Looking at all of this ( great work btw) the conclusion is: If your Ev gets older and is out of warranty and something in there breaks, it's totaled. You always have to change the whole pack. Not even a cell has to be bad. Its enough when one single electronic part of the BMS fails. Looking at this the BMS is much more complex then I thought.
Well first this is a home tear down. If you watch a modern mobile phone tear down, you need the right equipment to break them down. You will need a heated table to activate the sealer, and solvents to remove the foam fillers. There is always a trade off between repairability and reliability. For you to have a waterproof battery pack that can survive 300k km of abuse on poor quality roads, it's going to be assembled in a way that is going to constrain vibrations and contain water ingress.
Very interesting work! 👍 To get it right: The BMS was connected to EACH cell originally (or only every second)? The Blade batteries and Teslas 4680 are worst from serviceability point of view - wich is zero. 🙈 Fortunately my Teslas have the NMC/NCA setup with 4 blocks and also CATL LFP cells. "Kind of" serviceable.
Hello Brendon , that intresting, might be that this capacitances on cells is part of active balancer ? My Atto 3 strangely has more balanced battery after DC charging 50 kW from 80 % to 100% with delta only 0.205 volt but when charged slow on AC delta usualy keeps higher - 0.300-0.350 V
Nah, the original BMS is long gone. The capacitance is generated internally of the cells themselves. The pass through connection that goes from one side of the cell to the other is in close proximity to the anode/cathode so it develops a slight voltage. Interesting that your cells are more in balance after DC charging though. I wonder if it's because the cooling system is run on DC charging but possibly not on AC.
Thanks for answering my question, when I charge battery from 80 to 100% battery management not cooling battery at all because temperature not reach 35 degrees, at SOC 80% BMS not allowing high current through battery so battery getting no more then 56 kw (440v 129a initially then dropping gradually) cooling starting a bit too late on this car, only when 35 degrees measured by temperature sensors.
It's LFP. I'm going with 14s for a few reasons. The 14s matches my current 12s NMC system. I have a spare 14s BMS lying around. And the 126 cells of the BYD pack divides nicely by 14
I'd like to know what material the center of the case under the battery is made of, how many layers it has, and if it's strong. If it's not too much trouble, Hope you'll show it.
If you mean the actual housing that the cells are sitting in (the bit between the cells and the road) it is aluminium. I won't be cutting it up to see it's internal structure but I'm pretty sure it's just a solid plate.
Thanks. I'm an automotive electrician. I've found the secret to not burning down the neighbourhood is to make an explosion so big there is nothing left to burn 😁.
What will the rewired pack voltage and kwh be? Will it still have active thermal management? Reckon manufactures or aftermarket should provide vechile to grid, given the difficulty in repurposing the battery at end of life, assuming you have the space to store the bomb😂
Yes I thought the blade battery pack would have been very serviceable. It annoying that a battery pack would need to be trashed because of a few bad cells. It certainly puts me off the idea of owning a EV.
Because my current battery is 12s of NVM cells which gives me ≈44V. Also there are 126 cells in the pack and if I cut it into lots of 15 or 16 I would have cells left over that would be wasted
@@Brendon_M I understand you , is the system work fine with you , with no problems ? Another question , how the bms can read 44 volt as a full battery ??? , what about the cut volt and charge volt and float volt ????
Looking at all of this ( great work btw) the conclusion is: If your Ev gets older and is out of warranty and something in there breaks, it's totaled. You always have to change the whole pack. Not even a cell has to be bad. Its enough when one single electronic part of the BMS fails. Looking at this the BMS is much more complex then I thought.
Thanks, though I'd be hesitant to call this butchery "great work"😆
Well first this is a home tear down.
If you watch a modern mobile phone tear down, you need the right equipment to break them down.
You will need a heated table to activate the sealer, and solvents to remove the foam fillers.
There is always a trade off between repairability and reliability.
For you to have a waterproof battery pack that can survive 300k km of abuse on poor quality roads, it's going to be assembled in a way that is going to constrain vibrations and contain water ingress.
Great work!!! This battery seems very robust and well made 👍👍👍
Thanks
Hi just watched your video after cutting battery how do you connect to cells ?
I did dodgy bolted on eyelets. I'm not really happy with the connection but each string of cells will see less than 10A so it should be okay
Very interesting work! 👍
To get it right: The BMS was connected to EACH cell originally (or only every second)? The Blade batteries and Teslas 4680 are worst from serviceability point of view - wich is zero. 🙈
Fortunately my Teslas have the NMC/NCA setup with 4 blocks and also CATL LFP cells. "Kind of" serviceable.
