Richard just wanted to say thank you for the awesome 2023 of countless hours of information your time for me is gold I hope you have a great new years buddy take care.....Benny
Cannot not get the cat food and ass description out of my mind cuz it’s spot on!! Richard, just a little fyi if I may. The oil company Torco actually makes the Honda oil to their specs. They also made Yamalube, Kawasaki and Suzuki oils along with their own. Had a buddy that worked there about 10 years ago. Great stuff. Used their 4 stroke oils in my kids mini bikes and quads. Klotz makes great oil but is quite expensive. I tried some but not a lot. Few of my buddies swear by it. It works out really well buying a quart or two cuz I have a 2 stroke quad and my usual power equipment. One oil covers me instead of having different bottles kicking around. Thanks for doing this Richard!! Happy New Year!!
Like a lot of others I'm a fan of AMSOIL Saber which Richard also covered in a past video. But because it's hard to get around here I bought a couple bottles of their other two power sports 2stroke oils to try out. Sadly this past summer was total crap with the constant rain so I never got around to cutting anything. It did give me a chance to get the 026 that I've had for the past three or so years up and running again. Like you I'm looking for that one two-stroke oil I can use in all of my chainsaws and both of my vintage dirt bikes once they're up and running. I've noticed while browsing AMSOIL's site that some of their two-stroke oils can be bought in a 16 gallon keg. Royal Purple also has some two-stroke oil but I've never given it a try even though I've ran regular 5w30 RP in my truck a few times.
I only use stihl oil in my saw. Been using this saw since 1996. Changed the spark plug one time 10 years ago just because. I have cut a couple hundred chord of oak fire wood with it. I have used other oils in other saws. Never had a saw last this long before.
Been using H1R for a few years now and it doesn't smell great when running the saw either...if all the motorcycle oils are pretty much equal protection-wise then I might move to one that smells a little better 😁
Great channel! Thanks for making the very informative videos. Being from a very rural part of south western Alaska where everything is not so cheap, it's good to see what I can do to extend the usability of power equipment.
H-1R looks like great oil for sure! I’ve heard great things about it! I’m thinking about switching to it from Saber but the cost is up there for the H-1R.
Hey Richerd, Thanks for doing these test for your viewers. You have got me interested in Schaeffers have you done a test with it yet? And which oil do you think the best so far?
The original video I did a year or so ago "Two stroke oil talk, why anything is better than stihl ultra" Shows what Schaeffers at 40:1 looked like in my 046. Damn fine oil. I'll be using bike oil going forward as it's available locally if I forget to order online.
Another great video I did the same thing you did with Husqvarna and STIHL ultra 2 stroke oil’s straight in the bin they make good saws there oil’s are shit. I’ve been using Belray for for nearly 2 years and very pleased with results. I’ll have to try the Honda HP2 and see the results for myself great videos keep them coming.
Richard...Have a Blessed, Safe, Healthy, and Happy 2024. How do the motorcycle oils compare with Amsoil Saber or Dominator. Have you tried the oils in a stock engine to see if the higher temps they experience has any effect? Just a thought.
I've done a ton of oil testing videos with my old trusty stock 046. A good oil performs under any conditions. I hate to go against the grain, but Dominator in chainsaws is decent. Saber is the better offering from Amsoil. Saber is damn near as good as these bike oils. If you can but it by the quart locally it definitely makes sense at 40 or 50:1. Otherwise try a quality bike oil.
@@richardflagg3084 Thanks for the quick response. I've been using Saber for over twenty years ever since my son used it 32:1in his Puch moped that he put over 28,000 miles on. The guy who bought it was concerned with that many miles so he took the cylinder off and he told my son the piston still had the machining grooves and the cylinder looked like new also!
I have a brand new Stihl 261, non-Mtronic model. I’m buying some Honda HP2 for sure! I have only ran the saw for like 30 seconds twice. (No cutting yet) I will probably mix 50:1.
Dang it Rich, I returned my Red Armor and got Saber lol keep it up 👍 So how does your choice of Schaeffer's and Saber compare to these? Bottom end oil film is one thing but what about long term use deposits plus effect of clogging spark screens?
Awesome test Richard. Yamalube 2R next, assuming you haven't already tested (?). If you don't have access, I'll send you a quart. I'm currently burning my left-over Yamalube in my 800X at 40:1 with Sunoco 91 ethanol free here on Long Island. My guess is, the Yamalube is prolly consistent with the HP2, but is noticeably thinner from a pour and mix standpoint. Mix either with VP small engine 94 and the reek is noticeable, but not objectionable. My go-to fuel is Sunoco 91.
Some definitely smell pretty rank from the bottle, haven't smelled H1-R yet. Long as it smells better once burnt! Yessir👍🏻 always gotta atleast have black eye peas and collards for new years😁 Not a fan of spring assist starters. I swear, some models with "ez start" take more effort to pull over!
