Man... didn't you hear me?? I was yelling as hard as I could... "THE SPRNG!!! THE SPRING!!!"" :p I am glad you got it sorted. This is really one amazing restoration that every time got me at the edge of my seat.
Great job. I see most practical inconveniences when we go with such a job. You didn't miss to show up some difficulties we always face. I've never seen such detailed work. Once I glade to you to such detailed vidio.
When you said, “I hope I didn’t forget anything”, I soon realized you had interjected some excellent foreshadowing into this video Also, it’s easier to leave the rod that goes into the master cylinder off until you have everything set up. Finally, don’t forget your break pedal stop plate (and adjustment) when you do the final installation. Great video and keep them coming!
Hey there CT, I worked with a machine shop guy a few times and new brass bushings he'd put in dry ice for 10 minutes then install them. Then ream the inside to the correct inner diameter.
I'm on my 5th vintage outboard motor videos now. having a blast on them but if I had the room and money, I'd be doing a VW restore too. can't wait the see the window frame splice in. Just remember to test fit the window as you go. Tim
Oh, the agony of watching you assemble the pedal box while we could all see the spring sitting on the bench. I think the air would have been very blue if it were me.
I would suggest hone the bore on the pedal with a cylinder hone.They work pretty good.I use them to hone out wheel cylinders and master cylinders when they are rusty.The hone is made of some kind of stone material. And the good part is u can use it on a regular drill machine. Great video by the way.Keep up the good work.
The pin with the hole looks like it's meant to have a split pln to hold it in place. Was everyone else willing you to remember the spring when you were saying "hopefully I haven't forgotten anything"? 🤣
The great thing about this is that you’re learning and will be an expert by the time you tackle your other projects. You will handle them more swiftly and with confidence because you are now doing a great job and are very meticulous. Like others have said the Bentley manual and the Muir book are crucial references to have on the table next to you when putting things back together. On the new bushings I believe you had the right strategy; trimming them back little by little until they fit. Remember that when you change your clutch cable you have to take the pedal cluster out but the master cylinder stays in. This would’ve been a perfect opportunity to install the accelerator and clutch cables and be done with them. About the rear window I thought Mike Fn was sending you one for you to graft in?
Esta parte do pedal é um verdadeiro quebra cabeça, e muita articulação. Não tenho dúvida que está restauracao vai ser a melhor já vista no UA-cam, aliás já está sendo. Ótimo trabalho CT. 👏👏👏👏👏
It’s coming along CT! I suspect that it’ll be a drivable chassis shortly for you to see how things are fitting. Look forward to seeing the next step. Have a great week 👍🏻
Really enjoying your rebuild when you was putting the peddle back omg I was screaming at the tv I was like a mad English watching England in the euros the bleed nipple was the first thing then was shouting when you put peddle without the spring 😂😂😂
Super helpful video! Thanks. I’ve been watching videos about clusters getting ready to rebuild mine. My issue is the brake pedal won’t come back after pressing it. The part where you reinstalled the assembly and pumped the brake/push rod in the MC with no brake fluid pressure, and the pedal still returned to the normal position, convinced me that a rebuild of the assembly is what I need to do to get that pedal back after pressing it. Keep it up! 🎉
Well I cant say I have ever rebuilt a pedal assembly. usually I just clean them up grease them and they are fine. The KEY THING is to make sure you put the spacers in the napoleons hat for the master cylinder. There are sleeves that go in the hole that NEED TO BE THERE...if they are not and you have a panic stop you might find your brake master goes through the floor.
I have replaced pedal springs before. But usually I have several pedal assemblies laying around that I just find another one that is good. also replaced the Hook.....but not usually do a full rebuild. I prefer original rather than after market parts. So for instance if the spring is not broken I wont replace it. and if the bushings are not worn I keep them original. Just because the quality of parts is not the same.
There you go CT gettin’ er done. I guess that’s one way to learn. You can also take pictures before disassembly or refer to the Bentley manual. There might be pictures in there. 😂
Hey CT,I just have to say I appreciate and applaud how much you have progressed in the quality and content your videos ,pat yourself on the back! Best regards from Ireland.