Every cell was connected to the original BMS
Is this have active liquid cooling system?
It has refrigerant cooler directly on top of the cells
really hard work to do.
Thanks, it actually took less time than I was expecting. Still a long time, just less time.
Hello Brendon , that intresting, might be that this capacitances on cells is part of active balancer ? My Atto 3 strangely has more balanced battery after DC charging 50 kW from 80 % to 100% with delta only 0.205 volt but when charged slow on AC delta usualy keeps higher - 0.300-0.350 V
Nah, the original BMS is long gone. The capacitance is generated internally of the cells themselves. The pass through connection that goes from one side of the cell to the other is in close proximity to the anode/cathode so it develops a slight voltage.
Interesting that your cells are more in balance after DC charging though. I wonder if it's because the cooling system is run on DC charging but possibly not on AC.
Thanks for answering my question, when I charge battery from 80 to 100% battery management not cooling battery at all because temperature not reach 35 degrees, at SOC 80% BMS not allowing high current through battery so battery getting no more then 56 kw (440v 129a initially then dropping gradually) cooling starting a bit too late on this car, only when 35 degrees measured by temperature sensors.
This battery gets hot enough to activate cooling system also when AC charging from low SOC like from 4-8%
I am wondering why 14 and 16S?is this LFP or NMC chemistry?
It's LFP. I'm going with 14s for a few reasons.
The 14s matches my current 12s NMC system.
I have a spare 14s BMS lying around.
And the 126 cells of the BYD pack divides nicely by 14
@@Brendon_M I see. Based on your current realities, the choice of 14S is very logical.
Olá amigo parabéns pelo video posso converter uma bateria assim para usad em 48v sistema Offgrid.
If you plan on making a 48V battery then you should avoid the BYD battery. They are too difficult to work with.
I'd like to know what material the center of the case under the battery is made of, how many layers it has, and if it's strong. If it's not too much trouble, Hope you'll show it.
If you mean the actual housing that the cells are sitting in (the bit between the cells and the road) it is aluminium. I won't be cutting it up to see it's internal structure but I'm pretty sure it's just a solid plate.
Don't cut, dangerous
Oh! I expected the blade battery cells was easier to take apart 😢😢
Me too, it's made my plans of reusing this pack a lot more difficult. I'll get there in the end but it won't look pretty.
@@Brendon_M Also it make difficult to repair...
@@joanllorente7589 yeah, I'd argue it's impossible to repair/replace a single cell or even a group of cells
@@Brendon_M ooops I missed it.
Fortunately,It is very safe battery.
Yes, the stable chemistry certainly helps here but I easily could have caused a fire anyway
the metal case of each lifepo4 cell is powered too; having physical contact of these metal case is a bad short
Not in this case (pun intended). The cell terminals are not galvanically connected to the case.
Nice work, what's your day job? I think i would burn down the neighbourhood if i attempted this 😂
Thanks. I'm an automotive electrician.
I've found the secret to not burning down the neighbourhood is to make an explosion so big there is nothing left to burn 😁.
What will the rewired pack voltage and kwh be? Will it still have active thermal management? Reckon manufactures or aftermarket should provide vechile to grid, given the difficulty in repurposing the battery at end of life, assuming you have the space to store the bomb😂
@@andrewlovelock3171 it'll end up 44V and 1350Ah (60kWh). Active cooling will go but it's not going to be needed. The pack will not even see 0.1C
Cool, it's good to see things repurposed. Looking forward to more quality content👌
@@Brendon_M Where are you based mate?
Very Poor Serviceability. Not worth spending time replacing the parts.
Yes I thought the blade battery pack would have been very serviceable. It annoying that a battery pack would need to be trashed because of a few bad cells. It certainly puts me off the idea of owning a EV.
Come to part3, better get educated in electrical engineering......no more mechanic required
What a horrendous design for a battery pack, obviously not repairable.
crash =total lost
why you divide it 14 cells its give you 44.8 volts . if you make it 15 cells its will give you exactly 48 volts ???????
Because my current battery is 12s of NVM cells which gives me ≈44V.
Also there are 126 cells in the pack and if I cut it into lots of 15 or 16 I would have cells left over that would be wasted
@@Brendon_M I understand you , is the system work fine with you , with no problems ?
Another question , how the bms can read 44 volt as a full battery ??? , what about the cut volt and charge volt and float volt ????
My BMS is programmable so I just set the number of cells and the upper and lower voltage limits
hello, I want to buy online software for BYD EV and its device for diagnosis faults, can you help me or connect me to someone who can help me?
schematics please