Never get tired of the humour! Your editing skills are getting good Mr Foreman. You must have had some time on your hands over your winter. Well done. Looking forward to the first start.
Thanks Phil, like I said when those handy brackets just turn up there's a run of luck happening and a few lottery tickets should be purchased. One never knows!
You're a clever fella in many, diverse ways. Thank you once again for sharing your work and innovation with us. It's a terrific channel that you have created. We only see a tiny fraction of all the work involved. Please know that all of it is appreciated, even if unseen. Bravo mate, Bravo!
I always enjoy, indeed look forward to your videos but watching this episode reminded me of my throttle linkage head scratching. I have a 3 litre ford V6 in my series one and the weber linkage on the carb is via cable but the carb throttle lever is only 1” long. Using a 2” long lever on the pedal end resulted in the throttle either being on or off. This frightened a lot of people especially in traffic not least me. My solution was a snail cam for the cable to roll around allowing a large pedal travel for a small amount of throttle initially and when the pedal was on full so was the throttle. Thanks Gavin for keeping us entertained.
The Disco has cams on the throttle body for the accelerator cable. I'll see how my first invention goes and consider a work around if it's no good. Tricky problem to solve.
Baffled and flumoxed .. oh the mechanical and linguistical enrichments you get from these series .. - enjoying this thoroughly - greetings from Flanders
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures : Flanders is the Flemish speaking part of Belgium. During the First World War, many young Australians died there on the battlefield and in the trenches. Really worth a visit..
For those who are swapping the original Solex PBI 32 to the more recent Weber 34 ICH, you need only to modify the throttle lever by some cut & welding and modify the angle of that lever, and reduce the height of the 90 degrees manifold/carburettor adaptor spacer, and remove the bakelite spacer. The Weber carburettor seems to have a better efficiency and slight lower fuel consumption compared to the original Solex. As you many times said, there are the "purists" vs the "pragmatists". That brawl is a never ending one. If you have an old Solex, but in desperate condition, keep it safe somewhere, one day there will be a genius who will create a pretty good overhaul kit to repair them. Cause the new Solex copy .... stinks. And finally, thank you Mr Foreman for this wonderful series. Go ahead, poor some fuel and life in this engine, and off you go to give us some thrill.
Another very entertaining video and admire the design / fabrication of the inlet adapter. Getting close your gonna have to find something else to do so we have more to look forward too.
I'm seeing me Wilms and Krikkit becoming crusty old sea dogs one day. We're having marital disputes over the size of the dream vessel if the ideas should ever come to pass. These plans may take a while to come to fruition but the Land Rovers will no doubt keep me occupied in the meantime.
There were some certainly vexing puzzles to be solved there. Loved the solution for the air filter. I wish I knew you had that problem to solve. I could have designed something for you, and 3D printed it. I've created similar one off custom parts for myself and friends for our vehicles. Looking forward to the next episode.
3D printing is a good idea. I mapped my creation out on paper and built it in a 3D program to see how it might fit together and of course used the model in the film. I remembered thinking "I wish it was that easy" and with the printers nowadays it probably is.
I get a little carried away at times. But they are fun. I built a monster for 'Beast Beneath the Bonnet' title sequence but kept messing up it's arm controls and it was taking too long. He's scraped for now but I'll find a use for him I'm sure.
LOL always fun to watch. Spent my morning re-wiring the Coaster trailer in anticipation of the truimphant return of its magnificent tow vehicle :) The Coaster is 36 years old and the trailer is 40 so not quite a venerable as the Landy.
That Coaster is awesome and it's age only adds to the charm. I think I may have told you already they were a popular tour vehicle in the N.T so I spend 6 or so years driving them. They are really good vehicles.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventuresOurs does cause the odd (expensive) headache but when it works it is great to tour in. Looking forward to seeing it without all the crumpled metal on the passenger side :)
I was too fearful to try and replicate the original linkage setup as my bulkhead was modified for the V8 it might've added additional challenges. I'd like to see a RHD setup, the only other S1 I've seen was Andy's truck featured in the film. What he managed to achieve was impressive.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures I think my 2a is very different for an S1, but if you want, I'll take some pics this weekend and ping them over (I have your email from when you gave me advice on the stuck reverse-gear issue)
You were doing so great until I saw you considering the minuscule air filter, No No No, my heart sank, but you redeemed yourself with the final result - alls right with the world again. I find these videos very encouraging. If I was smart enough, I would burn them onto a CD and keep them for posterity, or at least until I am in the nursing home with time to watch them again. Work and Life are keeping me from tinkering in the garage at the moment, so I am living vicariously through your efforts. Keep up the good work and you overalls seem to have lifted a notch in presentability!