Oh forgot to mention the spaces may seem to big because the fire wall is already crushed so you would have to figure out a way to pull it back apart. But if things work fine then you can just leave it but the spaces will stick out past the hole.
Installing the pedal cluster is far easier if you install the brake plunger after the petals are in the car, that way you don't have to mess with the master cylendar.
Boy what a nightmare that must have been! Yikes! I don’t think I would have had the patience to do such work! But great job CT! It looks and came out looking great!
Next time on the inside diameter fit up, try using a wheel cylinder hone. I've used them several times, especially when I might have a little detorsion from welding tubes together and having to put in a poly bushing. Just a suggestion..
Yay another update from ct !!!!!! Really enjoying this build dude also just started watching all of the videos of rusty I think it's 80 vids ?? Anyway I like this channel I really want to get a beetle one day
Im loving the videos and progress of your builds, would love to see you tackle a classic mini cooper. All the videos I've seen are time lapse ones. Your are way better 👍🤙
Excellent video CT :) also that going in right too all doing plus throttle pedal on cable goes in there speed clip hold spring like shape captail C circle has 2 teeth one top and one bottom if not available use Cotter pin for Shear Pins!
My late was Volkswagen mechanic and service manager at Volkswagen dealership he use a wheel cylinder hone to clean the pedals before pressing the new bushings in.
I was going to suggest putting the brass sleeves in the freezer to shrink them and the pedals in the oven to expand them, but those new sleeves just don't look like the right size. I'm sorry you seem to be getting a little aggravated, probably something else on your mind. It happens to me too.
You do need to get yourself a good snap ring pliers set, the pair you have will work in a pinch. On the small snap rings like that hold a finger from the hand in the center so you don't lose it. Press your bushing in. Thumbs up!
Good to see you back on the bug mate. It's years since I had my pedal assembly apart and now I'm glad - what a nightmare it all is. I don't know about those spacers inside the nap's hat, but something doesn't look right, does it? I'd seriously take some advice there mate. Can Mike Fn advise you? I don't know, but it looks like they're loose. Finally, a mechanic once cut a C shape into the top of my tunnel at the front, to create a hand-sized flap we could open up and get a hand in. It made every annoying, fiddly job you have to do down there ten times easier in the long term. It only looks unsightly 'til you get your carpet in ;-) Good luck!
Se você usar óleo penetrante para tirar um pino enferrujado, ajuda bastante, e se você manusear a marreta pegando mais próximo do fim do cabo da marreta a pancada será mais forte.
When you were trying to put the bushings in, i literally sat here screaming " torch the hole so the metal expands " xD
Man... didn't you hear me?? I was yelling as hard as I could... "THE SPRNG!!! THE SPRING!!!"" :p I am glad you got it sorted. This is really one amazing restoration that every time got me at the edge of my seat.
HAHA! Thanks man! I know it was right in front of me...I really appreciate that. =)
fortunately seems the VW Beatle's restoration is in process.
i love it and I'm restless to see the final results.
good job
You won't see the final results, he will get board with it and find a new project to start and not finish...
Great job. I see most practical inconveniences when we go with such a job. You didn't miss to show up some difficulties we always face. I've never seen such detailed work. Once I glade to you to such detailed vidio.
When you said, “I hope I didn’t forget anything”, I soon realized you had interjected some excellent foreshadowing into this video Also, it’s easier to leave the rod that goes into the master cylinder off until you have everything set up. Finally, don’t forget your break pedal stop plate (and adjustment) when you do the final installation. Great video and keep them coming!
Hey Jeff, it was right under my nose... =) Thanks for the tips.
Love the new cinematic styling!
25:30 The spring kept looking at you reproachfully and said "You forgot me" 😂
HAHA! =)
Hey there CT, I worked with a machine shop guy a few times and new brass bushings he'd put in dry ice for 10 minutes then install them. Then ream the inside to the correct inner diameter.
