! Cheers to you and to JS! Hugo & Sonya
Thank you for this, Hugo and Justin! Such exceptionally helpful information makes me a better and more knowledgeable customer. Cheers!
You are more than welcome Michael! All my very best, Hugo
A very enjoyable and useful episode. Thanks Hugo and Sonya!
Thank you for the encouraging comment! Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
Hey Hugo and Justin, thank you for a good episode and the respect you both generate for our vibrant traditional shoe making establishment.
After having established several Cobbler outlets across Australia since 1984, I have retired and am reaslising my passion and setting up for hand made & quality shoe making. Watch this space! Ciao, 😊
Congratulations my friend! Hugo
Practical to the point advice. I am glad I watched this video.
Dear Wolfgang, I'm glad you watched and found it useful! All my best, Hugo
Very informative conversation!
I could really relate to the point about being aware of yourself and your possessions.
A good driver avoids pot holes to reduce damage overtime, and it's not different when walking!
Very true! All my best, Hugo
Thank you Justin! Your information is incredible! 🎩
With pleasure Reginald, Hugo
Hello, it is to think about leather treatment too. Many chemicals were banned in last years, not because toxicity, but "climatic impact" and this makes traditional treatment of leather not possible anymore.
Another interesting and educational conversation. Justin is the best 🔥🔥
Indeed Richard! Best wishes, Hugo
I loved all three videos with Justin. Great topics. Thanks for sharing
You're very welcome my friend! All my best, Hugo
On being aware and the related horro stories. Yes, I have one of my own. Brand new pair of boots, on the bus, kicked something under the seat in front of me, ended with a gash in the toe cap with jagged edges. Tried to fix it, botched the job, ended up having to use so much of the Saphir Juvacuir that it took away the natural look of the leather. Sadly, they've seen little use after that.
One of my favourite episodes for quite some time. Thanks and keep them coming!
Sad but interesting story Thomas! Be aware!!! Best wishes, Hugo
A SUGGESTION...to protect your Industry and brand...
1. All "shoemakers" should DECLARE if the shoes are made through their COMPANY OWNED manufacturer.
2. Branded Shoes SHOULD BE LABELLED AS SUCH with the NAME OF THE ACTUAL MANUFACTURES .. DECLARED...
3. ALL SHOES that are "WHITE LABEL" SHOULD BE STAMPED as a "white label product"
By having this information the PURCHASER CAN check with manufacture WHO ELSE SELLS THEIR PRODUCT, alloying the purchaser to compare the "White Label" retailers...
Anyways, just a thought, love your work,thanks for the content...😊
Thank you for your radical suggestions my friend. Hugo
I gain so much out of your prgrams,Hugo.Thank you.
You're very welcome sir! Hugo
What a delightful conversation.
Thank you for another great video! Do you have any suggestions for shops to visit in Florence? In general. Not specifically shoes.
Good morning. Sure : Liverano & Liverano of course, Stefano Bemer (wonderful place inside an historical chapel), Tie your Tie (probably the best tie maker on the planet) and maybe also Mario Bemer. Cheers, Hugo
Thank you, Hugo! 🙏
We need more of Justin here. I have several pairs of JF 😊
Justin is never far from us my friend. He's a loyal friend for almost 15 years. Cheers, Hugo
Thanks Hugo for keeping up the style!
You're welcome! Hugo
I learned to bring a backup pair of shoes while breaking in new shoes so I can switch on the fly if they start to hurt
That's a good and wise way to do it indeed. Cheers, Hugo
I listened to this video on the podcast and found it very interesting. I have always appreciated Justin’s honest takes. I’ve been wearing GYW and HW footwear since the early 2000s, but I didn’t realize just how little I knew until Justin started writing his blog. He’s a tremendous resource and a very interesting shoe designer. I do want to point out one error, though: while I have no doubt that bovine hide quality has dropped off (I’ve heard and read the same from many sources, including tanneries), it does not appear to correlate with fewer hides or vegetarian / vegan diets. Global beef production (and US and European production) has increased dramatically since the 1960s. Even in the 2010s and 2020s, beef production has grown slightly and has not dropped off in the US and EU. Veganism and vegetarianism account for about eight percent of people in the US and Europe. I don’t know the cause of lower quality hides, but it does not appear to be a drop-off in bovine hides.
I can wait for the break-in. The final results will be quite rewarding.
