I am wondering why you adjusted the paper pattern in that way rather than adding taping a piece of paper to the pattern at about the same point in the front crotch then tracing around that part of the muslin? This series has been amazing and I think this particular tip will be very useful to me because I do find the crotch is hanging way too low in just about every pair of pants I try to make and have mostly gotten them to eventually fit by having enormous seam allowances in every seam and then fussing with pinning the pieces together in various ways until I’m happy. This takes approximately an eternity, as you can imagine. Especially since I’m doing it all in myself by myself.
That's a great question! I adjust the pattern pieces this way to maintain the depth of the crotch... Notice how I extended the inseam up and then extended the crotch points to the inseam line. If you just fill in the front crotch with paper, you loose some of the depth. (Depending on how the muslin is fitting you, you may or may not need it... but you can sew deeper to get rid of it if you do!) I'm so happy this series has helped you! Thanks for fitting along with... good job fitting yourself by yourself!
Thanks so much Jennifer. I used TDCO and got great balance front and back as you describe here but I couldn’t understand why I have a big empty space at the front below my stomach. I do have a tummy but I think I could get a better fit now. Thanks very much.
Hi Jenn! Thank you for another great video. I have finally started working on my pant fitting using TDCO method. I have noticed I don’t have enough room at the bottom back and am wondering if the issue is due to the crotch curve not being low enough or if the back crotch needs to be lengthen at the bottom. You have said you think you are done with the videos for body specific issues. I wonder if you could cover the differences between these two issues; how do they present, how to test/measure if we have that issue where the base of the crotch is too short and can we do any adjustment to the patern before we do one leg muslin and anything else you have observed regarding that in you fitting sessions. Thanks again for great content.
:) Thanks... and get ready! TDCO Demystified Part 2 will address this issue! I'll show you when you may need to Scoop the back vs. fill in the front like I show here! Thanks for watching
Hi! I really don't remember which video my pants yolk comment was on. I finished the pants (my fit jogger with the back yolk option) and they fit really well. My fabric is 80% stretch for the print and 100% stretch for the contrast solid color waist band. Relaxed fit unelasticated cuff. Everything hangs nice. The generator did a good job at drafting the pattern for large inner thigh, big butt and I probably have the athletic front thigh for some style pants but I do think the inner thigh is the bigger fitting issue. The only thing the software didn't ask for was a distance from waist to hips. The waist band is the only thing that I need to adjust for being short waisted on the next go around. On the back should I take the length out of the waist band itself or the yolk piece or both?
Without seeing what's going on... Is the waistband sitting too high? If so, I would shorten the rise front and back below pocket detail by slashing and overlapping the pieces. If the waistband itself is too wide, I would shorten that. If you think the back yoke is too wide, you can shorten that a little bit. Let me know if this helps!
@JSternDesigns I can't see back there either. My parents didn't understand my question. I'll have to get my husband to take a photo so I can see. I think it's just that I don't need the yoga band so long with the yolk. Based on where I can feel the seam with my fingers. I think I selected the curved waist band. Maybe my curve and its curve don't match up the same. It feels like only the middle back needs some length off, and the sides and front are ok ish.
I really love this series its so helpful. Can you actually cut different sizes for back and front? I have a large stomach and a flat bottom, so for a pair of trousers Im looking to make based on my hip and waist size I need to cut a 6 for my hips but a 12 for my waist !! the back of trousers are always too baggy so can I cut a 6 for the back and a 12 for the front (and grade the back waist from the hip up?
I think it would be easier to cut a size 6 and add the fitting allowances along the waistline, side and inseams so you can let them out where you need to once you get into a fit muslin. The trouble with picking different sizes is that the side and inseams may be different lengths.. so you'd have to true those up to match. Also, for a flat bottom, a straighter CB crotch will help reduce the negative space inside the pants to reduce bagginess! Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks for the information. Can you direct me to one of your videos that explains more about the knee problem you mentioned at the 6:24 time mark. I just finished a pair of pants that hang correct when standing but when I sit down the fabric twist at the knee.
:) My Pleasure... Raising the front rise is what I show how to do in this video. Here's another tutorial explaining it and fixing it by picking up the front crotch. This may work for you too. ua-cam.com/video/MLcVycwlcvA/v-deo.html
Thank you! and I love it that you want to make pants! I really think starting with a separate fitting waistband and a single leg muslin is the best way to go. Maybe watch my trouble shooting series for pants fitting. These 4 videos show how to pick sizes, prep pattern, mark muslin and then sew it. Here's a link to the first video ua-cam.com/video/29iAeDLmvAQ/v-deo.html Keep me posted if you need help! Thanks for watching
I have a belly but not all the way down to zipper area & that’s where I have to make adjustment ! Most all of my blue jeans & capris need altering there I hate for them to pucker , some I’ve altered in the butt area too & it’s worked for me . I’m going to try this method , I don’t quite understand maybe if I go over the video again it’ll sink in !