Hey Tim, I will try that next time. Thanks man! =)
I'm on my 5th vintage outboard motor videos now. having a blast on them but if I had the room and money, I'd be doing a VW restore too. can't wait the see the window frame splice in. Just remember to test fit the window as you go. Tim
Oh, the agony of watching you assemble the pedal box while we could all see the spring sitting on the bench. I think the air would have been very blue if it were me.
HAHA! I know...it was right in front of me... =)
I would suggest hone the bore on the pedal with a cylinder hone.They work pretty good.I use them to hone out wheel cylinders and master cylinders when they are rusty.The hone is made of some kind of stone material. And the good part is u can use it on a regular drill machine. Great video by the way.Keep up the good work.
I love this Beetle! It’s coming along so nice. I enjoy all the videos!
Any press fit or interference fit requires a freezer for the bushing and propane torch or heat gun.
The pin with the hole looks like it's meant to have a split pln to hold it in place. Was everyone else willing you to remember the spring when you were saying "hopefully I haven't forgotten anything"? 🤣
HAHA! Thanks man! =)
Use to have a 67 back in the late 80s.baby blue 356 wheels 100 HP engine and a stinger racing seats and more
You will have to remove everything again to fit the clunch Cable 🇧🇷🇧🇷
yes, this was a test fit.
The great thing about this is that you’re learning and will be an expert by the time you tackle your other projects. You will handle them more swiftly and with confidence because you are now doing a great job and are very meticulous. Like others have said the Bentley manual and the Muir book are crucial references to have on the table next to you when putting things back together.
On the new bushings I believe you had the right strategy; trimming them back little by little until they fit.
Remember that when you change your clutch cable you have to take the pedal cluster out but the master cylinder stays in. This would’ve been a perfect opportunity to install the accelerator and clutch cables and be done with them.
About the rear window I thought Mike Fn was sending you one for you to graft in?
Esta parte do pedal é um verdadeiro quebra cabeça, e muita articulação. Não tenho dúvida que está restauracao vai ser a melhor já vista no UA-cam, aliás já está sendo. Ótimo trabalho CT. 👏👏👏👏👏
Nice to see you comming forward with The 65 wv
It’s coming along CT! I suspect that it’ll be a drivable chassis shortly for you to see how things are fitting. Look forward to seeing the next step. Have a great week 👍🏻
Thanks Stew! Yes, I can't wait to take it for a spin. You as well my friend! =)
Amazing how much of a bear those old assemblies can be to get apart.
Really enjoying your rebuild when you was putting the peddle back omg I was screaming at the tv I was like a mad English watching England in the euros the bleed nipple was the first thing then was shouting when you put peddle without the spring 😂😂😂
Freeze the bushing and press into a heated up arm , them ream out clearance needed
Need to heat pedals & freeze bushings to ease assembly~
I will try that next time. Good idea.
Super helpful video! Thanks. I’ve been watching videos about clusters getting ready to rebuild mine. My issue is the brake pedal won’t come back after pressing it. The part where you reinstalled the assembly and pumped the brake/push rod in the MC with no brake fluid pressure, and the pedal still returned to the normal position, convinced me that a rebuild of the assembly is what I need to do to get that pedal back after pressing it. Keep it up! 🎉
If you put the bronze bush in the freezer for a while and heat up the part. The bush will just drop into place.
That grease fitting was like new , I wonder why I owned three bugs in my college years and didn't even know the pedals had a grease zert.
Well I cant say I have ever rebuilt a pedal assembly. usually I just clean them up grease them and they are fine. The KEY THING is to make sure you put the spacers in the napoleons hat for the master cylinder. There are sleeves that go in the hole that NEED TO BE THERE...if they are not and you have a panic stop you might find your brake master goes through the floor.
I have replaced pedal springs before. But usually I have several pedal assemblies laying around that I just find another one that is good. also replaced the Hook.....but not usually do a full rebuild. I prefer original rather than after market parts. So for instance if the spring is not broken I wont replace it. and if the bushings are not worn I keep them original. Just because the quality of parts is not the same.
