thats pretty cool. btw if you look at all the new crazy thin armor comming out, they all have a single or double layer of arimid behind the poly ethylene. not sure how they bond it or if they do at all. polyeth actually perforates backwards to what you would expect and i think the abrasion resistance or difference in speed of sound of aramid helps a lot with this for some reason. i still think that the strike face is not so imporant. i think the strike face should be sized for the yaw of the treats you expect to stop. so like for 556 it is a relativly long and narrow round which is meant to tumble so it wouldnt need as big of a strike face to disorent. with 308 its gemotry is such that there is much more moment of inertia to overcome when impacting the strike face. i say buy some sapphire lenses for watches. theyre like 2$ each now, same place as u got the uhmwpe. or try the largest agragate size you can find for water cutters. i think they make that out of boron carbide or boron nitride. other ideas are ceramic ball bearings. thanks for uploading.
I'd say I'm surprised but not really. I kind of figured knowing what I already know about the physics behind bullet resistant armor and materials that reaching NIJ Level IV has more to do with the strike face than it does with the backer. The strike face material and how hard it actually is makes all the difference in whether you get gut punched or a hole the size of a Kansas City watermelon put into your body by steel core .30-06.
M2AP's core is in the 750hb hardness range. (and i believe to be around ~7 in moh scale) porcelain and kwartz are usually around ~7 moh hardness while alluminium oxyde at 9 so, it make sense that porcelain fail, since not hard enough to flatten nor erode M2AP core.
The alumina strikeface: Was it made to resist ballistics threats or was it made for something else? It would work even better if the following backing layers are directly supporting the strikeface when struck Nice video, always appriciate your tests ;)
How about porcelain on level 3 steel. Maybe one with something in between like wood or hdpe melted milk jugs to bond it. Its still towards a Budget build. Level 3 is pretty disappointing normally. Its steel but as far as steels go its pretty soft. 3+ steel plates are often thinner than 3 plates.
Cheap sharpening stones are made from aluminum oxide... They're usually kind of thick. Idk what the thickness needs to be or if you could split them in half
8"L x 2"W x 1" and they're like less than 2 dollars. Not sure if it's the same quality as what they make armor out of for 10 dollars you coukd make an 8" x 10" panel
Breathin bro u need ur pump love the content but u are n breathn right hit that albuterol damn the plates and also i dont like how u sound hopefully a albuterol machine tryit tho bro u sound how i feel sir snd i dontnt feel too well sir thanksfor ur videos
There are many different ceramic and polyurethane products. So to be completely clear, the best results were with an aluminum oxide ceramic strike face and UHMWPE backer.
Basically porcelain tile is made from more refined clay and it's fired at higher temperatures. This makes it denser and more durable (harder) than ceramic tile.
Blackbeard protective products is probably the best source blackbeardpp.com/shop/ols/products/multi-curve-body-armor-ceramic-tile-aluminum-oxide-al2o3-alumina-98-dot-5-percent-purity unless you have use of a high temp kiln. Then making you own isn’t that hard.
@@3RBallisticswhen it comes to that particular ceramic strike face I’m concerned about matching the multi curve to the laminated fiberglass. Have you thought at any solutions for this? I’m sure the plates themselves can’t be used to press, but maybe to make a mold from something like concrete?
@@TheStarLord99 I’ve actually done both. I’ve used the plates (with parchment paper to separate) and light clamp pressure with 25 layers of fiberglass. This produces a reasonable end weight of about 8 pounds. I’ve also used a hard mold to try and apply more pressure and reduce the fiberglass resin consumption. While I was able to drop the total weight to 7 pounds 4 ounces the fiberglass wasn’t an exact match to the ceramic. So it’s kind of hit and miss depending on what your application might be.
@@3RBallistics would 25 layers of epoxy fiberglass as the backing to an alumina strikeface have the same performance as the polyethylene combo in this video? how many layers would? from past videos it seems like fiberglass doesn't have much back face deformation, it either stops it or it fails..
Agreed, if they were built for body armor. However, these tests were for a shield (for cover) build not body armor. I do believe all we’re under or at 1.5” thick which theoretically would fit if built in a smaller shooters cut 🤷🏻♂️
Here's a fun exercise to try while watching this video. See if you can count all the times he says "go ahead and..." or "went ahead..." (hint, it exceeds 50) Talk about a verbal crutch, and so distracting from the message he is trying to deliver.
I would like to see a build video on the successful plate
Doing God's work.
thats pretty cool. btw if you look at all the new crazy thin armor comming out, they all have a single or double layer of arimid behind the poly ethylene. not sure how they bond it or if they do at all. polyeth actually perforates backwards to what you would expect and i think the abrasion resistance or difference in speed of sound of aramid helps a lot with this for some reason. i still think that the strike face is not so imporant. i think the strike face should be sized for the yaw of the treats you expect to stop. so like for 556 it is a relativly long and narrow round which is meant to tumble so it wouldnt need as big of a strike face to disorent. with 308 its gemotry is such that there is much more moment of inertia to overcome when impacting the strike face.
i say buy some sapphire lenses for watches. theyre like 2$ each now, same place as u got the uhmwpe. or try the largest agragate size you can find for water cutters. i think they make that out of boron carbide or boron nitride. other ideas are ceramic ball bearings. thanks for uploading.