Great Oil tests. Now i know what to expect when i burn my gallon of H1R. Try some Maxima K2 it Performed great for me. hopefully you get the same results.
Yes I have that oil .my buddy jack at hotsaws 101. Recommend it to me few years ago ..run that and red armor..going tobget some saber as well.maxima formula k2
40 to 1. on their website,,,it says 32 to 1 on 125cc and smaller. 40 to 1 on bigger engines. honda says 32 to 1. is it really a fair test against the other oils when they are 50 to 1?
I just bought a new bottle of h1r and the color and maybe viscosity not sure seems different its much lighter in color I thought I didnt mix it right or something could you maybe look at that?
Hello and happy year 2024 of health especially thank you for everything you do , this oil topic is exciting I noticed that stihl ultra mixed with aspen 4 it’s not carbon, but with gasoline yes full of carbon on the exhaust light Now I stick to your recommendation aspen 4 and oil husqvarna xp I dose to 43/1 ......40/1 in the big woods thanks again from France
Great vid! Switched my equipment from 80:1 saber to 40:1 because of your vids. What about red armor at 40:1? We run that in our equipment that is still under warranty, not that we have needed it. (I know they say 50:1, but can they tell...)
@@OOOOOO12345 About 3 years in a pas 2620 (I would guess close to 100hrs) and less in my other stuff. 2620 was my first piece of equipment. 9010 blower had over a year of 80:1. I know Saber will do 80:1, but 40:1 will be better long-term. I don't want to be replacing motor parts or complete units because of lack of oil.
50:1 is for the EPA. The tree service I work at ran Saber at 80:1 for years and never had a failure due to lubrication. I can say, at the commercial level, there is some skirt wear (long term). Red Armor is good oil. It's one of the better oils available from the manufacturers. The bike oil is in a different league. You'll save a ton of money measuring and mixing your saw gas if you can buy by the quart. Most of the pre-measured stuff comes out to about $50ish a quart.
I remember you did a break-down of one Stihl saw that you mentioned was Saber 70:1 for a few seasons, and If I recall, there was a decent amount of residual oil in the crankcase. I ran it at 70:1 in a mint condition 029, and did a break-down for a light port job after a few tanks. I saw nice puddling in the case. Not bad. @@richardflagg3084
I'm a huge Saber fan and it's just as good as these at 40:1. Availability is an issue for most. We can all order online, but if ya need something right now, it may be easier to run to the bike shop. I'm done with Stihl, Husky, Echo oils. I feel like I wasted a bunch of time trying to figure out which one was the best when they are all mediocre.
Ive had wonderful luck with this oil at 40:1. Being a 2 stroke guy from way back i shake my bike my saw and the gas can every time i go to use it after sitting…. Habits. That h1r has great residuals after a tear down. I honestly could care less about a smell. You aint smellin it if your out front 😂
Richard - Does that WSC side cover make the saw cut 37% faster? Seriously, would you mind commenting on utility of the side cover? I want to dig it, but unsure what I does for the saw (besides looking cool). As always, great content!
The side covers from Stihl for the 362/400/462/500 are pretty thin and prone to breaking when used in a commercial environment. These are indestructible and are worth every penny as the factory covers are like $60. Gordy sent me a care package and I don't cut commercially. Technically I don't "need" one, but they are cool tho.
@@richardflagg3084 Actually, the "factory side covers" are indeed crappy on these models, hovewer there is the full wrap kit 4the 362 that bolts on the 400c also that is pretty decent quality wise. Happy new year sir !🎉
So, oil does collect in the bottom end. Why is it that it never seems to fill up? I do like what I saw with the Belray, I might get some. Thanks Mr. Flagg
Watch some of my other oil tests. A decent oil will deliver great upper cylinder lubrication. A great oil will actually keep the crankshaft and bearings well lubricated. You'd be surprised how poorly most oils do at 50:1 in the crankcase.
It never collects “much” because of the way that a 2T works. It’s a low flash point oil so that it PURPOSELY doesn’t smoke when it’s burning up and then goes out the exhaust. A good mix WILL have a “minute” amount of oil stay IN the crankcase and you’ll be able to see that tiny amount upon teardown if you ever do such things.
I'm sure somebody else has mentioned this already, but how do these oils compare to a good FD oil? Sure, they provide great lubrication, but how are they going to perform over time, when it comes to deposits and such. A racing engine leads a much different life and is usually run a lot hotter and harder than typical OPE, not to mention it usually gets a lot more maintenance. It's interesting to see oil tests after a tank full, but a lot of differences would be too subtle to detect....I would love to see a longer term test.
