How To Level Your 3D Printer!!
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- We’re switching it up because hey, it’s the new year! Instead of our usual method of leveling the printer by using paper, we’re trying out an automatic bed leveler from our friend @FilamentFriday! Did ✨ magic ✨ happen? Let’s find out!
Links:
CHEP's Filament Friday Bed Leveler: amzn.to/3jse1c2
BL Touch Auto Bed Leveling System: amzn.to/3ibVfFI
PINDA Auto Bed Leveling System: amzn.to/3Ip3ucf
EZABL Bed Leveling Systems: b.link/EZABLBedLeveling
Cards:
Ender 3 V2 Unbox and Build: • Ender 3 V2 Unboxing an...
Top 5 Printers Under $500 2022: • The BEST Budget 3D Pri...
Ender 3 Maintenance: • How To Make Sure Your ...
Latest Prusaslicer Update: • PrusaSlicer's BEST New...
@FilamentFriday's Channel: / @filamentfriday
0:00 Intro
3:16 Setup
4:25 Leveling With CHEP's Tool
5:41 Comparing To Leveling With A Piece of Paper
9:32 Printing A Benchy To Test
11:42 Conclusion
13:47 Outro
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Save 💰 💰 on Zyltech Filament use code 3DM at checkout for sweet savings off your entire order: Zyltech.com code: 3DM
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Paper method will leave you 0.1 mm above the bed. The E-Leveler gets close to true zero. Glad it worked for you.
Worked like a charm and proved how much easier it is to use. It was perfect.
Old and busted, new hotness…one of my favorite quotes ever. Most people have no idea where it's from.
Right?!?
You might also mention that even with auto bed leveling (tramming) there’s a limit to how much it can compensate. I’ve found the Prusa Mini+ can only compensate about 0.2mm from spit to spot. Ideally you don’t want a maximum difference higher than that as a whole. If you ended up with a bed like that, as I did, try the silicone bed mod for the MK3 or Mini (they’re slightly different).
I do the 7x7 on the prusa, if it is more than 0.2mm between the points there is an issue. Yes, silicone or nyloc mod can be great if needed
awwww I thought this was going to be the video with you vs your brother. I've been looking forward to that.
soon :)
Me too!
soon ;)
@@3DMusketeers thank God it’s not Soon TM, that shit takes FOREVER!
I really dont have a date on it yet.. but soon is an answer lol. I have to get him out here first.
Yessssass.... Bring on the Ender upgrade videos!!! And thanks for this one too
Will get it added!
@@3DMusketeers my new best friend!!!
Glad we could help!
Paper! Definitely considering the CR touch though
Buy the legit BL Touch from Ant Clabs. Creality stole the design.
When I get my Hypercube going again, definite old school paper trick.
While I haven't tried this leveller yet, the cantilever bed flexes so much that I have to go off feel of the paper, proper resistance differs front to back.
A microswitch with a constant activating pressure would result in a horribly skewed first layer.
Yes the problem is the design. I plan to somewhat stiffen it up with the rebuild, but it won't get fixed completely, so paper it is.
The micro switch is a pretty light touch but I totally get it. Definitely work on stiffening up that frame!
Creality and any printer even with ABL need to be close to trammed. As prongATO stated it can't do the impossible. That is a big advantage to a three Z axis printer with individual motors and drivers. My Rat Rigs do an automatic tramming at the start of every print and get the 3 points within .02 mm across a 500 mm bed, it then builds a mesh 7x7. Almost perfect first layer every time.
very fair, it only does so much. Ones with octoprint can do MUCH more though, which is awesome!
Business focused videos please 🤞🏻
Can do!
Hmm. This newb is glad to have a prusa and auto bed leveling. Speaking of newb so the bumpyness on your brim to the benchy is wet filament? I suppose that means my asa filament, might have some wetness to it then. I'll have some bumpyness on the first layer like that if I've had a brim. At any rate definitely like this kind of video as it helps me know what I don't know as a actual problem.
It's not as bad as it looks. We have a light to make that bit able to be filmed. It's like little bubbles that have popped. That's what wet filament looks like.
So is there any reason to use the e-leveler with a printer like the sovol sv06 where there aren't any knobs to manually tighten? Or would we do the same but manually raise/lower the z axis until the corners are leveled?
No, the Sovol has an auto leveler and has no need for that tool.
I ordered one before my KP3SPROS1 arrived. Even though it's a small bed, tool is easy to use, and I don't have to waste a piece of paper, haha.
Glad it is working well!
Thanks for the video. I thought that with CHEPs tool, you had to set a z-off set to counter the thickness of the tool itself. Is that correct? I am thinking of one for my grandson ( I use paper, and as you say, its hard to describe how to judge it). I would also love to see you install auto bed leveling because that would be another possibility. Thanks as always.
nope not at all! It just works with his g code.
@3D Musketeers so just to clarify, was your Z-offset was set to 0.0 when you started using the e-leveler or had you already previously calibrated that using the paper method?
@@shanecaler1167 All set to 0, no previous leveling before the e-leveler. That machine is purely for youtube so if it is not in videos it is collecting dust.
damn! I have to admit the whole thing with the bed leveling wheels turns me off from enders, but that certainly makes it look a lot easier than normal. It goes from hell no to ......preferably not. lol
same.. Leveling sucks, we have plenty of options NOT to do it manually.
For me it was one of the main reasons I went with the Prusa Mini as my first printer
It is why I recommend it a ton!
I would love to see upgrade videos, but I need to get the basics before that
we have some basics videos out there already with more to come!
@@3DMusketeers awesome just subscribed to your channel so I’ll have a lot of catching up to do on what you have already
thanks!
When my parents were visiting and I made all those test prints for their car mirror I mentioned cleaning the bed with alcohol more than once. Every single time my mom is like what?!!?!? lol My dad got it the first time.
You should have made sure to clarify that it was IPA.
lol, if it works it works!
@@original_zurn0 I think that part she understood. lol
@@original_zurn0 IPA as in Indian Pale Ale? 😉
I'm a ABL with a proper bed mesh school.
same
It's like learning how to drive a manual transmission, once you have it you appreciate an automatic - makes your life so much easier.
especially in traffic!
@@woodwaker1 I'll never know, but I don't drive either anymore. EVs don't have separate gears and barely have what you would call a transmission.
EV's with a manual, that would be fun!
if the chep tool is too tight can't you just up the live-z setting?
if the bed isnt perpendicular to the hotend no, it wont work.
@@3DMusketeers I got the impression you thought it was too tight in all 4 corners though.At least initially. Later you changed your mind.
based on the paper method I thought it was, but nope, he has it right
@@3DMusketeers I think you're missing the question here.
You talk about the paper or chep tool being "right" because of the feel of the paper, as if the goal is to be a set distance instead of trammed. Z offset and level are two different variables.
The bed can be trimmed with 3mm from the bed to the nozzle. Then you make up for that distance with z offset.
You don't distinguish level from offset at all in this video.
Because it's not required. Cheps tool does not require an offset. You use the gcode he provides to use the leveler but after you level it, nothing else is needed.