Wise words. Hugo
Excellent episode with a lot of ingreat information,,,thank you so much, dear Hugo,and love to & Justin you from Cairo .
Thanks Nader! All my best wishes as ever! Hugo
Great and very informative video but 17:18 that one hurt..
Love how straightforward this guy is. Learned a lot. Hugo, what do you think is the best alternative to a Gucci Loafer? I want to support a smaller business with better quality.
Here my friend (the Artista collection is of extreme quality): www.tlbmallorca.com/collections/mens-loafers-style
Cheers, Hugo
Meccariello is a tiny family business with outstanding shoes. Worth a look but more expensive than the TLB Mallorca shoes which Hugo recommended
@@ABC-rh7zc I personally know Antonio Meccariello (I even tasted their wine and food at their home with the family). Great people and excellent atelier of course, but with very specific designs (that I love). Not sure they do horsebit loafers though. Cheers, Hugo
@@ABC-rh7zcand more expensive than even the Gucci ones. ;)
But a nice suggestion nevertheless, there are lots of small Italian makers out there with outstanding craftsmanship.
Thanks Hugo!
Sure my friend! Hugo
Hey... stop giving away all our secrets! 😃
In our factory, we make soft felt pads that stick under the tongue. For customers whose foot moves back and forth. The pad helps with lacing up and holds the heel in place.
Wherever there is pressure, there is softening, if the wearer doesn't connect well with the shoe, they may never get the better fit.
We make shoes for our customers in our factory (in Melbourne Australia), we have half-dozen lasts and a good selection of leather, suede, and soles. We make a shoe in roughly 4 to 5 weeks.
Thanks for the information. Cheers, Hugo
Thank-you. Can you do a video on f
Pens, fountain pens.
The MTO program from those "IT guys"... May make sense with a pair of MTO shoes I bought from a large, good shoe company (which is probably the same one you didn't want to call out) and the quality on them was bad. I will probably never go MTO again after that experience unless it's a Japanese maker with decades of accolades for their MTO shoes.
Really great video. Appreciated the open discussion on the shoe industry.
Or Justin Fitzpatrick, or Septième Largeur, or Caulaincourt... Real shoemakers and designers. Cheers, Hugo
With the current fetish for making everything “digital” by using AI, I’m afraid we’ve only seen the tip of the iceberg in terms of poor MTO and MTM options founded by “IT guys”.
Hi Hugo. I’m planning on purchasing my 1st bottle of Guerlain this year. As somebody who is both a fan and a connoisseur of this brand, which of their fragrances would you recommend to start with?
That's a complicated question my friend, because all Guerlain is excellent in my opinion and it's ultimately a question of taste, of style and of use. The easiest one to start with may be one of the versions of "l'Homme Idéal". Cheers, Hugo
Love the idea of the loafers with thicker soles.
Yes it's a modern take on tassel loafers! All my best, Hugo
It’s not related to this current video.
There is a recent channel called, Gent Z. a recent video from that channel he suggests five role models of gentlemen. I dropped a comment that he should observe you. To me, you represent what a modern gentleman can be.
Good morning Roger, that's very kind of you. I maybe to old now for the younger generation... Cheers, Hugo
Hi Hugo, I was a long time vegan but now I call myself plant-based. Understanding that leather is mostly a by product of the meat industry allowed me to make peace with it and start wearing nice shoes again. Thanks for making this point here.
You are more than welcome my friend! Best wishes, Hugo
lab grown is out there and coming to maturity soon
@@snorttroll4379 excited about that possibility soon.
What a knob.
Thank you gentlemen for this enlightening discussion. Yes, 'bespoke' has become a marketing tool rather than an accurate description. The English have a phrase, 'buyer beware'.
That's a good phrase indeed! Cheers, Hugo
Thank you for your excellent reviews. I came across a brand "Untamed street". As I understand, the brand is designed in UK and produced in Italy. Could you give your opinion on that brand? Thank you.
Good morning, I just took a look. It's a more modern approach of shoemaking with bulkier toes and rough looks (on purpose). Quite nice actually for those who are looking for a more fashion/trendy look. It's obviously a private label (ie they design and sub-contract the making to a factory) with a factory/atelier located in Montregranaro (the cradle of shoemaking in Italy, the equivalent of Almansa Spain or Northampton UK). Cheers, Hugo
Good afternoon, Hugo. Thank you for your answer. I share you passion for European and global craftsmanship. I have a few pairs of Crocket &Jones, Church and New and Lingwood shoes (New and Lingwood were probably made by C&J). The oldest pairs are more than 20 years, two "youngest" are 13 years old. I resole them. Obviously, the quality of leather and craftsmanship is high.