I think it's important to note that there are a lot of oils that don't go to a JASO lab for testing. An FD rating does give a confidence that it's going to burn clean. Honestly after doing a lot of these tests, one tank gives a good idea where you're headed. At first I was more concerned about carbon. As I started tearing down after testing, what I became more concerned with was the lack of lubrication in the bottom end at 50:1.
@@peskypeet Carbon in general....in the cylinder ports, or screens. A big felling saw cutting down 36" trees all day should make plenty of heat to burn everything off, but things like climbing saws and ground saws, not to mention trimmers and such, tend to see a much different use profile, with a lot more idle time. I don't have the time or energy to keep a half a dozen different blends (I already have 2) to suit the different use profiles of various pieces of equipment, at the end of the day I need a quality product that's going to perform well in the demanding applications, and do just as well, and burn just as clean, in the trimmers, generators, and snow blowers.
Most bike oils dont leave carbon deposits at all, they leave an oil film instead. If they left carbon deposits the bikes power valves will stick quickly and no one would ever buy that oil again for their bike. The issue you will have with bike oils is when you dont run the saw hard non stop oil will drool out of the muffler.
Man I wish I could send you some penrite ester synthetic from Australia, I would be curious to see how it goes. Let me know if you want a bottle, they say it’s good stuff, but they all say that 😂
Correct, Dominator is for bikes/quads and Interceptor is aimed at snowmobiles but can also be used in dirt bikes and quads. I bought a quart bottle of both over this past summer to give a try in my saws but we had nothing but constant rain. So I was never able to get any cutting in. I love Saber as that's what I started with but getting it in my area is like looking for hens teeth. I'll eventually just end up ordering all of my oil directly from AMSOIL in the future anyway since they give deals with a yearly membership. It's just smarter to buy direct and skip the retailers. I just hate having to constantly make a new account on another website just to order stuff so I've been procrastinating. In the long run it'll save me a few bucks just buying it directly from them as well as the oil for my truck.
@@richardflagg3084 I couldn't agree more. There's one parts store just down the road from my house that sold Saber. That's where I discovered it and bought it originally. Now they no longer sell it. Every other small mom & pop business around here sells AMSOIL but it's usually just Dominator and Interceptor. Since stores don't seem to want to carry what I'm looking then I'll just go directly to AMSOIL themselves and cut out the middleman. I can get two-stroke oil in a 16 gallon keg from them if I'm wanting to go that path in the future. 😁
Cat food and ass😂 I love it. I still think you should try klotz oil. We ran that for so many years in our snowmobiles and dirt bikes with great results
So what was the Honda oil called ..have the ratio rite going to try those oils ..ordered some saber .to been useing redarmor for my 2511t s plural mainly for warranty but had one 5 years never needed warranty.other ones ported .so.
What ratio and what you think? I been running super techniplate 10 years between mx bike, weedeater, and saw.. at 32:1. Haven't ran the saw much but have gave my weedeater hell 😂 starts just as good if not better than the day I bought it.
Nope. I like seeing for my self how they perform rather than trying to figure out what additive is right for the application. Kinda like the old saying, Trust but Verify.
@@thomaslindroos1667 Kind of depends on what it was built for and how it's tuned. If the builder specified API-TC over TCW-3 then stay with that. Every outboard manufacturer I've encountered specifies TCW-3, not very often (almost never) is API-TC specified in the marine industry. If your motor has some kind of special performance build, the builder may have used a ring package and tuning techniques he believes justifies API-TC. I have a marine engine with iron sleeves, guillotine valves in the exhaust ports and expansion pipe which was spec'd for API-TC. I'm using BRP XPS2 2T with success. BEL RAY makes fantastic oil, maybe it's the best at least it's right up there. But your typical 2-stroke Outboards are all spec'd for the hydrazine detergent package used in TCW-3, not the low-ash detergent package used in API-TC for various reasons, the detergent package may not perform well at low cylinder wall temperatures. Consider why you wound up using API-TC spec oil. One more important thing to remember is never mix TCW-3 and API-TC type oils in an injection system tank, these two packages are known to gel into a thick goo when mixed, so take precaution and always consult the manufacturers instructions/expertise.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 yes its a race engine. But this was interesting, I will have to delve in more on this topic and maybe come ask more questions of you. Thanks Captain
He has. He's also tested the small 2.6oz bottles to see if you actually get 2.6oz of oil in them, which you don't sadly. But he has tested it and does burn clean & leaves a good film in the cylinder and on the crank at 40:1. :)
@@Bixby-and-Buckshot You are welcome. It's a video from a month ago titled "Two Stroke Oil Test! VP Racing 40:1" He actually posted it after the video he did of testing the little bottles for oil amount if you're wanting to watch for yourself. :)
Am I the only one getting excessive cooking on the piston with h1r? Been running it a couple months and some of my pistons have as much cooking on them as some of Richard's ultra videos. Kinda disappointed with this oil. Going to give royal purple a try and see if it's any better. If not I'll be going back to husqvarna oil.