As ever, Gav, the content and production quality of the Foreman and Wilms videos are superb! And the humor is inspired! 👍👍 Thoroughly enjoyed the cameo appearance by Summer at 13:38. When you've completed the restoration of your 1957 series 1, you could become owner/operator of Foreman's Fantastic Fabrications, creating innovative bits and bobs that that are otherwise nonexistent, to be employed by desperate restorers the world over.
Moving along just great - ingenuity at the order of the day, just love it !! Correcting Solihull engineers as you race for the finish line ! Stay smart and go slow. Best for now
4:58 I do like the SFSS*. Something that all good "Bushies" have in their ready~at~hand toolbox, and regularly utilize. That's why they never go rusty. Oh, the SFSS* = "Special Foot Support Stand". 😇
All limbs and extremities should be used to their fullest potential I say. It pays to stay nimble. Unfortunately it's cold over here at present so my feet and toes have been locked up in boots and haven't been much help. Once the weather warms they shall be out of hibernation and back in full use.
Thingymajig is the correct terminology, and where does one learn bracketery expertise is there a course one can take to achieve such greatness. Using the drill press without a hard stop reminded me of my first job, where i made that mistake and was thrown off the shop floor by the old timer. OHS was coming in way back then. The rover is coming along magnificently.
Only the most up to date terminology gets used in my dirty little workshop, along with the most precise measurements right down to the squillianth of an inch.
The thermostatic switch for the fan should be installed in the input to the radiator, which is the top pipe. Also the Phenolic Block i's there to insulate the carburetor from the heat of the engine block, and considering how easily modern ethanol gas vaporises when it gets hot, removing it and having the fan switch in the bottom pipe, could have caused much future heart ache. Hope this info helps😀
My hopes were indeed to install the switch in that top pipe but there wasn't the space, or at least it would be tight. This one has variable settings so I set it down low to offset the cooler water flowing out through the bottom hose. Can't say if I'm correct in my thinking but I'm sure I'll find out soon enough.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures I recently installed an electric fan on my old 3.5 Range Rover Classic and found it worked best with a termp switch rated at 95 C in the top pipe. As long as yours goes down to at least 85 C, which is when the thermostat opens, I would have thought that with a bit of adjustment it should work fine. I've been following this project since the beginning and loving the videos, especially the one with the "Turdis". Good luck with everything and keep up the great work.
The Turdus is one of my favorite inventions though it was Wilms who came up with the name, whilst being so obvious I wouldn't have thought of it. It was brilliance on her behalf. My fan thermostat goes down to 70 C but I have it set a little higher than that. This conversation has convinced me to re-set the thing to low and leave it there.
Enjoying watching the progress you're making with the landy. As for the problem you're having with the air intake: there was a pipe with a tighter bend made for the solex carbs around 1967-69 ish 2.25 petrol, that should do the trick.. I believe the pipe you have is from the Zenith type carb.
20:45 Oh No!!!!. The ektivists and poli tishins don't need any help in this regard back ear. But you purity is gladly still in takt. No chance of that slippin, eh Summer?. 🙃😊
Make a lot captive nuts and bolt plates myself, personally I tend to use Defender/Discovery 1 radiators these days, less expensive and more readily available, plus you've got an in built oil cooler already. Love your approach dude, keep it up. Take care
I didn't even consider a Disco radiator and I've got one sitting outside in my daily driver that I could've measured up. Possibly an option for the future.
