A great demonstration and such a great result without lowering the crotch. Another good idea that is so useful for pants fitting because it can be quite frustrating to "work out the wrinkles".
Thanks! ...It can be frustrating to work out the wrinkles... That's why I'm spending so much more time working with a single leg muslin to get the front/back leg balanced by draping it from a separate waistband. This significantly reduces the amount of "traditional adjustments you may need ... Like scooping! Thanks for watching
Very nice. I was wondering how the comfort would be after a crotch scoop, but after seeing the bottom line you drew I can see a nicer fit and a completely upgraded look. Whoo hoo for fit tip tuesday’s !👍👍👍👍
Scooping creates more room inside to sit down... as long as you have enough ease across the full hip things will be more comfortable! Thanks for watching
Interesting. It’s been quite a fascinating journey for me, sort of marrying TDCO with traditional pant fitting techniques. TDCO has changed a lot for me, giving me a solid starting place which resolves almost all of my fitting issues, but it’s always good to have ALL the tools in my technique toolbox.
:) I REALLY wanted TDCO to be the magic technique it seemed to be before I started working with it. Now I'm right were you are .... Using TDCO to balance the front/back leg to smooth the wrinkles and get the hem parallel to the floor really does eliminate many of the traditional pants fitting measurements and adjustments that I would usually need to fit pants... It's a total game changer :)) That's why my "new" pants fitting process is called "The Whole Scoop~ Multi-Method Pants Fitting ...Thanks for fitting along with me!
:) If you're not sure where to remove the excess fabric... use a big basting stitch so you can try different things. (That's one of the nice things about "scooping"... you can try different things until you get the result you're looking for. ...And, if you can't scoop the problem away, at least you still have a fit muslin to work it out with! Thanks for fitting along with me
This is exactly what I have to do! Thank you for explaining it so clearly, and now I understand why it works and that I might need to do just a bit more scooping the back vertical for more horizontal room. Sort of counterintuitive, but I get it now. Thanks
So pleased I have found your channel. You are great at explaining a difficult subject. Can I ask if you think the usual stages of pant construction ( the crotch seam being the last seam to sew) is important. I have noticed that RTW does not follow the normal home sewing procedure. Does it make a difference please?
I'm so happy you found my channel too! It depends on what kind of pants I'm making... If I'm putting in a front fly zipper, I sew front pockets, front fly/front crotch... Then back crotch... Finally side and inseams. If I'm making pull-on pants I sew side and inseams to make a right and left leg tube. Then I put on inside the other (right sides together) and sew the crotch curve. Hope that helps, thanks for watching
Scooping the back of the crotch does take away from the ease of the pants at the level...Let the side seams out if they feel snug. (If you're fitting pants, having extra fitting allowances to let things out is super helpful) Hope this helps, thanks for watching
How do you know what the slant of the straight part of the crotch curve should be? And what wrinkles indicate that it needs to either be more or less slanted?
The angle of the base of the crotch is determined by where the curve of your butt is vs where the your front crotch curve is. As you fit your single leg muslin, you'll be able to pull up from the waist until the crotch is in position in the back. If the crotch curve agrees with your shape, the front crotch will be in a good position too. If the crotch does not agree with you, you may need to scoop the back and or fill in or pickup the front crotch. (As shown here ua-cam.com/video/WflHfYM3jcs/v-deo.html and here ua-cam.com/video/WNBL-m6ABJU/v-deo.html Hope this helps!
I think this might work for me too. As a guess, about how much was the seam allowance increased at the widest point of the scoop? What pattern are you using? Thanks for the helpful video!
Happy to hear! I think the widest point in the scoop is approximately 1/2" ...and I'm not sure which pants pattern Jean was using. That's not so important for fitting because it will be different depending on your shape and measurements! Thanks for fitting along with me
So, if im understanding you correctly - is the picking up of the extra room at the horizontal, aka the bias which will also creates more movement naturally in the fabric, rather than the horizontal totally different. I assume this problem is different to that of a hungry bum? Pants fitting is my genuine nemesis!
Scooping the back of the crotch curve vs. scooping or lowering the base of the crotch curve does two different things. Scooping the back of the crotch curve creates a longer crotch wedge without adding to the inseam. It doesn't remove fabric under the butt. Scooping down to lower the base of the crotch curve picks up fabric under the butt and lengthens the rise a little bit. The cool thing is that you can try both versions of the scoop if you're not sure which might help. Baste the new scoop and see if it improves the fit... If it doesn't, take it out and try it the other way. Thanks for watching
What she did got rid of the excess fabric under her butt, but there are still diagonal lines at the back legs. If she had scooped a little lower, maybe the diagonal lines would have disappeared.