I wonder what’s the long term effects on the plug and spark arrestor using a thicker oil. I’m going to buy the best oil I can run and these videos help me tremendously. Thanks, Flagg. 🇺🇸
These three seem to burn pretty clean. The Honda and Motul had zero carbon after a tank. I think that says a lot. The Belray only left a faint wash pattern. Not a long term test by any means, but I like what I see.
7 crews working 4-5 days a week makes a big pile fast. We do set aside some of the wood for it's Intended purpose. Some gets slabbed and some goes to firewood.
You can find it online or order from your local dealer. Part number 5910 890 2415. I've yet to break one. Have wore two out. Money well spent. I think they are only like $12-15 at the dealer.
Love watching this channel. No agenda, just facts and loud chainsaws……perfect.
Richard just wanted to say thank you for the awesome 2023 of countless hours of information your time for me is gold I hope you have a great new years buddy take care.....Benny
Thank you!
@@richardflagg3084Mottul 710 2t oil ok ? Mix 1/4 ,1/5 ? Sthil 391,462
Cannot not get the cat food and ass description out of my mind cuz it’s spot on!!
Richard, just a little fyi if I may. The oil company Torco actually makes the Honda oil to their specs. They also made Yamalube, Kawasaki and Suzuki oils along with their own. Had a buddy that worked there about 10 years ago. Great stuff. Used their 4 stroke oils in my kids mini bikes and quads.
Klotz makes great oil but is quite expensive. I tried some but not a lot. Few of my buddies swear by it.
It works out really well buying a quart or two cuz I have a 2 stroke quad and my usual power equipment. One oil covers me instead of having different bottles kicking around.
Thanks for doing this Richard!! Happy New Year!!
Like a lot of others I'm a fan of AMSOIL Saber which Richard also covered in a past video. But because it's hard to get around here I bought a couple bottles of their other two power sports 2stroke oils to try out. Sadly this past summer was total crap with the constant rain so I never got around to cutting anything. It did give me a chance to get the 026 that I've had for the past three or so years up and running again.
Like you I'm looking for that one two-stroke oil I can use in all of my chainsaws and both of my vintage dirt bikes once they're up and running. I've noticed while browsing AMSOIL's site that some of their two-stroke oils can be bought in a 16 gallon keg. Royal Purple also has some two-stroke oil but I've never given it a try even though I've ran regular 5w30 RP in my truck a few times.
“… it smells *vile…”* (when unburnt.)
5 minutes later and I'm still giggling😂
Great information! Real world testing is the only thing that counts. Thanks for taking the time to do this!
Your a good dude rich. Keep up the good work.
Thank you Sir! Happy New Year
I only use stihl oil in my saw. Been using this saw since 1996. Changed the spark plug one time 10 years ago just because. I have cut a couple hundred chord of oak fire wood with it. I have used other oils in other saws. Never had a saw last this long before.
All the moto oils you tested so far are high viscosity, proven racing oils for premix applications. Gonna be superior 🏁
Been excited to see the other bike oils, pleased another one is out :)
Happy New Year Sir. Keep it coming!
Been using H1R for a few years now and it doesn't smell great when running the saw either...if all the motorcycle oils are pretty much equal protection-wise then I might move to one that smells a little better 😁
I actually like the way it smells running it through my saw.
Klotz r50
Great channel! Thanks for making the very informative videos. Being from a very rural part of south western Alaska where everything is not so cheap, it's good to see what I can do to extend the usability of power equipment.
Echo Red Armor has that pungent smell too. Another awesome video!
I didn't notice that at first but later smelled it on my clothes.
Yep red armour smells like shit in the bottle
Also makes clothes stink running it
H-1R looks like great oil for sure! I’ve heard great things about it! I’m thinking about switching to it from Saber but the cost is up there for the H-1R.
Love this channel there's no bullshit thank you
Thank you Richard for sharing your knowledge with us .Have a wonderful New Year
Rich happy new years..
Rite back atcha! Thank you
Hey Richerd, Thanks for doing these test for your viewers. You have got me interested in Schaeffers have you done a test with it yet? And which oil do you think the best so far?
The original video I did a year or so ago "Two stroke oil talk, why anything is better than stihl ultra" Shows what Schaeffers at 40:1 looked like in my 046. Damn fine oil. I'll be using bike oil going forward as it's available locally if I forget to order online.
Another great video I did the same thing you did with Husqvarna and STIHL ultra 2 stroke oil’s straight in the bin they make good saws there oil’s are shit.
I’ve been using Belray for for nearly 2 years and very pleased with results.
I’ll have to try the Honda HP2 and see the results for myself great videos keep them coming.