Congratulations with your show. As a Land Rover enthousiast and owner of a 1964 Series2a 88 I stumbled on your channel a few days ago. I’ve binge watched all 33 episodes. Your show should reach a much larger audience ! Your show has it all : very good content, the struggle is real, I love your humor, the camera angles are excellent, the editing is top and the animations are amazing. I can’t wait to hear that motor run. Thanks Johan (Belgium) PS you fixed the tube of the throttle cable to the chassis with a bracket laying on the floor and the cable to the carburetor, when the motor vibrates, the throttle will move, making the motor vibrating even more…
Greetings there Johan. Your comment on the throttle cable is one of intrigue I considered not knowing if I'd be wrong or right. The mechanical linkages I think must be mounted off the engine though I have little physical reference to go on, so I figured I'd try mounting the cable the same. I can't say too much on a public platform to avoid spoilers, but on the sly I haven't yet experienced any problems...As yet.
I decided to subscribe because of the purity of your heritage. I will have to watch from the beginning now, dammit. (I also have a terrible series 111 hybrid mess of a truck containing 12 beercans)
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures My wife frowned upon the cans. I had to explain that there were 13 of them in there but accumulated over several months. The contents of said cans has passed through me long ago, in moments of quiet contemplation. Sometimes, I just lean on the fender and stare at the trouble I am in.
I still have it on hand and will be watching the electric fans efficiency closely. If I have any doubts it will be put in. It gets hot here in the Summer so that will be a good test.
Throttle linkage. I worry about your cable being too close to the exhaust and too long. I’d suggest routing it over the top of the engine, and using the outer sleeve to operate the lever on the carb, with the inner cable fixed to a bracket on the manifold. The cable can thus be much shorter (less friction) and out of heat harm’s way. Just an idea, ignore it if there’s no problem. Another great episode! PS: if you want an original oil bath air cleaner I’m happy to track one down for you here in Blighty, although the postage would be fearsome…
Thanks Will. My air box turned up and is installed as you'll see in the following episode. It's light and small and should do the job. A lot of experimenting and testing to be done once it's running. Until then most questions about my inventions can't be answered. There is a lot of friction in the cable though it was a cheap Amazon purchase. I'm looking at a more expensive one though it probably won't be much better. I'll keep an eye on the thing in regards to heat. I'm a little concerned myself even though a heat shield is in place.
Looking good so far. What drove the choice of using the thermo fan in push rather than pull? If you have the space I would recommend using it to pull the air through the rad as it will get much better cooling. Even better would be a simple shroud to pull ait through the whole core. I battled over heating in one of my land rovers that only used thermo fans and it came down to having it mount on the front. Though your location and usage may not have the same heat issues as Qld Aus.
Much of what I'm doing is experimental, when I got the truck it had an electric fan in front and there was plenty of space there for it. That position also allows the re-installment of a mechanical fan if I choose to. Not sure if push or pull would make a difference to air flow but I'm sure I'll find out soon enough.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures as long as the is sealed to the rad or with a shroud, the fan will draw air through as it creates low pressure in the fins. If pushing it creates high pressure on the fins and is more likely to partly cavitate, especially if it isn't sealed up to the rad fins.
Greetings Nathan. I've been attempting some research on what you say and as yet don't know what to make of it. It's still cold over here but it does get hot and that will be the real test. I shall monitor the situation closely, there are so many little technicalities in motor vehicles and I'm still a rookie. Thanks for the heads up on what might be an issue to watch out for.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures if I recall correctly I learned of the push pull difference about 10 years ago from Donaldson (high quality thermo fan manufacturers) thermo fan website technical documentation.
Excellent work! The rad fan looks nice. Fan relay is a good idea. Is the fan high/low speed? I’m using the same throttle cable on my Mercruiser swap. Can’t wait for the next installment.
Greetings Conrad. Not sure what the fan speed is classified as. I'm looking forward to see how you go with the throttle cable. Mines working but unsure how time and use will affect it. If you need tips there's a good land rover channel run by a fella named Cory Anderson. You might have heard of him.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures I agree, we shall see if the mystery cable last for awhile. I have seen that channel for Land Rover silliness. He’s a real goof!! Ha ha!!
I had to do a google search to know of what you speak. I shall undertake experiments. I generally like to make life hard for myself for reasons unknown and good ideas take a while to sink in.