:) Those wrinkles come and go depending on how she is standing and moving. It's true that you can keep smoothing the back of your pants into perfection... But they might not be as comfortable to sit and walk in because you need a little bit of excess length when you're standing ...so when you sit down the pants have length to grow with your behind. Thanks for fitting along with me
That's a great question. If you're in the "muslin fitting stage", having extra safety seam allowances will allow you to let them out if you need to. In this case, these pants were already sewn up in fashion fabric. I don't think Jean needed to let out the side seams (It was a very small amount that was removed across the fullest hip). ...Thanks for fitting along with me
Fantastic lesson. How awesome that the lady was willing to share her photos. It puts everything into perspective! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! ...Jean is awesome, I'm very grateful for my FB Group members for sharing their process and photos!
A great demonstration and such a great result without lowering the crotch. Another good idea that is so useful for pants fitting because it can be quite frustrating to "work out the wrinkles".
Thanks! ...It can be frustrating to work out the wrinkles... That's why I'm spending so much more time working with a single leg muslin to get the front/back leg balanced by draping it from a separate waistband. This significantly reduces the amount of "traditional adjustments you may need ... Like scooping! Thanks for watching
Wow! I would never have thought that the pants were salvageable. I'm new to pant fitting and I find this so encouraging. Thank you. B
Glad this was helpful.... Thanks for fitting along with me
Very nice. I was wondering how the comfort would be after a crotch scoop, but after seeing the bottom line you drew I can see a nicer fit and a completely upgraded look. Whoo hoo for fit tip tuesday’s !👍👍👍👍
Scooping creates more room inside to sit down... as long as you have enough ease across the full hip things will be more comfortable! Thanks for watching
Interesting. It’s been quite a fascinating journey for me, sort of marrying TDCO with traditional pant fitting techniques. TDCO has changed a lot for me, giving me a solid starting place which resolves almost all of my fitting issues, but it’s always good to have ALL the tools in my technique toolbox.
:) I REALLY wanted TDCO to be the magic technique it seemed to be before I started working with it. Now I'm right were you are .... Using TDCO to balance the front/back leg to smooth the wrinkles and get the hem parallel to the floor really does eliminate many of the traditional pants fitting measurements and adjustments that I would usually need to fit pants... It's a total game changer :)) That's why my "new" pants fitting process is called "The Whole Scoop~ Multi-Method Pants Fitting ...Thanks for fitting along with me!
Such great info on pants fitting. Her final pants have such a tailored fit to them.
Thanks! I agree, she did such a nice job on them... Thanks for watching
The lady's pants look fantastic.
Thanks for a great tutorial
Thank!... and thank you for fitting along with me
On my gosh, that is incredible. They look fabulous and boy am I keeping track of this video
:) Thanks Kay... But really, we need to thank Jean... She figured this one out!! (I love my J Stern Designs Fit Sew Embroider Members
This is my go-to scoop. Resolves any issues I experience in the back crotch.
So happy to hear! Happy Pants Fitting!
That was explained brilliantly, thankyou . The trousers now look perfect
Thanks so much! Thank you for fitting along with me
Aha!! I love that explanation. Going to go see if I can get rid of those under butt wrinkles without feeling like the crotch hangs too low. ♥️
:) If you're not sure where to remove the excess fabric... use a big basting stitch so you can try different things. (That's one of the nice things about "scooping"... you can try different things until you get the result you're looking for. ...And, if you can't scoop the problem away, at least you still have a fit muslin to work it out with! Thanks for fitting along with me
Anxious to try this technique as I have a rather flat "back"!!!! Thanks for your excellent instructions and explanations!!!
:) Thanks so much... check out this tutorial for flat butts too! ua-cam.com/video/Xy1mByFNp2s/v-deo.html
This is exactly what I needed to keep my sanity! Thank you thank you thank you! Who knew you needed a PhD to sew pants!?
So happy this helps you! ... Pants do have a lot of moving parts to keep track of!! Thanks for fitting along with me
This is exactly what I have to do! Thank you for explaining it so clearly, and now I understand why it works and that I might need to do just a bit more scooping the back vertical for more horizontal room. Sort of counterintuitive, but I get it now. Thanks
:) It is counterintuitive... remove fabric for more room :) Thanks for fitting along with me
This was released just in time for exactly what I needed to figure out. Thanks!