I wish you'd test BRP XPS2 full syn, I've been running it @32:1 for a couple decades in my saws.
OE manufactures are in the business of selling outdoor power equipment. Remember that when running manufacture oils.
Good way to look at it Jake.
But, but, but they'll double your warranty.........🤣🤣🤣
can you get in the us [ Silkolene Pro 2 Motorcycle Racing 2 Stroke Oil ] if you can this is one to try , and the burn smell is very nice ,
Would love to see ipone r2000rs tested, cheap liter of Jaso fd oil. Great work as usual Richard
Very good oil,recommended.
Another great comparison thanks! Totally agree! Very keen to see the maxima
Great channel !! Thanks for the info as well …
Thank you!
Richard...Have a Blessed, Safe, Healthy, and Happy 2024. How do the motorcycle oils compare with Amsoil Saber or Dominator. Have you tried the oils in a stock engine to see if the higher temps they experience has any effect? Just a thought.
I've done a ton of oil testing videos with my old trusty stock 046. A good oil performs under any conditions. I hate to go against the grain, but Dominator in chainsaws is decent. Saber is the better offering from Amsoil. Saber is damn near as good as these bike oils. If you can but it by the quart locally it definitely makes sense at 40 or 50:1. Otherwise try a quality bike oil.
@@richardflagg3084 Thanks for the quick response. I've been using Saber for over twenty years ever since my son used it 32:1in his Puch moped that he put over 28,000 miles on. The guy who bought it was concerned with that many miles so he took the cylinder off and he told my son the piston still had the machining grooves and the cylinder looked like new also!
@@obxkoastie8170 That's pretty impressive!!
just got a gallon of saber, stick with 50:1 or 40:1? thanks
Honestly, 50:1 is pretty decent. At 40:1 it still burns squeaky clean and leaves an even better film. Your call.
thank you sir, happy new year @@richardflagg3084
I have a brand new Stihl 261, non-Mtronic model. I’m buying some Honda HP2 for sure! I have only ran the saw for like 30 seconds twice. (No cutting yet) I will probably mix 50:1.
Love all your insight, are you thinking some of these moto oils are better than sabre...
Saber can hang with two of these oils at 40:1. Just not the Honda.
Dang it Rich, I returned my Red Armor and got Saber lol keep it up 👍
So how does your choice of Schaeffer's and Saber compare to these? Bottom end oil film is one thing but what about long term use deposits plus effect of clogging spark screens?
Saber is right there with these bike oils. Ur good at 40 or 50:1.
I've been running Saber at 50:1 for quite a while now and it's excellent. These oils are impressive but so is the Saber
What is your $1,300 saw worth to you?
I ran H1R, now im trying the 800 offroad. I'll probably go back to bel-ray when I'm out of this motul.
Awesome test Richard. Yamalube 2R next, assuming you haven't already tested (?). If you don't have access, I'll send you a quart. I'm currently burning my left-over Yamalube in my 800X at 40:1 with Sunoco 91 ethanol free here on Long Island. My guess is, the Yamalube is prolly consistent with the HP2, but is noticeably thinner from a pour and mix standpoint. Mix either with VP small engine 94 and the reek is noticeable, but not objectionable. My go-to fuel is Sunoco 91.
I'll have to give 2R a try.
@@richardflagg3084yes you do!
Some definitely smell pretty rank from the bottle, haven't smelled H1-R yet. Long as it smells better once burnt!
Yessir👍🏻 always gotta atleast have black eye peas and collards for new years😁
Not a fan of spring assist starters. I swear, some models with "ez start" take more effort to pull over!
Great Oil tests. Now i know what to expect when i burn my gallon of H1R. Try some Maxima K2 it Performed great for me. hopefully you get the same results.
Yes I have that oil
.my buddy jack at hotsaws 101. Recommend it to me few years ago ..run that and red armor..going tobget some saber as well.maxima formula k2
I use 927 in summer and K2 in winter. Have also ran Super M when I couldn’t get others
Have bought K2 for the Zenoah (43cc) to run a lightweight emergency DC generator.
5:16 Now that's a sharp chain! Love it 😃 Look at that pile grow!
It's because he's noodling a soft wood...
40 to 1.
on their website,,,it says 32 to 1 on 125cc and smaller. 40 to 1 on bigger engines.
honda says 32 to 1.
is it really a fair test against the other oils when they are 50 to 1?
Good stuff, thanks for all the info!
Thank you! Happy New Year
You going to try some yamalube full synthetic 2S I think it’s called. Gold bottle.
Commenting to help your algorithm
I just bought a new bottle of h1r and the color and maybe viscosity not sure seems different its much lighter in color I thought I didnt mix it right or something could you maybe look at that?