As an artist, I was struck by what looked to me the visual beauty of the leather used by Untamed street, at least in the photos. It looks so different from the traditional Jermyn street items .The brand drops a few words about the treatment of the leather. I wonder how this treatment affects the quality, durability of the leather they are using?
Your info about Meermin shoes was very interesting and I am going to visit the Meermin store in Paris when I will be there this autumn. So Chinese craft smen are learning the secrets of their Spanish colleagues. ... Chippendale used to send his furniture to China to be lacquered, which is a very complicated process. European chinoiserie style comes to mind...
I vaguely remember some posters of a shoe museum in northern France while driving on the motorway. I worked in Lyon and visited the Museum of silk. The old part of Lyon is, as you probably know , full of small shops selling silk stuff wholesale. I swear at myself for not buying a couple of ties or squares there. I should come back to Lyon and do that!
Thank you again for your in depth analysis of contemporary craftsmanship, Dmitry
Please please please make a video on premium leather sandal makers for men
What is the problem with having a size too wide, if your instep is locked? I have wide feet at my toes, and shoes my size tend to force by big toe inwards, which I don't like. Is it better to have a wider size to accomodate your toes or not?
Perfect opinions, and highly professional talk. But world is not working like this, to be honest. Only rich can take in that manner. Besides you did a very educational video. Thanks for that!.
Not sure I understand your point Florian. But thanks for the kind words, Hugo
Priceless advice and wisdom,as always.
Thank you so much for your kind words! Hugo
Have you ever purchased anything from Richard James? What are your thoughts on them as a whole.
Good morning, Richard James is a tailoring house on Savile Row which has a good reputation and a modern take on tailoring. Cheers, Hugo
i meant in terms of their stuff from off the rack @@SARTORIALTALKS
Motto-stay out of bars! Excellent discussion. Always condition and polish the leather shoes.
Not sure about your motto William haha! Cheers, Hugo
There's a place in the Philippines that's known for shoe making and I'm really curious what guys like you think of their craftsmanship. There are expensive ones (those who created brands for themselves) and there are really really cheap ones (very small businesses) but either way, people have said that they are really durable and from what I've seen, they look good.
Never heard of this. Maybe Justin will know more than me. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS The place is called Marikina, Philippines.
From history we know Americans always appreciate well-meant advice given with a French accent. Haha. Nice video.
Hahaha, you're right about that! Merci beaucoup! Hugo
Bonjour monsieur Jacomet. Je débute ma démarche sartoriale et suis à la recherche d'une paire de souliers pour commencer. En revanche, j'habite à Montréal ! Il m'est ainsi très difficile de trouver des chaussures de qualité que je puisse essayer en magasin (carmina, TLB, septième largeur et compagnies sont assez loin!). Cependant, la boutique Blandin & Delloye de Montréal offre un service "made to order" fabriqué à Almensa. Serait-ce un bon premier achat?
Merci encore pour votre excellent travail !
Passez une excellente soirée,
Alexis
Bonsoir, oui bien sûr. Ce sont justement des souliers fabriqués à Almansa via la plateforme dont nous parlons. Mais B&D pratiquent des prix toujours raisonnables, donc allez-y évidemment (et de ma part !). Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Je vous remercie pour votre réponse très rapide ! J'ai pris un rendez-vous chez B&D !
Un énorme merci du Québec. Alexis
Thank You Gentlemen 😊😀 Enjoy Shoes a Lot 😇
Pleasure my friend! Hugo
is there a market for thin light wood shoe trees?
Yes there is. Bespoke shoes most of the time come with their lasted shoe trees (normally very light). Cheers, Hugo
I'd like to see a review of Carets brand shoes as an option for people with too many foot problems to handle wearing conventional dress shoes.
To be honest with you, I find the designs terrible (proportions are off). They are probably comfortable, but the style is really not my taste. I don't know where you live, but if comfort is your concern, I advise you to take a look at the Mephisto brand (an affordable historical French brand whose reputation is to be extremely comfortable for people with sensitive feet. Not the best designs, but much better than Carets imo). Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I appreciate your honesty.
