Santa Fe 3.3L GDI with a rattle noise. And why I don't use engine flush.
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2022
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I change my oil in my wife 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe every 5,000 miles or 6 months with a High Quality Full Synthetic Motor Oil. I Bought the SUV with a little over 12,000 miles on it in 2015. Now I have over 111,000 miles on it and still runs like a clock. I chage the tranny fluid every 50,000 miles as well.
Is it the 4 cylinder? the v6 is the one that has all the problems haha
@@tylersanders8853 It's the V6 3.3L.
@@BOSS-xy8op Nice, i think a lot of dealerships will use engine flushes and will cause the chain tensioners to cease up or ware down faster. Engines dont need flushes. just regular maintenance👍
Nice video, i would like to see more of them! Thank you!
I run royal purple full synthetic oil in my wife's 2020 Sedona and change it every 5k miles just to avoid any sludge buildup to begin with. Engine runs like a champ. I also do a top end fuel system cleaning every 10k miles (run cleaner directly into the intake manifold with the engine running) to keep the valves from clogging up. Hopefully those two things will keep this engine running for a long time.
flushes don't cause leaks, if sludges doesn't break down and clogs something to fail. that could happen at any point, flush or no flush. a good flush actually that breaks the material down is actually oem recommended procedure. a flush will never cause a leak. a may dislodge a chunk currently holding a leak back. but that's it.
Engine flushes are fine as long as you change your oil often. Flushes do clean up the inside of your engine and you should do a double oil change when you flush anyways to get all the flush out.
The only flush you should ever be doing to your oil is called a regular interval oil change. The reason a lot of mechanics don’t recommend oil flushes is because they can cause leaks on older engines with bad seals, specifically when sludge is preventing leaks from occurring.
I agree. Even switching to a good synthetic oil with cleaning properties like Castrol Edge or mobil 1 will break up sludge chunks and cause issues sometimes. engine flush is just kerosene I think
Mechanic: it's my opinion.
Interpretation: FACT.
Don't do it. If you want it to last 1000 years change the oil every 6 months/5000ks. Flush is not the answer.
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I run a flush through motors that have heavy buildup because what else are you going to really do with it? Ideally never get it to that point but it does happen with people avoiding regular maintenance. But This is also the same reason I don't like Transmission flushes because they tend to do more harm than good on anything that hasn't been well maintained
So do the tensioners rely solely on oil pressure for the tension they provide, or is there a spring in there providing the tension and the oil is just there to lubricate the mechanism?
It is spring loaded but I find those springs aren't that strong and the oil pressure is suppose to provide constant pressure. I think where some people complaint about a rattling noise on start up but goes away after a few seconds.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Seems like a dubious design by Hyundai...any good reason why one can't rely just on spring pressure for all of the tensioning?
@@chrisfreemesser5707 that chain as it slacks and tighten is Able to overcome that spring tension. With no oil pressure the chain will rattle around and possibly jump timing. I always call guides and tensioner but they aren't covered cuz it's a "wear item". There have been times when just rotating engine by hand after timing it, it would just jump timing.
@@chrisfreemesser5707 If you only had a spring, the chain tensioner would be a lot more subject to 'chain harmonics' pushing the tensioner in and out and potentially letting the chain jump some teeth and go out of time. A spring is 'just' a spring, but the oil pressure acts as a spring AND a damper, which resists rapid movements. You can see what having only a spring would look like if you look at the spring loaded serpentine belt tensioner on an older car.. they sit there and bounce back and forth constantly because the belt itself is not actually moving smoothly, it's getting hit with power pulses from the crankshaft, and hooked to things that don't spin evenly either, like your piston pump ac compressor that has compression strokes just like an engine and spins 'lumpy' as well, etc. All these pulleys having different resistances at different points in their rotation makes the belt try to be 'wavy', and while the tensioner is supposed to mostly pull the waves out of it, you can still see them in the tensioner bouncing back and forth. On a chain if you allow almost any 'wave' at all you jump teeth. If you think about cracking a long whip, extension hose, garden hose etc and seeing the wave travel down the whip, if you curl that thing around a chain sprocket, what the wave does as its lifting the chain off the sprocket, is like the way a caterpillar 'walks'.. it's 'walking' the chain forward on the sprocket, which is 'jumping time' and then boom, bent valves. :P
Engine flush isn’t the issue. The design was flawed.
Sometime I do wish we have an "air injector" and get rid of all the heads, cams and timing stuff.
Going to electric vehicles we don't have to worry about camshafts and timing chains. Lol
@@theoffroadingmechanic I’m worrying that customer would drive a beater EV in the shop and battery pack start launch sequence when on the lift😵
Haven't seen a battery fire yet lol
@@theoffroadingmechanic Safety first! I hope you never bump into one!☺️
I got a 3.5... i hate it. I almost regret buying it but its the only set o wheels i got to get my ass to the wage dungeon. Its all good til its not 😂 by the way. You get a thumbs up. Cause im not that fkn brave 😂
Lol thank you.
I worked on one of those engines about 2 months ago, that same tensioner went out and caused the timing on the back head to go so far out it smashed the valves and broke a cam. I dont know what caused the tensioner to go out, maybe you're onto something with, the lack of maintenance with a deadheaded oil passage. I know this engine family has a few design issues, such as the head bolt threads pulling out of the block, maybe this is just another weak point. With the egine I worked on, the customer paid to have the head and timing components replaced, as well as all new timeserts in the head bolt holes in the block, talk about an expensive out of pocket repair.
I had a few where the vvt on the intake cam on bank 2 that runs the high pressure fuel pump would brake. Cam wasn't moving but the sprocket was was still spinning with the timing chain. Engine was running poorly. Also had the bolts back off on the vvt not the center bolt that holds the sprocket to the cam, the bolts that hold the vvt assembly together and took out the timing cover.
@@theoffroadingmechanic Thats just crazy. I really hope I don't run into any issues like that. Good job on diagnosing the broken vvt. I know too many mechanics that would have just thrown spark plugs at it and been surprised when it still wasn't fixed.
@@314computernerd if I remember it had codes for fuel pressure to low, cam and crank correlation, and cylinder 2,4 and 6 misfire all on bank 2 And I was like no way that intake cam isn't spinning but sure enough pop the valve cover off and cam wasn't spinning. Would of made such a good video. 😆
2017 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3 - I have a start up rattle for about a second or two. Wondering if this tensioner is the problem.
There are also other causes for the rattle noise on start up on the 3.3l like the vvt actuator as well. Just need to check with a stethoscope to see if it is from the back bank or the front bank. I have seen the intake vvt gear just completely grenade itself and take out the timing cover or the intake gear itself isn't connected to the cam shaft anymore but the car still runs but misfires. The chain still spins the gear where the cam stayed stationary.
@@theoffroadingmechanic I think I have this exact issue. Had a bad rattle on startup for about a year. Now I have 2-4-6 misfire, crank sensor code and random clunking in the valve cover. Hoping it’s just the tensioners but I’m leaning towards vvt because the of the whole bank of misfires and noise in the valve cover
Why is there dead ends on oil tubes? Seems a bad idea. How is that ever changed?
I would make that transfer tube bigger but there also has to have something to resist the flow of oil to create pressure for those tensioners. Regular oil changes are important.
While it is a deadish end and has low flow (hence the sludge piling up), it's not completely sealed. The tensioner design likely lets a small amount of oil blow past the internal piston.
Still though, it seems that wasn't enough to prevent sludge from building up in this case. Pretty bleh design tbh.