Hello and happy year 2024 of health especially
thank you for everything you do , this oil topic is exciting
I noticed that stihl ultra mixed with aspen 4 it’s not carbon, but with gasoline yes full of carbon on the exhaust light
Now I stick to your recommendation aspen 4 and oil husqvarna xp I dose to 43/1 ......40/1 in the big woods
thanks again from France
Huswarna xp 2t oil 👌👍 4/1
Great vid! Switched my equipment from 80:1 saber to 40:1 because of your vids. What about red armor at 40:1? We run that in our equipment that is still under warranty, not that we have needed it. (I know they say 50:1, but can they tell...)
How long did you run 80:1? Any issues? I run Saber but at 50:1 and still a little nervous but never had any problems from old to new saws.
@@OOOOOO12345 About 3 years in a pas 2620 (I would guess close to 100hrs) and less in my other stuff. 2620 was my first piece of equipment. 9010 blower had over a year of 80:1. I know Saber will do 80:1, but 40:1 will be better long-term. I don't want to be replacing motor parts or complete units because of lack of oil.
50:1 is for the EPA. The tree service I work at ran Saber at 80:1 for years and never had a failure due to lubrication. I can say, at the commercial level, there is some skirt wear (long term). Red Armor is good oil. It's one of the better oils available from the manufacturers. The bike oil is in a different league. You'll save a ton of money measuring and mixing your saw gas if you can buy by the quart. Most of the pre-measured stuff comes out to about $50ish a quart.
@@richardflagg3084 I bought a gallon a while back to avoid the pre measured prices!
I remember you did a break-down of one Stihl saw that you mentioned was Saber 70:1 for a few seasons, and If I recall, there was a decent amount of residual oil in the crankcase. I ran it at 70:1 in a mint condition 029, and did a break-down for a light port job after a few tanks. I saw nice puddling in the case. Not bad. @@richardflagg3084
So these motorcycle oils or amsoil saber?
I'm a huge Saber fan and it's just as good as these at 40:1. Availability is an issue for most. We can all order online, but if ya need something right now, it may be easier to run to the bike shop. I'm done with Stihl, Husky, Echo oils. I feel like I wasted a bunch of time trying to figure out which one was the best when they are all mediocre.
holly cow look at that chip pile, man that saw is something, one day I upgrade to a newer saw.
I ran Stihl Ultra in my weed whacker until I started watching these videos, always thought it smelled fishey when running.
It does smell nasty!
Thanks for confirming the foul odor.
Nice info Rich ❤❤❤
Have you tried amsoil dominator or interceptor? I know interceptor is an injection oil but it can also be premixed I use it in the winter on my saws.
Vp best overall all around IMO. Stuff is just fantastic
Ive had wonderful luck with this oil at 40:1. Being a 2 stroke guy from way back i shake my bike my saw and the gas can every time i go to use it after sitting…. Habits. That h1r has great residuals after a tear down. I honestly could care less about a smell. You aint smellin it if your out front 😂
Richard - Does that WSC side cover make the saw cut 37% faster? Seriously, would you mind commenting on utility of the side cover? I want to dig it, but unsure what I does for the saw (besides looking cool). As always, great content!
The side covers from Stihl for the 362/400/462/500 are pretty thin and prone to breaking when used in a commercial environment. These are indestructible and are worth every penny as the factory covers are like $60. Gordy sent me a care package and I don't cut commercially. Technically I don't "need" one, but they are cool tho.
@@richardflagg3084 Actually, the "factory side covers" are indeed crappy on these models, hovewer there is the full wrap kit 4the 362 that bolts on the 400c also that is pretty decent quality wise. Happy new year sir !🎉
@@richardflagg3084 Fair enough. Thanks for the feedback. Happy New Year!
I like that it has a larger opening for the chips to fly especially when ripping. You hardly ever need to pull the noodles out.
I started using bell ray Si7 It’s nice
So, oil does collect in the bottom end. Why is it that it never seems to fill up? I do like what I saw with the Belray, I might get some. Thanks Mr. Flagg
Watch some of my other oil tests. A decent oil will deliver great upper cylinder lubrication. A great oil will actually keep the crankshaft and bearings well lubricated. You'd be surprised how poorly most oils do at 50:1 in the crankcase.
It never collects “much” because of the way that a 2T works. It’s a low flash point oil so that it PURPOSELY doesn’t smoke when it’s burning up and then goes out the exhaust. A good mix WILL have a “minute” amount of oil stay IN the crankcase and you’ll be able to see that tiny amount upon teardown if you ever do such things.
I just ordered some Redline Allsports 2 stroke oil to try
You need to test oregon two stroke oil, see what thats like
I'm sure somebody else has mentioned this already, but how do these oils compare to a good FD oil? Sure, they provide great lubrication, but how are they going to perform over time, when it comes to deposits and such. A racing engine leads a much different life and is usually run a lot hotter and harder than typical OPE, not to mention it usually gets a lot more maintenance. It's interesting to see oil tests after a tank full, but a lot of differences would be too subtle to detect....I would love to see a longer term test.