@@thealienrobotanthropologist Sure
Mr Hugo is back and THANK YOU.. For stating how valuable leather is... Do u know that India is facing a lot of issues because of religious propoganda towards cow leather..... But thankfully it is slowly getting back
I didn't know but it makes sense of course. Never thought about it! Yours, Hugo
the group manufacturer company should create a different version for each customer. so that the same shoe does not appear everyhwerew
I'm not sure it's possible (or even wanted). Cheers, Hugo
Should be a commission based. Bespoke factory has a fix price and new brands earn commission. No inventories etc. MTO only. Put Ur own brand. Deliveries is direct to consumer. Plus bespoke factory charges monthly fees to use their platform. It diminish the confusion.....just my silly thought😅
Not sure this will work my friend 😂😂. Hugo
do adapt a shoe, dip it in hot water for a few minutes. then dry them off and wear them and walk a bit around
Well, never tried this one... Not sure to be honest, but why not. Hugo
Be an informed consumer with intent.
Exactly André! Cheers, Hugo
I love your content, nevertheless i found you mostly focused on outer layer, no doubt sartorial talk is an amazing world, i beleive you missed grooming part for gentlemen, and i beleive that would great side to discuss
Dear friend, so many channels are covering the grooming side of things! I'm not a specialist of this side of things. Cheers, Hugo
The first thing important to me when I look at what a man is wearing are the 👞
All the shoes on the table are amazing
When Rishi went to see King Charles last Wednesday the King was dressed immaculately as always but I noticed his shoes. Oh my ‘top notch’. I think they were suede.
👍 👍 🏴🏴🏴🇬🇧🇬🇧😍😍😀😀
Thanks! King Charles is always impeccable, from head to toes. Best wishes, Hugo
I prefere Redwings!!
Redwings are excellent and sturdy shoes (but not the same style though). Hugo
It would be interesting , if possible, to create an episode dedicated to shoes that are not made from the animal leather; A vegan friendly shoe companies dedicated to non leather making of shoes...
Why not, even if, at the end of the day, Vegan "leather'" (which is of course an improper word, an oxymoron) is much more damageable for the planet (using a lot of petroleum material) than actual leather. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thanks Hugo for the reply. I can listen to you "forever" enjoying your videos, style, vocabulary and expression as a non-native English speaker as well as your caring disposition and bringing sofistication to common men.
"Bespoke" "Handmade" is tossed around - a lot. But at Correa, in Buenos Aires, that old world tradition truly remains: ua-cam.com/video/I-MN9_1doBw/v-deo.html
Sorry, I have a lot of trouble understanding how veganism is responsible for bad leather quality. Makes more sense to me to blame skyrocketing demand for leather and globalization. Increased demand and lack of control on quality of the supply. If anything, veganism would reduce demand for leather and thus cause finer quality leathers to become cheaper.
Dear Sir, you have trouble understanding this because you don't want to understand it. Veganism (against which I have nothing, my daughter being a vegan) is developing. Thus the amount of cows in the slaughter room diminishes and the amount of leather also. It's 2nd grade mathematics. And by the way we never said that veganism was responsible for bad leather quality. This is an intellectual shortcut and not what we said. Kind regards, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for taking the trouble to respond to my comment and to clarify. Perhaps I should retake my 2nd grade math! The economic factors listed by yourself and your guest such as the buying power of the auto industry and large factory concerns buying up available supplies of the best quality leathers are certainly compelling. I have to defer to your expertise but I have to say that I am not as readily persuaded by the argument with respect to the impact of vegetarianism/veganism on the supply of leathers. The factors determining meat consumption include living standards, diet, livestock production, consumer prices, macroeconomic uncertainty and the state of the economy at a given time. Diet is only one of several factors and overall meat consumption has been increasing for decades. This means more animals and more skins, does it not?
How about those golden sneakers just came ouy people are bidding on from former president 😂❤
I have no opinion on this kind of stuff. I'm just French after all. Cheers, Hugo
Topic suggestion: what are some strategies men can use to buy more shoes without their wife killing them? Specifically for the man who already has a lot of shoes.
Each time you buy a pair, buy her a pair! That's the only efficient strategy I know haha! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKSyou think that will work for the average wife? I feel like your wife may have an above average appreciation for this obsession
@@ekoller
Practitioners may substitute other goods and services for footwear, as needed.
Simple: Don’t get married 😂 (which is clearly no longer an option for you haha!).
I go barefoot everywhere. Much better.
Eh, another reason not to like vegans.
😉
🤫🤫😉