Nicely done, Jason! You may know this already, but for all the viewers who don't know yet, I want to point out that the brushes of all Tamiya caps w/brushes are interchangeable! Meaning the brushes are not an integral part of the cap and can be easily taken out and switched around. That way you can have a smaller brush for your Tamiya cement AND keep the white cap! And you wouldn't have to explain that again in your next video 🙂 Cheers
Another excellent video! I really like your patient, and pragmatic approach and the fact that you include some of the "mistakes" makes your content more relatable. Some great tips in here and I look forward to seeing the painting and weathering. I have the Tiger 1 Big Box 2 (two kits and Michael Wittman figure) on preorder.
I love these videos that cover a kit's flaws and how to deal with them. Gorgeous Tiger I! I have the mission models bender as well as a Hold N Fold (which predated the MM one). The groove in the MM is designed to register the edge of a razor blade once the part is secure. I've never had any difficulty getting a crisp bend that way no matter the size of the PE.
I too have that old Mission Models photo-etch bender. Bought it I think back in 2006. Haven't used it nearly as much I anticipated when I bought it. Great model, great work constructing it. The zimmerit is no doubt the best I have seen to this point, be it molded on or aftermarket. I admire your skill with assembling small parts, and there are many on this kit. Look forward to seeing it painted & weathered
Been waiting for this video.!.Like the interruption by your cat and of course your cat wanted to see a Tiger.!Thanks for the upload a great build with good tips on this kit..🇬🇧👍
I bought all five Tiger kits, thanks for the info as I’ve just finished a Das Werk 1/16th Panzer III. The plastic seems to be the same, and I found the instructions to be diabolical.
Dragon's panther kits did have smart tracks, which had hollow guide horns so unless it's an issue peculiar to tiger tracks, then it certainly is possible to have a set of tracks with hollow guide horns.
I assure you, Testers glue, Contacta and Tamiya's standard glue are hot glues. They are melting the parts together. CA and PVA work the way you're suggesting.,
@@ChampionScaleModelling Hi. Thanks for the vid. Higher viscosity for white Tamiya but a slower drying time for a hot glue so ,as you say, it's good for large, flat surfaces, specially where thin will not penetrate to. Good for big seams like ship hulls. Solid result. Less volatile solvent/thinner in white hence white - green - light green smell progressively worse! Cheers. Matt.
This is a nice kit but probably not one for the novice. Its years since I built a Tiger 1 but I think I should revisit this subject as the kits have improved so much. I recently built the Takom Chieftain where all the track links were individual but without pins. They were a real PITA to do to get to look correct and the timing of the glue setting was critical, too soon and the came apart and too late and the track would not lay right. I think if I were to do it again I would drill out the end section of track to put a small metal pin in to hold the track and make it into a temporary workable track.
The Transmission cover is not suppose to hang over the edge like that. The front cover is a major F=UP! Suppose to match even with the lower hull. Am I wrong?
Sorry to be a pain but i am up to the tow copper cables and would like to ask how long you cut the cables before you fitted them to the eyes and what size drill did you use to open the holes up, many thanks.
I went with after-market tracks on this kit, as I ALWAYS lose track horns when I mount the tracks on the roadwheels. Frustrating, especially when they're eaten by the 'carpet monster'.
I don't buy Takom models anymore. They are not accurate and have bad fit of parts ! Dragon Otto Carius Tiger is a much better model ! But more expensive !
The problem you discuss about the seam lines, partling lines, and flash, those stem directly from the mold setup crew not getting the molds correctly aligned 90% of the time or more. Wear and tear on the molds can contribute, but, as these are new tools, that's not likely to be the culprit.
When I was making tank models back in the 60s, the only research available was the public library.
Nicely done, Jason! You may know this already, but for all the viewers who don't know yet, I want to point out that the brushes of all Tamiya caps w/brushes are interchangeable! Meaning the brushes are not an integral part of the cap and can be easily taken out and switched around. That way you can have a smaller brush for your Tamiya cement AND keep the white cap! And you wouldn't have to explain that again in your next video 🙂 Cheers
If these makers can develop fiddle-free tank tracks, they're got the world on their knees!