:) Watch it again... while wearing your single leg muslin. You will be able to see how much you need to pick up or fill in the front crotch :) Thanks for fitting along with me
This is very helpful perspective. I once saw a tutorial that suggested making a template of your particular "J" (crotch) curve to carry from pattern to pattern once you have it determined. Any thoughts on doing this?
...It's true that your well fitting crotch shape will be similar from pattern to pattern... but, don't try to copy it onto another pant pattern... The style of the pant changes the length of the crotch extensions, It will be easier for you to really spend some time in front of a two mirror set-up, practicing fitting the muslin from the waistline cf/cb and then off to the side seams.... When you get that figured out, you'll be able to fit any pant pattern without a lot of hassle. :) Thanks for fitting along with me~
This was very helpful information. Also the second method of the presser foot worked perfect on my machine. I even tried it on my brother manual and it worked fantastic. I plan on buying a second one. A tip though. I think I had the screw too left & loose and yes the screw fell out and bounced so I’ve learned when I quit sewing for the day to turn the screw to the right & tighten it down just a bit.
Did I miss how you determined how much to fill in? Your sample was 1/2”, and it was obvious because you were working from a model crotch curve (the gap between pattern and actual crotch could be measured). But, on the body, how could that volume be determined? Is it related to the volume you could ‘pleat out’ in the first solution? Or some other mechanism?
If you're working with the TDCO method, starting with a single leg muslin... You can actually see how much the front crotch curve needs to be raised by measuring the gap between the stitching line and your body. Hope this helps Thanks for watcihng
You are so good at showing how to do the adjustments, thanks again!🙏
Thank you for the kind words... and for fitting along with me!
Thank you, first technical yet clear videos about this topic!
Thank you so much!! and thank you for fitting along with me :)
Lots of good info, this will need a full replay.
Thanks Pat!
Thank you! This is definitely one of the videos I needed.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
Very cool Jen. Thank you for sharing this TDCO adjustment. Everything always makes so much sense after you show us your adjustment method.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
Sooooooo helpful. Thank you! The crotch-curve-mist is clearing finally 😅
So happy this helps you! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great job Jennifer! Thank you for this video!
You are so welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me!!!
That’s so awesome 👏
Thanks so much!
I am wondering why you adjusted the paper pattern in that way rather than adding taping a piece of paper to the pattern at about the same point in the front crotch then tracing around that part of the muslin?
This series has been amazing and I think this particular tip will be very useful to me because I do find the crotch is hanging way too low in just about every pair of pants I try to make and have mostly gotten them to eventually fit by having enormous seam allowances in every seam and then fussing with pinning the pieces together in various ways until I’m happy. This takes approximately an eternity, as you can imagine. Especially since I’m doing it all in myself by myself.
That's a great question! I adjust the pattern pieces this way to maintain the depth of the crotch... Notice how I extended the inseam up and then extended the crotch points to the inseam line. If you just fill in the front crotch with paper, you loose some of the depth. (Depending on how the muslin is fitting you, you may or may not need it... but you can sew deeper to get rid of it if you do!) I'm so happy this series has helped you! Thanks for fitting along with... good job fitting yourself by yourself!
Good morning from Missouri!
Morning! :)
Thanks so much Jennifer. I used TDCO and got great balance front and back as you describe here but I couldn’t understand why I have a big empty space at the front below my stomach. I do have a tummy but I think I could get a better fit now. Thanks very much.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
This was excellent! Thank you!!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for fitting along with me
Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Jenn! Thank you for another great video. I have finally started working on my pant fitting using TDCO method. I have noticed I don’t have enough room at the bottom back and am wondering if the issue is due to the crotch curve not being low enough or if the back crotch needs to be lengthen at the bottom. You have said you think you are done with the videos for body specific issues. I wonder if you could cover the differences between these two issues; how do they present, how to test/measure if we have that issue where the base of the crotch is too short and can we do any adjustment to the patern before we do one leg muslin and anything else you have observed regarding that in you fitting sessions.
Thanks again for great content.
:) Thanks... and get ready! TDCO Demystified Part 2 will address this issue! I'll show you when you may need to Scoop the back vs. fill in the front like I show here! Thanks for watching
Hi! I really don't remember which video my pants yolk comment was on. I finished the pants (my fit jogger with the back yolk option) and they fit really well. My fabric is 80% stretch for the print and 100% stretch for the contrast solid color waist band. Relaxed fit unelasticated cuff. Everything hangs nice. The generator did a good job at drafting the pattern for large inner thigh, big butt and I probably have the athletic front thigh for some style pants but I do think the inner thigh is the bigger fitting issue. The only thing the software didn't ask for was a distance from waist to hips. The waist band is the only thing that I need to adjust for being short waisted on the next go around. On the back should I take the length out of the waist band itself or the yolk piece or both?