Awesome video, great work as always!
Your last sample did stop the AP 06...but considering the amount of deformation the impact would have likely incapacitated if not killed the wearer.
Actually, 20mm back face deformation is really not that bad. NIJ allows 44mm deformation to pass standards.
I'd say I'm surprised but not really. I kind of figured knowing what I already know about the physics behind bullet resistant armor and materials that reaching NIJ Level IV has more to do with the strike face than it does with the backer. The strike face material and how hard it actually is makes all the difference in whether you get gut punched or a hole the size of a Kansas City watermelon put into your body by steel core .30-06.
Try backing the successful plate with half inch Eva foam.
M2AP's core is in the 750hb hardness range. (and i believe to be around ~7 in moh scale)
porcelain and kwartz are usually around ~7 moh hardness
while alluminium oxyde at 9
so, it make sense that porcelain fail, since not hard enough to flatten nor erode M2AP core.
granite tiles would be an option to try
The alumina strikeface: Was it made to resist ballistics threats or was it made for something else?
It would work even better if the following backing layers are directly supporting the strikeface when struck
Nice video, always appriciate your tests ;)
How about porcelain on level 3 steel. Maybe one with something in between like wood or hdpe melted milk jugs to bond it. Its still towards a Budget build.
Level 3 is pretty disappointing normally. Its steel but as far as steels go its pretty soft. 3+ steel plates are often thinner than 3 plates.
Would woven polypropylene fabric (livestock feed sacks) work for level III, you think?
Awesome dude
Cheap sharpening stones are made from aluminum oxide... They're usually kind of thick. Idk what the thickness needs to be or if you could split them in half
8"L x 2"W x 1" and they're like less than 2 dollars. Not sure if it's the same quality as what they make armor out of for 10 dollars you coukd make an 8" x 10" panel
Breathin bro u need ur pump love the content but u are n breathn right hit that albuterol damn the plates and also i dont like how u sound hopefully a albuterol machine tryit tho bro u sound how i feel sir snd i dontnt feel too well sir thanksfor ur videos
Are you ok dude You seem to have some issues...please take care of yourself, god bless.
great work man.
For the porcelain tile and woven roven plate: how did you bond the woven roven together? Was it epoxy resin?
Yes, I used Total Boat brand epoxy resin.
Nice
So did the ability to flex due to the lack of a rigid backer not contribute?
Im confused because my english is not that good. The best result was ceramic pile with polyethylene? Or im wrong?
There are many different ceramic and polyurethane products. So to be completely clear, the best results were with an aluminum oxide ceramic strike face and UHMWPE backer.
@@3RBallistics thx 4 the answer, god bless u
What’s the difference between porcelain tile and ceramic tiles??
Basically porcelain tile is made from more refined clay and it's fired at higher temperatures. This makes it denser and more durable (harder) than ceramic tile.
What's going on with your breathing? Are you ok?
Where can alumina ceramic tiles be sourced?
Blackbeard protective products is probably the best source blackbeardpp.com/shop/ols/products/multi-curve-body-armor-ceramic-tile-aluminum-oxide-al2o3-alumina-98-dot-5-percent-purity
unless you have use of a high temp kiln. Then making you own isn’t that hard.
Thank you! I don’t know why, I was coming up with absolutely nothing useful searching for this stuff lol
@@3RBallisticswhen it comes to that particular ceramic strike face I’m concerned about matching the multi curve to the laminated fiberglass. Have you thought at any solutions for this? I’m sure the plates themselves can’t be used to press, but maybe to make a mold from something like concrete?
@@TheStarLord99 I’ve actually done both. I’ve used the plates (with parchment paper to separate) and light clamp pressure with 25 layers of fiberglass. This produces a reasonable end weight of about 8 pounds. I’ve also used a hard mold to try and apply more pressure and reduce the fiberglass resin consumption. While I was able to drop the total weight to 7 pounds 4 ounces the fiberglass wasn’t an exact match to the ceramic. So it’s kind of hit and miss depending on what your application might be.
@@3RBallistics would 25 layers of epoxy fiberglass as the backing to an alumina strikeface have the same performance as the polyethylene combo in this video? how many layers would? from past videos it seems like fiberglass doesn't have much back face deformation, it either stops it or it fails..
RAD
Most are Too Thick for realistic use
Agreed, if they were built for body armor. However, these tests were for a shield (for cover) build not body armor. I do believe all we’re under or at 1.5” thick which theoretically would fit if built in a smaller shooters cut 🤷🏻♂️
Here's a fun exercise to try while watching this video. See if you can count all the times he says "go ahead and..." or "went ahead..." (hint, it exceeds 50)
Talk about a verbal crutch, and so distracting from the message he is trying to deliver.
Thanks for the feedback. I’m always up for learning and can use the constructive criticism.
Nice