Chainsaws typically run hot. As far as oil deposits, you don’t have those in a 2stroke like you do/would in a 4.
I think it's important to note that there are a lot of oils that don't go to a JASO lab for testing. An FD rating does give a confidence that it's going to burn clean. Honestly after doing a lot of these tests, one tank gives a good idea where you're headed. At first I was more concerned about carbon. As I started tearing down after testing, what I became more concerned with was the lack of lubrication in the bottom end at 50:1.
@@ToddAdams1234 It is possible he meant in the spark arrestor screen.
@@peskypeet Carbon in general....in the cylinder ports, or screens. A big felling saw cutting down 36" trees all day should make plenty of heat to burn everything off, but things like climbing saws and ground saws, not to mention trimmers and such, tend to see a much different use profile, with a lot more idle time. I don't have the time or energy to keep a half a dozen different blends (I already have 2) to suit the different use profiles of various pieces of equipment, at the end of the day I need a quality product that's going to perform well in the demanding applications, and do just as well, and burn just as clean, in the trimmers, generators, and snow blowers.
Most bike oils dont leave carbon deposits at all, they leave an oil film instead. If they left carbon deposits the bikes power valves will stick quickly and no one would ever buy that oil again for their bike.
The issue you will have with bike oils is when you dont run the saw hard non stop oil will drool out of the muffler.
Man I wish I could send you some penrite ester synthetic from Australia, I would be curious to see how it goes. Let me know if you want a bottle, they say it’s good stuff, but they all say that 😂
I think amsoil dominator is for bikes is it not? I started using saber and it seems to work well. I mix 40:1 though
Correct, Dominator is for bikes/quads and Interceptor is aimed at snowmobiles but can also be used in dirt bikes and quads. I bought a quart bottle of both over this past summer to give a try in my saws but we had nothing but constant rain. So I was never able to get any cutting in. I love Saber as that's what I started with but getting it in my area is like looking for hens teeth.
I'll eventually just end up ordering all of my oil directly from AMSOIL in the future anyway since they give deals with a yearly membership. It's just smarter to buy direct and skip the retailers. I just hate having to constantly make a new account on another website just to order stuff so I've been procrastinating. In the long run it'll save me a few bucks just buying it directly from them as well as the oil for my truck.
@@Slane583Your spot on. It shouldn't be a PITA to order online or find locally.
@@richardflagg3084 I couldn't agree more. There's one parts store just down the road from my house that sold Saber. That's where I discovered it and bought it originally. Now they no longer sell it.
Every other small mom & pop business around here sells AMSOIL but it's usually just Dominator and Interceptor.
Since stores don't seem to want to carry what I'm looking then I'll just go directly to AMSOIL themselves and cut out the middleman.
I can get two-stroke oil in a 16 gallon keg from them if I'm wanting to go that path in the future.
😁
What about outboard oils , like mercury marine quick silver. ?
I've personally never used it so I can't say one way or the other. I have used Schaeffers 7000 TC-W3 and it is a very good oil.
I was told along time ago, when working on boat's, use oil with tc3 and you won't have problems
❤ great video
Cat food and ass😂 I love it. I still think you should try klotz oil. We ran that for so many years in our snowmobiles and dirt bikes with great results
Just got a bottle of h1r,stick at 40:1 ? Ty
So what was the Honda oil called ..have the ratio rite going to try those oils ..ordered some saber .to been useing redarmor for my 2511t s plural mainly for warranty but had one 5 years never needed warranty.other ones ported .so.
HP2
I just got some Klotz R51 I’m going to try. It’s is very thick and supposedly has that awesome Klotz smell. We will see!
What ratio and what you think? I been running super techniplate 10 years between mx bike, weedeater, and saw.. at 32:1. Haven't ran the saw much but have gave my weedeater hell 😂 starts just as good if not better than the day I bought it.
Never fouled a plug, but it does seem a lil dirty.. I bought some dominator I was thinking of going 40:1 but idk, 🤷♂️
40:1 is what I’ve ran my saws with the Klotz. Seems to be fine
Do you send oil samples in for analysis of these to see what the additive packages are?
Nope. I like seeing for my self how they perform rather than trying to figure out what additive is right for the application. Kinda like the old saying, Trust but Verify.
20 dollars a liter is fine and all with chainsaws but when it comes to outboards its a different game
Outboards aren't air cooled, run TCW-3 because it has the correct detergent package. Air-cooled 2-strokes should use low-ash API-TC 2T
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 I run bel ray si7 in my racing outboard at 33/1 which is a low flash oil. What do you think I should run?