Now I know why I have not replaced any of those busings.
yes, they don't fit...... =)
@@CTmoog yup like most aftermarket stuff
There you go CT gettin’ er done. I guess that’s one way to learn. You can also take pictures before disassembly or refer to the Bentley manual. There might be pictures in there. 😂
HAHA! manual...whats that...? =)
Hey CT,I just have to say I appreciate and applaud how much you have progressed in the quality and content your videos ,pat yourself on the back! Best regards from Ireland.
I like this build always waiting for the next episode
Thank you! =)
Way to much grease. Grease attracts dirt. Dirt wears out parts. Just my opinion.
I seriously agree with this he seems to put a lot of grease on all parts, he has to try a little dab will do you.
Oh forgot to mention the spaces may seem to big because the fire wall is already crushed so you would have to figure out a way to pull it back apart. But if things work fine then you can just leave it but the spaces will stick out past the hole.
Installing the pedal cluster is far easier if you install the brake plunger after the petals are in the car, that way you don't have to mess with the master cylendar.
You need to ream those out to fit the new sleeves. Good luck your doing fine
Before you dis-assemble try to take picture then,its easier to put it back together.
Boy what a nightmare that must have been! Yikes! I don’t think I would have had the patience to do such work! But great job CT! It looks and came out looking great!
Yes, that little sucker was a pain... =) Thank you!
Great work. Keep it coming. Tony from Ireland
Thanks Tony! 👍
Finally the last day of this week 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
I was yelling “Spring!” at my TV…sorry you couldn’t hear me….
Me too!
HAHA! It's like I didn't even see the spring.. =)
I thought I heard someone screaming! =)
Me to 😆
In the vice the bearing can crack. You take a piece of 2x4 put it on top and smack it one shot home.
Thanks! I will try that.
Great video really enjoy watching them I working on a resto on 66 these videos really help
Awesome! Thank you! =) Good luck on your 66. What color is it?
@@CTmoogIt’s was originally sea blue which is what I’m going back to mostly gray primer now
Great job, I've had a 63 standard bus, a 72 bay window bus, 72 camper 80 camper.
I owned a '69 VW. I was hollering at you the whole time to put the spring back on. I guess you did not hear me.
Next time on the inside diameter fit up, try using a wheel cylinder hone. I've used them several times, especially when I might have a little detorsion from welding tubes together and having to put in a poly bushing. Just a suggestion..
Yay another update from ct !!!!!! Really enjoying this build dude also just started watching all of the videos of rusty I think it's 80 vids ?? Anyway I like this channel I really want to get a beetle one day
Thanks Justin! =) The beetles are fun to work on! What year are you thinking about getting?
@@CTmoog not really sure ??? I was gonna ask you what year you think would be good I like the earlier ones from the 50s-70s
@@CTmoog I know a guy who's working on a 65 🤔 lol
Im loving the videos and progress of your builds, would love to see you tackle a classic mini cooper. All the videos I've seen are time lapse ones. Your are way better 👍🤙
Excellent video CT :) also that going in right too all doing plus throttle pedal on cable goes in there speed clip hold spring like shape captail C circle has 2 teeth one top and one bottom if not available use Cotter pin for Shear Pins!
My late was Volkswagen mechanic and service manager at Volkswagen dealership he use a wheel cylinder hone to clean the pedals before pressing the new bushings in.
Nice CT ! Live Life ! Straight Ahead !✌😎
Also make sure that the master cylinder push rod is adjusted to the factory adjustment so that u dont overstroke your piston in the master cylinder.
I was going to suggest putting the brass sleeves in the freezer to shrink them and the pedals in the oven to expand them, but those new sleeves just don't look like the right size. I'm sorry you seem to be getting a little aggravated, probably something else on your mind. It happens to me too.
You do need to get yourself a good snap ring pliers set, the pair you have will work in a pinch. On the small snap rings like that hold a finger from the hand in the center so you don't lose it. Press your bushing in. Thumbs up!
Thanks buddy! Good tip! =)
good stuff as allways
Oh Oh the sledge Hammer's back in town ...lmao ...those chisel took a Beaton...