This is probably 3 months too late, I think the throttle cable outer should be fixed to the engine as any movement between body and engine will operate the throttle. This is one of the best restoration series I've watched be a shame when it ends👍
I wondered that myself when I installed that bracket. As of yet things seem to be working and if it changes I'll concoct another plan. Glad you like the show.
the phenolic block thermally insulates the carb from the motor so the fuel doesn't boil off when you're parked and cause vapour lock. You can get away without one if you have an electric fuel pump. I'm surprised there was so little clearance between the carb and the bonnet, my 1957 S1 is running a S3 motor and weber carb and there's plenty of room for an old holden air cleaner up there.
I've seen pictures of such things and my friends over at Seriously Series had an air cleaner as such installed. I'm curious what the difference is. I'm happy with the solution I eventually arrived at but it took a lot of brain work to figure it out. I'm much better at heavy lifting and find it less exhausting.
See, these little tips arrive too late.. I shall experiment however on the next project whatever that shall be. We all start out a little brutish and heavy handed, finesse takes practice.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned , that coolant sensor definitely needs to be in top hose , bottom hose is cold side and will not turn fans on until the engine is in fire or the temperature of the suns anus after a bad curry 🤣 and need an inch clearance above air filter to account for engine rocking ….. ask me how I know !
Greetings Bad Stimpy. The fan controller has an adjustable setting between 70 -120 Celsius, I have it set at the lowest in the hope it offsets the incoming water temp. There wasn't room for it in the top hose sadly. I'm currently trouble shooting gauge issues and it's cold over here so until both those conditions change I won't know how effective my electric 'fan plan' will be. I'm keeping my mechanical fan handy for re-installation if needed.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The Fabricators Fabricator , excitement is through the roof ! This is a flamin great series 👍
Glad you like them! Apologies for late reply.
Never get tired of the humour! Your editing skills are getting good Mr Foreman. You must have had some time on your hands over your winter. Well done. Looking forward to the first start.
The first start will be happening soon, wrapping up some final work on 'Secrets of Sorcery' and then there shall be no excuses.
Getting good? LOL the editing on ths channel has been superb as long as I can reemember.
Elegant solution to your air intake problem. Excellent fabrication skills and look forward to your next episode.
I'm quite proud of my little air intake atrocity, I think it will work well.
Great fun!
👍
The things we do. Magnificent. I only wish I could find the ideal braket just laying around! Entertaining as always.
Cheers Phil
Thanks Phil, like I said when those handy brackets just turn up there's a run of luck happening and a few lottery tickets should be purchased. One never knows!
Definitely love watching you and your humour
Thanks, the flock of birds out by the workshop don't mind some of my gags but they can be quite critical if my timing is off.
You're a clever fella in many, diverse ways. Thank you once again for sharing your work and innovation with us. It's a terrific channel that you have created. We only see a tiny fraction of all the work involved. Please know that all of it is appreciated, even if unseen. Bravo mate, Bravo!
Thanks 1unsung. Glad you like the films. All the behind the scenes stuff is just the arduous not so exciting bits with a few crappy jokes thrown in.
I always enjoy, indeed look forward to your videos but watching this episode reminded me of my throttle linkage head scratching. I have a 3 litre ford V6 in my series one and the weber linkage on the carb is via cable but the carb throttle lever is only 1” long.
Using a 2” long lever on the pedal end resulted in the throttle either being on or off. This frightened a lot of people especially in traffic not least me. My solution was a snail cam for the cable to roll around allowing a large pedal travel for a small amount of throttle initially and when the pedal was on full so was the throttle. Thanks Gavin for keeping us entertained.
The Disco has cams on the throttle body for the accelerator cable. I'll see how my first invention goes and consider a work around if it's no good. Tricky problem to solve.
Brilliant. Thank You!
Youtooobers take note this is how ya do it ,thanks mate bloody good to watch😊
You're most welcome. Cheers.
Always a pleasure to see your videos. Thanks mate.
Baffled and flumoxed .. oh the mechanical and linguistical enrichments you get from these series .. - enjoying this thoroughly - greetings from Flanders
Baffled and flummoxed is a regular state of affairs for me yet somehow I manage. Where is Flanders? A quick google showed a number of options.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures : Flanders is the Flemish speaking part of Belgium. During the First World War, many young Australians died there on the battlefield and in the trenches. Really worth a visit..