Without seeing what's going on... Is the waistband sitting too high? If so, I would shorten the rise front and back below pocket detail by slashing and overlapping the pieces. If the waistband itself is too wide, I would shorten that. If you think the back yoke is too wide, you can shorten that a little bit. Let me know if this helps!
@JSternDesigns I can't see back there either. My parents didn't understand my question. I'll have to get my husband to take a photo so I can see. I think it's just that I don't need the yoga band so long with the yolk. Based on where I can feel the seam with my fingers. I think I selected the curved waist band. Maybe my curve and its curve don't match up the same. It feels like only the middle back needs some length off, and the sides and front are ok ish.
If the waistband is just too high at CB, you can trim off the length at CB and blend back to 0 at the side seams along the top of the legs :)
I really love this series its so helpful. Can you actually cut different sizes for back and front? I have a large stomach and a flat bottom, so for a pair of trousers Im looking to make based on my hip and waist size I need to cut a 6 for my hips but a 12 for my waist !! the back of trousers are always too baggy so can I cut a 6 for the back and a 12 for the front (and grade the back waist from the hip up?
I think it would be easier to cut a size 6 and add the fitting allowances along the waistline, side and inseams so you can let them out where you need to once you get into a fit muslin. The trouble with picking different sizes is that the side and inseams may be different lengths.. so you'd have to true those up to match. Also, for a flat bottom, a straighter CB crotch will help reduce the negative space inside the pants to reduce bagginess! Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks for the information. Can you direct me to one of your videos that explains more about the knee problem you mentioned at the 6:24 time mark. I just finished a pair of pants that hang correct when standing but when I sit down the fabric twist at the knee.
:) My Pleasure... Raising the front rise is what I show how to do in this video. Here's another tutorial explaining it and fixing it by picking up the front crotch. This may work for you too. ua-cam.com/video/MLcVycwlcvA/v-deo.html
thank you@@JSternDesigns
I love watching your videos even though I have never sewn pants 😂 Do you have a video that is a good place to start with pants fitting?
Thank you! and I love it that you want to make pants! I really think starting with a separate fitting waistband and a single leg muslin is the best way to go. Maybe watch my trouble shooting series for pants fitting. These 4 videos show how to pick sizes, prep pattern, mark muslin and then sew it. Here's a link to the first video ua-cam.com/video/29iAeDLmvAQ/v-deo.html Keep me posted if you need help! Thanks for watching
I have a belly but not all the way down to zipper area & that’s where I have to make adjustment ! Most all of my blue jeans & capris need altering there I hate for them to pucker , some I’ve altered in the butt area too & it’s worked for me . I’m going to try this method , I don’t quite understand maybe if I go over the video again it’ll sink in !
:) Watch it again... while wearing your single leg muslin. You will be able to see how much you need to pick up or fill in the front crotch :) Thanks for fitting along with me
You are a genius
Thanks Kay!
This is very helpful perspective. I once saw a tutorial that suggested making a template of your particular "J" (crotch) curve to carry from pattern to pattern once you have it determined. Any thoughts on doing this?
...It's true that your well fitting crotch shape will be similar from pattern to pattern... but, don't try to copy it onto another pant pattern... The style of the pant changes the length of the crotch extensions, It will be easier for you to really spend some time in front of a two mirror set-up, practicing fitting the muslin from the waistline cf/cb and then off to the side seams.... When you get that figured out, you'll be able to fit any pant pattern without a lot of hassle. :) Thanks for fitting along with me~
Where did the share button go?
hum.... :))))
This was very helpful information. Also the second method of the presser foot worked perfect on my machine. I even tried it on my brother manual and it worked fantastic. I plan on buying a second one. A tip though. I think I had the screw too left & loose and yes the screw fell out and bounced so I’ve learned when I quit sewing for the day to turn the screw to the right & tighten it down just a bit.
That's a great tip! Thank you for sharing... Also, happy this helps too, thanks for watching
Did I miss how you determined how much to fill in? Your sample was 1/2”, and it was obvious because you were working from a model crotch curve (the gap between pattern and actual crotch could be measured). But, on the body, how could that volume be determined? Is it related to the volume you could ‘pleat out’ in the first solution? Or some other mechanism?
If you're working with the TDCO method, starting with a single leg muslin... You can actually see how much the front crotch curve needs to be raised by measuring the gap between the stitching line and your body. Hope this helps Thanks for watcihng
I found the share button😂
:))))