One of the best info builds i hav seen yet, Keep up the info like this on all your builds everyone will be watching your builds
Bought the triple big box...this video very timely 😂 greatly appreciated 🙏 very good tips cheers 🍻
Beautiful Tiger 🐅 👍
Great build, good to have one to follow pointers taken on board. Cheers
perfect tiger. Now i want this kit
Another excellent video! I really like your patient, and pragmatic approach and the fact that you include some of the "mistakes" makes your content more relatable. Some great tips in here and I look forward to seeing the painting and weathering. I have the Tiger 1 Big Box 2 (two kits and Michael Wittman figure) on preorder.
Imagine painting it and putting it in a diorama🤤
Excellent video mate
I love these videos that cover a kit's flaws and how to deal with them. Gorgeous Tiger I! I have the mission models bender as well as a Hold N Fold (which predated the MM one). The groove in the MM is designed to register the edge of a razor blade once the part is secure. I've never had any difficulty getting a crisp bend that way no matter the size of the PE.
Thanks for the advise, I will use all of it.👍👍
I too have that old Mission Models photo-etch bender. Bought it I think back in 2006. Haven't used it nearly as much I anticipated when I bought it. Great model, great work constructing it. The zimmerit is no doubt the best I have seen to this point, be it molded on or aftermarket. I admire your skill with assembling small parts, and there are many on this kit. Look forward to seeing it painted & weathered
Been waiting for this video.!.Like the interruption by your cat and of course your cat wanted to see a Tiger.!Thanks for the upload a great build with good tips on this kit..🇬🇧👍
I bought all five Tiger kits, thanks for the info as I’ve just finished a Das Werk 1/16th Panzer III. The plastic seems to be the same, and I found the instructions to be diabolical.
Great work and fantastic video! Very helpful
Dragon's panther kits did have smart tracks, which had hollow guide horns so unless it's an issue peculiar to tiger tracks, then it certainly is possible to have a set of tracks with hollow guide horns.
I assure you, Testers glue, Contacta and Tamiya's standard glue are hot glues. They are melting the parts together. CA and PVA work the way you're suggesting.,
I’m on unsteady ground with this! Maybe it is viscosity that is the issue, either way the white one works! 😉
@@ChampionScaleModelling Hi. Thanks for the vid. Higher viscosity for white Tamiya but a slower drying time for a hot glue so ,as you say, it's good for large, flat surfaces, specially where thin will not penetrate to. Good for big seams like ship hulls. Solid result.
Less volatile solvent/thinner in white hence white - green - light green smell progressively worse! Cheers. Matt.
Inspirational
This is a nice kit but probably not one for the novice. Its years since I built a Tiger 1 but I think I should revisit this subject as the kits have improved so much. I recently built the Takom Chieftain where all the track links were individual but without pins. They were a real PITA to do to get to look correct and the timing of the glue setting was critical, too soon and the came apart and too late and the track would not lay right. I think if I were to do it again I would drill out the end section of track to put a small metal pin in to hold the track and make it into a temporary workable track.
I have found that I will work with what I am given in the kit. Out of the box building perhaps.
You paint everything together? 🤔
The Transmission cover is not suppose to hang over the edge like that. The front cover is a major F=UP! Suppose to match even with the lower hull.
Am I wrong?
Nice video! Will there be a video covering the painting of this kit as well?
Yes, soon
Your getting the track wrong on the sprocket will help me to be more forgiving of my own mistakes. Thank you.
Sorry to be a pain but i am up to the tow copper cables and would like to ask how long you cut the cables before you fitted them to the eyes and what size drill did you use to open the holes up, many thanks.
I think it was 21cm, it is suggested in the instructions, drill bit I think was 1mm but try one that fits and open it up from that 👍
This model is inaccurate cuz the roadwheels have the wrong order for in-outside
I went with after-market tracks on this kit, as I ALWAYS lose track horns when I mount the tracks on the roadwheels. Frustrating, especially when they're eaten by the 'carpet monster'.
Based on the thumbnail... I think we have the same apron.
🤣
Dragon isn’t even the old Dragon…😂
🤣
I don't buy Takom models anymore. They are not accurate and have bad fit of parts ! Dragon Otto Carius Tiger is a much better model ! But more expensive !
Interesting take, how is the Takom kit less accurate than the Dragon one?
Pointless metal barrel.
Good job but Takom is 👎
The problem you discuss about the seam lines, partling lines, and flash, those stem directly from the mold setup crew not getting the molds correctly aligned 90% of the time or more. Wear and tear on the molds can contribute, but, as these are new tools, that's not likely to be the culprit.