For those who are swapping the original Solex PBI 32 to the more recent Weber 34 ICH, you need only to modify the throttle lever by some cut & welding and modify the angle of that lever, and reduce the height of the 90 degrees manifold/carburettor adaptor spacer, and remove the bakelite spacer. The Weber carburettor seems to have a better efficiency and slight lower fuel consumption compared to the original Solex. As you many times said, there are the "purists" vs the "pragmatists". That brawl is a never ending one. If you have an old Solex, but in desperate condition, keep it safe somewhere, one day there will be a genius who will create a pretty good overhaul kit to repair them. Cause the new Solex copy .... stinks. And finally, thank you Mr Foreman for this wonderful series. Go ahead, poor some fuel and life in this engine, and off you go to give us some thrill.
Love your work mate you are an inspiration 👍👍👍
Thanks Mark!
Another very entertaining video and admire the design / fabrication of the inlet adapter. Getting close your gonna have to find something else to do so we have more to look forward too.
I'm seeing me Wilms and Krikkit becoming crusty old sea dogs one day. We're having marital disputes over the size of the dream vessel if the ideas should ever come to pass. These plans may take a while to come to fruition but the Land Rovers will no doubt keep me occupied in the meantime.
Nealy there Mr Foreman and looking very nice as well. Thanks for the video.
Cheers Deane.
Loving the build mate ,,
Thanks John!
Excellent!!
keep going
Your welding is coming along nicely, it's a pity about your jokes! Great series. Cheers
The gags can definitely use some work. It's probably a good thing most of them end up on the cutting room floor.
There were some certainly vexing puzzles to be solved there. Loved the solution for the air filter. I wish I knew you had that problem to solve. I could have designed something for you, and 3D printed it. I've created similar one off custom parts for myself and friends for our vehicles. Looking forward to the next episode.
3D printing is a good idea. I mapped my creation out on paper and built it in a 3D program to see how it might fit together and of course used the model in the film. I remembered thinking "I wish it was that easy" and with the printers nowadays it probably is.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures It is that easy (with a bit of practice), and 3D printers are getting cheaper all the time.
Looking good.
Brilliant fabricating!
Thanks Rich.
Continue to love your animations, Gavin.
I get a little carried away at times. But they are fun. I built a monster for 'Beast Beneath the Bonnet' title sequence but kept messing up it's arm controls and it was taking too long. He's scraped for now but I'll find a use for him I'm sure.
LOL always fun to watch. Spent my morning re-wiring the Coaster trailer in anticipation of the truimphant return of its magnificent tow vehicle :) The Coaster is 36 years old and the trailer is 40 so not quite a venerable as the Landy.
That Coaster is awesome and it's age only adds to the charm. I think I may have told you already they were a popular tour vehicle in the N.T so I spend 6 or so years driving them. They are really good vehicles.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventuresOurs does cause the odd (expensive) headache but when it works it is great to tour in. Looking forward to seeing it without all the crumpled metal on the passenger side :)
Great work, and given me ideas for my throttle on Winston (which has the melange of rods, clips, springs and other random Land Rover hardware....) 👍
I was too fearful to try and replicate the original linkage setup as my bulkhead was modified for the V8 it might've added additional challenges. I'd like to see a RHD setup, the only other S1 I've seen was Andy's truck featured in the film. What he managed to achieve was impressive.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures I think my 2a is very different for an S1, but if you want, I'll take some pics this weekend and ping them over (I have your email from when you gave me advice on the stuck reverse-gear issue)
I will accept that offer to see how it all fits together, references like that are quite handy. Thanks.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures check your inbox - I've sent the pics + a link to a quick video.
You were doing so great until I saw you considering the minuscule air filter, No No No, my heart sank, but you redeemed yourself with the final result - alls right with the world again. I find these videos very encouraging. If I was smart enough, I would burn them onto a CD and keep them for posterity, or at least until I am in the nursing home with time to watch them again. Work and Life are keeping me from tinkering in the garage at the moment, so I am living vicariously through your efforts. Keep up the good work and you overalls seem to have lifted a notch in presentability!