@@thomaslindroos1667 Kind of depends on what it was built for and how it's tuned. If the builder specified API-TC over TCW-3 then stay with that. Every outboard manufacturer I've encountered specifies TCW-3, not very often (almost never) is API-TC specified in the marine industry.
If your motor has some kind of special performance build, the builder may have used a ring package and tuning techniques he believes justifies API-TC.
I have a marine engine with iron sleeves, guillotine valves in the exhaust ports and expansion pipe which was spec'd for API-TC. I'm using BRP XPS2 2T with success.
BEL RAY makes fantastic oil, maybe it's the best at least it's right up there.
But your typical 2-stroke Outboards are all spec'd for the hydrazine detergent package used in TCW-3, not the low-ash detergent package used in API-TC for various reasons, the detergent package may not perform well at low cylinder wall temperatures.
Consider why you wound up using API-TC spec oil.
One more important thing to remember is never mix TCW-3 and API-TC type oils in an injection system tank, these two packages are known to gel into a thick goo when mixed, so take precaution and always consult the manufacturers instructions/expertise.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 yes its a race engine. But this was interesting, I will have to delve in more on this topic and maybe come ask more questions of you. Thanks Captain
Have you done VP 2 cycle? I use that, and its been running really great. I'd love to see if it holds up.
He has. He's also tested the small 2.6oz bottles to see if you actually get 2.6oz of oil in them, which you don't sadly. But he has tested it and does burn clean & leaves a good film in the cylinder and on the crank at 40:1. :)
@@Slane583 oh perfect! Thanks for the update. I’ve had really good luck with VP. I’ll stick with it.
@@Bixby-and-Buckshot You are welcome. It's a video from a month ago titled "Two Stroke Oil Test! VP Racing 40:1" He actually posted it after the video he did of testing the little bottles for oil amount if you're wanting to watch for yourself. :)
@@Slane583Thank you.
@@richardflagg3084 You are welcome. :)
Lot of them oils stank out of the bottle. Red armor kinda got the stank too.
It sure does
Am I the only one getting excessive cooking on the piston with h1r? Been running it a couple months and some of my pistons have as much cooking on them as some of Richard's ultra videos. Kinda disappointed with this oil. Going to give royal purple a try and see if it's any better. If not I'll be going back to husqvarna oil.
Saber or HP2 at 40:1 should be your next oil. Let me know how it goes. They both burn freaky clean.
@@richardflagg3084 I'll have to see if I can get a bottle of hp2 and try. Thanks!
Can u test Royle Purple??
I wonder what’s the long term effects on the plug and spark arrestor using a thicker oil. I’m going to buy the best oil I can run and these videos help me tremendously. Thanks, Flagg. 🇺🇸
These three seem to burn pretty clean. The Honda and Motul had zero carbon after a tank. I think that says a lot. The Belray only left a faint wash pattern. Not a long term test by any means, but I like what I see.
Red Armor is no bueno?
Yamalube 2-R next time?
Never noticed bad smell .but haven't tried that oil
Truly is rank in the bottle
Castor only un mixes under 32f. It wrote on the bottle😂.
I like pictures. Lol!
What about yamalube 2 cycle oil
Maxima K2?
Try golden spectro
What ratio was you mixing the bel ray
40:1
IPONE has a 2stk oil that smells like strawberries.
The spark plug looks a little white
Tell me they don't mulch those firewood logs??yikes..some good wood I've seen you cutting forcyears now ..
7 crews working 4-5 days a week makes a big pile fast. We do set aside some of the wood for it's Intended purpose. Some gets slabbed and some goes to firewood.
You must get into slot of dirt .I have to carry wire brush in my wood pile wich is most ly slpitt up now..need some more loggs for chains ⛓..
Only when we grind and everything gets drug around the lot.
is there a stihl kit with the t handle tools?
You can find it online or order from your local dealer. Part number 5910 890 2415. I've yet to break one. Have wore two out. Money well spent. I think they are only like $12-15 at the dealer.
Stihl 5910-890-2415 will have a 200mm long shaft. Stihl 5910-890-2400 will have a 150mm long shaft.
Wow
Cat food and a$$=rainbows and unicorns!?!?!😂😂😂😂
Gotta have some color in the vidja 🤣🤣
Suppose it’s better than burnt A$$ and cat food.
Rainbows & unicorns..
Juses H Christ are you from CA, OR, or WA 😂
Another great video Richard. Happy New Year!
11:42 Oh no ! ,🤣
😎
Did you say cat food and ass?😂😂😂😂
😎
I like chainsaws.
language please
See buddy your chain is not cutting to good buddy .
Cat food and butt!! Ha ha ha
Have you tried OPTI-2 2cycle Synthetic.
Russell