HAHA! when in doubt break out the sledge hammer! =)
Nice to follow !
Thanks
Thank you! =)
There was a bracket or something that keeps the pedals from rotating too far toward the driver.
The small spring att the wire should be on the inside
Ya quiero verlo andar😍QUE MARAVILLOSO TRABAJO👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Well done, cool project.😊
Good to see you back on the bug mate. It's years since I had my pedal assembly apart and now I'm glad - what a nightmare it all is. I don't know about those spacers inside the nap's hat, but something doesn't look right, does it? I'd seriously take some advice there mate. Can Mike Fn advise you? I don't know, but it looks like they're loose.
Finally, a mechanic once cut a C shape into the top of my tunnel at the front, to create a hand-sized flap we could open up and get a hand in. It made every annoying, fiddly job you have to do down there ten times easier in the long term. It only looks unsightly 'til you get your carpet in ;-) Good luck!
really enjoy the VW build keep it going brother.
Thanks Terry! 👍
Saludos de Mexico
super job bravo
You should try the heat and quench technique like on Taryl fixes all
Muy bien me gusta mucho ver esta restauracion , seria fabuloso estar ahi ayudando yver hasta la terminacion.
Buen trabajo 👍
Did u finish with the front windshield?
Time to buy a decent micrometer and measure aftermarket stuff before using it. I mean, the quality of the parts being what it is...
Induction heater would be great for this
Good idea! =)
Bonsoir de France CT attention pour les bagues bronze pas de graisse simplement de l'huile
GOOD JOB❤
Se você usar óleo penetrante para tirar um pino enferrujado, ajuda bastante, e se você manusear a marreta pegando mais próximo do fim do cabo da marreta a pancada será mais forte.
the other end of the spring needs to be captured.
Heat the pedal to expand the hole, then you can slide the new bushes in.
@Ct, what happened to your parts washer?
Needs fluid changed.
there u did it.
CT wouldn’t a Haynes manual be a great companion? Sure you’d find it worth getting one.
Not an easy job doing brake assembly but project coming along nicely CT
I think you need a 22 mm bore tool
you for got the spring
I know.....it was right in front of me.... =)
I would put porsche 356 coupe body on that chassis. ;)
That would be cool! =)
Amazingly almost everything on a vw is hard to get loose!!!! Lol
Where did you get the parts from for the brakes? I cant hear properly and cant see the label
EVERYONE has a drift or punch. NEVER seen them for sale. Did they make all that we have in the 50's or am I just looking in the wrong place?
🙃
...... Even more difficult for a RHD. Much easier with the body off though.
I am at 30:00 and I see the spring on the table 🙂 What will happen?
those new ones you could possibly drill them out
😊😊😊
Thats a lotta work just to have brakes lol
Hey Joe! Yes it is! =)
⭐⭐
and with that VICE you could squeeze the snot out of the devil
Show 🇧🇷 🇧🇷 🇧🇷
All those tool boxes and no real punch set. What’s your mailing address, I’m gonna hook you up! Every mechanic needs a set of punches man.
🤗👍👏👏👏
Thank you! =)
@@CTmoog You are welcome 🌞
😃😃😃
Suggestion only
Use time lapse
As a whole video on paddles was boring
YOU NEED A NEW VISE
CT the spring, the spring, the sssss (it's a joke kkkk)
Ok
teruntuk,,,,, C, T,,, 220,,,,,,telah,,,,, lama,,,,,, merombak,,,,, suatu,,,,, mobil,,,, v,,w,,,,,, pertaya, an,,,,,, kapan,,,,,,, selesai,,,,,, bila,,,, 2,,,,tahun,,,,, lebih,,,, baik,,,,, tak,,,, tayang,,,,,,, mohon,,,, di,,,, teryemahkan,,,,, di,,,, artikan,,,, vs,,,, di,,,, sampaikan,,,,,,
You would of been better off to buy a new pedal assembly, rather than going to the trouble of ordering parts, and rebuilding the old one.
Quality of aftermarket replacements nowadays doesn’t even get close to OEM. Better to refurbish than to replace with inferior quality.