As ever, Gav, the content and production quality of the Foreman and Wilms videos are superb! And the humor is inspired! 👍👍 Thoroughly enjoyed the cameo appearance by Summer at 13:38. When you've completed the restoration of your 1957 series 1, you could become owner/operator of Foreman's Fantastic Fabrications, creating innovative bits and bobs that that are otherwise nonexistent, to be employed by desperate restorers the world over.
Thanks Noah. Not sure if my fabricating inventions would ever gain much traction. Bit like our UA-cam channel.
👍loving this
Thanks John!
Moving along just great - ingenuity at the order of the day, just love it !! Correcting Solihull engineers as you race for the finish line ! Stay smart and go slow. Best for now
Thanks Henry. I'm restraining myself from celebrating too early on my inventions until they've passed rigorous testing.
It just keeps getting better mate. 👍🏻🤣🙏🦘
It's going to be running soon. I feel it in my bones.
4:58 I do like the SFSS*. Something that all good "Bushies" have in their ready~at~hand toolbox, and regularly utilize. That's why they never go rusty.
Oh, the SFSS* = "Special Foot Support Stand".
😇
All limbs and extremities should be used to their fullest potential I say. It pays to stay nimble. Unfortunately it's cold over here at present so my feet and toes have been locked up in boots and haven't been much help. Once the weather warms they shall be out of hibernation and back in full use.
Brilliant, again
Looking good Gav!
Thanks Roger!
Thingymajig is the correct terminology, and where does one learn bracketery expertise is there a course one can take to achieve such greatness. Using the drill press without a hard stop reminded me of my first job, where i made that mistake and was thrown off the shop floor by the old timer. OHS was coming in way back then. The rover is coming along magnificently.
Only the most up to date terminology gets used in my dirty little workshop, along with the most precise measurements right down to the squillianth of an inch.
The thermostatic switch for the fan should be installed in the input to the radiator, which is the top pipe. Also the Phenolic Block i's there to insulate the carburetor from the heat of the engine block, and considering how easily modern ethanol gas vaporises when it gets hot, removing it and having the fan switch in the bottom pipe, could have caused much future heart ache. Hope this info helps😀
My hopes were indeed to install the switch in that top pipe but there wasn't the space, or at least it would be tight. This one has variable settings so I set it down low to offset the cooler water flowing out through the bottom hose. Can't say if I'm correct in my thinking but I'm sure I'll find out soon enough.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures I recently installed an electric fan on my old 3.5 Range Rover Classic and found it worked best with a termp switch rated at 95 C in the top pipe. As long as yours goes down to at least 85 C, which is when the thermostat opens, I would have thought that with a bit of adjustment it should work fine.
I've been following this project since the beginning and loving the videos, especially the one with the "Turdis". Good luck with everything and keep up the great work.
The Turdus is one of my favorite inventions though it was Wilms who came up with the name, whilst being so obvious I wouldn't have thought of it. It was brilliance on her behalf. My fan thermostat goes down to 70 C but I have it set a little higher than that. This conversation has convinced me to re-set the thing to low and leave it there.
Enjoying watching the progress you're making with the landy.
As for the problem you're having with the air intake: there was a pipe with a tighter bend made for the solex carbs around 1967-69 ish 2.25 petrol, that should do the trick.. I believe the pipe you have is from the Zenith type carb.
Would the pipe you mention still fit with the Phenolic block in place? At least in my application space was very tight.
20:45 Oh No!!!!.
The ektivists and poli tishins don't need any help in this regard back ear. But you purity is gladly still in takt. No chance of that slippin, eh Summer?. 🙃😊
Summers secure in the fact I'm too ugly to be un-pure.
Make a lot captive nuts and bolt plates myself, personally I tend to use Defender/Discovery 1 radiators these days, less expensive and more readily available, plus you've got an in built oil cooler already. Love your approach dude, keep it up. Take care
I didn't even consider a Disco radiator and I've got one sitting outside in my daily driver that I could've measured up. Possibly an option for the future.
What a champski!!
Loving it
Just love your humour and technical prowess. You will have to get something else to work on soon!
I've dreams and aspirations of owning a boat one day and becoming a crusty sea dog. I'm sure I'll find something to keep me busy.