Phewww... Happy to hear this was timely for you! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much for this! I can’t wait to try it to see if this is the solution to my back pants struggles 🙈
Hope it helps!! Thanks for fitting along with me
Fantastic info!!! Thank you 😊. Stay safe!
Thank you! Will do! ...and thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you! Sometimes I think I am close to a "breakthrough!" Lol. I would call this "crotch reshaping."
:)))) All Scooping is Crotch Reshaping!! ...to fit your shape!
Wow brilliant result, it’s all so clever !!
Thank you! Cheers!
Wow! Her pants fiitted totally different with a simple adjustment.
:) I know, so excited for her!! Thanks for watching
What a great lesson! Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you... Can't wait to try this ❤️
:) My pleasure... Thank you for fitting along with me!
Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
I am trying this one!
Yay! Good Luck & thank you for fitting along with me
Thanks so much!
You're welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me
So pleased I have found your channel. You are great at explaining a difficult subject. Can I ask if you think the usual stages of pant construction ( the crotch seam being the last seam to sew) is important. I have noticed that RTW does not follow the normal home sewing procedure. Does it make a difference please?
I'm so happy you found my channel too! It depends on what kind of pants I'm making... If I'm putting in a front fly zipper, I sew front pockets, front fly/front crotch... Then back crotch... Finally side and inseams. If I'm making pull-on pants I sew side and inseams to make a right and left leg tube. Then I put on inside the other (right sides together) and sew the crotch curve. Hope that helps, thanks for watching
Thanks for replying and so quickly too. I look forward to watching a lot more of your videos.@@JSternDesigns
(Linda) But does that scooping inside not take away from the front thigh space? Would never have thought to scoop inwards like that. Looks great!!
Scooping the back of the crotch does take away from the ease of the pants at the level...Let the side seams out if they feel snug. (If you're fitting pants, having extra fitting allowances to let things out is super helpful) Hope this helps, thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Thank you!!
How do you know what the slant of the straight part of the crotch curve should be? And what wrinkles indicate that it needs to either be more or less slanted?
The angle of the base of the crotch is determined by where the curve of your butt is vs where the your front crotch curve is. As you fit your single leg muslin, you'll be able to pull up from the waist until the crotch is in position in the back. If the crotch curve agrees with your shape, the front crotch will be in a good position too. If the crotch does not agree with you, you may need to scoop the back and or fill in or pickup the front crotch. (As shown here ua-cam.com/video/WflHfYM3jcs/v-deo.html and here ua-cam.com/video/WNBL-m6ABJU/v-deo.html Hope this helps!
I think this might work for me too. As a guess, about how much was the seam allowance increased at the widest point of the scoop? What pattern are you using? Thanks for the helpful video!
Happy to hear! I think the widest point in the scoop is approximately 1/2" ...and I'm not sure which pants pattern Jean was using. That's not so important for fitting because it will be different depending on your shape and measurements! Thanks for fitting along with me
So, if im understanding you correctly - is the picking up of the extra room at the horizontal, aka the bias which will also creates more movement naturally in the fabric, rather than the horizontal totally different. I assume this problem is different to that of a hungry bum? Pants fitting is my genuine nemesis!
Scooping the back of the crotch curve vs. scooping or lowering the base of the crotch curve does two different things. Scooping the back of the crotch curve creates a longer crotch wedge without adding to the inseam. It doesn't remove fabric under the butt. Scooping down to lower the base of the crotch curve picks up fabric under the butt and lengthens the rise a little bit. The cool thing is that you can try both versions of the scoop if you're not sure which might help. Baste the new scoop and see if it improves the fit... If it doesn't, take it out and try it the other way. Thanks for watching
What she did got rid of the excess fabric under her butt, but there are still diagonal lines at the back legs. If she had scooped a little lower, maybe the diagonal lines would have disappeared.
:) Those wrinkles come and go depending on how she is standing and moving. It's true that you can keep smoothing the back of your pants into perfection... But they might not be as comfortable to sit and walk in because you need a little bit of excess length when you're standing ...so when you sit down the pants have length to grow with your behind. Thanks for fitting along with me
Ok, I understand.
Do we need to add width back to the hip, if we scoop outward as you showed?
That's a great question. If you're in the "muslin fitting stage", having extra safety seam allowances will allow you to let them out if you need to. In this case, these pants were already sewn up in fashion fabric. I don't think Jean needed to let out the side seams (It was a very small amount that was removed across the fullest hip). ...Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesignsthanks for your reply!