Congratulations with your show. As a Land Rover enthousiast and owner of a 1964 Series2a 88 I stumbled on your channel a few days ago. I’ve binge watched all 33 episodes. Your show should reach a much larger audience ! Your show has it all : very good content, the struggle is real, I love your humor, the camera angles are excellent, the editing is top and the animations are amazing. I can’t wait to hear that motor run. Thanks Johan (Belgium)
PS you fixed the tube of the throttle cable to the chassis with a bracket laying on the floor and the cable to the carburetor, when the motor vibrates, the throttle will move, making the motor vibrating even more…
Greetings there Johan. Your comment on the throttle cable is one of intrigue I considered not knowing if I'd be wrong or right. The mechanical linkages I think must be mounted off the engine though I have little physical reference to go on, so I figured I'd try mounting the cable the same. I can't say too much on a public platform to avoid spoilers, but on the sly I haven't yet experienced any problems...As yet.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures so you spoiled it : the Land Rover is already moving under it's own power !!! I wish you lots of happy motorring.
I decided to subscribe because of the purity of your heritage. I will have to watch from the beginning now, dammit. (I also have a terrible series 111 hybrid mess of a truck containing 12 beercans)
Do the beer cans have anything in them? It would increase the value.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures My wife frowned upon the cans. I had to explain that there were 13 of them in there but accumulated over several months. The contents of said cans has passed through me long ago, in moments of quiet contemplation. Sometimes, I just lean on the fender and stare at the trouble I am in.
11:36 🤣my new favorite joke about the "US customary measurement systems" or "imperial system" - "a full half an inch" 🤣🤣🤣
A full half an inch is neither a sqillianth more of less. To achieve such accuracy it's 'gotta' be right on the button.
That engineering was very impressive
Thanks LandySmurf.
Brackets! Imagine that
Foreman of the apocalypse 🛠😄
I hope not. I'm trying very hard to avoid apocalypses. I suspect they're not as much fun as the movies make out.
Keep the engine driven fan they move more air and it's always working
I still have it on hand and will be watching the electric fans efficiency closely. If I have any doubts it will be put in. It gets hot here in the Summer so that will be a good test.
Throttle linkage. I worry about your cable being too close to the exhaust and too long. I’d suggest routing it over the top of the engine, and using the outer sleeve to operate the lever on the carb, with the inner cable fixed to a bracket on the manifold. The cable can thus be much shorter (less friction) and out of heat harm’s way. Just an idea, ignore it if there’s no problem. Another great episode! PS: if you want an original oil bath air cleaner I’m happy to track one down for you here in Blighty, although the postage would be fearsome…
Thanks Will. My air box turned up and is installed as you'll see in the following episode. It's light and small and should do the job. A lot of experimenting and testing to be done once it's running. Until then most questions about my inventions can't be answered. There is a lot of friction in the cable though it was a cheap Amazon purchase. I'm looking at a more expensive one though it probably won't be much better. I'll keep an eye on the thing in regards to heat. I'm a little concerned myself even though a heat shield is in place.
IIRC the phenolic block is a thermal insulator to stop heat getting into the carb and vaporzing the fuel in the bowl.
Looking good so far. What drove the choice of using the thermo fan in push rather than pull? If you have the space I would recommend using it to pull the air through the rad as it will get much better cooling. Even better would be a simple shroud to pull ait through the whole core. I battled over heating in one of my land rovers that only used thermo fans and it came down to having it mount on the front. Though your location and usage may not have the same heat issues as Qld Aus.
Much of what I'm doing is experimental, when I got the truck it had an electric fan in front and there was plenty of space there for it. That position also allows the re-installment of a mechanical fan if I choose to. Not sure if push or pull would make a difference to air flow but I'm sure I'll find out soon enough.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures as long as the is sealed to the rad or with a shroud, the fan will draw air through as it creates low pressure in the fins. If pushing it creates high pressure on the fins and is more likely to partly cavitate, especially if it isn't sealed up to the rad fins.
Greetings Nathan. I've been attempting some research on what you say and as yet don't know what to make of it. It's still cold over here but it does get hot and that will be the real test. I shall monitor the situation closely, there are so many little technicalities in motor vehicles and I'm still a rookie. Thanks for the heads up on what might be an issue to watch out for.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures if I recall correctly I learned of the push pull difference about 10 years ago from Donaldson (high quality thermo fan manufacturers) thermo fan website technical documentation.
Excellent work! The rad fan looks nice. Fan relay is a good idea. Is the fan high/low speed? I’m using the same throttle cable on my Mercruiser swap. Can’t wait for the next installment.
Greetings Conrad. Not sure what the fan speed is classified as. I'm looking forward to see how you go with the throttle cable. Mines working but unsure how time and use will affect it. If you need tips there's a good land rover channel run by a fella named Cory Anderson. You might have heard of him.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures I agree, we shall see if the mystery cable last for awhile. I have seen that channel for Land Rover silliness. He’s a real goof!! Ha ha!!
The blockunder carby is important in hot weather trying to stop heat transfer between materials
I suspected it must have had a purpose. Gladly it's still there.
RIVNUTS BROTHER, GET SOME RIVNUTS, IT'LL CHANGE YOUR WHOLE LIFE!
I had to do a google search to know of what you speak. I shall undertake experiments. I generally like to make life hard for myself for reasons unknown and good ideas take a while to sink in.
No issues mate. We build a lot of Land Rover defenders in my shop. And rivnuts save us loads of time, sadness and sorrow. Great build.
This is probably 3 months too late, I think the throttle cable outer should be fixed to the engine as any movement between body and engine will operate the throttle. This is one of the best restoration series I've watched be a shame when it ends👍
I wondered that myself when I installed that bracket. As of yet things seem to be working and if it changes I'll concoct another plan. Glad you like the show.
How many litres to the gallon....
By my reckonin' a mouthful less than 4 liters or possible a hefty gulp.
Finding the brackets was a good part, what are the odds
It's proof miracles can happen Joseph! How else could it possibly be explained?
Phenolic block prob blocks heat from engine.. heat stop
Heat insulator
Penetrene the accelerator cable
Drink some emu export
The old bush chook. I don't think they sell such a divine liquid over here.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures haha
A carton of wife basher please
the phenolic block thermally insulates the carb from the motor so the fuel doesn't boil off when you're parked and cause vapour lock. You can get away without one if you have an electric fuel pump. I'm surprised there was so little clearance between the carb and the bonnet, my 1957 S1 is running a S3 motor and weber carb and there's plenty of room for an old holden air cleaner up there.
I've seen pictures of such things and my friends over at Seriously Series had an air cleaner as such installed. I'm curious what the difference is. I'm happy with the solution I eventually arrived at but it took a lot of brain work to figure it out. I'm much better at heavy lifting and find it less exhausting.
13:38 Your first idea cooked up in your imagination had strings attached. Obviously such strings should undone and discarded.
Wilms would've given me a swift kick in the backside, I felt it prudent to return the thought still in it's packaging.
Gavin stop torturing your welds and surrounding metal with grinding wheels and discover welds massaged into a thing of beauty with flapper discs. 😉
See, these little tips arrive too late.. I shall experiment however on the next project whatever that shall be. We all start out a little brutish and heavy handed, finesse takes practice.
Sorry if I’ve missed it and it’s already in the comments - that phenolic block is supposed to reduce heat transfer into the carburettor.
I new it had a purpose. The name of the thing is pretty cool. I'm glad I kept it just for that.
Was browsing youtube now and saw your video low and behold i was unsubscribed i re subscribed how did that happen?
We're a super secret channel so maybe UA-cam quietly un-clicked the button for you. Shifty buggers.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned , that coolant sensor definitely needs to be in top hose , bottom hose is cold side and will not turn fans on until the engine is in fire or the temperature of the suns anus after a bad curry 🤣 and need an inch clearance above air filter to account for engine rocking ….. ask me how I know !
Greetings Bad Stimpy. The fan controller has an adjustable setting between 70 -120 Celsius, I have it set at the lowest in the hope it offsets the incoming water temp. There wasn't room for it in the top hose sadly. I'm currently trouble shooting gauge issues and it's cold over here so until both those conditions change I won't know how effective my electric 'fan plan' will be. I'm keeping my mechanical fan handy for re-installation if needed.
Less restoration, more bitzer butchery.
Bodging at it’s finest.